!l 


E  II- 


THE  COMPLETE 
GARDEN 


BOOKS  BY  ALBERT  D.  TAYLOR 

PARTIAL  LIST  OF  PLANTS  AVAILABLE  FOR  VARIOUS 
USES  IN  GENERAL  LANDSCAPE  PLANTING 

STREET  TREES:  THEIR  CARE  AND  PRESERVATION 
COMPLETE  GARDEN,  THE 


PLATE  I.  The  scarlet  thorns  planted  on  both  sides  of  the  wall  on  either 
side  of  the  gate  make  an  excellent  frame  for  this  architectural  detail  at  the 
garden  entrance.  (See  Plate  XXIV,  page  158) 


THE  COMPLETE 
GARDEN 


BY 

ALBERT  D.TAYLOR,  M.S. A. 

Fellow  American  Society  of  Landscape  Architects 

Non-resident  Professor  Landscape  Architecture 
in  Ohio  State  University 

ASSISTED  BY 

GORDON  D.  COOPER,  B.S.A. 

Member  American  Society  of  Landscape  Architects 


ILLUSTRATED   WITH   FIFTY   FULL   PAGE 

CUTS,   FOUR  LINE  CHARTS,  AND 

NINE  COLOURED  PLATES 


GARDEN   CITY,  N.  Y.,  AND  TORONTO 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 
1921 


MAIM 


DEFf. 


COPYRIGHT,  1921,  BY 
DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED,  INCLUDING  THAT  OF  TRANSLATION 
INTO  FOREIGN  LANGUAGES,  INCLUDING  THE  SCANDINAVIAN 

PRINTED  AT  GABDEN  CTTY,  N.  Y.;  U.  S.  A. 


PREFACE 

REASONS  FOR  THIS  BOOK.  The  author  has  for  some  time  felt  that 
there  was  needed  in  the  landscape  field,  especially  by  the  amateur 
gardener,  a  book  of  this  type.  He  has  believed  that  such  a  book  would 
be  of  value  to  everyone  who  is  interested  in  the  important  work  of 
landscape  plantings,  not  only  to  the  amateur  but  to  the  expert  gar- 
dener and  to  the  property  owner  who  has  made  an  exhaustive  study  of 
plant  uses  and  plant  adaptations. 

One  of  the  reasons  for  the  publication  of  these  planting  lists  for  differ- 
ent purposes  is  that  it  provides  a  permanent  record  for  future  reference. 
There  is  no  good  reason  why  a  landscape  architect  thoroughly  familiar, 
as  a  result  of  years  of  experience,  study,  and  observation,  with  the  use  of 
plants  should  devote  his  time  and  thought  to  the  compilation  of  lists 
of  plants  for  different  purposes,  such  as  wild  gardens,  spring  gardens, 
rock  gardens,  and  bog  gardens  in  connection  with  some  specific  problem 
only  to  have  each  list  of  material  cease  to  exist  for  the  use  of  others,  as 
soon  as  the  work  in  question  is  completed.  Plant  lists  compiled  by 
capable  landscape  architects  are  too  frequently  used  only  for  one 
problem,  thus  requiring  the  next  man  who  starts  to  work  upon  a 
similar  problem  to  begin  his  study,  not  where  the  other  man  left  off, 
but  at  the  same  point  where  the  other  man  began,  duplicating  work  and 
wasting  much  time  and  energy.  It  is  not  meant  to  imply  that  all 
ornamental  plants  can  be  confined  within  definite  standardized  lists 
from  which  those  who  attempt  to  select  plants  for  a  specific  purpose 
must  choose.  It  is  the  author's  sincere  feeling  that  lists  of  plants 
compiled  as  the  result  of  the  different  studies  and  investigations  con- 
tinually being  made,  in  connection  with  the  landscape  problems  of 
many  clients,  may  be  accepted  as  a  starting  point  or  a  reference  beyond 
which  a  planter  is  at  full  liberty  to  go  when  he  wishes  to  use  species  and 
varieties  which  are  unusual  and  rare,  or  whenever  the  conditions  of  his 
specific  problem  require  it. 

The  responsibility  for  the  original  idea  conceived  as  a  basis  for  the 
development  of  this  book  may  be  traced  to  the  author's  experience  in 
classroom  work  and  in  teaching.  In  this  field  of  work,  from  a  peda- 


409660 


vi  PREFACE 

gogical  standpoint,  he  has  felt  the  need  of  a  systematic  classification, 
based  upon  the  association  of  ideas  which  would  aid  in  remembering 
and  grouping  plants.  Through  learning  to  know  plants  by  their 
group  associations  a  comprehensive  knowledge  of  them  may  be  gath- 
ered and  retained  with  little  effort.  One  of  the  easiest  ways  of  memo- 
rizing is  through  the  association  of  ideas.  This  is  the  fundamental 
principle  upon  which  the  information  in  the  various  groups  is  based. 
The  same  condition  has  been  found  in  office  work.  Men  with  the 
greatest  range  of  knowledge  covering  the  identification  of  plants  and 
the  botanical  classification  of  plants  have  found  a  smaller  book  of 
this  kind  indispensable  as  a  ready  reminder  of  the  possibilities  of  plant 
uses,  when  working  out  planting  designs. 

The  first  abridged  edition  of  this  book  was  published  in  1916, 
primarily  for  the  use  of  the  author  and  a  few  of  his  friends  in  pro- 
fessional work.  It  was  largely  local  in  character.  It  has  met  with 
such  a  favourable  reception,  however,  and  so  many  requests  have  been 
received  asking  that  a  book  of  this  kind  be  continued,  and  that  the  field 
be  covered  by  comprehensive  information,  that  this  revised  edition  is 
the  result. 

OBJECT  or  THIS  BOOK.  It  is  hoped  that  this  book  will  serve  as  a 
ready  reference  to  those  who  have  no  authoritative  source  of  informa- 
tion, and  whose  limited  opportunity  and  limited  time  for  observation 
have  not  enabled  them  to  become  familiar  with  a  wide  range  of  materials, 
and  to  keep  familiar  with  it.  This  information  is  not  compiled  for  the 
purpose  of  taking  the  place  of  the  services  of  a  professional  landscape 
architect,  where  the  problem  is  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  justify  his 
employment.  This  book  will  assist  those  who,  having  no  available 
sources  of  reliable  information  at  hand,  -are  prone  to  accept  the  advice 
of  "landscape  quacks"  and  self-styled  landscape  architects  with  little 
training. 

The  question  is  often  asked,  "What  plants  can  I  use  for  a  specific 
purpose?"  This  is  asked  by  both  professional  landscape  architects 
and  by  owners  of  properties.  This  book  will  place  at  the  disposal  of 
such  persons  a  list  of  plants  from  which  species  and  varieties  may  be 
selected  advisedly. 

The  discussion  does  not  by  any  means  represent  a  complete  study 
of  this  subject.  It  will  take  years  of  checking,  verification,  and 
criticism,  before  a  compact  compilation  of  this  material  can  be  put  into 


PREFACE  vii 

final  shape  which  will  be  valuable  as  a  reference  in  all  sections  of  the 
country,  where  plants  other  than  tropical  are  used  for  landscape  effects. 
The  correct  selection  of  plants  for  various  purposes  in  landscape  work 
is  but  a  part  of  the  success  of  landscape  plantings.  One  should  know 
not  only  the  correct  use  of  plants  as  indicated  in  these  lists,  but  their 
landscape  value  from  the  standpoint  of  their  adaptation  to  design  and 
composition,  as  well  as  how  to  plant  and  to  maintain  them.  For  those 
unfamiliar  with  plant  materials  the  information  in  this  book  should  be 
supplemented  with  additional  information  which  may  be  easily 
procured  from  descriptions  in  nursery  catalogues,  encyclopedias,  and 
garden  books. 

THE  ESSENTIAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  BOOK.  The  main  idea  behind 
this  method  of  compiling  information  for  the  use  of  those  interested  in 
landscape  plantings  is  that  of  providing  a  compact  reference  manual 
from  which  fundamental  information  can  be  easily  obtained.  In 
reality  it  is  more  in  the  form  of  a  "landscape  dictionary."  The 
chapters  which  have  been  introduced  into  this  volume  are  a  series  of 
summarized  fundamental  principles  with  reference  to  the  respective 
chapter  headings,  and  they  are  not  in  the  form  of  many  magazine 
articles,  so  compiled  as  to  be  interesting  to  many  persons  who  really 
read  the  articles,  not  always  because  of  the  facts  in  them,  but  because 
of  the  camouflaged  outlines. 

THE  SYSTEM  OF  NOMENCLATURE.  In  the  compilation  of  the  plant 
lists,  and  generally  throughout  the  text  of  the  book,  an  earnest  effort 
has  been  made  to  conform  to  the  recommendations  of  the  American 
Joint  Committee  on  Horticultural  Nomenclature  as  adopted  and 
published  in  the  1917  official  code  of  standardized  plant  names.  The 
two  new  rulings  of  this  committee  regarding  botanical  names  also  have 
been  adopted.  These  rulings  are  that  all  botanical  names  except 
the  generic  name  shall  begin  with  a  lower  case  letter  and  not  with  a 
capital  letter;  and  second,  that  in  the  case  of  all  specific  names  hereto- 
fore ending  in  a  double  "i"  one  of  these  "i's"  shall  be  dropped.  Thus 
Berberis  Thunbergii  will  become  Berberis  ihunbergi.  Since  this  code 
fails  to  cover  many  horticultural  varieties  of  plants  it  has  sometimes 
seemed  wiser  to  follow  the  nomenclature  of  Bailey's  Standard  Cyclo- 
pedia of  American  Horticulture,  especially  in  the  case  of  garden  forms 
of  plants.  An  effort  has  been  made  to  find  the  most  generally  accepted 


VI 11 


PREFACE 


common  name  for  each  plant;  or,  where  none  was  available,  to  invent  a 
common  name  which  would  be  descriptive  of  the  plant  and  helpful  in 
fixing  its  valuable  characteristics  in  mind. 

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.  For  notes  on  the  behaviour  of  the  newer 
introductions  and  for  valuable  assistance  in  the  checking  of  the  plant 
lists  the  author  is  indebted  to  M.  H.  Horvath,  Landscape  Architect, 
Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  to  Henry  Kohankie,  Nurseryman,  Painesville, 
Ohio,  both  of  whom  have  done  important  work  in  the  introduction 
and  testing  of  many  sorts  of  plants. 

For  many  valuable  observations  on  the  behaviour,  hardiness,  and 
adaptability  of  ornamental  plants  in  their  respective  sections  of  the 
country  the  author  is  indebted  to  Charles  H.  Ramsdell,  Landscape 
Architect,  and  Phelps  Wyman,  Landscape  Architect,  of  Minneapolis, 
Minnesota,  and  to  A.  M.  Hill,  Nurseryman,  of  Dundee,  Illinois. 

In  addition  the  author  is  indebted :  For  lists  of  plants  adapted  to  the 
South  Atlantic  States,  to  Charles  F.  Gillette,  Landscape  Architect, 
Richmond,  Virginia,  and  to  Earle  Draper,  Landscape  Architect, 
Charlotte,  North  Carolina;  and  for  lists  of  plants  adapted  to  the 
Oregon  and  Washington  Coastal  Plain  to  Professor  Arthur  L.  Peck 
of  the  Oregon  State  Agricultural  College  at  Corvallis,  Oregon. 

For  lists  of  plants  and  much  information  concerning  planting  and 
seeding  methods  in  Florida  the  author  is  indebted  to  E.  N.  Reasoner, 
Nurseryman,  Oneco,  Florida;  H.  H.  Hume,  Nurseryman,  Glen  St. 
Mary's,  Florida,  and  C.  L.  Whipp,  Florist,  Jacksonville,  Florida. 

For  much  valuable  information  about  the  preparation  of  lawns  and 
golf  course  fairways  and  greens  in  Florida  the  author  is  indebted  to 
O.  B.  Roche,  Superintendent  of  the  Palm  Beach  Golf  Course,  Palm 
Beach,  Florida,  and  to  J.  R.  Van  Kleek,  Sebring,  Florida. 

For  numerous  practical  suggestions  covering  landscape  uses  and 
notes  on  the  propagation  and  maintenance  of  all  sorts  of  ornamental 
plants  the  writer  thanks  George  Jacques,  Superintendent  of  "Gwinn," 
Bratenahl  Village,  Ohio;  J.  R.  Brydon,  Superintendent  of  "Glen 
Allen,"  Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  E.  0.  Orpet,  formerly  Superintendent  at 
"Walden,"  Lake  Forest,  Illinois. 

For  unselfish  devotion  to  the  oftentimes  uninteresting  work  of  copy 
reading,  checking,  and  indexing,  without  which  this  work  would  never 
have  been  completed,  much  credit  is  due  to  the  following  members  of  the 
author's  office  staff:  Gordon  D.  Cooper,  W.  Hoxie  Hillary,  Lucie  L. 


PREFACE  ix 

French,  Eleanor  Hills  Christie,  J.  R.  Van  Kleek,  E.  H.  Trout,  Frank  B. 
Meyer,  and  Anne  C.  Thompson. 

For  many  of  the  illustrations  in  this  book  the  author  is  indebted  to 
the  following  persons: 

Mattie  Edwards  Hewitt  for  plates  Nos.  12,  21,  26,  44,  and  48; 

The  D.  Hill  Nursery  Company  for  plate  No.  17; 

Mary  E.  Eaton  for  plates  Nos.  31,  34,  35,  36,  38,  39,  46,  and  49; 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  F.  F.  Prentiss  for  plates  Nos.  n,  20,  47,  52,  53,  and 
60; 

Mr.  W.  G.  Mather  for  plates  Nos.  i,  15,  24,  27,  and  28; 

J.  Horace  McFarland  Company  for  plates  Nos.  18,  22,  23,  30,  32,  37, 
40,  41,  43,  56,  57,  and  58; 

Woodlawn  Cemetery  Association  for  plate  No.  42 ; 

The  Wm.  H.  Moon  Company  for  plate  No.  7; 

Nathan  R.  Graves  Company  for  plate  No.  33; 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  A.  Thomas  for  plate  No.  51; 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  F.  Lang  for  plates  Nos.  45  and  54; 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Reed  for  plate  No.  19. 

FUTURE  COOPERATION  INVITED.  Corrections  and  criticisms  will  be 
always  welcomed  by  the  author,  and  this  volume  will  be  enlarged  and 
corrected  as  conditions  justify. 

ALBERT  D.  TAYLOR. 

Prospect  and  Forty-sixth  Streets? 

Cleveland,  Ohio. 
August  i,  1920. 


CONTENTS 

PREFACE •     •     •     • v 

PART  I 

GENERAL  PLANTING  SUGGESTIONS 

CHAPTER  PAGB 

I.     Introduction 3 

II.     Planting  and  Seeding  Seasons 8 

III.  Pruning 18 

IV.  Planting  and  Transplanting 29 

V.     Lawns 52 

VI.     Bulb  Culture 65 

VII.     Maintenance 73 

VIII.     Winter  Protection  and  Mulching 100 

PART  II 
LISTS  FOR  REFERENCE 

IX.     Evergreens IO9 

A — Most  hardy ;.      •      •      •      •      •  IIJ 

B — Best  adapted  for  use  in  mid-west 112 

C — Not  adapted  for  use  in  mid-west 113 

D — Adapted  to  partial  shade  in  wooded  areas      .      .  113 

E — Low-growing,  formal  types 114 

X.     Street  and  Avenue  Planting US 

A — Trees  which  are  entirely  hardy  under  all  condi- 
tions   Il& 

B— Trees  which  should  be  selected  with  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  conditions  under  which  they  are 

to  be  used 117 

C — Trees  which  should  never  be  used  on  streets.      .  117 

XL     Plants  for  Use  in  Congested  City  Districts  .      .      •      •      •  118 

A— Trees "9 

B— Shrubs 120 

xi 


xii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  VAG9 

XII.     Plants  for  Hedges 121 

A — Barriers 123 

a.  Holding  leaves  during  winter .  123 

b.  Not  holding  leaves  during  winter        .      .      .      .  124 
B — Edgings  for  walks  and  for  garden  borders.      .      .  124 

C — Windbreaks  and  solid  screens 125 

D — Privacy 125 

E — Hedges  for  bleak  exposures 126 

a.  Late  foliage 126 

b.  Close  shearing 126 

c.  Unsheared  low  hedges 126 

d.  Fruiting  hedges 126 

e.  Shady  places 126 

XIII.  Plants  for  Border  Planting 127 

A — Masses  for  refined  lawn  areas 128 

a.  Low-growing  shrubs 128 

b.  Medium-growing  shrubs .      .  129 

c.  Tall-growing  shrubs .  129 

B — Masses    consisting    mostly    of   native    collected 

shrubs 130 

a.  Low-growing  shrubs 130 

b.  Medium-growing  shrubs 130 

c.  Tall-growing  shrubs 131 

XIV.  Accent  and  Specimen  Trees  and  Shrubs 132 

A — Trees 133 

a.  Accent  and  specimen  trees 133 

b.  Columnar  and  pyramidal  trees 134 

B — Shrubs 135 

XV.     Plants  Valuable  for  Use  in  Rock  Gardens,  in  Japanese 

Gardens,  and  in  Wall  Crevices 136 

A — Evergreens 138 

B — Deciduous  trees  and  shrubs .  139 

C — Perennials 139 

XVI.     Plants  for  Heavy,  Formal  Effects 141 

A — Border  planting 144 

B — Topiary  work  and  close  shearing 145 

a.  Evergreen 145 

b.  Deciduous 145 

C — Growing  in  tubs 146 


CONTENTS  xiii 

TIR  PACB 

D — Trees  and  shrubs  for  allees  .      .      .      .      „     .      .  146 

a.  Pleached .•    .      .  146 

b.  Not  pleached  (open  allees)       ......  147 

1.  Deciduous 147 

2.  Evergreen 147 

XVII.     Plants  for  Natural,  Informal  Effects 148 

XVIII.     Low-Growing  Plants  Along  the  Inner  Side  of  Curving 

Roadways  and  at  Entrances     .      .      ....      .      .  150 

A — Evergreen  .      .      . .  .  .   •  ,     .      .      ...      .      .  151 

B — Deciduous        <      .      .      .      .   >  .      .      .      .      .      .  151 

XIX.     Trees  and  Shrubs  for  Different  Flowering  Effects  .      .      .  152 
A — Producing  flowers  in  early  spring  before  leaves 

appear       .      . 154 

B — Producing  flowers    in    early    spring    after   leaves 

appear. 154 

C — Producing  flowers  during  early  summer     .      .      .  155 
D — Producing  flowers  during  late  summer  and  early 

afctumn :  ...  '.. 156 

E — Producing  flowers  in  shades  of  red  and  pink  .      .  156 

a.  Early-flowering  sorts 157 

b.  Late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts  .      .      .  157 
F — Producing  yellow  flowers 157 

a.  Early-flowering  sorts     .      . 157 

b.  Late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts  .      .      .  158 
G — Producing  white  flowers     v  .      .      ,      .   '• ...     .      .  158 

a.  Early-flowering  sorts      .      .      .....      .  158 

b.  Late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts  .      .      .  158 

H — Producing  blue  flowers 159 

I — Continuous  bloom  from  twelve  shrubs  .      .      .      .  159 

XX.     Plants  Valuable  for  the  Characteristics  of  Their  Fruit .      .  160 
A — Producing  fruit  of  peculiarly  interesting  form  or 

size 161 

B — Producing  fruit  valuable  for  its  colour  effects.      .  162 

C — Producing  fruit  valuable  during  the  winter  months  163 

D — Producing  fruit  valuable  for  attracting  birds .      .  164 

a.  Fruiting  in  summer 165 

b.  Holding  fruit  into  the  winter  months       .      .      .  166 

c.  Birds  attracted  by  fruits     .      .      ...      .      .  166 

E — Producing  fruit  which  attracts  birds  away  from 

other  fruits 167 

F — Producing  fruit  which  often  makes  the  plant  unde- 
sirable in  landscape  planting 167 


xiv  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XXI.     Trees  and  Shrubs  Bearing  Coloured  Twigs  .      .     .    -,  -  .  168 
XXII.     Plants  Valuable  Because  of  the  Autumn  Colouration  of 

the  Leaves     .      . I7I 

A — Early 173 

B — Medium     .  173 

C — Late      . 173 

a.  Coloured  foliage 174 

b.  Green  foliage 174 

XXIII.  Fast-Growing  Types  Valuable  for  Producing  Screen  Effects  176 

A — Trees 177 

B — Shrubs 177 

XXIV.  Plants  Adapted  to  Various  Types  of  Soil  Conditions   .      .  178 

A — Boggy  and  peaty  soils 179 

a.  Boggy  situations 180 

b.  Peaty  situations 181 

B — Light,  sandy  soils 181 

a.  Trees 181 

b.  Shrubs 181 

c.  Vines 182 

C — Heavy  types  of  soils 182 

a.  Trees 182 

*  b.  Shrubs 182 

c.  Vines  , 183 

D — Trees  tolerant  of  alkali  soils 183 

E — Drought-resisting  plants 183 

XXV.     Plants  for  Exposed  Lake  Front  and  River  Conditions .      .  185 

A — Trees 186 

B— Shrubs 187 

C— Vines    .      .      .    ' 187 

XXVI.     Trees  and  Shrubs  for  Seaside  Planting 188 

A — Plants  hardy  under  the  severe  exposure  of  the 

North  Atlantic  Coast 189 

a.  Deciduous  trees 189 

b.  Conifers 190 

c.  Shrubs 190 

B — Plants  hardy  in  the  less  severe  seaside  exposures.  190 

a.  Deciduous  trees 191 

b.  Conifers 191 

c.  Shrubs 191 

XXVII.     Plants  for  Partially  Shaded  Locations 192 


CONTENTS  xv 

lArTER  PAGE 

XXVIII.     Plants  for  Undergrowth  Planting  in  Wooded  Areas      .      .  194 

A — Shrubs  and  small  trees 196 

B — Ground-cover  plants 197 

XXIX.     Plants  for  Ground  Cover 199 

A — Moist  locations 203 

B — Dry  locations ..;....  204 

C — Shady  locations    .      .      .      ......      .      .  205 

D — Ferns ......  205 

a.  Dry,  shady  places    ..........  206 

b.  Moist,  shady  places 206 

E — Embankments  and  rocky  slopes 206 

a.  Shrubs 206 

b.  Perennials      .    •„.••.;.     ....      .      .      .  207 

c.  Vines  .  ,  .  :  .  ,  ,     *    ;.     *     •      ...     .      .  207 
F — Small-flowering  and  foliage  plants  for  crevices  be- 
tween stepping-stones  and  for  paved  terrace  areas  208 

G — Perennials  adapted  to  open  sunny  exposures  .      .  208 

H — Ground  cover  among  rhododendrons  and  azaleas.  209 

I — Ground  cover  among  roses   .     -..      .      ....  210 

XXX.     Game  Cover  Plants      .     .  '  ;  '••'.     .     .     ;     .     .     .     .  211 

A — Foliage,  buds,  and  blossoms  (Spring  cover)     .      .  212 

B — Nuts  or  seeds  (Autumn  cover)    .     ..      .      .-.  212 

XXXI.     Perennials  for  Different  Purposes       .      .     n     .      .      .      .214 

A — Hardy  perennials  for  general  use     .      .     .     ..  .  .  221 

B — Perennials  according  to  colour  and  season .      .      .  222 

a.  Perennials  for  spring — purple,  lavender,  or  blue 
flowers 222 

b.  Perennials  for  spring — white  flowers  ....  222 

c.  Perennials  for  spring — pink  to  crimson  flowers   .  223 

d.  Perennials  for  spring — yellow  to  orange  flowers .  223 

e.  Perennials  for  summer — purple,  lavender,  or  blue 
flowers 224 

f.  Perennials  for  summer — white  flowers     .      .      .  224 

g.  Perennials  for  summer — pink  to  crimson  flowers  225 
h.  Perennials  for  summer — yellow  to  orange  flowers  225 
i.  Perennials  for  autumn — purple,  lavender,  or  blue 

flowers 226 

j.  Perennials  for  autumn — white  flowers       .      .      .  226 

k.  Perennials  for  autumn — pink  to  crimson  flowers  226 

1.  Perennials  for  autumn — yellow  to  orange  flowers  227 


xvi  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 


RUM 

C — Perennials  for  naturalizing  in  wild  garden  areas   .  227 

a.  Tall  types      .            .      .      .      .      ...      .      .  227 

b.  Low  types 228 

D — Perennials  for  long  flowering  period     ....  228 
E — Perennials  seldom  used  in  small,  refined,  formal 

gardens 229 

F —  Perennials  to  supply  "  perpetual  bloom  "...  230 

G —  Perennials  for  use  among  peonies 230 

H — Perennials  for  good  blooming  combinations   .      .  231 

I — Perennials  valuable  for  cut  flowers 232 

J — Perennials  which  should  be  treated  as  biennials  .  233 

K —  Perennials  to  be  transplanted  frequently.      .      .  233 

a.  To  be  divided  every  two  years 233 

b.  To  be  divided  every  three  years 233 

c.  To  be  divided  each  year      .      .      .      .      .      .      .  234 

L — Perennials  for  water  planting 234 

a.  Deep  water 234 

b.  Shallow  water 234 

c.  Land  at  the  water-side 234 

M — Perennials  for  planting  against  the  shrub  border  235 

N — Perennials  for  attracting  humming  birds   .     .      .  236 

XXXII.    Annuals 237 

A — Annuals  especially  valuable  for  cut  flowers     .      .  239 
B — Annuals  to  be  sown  for  ground  cover  ....  240 
C — Annuals  which  are  difficult  to  transplant  success- 
fully         241 

D — Annuals  which  should  be  planted  in  several  sow- 
ings to  insure  a  succession  of  bloom     .      .      .      .241 
E — Annuals  to  be  started  indoors  in  order  to  produce 

good  bloom  before  frost 242 

F — Annual  vines .  242 

a.  Delicate  foliage 242 

b.  Heavy  foliage 242 

G — Annuals  for  carpet  bedding 243 

H — Annuals  for  design  bedding 245 

XXXIII.     Horticultural  Varieties,  Select  List  of 247 

A — Lilacs 249 

B — Peonies 250 

C — Small  flowering  trees 250 


CONTENTS  xvit 

IAPTEB  PAO« 

D — Roses 251 

a.  Best  climbing  roses 251 

b.  Hardiest  garden  roses    .      .      .      .      .      .      .      .  251 

1.  Hybrid  perpetual,  crimson  and  red       .      .      .  251 

2.  Hybrid  perpetual,  pink  .     ,,..'.„•     .      .      .      .  251 

3.  Hybrid  perpetual,  white .      ...      .      .      .  251 

4.  Yellow        .      .      . 25 1 

5.  Moss 251 

c.  Best  hybrid  tea  roses 251 

E — Broad-leaved  evergreens 252 

a.  Rhododendrons  and  azaleas 252 

b.  Other  broad-leaved  evergreens 252 

F — Lilies     .      .     .    , .     .  ^ 253 

a.  List  of  lilies  .     ....,.,. 253 

b.  Easy  culture  in  garden  soil 256 

c.  Moist  and  boggy  locations 256 

d.  Calcareous  soil 257 

e.  Open  sun       .           257 

f.  Undergrowth.      . 257 

g.  Sandy  or  dry  soils 257 

h.  Clay  soil 257 

i.  Shady  locations 257 

XXXIV.     Vines . 258 

A — Flowering  ...      .      .      .      .      ...      .      .      .  260 

B — Use  on  brick,  stone,  and  masonry 260 

C — Climbing  habit  and  heavy  foliage 260 

D — Fruiting -   .      .      .      .  261 

E — Fast-growing ~~~. 261 

XXXV.     Window  Boxes  and  Hanging  Baskets 262 

A — Window  boxes 264 

a.  South  or  west  exposure 264 

b.  East  exposure 264 

c.  North  exposure   . 265 

B — Hanging  baskets 265 

a.  Vine-like  habit    .      . 265 

b.  Upright  habit  and  good  flowers 266 

c.  Upright  habit  and  good  foliage 266 

XXXVI.    Bulbs .     .     .  267 

A — Refined  lawn  and  garden  areas       .      .      .      .      .  270 

B — Naturalizing  in  woodland  and  wild  gardens    .      .  270 

C — Narcissi  for  different  locations  .     .     ...     .     .  271 


xviii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAG" 

D — Tulip  combinations    .      .      .     ......  271 

a.  Single .  271 

b.  Double 272 

c.  Cottage    .      ...«.-. 272 

d.  Darwin 272 

E — Best  varieties  for  forcing 273 

a.  Forcing  in  soil 273 

b.  Forcing  in  water 274 

XXXVII.     Fragrant  Plants 275 

A — Fragrant  flowers 275 

a.  Shrubs 275 

b.  Trees 276 

c.  Perennials 276 

B — Fragrant  leaves 277 

a.  Trees  and  shrubs 277 

b.  Perennials 277 

XXXVIII.     Poisonous  Plants 278 

A — Internally  poisonous 279 

B — Skin  irritants 280 

C — Causing  hay  fever "^     ~  280 

XXXIX.     Ornamental  Plants  Subject  to  Disease  and  Insect  Pests  .  282 

XL.     Plants  Difficult  to  Transplant  and  Those  Adapted  for 

Transplanting  at  Specific  Seasons  of  the  Year     .      .      .  286 

A — Plants  which  should  be  transplanted  in  autumn  .  289 

B — Plants  which  should  be  transplanted  in  spring     .  289 

C — Plants  which  are  transplanted  with  little  success .  290 

a.  Plants  to  be  rarely  if  ever  transplanted   .      .      .  290 

b.  Plants  which  recover  slowly  from  the  operation 

of  transplanting 290 

XLI.     Shrubs  for  Forcing  in  Water  in  Early  Spring    ....  292 

XLII.     Pruning  Lists 294 

A — Shrubs  needing  complete  pruning 296 

a.  Spring  and  early  summer  flowering    .     .      .      .  296 

b.  Late  summer  and  fall  flowering     .      ...      .  297 
B — Shrubs  needing  removal  of  old  wood  only.      .      .  297 

a.  Summer  pruning      .      .      .      .     ".      .      .      .      .  297 

b.  Winter  pruning 297 

C — Trees  which  require  little  or  no  pruning    .      .      .  298 

D — Evergreens  that  should  be  pruned  in  May  orjune  298 

E — Evergreens  that  may  be  pruned  at  any  time.      .  298 


CONTENTS  xix 

TBR  PAGE 

XLIII.     Plants  for  Florida .      .     .      ,     .  299 

A — Windbreaks     .      .      . 300 

B — Trees  for  street  and  specimen  planting      .      .      .  301 

a.  Northern  list .     .      .      .••.-..    .*.  v.    ..      .      .      .  301 

b.  Southern  list.     .     ,     .     *     » 301 

C — Vines    .      .     .     .     .     .     .     * 302 

a.  Lattices  and  wire  fences     .      ....      .      .  302 

b.  Masonry  walls 303 

D — Shrubs  with  attractive  fruit 303 

E — Hedges       ....      . 304 

a.  Middle  and  southern  Florida 305 

b.  Northern  Florida 305 

F — Flowering  shrubs  for  middle  and  southern  Florida  305 

a.  White  flowers 305 

b.  Pink  flowers 306 

c.  Yellow  flowers 306 

d.  Red  flowers 307 

e.  Purple  and  blue  flowers 307 

G — Ground-cover  plants 307 

H — Shrubs  for  shady  conditions 308 

I — Herbaceous  plants 308 

J — Plants  for  seashore  planting 3 10 

a.  Trees 310 

b.  Shrubs 310 

c.  Vines 311 

XLIV.     Plants  for  Minnesota 312 

A— Hedges       ...... 313 

a.  Barriers 313 

b.  Windbreaks *     .  313 

B — Ground  cover .%}• 313 

a.  Shrubs 313 

b.  Vines 314 

C — Plants  valuable  for  autumn  colouration  of  leaves.  3 14 

a.  Early 314 

b.  Medium 314 

D — Heavy,  formal  effects      .      .     *     :.     •     .     .     *  314 

E — Street  trees      .     /     .      .      .     ; 315 

a.  Entirely  hardy  under  all  conditions    .      .      .      .315 

b.  Which  should  be  selected  with  a  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  the  conditions  under  which  they  are  to 

be  used     v    ;   ;'.;     »•     .      . '  x,,,      i     .      .     ,.     .  315 


xx  CONTENTS 


F  —  Evergreens  most  used      .      .......  315 

G  —  Not  hardy  in  Minnesota  ........  316 

XLV.     Plants  for  South  Atlantic  States  ........  318 

A  —  Ground  cover  ...      .......      .319 

a.  Moist  places       ..........  319 

b.  Dry  places     ...........  319 

B  —  Hedges  .......      ......  320 

a.  Holding  leaves  throughout  winter  .....  320 

b.  Not  holding  leaves  throughout  winter     .      .      .  321 
C  —  Trees  for  street  planting  ........  321 

D  —  Evergreens  most  used     ........  322 

E  —  Formal  effects  ...........  322 

F  —  Border  planting    ...........  323 

a.  Low-growing  deciduous  shrubs      .....  323 

b.  Low-growing  evergreen  shrubs      .....  324 

c.  Medium-growing  deciduous  shrubs     ....  325 

d.  Medium-growing  evergreen  shrubs     .      .      .      .326 
G  —  Fruit  valuable  for  its  colour  effects  .....  327 
H  —  Specimen  trees  and  shrubs  .......  327 

a.  Trees  ...........    -»     .  327 

b.  Shrubs     ........      ....  329 

I  —  Perennials  for  gardens  and  cut  flowers  .      .      .      .329 

J  —  Perennials  for  naturalizing  in  wild  gardens    .        .  330 
K  —  Plants  which  are  commonly  and  freely  used  in  the 

south  but  are  not  hardy  farther  north  .      .      .      .  331 

a.  Trees  .............  331 

b.  Shrubs      ............  332 

L  —  Vines  for  the  south     .........  332 

XL  VI.     Plants  for  Use  on  the  Oregon  and  Washington  Coastal 

Plain      ..............  334 

A  —  Hedges  .............  335 

a.  Deciduous     ...........  335 

b.  Evergreen      ...........  335 

B  —  Plants  for  ground  cover  ........  335 

a.  Open  sun  ............  336 

b.  Shade  .............  336 

C  —  Plants  for  border  planting    .......  336 

a.  Refined  lawn  masses      .......  337 

b.  Native  and  collected  plants     ......  337 

D  —  Street  and  avenue  planting  .......  337 

E  —  Plants  for  heavily  shaded  locations      ....  337 


CONTENTS  xxi 

PAGE 

F — Plants  valuable  for  autumn  colouration  of  leaves  338 

G — Vines •  .      .      .  338 

H — Evergreens  most  used 339 

a.  Conifers   .      .     .     .     .     .-' 339 

b.  Broad-leaved      .      .     .      . 339 

Bibliography 343 

Glossary. 355 

Index „ 378 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATB  PAGE 

I.  The  scarlet  thorns  planted  on  both  sides  of  the  wall  on  either  side  of  the 
gate  make  an  excellent  frame  for  this  architectural  detail  at  the  garden 
entrance .  .  .  , Frontispiece 

II.  This  map  shows  those  portions  of  the  United  States  which  because  of 
climatic  environment  and  geographic  location  possess  similar  planting 
seasons.  Investigation  of  zones  of  similar  planting  seasons  has,  to  date, 
not  provided  complete  information  to  the  landscape  architect  in  his 

Planting  work.     For  supplementary  information  refer  to  Plate  No. 
II  on  Page  14.     (In  colour) 6 

III.  A  chart  to  aid  in  determining  the  most  favourable  period  for  transplanting, 
and  for  seeding  of  lawns  in  various  sections  of  the  United  States.     Note 
the  long  winter  periods  of  the  Northern  Zones   and    the  continuous 
planting  seasons  of  the  Southern  Zones.     It  is  of  great  importance  to  be 
able  to  plan  ahead  and  to  order  plants  for  delivery  at  the  proper  time  for 
any  section  of  the  country.     These  are  average  seasons  resulting  from 
observations  of  normal  seasons  during  a  period  of  years.     For  supple- 
mentary information  refer  to  Plate  No.  II  on  Page  6  ......       14 

IV.  The  hedge  which  may  look  unkept  and  ragged  if  not  pruned  will  in  the 
hands  of  the  skilled  gardener  assume  almost  any  degree  of  refined  out- 
line.    These  photographs  show  one  of  our  most  desirable  hedge  plants, 

the  Japanese  privet  (Ligustrum  ibota)       ...,,.. 20 

V.  The  correct  pruning  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  a  great  factor  in  the  successful 
maintenance  of  landscape  plantings.  These  diagrammatic  drawings 
together  with  the  explanations  on  the  opposite  page  illustrate  correct 
and  incorrect  methods  of  pruning 24 

VI.  A  knowledge  of  the  various  operations  involved  in  the  work  of  correctly 
transplanting  plants  is  essential  for  their  subsequent  normal  develop- 
ment. These  diagrammatic  drawings  accompanied  by  the  explanation 
on  the  opposite  page  illustrate  various  transplanting  operations.  .  .  34 

VII.  Immediately  after  transplanting,  the  trunk  of  every  large  tree  should.be 
protected  with  a  covering  of  burlap  (Fig.  B)  which  prevents  excessive 
drying  out  and  consequent  cracking  and  loosening  of  the  bark  (Fig. 
A).  This  protection  is  especially  necessary  during  the  warmer  summer 
months 40 

VIII.  To  most  of  us  in  the  northern  states  the  method  of  seeding  a  lawn  is 
familiar,  but  the  method  of  making  lawns  in  southern  states  by  planting 
Bermuda  grass  is  little  known.  In  these  photographs  small  clumps  of 
Bermuda  grass  are  being  planted  in  "hills"  staggered  at  intervals  ranging 
from  eighteen  inches  to  thirty  inches.  The  thicker  the  planting  the 
more  quickly  a  mat  of  turf  can  be  developed 41 


XXIV 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PLATE 

IX. 


X. 


XL 


XII. 


XIII. 


XIV. 


XV. 


XVI. 
XVII. 

XVIII. 
XIX. 


It  is  important  to  know  the  depth,  distance  apart,  and  time  of  the  year 
at  which  different  kinds  of  bulbs  should  be  planted.  Many  disappoint- 
ing flower  effects  are  the  result  of  violating  these  rules  with  reference  to 
depth,  distance  apart,  and  time  of  planting  ........  46 

Trees  are  given  winter  protection  both  against  injury  from  sun-scald 
and  against  injury  from  severe  wind  and  changing  temperature  condi- 
tions. This  photograph  shows  one  method  of  protecting  hemlocks 
against  the  sun's  rays 62 

The  list  of  evergreens  adapted  to  soil  and  to  climatic  conditions  of  the 
middle  west,  and  valuable  for  low,  refined  mass  plantings  is  limited. 
The  upper  photograph  shows  an  effect  produced  by  the  use  of  dwarf  yew, 
Pfitzer's  and  tamarisk-leaved  junipers,  Mugho  pines  and  Japanese  spurge 
edging.  The  lower  photograph  shows  the  effectiveness  of  masses  of  low, 
refined  evergreens  against  massive  architecture 63 

Under  climatic  and  soil  conditions  favourable  to  their  growth  evergreens 
will  produce  a  landscape  picture  incapable  of  reproduction  through  the 
use  of  deciduous  plants.  This  photograph  shows  an  effective  use,  under 
Long  Island  conditions,  of  arborvitae,  red  cedars,  junipers,  rhododen- 
dron, and  yews  as  a  background  for  a  refined,  formal  pool ....  78 

Carefully  selected  and  planted  trees  for  avenue  and  street  planting 
provide  a  uniform  and  a  symmetrical  effect  together  with  the  inviting 
shade,  all  of  which  are  so  essential  to  the  standards  of  modern  residential 
districts ; — -.  79 

The  list  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  thrive  in  the  congested  city  districts 
where  soil  conditions  are  poor  and  the  air  is  polluted  with  smoke  and 
dust  is  limited  to  a  few  kinds,  of  which  the  tree  of  heaven,  locust,  and 
catalpa  are  typical  94 

An  interesting  use  of  hedges  to  frame  one  side  of  the  refined  formal 

garden.    Japanese  quince  on  the  left  side  of  the  walk.    Japanese  bar- 
erry  against  the  right  side  accented  with  sheared  retinosporas,  and 
buttresses  of  Japanese  quince  and  Amoor  River  privet  on  the  extreme 
left  against  the  vine-covered  wall,  form  the  features  of  this   compo- 
sition       95 

Plume-like  cypress,  naturally  a  small  tree,  can  be  maintained  as  a  com- 
pact and  a  very  formal  low  hedge  if  given  plenty  of  skillful  pruning 
and  protection  in  winter no 

The  Canadian  hemlock,  when  grown  from  the  northern  seed  and  when 
well  established,  forms  one  of  the  best  windbreaks  and  barriers  for  the 
protection  of  the  garden  or  orchard  wherever  drifting  snow  must  be  over- 
come and  seclusion  also  attained no 

Upon  a  spacious  lawn  effective  use  can  occasionally  be  made  of  trees 
and  shrubs  possessing  symmetrical  habits  of  growths  and  fine  flowering 
and  fruiting  qualities.  The  deutzia  is  a  shrub  with  these  capabilities, 
but  it  is  seldom  seen  as  a  specimen  plant.  Restraint,  however,  must  be 
observed  and  a  dotted  effect  avoided I IO 

The  extended  lawn  area  often  requires  specimen  trees  to  lend  scale 
and  colour  to  the  picture,  and  it  also  offers  opportunity  to  display  the 
natural  beauty  of  many  of  our  fine  specimen  trees in 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


XXV 


XX.  An  effective  combination  of  stone  work  and  of  plantings  in  an  informal 
lawn  area.  Varieties  of  stonecrop,  moss  pinks,  and  Scotch  pinks  lend 
charm  to  an  otherwise  uninteresting  mass  of  stone.  (See  Plate  No. 
LIH,  Page  334,  for  lily  planting  shown  in  background  of  this  picture.)  126 

XXI.  An  uninteresting  rocky  slope  often  can  be  turned  into  an  attractive 
landscape  feature  through  the  careful  selection  and  planting  of  plants 
adapted  to  light,  sandy  soils.  This  slope  is  covered  with  a  grouping 
of  hardy  pinks,  evergreen  candytuft,  saxifrage,  and  tufted  pansy  .  127 

XXII.  To  develop  a  successful  rock  garden,  not  only  must  the  stones  be  well 
placed,  but  the  plants  must  be  selected  to  produce  an  effect  in  keeping 
with  the  scale  of  the  garden;  otherwise  the  effect  will  be  that  of  a 
collection  of  stones  which  overpower  the  garden  picture,  as  shown 
above 142 

XXIII.  To  few  of  us  does  the  term  "wall  garden"  convey  a  definite  im- 
pression.    Yet  how  frequently  the  opportunity  comes,  even  in  a  small 
way,  to  change  a  wall  of  rock  to  a  wall  of  flowers  and  foliage.     In 
this  photograph  we  see  Scotch  pinks,  creeping  phlox,  golden  tuft, 
tunica,  and  other  similar  plants  used  to  excellent  advantage      .      .     143 

XXIV.  An  interior  view  of  a  pleached  allee  eight  years  after  transplanting. 
Note  the  spacing  of  the  larger  plants  of  the  European  cork  maple 
at  intervals  of  three  feet,  with  "fillers"  between  each  two  of  the 
larger  trees.    Compare  with  Plate  No.  XXVII  on  Page  175  for  the  ex- 
terior view.    Openings  have  been  cut  in  the  top  of  this  allee  to  pro- 
duce interesting  spots  of  sunlight  on  the  walk  158 

XXV.  An  excellent  illustration  of  pleasing  garden  formality  filled  with  box- 
wood hedges,  as  edgings  for  carpet  plantings  of  Japanese  spurge,  and 
accented  with  specimens  of  California  privet  neatly  trimmed  in  a 
pyramidal  form  to  represent  boxwood 159 

XXVI.  The  use  of  bay  trees  in  tubs  is  required  in  many  of  the  northern  gar- 
dens to  produce  accent  points  often  at  spots  where  no  permanent  plant 
can  be  planted  in  the  ground.  These  trees  are  stored  in  cool  green- 
houses during  the  winter  months 174 


XXVII.    A  pleached  allee  may  form  jiot  only  a  most  interesting  feature  as 
XXVIII. 


shown  on  Plate  No.  XXIV,  Page  158,  but  this  one  serves  as  a  solid 
screen  between  the  lawn  area  and  the  service  buildings     .... 


175 


This  open  allee  is  framed  on  either  side  by  a  solid  row  of  closely 
sheared  thorn  trees.  Its  formal  lines  are  softened  by  the  row  of  pink- 
flowering  dogwoods  which  add  a  charm  of  flowers  in  early  spring  and 
of  fruit  in  the  late  fall.  Thorns  planted  four  to  five  feet  apart  and 
dogwoods  eight  feet  apart.  Width  between  rows  of  thorns  twenty- 
two  feet  and  between  rows  of  dogwoods  nine  to  ten  feet.  (See  ex- 
planation of  measurementsxm  Page  144) 190 

XXIX.  An  open  allee  twelve  feet  wide  and  eight  hundred  feet  long,  developed 
by  the  use  of  white  birch  planted  three  to  four  feet  apart  in  each  row. 
For  a  permanent  allee  of  this  type  the  birch  is  not  ideal  because  of  its 
short-lived  characteristics  and  susceptibility  to  borer.  Thorns  or  the 
European  beech  would  be  preferable  . 191 

XXX.  A  group  of  Japanese  snowball,  producing  flowers  in  spring  soon  after 
the  leaves  appear,  adds  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  a  landscape 
picture  .  .  .....  .  ;  i.  .  ;  ^  :,  .-v  i  v  .  ,  • .  .  .  .  206 


XXVI 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PLATE 

XXXI.  It  is  quite  important  in  the  planting  of  the  spring  garden  that  the 
designer  should  know  those  shrubs  which  produce  flowers  before 
the  leaves  appear,  similar  to  the  Carolina  azalea  (B),  and  those 
early-flowering  shrubs  which  produce  flowers  and  leaves  at  the  same 
time,  similar  to  the  bladder-nut  (A).  (In  colour)  .  .  .  .  .  214 

XXXII.  In  the  permanent  planting  no  flowering  tree  or  shrub  deserves  more 
favourable  consideration  than  the  fine  type  of  Scheidecker's  semi- 
double  rose-flowering  crab  illustrated  above 222 

XXXIII.  As  a  specimen  flowering  plant  for  early  spring  effect  the  Japanese 
weeping   rose-flowered    cherry   is   extremely  interesting,   covered 
always  before  the  leaves  appear  with  an  abundance  of  rose-pink 
flowers 223 

XXXIV.  It  is  a  source  of  much  satisfaction  to  the  plant  designer  to  know 
that  shrubs  which  are  carefully  selected  for  the  colour  of  their 
flowers  may  produce  very  effective  colour  combinations.    This 
plate  shows  the  St.  John's  wort  (A)  in  combination  with  the  sweet- 
scented  buddleia  (B).     (In  colour) 230 

XXXV.  The  average  person  who  has  not  become  interested  in  the  colour 
effects  produced  by  the  fruits  of  our  common  trees  and  shrubs  can 
hardly  appreciate  the  intense  colour  display  of  the  American  bitter- 
sweet (A),  the  Washington  thorn  (B),  and  the  white  fringe  (C). 
(In  colour.) 230 

XXXVI.  The  garden  designer  must  always  bear  in  mind  that  many  of  our 
shrubs  which  produce  very  uninteresting  flowers  are  the  ones  which 
produce  our  most  attractive  fruiting  effects.  The  variation  in 
colours  of  the  fruits  ranges  from  the  pure  white  of  the  snowberry 
(A)  through  the  purple  and  porcelain  blue  of  the  beauty  fruit  (C) 
to  the  vivid  reds  of  which  the  Japanese  bush  cranberry  (B)  is 
typical.  (In  colour) 230 

XXXVII.  Not  only  because  of  the  interesting  colour  of  its  fruit  in  combination 
with  the  fruit  of  other  shrubs,  but  because  of  the  size  and  abundance 
of  its  fruit,  the  snowberry  is  one  of  our  conspicuous  and  valuable 
shrubs  .....  238 

XXXVIII.  During  the  winter  months  when  there  is  little  else  in  the  shrub 
border  to  attract  attention,  the  vivid  colours  of  the  twigs  of  many 
of  our  shrubs  present  interesting  spots  of  colour  against  the  back- 
ground of  evergreens  or  snow.  (A) — red-twigged  dogwood;  (B) — 
green-stemmed  dogwood;  (C) — red  birch;  (D) — golden-twigged 
osier;  (E) — grey  dogwood;  (F) — striped  maple.  (In  colour)  . 


246 


XXXIX.  What  is  more  beautiful  in  the  landscape  than  the  intensely  brilliant 
colours  of  the  autumn  foliage  of  many  of  our  trees  and  shrubs? 
More  plants  should  be  used  for  the  value  of  their  autumn  foliage 
effect.  (A) — burning  bush;  (B)— dark  green  golden  bell;  (C) — 
maple-leaved  viburnum;  (D) — sassafras;  (E) — maidenhair  tree; 
(F) — sourwood.  (In  colour) .,".',.  .  .  247 

XL.  In  solving  the  difficult  planting  problems  on  exposed  lake  fronts 
and  river  fronts  there  is  no  plant  in  the  limited  list  of  adaptable 
types  to  excel  the  beach-plum 254 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


XXVll 


PLAT1  PAG1 

XLI.  The  problem  of  developing  desirable  undergrowth  plantings  in 
wooded  areas  requires  much  study  of  plants  as  nature  places  them. 
The  rhododendron,  except  in  exposed  locations,  is  "happy"  in  wood- 
land areas  where  soil  conditions  meet  the  root  requirements  .  .  .  255 

XL1I.  In  open  sunny  exposures  on  sandy  or  light  loam  soil  there  is  no 
ground  cover  which  surpasses  the  Japanese  spurge  in  richness  of 
colour  or  interesting  texture  of  foliage,  especially  in  combination 
with  plantings  of  evergreens 270 

XLIII.  Our  garden  steps  can  be  made  a  part  of  the  flower  garden,  and  not 
the  usual  cold  and  uninviting  mass  of  stone  or  brick,  by  a  well- 
designed  grouping  of  plants  adapted  for  growth  in  the  earth  crevices 
among  the  rocks.  Note  the  use  of  candytuft,  ground  phlox,  moss 
pinks,  varieties  of  stonecrops,  and  rock  cress 271 

XLIV.  The  large  garden  filled  with  perennials  usually  consists  of  larger 
groups  of  flowering  perennials  which  produce  masses  of  colour 
during  their  period  of  bloom.  Iris,  phlox,  hollyhocks,  gladioli, 
larkspur,  and  anemone  produce  the  more  important  flower  effects  in 
this  garden 286 

XLV.  A  cut-flower  garden;  the  central  part  filled  with  annuals  and  the 
outer  border  of  perennials  serving  as  a  frame  with  shrubs  in  the 
extreme  background.  A  garden  of  this  kind  can  have  a  succession 
of  bloom  throughout  the  flowering  season 287 

XLVI.  Many  of  our  common  garden  perennials  possess  the  possibilities  to 
produce  very  interesting  colour  effects  through  the  colour  combina- 
tions of  the  flowers.  (A) — Italian  alkanet;  (B) — hardy  marguerite. 
(In  colour) 294 

XL VII.  During  the  early  spring  no  woodland  wild  garden  is  complete  without 
its  quota  of  trilliums,  grape  hyacinth,  and  hepatica  which  grow  lux- 
uriantly if  happily  surrounded  by  conditions  of  soil  and  shade  .  .  302 

XLVIII.  Among  those  plants  which  become  easily  established  in  the  wild 
garden  there  is  none  the  flower  effect  of  which  excels  the  Japanese 
windflower  during  the  late  summer  .  .  . 303 

XLIX.  In  the  selection  of  perennials  for  the  garden  not  only  should  the 
possibilities  of  interesting  colour  combinations  in  the  flower  effects  be 
observed,  but  also  the  possibilities  for  interesting  texture  of  foliage. 
(A) — larkspur;  (B) — lemon  lily  (commonly  called  day  lily).  (In 
colour) 310 

L.    A  few  water-lilies  may  enhance  a  picture  such  as  the  above,  but  a 

proper  restraint  in  their  use  and  control  is  always  desirable  .     .      .     318 

LI.  The  artificial  lake  or  pond  may  receive  a  natural  effect  if  the  banks 
near  the  water's  edge  are  planted  with  groups  of  water-loving  plants. 
In  this  picture  one  sees  the  marsh-mallow,  day-lily,  iris,  plantain- 
lily,  loosestrife,  plume  grass,  and  showy  sedum  successfully  used.  .  319 

LII.  There  are  those  who  much  prefer  to  develop  their  formal  flower  garden 
picture  entirely  by  the  use  of  annuals.  This  garden  which  is  not  for 
a  source  of  cut  flowers  is  filled  with  heliotrope,  yellow  tulip  poppy, 
snapdragon,  pentstemon,  annual  carnation,  candytuft,  and  others  not 
recognizable  from  this  picture 334 


XXV111 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PLATE 

LIII. 


LIV. 
LV. 

LVI. 

LVII. 

LVIII. 

LIX. 

LX. 

LXI. 

LXII. 
LXIII. 


An  informal  planting  of  Scotch  pines  and  Mugho  pines  may  be  ac- 
cented by  the  use  of  a  few  specimens  of  lilies  to  brighten  the  landscape 
picture  as  well  as  to  serve  as  a  background  for  the  flowering  effect  of 
the  lilies 334 

The  knotweed  is  not  only  one  of  the  most  rapid-growing  vines,  but 
its  abundance  of  delicate  white  flowers  and  its  long-blooming  period 
make  it  valuable  for  many  locations  on  the  lattice  framework.  A — 
First  summer  after  transplanting;  B — Second  summer  after  trans- 
planting   334 

One  of  the  best  vines  for  use  on  masonry  walls  is  the  Boston  ivy,  but 
no  vine  should  be  allowed  to  overpower  fine  architectural  details. 
This  illustration  also  shows  a  perfectly  developed  European  beech 
hedge  (ten  years  old)  planted  in  a  single  row  with  plants  eighteen 
inches  apart 335 

A  pleasing  combination  of  the  vigorous  climbing  wisteria  used  to- 
gether with  window  boxes  filled  with  periwinkle  to  relieve  the  heavy 
and  otherwise  bare  architectural  effect 350 

Nasturtiums,  marigolds,  English  ivy,  periwinkle,  and  petunias  make 
a  window  box  foliage  and  flower  effect  which  adds  greatly  to  the  attrac- 
tiveness of  any  home  350 

During  the  months  of  April  and  May  the  flower  garden  filled  with 
refined  types  of  tulips  carefully  arranged  to  produce  masses  of  colour 
is  the  equal  of  the  garden  at  any  other  month  of  the  growing  season. 
This  garden  is  filled  with  the  tall  types  of  Darwin  tulips.  .  .  .  350 

With  the  first  touch  of  spring  the  crocus  begins  to  bloom  upon  the 
lawn.  This  plant  can  adapt  itself  either  to  the  refined  lawn  area  or 
to  the  woodland  and  field  areas >,  .  .  .  351 

There  is  always  an  opportunity,  on  every  larger  estate,  for  the  natural- 
izing of  bulbs.  Poet's  narcissus  is  quite  happy  in  a  wild  garden  or 
field  environment 366 

Throughout  the  southern  states  the  creeping  fig  is  one  of  the  most 
desirable  vines  for  growth  on  masonry  walls.  It  develops  interesting 
foliage  of  a  fine  texture  and  is  a  vigorous  grower  and  compares  favour- 
ably with  the  Lowe's  Boston  ivy  so  successfully  used  in  the  northern 
states 367 

Used  as  a  tree  for  screen  effects,  specimen  planting,  or  hedges,  the 
Australian  pine  is  throughout  southern  Florida  one  of  the  most 
freely  used  plants 374 

The  yellow  allamanda  desirable  because  of  its  heavy  foliage,  and  be- 
cause of  its  beautiful  yellow  flowers,  is  frequently  neglected  for  use  in 
Florida  plantings  as  a  shrub  or  a  vine 375 


PART  I 
GENERAL  PLANTING  SUGGESTIONS 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


CHAPTER  I 
INTRODUCTION 

THE  METHOD  OF  TREATMENT.  The  lists  of  plants  do  not  represent 
a  complete  and  thoroughly  exhaustive  study  of  the  subject.  The 
general  discussions  and  groupings  will  provide  persons  interested  in  the 
use  of  plant  materials  with  essential  facts,  in  a  compact  form,  con- 
cerning the  appropriate  use  of  the  more  permanent  species  of  trees, 
shrubs,  vines,  perennials,  annuals,  and  bulbs. 

The  study  of  plants  and  their  specific  uses  in  landscape  planting 
can  to  some  extent  be  analyzed  and  tabulated  for  reference  purposes 
in  the  same  way  that  plants  are  grouped  for  purposes  of  identification. 
This  study,  however,  is  not  based  entirely  upon  scientific  facts,  and 
therefore  is  subject  to  personal  points  of  view,  and  many  times  no 
hard  and  fast  line  can  be  drawn  which  will  place  any  one  plant  in 
one  list  in  preference  to  the  possibility  of  placing  it  in  some  other  list. 

THE  ARRANGEMENT  OF  THE  MATERIAL.  At  the  beginning  of  each 
main  group,  and  at  the  beginning  of  each  sub-heading  under  the  main 
groups,  there  is  a  short  discussion  of  the  fundamental  principles 
governing  that  particular  type  of  classification  of  plants  for  landscape 
uses.  This  discussion  will  be  of  some  assistance  by  way  of  enabling 
the  reader  properly  to  consult  the  lists  contained  under  these  headings. 

A  number  of  chapters  are  included  in  this  discussion,  devoted  to  the 
following  subjects:  Pruning,  Planting  Seasons,  Planting  and  Trans- 
planting, Maintenance,  Winter  Protection  and  Mulching,  Lawns, 
Selection  and  Planting  of  Bulbs.  The  author  feels  that  there  should 
be  in  a  book  of  this  kind  a  concise  statement  of  the  fundamental  prin- 
ciples which  govern  work  in  this  field  of  Landscape  Plantings.  These 
chapters  are  in  no  way  a  complete  discussion  of  these  subjects.  They 
are  more  in  the  form  of  instructions  and  specifications  which  will  serve 

3 


4  :rm  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

as  a  guide  in  the  right  direction.  For  further  and  more  complete 
information  on  these  subjects  reference  should  be  made  to  the  Bibli- 
ography (Pages  343  to  351),  both  of  articles  and  of  books,  contained  in 
the  Appendix  to  this  volume.  The  author  has  compiled  a  bibliography 
of  articles  and  books  which  are  of  distinct  value  to  the  reader.  But 
there  are  many  other  articles  and  books,  of  great  interest  and  value  to 
readers,  some  of  which  probably  have  escaped  the  author's  attention 
and  should  be  included  in  this  list.  This  list  will  be  revised  from 
time  to  time. 

THE  USE  OF  THE  INDEX.  This  book  is  indexed  very  completely 
and  in  detail  and  has  a  reference  both  to  pages  and  to  groups.  The 
reader  will  note  that  the  book  has  been  paged  in  the  usual  manner, 
and  also  that  on  each  page  the  groups  have  been  alphabetically  ar- 
ranged for  the  purpose  of  making  it  more  easy  to  consult  information 
as  referred  to  by  the  Table  of  Contents  and  by  the  Group  Index.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  this  Index  is  almost  equally  as  valuable  as  the  complete 
list  of  plants  under  each  of  the  various  groups.  By  means  of  this 
Index  the  student  who  is  familiar  with  some  plant  and  wishes  to  find  a 
proper  use  for  it  can  readily  ascertain  the  use  or  uses  to  which  the  plant 
is  adapted. 

THE  PURPOSE  OF  THE  ILLUSTRATIONS.  A  number  of  photographs 
and  drawings  have  been  introduced  throughout  this  volume.  These 
photographs  are  illustrative  of  various  group  ideas  covering  uses  of 
plants.  Words,  however  carefully  selected,  often  cannot  be  a  literal 
interpretation  of  an  idea,  whereas  a  photograph  immediately  conveys 
the  definite  idea  which  cannot  be  reproduced  in  words.  These  il- 
lustrations have  been  selected,  so  far  as  possible,  to  illustrate  the  main 
features  which  justify  the  making  of  an  individual  group  for  reference 
purposes.  It  is  hoped  that  they  may  for  that  reason  prove  to  be  of 
great  value. 

METHOD  OF  USING  THE  BOOK.  Theoretically,  a  treatise  on  any  sub- 
ject should  be  so  simplified  that  to  the  average  reader  the  method  of 
using  it  is  self-evident.  However,  a  few  suggestions  covering  the 
methods  of  consulting  the  information  in  this  volume  may  not  be 
amiss.  The  Table  of  Contents,  which  is  a  complete  compilation 
of  all  the  general  information  in  this  volume,  is  arranged  with 


INTRODUCTION  5 

many  larger  and  more  important  headings  to  include  the  many  minor 
headings.  It  is  here  that  the  reader  can  easily  find  reference  to  lists 
of  plants  which  are  valuable  for  specific  uses  by  exactly  the  inverse 
process  that  he  can  find  from  the  Index  a  reference  to  the  different 
purposes  for  which  an  individual  plant  may  be  used.  To  the  reader 
who  is  seeking  to  find  a  list  of  plants  which  can  be  used  for  a  specific 
purpose,  first,  the  Table  of  Contents  and  the  List  of  Illustrations  are  of 
direct  and  primary  value.  To  the  reader  who  is  seeking  to  find  for 
what  specific  uses  any  plant  may  be  adapted,  secondly,  the  Index  to 
pages  and  groups  of  plants  is  of  greatest  importance.  To  the  reader 
who  wishes  to  go  farther  into  the  subject  of  plant  study,  as  covered  by 
various  phases  of  landscape  work,  thirdly,  the  Bibliography  is  the  one 
reference  which  will  be  of  value.  The  complete  glossary  containing  a 
complete  list  of  definitions  covering  terms  frequently  used  by  landscape 
architects  is  of  real  value  in  defining  such  terms. 

The  criticism  may  be  raised  by  some  who  consult  a  volume  of  this 
kind  that  in  reality  no  definite  line  can  be  drawn  between  the  uses  of 
some  plants  for  one  purpose  or  for  another  purpose.  This  is  admittedly 
a  fact.  It  will  be  quite  evident  from  a  short  study  of  the  Index  that 
many  plants  frequently  have  a  distinct  and  definite  value  as  adapted  to 
different  purposes. 

RANGE  OF  MATERIAL  COVERED.  While  the  range  of  material 
covered  by  the  lists  is  sufficient  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  average 
property  holder,  the  lists  may  be  supplemented  by  additional  and 
unusual  varieties  which,  if  selected,  should  be  given  unusual  care. 
The  information  in  this  book  has  been  compiled  to  cover  the  range  of 
material  which  is  adapted  for  use  generally  throughout  the  following 
portions  of  the  United  States:  The  North  Atlantic  States,  the 
Great  Lakes  Region,  the  Central  States  as  far  west  as  the  Missouri 
River  and  as  far  south  as  Arkansas.  No  lists  have  been  compiled  for 
the  Great  Plains  and  the  Rocky  Mountain  States,  but  special  lists 
have  been  compiled  for  the  Atlantic  Coastal  Plain  from  Virginia  to 
Mississippi;  also  for  the  Peninsula  of  Florida  and  for  the  region  within 
a  radius  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  Twin  Cities.  For  the 
Pacific  Coast,  lists  have  been  prepared  for  the  Oregon-Washington 
Coastal  Plain.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  plants  which  develop 
one  type  of  growth  in  a  northern  climate  will  develop  another  type  of 
growth,  because  of  the  longer  growing  season,  in  a  southern  climate. 


6  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

THE  RANGE  or  PLANT  ADAPTATION  IN  GENERAL.  After  studying  a 
compilation  of  this  kind  the  great  range  of  plant  adaptations  becomes 
evident.  There  is  a  large  group  of  materials  which  are  hardy  under 
almost  all  conditions.  There  are  many  other  types  of  material,  how- 
ever, too  numerous  to  mention  in  detail,  which  are  adapted  only  to 
specific  sections  of  the  country. 

THE  ADAPTATION  OF  EVERGREENS  IN  PARTICULAR.  The  question 
of  the  adaptation  of  evergreens  is  perhaps  the  one  which  may  cause 
the  most  serious  discussion.  Evergreens  are  a  group  of  plants  which 
possess  widely  varying  characteristics,  especially  of  hardiness  under 
different  climatic  conditions.  The  evergreens  which  will  flourish  in  the 
humid  and  less  severe  atmosphere  of  Long  Island  will  not  grow  through 
the  windy  regions  of  the  Middle  West,  nor  in  the  extreme  exposure  of 
the  water-front  conditions  of  the  North  Atlantic  and  the  Great  Lakes 
Region.  Neither  will  evergreens  which  flourish  in  the  sandy  soils  of 
Michigan  grow  upon  the  clay  soils  of  the  Middle  Western  States. 
Therefore,  the  question  of  evergreens  has  been  carefully  considered,  and 
an  attempt  has  been  made  to  differentiate  the  groups  and  the  require- 
ments of  each.  This  subdividing  of  evergreens  for  various  locations 
is  based  entirely  upon  the  normal  protection.  Many  evergreens,  as 
with  other  plants,  will  thrive  under  abnormal  conditions  if  they  are 
nursed  and  protected  during  the  severe  winter  months.  On  the  other 
hand,  many  evergreens  which  will  withstand  the  exposures  of  winter 
conditions  will  not  continue  to  thrive  when  placed  in  the  clayey  soils 
of  some  of  our  Middle  Western  States,  where  they  are  subjected  to  the 
severe  baking  and  drying  out  of  these  soils  during  the  summer  months. 

METHOD  OF  GROUPING  PLANTS.  The  question  of  whether  plants  for 
landscape  use  should  be  grouped  according  to  height  or  according  to 
other  characteristics,  such  as  season  of  bloom,  character  of  growth, 
soil  adaptations,  etc.,  is  one  that  has  been  discussed  to  a  considerable 
extent.  The  writer  feels  that  in  the  selection  of  plants  as  a  part  of  any 
landscape  design,  the  question  of  height  is  of  secondary  consideration 
as  compared  with  the  natural  characteristics  and  adaptations  of  the 
stock  under  consideration.  The  selection  of  plants  for  specific  pur- 
poses such  as  background  planting,  undergrowth  planting,  windbreaks, 
ground  cover,  etc.,  implies  that,  in  addition  to  other  important  char- 
acteristics of  hardiness,  compactness,  and  qualities  of  fruiting  and 


INTRODUCTION  7 

flowering,  such  plants  fulfill  the  requirements  of  height  automatically 
imposed  by  some  few  groups.  Height  of  plants  means  little  to  the 
landscape  designer  as  compared  with  the  many  other  important 
requirements  of  foliage  effects,  character  of  fruits  and  flowers,  soil 
adaptations,  hardiness  and  habits  of  growth  and  their  response  to 
pruning  operations. 

In  the  selection  of  garden  perennials  questions  of  height  are  entirely 
secondary  to  the  ability  of  the  plants  to  produce  flowers  and  foliage  of 
varying  qualities,  so  essential  to  the  success  of  the  garden  picture 
during  different  months  of  the  growing  season. 


CHAPTER  II 
PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  SEASONS 

GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS.  Comparative  data  based  on  the  best 
reliable  sources  of  information  relative  to  planting  seasons  and  lawn- 
seeding  seasons  are  so  interesting  and  so  valuable,  as  a  basis  of  es- 
tablishing definite  relationships  among  varying  sections  of  the  United 
States,  that  the  writer  has  been  prompted  to  attempt  a  diagrammatic 
and  a  tabulated  analysis  of  this  important  question  (See  Plate  III). 

Considered  from  the  standpoint  of  a  plant  the  act  of  transplanting 
is  a  violent  one  and  consists  of  stopping  at  once  a  large  part  of  its  vital 
activities,  generally  causing  the  loss  of  a  considerable  part  of  its  root 
system.  Therefore,  transplanting  should  be  accompanied  by  pre- 
cautions to  prevent  too  great  loss  of  moisture  by  transpiration,  and  by 
measures  to  assist  the  plant  in  starting  growth  at  the  earliest  possible 
date.  Seeding  differs  from  transplanting  in  that  a  seed  is  a  ripened 
embryo  which  is  a  minute  but  complete  dormant  plant.  As  the 
process  of  germination  includes  the  making  of  a  vital  connection  be- 
tween the  young  plant  and  the  soil  sufficient  to  enable  the  plant 
to  produce  green  tissue  and  support  itself,  seedage  must  also  be  sur- 
rounded by  precautions  to  insure  proper  conditions  for  germination. 
One  of  the  most  important  factors  in  transplanting  or  seeding  is  the 
selection  of  the  correct  season,  because  upon  the  successful  start  of  the 
operation  depends  the  whole  future  of  the  plant.  Plants  grown  in  pots, 
or  so  root  pruned  that  nearly  all  their  roots  may  be  moved  with  them, 
are,  of  course,  in  condition  to  be  moved  at  all  sorts  of  odd  seasons,  but 
this  latter  is  the  work  of  experts  or  trained  gardeners  and  is  not  to  be 
recommended  to  amateurs  on  account  of  the  technical  knowledge  and 
skill  required  both  during  the  planting  operation  and  in  the  way  of 
proper  after-care  and  maintenance.  This  discussion  is  confined  to 
transplanting  dormant  plants  and  to  seeding  of  lawns,  under  the  fol- 
lowing headings : 

(a)  Deciduous  Trees,  Shrubs,  and  Vines 

(b)  Evergreen  Plants   Coniferous  and  Broad-leaved) 

8 


PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  SEASONS  9 

(c)  Herbaceous  Perennials 

(d)  Lawn  Grasses 

Greenhouse  plants  and  the  propagation  of  plants  by  seeding,  ex- 
cept as  referring  to  lawn  grasses,  are  not  included  because  condi- 
tions vary  so  widely  in  the  same  locality. 

DECIDUOUS  TREES,  SHRUBS,  AND  VINES.  The  transplanting  of 
deciduous  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines  is  commonly  carried  out  during  their 
dormant  season.  It  is  possible  in  the  spring,  however,  to  carry  on 
planting  of  deciduous  woody  plants,  at  a  time  when  the  local  plants  are 
too  far  advanced  to  be  moved,  by  the  simple  expedient  of  bringing 
plants  from  a  storage  cellar  or  from  a  more  northerly  nursery  where 
they  are  still  dormant.  Again  in  the  autumn,  these  same  northerly 
grown  plants  may  be  used  to  start  planting  work  before  the  local 
plants  are  matured  and  safe  to  move.  Transplanting  seasons  are 
not  so  much  governed  by  north  and  south  latitude  as  they  are  by 
the  condition  of  the  plants,  as  explained  in  another  paragraph  under 
discussion  of  life-zones. 

The  beginning  of  the  dormant  period  for  woody  deciduous  plants 
comes  in  the  autumn  when  their  wood  is  matured  and  ripened  and  the 
leaves  start  to  fall  or  to  take  on  their  autumn  colouration.  This  occurs 
early  in  such  plants  as  lilacs,  lindens,  flowering  currants,  and  horse- 
chestnuts,  and  it  will  usually  be  found  to  occur  late  in  some  of  the 
plants  which  are  said  to  be  hard  to  move  in  the  autumn,  such  as  poplars 
and  silver  maples.  From  the  beginning  of  the  dormant  period  in  the 
fall  until  the  beginning  of  physiological  activity  in  the  spring,  de- 
ciduous plants  may  be  moved  at  any  time  that  the  ground  is  in 
proper  condition  and  the  temperature  favourable.  As  a  matter  of 
practice,  in  the  northern  states  this  work  is  suspended  entirely  during  a 
normal  winter,  for  about  four  months,  except  where  large  plants  are 
moved  with  a  frozen  ball  of  earth  about  their  roots,  because  frozen 
ground  and  snow  make  the  operation  of  transplanting  smaller  plants 
entirely  impracticable.  This  period,  longest  in  Maine  and  in  the 
section  surrounding  Minneapolis,  lessens  as  one  goes  farther  south,  until 
in  Virginia  and  Georgia  a  continuous  planting  season  extends  without 
interruption  through  the  dormant  period. 

It  was  early  learned  that  the  whole  of  North  America  could  be 
conveniently  divided  into  seven  transcontinental  belts  or  life-zones, 
based  upon  the  length  of  the  growing  season,  which  has  been  defined 


io  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

as  the  period  between  the  date  in  the  spring  when  the  normal  mean 
daily  temperature  rises  to  43  degrees  Fahr.,  or  above,  and  the  date  in 
the  autumn  when  it  falls  to  below  that  figure.  (The  reader  should  con- 
sult Bulletin  No.  io  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Division  of 
Biological  Survey,  entitled  "Life  Zones  and  Crop  Zones."  Part  III 
of  that  Bulletin  is  especially  interesting).  These  life-zones  are,  as 
noted  above,  adapted  to  plants  requiring  growing  seasons  of  similar 
length  and  temperature  range.  Thus,  if  soil  conditions,  exposure,  and 
amount  of  annual  rainfall  are  alike  in  two  distant  portions  of  a  zone 
plants  which  succeed  in  one  portion  may  be  expected  to  succeed  in  the 
other  portion.  They  may  in  any  event  be  tried  out  with  considerable 
confidence  when  all  the  conditions  are  known  to  be  the  same,  as 
described  above. 

It  now  seems  evident,  from  recently  gathered  data,  that  these 
zones  correspond  very  closely  to  belts  of  country  which  have  similar 
planting  seasons  for  dormant  woody  plants,  at  least  throughout  the 
humid  regions  east  of  the  looth  parallel  of  latitude.  By  consulting  the 
accompanying  Plate  II,  which  has  been  adapted  from  the  one  in 
the  above-mentioned  Bulletin,  and  also  the  chart  (Plate  III),  which 
shows  the  reported  length  of  planting  seasons,  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
stations  reporting  fall  into  groups  which  lie  in  respective  life-zones  as 
shown  on  the  map. 

Thus  stations  2,  3,4,  and  6,  all  of  which  lie  in  the  so-called  Transi- 
tion Zone,  including  most  of  New  England,  New  York  State,  Penn- 
sylvania, northeastern  Ohio,  the  Alleghanies  from  Pennsylvania  to 
Georgia,  southeastern  Ontario,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  southern  Minne- 
sota, North  Dakota,  and  northern  South  Dakota,  all  report  a  short 
fall  and  spring  planting  season,  divided  by  a  long  winter  season, 
during  which  ordinary  planting  work  is  impracticable.  Stations 
7,  8,  and  io  lie  in  the  northern  limits  of  the  upper  Austral  Zone  where 
they  are  influenced  by  the  Great  Lakes.  Stations  13, 14, 15,  and  18  lie 
outside  of  the  Great  Lakes  influence  in  the  same  zone,  which  includes  a 
great  territory  stretching  from  the  Coastal  Plain  westward  to  the 
Great  Plains,  and  from  the  Transition  Zone  on  the  north  to  central 
Georgia  and  northern  Texas  on  the  south,  except  for  an  arm  of  the 
Lower  Austral  which  extends  northward  along  the  Mississippi  River  to 
Cairo,  111.  The  first  three  stations,  7,  8,  and  io,  show  the  influence  of 
the  Great  Lakes  in  that  their  spring  planting  season  is  delayed,  while 
stations  13,  14,  and  15  show  a  markedly  later  date  for  stopping  trans- 


PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  SEASONS  11 

planting  in  winter  and  an  earlier  closing  date  in  the  spring,  due  to  the 
greater  length  of  the  growing  season  in  this  zone.  Station  18  has  such 
short  winter  interruptions  that  it  practically  offers  a  continuous  work- 
ing period  from  fall  to  spring.  Stations  17  and  20  lie  in  the  Lower 
Austral  Zone,  which  includes  the  Atlantic  Coastal  Plain  from  the 
Piedmont  Region  to  the  ocean  and  all  the  southern  states  south  of  the 
Upper  Austral  Zone.  The  Sacramento-Fresno  Valley  in  California 
also  is  included  in  this  zone.  These  stations,  together  with  station  19, 
which  is  probably  influenced  by  the  Japanese  Current,  and  station  21, 
which  lies  in  the  Gulf  strip  of  the  Lower  Austral,  all  report  a  continuous 
planting  season  of  about  the  same  length,  which  is  uninterrupted  by 
any  cold  weather.  Station  16  reports  a  long  fall  season  with  a  short 
interruption  and  a  short  spring  season,  while  station  22,  which  lies 
just  north  of  the  Tropical  Zone,  reports  a  short,  uninterrupted  season 
which  closes  early. 

In  the  extreme  northernmost  area,  except  that  of  Camden,  Maine, 
the  fall  planting  season  does  not  open  early  enough,  nor  does  the  spring 
season  extend  long  enough  to  offset  the  long  winter  period  of  frozen 
ground,  which  may  extend  to  five  months  in  the  Northern  Zone. 
Thus  the  total  number  of  working  planting  days  in  the  Northern  Zone 
may  be  only  70  or  80  in  an  average  year  of  not  unusual  severity  of 
winter,  while  in  the  great  central  portion  of  the  country  each  of  the 
two  seasons  may  be  as  much  as  50  days  long,  giving  a  combined  plant- 
ing season  of  about  100  working  days.  In  the  Southern  Zone,  where 
there  is  no  interruption  during  the  winter,  the  season  may  be  from  115 
to  150  or  even  160  days  long,  except  that  the  beginning  of  growth  in  the 
spring  curtails  the  season  at  that  end  when  the  Tropical  Zone  is  ap- 
proached. It  should  be  noted  that  the  farther  south  one  goes  the  more 
abruptly  the  spring  growing  season  opens  and  the  harder  it  becomes  to 
prolong  the  planting  season  by  any  of  the  expedients  mentioned  above. 
The  growing  seasons  of  the  southern  sections  of  the  United  States  open 
rapidly  and  there  is  greater  danger  in  the  operation  of  transplanting 
after  leaf  growth  has  started  than  in  the  cooler  northerly  sections  of  the 
country.  It  is  also  inadvisable  to  import  cold  storage  plants  into 
such  southerly  sections  much  after  the  time  when  local  stock  is  in 
full  leaf. 

It  is  probable  that  as  time  goes  on  much  more  detailed  and  complete 
data  will  be  published  regarding  safe  planting  seasons  for  the  different 
life-zones  of  the  country,  thus  enabling  planters  to  eliminate  nearly  all 


12  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

of  the  guesswork  which  now  exists,  when  one  is  called  upon  to  execute 
work  in  an  unfamiliar  territory. 

EVERGREEN  PLANTS  (CONIFEROUS  AND  BROAD-LEAVED).  The 
planting  seasons  for  evergreens  follow  somewhat  closely  those  for 
deciduous  plants.  It  is  probable  that  as  our  knowledge  of  broad- 
leaved  evergreens  increases,  their  planting  season  can  be  shown  to  do 
this  also.  There  are  now  about  fifty  known  species  of  broad-leaved 
evergreens  which  are  hardy  in  our  northern  climate  if  handled  properly. 
It  is  important  to  know  what  are  the  requirements  surrounding  suc- 
cessful transplanting  of  evergreens.  Probably  the  most  important 
seasonal  requirement  for  transplanting  of  evergreens  is  that  the  soil 
moisture  shall  be  plentiful  just  prior  to  the  time  of  transplanting  in 
the  location  from  which  they  are  taken.  In  other  words,  in  spite  of 
all  the  old  notions  to  the  contrary,  fall  planting  of  evergreens  should 
not  start  till  the  fall  rains  have  adequately  moistened  the  soil.  Fall 
planting  of  evergreens  can  be  successfully  done  as  late  as  any  other 
planting,  provided  the  ground  is  moist  when  it  freezes.  It  is  better  to 
wait  for  the  fall  rains  than  to  plant  too  early  and  subject  the  plants  to 
a  hot,  dry  spell  immediately  afterward.  In  the  spring,  while  it  is 
possible  to  delay  the  planting  of  evergreens  past  the  safe  date  for 
deciduous  stock,  due  to  the  fact  that  they  are  practically  always 
moved  with  a  ball  of  earth,  yet  the  best  season  is  the  earliest  possible 
one.  In  both  spring  and  fall  planting,  early  planting  has  the  advan- 
tage of  allowing  the  plant  to  start  root  growth  before  the  advent  of  the 
very  hot  weather  of  summer  and  the  drying  winds  of  winter,  which  sap 
the  moisture  content  of  the  plant  from  the  pores  of  the  persistent  leaves. 
Such  sorts  as  biota,  thuja,  and  taxus,  which  seem  to  establish  themselves 
readily,  can  probably  be  successfully  planted  later  in  the  season  than 
others  like  picea,  abies,  tsuga,  pinus — except  nigra  (austriacd),  montana 
(Mughus),  and  Strobus — and  chamfzcyparis.  Evergreens  of  the  first 
type  will  be  subjected  to  much  loss  if  not  transplanted  in  a  fully  dor- 
mant condition  immediately  prior  to  the  beginning  of  growth  in  the 
spring  or  if  transplanted  at  a  time  in  the  fall  when  root  growth  sufficient 
to  fix  the  plant  in  its  new  soil  surroundings  cannot  be  developed  be- 
cause of  the  lateness  of  the  season. 

PERENNIALS.  Planting  seasons  for  herbaceous  perennials  are 
divided  into  spring  and  autumn  in  the  North.  One  of  the  first  factors 


PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  SEASONS  13 

when  planting  older  plants  is  the  blooming  period  of  the  species 
under  consideration.  As  the  blooming  period  is  one  of  great  activity 
above  the  ground,  those  plants  which  bloom  late  in  the  season,  like 
Japanese  windflowers  and  chrysanthemums,  should  be  moved  in  the 
spring  when  they  can  make  root  growth  more  quickly  and  thus  recover 
from  the  shock.  On  the  other  hand,  those  plants  which  bloom  and 
mature  early  are  practically  dormant  in  late  summer  and  early  autumn. 
Thus,  irises  and  peonies  can  be  moved  safely  about  September  1st, 
and  will  recover  quickly  and  make  new  roots  before  cold  weather  sets 
in,  whereas  they  are  very  active  in  the  spring  and  often  do  not  recover 
from  the  shock  of  being  moved  at  that  time  unless  the  work  is  done 
very  early.  These  are  probably  the  first  sorts  fit  to  move  in  the 
autumn  season,  and  other  sorts  follow  along  as  they  mature.  The 
planting  season  for  perennials  would  open  earlier  in  the  spring  on  a 
light  soil  than  on  a  heavy  one,  both  because  the  ground  mellows 
earlier  and  because  a  heavy  soil  warms  up  more  slowly.  The  texture 
of  the  soil  is  a  factor  affecting  the  planting  season  of  perennials  more 
than  it  does  the  other  larger-rooted  plants,  and  it  is  better  to  delay 
spring  planting  until  the  soil  is  in  good  condition  to  handle  and  is 
warm.  Thus,  the  spring  perennial  season  is  likely  to  start  later  and 
last  longer  than  that  for  woody  deciduous  plants,  and  also  start  earlier 
and  stop  earlier  in  the  autumn.  Pot-grown  plants  and  seedlings  can  be 
transplanted  at  odd  seasons  whenever  the  weather  is  right,  but  it  is 
generally  best  to  wait  till  spring  for  all  young  herbaceous  plants. 
Thus  they  are  given  the  whole  growing  season  in  which  to  get  es- 
tablished. Care  should  be  taken  not  to  bring  tender  plants  out  too 
early,  before  they  have  been  hardened  off,  or  too  late,  when  the  torrid 
summer  days  will  wilt  them  down  before  they  take  root. 

LAWNS.  The  spring  seeding  season  for  lawn  grass  starts  in  the 
Lower  Austral  Zone  in  February,  about  the  middle  of  the  month,  and 
continues  to  May  ist,  but  may  be  shut  ofFby  the  advent  of  hot  weather 
as  early  as  March  ist.  As  one  goes  farther  north,  the  season  does  not 
lengthen  very  much,  but  merely  opens  later,  extending  from  about 
April  1 5th  to  June  ist.  Thus,  this  seeding  season,  to  a  great  extent, 
overlaps  the  planting  season  and  cannot  be  protracted  past  the  closing 
date  for  planting  without  great  risk  of  the  bad  effect  of  hot  weather  on 
the  young  grass.  The  autumn  season  starts  in  the  North  as  early  as 
August  ist,  and  closes  not  later  than  October  ist,  but  generally  by  the 


i4  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

1 5th  or  20th  of  September,  thus  not  overlapping  the  autumn  planting 
season  to  any  extent.  As  one  goes  southward,  the  season  again  merely 
shifts  along,  so  that,  in  the  Upper  Austral  Zone,  it  opens  about  Sep- 
tember 1 5th  and  closes  about  November  ist,  while  in  the  Lower 
Austral  it  is  pushed  along  to  October  I5th.  Here  the  practice  of 
seeding  stops,  except  for  the  use  of  English  rye  as  a  green  winter 
carpet,  and  is  superseded  by  the  practice  of  "sprigging"  or  planting 
pieces  of  Bermuda  and  St.  Augustine  grass.  This  grass  planting  is 
commonly  done  in  southern  Florida  in  June,  while  farther  north,  and 
especially  in  Alabama,  it  is  done  through  the  winter  months  so  as  to 
take  advantage  of  the  then  abundant  rains  (See  Page  59). 

Grass  seed  sown  too  early  in  the  autumn  and  not  artificially  watered 
will  generally  lie  dormant  until  the  fall  rains  start  germination,  and, 
likewise,  seed  sown  too  late  in  the  autumn  or  too  early  in  the  spring  will 
lie  dormant  until  the  ground  warms  up  sufficiently  to  start  sprouting. 
The  grass  seeding  season  is  from  the  time  the  ground  gets  warm 
enough  in  the  spring  until  it  gets  too  cold  in  the  autumn  to  start  the 
germination  process,  but  this  season  is  as  a  matter  of  practice  divided 
into  two  parts  by  the  period  in  the  summer  when  the  ground  is  too  dry 
to  start  germination  and  the  weather  is  so  hot  as  to  require  constant 
artificial  watering,  both  to  start  germination  of  the  seed  and  to  keep 
the  young  plants  alive.  It  is  also  generally  considered  wiser  not  to 
seed  so  late  in  the  autumn,  in  the  North,  that  the  young  grass  plants 
will  not  be  well  established  before  freezing  weather.  These  are  the 
factors  which  influence  the  establishment  of  the  lawn  seeding  season 
dates  diagrammatically  shown  on  the  chart  (Plate  III).  Making  lawns 
in  the  South  is  a  process  of  seeding  when  adaptable  mixtures  of  north- 
ern lawn  seed  are  used,  and  a  process  of  planting  roots  when  the  native 
Bermuda  and  St.  Augustine  grasses  are  used.  Northern  grass  is 
seeded  in  the  period  from  September  to  January.  Italian  rye  is  seeded 
from  October  to  January,  and  native  grass  roots  are  planted  as  shown 
on  the  chart  in  stations  21  and  22. 


PLANTING     SEASON 


Aoa  SEPT  OCT  Nov  DEC  JAX  FEB  MAR  APR  MAY  JOKE 


COMPILED  BY  AJ)TAYLOR.  laooEucuo  ATE_  CLEVELAND,  0 


PLATE  III.  A  chart  to  aid  in  determining  the  most  favourable  period  for 
transplanting,  and  for  seeding  of  lawns  in  various  sections  of  the  United  States. 
Note  the  long  winter  periods  of  the  Northern  Zones,  and  the  continuous  plant- 
ing seasons  of  the  Southern  Zones.  It  is  of  great  importance  to  be  able  to  plan 
ahead  and  to  order  plants  for  delivery  at  the  proper  time  for  any  section  of  the 
country.  These  are  average  seasons  resulting  from  observations  of  normal 
seasons  during  a  period  of  years.  For  supplementary  information  refer  to 
Plate  No.  II  on  page  No.  6. 


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CHAPTER  III 
PRUNING 
REASONS  FOR  PRUNING.     The  reasons  for  pruning  are: 

(1)  To  secure  a  desired  form  or  height  of  the  plant; 

(2)  To  remove  injured,  diseased,  or  dead  branches; 

(3)  To  renovate  or  rejuvenate  old  plants; 

(4)  To  maintain  a  balance  between  root  growth  and  top  growth  (as  shown  in  the 

operations  of  transplanting) ; 

(5)  To  encourage  the  production  of  an  abundance  of  flowers; 

(6)  To  encourage  the  production  of  a  few  large  flowers; 

(7)  To  improve  or  modify  the  natural  form  of  the  plant  for  some  specific  reason 

such  as  in  topiary  work  and  hedge  work. 

Pruning,  however,  is  only  a  phase  in  the  care  of  plants  and  must 
be  accompanied  by  constant  good  cultivation,  feeding,  and  management 
of  plants.  It  is  only  through  the  process  of  intelligent  pruning  that 
shrubs  especially  can  be  maintained  in  a  definite  and  natural  condi- 
tion of  growth  and  also  kept  at  a  correct  height  to  avoid  in  many 
instances  the  out-growing  or  over-powering  of  the  design  for  which 
they  were  selected  to  become  a  part.  Many  incorrect  ideas  have  be- 
come prevalent  concerning  the  process  of  pruning,  and  the  application 
of  these  incorrect  methods  often  causes  a  slowing  up  or  incorrect 
development  not  only  in  the  growing  habits  of  the  shrubs  but  in  the 
quality  and  the  quantity  of  the  flowers  produced. 

PRECAUTIONS  TO  OBSERVE.  Pruning  should  be  done  only  with  a 
definite  ideal  and  after  arranging  an  intelligent  program.  No  set 
rules  can  be  offered.  Climatic  conditions  may  cause  rules  correct  in 
one  locality  to  prove  valueless  in  another,  and  plants  of  the  same 
species  often  vary  in  their  habit  of  growth  at  different  ages,  and 
must  be  pruned  accordingly.  Pruning  should  be  entrusted  only  to 
a  careful  workman.  It  is  too  common  practice  in  pruning  to  have 
shrubs  and  trees  with  all  the  tips  lightly  snipped  off  with  regularity; 
or  to  have  trees  with  the  main  and  lateral  branches  ruthlessly  lopped 

18 


PRUNING  19 

off.  The  natural  habit  of  the  plant  should  be  known  and  this  form 
preserved  when  removing  any  wood.  This  fact  should  always  be  kept 
in  mind  except  in  the  case  of  shrubs  or  trees  which  are  to  be  trained  in 
artificial  shapes. 

RESULTS  FROM  PRUNING.  Pruning  always  arrests  but  does  not 
permanently  change  the  natural  habits  and  growth  of  a  plant.  It 
often  causes  the  plant  to  assume  temporarily  another  form  than  it 
would  naturally  assume.  Pruned  plants  constantly  struggle  to  return 
to  their  natural  habit,  and  when  pruning  has  been  undertaken  for  a 
specific  purpose  it  should  be  continued  throughout  the  life  of  the 
plant  so  long  as  that  purpose  is  desirable. 

Root  pruning  tends  to  reduce  wood  production  and  hence  to  in- 
crease fruit  and  flower  production.  Top  pruning  favours  wood  pro- 
duction and  thus  more  top  is  produced  by  the  seemingly  contrary 
process  of  cutting  it  off.  In  the  case  of  transplanted  stock  tops  are 
cut  back  to  compensate  for  the  roots  that  are  lost  in  moving.  Re- 
moval of  excess  top  growth  insures  to  the  remaining  parts  of  the  plant 
more  nourishment,  with  subsequent  better  development,  and  it  also 
decreases  the  area  of  leaf  surface  and  the  consequent  evaporation  of 
stored-up  moisture  before  the  roots  begin  functioning  in  the  new  loca- 
tion. 

TOOLS  AND  WOUND  DRESSINGS.  Pruning  shears,  pruning  knives,  and 
hand  saws  are  the  best  tools  to  use.  Pole  saws  and  hooks  should  be 
avoided  as  they  leave  ragged  wounds,  and  pole  pruners  should  be  used 
only  for  small  twigs.  Never  use  double  edge  saws  as  they  are  more 
apt,  in  the  hands  of  a  careless  workman,  to  injure  the  tree.  A  ladder 
will  be  required  for  the  larger  trees  and  a  block  and  ropes  for  removing 
limbs  that  are  near  wires  or  that  might  injure  property. 

For  dressing  wounds  gas  tar  and  liquid  asphaltum  have  proven  the 
most  satisfactory.  They  hinder  healing  the  least  of  the  common 
dressings  and  are  the  most  durable,  adhesive,  and  antiseptic.  Coal 
tar  and  pine  tar  seem  to  be  injurious  and  white  lead  apparently  has  no 
injurious  or  antiseptic  effect.  Dressings  give  only  physical  protection 
and  cannot  hasten  healing,  which  takes  place  through  the  activity  of 
the  plant  itself. 

TREES — Top   PRUNING.     Street  trees  should  be  pruned  so  that 


20  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

branches  will  not  interfere  with  pedestrians  or  vehicles.  The  roots  of 
street  trees  are  more  confined  than  those  of  other  trees  and  they  re- 
quire top  pruning  to  balance  with  the  root  system.  Pruning  should 
aim  to  preserve  the  natural  habit  of  the  trees;  but  they  should  also 
be  kept  symmetrical  in  form.  If  the  tops  become  too  thick  and  ex- 
clude too  much  light  they  should  be  thinned  out.  Main  laterals, 
however,  must  not  be  disturbed,  but  rather  the  shoots- that  spring 
from  these  main  laterals  should  be  removed. 

Specimen  trees  on  lawns  require  little  pruning  except  to  prevent 
bad  crotches  (which  if  left  might  cause  splitting),  to  shorten  branches 
which  may  affect  the  symmetry  of  the  tree,  to  remove  dead  wood,  and 
sometimes  to  remove  (as  in  the  case  of  maples  and  pin  oaks)  some  of  the 
finer  interior  branches  in  order  to  give  more  "character"  to  the  tree. 

It  is  generally  best  to  do  the  heavy  cutting  in  winter,  while  the  trees 
are  dormant.  Pruning  in  early  spring  or  summer  may  cause  the 
tree  to  "bleed,"  with  a  consequent  check  to  the  root  system  from  the 
loss  of  food.  This  is  especially  true  of  maples.  One  advantage,  how- 
ever, of  spring  or  summer  trimming  is  that  the  tree  will  recover  more 
quickly  and  start  to  heal  the  wound,  which  would  be  impossible  during 
the  winter  season.  If  trees  are  pruned  in  winter  the  "shaping  up"  and 
removal  of  small  pieces  of  dead  wood  should  be  done  after  the  leaves 
appear  at  which  time  symmetry  can  be  better  judged  and  all  dead 
branches  can  be  more  easily  discovered.  To  assure  the  least  possible 
injury  from  exposure  to  climatic  conditions  winter  pruning,  if  neces- 
sary, should  be  delayed  until  the  danger  from  the  more  severe  winter 
conditions  is  past. 

Broken  and  diseased  limbs  must  always  be  removed,  and  secondary 
growth  and  suckers  cut,  to  open  the  centre  of  the  tree  to  the  sun  and 
air.  When  limbs  are  pruned  they  should  be  cut  back  to  a  bud  that  will 
grow  outward. 

When  larger  branches  are  entirely  removed,  the  cut  should 
be  made  at  the  base  of  the  branch  and  parallel  to  the  tree  trunk. 
No  stump  at  all  should  be  left,  and  care  should  first  be  taken  to  under- 
cut amply  on  all  heavy  limbs  so  that  when  the  cut  on  the  upper  side  is 
completed  the  branch  will  not  split  the  bark  from  the  trunk.  All 
other  cuts,  such  as  removing  portions  of  branches,  should  be  made 
perpendicular  to  the  axis  of  the  branch  which  is  being  shortened.  The 
cut  should  always  be  clean,  with  no  ragged  edges  left  (See  Plate  V). 

Never  cut  back  the  leader  on  trees  that  are  excurrent,  such  as  oaks, 


PLATE  IV.  The  hedge  which  may  look  unkept,  and  ragged  if  not  pruned, 
will  in  the  hands  of  the  skilled  gardener  assume  almost  any  degree  of  refined 
outline.  These  photographs  show  one  of  our  most  desirable  hedge  plants, 
the  Japanese  privet  (Ligustrum  ibota).  (See  Chapter  III) 


PRUNING  21 

birches,  spruces,  and  sugar  maples.  If  the  leader  is  killed  it  is  often 
possible  to  train  the  best  lateral  available  as  a  substitute.  This  may 
be  done  by  binding  the  lateral  to  a  pole  and  tying  with  raffia. 

If  the  tree  is  weakened  or  is  dying,  severe  pruning  will  often  aid  in 
offsetting  the  trouble  and  may  help  the  tree  to  recover  its  vigour. 
Many  trees  and  shrubs,  as  poplars,  soft  maples,  the  tree  of  heaven, 
box  elders,  hydrangeas,  and  sumacs  will  stand  very  heavy  pruning  and 
recover  rapidly.  Oaks,  elms,  and  flowering  dogwoods  should  be  pruned 
only  as  corrective  measures  and  not  to  check  growth. 

During  the  progress  of  construction  work  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
fine  trees  or  shrubs  some  protection  should  be  afforded,  either  by  the 
erection  of  a  stout  fence  or  a  stout  wooden  framework. 

ROOT  PRUNING.  Root  pruning  serves  to  check  the  growth  of  a  tree 
and  to  encourage  lateral  or  secondary  growth  of  the  roots.  When 
a  plant  has  a  slow  or  a  weak-growing  top  grafted  upon  a  vigor- 
ous root  stock,  root  pruning  is  often  used  advantageously  to  stop 
too  great  a  growth  of  the  stock.  Root  pruning  should  be  done  before 
the  weather  becomes  too  cold  in  the  fall.  If  this  pruning  is  delayed  till 
very  late  no  start  in  healing  the  cuts  will  be  made  before  spring,  and 
meanwhile  decay  will  set  in.  The  process  of  root  pruning  to  assist  in 
the  successful  transplanting  of  trees  is  effected  by  excavating  a  narrow 
trench  around  the  tree  encircling  a  ball  of  earth  (Usually  six  to  eight 
feet  in  diameter)  (See  Plate  VI-C-i)  which  can  be  handled  with  a  tree 
machine.  In  this  way  one-half  to  two-thirds  of  the  large  roots  are 
severed.  The  trench  is  filled  with  loam,  and  during  the  remainder  of 
the  growing  season  a  mass  of  new  fibrous  roots  form,  which  readily 
come  to  the  aid  of  the  tree  when  transplanted  to  its  new  location 
(See  Planting  and  Transplanting,  Page  42). 

All  trees  should  be  top  pruned  when  transplanted.  This  is  done  to 
offset  the  loss  of  root  system  by  removing  a  portion  of  the  top.  A 
general  rule  is  to  remove  four-fifths  of  the  current  year's  growth  and 
one-eighth  of  the  older  branches.  Do  not  cut  back  main  laterals  or 
leaders  so  as  to  leave  large  stubs,  for  with  such  pruning  the  stubs  will 
rot  and  spoil  the  tree. 

Trees  with  ample  fibrous  roots,  such  as  maples  and  elms,  are  easier 
to  move  successfully  than  trees  with  few  roots,  or  with  tap  roots,  such 
as  magnolias,  tulips,  gums,  and  nut  trees.  It  is  therefore  necessary  to 
prune  the  tops  more  heavily  on  transplanted  stock  with  sparse  root 


22  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

systems.  On  all  transplanted  stock  the  roots  should  be  pruned  to  re- 
move diseased,  dead,  or  bruised  portions.  In  older  plants  tap  roots 
may  be  shortened  if  the  cutting  is  done  judiciously.  Many  trees, 
especially  older  trees,  are  moved  more  safely  in  the  winter  if  they  are 
root  pruned  not  later  than  the  last  of  the  previous  July.  In  trans- 
planting fine  old  specimens  of  beech  and  boxwood  it  is  sometimes 
necessary,  and  always  advisable,  to  root  prune  the  trees  for  two 
seasons  prior  to  the  time  of  transplanting,  in  order  to  insure  the  greatest 
possible  success. 

/  HEDGES.  Most  hedge  plants,  such  as  the  Japanese  barberry 
and  the  privet,  if  allowed  to  grow  as  specimen  plants  unrestrained 
by  severe  pruning,  will  produce  a  considerable  quantity  of  flowers 
and  also  of  fruit.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  Japanese  barberry, 
which  has  interesting  fruit.  If  these  plants  are  grown  in  hedges, 
which  are  subject  to  frequent  and  severe  trimming  at  least  three  or 
four  times  during  the  growing  season,  then  all  of  the  flowers  are  surely 
removed  and  if  the  flowers  are  not  removed,  then  at  the  time  of  the 
next  pruning  the  fruit  is  removed,  therefore  very  few  of  the  hedges  of 
this  character  ever  produce  any  fruit.  The  only  way  in  which  to 
have  a  hedge  such  as  a  Japanese  barberry  hedge,  with  a  quantity  of 
fruit  upon  it,  is  to  prune  the  hedge  during  the  very  late  winter  months 
or  early  spring  months  and  not  to  prune  it  again  until  after  the  fruiting 
season  is  over. 

Hedges  which  are  allowed  to  grow  naturally  require  but  little  prun- 
ing, except  the  removal  of  dead  and  diseased  wood  and  the  checking  of 
any  portion  that  becomes  too  rampant  or  destroys  symmetry.  It 
often  becomes  desirable  in  the  development  of  hedge  plants  to  keep 
the  growth  within  certain  well-defined  limits  of  height,  after  the  plants 
have  become  a  few  years  old.  This  requires  judicious  pruning,  con- 
sisting of  the  removal  of  many  of  the  older  branches  each  year,  but 
never  a  heavy  shearing  which  cuts  the  entire  top  of  the  plant,  regard- 
less of  the  size  or  age  of  the  branches,  to  a  fixed  height. 

Hedges  which  are  trimmed  formally  should  be  kept  uniform  in  - 
height  and  thickness.  One  late  winter  and  two  or  three  summer  prun- 
ings  during  the  growing  season  are  better  than  one  heavy  pruning 
yearly.  Hedges  will  do  best  if  kept  in  a  flattened  ovoid  shape  with  the 
widest  part  at  the  base  (Plate  V).  In  this  way  all  the  leaf  surface 
will  receive  a  more  nearly  equal  portion  of  light,  and  leaves  will  grow 


PRUNING  23 

down  to  the  ground.  It  is  preferable  to  have  the  top  rounded  rather 
than  flat.  Remember  that  a  portion  of  the  current  year's  growth 
must  be  left  on  the  plants  when  pruning. 

If  privet  hedges  are  winter-killed  partially  or  wholly,  or  girdled  by 
animals,  they  should  be  cut  back  to  four  or  six  inches  above  the  ground. 
A  hedge,  when  newly  planted,  should  be  cut  back  severely,  often  to 
within  twelve  inches  of  the  ground.  This  is  necessary  in  order  to  secure 
thick  growth  at  the  base. 

TOPIARY  EFFECTS.  The  operation  of  pruning  to  produce  topiary 
effects  is  one  that  requires  much  more  careful  attention  and  more 
frequent  pruning  than  almost  any  other  type  of  pruning  work,  with 
the  exception  of  possibly  some  hedges  such  as  privet  hedges,  where 
it  is  necessary  to  maintain  a  constant,  even  effect.  The  yew  and  box- 
wood which  are  used  for  the  most  permanent  effects  in  topiary  work 
can  be  pruned  to  best  advantage  during  the  latter  part  of  June  and  the 
early  part  of  July,  at  which  time  all  the  new  growth  should  be  cut  back 
as  far  as  the  older  growth,  which  consists  of  darker  green  leaves.  Thiss 
allows  opportunity  for  new  shoots  to  develop  within  the  old  growth 
and  thicken  the  mass.  Many  plants  used  for  such  topiary  effects  as 
ovals,  spheres,  pyramids,  cones,  spirals,  etc.,  can  be  given  a  thorough 
trimming  when  the  trees  are  young.  The  subsequent  growth  (if  the 
loose-growing  tips  are  kept  cut  back)  will  continue  to  increase  the 
dimensions  of  these  designs  in  an  interesting  way.  The  key  to 
successful  topiary  effects  is  the  accurate  shape  to  which  the  tree  is 
trimmed  when  the  first  pruning  work  on  the  specimen  is  undertaken. 

SHRUBS.  Ornamental  flowering  shrubs  may  be  pruned  at  any 
season  of  the  year  if  no  consideration  is  given  to  the  question  of 
flower  production.  Wounds  made  by  pruning  will  heal,  however, 
better  during  the  growing  season.  Late  summer  pruning  will  some- 
times encourage  a  new  and  vigorous  growth  which  does  not  thoroughly 
ripen  during  the  late  summer  and  fall  months,  and  is  consequently 
exposed  to  the  danger  of  winter-killing.  Late  summer  pruning  should 
accordingly  not  be  practised  especially  on  semi-hardy  plants.  During 
wet  seasons,  and  when  plants  are  over-supplied  with  food,  summer 
pruning  may  be  resorted  to,  in  order  to  restrain  succulent  and  weak 
growth. 

Many  shrubs  possess  a  greater  or  less  value  for  their  flowering  habits. 


The  following  are  a  series  of  memorandums  explanatory  of  the 
drawings  shown  on  Plate  No.  V,  illustrating  various  methods  of 
pruning  trees  and  shrubs. 

A 

A  large,  overgrown,  and  "leggy"  shrub  with  some  new  long  shoots  growing  from 
the  base  of  the  plant.  In  such  overgrown  plants  as  these  all  of  the  wood  which 
produces  flowers  is  in  the  top  branches  at  the  ends  of  the  old  wood  and  the  shrub 
presents  a  very  bare  effect  at  its  base. 

A-l 

The  same  shrub  as  shown  under  "A",  but  pruned  for  the  purpose  of  allowing 
new  shoots  to  develop  from  the  base  of  the  shrub  and  to  permit  a  new  top  at  a 
normal  height,  thus  renovating  the  entire  shrub  during  a  period  of  two  or  three 
years. 

A-2 

The  same  shrub  as  in  "A",  showing  its  development  after  proper  pruning.  This 
produces  new  flowering  wood  and  a  more  natural  and  even  development  of  the 
entire  shrub,  which  insures  a  better  bloom  and  a  more  satisfactory  effect. 

A-3 

The  same  shrub  as  under  "A",  but  incorrectly  pruned  or  "sheared"  in  accordance 
with  the  method  of  unintelligently  removing  all  wood,  new  and  old,  at  a  uniform 
height,  irrespective  of  flowering  habits  or  other  habits  of  growth  of  the  shrub. 

The  same  shrub  as  under  "A",  showing  the  development  in  its  growth  after  in- 
correct pruning  (A-3).  Note  that  most  of  the  new  growth  has  developed  on  the 
old  wood,  producing  a  broom  effect  at  the  top  and  a  "leggy"  condition  at  the 
base  of  the  shrub.  Such  plants  cannot  grow  normally  or  produce  normal  flower 
effects. 

8-1 

This  illustration  shows  the  correct  method  of  pruning  hybrid  tea  roses  in  order 

to  produce  large  individual  blooms.  The  portion  in  light  lines  shows  the  branches 
to  be  removed. 

B-2 

This  illustration  shows  the  hybrid  tea  rose  pruned  to  produce  an  abundance  of 
flowers  but  not  necessarily  large  individual  blooms.     The  portion  in  light  lines 
shows  the  branches  to  be  removed. 
c-i 

This  illustration  shows  the  correct  series  of  cuts  to  be  made  in  removing  large 
branches  at  a  point  close  to  the  trunk  of  the  trees  (i  is  the  first  cut  to  be  made, 
or  the  under  cut.  2  is  the  second  cut  to  be  made,  or  the  upper  cut.  3  is  the 
final  cut  to  be  made,  or  the  close  cut).  Note  also  the  healing  over  of  a  correctly 
made  cut. 

C-2 

This  illustration  shows  the  incorrect  method  of  making  a  cut  in  one  operation, 
frequently  causing  the  splitting  down  of  the  branch.  Note  also  the  attempt  to 
heal  an  incorrect  cut,  which  was  not  made  sufficiently  close  to  the  trunk.  The 
bark  on  such  cuts  dies  back  to  the  trunk  and  the  new  healing  bark  cannot  grow 
over  the  wound. 

DltoDS 

Shows  correct  and  incorrect  methods  of  shearing  or  pruning  hedges. 

D-l  to  D-3 

Shows  the  correct  method  known  as  the  ovoid  cross  section  (D-i);  the  truncated 
cross  section  (D-2);  and  the  rectangular  cross  section  (D-3).  As  a  result  of  each 
of  these  methods  of  pruning  the  hedge  produces  a  solid  foliage  effect  at  its  base. 

U-4andD-5 

These  illustrate  incorrect  methods  of  pruning  known  as  the  inverted  pyramidal 
cross  section  and  the  inverted  cone  cross  section,  both  of  which  methods  resulting 
in  a  wide  top  and  a  narrow  base  in  the  cross  section  of  the  hedge  produce  a  bare 
effect  at  the  base  and  give  little  foliage. 

24 


-Bl- 


-B2- 


-C2- 


-Dl- 


-D2- 


D3- 


—  D4- 


-Ds 


PLATE  V.  The  correct  pruning  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  a  great  factor  in  the 
successful  maintenance  of  landscape  plantings.  These  diagrammatic  drawings, 
together  with  the  explanations  on  the  opposite  page,  illustrate  correct  and  in- 
correct methods  of  pruning. 


PRUNING  25 

There  are  two  types  of  shrubs  (Chapter  XLII-A,  Page  296),  one  of  which 
is  the  spring  or  early-flowering  shrubs,  such  as  Van  Houtte's  spirea, 
weigela,  snowball,  and  most  golden-bells,  producing  flowers  on  wood 
formed  during  the  previous  year.  The  other  type  consists  of  plants 
which  produce  flowers  during  the  late  summer  and  fall  on  the  growth 
of  the  current  year.  This  type  includes  the  rose  of  Sharon,  the 
hydrangea,  and  the  common  elder.  The  general  rule  for  the  pruning 
of  flowering  trees  and  shrubs,  in  order  to  encourage  the  development  of 
more  flowers,  is  to  prune  soon  after  flowering.  Unless  one  has  a  defi- 
nite knowledge  of  shrubs,  this  rule  should  be  applied  literally.  The 
other  rule  is  that  spring-flowering  shrubs  should  be  pruned  in  the  early 
summer  immediately  after  they  are  through  flowering,  and  the  summer- 
flowering  shrubs  can  be  pruned  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  late 
winter  and  early  spring  before  growth  has  commenced,  to  avoid  the 
possibilities  of  winter-killing.  Lilacs  also  should  be  pruned  during 
the  early  part  of  the  summer  and  shortly  after  the  blooming  period  is 
complete  and  in  every  instance  before  the  seed  pods  have  formed. 

Spring-blooming  plants  should  be  pruned  within  a  week  after  the 
blossoms  fall  to  encourage  a  summer  growth  of  budded  wood  which 
will  be  well  ripened  by  winter. 

Summer-blooming  plants  may  be  pruned  either  in  the  late  summer 
or  just  before  spring  growth  begins,  to  force  a  new  spring  growth 
upon  which  summer  flowers  appear.  Late  summer  pruning  is  never 
advisable.  Some  shrubs,  such  as  lilacs,  flowering  dogwoods^  and 
rhododendrons  should  not  be  pruned  except  to  remove  dead  and 
diseased  branches,  or  branches  that  interfere  with  the  development 
of  the  plants.  Deciduous  shrubs  of  which  the  wood  has  become  in- 
curably affected  with  scale  may,  however,  be  revivified  by  being 
cut  down  to  the  ground.  In  the  case  of  plants  that  form  ornamental 
fruit  the  branches  should  not  be  cut  back  far,  nor  the  pruning  done 
after  the  fruit  buds  have  formed. 

Any  dead  or  dying  wood  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  noticed. 
In  the  case  of  summer-blooming  shrubs  pruning  is  best  done  in  the 
early  spring  after  the  leaves  appear,  in  order  to  remove  winter-killed 

J*PS' 

Old  wood  should  be  cut  out  to  prevent  shrubs  from  getting  "leggy, 

i.  e.,  having  all  top  with  no  foliage  around  the  base.  In  removing  old 
wood,  cut  to  the  base  of  the  plant;  otherwise  sprouts  will  shoot  up  from 
stumps  and  fail  as  the  latter  decay.  New  growth  should  always  be 


26  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

encouraged  from  the  roots.  Cutting  back  all  branches,  or  giving 
shrubs  an  even  shearing  should  be  avoided,  as  strong  shoots  will 
develop  and  cause  a  too  succulent  and  unbalanced  top  growth  (See 
Plate  V).  With  transplanted  stock  a  general  rule  is  to  remove 
about  one-foXirth  of  the  wood,  to  offset  the  loss  of  roots.  Root  pruning 
for  shrubs  is  similar  to 'that  of  trees  (See  Chapter  on  "Planting  and 
Transplanting  ") . 

Old  shrubs  and  overgrown  material  should  be  thinned  out  by  re- 
moving some  branches  to  the  base  of  the  plant.  This  will  allow  sun 
and  air  to  reach  the  base  of  the  plant  and  encourage  growth  at  .the 
bottom.  The  dogwoods,  globe  flowers,  and  similar  shrubs  lose  the 
bright  colour  of  their  wood  as  they  age.  The  old  wood  should  be 
removed  to  encourage  new  growth. 

EVERGREENS.  Evergreens  need  but  little  pruning.  The  pruning 
of  evergreens  is  done  to  secure  formal  shapes,  to  thicken  growth, 
or  to  preserve  symmetry.  Tips  of  branches  should  be  sheared  in 
the  spring  just  before  they  start  growing.  Begin  pruning  a  year 
after  planting  and  continue  each  succeeding  year.  Evergreens  dry 
out  more  rapidly  than  deciduous  growth  and  as  they  make  much 
growth  in  the  early  spring,  wounds  from  spring  cutting  heal  rapidly. 
April  is  a  good  month  for  this  work  in  the  northern  states.  Pinch- 
ing back  of  buds  at  any  time  in  order  to  thicken  the  growth  is  all 
the  pruning  that  most  evergreens  require.  Shearing  for  formal 
shapes  must'be  done  carefully  and  a  portion  of  the  past  season's  growth 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  plants.  Many  evergreens  such  as  the  plume- 
shaped  cypress.,  Lawson's  cypress,  and  the  arborvitae  will  respond  to 
severe  pruning  operations.  These  plants  grow  vigorously  under  ideal 
conditions  and  during  the  growing  season  it  is  not  infrequent  that  they 
require  pruning  two  or  three  times.  Rarely  are  evergreens  pruned 
for  the  purpose  of  removing  branches  which  are  crowding,  and  only 
under  very  abnormal  conditions  is  it  necessary  to  prune  evergreens 
in  order  to  remove  dead  or  diseased  branches. 

RHODODENDRONS.  The  pruning  of  rhododendrons,  as  a  rule,  is 
unsatisfactory,  particularly  if  the  wood  is  old.  If  the  plant  is  very 
thrifty,  and  in  a  damp,  sheltered  position,  fair  success  may  be  had. 
Not  more  than  one-half  of  a  plant  should  be  pruned  in  any  one  year 
and  the  other  part  in  the  succeeding  year.  It  should  be  done  early 


PRUNING  27 

in  the  spring  and  the  bark  of  the  stumps  well  moistened  at  least  twice 
daily  to  assist  the  development  and  breaking  through  of  the  dormant 
leaf  buds.  Cuts  should  be  made  just  above  a  whorl  of  leaves  because 
adventitious  buds  will  appear  there  more  promptly  than  elsewhere. 
If  the  plants  are  not  thrifty  it  might  be  advisable  to  cut  half  of  the 
stalks  to  the  ground,  using  care  not  to  decrease,  more  than  is  necessary, 
the  beauty  of  the  plants.  New  shoots  will  be  developed  from  the 
ground,  and  when  these  reach  a  satisfactory  height,  repeat  the  process 
with  the  remaining  stalks.  The  root  system  will  also  be  benefited 
by  such  treatment. 

Pruning  is  seldom  resorted  to  with  rhododendrons  in  order  to  pro- 
duce increased  size  and  quantity  of  flowers.  As  an  added  precaution 
for  the  successful  development  of  rhododendrons  all  the  seed  pods 
should  be  removed  from  the  finer  and  less  vigorous  growing  plants 
immediately  after  the  flowering  period  is  complete  and  before  any 
of  the  plant  energy  has  been  expended  in  the  development  and  ripen- 
ing of  the  seed  pods,  thus  diverting  this  energy  into  the  production  of 
new  flower  buds  instead  of  into  the  production  of  useless  seed  pods. 

VINES.  Vines  are  pruned  only  to  remove  dead  wood  and  strag- 
gling growth.  Prune  vines  after  blooming,  except  vines  with  orna- 
mental fruit;  the  latter  should  be  cut  back  severely  in  the  spring, 
because  they  fruit  on  the  new  wood. 

ROSES.  Prune  hybrid  perpetual  and  most  other  hardy  roses  in 
April  when  sap  begins  to  flow  and  buds  start  to  swell.  At  this  time 
dead  wood  may  be  most  easily  distinguished  and  mulch  should  not 
be  disturbed  earlier.  Memorial  roses  and  rambler  roses  should  be 
pruned  just  after  the  flowering  season  to  produce  wood  for  the  next 
year's  bloom. 

Other  things  being  equal,  the  pruning  determines  the  quantity  and 
size  of  flowers.  Severe  pruning  will  produce  the  largest  and  best 
flowers;  less  severe  pruning  is  productive  of  a  large  crop  of  average 
flowers;  medium  pruning  produces  a  large  crop  of  smaller  blooms 
(Plate  V,  Page  24). 

For  severe  pruning,  thin  out  to  the  base  all  but  three  to  five  shoots, 
with  two  to  three  buds  on  each  shoot.  Less  severe  pruning  requires 
the  same  number  of  shoots  to  be  cut  back  to  from  five  to  ten  buds. 
For  medium  pruning,  leave  four  to  seven  shoots  and  cut  each  back  to 


28  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

one-half  of  its  height.  Always  cut  the  stem  one-fourth  to  one-half 
inch  immediately  above  a  strong  bud  that  points  out  from  the  centre  of 
the  plant.  When  a  plant  has  been  pruned  the  shoots  should  be 
left  as  nearly  as  possible  equi-distant  from  each  other  and  arranged 
around  the  plant,  so  that  it  presents  a  well-balanced  appearance  on  all 
sides  with  an  uncrowded  centre.  With  some  hybrid  perpetuals  and 
climbers,  if  considerable  length  of  stem  is  cut  with  the  flowers,  the 
plants  can  be  induced  to  make  some  autumn  bloom.  Seeds  should 
never  be  permitted  to  ripen  on  rose  bushes,  as  the  effect  of  this  is 
extremely  weakening  to  the  plant. 

When  pruning  hybrid  perpetual  roses  remove  branches  that  cross, 
and  all  weak  wood  also.  Cut  back  strong  canes  to  six  buds,  the  top 
bud  pointing  outward.  For  a  big  outdoor  display  leave  two-thirds 
of  the  length  of  four  to  seven  canes.  Sometimes  it  is  feasible  to  cut 
away  part  of  the  tops  in  autumn  so  that  the  fibrous  roots  will  not  be 
loosened  or  broken  by  the  force  of  winter  winds  swaying  the  plants. 

Hybrid  teas  and  teas  must  be  cut  to  the  surface  of  the  soil,  if  neces- 
sary, in  order  to  cut  to  live  wood.  However,  as  much  or  more  wood 
should  be  left  as  on  hybrid  perpetuals,  if  possible.  Weak  growers 
should  be  cut  back  farther  than  strong  growers. 

Rugosas,  bourbons,  chinas,  austrian  briers,  ramblers,  and  wich- 
uraianas  need  but  little  pruning.  Thin  out  and  cut  back  only  a  few 
inches  of  the  stems.  Remove  wood  to  the  base  of  the  plant  as  it  be- 
comes old. 

Climbing  and  pillar  roses  need  only  one-third  to  one-fifth  of  the  wood 
removed.  All  old  wood  should  be  removed  about  once  in  three  years. 
In  autumn  any  unusually  long  canes  should  be  cut  back  slightly  and 
tied  up. 

When  rose  blooms  are  cut  from  the  plant  the  finest  and  largest 
blooms  follow  if  only  one  bud  is  left  to  the  branch. 


CHAPTER  IV 
PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING 

REASONS  FOR  TRANSPLANTING.  Transplanting,  in  its  general  defini- 
tion, is  the  operation  of  taking  a  plant  up  from  the  soil  and  planting 
it  again  in  a  new  location,  where  it  is  expected  to  continue  normal 
growth.  The  term  "plant"  is  applied  to  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  peren- 
nials, and  annuals.  Correct  transplanting  implies  that  a  plant  in  its 
new  position  should  be  left  in  proper  posture,  and  firmly  imbedded  in 
good  soil.  In  addition  to  placing  plants  in  new  and  permanent  loca- 
tions to  have  them  more  effective,  or  where  they  may  develop  to  better 
advantage,  it  is  often  necessary  to  move  plants  from  masses  in  order  to 
prevent  crowding  and  to  provide  more  space  for  the  remaining  plants  to 
develop.  This  is  true  especially  with  nursery-grown  stock,  and  in 
plantations  also  which  are  made  dense  at  the  outset  in  order  to  pro- 
duce an  immediate  effect. 

SPACING  OF  PLANTS.  One  of  the  important  factors  in  successful 
plantings  is  the  correct  spacing  of  plants  at  the  time  of  transplanting. 
Every  plant  requires  space  in  which  to  develop  normally.  The  result 
of  close  planting  is  eventually  an  overcrowded  condition  and  a  lack  of 
healthy,  well-developed  foliage,  flowers,  and  fruit.  The  more  vigorous 
specimens  crowd  out  the  weaker  ones  and  unless  a  "thinning-out" 
process  is  adopted,  the  mass  effect  becomes  quite  uneven  and  ragged. 

The  reason  for  most  overcrowded  plantings  is  the  desire  on  the  part 
of  the  designer  to  obtain  an  immediate  effect.  Too  often  our  im- 
patience and  unwillingness  to  wait  until  plants  mature  and  "fill 
out,"  develops  many  errors.  Three  years  after  transplanting  is  the 
normal  period  required  for  shrubs,  two  years  for  perennials,  and  eight 
to  ten  years  for  average  nursery-grown  trees  to  make  the  necessary 
growth  to  overcome  the  bare  effect  of  the  border  or  row  of  trees  when 
planted  in  small  sizes. 

The  question  often  arises  as  to  whether  or  not  it  is  better  to  use 
average-sized  nursery  stock  (three  to  four-year-old  stock)  or  to  use 

29 


30  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

large  overgrown  shrubs.  Many  people  feel  that  an  immediate  effect  is 
desirable  and  therefore  the  larger  the  shrubs  that  are  used  the  more 
quickly  the  effect  will  be  produced.  The  author  has  had  considerable 
experience  with  both  types  of  plantings.  The  nursery  shrub  will  re- 
quire anywhere  from  two  to  four  years  under  normal  spacing  before 
it  will  develop  sufficiently  to  produce  the  desired  effect  in  the  mass 
planting.  On  the  other  hand,  the  large,  overgrown  shrub  which  will 
produce  an  immediate  effect  generally  requires  severe  pruning  and 
cutting  back  in  order  to  produce  any  growth  which  will  fill  the  plant 
at  the  bottom  and  the  top.  This  renovating  process  requires  from  two 
to  three  years.  Therefore  at  the  end  of  this  period  the  general  effect 
of  the  plantation  is  about  the  same  whether  large,  overgrown  shrubs 
are  used  or  whether  the  smaller  nursery  specimens  are  used. 

The  correct  method  to  adopt  in  general  planting  work  is  to  allow 
sufficient  space  between  plants  for  the  normal  development  of  each. 
Planting  too  close,  although  providing  a  more  finished  appearance 
during  the  first  one  or  two  seasons,  is  far  more  undesirable  than  liberal 
spacing.  It  is  not  practicable  to  lay  down  a  well-defined  rule  for 
spacing  plants.  The  planter  can  best  be  guided  by  the  knowledge 
that  he  is  seeking  an  immediate  mass  effect  of  foliage,  requiring  close 
spacing,  or  that  he  will  wait  during  a  proper  period  before  expecting 
to  see  the  plantation  well  developed.  See  list  re  "Spacing  of  Plants" 
which  follows. 

SPACING  OF  PLANTS 

THE  FOLLOWING  IS  A  TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  AS  A  GUIDE  IN  TRANSPLANTING 


PURPOSE 

TYPICAL  PLANTS 

CLOSE 
PLANTING 

NORMAL 
DISTANCE 

Alices  —  Trees 

Open 

Thorns 

2ft. 

3ft. 

Pleached 

European  Cork-barked  Maple 

I  ft. 

lift. 

Annuals 

Carpet  Bedding 

Alternanthera 

3  in. 

6  in. 

Design  Bedding 
Edgings 

Snapdragons 

Alyssum 

6  in. 
4  in. 

12  in. 
6  in. 

Broad-leaved  Evergreens 

Great  Laurel 

3ft- 

5ft. 

Hybrid  Rhododendrons 

2^  ft. 

3Ht. 

Mountain  Laurel 

2ft. 

3ft. 

Mountain  Fetterbush 

lift. 

Japanese  Azaleas 

lift. 

2ft. 

PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING 

SPACING  OF  PLANTS— Continued 


PURPOSE 

TYPICAL  PLANTS 

CLOSE 
PLANTING 

NORMAL 
DISTANCE 

Bulbs  and  Tubers 

Hyacinths 

4  in. 

6  in. 

Tulips 

4  in. 

6  in. 

Narcissi 

4  in. 

6  in. 

Crocus 

2  in. 

3  jn. 

Squills 

3  in. 

4  in. 

Chionodoxas 

2  in. 

Snowdrops 

2  in. 

Grape  Hyacinths 

3  in. 

Anemones                        . 

4  in. 

6  in. 

Bulbous  Irises 

4  in. 

Lilies 

12  in. 

1  8  in. 

Gladioli 

2  in. 

4  in. 

Dahlias 

2  ft. 

3ft. 

Bush  Fruits 

Currants 

4ft. 

6ft. 

Gooseberries 

4  ft. 

6ft. 

Red  Raspberries 

3ft. 

5ft. 

Black  Raspberries 

4ft. 

6ft. 

Blackberries 

4  ft. 

6ft. 

Dewberries 

4  ft. 

6ft. 

Ground  Cover 

Deciduous  Vines 

Hall's  Honeysuckle 

i  ft. 

2ft. 

Evergreens 

Japanese  Spurge 

6  in. 

9  to  12  in. 

Perennials 

Moss  Pink 

9  in. 

12  in. 

Hedges 

Low  Sheared 

Japanese  Privet 

Double  Row 

(staggered) 

10  in. 

12  in. 

Single  Row 

8  in. 

10  to  12  in. 

High  and  Wide 

Beech 

life 

2ft. 

Herbaceous  Perennials 

Edgings 

Carpathian  Harebell 

4  in. 

6  in. 

Low 

Gold  Tuft 

9  in. 

12  in. 

Medium 

Phloxes 

12  in. 

15  in. 

Spreading 

Peonies 

1  8  in. 

2%  to  3  ft. 

Tall 

Larkspurs 

12  in. 

1  8  in. 

Tall  Slender 

Chimney  Bellflower 

12  in. 

15  in. 

Kitchen  Garden 

Strawberries 

lift. 

2ft. 

Asparagus 

l|ft. 

3ft. 

Roses 

t 

Garden 

Bush  Roses 

2ft. 

2%  ft. 

Garden 

Hybrid  Perpetual 

2ft. 

2$  ft. 

Garden 

Hybrid  Tea 

1  8  in. 

2ft. 

Garden 

Polyantha 

9  in. 

12  in. 

On  embankments 

Dorothy  Perkins 

2!  ft. 

3  to  4  ft. 

On  fences 

Tausendschoen 

8ft. 

10  to  I$ft. 

THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

SPACING  OF  PLANTS— Continued 


PURPOSE 

TYPICAL  PLANTS 

CLOSE 
PLANTING 

NORMAL 
DISTANCE 

Shrubs  in  Masses 

Large 

Morrow's  Honeysuckle 

3ft. 

4  to  5  ft. 

Low 

Japanese  Barberry 

2ft. 

2^  ft. 

Medium 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

if  ft 

3  to  4  ft. 

Street  Trees 

Large 

Elms 

30  ft. 

50  ft. 

Medium 

Sugar  Maple 

25  ft. 

40  ft. 

Small 

Pin  Oak 

25  ft. 

35  ft- 

Trees 

Fruit  trees 

Standard  Apples 

30  ft. 

40  ft. 

Dwarf  Apples 

8ft. 

12  ft. 

Standard  Peass 

i6ft. 

20  ft. 

Dwarf  Pears 

8ft. 

10  ft. 

Plums 

i6ft. 

20  ft. 

Peaches 

i6ft. 

20  ft. 

Apricots 

i6ft. 

20  ft. 

Sweet  Cherries 

i6ft. 

24  ft. 

Sour  Cherries 

i6ft. 

20  ft. 

Quinces 

10  ft. 

12  ft. 

Groves 

Oaks 

20  ft. 

25  to  35  ft. 

Lawn  specimens 

Purple  Beech 

45  ft. 

60  ft. 

Vine  (fruit) 

- 

Grapes 

8ft. 

10  ft. 

Vines 

Climbers  on  walls 

Boston  Ivy 

8ft. 

12  ft. 

On  embankments 

Hall's  Honeysuckle 

a|  ft. 

sift. 

Windbreaks  (trees) 

Hornbeams 

5  ft. 

8ft. 

Spruces 

8ft. 

12  ft. 

CONDITIONS  FOR  TRANSPLANTING.  It  is  better  to  transplant  stock 
on  a  dull,  moist  day,  rather  than  on  a  bright,  sunny  day,  because  the 
planter  needs  to  give  less  attention  to  the  drying  out  and  consequent 
injury  to  fibrous  root  growth.  The  most  ideal  weather  for  moving 
plants  is  a  day  when  a  cloudy  condition  exists  and  when  there  is  ample 
moisture  in  the  air.  Avoid  bright,  sunny,  dry  days  on  which  to 
do  transplanting,  unless  plenty  of  water  is  used,  or  the  plants  are 
thoroughly  dormant.  Dry  winds  are  equally  as  injurious  as  hot  sun. 
The  general  rule  is  that  no  plant  should  be  transplanted  except  with 
extreme  care,  and  only  when  it  is  entirely  dormant.  Plants  are 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  33 

generally  considered  dormant  when  the  flow  of  sap  has  ceased  in  the 
top,  at  which  time  the  season's  growth  is  completed,  and  when  the 
wood  has  had  an  ample  opportunity  to  ripen  and  harden.  Deciduous 
plants  are  dormant  when  the  leaves  have  fallen  or  turned  brown. 
Transplanting  before  the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripened  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  winter-killing.  It  will  be  noted  under  group  No.  4O-A 
and  406  (on  Page  289)  that  there  are  certain  types  of  stock  which 
should  be  transplanted  in  the  spring  and  others  which  should  be 
transplanted  in  the  fall  to  secure  the  best  results.  The  explanation 
is  contained  in  Chapter  XL.  Evergreens  require  different  rules  for 
time  of  moving  and  must  therefore  be  considered  separately  (See 
Page  48).  It  is  practicable  to  transplant  small  trees,  many 
evergreens  and  many  shrubs,  together  with  perennials,  before  they 
have  finished  their  growing  season  ort  after  growth  in  the  spring  has  well 
begun;  but  this  should  rarely  if  ever  be  attempted  with  large  trees. 
In  such  out-of-season  handling  of  the  stock  extreme  caution  should  be 
used  to  prevent  drying  out,  and  the  plant  should  be  moved,  if  possible, 
with  the  earth  balled  about  the  roots. 

TRANSPLANTING  NURSERY  STOCK.  It  is  essential  that  the  pur- 
chaser of  nursery  stock  should  request  that  such  material  be  lifted  and 
packed  properly.  Nursery  stock  in  general  must  be  dug  carefully  to 
preserve  as  much  of  the  root  growth  as  is  practicable,  and  with  roots 
cut  as  cleanly  as  possible.  The  stock  should  not  be  allowed  to  stand 
openly  exposed  to  the  injurious  effects  of  wind  and  sun  after  lifting  and 
before  packing.  For  short  shipments,  of  one  or  two  days,  stock  can 
be  packed  equally  well  in  excelsior,  sphagnum-moss,  or  straw,  but  for 
longer  shipments  material  should  not  be  packed  in  excelsior,  for  it  dries 
out  too  rapidly. 

On  receipt  of  nursery  stock  which  has  been  shipped  in  boxes  or 
crates  the  stock  (being  delivered  by  truck  or  by  wagon)  should  be 
so  loaded  and  so  covered  with  canvas  that  there  is  a  minimum  of 
exposure  to  drying-out  processes.  Stock,  when  received  on  the 
grounds  where  it  is  to  be  planted,  should  be  removed  at  once  from 
boxes  or  crates,  and  if  not  planted  immediately  must  be  "heeled  in" 
(Plate  VI)  or  kept  in  some  other  way  from  drying  out. 

TRANSPLANTING — COLLECTED  STOCK.  Collected  stock  needs  more 
careful  attention  than  nursery  stock.  Collected  material  usually 


The  following  is  a  descriptive  memorandum  to  accompany  Plate 
No.  VI. 

A 

If  plants  are  not  to  be  planted  immediately  (within  three  or  four  days)  after  the 
time  of  arrival,  they  should  be  carefully  unpacked  and  "heeled-in,"  until  such 
time  as  they  can  be  planted  to  advantage  (See  Page  36). 

B-l  and  B-2 

The  average  small  tree  as  it  is  received  from  the  nursery  ought  to  be  pruned  be- 
fore the  plant  is  put  in  its  permanent  location.  This  drawing  shows  a  nursery 
tree  (B-i)  with  two  leaders,  and  the  proper  pruning  of  this  tree  (8-2)  by  removing 
one  of  the  leaders  and  some  of  the  small  branches. 

C-l  and  C-2 

Large  trees  and  trees  which  are  difficult  to  transplant  should  be  root  pruned  not 
later  than  July  of  the  summer  previous  to  the  season  when  they  are  to  be  trans- 
planted. Usually  the  fibrous  part  of  the  existing  root  system  (C-l)  is  entirely 
removed  by  the  transplanting  operation  unless  root  pruning  is  done  (C-i)  and  the 
trenches  filled  with  well-rotted  compost,  thus  encouraging  the  fibrous  root  system 
(C-2)  close  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree  and  within  the  diameter  of  the  ball  of  earth 
usually  moved  with  the  tree. 

D-l,  D-2,  D-3,  and  D-4 

Hybrid  roses  of  various  types  are  sometimes  grown  on  their  own  roots  without 
grafting  (D-i).  Such  roses  should  be  transplanted  slightly  deeper  (D-2)  than 
in  their  original  position  (D-i).  D-3  shows  the  same  bush  mounded  with  a 
depth  of  6  to  8  inches  of  soil,  for  winter  protection.  In  transplanting  grafted 
roses  the  knot  formation,  indicated  by  the  arrow,  where  the  graft  was  made  should 
be  set  about  I  inch  or  more  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  (D-4).  If  any  suckers 
develop  from  below  the  graft,  the  soil  should  be  dug  away  and  the  suckers  cut 
off  close  to  the  stem. 

E-l,  E-2,  and  E-3 

Trees  and  shrubs  growing  at  a  normal  depth  (E-i)  should  be  transplanted  leaving 
the  surface  of  the  ground  surrounding  the  stem  at  the  same  point  or  slightly  below 
that  point  in  the  new  location,  and  the  basin  for  watering  such  plants  should  be 
made  as  shown  in  E-2.  Plants  should  never  be  transplanted  at  an  abnormal 
depth  below  the  surface  of  the  existing  ground  or  permanently  left  with  a  mound 
of  earth  around  the  main  stem  as  shown  in  £-3. 


34 


-A- 


-Bi-        -B2- 


-Ci- 


-Cz- 


-Di- 


-Di- 


-D3- 


-D4- 


-Ei- 


-E2- 


-E3- 


PLATE  VI.  A  knowledge  of  the  various  operations  involved  in 
the  work  of  correctly  transplanting  plants  is  essential  for  their 
subsequent  normal  development.  These  diagrammatic  drawings 
accompanied  by  the  explanation  on  the  opposite  page  illustrate 
various  transplanting  operations. 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  35 

has  a  larger  spread  of  roots  than  plants  grown  in  nursery  rows,  and 
as  it  has  never  been  previously  transplanted  or  root  pruned  it  suffers 
more  severely  through  loss  of  root  system.  Top  pruning  must  there- 
fore be  more  severe  for  collected  plants  than  for  nursery  material,  to 
offset  the  greater  loss  of  roots.  Collected  stock  usually  requires  a 
longer  period  in  which  to  become  well  established  in  its  new  location. 
When  the  loss  in  transplanted  stock  is  ten  or  fifteen  per  cent.,  the  aver- 
rage  loss  in  collected  stock  may  be  as  high  as  twenty  per  cent.  The 
usual  period  required  for  establishing  nursery  stock  in  its  new  loca- 
tion is  two  years.  The  usual  period  for  establishing  collected  stock  may 
range  from  two  to  four  years. 


SEASON  OF  YEAR  FOR  TRANSPLANTING.  Planting  seasons  in  differ- 
ent localities  are  influenced  by  many  factors.  Soil  conditions  and 
climatic  conditions  are  the  most  important,  as  seen  in  Chapter  II. 
Heavy  soils  are  more  friable  during  the  fall,  while  during  the  spring 
they  remain  heavy,  cold,  and  wet  until  quite  late.  In  such  soils  if  but 
little  planting  is  to  be  done  it  is  better  to  plant  during  the  spring 
months  for  the  reason  that  clay  soils  tend,  through  frost  action  during 
the  winter  months,  to  heave  out  material  which  is  planted  in  the  fall. 
It  is  undoubtedly  true  .that  fall  planting,  especially  in  heavy  soils, 
requires  more  thorough  winter  protection  than  spring  planting  in  the 
same  soil.  On  the  other  hand,  if  a  quantity  of  planting  is  to  be  done 
it  is  much  safer  to  plant  during  the  fall  in  a  heavy  soil,  especially  as  a 
rainy  season  is  frequently  experienced  during  the  early  spring  months, 
thus  delaying  planting  work  until  growth  is  too  far  advanced.  There 
is  little  actual  difference  between  the  desirability  of  spring  planting 
and  fall  planting.  There  are  arguments  on  both  sides  of  the  question 
and,  with  the  exception  of  those  plants  which  are  adapted  for  trans- 
planting only  at  a  specific  season,  the  writer  suggests  that  planting 
should  be  done  whenever  the  soil  is  ready  to  receive  the  plants,  whether 
it  be  spring  or  fall.  This  is  especially  true  in  the  loamy  soils.  Trans- 
planting should  not  be  done  too  late  in  the  spring,  for  the  reason  that 
growth  will  be  too  far  advanced  for  the  plants  to  be  moved  with 
safety,  and  the  season  will  become  hot  and  dry  before  the  plants  are 
well  established.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  plants  taken  from  a  colder 
climate  to  a  much  warmer  climate  should  preferably  be  transplanted 
in  the  fall. 


36  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

PLANTING  BEDS.  GENERAL  PREPARATIONS  OF.  Soil  for  planting 
should  be  prepared  carefully.  Beds  for  shrubbery  should  be  dug  at 
least  twelve  inches  deep  and  ample  width  and  depth  provided  for 
trees,  varying  according  to  their  size.  The  soil  should  be  made  loose 
and  friable  so  that  it  will  cover  the  roots  thoroughly.  Well-rotted 
manure  should  be  incorporated  in  planting  beds,  but  never  directly  in 
contact  with  the  roots,  especially  of  evergreens.  Heavy  soils  should  be 
lightened,  if  possible,  by  the  addition  of  sandy  loam  or  straw  manure 
and  light  soils  should  be  improved  by  the  addition  of  vegetable  matter. 

Oftentimes  owners  of  property  are  so  anxious  to  do  their  planting 
in  an  economical  way  that  they  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  thorough 
preparation  of  all  planting  areas,  although  more  expensive,  is  good 
economy,  and  the  least  expensive  way  in  the  long  run  of  obtaining  good 
results.  Poor  preparation  of  planting  beds  as  well  as  foundations  for 
lawn  areas  means  an  increased  expense  in  the  cost  of  maintenance 
during  the  succeeding  years  after  the  completion  of  the  original  work. 
Thorough  preparation  of  planting  beds  can  be  accomplished  only 
through  the  use  of  good  friable  topsoil  and  an  adequate  supply  of  well- 
rotted  manure.  It  is  an  easy  matter  in  all  planting  work,  especially 
that  done  in  clay  soils,  to  do  so-called  pocket  planting  and  to  feel  that 
the  initial  expense  has  been  very  greatly  reduced.  In  all  planting 
areas  bordering  refined  laVns  this  method  of  planting  is  not  desirable. 
It  causes  a  "soil-bound"  and  a  stunted  growth  of  the  root  system  and 
does  not  provide  the  adequate  food  supply  which  plants  growing  freely 
in  a  loose  and  friable  soil  can  obtain. 

HEELING-IN  STOCK  TO  BE  TRANSPLANTED.  When  shipments  of 
stock  are  received  it  is  frequently  impossible  to  plant  the  material  as 
rapidly  as  it  is  unpacked,  and  it  is  often  impossible  to  plant  the  stock 
because  the  beds  are  not  prepared.  The  placing  of  stock  in  temporary 
nursery  rows  immediately  after  it  has  been  unpacked  is  called  "heeling 
in."  In  this  manner  stock  may  be  preserved  in  its  normal  condition 
until  such  time  as  it  can  be  transplanted  to  its  permanent  location. 
There  are  a  few  important  points  in  connection  with  the  operation  of 
"heeling-in"  stock  which  should  be  clearly  understood.  Trees 
and  shrubs,  when  "heeled-in"  over  winter,  should  be  leaned  to  the 
north  so  that  the  low  winter  sun  may  not  shine  directly  into  the  tops 
nor  so  readily  melt  the  frozen  ground  about  the  stems.  Thus  they  are 
protected  better  from  freezing  and  thawing  of  the  ground  and  from 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  37 

premature  starting  of  the  buds  in  the  spring.  Nursery  stock  may  be 
placed  in  temporary  nursery  rows,  either  by  keeping  the  plants  tied  in 
original  bundles  as  taken  from  the  packing  boxes,  or  by  taking  the 
individual  plants  from  each  bundle  and  heeling  them  in  separately. 
The  latter  method  is  the  safer  and  is  the  one  to  be  adopted  if  plants 
are  to  remain  in  these  temporary  nursery  rows  for  a  period  longer  than 
ten  days  or  two  weeks.  When  stock  is  "heeled-in"  in  bundles,  a 
special  effort  should  be  made  to  get  the  fine  topsoil  worked  into  the  air 
spaces  among  the  roots  of  the  plants  in  each  bundle.  Permitting  the 
air  to  reach  the  roots  in  the  middle  of  the  bundle  because  this  precau- 
tion is  not  taken,  is  one  of  the  most  frequent  sources  of  injury.  The 
best  method  to  adopt  to  be  certain  that  fine  soil  is  worked  in  among  the 
roots  is  to  thoroughly  water  the  plants  when  they  are  "heeled-in" 
and  to  make  sure  that  the  water  leaves  no  roots  suspended  in  air. 
When  individual  plants  are  placed  in  temporary  nursery  rows,  where 
they  are  to  remain  for  a  period  longer  than  three  or  four  weeks,  they 
should  be  spaced  not  closer  than  twelve  inches,  or  even  farther  apart 
for  the  larger  shrubs,  to  eliminate  injury  from  crowding  as  soon  as  the 
new  growth  begins  (See  Plate  VI). 

ROOT  PROTECTION  AND  PUDDLING.  The  important  object  in  trans- 
planting is  to  transfer  the  plant  to  its  new  position  in  such  a  condition 
that  growth  will  immediately  continue  as  nearly  normal  as  possible 
when  growing  conditions  become  favourable.  Growth  is  first  excited 
and  maintained  by  very  fine,  fibrous  roots,  almost  thread-like  in 
character,  which  attach  themselves  to  the  soil.  It  is  this  fine  root 
growth  which  is  so  sensitive  to  injury  from  drying-out  processes,  and 
which  must  be  protected  against  the  sun's  rays,  and  also  from  the 
effect  of  wind.  A  dry  wind  will  work  greater  injury  to  plants  which 
are  left  uncovered  during  any  unnecessary  length  of  time  than  will  a 
bright  sun  on  a  moist  day. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  transplant  material  under  exceedingly  un- 
favourable conditions,  due  to  wind,  or  sun,  or  when  plants  have 
advanced  in  leaf  growth.  Under  such  circumstances  it  is  advisable  to 
"puddle"  the  roots  at  the  time  when  the  plants  are  removed  from  the 
temporary  nursery  rows,  and  before  they  are  planted  permanently. 
"Puddling"  consists  in  dipping  the  roots  of  the  plants  in  a  basin 
hollowed  out  of  the  soil  and  filled  with  a  molasses-like  mixture  of  loam 
and  water.  This  "puddling"  process  leaves  a  coating  of  mud  over  the 
fine  roots  and  prevents  excessive  drying  out  until  the  material  is  planted. 


38  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

DRAINAGE  FOR  TRANSPLANTED  STOCK.  The  soil  in  which  plants  are 
placed  should  be  considered  carefully.  Sandy  soils  which  have  ample 
drainage,  and  clayey  soils,  which  naturally  retain  water,  require  dis- 
tinctly different  treatment.  It  is  invariably  necessary  in  clayey  soils, 
especially  with  larger  trees,  to  provide  artificial  drainage.  In  sandy 
soils,  on  the  other  hand,  an  extra  supply  of  water  must  be  added, 
especially  when  stock  is  transplanted  during  the  latter  part  of  the 
spring  season  or  in  the  warmer  climates.  A  plant  should  not  be 
placed  in  a  "pocket,"  excavated  in  shale  or  clay,  which  will  afford 
little  or  no  drainage;  and  it  is  of  course  better  not  to  plant  on  a 
small  mound  which  will  lose  moisture  rapidly  during  the  dry  season. 
The  common  practice  of  "hilling"  earth  around  the  stem  of  the 
plant,  which  sheds  water  away  from  the  roots,  is  to  be  discouraged. 
A  shallow,  basin-shaped  depression  should  be  left  around  the  stem. 
This  will  hold  the  water  until  it  soaks  down  to  the  roots.  But 
suitable  allowance  must  be  made  for  later  settling  of  the  loosened 
earth. 

BALLED-AND-BURLAPPED  ROOT  SYSTEMS.  Planting  material  is 
often  lifted  with  a  ball  of  earth  left  intact  around  the  roots.  The  ball 
of  earth  after  being  lifted  is  then  carefully  wrapped  with  burlap. 
This  process  is  used  with  large  material,  evergreens,  and  any  plants 
that  are  difficult  to  move.  The  great  danger  of  transplanting  such 
material  after  it  has  been  wrapped  for  three  or  four  days  lies  in  the  fact 
that  during  this  period  the  outer  thin  layer  of  earth  on  the  ball 
becomes  hard  and  dry.  The  general  practice  with  many  planters  has 
been  to  plant  the  stock  without  further  care  after  removing  the  burlap. 
In  the  course  of  a  few  months  the  plant  dies.  Loss  is  due  to  insufficient 
moisture  reaching  the  outer  coating  of  the  ball  to  loosen  it,  and  thus 
necessary  water  cannot  reach  the  roots,  which  have  become  sealed  inside 
the  hard  coating.  The  best  practice  with  all  plants  which  have  been 
"balled  and  burlapped"  is  to  immerse  the  ball  in  water  for  a  short 
time  in  order  to  thoroughly  loosen  the  dirt  in  this  outer  coating  before 
transplanting.  It  is  never  advisable  simply  to  slit  the  burlap  with  a 
knife  without  removing  the  covering  entirely  and  soaking  the  ball  with 
water  before  transplanting.  Place  the  plant  in  the  hole  where  it  is 
to  be  planted,  then  cut  the  binding  and  remove  the  burlap  very  slowly 
and  carefully,  exercising  caution  to  avoid  disturbing  the  ball;  then 
partially  fill  the  hole  with  water. 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  39 

DEPTH  FOR  TRANSPLANTING.  The  question  is  often  asked  as  to  how 
deep  stock  should  be  set  when  it  is  transplanted.  This  is  a  query 
which  must  be  applied  to  various  types  of  material  according  to  the 
special  requirements  of  each.  For  example,  some  of  the  more  tender 
perennials  like  the  shasta  daisy,  the  foxglove,  and  the  cardinal  flower 
should  not  be  set  as  deep  as  some  of  the  hardier  types  like  the  phlox,  the 
larkspur,  and  the  hardy  sunflower.  The  suggestions  here,  however,  are 
general.  A  plant  in  its  new  location  should  stand  at  about  the  same 
level  as  it  stood  before.  There  is  more  danger  of  setting  a  plant  too 
deep  in  a  clayey  soil  than  in  that  which  is  sandy,  for  it  is  vital  that  the 
air  should  reach  the  roots.  More  stock  is  injured  by  deep  planting 
than  by  shallow,  and  it  often  will  be  found  well  to  set  the  plant  with  the 
crown  or  top  of  the  roots  an  inch  or  more  nearer  the  surface  than  it  was 
before.  This  is  especially  true  in  the  case  of  trees  which,  as  is  fre- 
quently observed,  are  easily  killed  by  filling  in  earth  around  them.  In 
the  case  of  shrubs  it  is  not  a  serious  matter,  except  with  rhododendrons 
and  azaleas.  These  two  plants  are  strongly  characterized  by  having 
roots  that  remain  near  the  surface.  Roses  of  all  kinds,  however,  are 
better  set  deep,  for  they  readily  throw  out  new  roots  above  the  old. 
Deep  planting  thus  incidentally  helps  to  conserve  the  supply  of 
moisture  so  essential  to  success  with  the  rose.  In  the  case  of  budded 
roses  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  union  at  least  two  and  a  half  or  three 
inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  in  order  that  suckers  may  not 
spring  up  from  the  stock  and  choke  the  engrafted  plant.  Vines, 
particularly  grape  vines,  also  it  is  well  to  plant  deep.  In  fact,  grape 
vines  are  often  led  under  the  ground  for  a  rod  or  more  to  spring  up  at  a 
distant  point  where  it  is  desired  to  have  them  grow.  But  with 
perennials  in  general,  extreme  care  must  be  exercised.  Those  like  the 
iris,  with  leaves  that  spring  from  a  point  near  the  ground,  are  made  to 
decay  by  earth  heaped  about  them.  Those  with  thick,  fleshy  roots 
particularly  should  be  planted  only  according  to  a  careful  observance  of 
their  habit  of  growth.  The  peony  does  not  make  good  bloom  if  the 
eyes ,  are  sunk  much  more  than  two  and  a  half  inches  below  the 
surface.  In  the  transplanting  of  the  roots  of  the  larkspur  it 
should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  crown  at  the  base  of  the  plant 
should  be  covered  with  good  topsoil  to  a  depth  of  approximately 
two  or  three  inches.  In  all  transplanting  calculation  should  be 
made  of  the  possibility  of  the  earth  settling  around  the  plant 
(See  Plate  VI). 


40 

FERTILIZING  TRANSPLANTED  STOCK.  In  using  fertilizers  it  is  not 
advisable  to  apply  them  in  any  quantity  so  that  they  will  come  in 
direct  contact  with  the  roots  of  newly  transplanted  stock.  It  is  always 
essential  for  plants  to  become  established  before  they  can  make  use  of  a 
fertilizer;  otherwise  injury  may  result.  Until  a  tree  makes  a  new 
terminal  bud  on  the  second  growth  its  root  system  has  not  become 
established  nor  has  it  developed  fibrous  feeding  rootlets  sufficient  to 
support  the  tree.  A  safe  recommendation  is  that  fertilizers  should  be 
so  distributed  in  the  soil  surrounding  the  roots  of  transplanted  stock 
that  the  food  can  become  available  as  soon  as  the  roots  have  started 
growth.  In  transplanting  nursery  trees  and  large  trees  a  slow-acting 
fertilizer,  such  as  bone  meal,  can  be  used  in  the  soil  around  the  roots, 
because  the  fertilizer  will  become  available  at  the  time  when  the  tree 
has  developed  some  of  its  new  root  growth. 

TAMPING  AND  WATERING.  Soil  should  be  made  compact  in  among 
the  roots  of  newly  transplanted  stock  by  watering  or  tamping.  Tamp- 
ing may  be  accomplished  by  pressing  down  the  soil  with  the  heel  or  a 
stick.  In  tamping,  care  should  be  exercised  not  to  press  too  heavily 
immediately  around  the  stem  of  the  plant,  as  in  so  doing  injury  may 
be  caused  by  the  breaking  of  roots.  Soil  that  can  be  readily  packed 
should  be  used  around  the  roots.  This  is  necessary,  as  any  air  spaces 
remaining  will  cause  drying  out  of  roots  and  consequent  injury  to  the 
plants. 

If  water  is  available,  it  is  advisable  to  run  some  slowly  into  the  holes 
where  material  is  planted,  either  at  the  time  of  planting  or  immediately 
after  planting.  The  best  plan  is  to  put  it  in  when  the  hole  is  partly 
filled  with  earth  around  the  roots.  This  is  done  further  to  compact 
the  soil  and  to  provide  necessary  moisture.  Unless  soil  is  particularly 
moist,  newly  transplanted  stock  should  be  watered  shortly  after 
transplanting.  It  is  not  advisable,  however,  to  apply  very  much 
water  in  soils  or  sites  extremely  retentive  of  moisture  for  it  is  quite  as 
easy  to  injure  plants  from  over-watering  as  it  is  to  preserve  them  by 
giving  them  just  sufficient  water  to  meet  their  requirements. 

TRANSPLANTING  SMALL  SEEDLINGS.  For  transplanting  small  seed- 
lings of  trees  and  shrubs  a  well-protected  spot  should  be  selected,  and 
the  ground  should  be  prepared  to  a  depth  of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  by 
deep  spading  and  careful  raking.  Prepare  the  area  in  the  same  way 


PLATE  VIII.  To  most  of  us  in  the  Northern  States  the  method  of  seeding 
a  lawn  is  familiar,  but  the  method  of  making  lawns  in  the  Southern  States  by 
planting  Bermuda  grass,  is  little  known.  In  these  photographs  small  clumps 
of  Bermuda  grass  are  being  planted  in  "hills"  staggered  at  intervals  ranging 
from  18  inches  to  30  inches.  The  thicker  the  planting  the  more  quickly  a 
mat  of  turf  can  be  developed.  (See  page  62) 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  41 

as  for  a  vegetable  garden.  The  little  plants,  which  should  not  have 
been  exposed  at  all  to  the  warm  air  or  drying  winds,  are  then  best 
puddled  before  they  are  lined  out.  But  in  this  actual  planting  there 
is  danger  of  permitting  the  mud  in  which  they  were  puddled  to  become 
hardened  about  their  roots.  Further  to  safeguard  them,  particu- 
larly if  they  are  evergreens,  it  is  necessary  to  shade  them  until  they 
are  well  established  in  the  new  home.  Some  evergreens,  particu- 
larly the  small  shrubby  kinds,  need  such  shading  even  beyond  the 
first  year. 

PRUNING  TRANSPLANTED  STOCK.  Suggestions  with  reference  to 
pruning  are  covered  more  fully  in  the  chapter  on  "Pruning."  One 
of  the  fundamental  practices  to  be  followed  in  connection  with  the 
correct  transplanting  of  stock  is  to  prune  all  branches  and  roots 
properly.  Any  branches  that  are  crowding  should  be  carefully  pruned 
at  the  time  of  transplanting,  especially  if  the  transplanting  is  done  in 
the  spring;  otherwise  it  is  a  better  practice  to  leave  the  stock  standing 
in  its  new  position  during  the  winter  and  perform  the  necessary  prun- 
ing of  the  top  in  the  early  spring  or  later  winter  months.  An  exception 
to  this  practice  is  the  case  of  maple  trees,  which  should  be  pruned 
before  sap  starts  to  flow  in  the  spring.  With  trees  and  shrubs  hav- 
ing a  heavy  top,  at  least  one-third  of  the  top  should  be  removed 
at  the  time  of  transplanting,  or  before  the  stock  has  commenced  to 
make  its  new  growth  in  the  spring.  This  is  done  to  offset  the  loss 
of  roots  incurred  in  moving  and  it  is  essential  except  with  nursery 
stock  which  has  been  frequently  root-pruned  at  the  nursery.  All 
bruised  and  broken  roots  should  be  carefully  pruned,  with  a  clean 
cut,  at  the  time  of  transplanting.  Only  in  this  manner  will  roots 
heal  and  possible  decay  be  avoided.  Save  as  many  roots  as  possible 
when  moving. 

WINTER  PROTECTION  OF  NEWLY  TRANSPLANTED  STOCK.  A  neces- 
sary feature  in  caring  for  newly  transplanted  plants,  especially  those 
set  in  the  fall,  is  to  apply  a  suitable  mulch  for  winter  protection.  This 
applies  to  all  kinds  of  transplanted  material.  -A  mulch,  in  heavier 
clayey  soils,  reduces  the  possible  injury  caused  by  changes  of  tempera- 
ture and  consequent  heaving  of  the  plants.  A  proper  mulch  of  fresh 
stable  litter,  applied  three  to  six  inches  in  depth,  keeps  the  soil  at  an 
even  temperature  and  prevents  extreme  freezing  conditions  from 


42  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

injuring  the  roots.  A  mulch  which  is  largely  straw  may  provide  a 
refuge  for  rabbits,  rats,  and  mice  which  frequently  girdle  plants  during 
the  winter  months. 

TRANSPLANTING  TREES.  Some  plants,  particularly  trees,  may  be 
transplanted  successfully  while  young  but  are  more  difficult  to  move 
as  they  get  older.  Examples  of  this  are  the  hickory  and  oaks,  which, 
with  the  exception  of  the  pin  oak,  form  deep  tap  roots.  The  tulips  and 
magnolias  are  hard  to  move  because  they  have  few  fibrous  roots; 
while  maples  and  elms,  on  the  contrary,  have  many  fibrous  roots 
and  are  moved  more  easily.  Junipers  transplant  more  readily  when 
older,  for  they  then  have  a  more  extensive  lateral  root  system. 

SEASON  TO  TRANSPLANT,  AND  PREPARATION  OF  HOLES.  Large  trees 
should  be  transplanted  when  they  are  dormant.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  move  other  material  before  tire  growing  period  has  stopped,  but 
this  should  seldom  be  attempted  with  older  trees.  Large  trees  are 
moved  in  winter,  and  it  is  preferable  to  move  them  when  the  ground  is 
frozen.  The  ball  of  earth  on  the  roots  will  then  remain  fairly  intact 
and  there  will  be  a  minimum  of  root  loss  when  moving.  Holes  for  the 
trees  should  be  dug  with  straight  sides  and  with  bottom  rather  convex 
or  slightly  rounded.  This  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  making  holes 
bowlshaped  and  it  permits  an  opportunity  to  spread  the  roots  more 
naturally  than  in  a  hole  where  the  middle  is  deeper  than  the  sides. 
A  common  error  in  transplanting  large  trees  is  that  of  providing  a 
hole  not  sufficiently  large  to  receive  the  roots  of  the  tree  without  cramp- 
ing. A  hole  for  a  large  tree  greater  than  five  to  six  inches  in  diameter 
should  not  be  less  than  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  never  less  than 
three  feet  in  depth.  The  most  common  method  of  transplanting  large 
trees  is  the  method  of  cutting  the  roots  down  to  a  ball  approximating 
eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter.  Trees  transplanted  in  this  way  are 
frequently  subjected  to  a  root-pruning  process  during  the  previous 
summer,  or  preferably  during  the  previous  year. 

It  has  been  stated  by  authorities,  who  are  in  a  position  to  know,  that 
the  ideal  method  of  transplanting  trees  is  by  saving  all  of  the  root 
system,  if  possible.  This  process  is  known  as  "combing"  out  the  root 
system.  Under  this  method  all  of  the  roots  are  traced  down  to  their 
fine  ends  and  then  the  roots  are  tied  up  in  burlap  in  order  to  pre- 
vent excessive  drying  out  of  the  fine  fibrous  roots.  Transplanting 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  43 

in  this  way  requires  much  more  care,  but  it  assures  less  loss  than  the 
other  method,  which  is  a  violent  process  and  requires  strong  recupera- 
tive powers  in  the  tree  which  is  transplanted. 

DRAINAGE  OF  TREE  PITS.  Ample  drainage  must  be  provided  for 
large  trees,  especially  when  set  in  clayey  soil.  The  soil  with  which 
trees  are  transplanted  is  normally  a  medium  loam,  not  too  compact  in 
character.  This  soil  is  much  more  porous  than  the  heavy  clay  soil 
in  which  the  hole  for  the  tree  may  be  excavated.  Consequently, 
the  natural  tendency  during  wet  seasons  is  for  the  water  to  drain 
toward  the  tree  pit  and  to  "water  soak"  the  loose  topsoil  in  which  the 
tree  has  been  set.  This  really  places  the  tree  in  a  reservoir.  A  tree 
will  survive  such  treatment  if  it  can  withstand  extreme  moisture  con- 
ditions, or  if  the  water  drains  slowly  away.  However,  the  tree  is 
generally  killed  during  the  first  season,  or  may  survive  in  a  much 
weakened  condition.  The  normal  method  of  draining  trees  is  to  pro- 
vide a  four-inch  tile  connected  with  some  outlet  in  the  form  of  existing 
tile  drains,  or  lower  ground,  so  that  the  water  may  be  taken  away. 
In  the  event  that  there  is  no  opportunity  to  provide  this  type  of 
drainage  it  is  desirable  to  excavate  a  hole  to  a  greater  depth — approxi- 
mately three  to  five  feet — and  thereby  provide  below  the  tree  a  space 
of  at  least  twelve  inches  which  should  be  filled  with  broken  stone  or 
other  porous  material  and  in  which  water  resulting  from  normal  rain- 
fall may  be  collected.  In  this  way  the  root  growth  may  be  kept  from 
drowning. 

METHOD  OF  PROCEDURE  IN  TRANSPLANTING  LARGE  TREES.  It  is 
economical  in  transplanting  large  trees  to  adopt  the  fallowing  method 
of  procedure. 

In  selecting  large  trees  for  transplanting  great  care  should  be 
exercised  to  select  only  those  individual  trees  which  show  a  vigorous 
growing  condition  and  which  are  more  or  less  symmetrical. 

1.  Select  and  stake  the  proposed  location  where  the  tree  is  to  be  transplanted. 

2.  Cover  this  space,  over  a  diameter  of  at  least  ten  feet,  with  ten  to  twelve  inches 

of  fresh  stable  manure.  This  is  more  economical  than  to  excavate  the  hole 
and  fill  it  with  topsoil  for  the  reason  that  this  topsoil  is  apt  to  freeze  and  be 
useless  at  time  of  transplanting. 

3.  Preserve  a  single  large  pile  of  topsoil   (rather  than  a  number  of  small  piles, 

which  freeze  in  a  severe  winter)  and  cover  this  with  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  of 


44  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

stable  litter,  in  order  to  protect  it  from  freezing  and  to  make  it  readily  avail- 
able when  the  trees  are  transplanted.  It  is  quite  essential  that  this  topsoil 
should  be  friable  at  the  time  of  planting. 

4.  When  conditions  are  favourable  for  transplanting,  remove  the  stable  manure 
from  the  place  where  the  tree  is  to  be  planted,  excavate  the  hole,  dig  up  the 
tree,  place  it  in  the  hole,  cover  the  roots  with  the  topsoil,  and  then  replace 
the  stable  manure  over  this  area.  This  covering  will  then  serve  as  a  mulch  and 
as  protection  against  further  freezing,  and  against  evaporation  in  hot  weather. 

After  trees  are  planted  guy  wires  should  be  set  to  prevent  wind 
storms  from  bending  or  tipping  the  trees  over.  It  is  never  a  safe 
practice  to  transplant  any  large  tree  without  supporting  it  with  wires. 
The  reason  for  attaching  guy  wires  to  newly  transplanted  trees  is  two- 
fold. First,  to  be  sure  that  the  tree  does  not  blow  over  during  a  severe 
windstorm,  and  second,  to  keep  the  tree  from  swaying  without  blowing 
over  and  thereby  loosening  the  root  system  and  letting  air  get  into  the 
soil  around  the  roots.  This  second  reason  for  guying  trees  is  an  im- 
portant one,  and  is  sufficient  in  itself  to  require  a  very  careful  tight- 
ening of  the  wires  which  hold  the  trees  in  place.  In  placing  guy 
wires  on  the  trunk  it  should  be  protected  from  injury  by  the  use 
of  pieces  of  hose,  bagging,  or  canvas. 

PROTECTION  AFTER  TRANSPLANTING.  Large  trees  when  trans- 
planted must  be  amply  protected  against  evaporation  during  the  hot 
summer  months.  This  protection  is  given  to  the  tree  in  two  ways. 
First,  a  mulch  consisting  of  straw,  litter,  or  leaves  is  applied  to  a  depth 
of  six  to  eight  inches,  over  an  area  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  im- 
mediately around  the  base  of  the  tree.  Second,  the  trunk  is  wrapped 
with  burlap  or  bagging  to  prevent  excessive  drying  out.  Many  newly 
transplanted  trees  are  injured  by  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun  through 
lack  of  this  protection  which  prevents  a  drying  out  of  the  bark  and 
cambium  tissue  on  the  exposed  trunk  of  the  tree.  This  drying  out 
often  results  in  injury  to  large  trees  (as  shown  in  Plate  VII,  Page  75) 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  bark  cracks,  dries  up,  and  becomes  loosened 
from  the  trunk  of  the  tree  thus  exposing  the  inner  wood  immediately 
under  the  bark.  It  is  quite  as  necessary  to  provide  suitable  mulch 
during  the  winter  months  of  the  next  season  after  the  transplanting, 
as  to  provide  one  in  the  summer  months.  In  a  newly  transplanted 
tree  a  fine  root  growth  is  developed  near  to  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
and  this  root  growth  is  easily  injured  by  any  excessive  freezing  and 
thawing  which  may  occur  during  a  severe  winter. 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  45 

PRUNING  TREES  AFTER  TRANSPLANTING.  After  the  transplanting, 
the  top  and  the  root  growth  of  a  tree  must  be  balanced.  It  is  necessary 
to  remove  a  portion  of  the  root  growth  in  order  to  make  it  practicable 
to  handle  the  tree,  and  the  removal  of  roots  and  lifting  of  the  tree  from 
its  existing  location  shuts  off  much  of  the  supply  of  moisture  which  goes 
into  the  tree.  In  every  plant  that  is  moved  there  is  stored  within  the 
plant  a  certain  amount  of  food  material  which  becomes  available 
immediately  when  growth  starts.  A  portion  of  the  top  of  the  tree 
should  therefore  be  removed  in  order  to  lessen  the  possible  areas  of 
evaporation  and  areas  of  leaf  growth,  which  draw  heavily  upon  the 
store  of  food  in  the  tree;  otherwise  this  reserve  supply  is  apt  to  be  ex- 
hausted before  root  growth  is  started  sufficiently  to  provide  the  tree 
with  new  moisture.  There  are  instances  when  it  is  not  necessary  to 
prune  because  the  full  benefit  of  the  top  is  immediately  required. 
The  latter,  however,  will  require  more  care  for  the  tree  during  the 
summer  months  and  entails  a  greater  liability  to  loss  because  of  the 
unbalanced  condition  of  the  top  and  root  growth.  A  tree  that  is 
properly  pruned  at  the  time  of  transplanting  will,  within  three  years, 
equal  in  development  a  similar  tree  that  is  transplanted,  not  pruned, 
and  given  much  necessary  additional  care. 

FERTILIZING  NEWLY  TRANSPLANTED  TREES.  In  transplanting 
trees  there  is  great  danger  that  they  may  be  over-fertilized.  A  tree 
which  has  just  been  transplanted  has  suffered  a  severe  shock  to  its 
root  system.  It  is  not  in  a  condition  to  utilize  a  great  quantity  of  food. 
It  must  be  supplied  with  food  slowly  and  only  in  such  quantities  as  it 
can  readily  take  up  through  its  root  system.  There  is  great  danger  of 
over-stimulating  newly  transplanted  trees  at  the  time  when  their  leaves 
are  not  sufficiently  developed  to  digest  the  food  which  is  supplied, 
and  hence  instead  of  forcing  more  growth  in  the  tree,  a  condition 
is  apt  to  be  brought  about  in  the  soil  surrounding  the  roots  and  in  the 
tree  itself  which  retards  growth  instead  of  encouraging  it.  At  the 
time  a  tree  is  transplanted  a  normal  amount  of  well-rotted  manure 
should  be  worked  into  the  soil  but  not  in  direct  contact  with  the  roots. 
Not  until  the  tree  shows  evident  signs  of  regaining  its  normal  vigour 
by  developing  leaves  which  are  full  size,  and  new  wood  of  a  normal 
length,  should  the  tree  be  heavily  fertilized.  Such  trees  may  be 
"tuned  up"  by  feeding  them  with  a  mixed  fertilizer  of  potash,  dried 
blood,  and  bone  meal.  Such  a  fertilizer  may  be  fed  to  trees  during  the 


46  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

year  previous  to  the  time  that  they  are  transplanted,  in  order  to  make 
them  more  vigorous  and  better  able  to  withstand  the  shock  of  trans- 
planting, or  such  a  mixed  fertilizer  may  be  fed  to  the  tree  in  small  quan- 
tities, five  to  ten  pounds  to  an  average-sized  tree  (six  to  eight  inches 
in  diameter)  within  the  first  year  after  the  tree  has  been  transplanted. 
Under  no  conditions  should  a  newly  transplanted  tree  be  left  on  a 
neatly  mowed  lawn  area  without  artificial  methods  being  resorted  to 
for  feeding  it.  The  old  saying,  as  quoted  from  Mr.  Hicks,  is  that 
"Neatness  is  starvation."  Nature  provides  a  continual  gathering  of 
leaves  and  grass  which  rots  and  makes  fertilizer  for  the  tree.  When  the 
grass  is  kept  closely  clipped  and  the  clippings  taken  away,  and  when 
the  leaves  are  raked  each  fall,  then  this  neatness  deprives  the  tree  of  all 
of  its  possible  source  of  food  supply. 

TRANSPLANTING  NURSERY-GROWN  TREES.  Nursery  trees  are  trees 
which  have  been  grown  under  nursery  conditions  for  at  least  two  or 
three  years.  The  most  desirable  method  of  handling  such  trees  is  to 
ball-and-burlap  them,  to  lessen  the  danger  of  injury  from  trans- 
planting. This  applies  to  small  trees  with  well-developed  root 
systems,  and  especially  to  those  which  have  been  so  root  pruned  that 
the  root  spread  is  in  a  smaller,  more  compact  area  than  that  of  the 
usual  nursery  tree.  Holes  for  nursery  trees  should  be  excavated  at 
least  one  foot  larger  than  the  ball  preserved  with  the  tree.  In  other 
words,  the  roots  of  the  tree  should  never  be  pruned  to  fit  the  hole  in 
which  the  tree  is  to  be  planted  and  the  roots  should  never  be  crowded. 
It  is  quite  essential  to  place  small  guy  wires,  not  less  than  three  in 
number,  to  each  small  nursery  tree  from  two  to  five  inches  in  diameter. 
This  is  especially  necessary  when  trees  are  in  exposed  locations  or 
stand  alone  as  specimens. 

When  large  plantations  are  set  out  and  the  trees  will  be  subjected 
to  broad  sweeps  of  wind,  it  is  more  economical  not  to  guy,  but  rather  to 
watch  the  plantation,  and  from  time  to  time  straighten  up  such  trees 
as  are  pushed  out  of  their  normal  position  by  the  wind.  In  an  effort  to 
build  up  plantations  of  native  growth,  such  as  oak,  beech,  hickory, 
basswood,  and  any  other  forest  trees,  it  is  better  to  plant  these  trees 
in  concentric  circles  or  a  spiral  arrangement  so  that  during  the  first 
three  or  four  years  any  one  could  cultivate  among  these  trees  without 
very  much  difficulty.  If  the  trees  in  such  plantations  are  staggered 
here  and  there  without  any  relationship  to  any  avenues  through  which 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  47 

harrow  or  cultivator  can  pass,  the  maintenance  work  becomes  a  ques- 
tion of  hand  work  instead  of  team  work. 

TRANSPLANTING  SHRUBS  EFFICIENTLY.  In  transplanting  shrubbery 
the  stock  should  be  left  out  of  the  ground  as  short  a  time  as  possible. 
A  crew  of  two  or  three  men  under  one  competent  planting  foreman  is  as 
many  as  can  be  operated  to  good  advantage  in  planting  shrubbery  and 
perennials  according  to  some  definite  plan,  unless  the  men  are  thor- 
oughly familiar  with  methods  of  planting,  and  the  required  loca- 
tion for  the  plants. 

TRANSPLANTING  VINES.  The  transplanting  of  vines  is  similar  to 
transplanting  shrubs.  Vines  are  very  often  planted  too  close  to  foun- 
dation walls.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  set  plants  against  a  wall, 
but  rather  three  or  four  inches  away.  All  foreign  material,  such  as 
lime,  bricks,  etc.,  should  be  removed  from  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  at 
least  twelve  inches,  and  the  vines  placed  in  excellent,  fine  soil.  Vines 
should  not  be  planted  against  walls  or  buildings  where  the  overhang 
of  the  eaves  or  other  features  of  the  building  will  deprive  them  of  the 
normal  amount  of  rain;  otherwise  great  care  must  be  exercised  in 
artificial  watering. 

TRANSPLANTING  PERENNIALS.  The  season  for  transplanting  peren- 
nials is  not  quite  as  definite  as  the  season  for  transplanting  trees  and 
shrubs.  Under  normal  conditions  of  cloudy  days  and  good  mulch- 
ing protection  to  prevent  later  evaporation  perennials  can  be  trans- 
planted during  their  growing  period,  except  when  they  are  nearing 
their  maximum  of  growth  and  blooming  condition.  It  is  preferable, 
however,  to  transplant  perennials  as  soon  as  their  maximum  growth  is 
completed  for  the  season,  and  at  the  time  when  the  newly  transplanted 
material  can  obtain  a  slight  root  growth  in  its  new  location  before 
winter  conditions  commence.  There  are  some  types  of  perennials,  as 
indicated  in  group  No.  XL-A,  Page  289,  which  should  be  transplanted 
in  the  fall,  and  others  which  should  be  transplanted  in  the  spring. 
For  most  perennial  stock,  however,  there  is  no  difference  between  fall 
planting  and  spring  planting,  provided  the  proper  time  is  selected  at 
either  season.  The  principal  objection  to  transplanting  perennials  in 
the  fall  is  that  in  heavy  clay  soils  and  in  the  colder  climates  the  plants, 
if  not  carefully  mulched  during  the  winter  months,  are  apt  to  be 
heaved  from  their  new  locations  by  freezing  and  thawing.  Per- 


48  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

ennials  should  never  be  transplanted  when  the  ground  is  frozen,  even 
slightly.  Do  not  move  perennials  when  it  is  impossible  to  provide 
the  plants  with  rich  topsoil  in  which  to  continue  growth.  Perennials 
may  be  "heeled-in"  in  the  same  way  as  other  plants,  with  one  differ- 
ence. Perennials  must  be  removed  from  the  bundles  in  which  they  are 
shipped  and  each  plant  "heeled-in"  separately.  Unless  this  is  done  the 
plants  are  apt  to  mildew  or  rot.  Perennials  "heeled-in"  during  warm 
weather  should  be  covered  with  a  light  litter  of  straw  for  further  pro- 
tection against  drying  out.  When  transplanting  perennials,  es- 
pecially those  which  have  been  growing  for  two  or  more  years,  it  is 
quite  necessary  to  "divide"  them.  This  operation  of  dividing  plants 
is  explained  in  the  chapter  on  "Maintenance — Perennials"  (Page 
88).  Dividing  should  be  done  whenever  the  plants  become  too  thick. 
The  reason  why  many  perennials  purchased  from  nurseries  do  not  do 
well  during  the  first  year  is  because  the  plants  which  are  sold  by  the 
nursery  are  often  the  result  of  too  frequent  subdividing  of  the  parent 
plants  and  the  young  plants  are  not  given  sufficient  time  to  establish 
themselves  before  being  sold  to  the  prospective  purchasers.  The 
result  is  that  those  who  purchase  these  plants  must  wait  at  least  during 
one  growing  season  before  the  perennials  will  develop  normal  flower 
growth.  No  one  who  is  developing  for  the  first  time  a  perennial  flower 
garden  should  expect  a  normal  development  of  good  flowers  from 
perennials  supplied  by  the  average  nursery.  Such  persons  should  be 
prepared  to  wait  until  the  second  growing  season  before  expecting  a 
normal  flower  effect. 

TRANSPLANTING  EVERGREENS.  Evergreens  should  not  be  trans- 
planted to  a  "cold"  soil,  but  rather  into  a  soil  that  is  sufficiently  warm 
to  permit  root  growth  to  begin  immediately  and  to  continue  either 
during  the  spring  and  summer  or  during  a  period  of  two  or  three  weeks 
in  the  fall  before  the  plants  become  dormant.  The  best  season  for 
transplanting  evergreens,  especially  in  colder  climates,  is  during  the 
spring  months,  just  as  new  growth  is  beginning.  This  is  done  for  the 
purpose  of  giving  the  plants  an  opportunity  to  go  through  one  growing 
season  and  thereby  better  to  establish  themselves  to  withstand  cold 
weather  in  their  new  location.  Stable  manure  which  is  not  thor- 
oughly rotted  should  never  be  placed  in  contact  with  or  close  to 
the  roots  of  any  evergreen  plants.  Fresh  stable  manure  mixed  in 
any  soil  where  evergreens  are  to  be  planted  is  fatal  to  the  plants. 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  49 

When  evergreens  are  shipped  from  a  colder  and  more  backward  section 
to  a  more  advanced  growing  season  in  a  warmer  section  of  the  country 
it  is  usually  advisable  to  transplant  in  the  fall.  Evergreens  in  the 
opposite-leaved  group,  comprising  the  arborvitaes,  retinosporas,  and 
junipers,  should  seldom  be  transplanted  in  the  fall  after  the  plants 
begin  to  shed  their  leaves.  This  condition  may  be  recognized  when 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  leaves  throughout  the  plant  turn 
brown. 

If  it  is  necessary  to  transplant  evergreens  during  the  fall  when  the 
growing  season  is  completed  and  the  ground  is  subject  to  light  freezing 
and  thawing,  the  best  treatment  is  to  immediately  place  around  each 
newly  transplanted  plant  a  light  mulch  of  stable  litter  three  or  four 
inches  in  depth.  This  is  done  in  order  to  maintain  the  ground  at  an 
even  temperature  and  to  keep  the  soil  sufficiently  warm  so  that  some 
root  growth  will  start  before  freezing  conditions  develop. 

It  is  the  general  practice,  in  shipping  evergreens,  to  "ball-and-burlap" 
them.  In  this  condition  evergreens  can  be  shipped  for  a  considerable 
distance,  and  if  properly  wet  before  being  shipped  they  will  remain 
normal  for  a  period  of  two  or  three  weeks.  As  a  rule,  evergreens  for 
transplanting  are  grown  in  a  soil  which  is  composed  of  some  clay 
rather  than  in  a  soil  which  will  not  hold  together  around  the  roots. 

RHODODENDRONS.  In  the  northern  sections  of  the  United  States  it 
is  generally  assumed  that  spring  planting  of  rhododendrons  is  more 
desirable  than  fall  planting.  This  is  recommended  mostly  because 
plants  transplanted  in  the  spring  have  a  better  opportunity  to  es- 
tablish themselves  and  are  less  liable  to  injury  during  their  first 
winter.  If  rhododendrons  are  to  be  transplanted  in  the  fall,  it  should 
be  ascertained  whether  the  locality  from  which  the  plants  are  coming 
has  received  a  normal  amount  of  rainfall  prior  to  the  time  that  the 
plants  are  dug.  The  greatest  difficulty  in  transplanting  rhododen- 
drons is  that  with  insufficient  rainfall  and  a  dry  season,  before  the 
plants  are  dug,  there  is  insufficient  moisture  stored  in  the  plants  to 
offset  the  transpiration  caused  during  the  winter  months.  When 
material  is  transplanted  in  the  late  fall  roots  do  not  seem  to  make 
sufficient  growth  to  take  up  the  necessary  moisture  from  the  soil,  and 
therefore  the  plant  must  carry  itself  through  the  winter  on  the  strength 
of  the  moisture  stored  up  in  the  cells.  This  appears  to  be  the  main 
cause  for  criticism  against  the  fall  planting  of  rhododendrons.  It 


So  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  roots  of  rhododendrons  and  of  the 
kindred  plants  such  as  the  azaleas,  feed  near  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
For  this  reason,  and  also  because  of  the  evergreen  foliage  characteristics 
some  root  action  should  be  encouraged,  if  possible,  during  the  milder 
winter  months,  and  thus  mulching  of  such  plants  is  vital.  Extreme 
care  should  be  exercised  in  transplanting  these  types  of  plants.  Plants 
should  be  put  in  a  heavy,  well-rotted  leaf  mold  soil  at  no  greater  depth 
than  the  plant  stood  before  moving  from  its  previous  location.  It  is  a 
common  practice  in  the  preparation  of  lawn  areas  and  planting  areas, 
especially  in  sections  where  clay  soil  predominates,  to  apply  a  large 
amount  of  lime.  Because  lime  in  the  soil  is  an  element  very  injurious 
to  the  growth  of  broad-leaved  evergreens,  none  should  ever  be  put  in 
or  close  to  any  beds  which  are  to  be  planted  with  rhododendrons. 
This  is  also  true  of  building  plaster  and  mortar,  which  is  frequently 
thrown  into  the  soil  adjacent  to  the  foundation  of  buildings  where 
these  plants  may  later  be  put. 

Rhododendrons  should  never  be  planted  in  a  location  where  the  soil 
around  the  roots  will  dry  out.  They  should  be  sheltered  from  the 
morning  sun  and  also  from  extreme  exposures  of  wind.  During  most 
of  the  growing  season  the  falling  of  the  dew  as  a  result  of  the  con- 
densation of  the  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  causes  little  globules  of 
water  to  remain  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves  during  the  night.  These 
particles  of  moisture  are  slowly  evaporated  during  the  early  part  of  the 
morning.  The  rays  of  the  early  morning  sun  coming  in  direct  contact 
with  the  leaves  of  rhododendrons  on  which  these  particles  of  moisture 
are  still  present  are  concentrated  and  focused  by  these  many  little 
"lenses"  and  cause  a  burning  of  the  surface  of  the  leaves  which  in  the 
case  of  rhododendrons  is  extremely  injurious  to  the  plant.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  important  reasons  why  rhododendrons  with  their  sensi- 
tive leaf  surface  should  not  be  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  early 
morning  sun,  at  least  until  after  the  heat  of  the  day  has  caused  an 
evaporation  of  the  particles  of  moisture  remaining  on  the  leaves 
from  the  previous  night.  The  baking  out  of  the  soil  around  the  roots 
is  extremely  injurious  to  them.  If  this  soil  can  be  maintained  at  an 
even,  cool  temperature,  their  normal  growth  is  better  assured  during 
the  summer.  They  are  not  so  much  injured  because  of  the  cold,  but 
because  of  the  intense  sun  which  causes  evaporation  of  moisture  from 
the  leaves  at  a  time  when  the  ground  is  frozen  and  at  a  time  when  the 
plants  are  unable  to  replace  this  loss  of  moisture  by  additional  water 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  51 

taken  through  the  roots  from  the  soil.  This  condition  is  especially 
true  in  the  clay  loam  soils  of  the  middle  west. 

They  should  never  be  watered  with  any  water  which  contains  lime. 
This  is  equally  as  important  as  the  necessity  of  not  planting  rhodo- 
dendrons in  a  limestone  soil.  It  matters  not  how  much  the  soil  may  be 
changed  in  the  beds  or  how  much  leaf  mold  may  be  put  in  the  beds 
in  which  to  plant  rhododendrons  if  the  water  with  which  they  are 
frequently  soaked  comes  from  a  limestone  region. 

Rhododendrons  will  grow  in  any  good  garden  soil,  but  they  much 
prefer  a  soil  with  a  good  deal  of  humus  in  it,  and  they  should  be  thor- 
oughly mulched  with  leaf  mold  soil  which  should  never  be  cultivated, 
but  left  in  its  native  woodland  condition. 

TRANSPLANTING  ANNUALS.  It  is  preferable  to  transplant  annuals  in 
a  fine,  loose  loam,  and  never  to  transplant  them  in  a  heavier  clay  soil, 
which  will  pack  and  dry  out.  Upon  the  size  of  the  plants  will  depend 
the  care  that  it  is  necessary  to  give  them  immediately  after  trans- 
planting. The  smaller  the  plants  the  more  care  will  be  required  in 
careful  watering  and  shading  during  the  hot  portions  of  the  day. 
While  with  proper  care  annuals  may  be  transplanted  at  any  sea'son 
during  the  spring  or  early  summer,  yet  the  late  spring  (May  through 
June  1 5th)  is  preferred.  Annuals  will  develop  best  outdoors  if  they 
are  transplanted  at  least  two  weeks  in  advance  of  the  hot  summer 
months.  Frequent  shifting,  in  pots  or  flats,  is  very  beneficial  through 
promoting  the  growth  of  fibrous  roots  which  make  transplanting  more 
successful. 


CHAPTER  V 

LAWNS 

THE  first  part  of  this  chapter  treats  of  conditions  in  the  North  and 
the  second  part  of  the  chapter  treats  of  conditions  in  the  South. 

LAWNS  FOR  THE  NORTH 

PREPARATION  OF  LAWN  AREAS.  The  keynote  of  success  in  securing 
a  good  lawn  is  thorough  preparation  of  the  area  before  seeding.  Fail- 
ures are  almost  invariably  due  to  poor  preparation  rather  than  to  poor 
seed.  Grading  should  be  finished  with  a  view  to  seeding  either  in  the 
early  fall  or  spring.  Prepare  the  soil  thoroughly,  for  the  permanence 
of  the  sod  rests  entirely  on  this  initial  outlay.  The  soil  should  be  deep 
and  porous  to  produce  deep  rooting  of  the  turf,  which  means  success 
in  combating  winter-killing  and  drought.  For  the  ideal  lawn  the 
ground  must  be  prepared  to  a  depth  of  one  foot;  but  eighteen  inches  is 
preferable.  If  the  area  is  large  enough  it  should  be  plowed;  otherwise 
spading  must  be  resorted  to.  When  the  soil  is  naturally  good  and  there 
is  ample  topsoil  (six  inches  to  eight  inches)  deep  plowing  without  subsoil- 
ing  is  sufficient.  In  heavy  soils  the  clay  subsoil  should  be  broken  up 
but  not  brought  to  the  surface.  After  plowing,  if  the  area  is  large  enough 
to  permit  the  use  of  a  team,  the  soil  should  be  worked  fine  by  harrow- 
ing. Follow  this  operation  by  levelling  with  shovels  and  hoes,  and 
finally  with  rakes.  The  top  layer  of  soil  should  be  made  very  fine  to 
induce  quick  germination  of  seed  and  permanency  of  sod. 

The  average  lawn  to  which  the  author  refers  is  the  lawn  developed 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  residence.  If  building  operations  have 
extended  over  the  greater  portion  of  this  lawn  area,  as  is  general  on  the 
smaller  residence  lots,  then  all  of  the  topsoil  should  have  been  stripped 
and  placed  in  one  or  more  large  piles  prior  to  the  commencement  of  any 
building  operations.  In  the  preparation  of  a  lawn  area  under  such 
conditions  it  is  very  advisable  to  delay  actual  work  upon  this  area  until 
after  that  portion  of  the  building  operations  apt  to  cause  further  litter 
to  be  thrown  over  the  lawn  area  is  completed.  While  the  ideal  lawn 


LAWNS  53 

area  should  have  a  proper  depth  of  topsoil  in  which  the  feeding  roots  of 
grass  can  develop,  there  are  many  instances  where  for  purposes  of 
economy  or  otherwise  a  sufficient  depth  of  topsoil  is  not  provided. 

The  first  step  is  to  determine  the  depth  of  topsoil  which  is  to  be  finally 
spread  over  the  finished  subgrade  of  the  lawn.  The  less  the  depth  of 
topsoil  the  greater  will  be  the  cost  of  future  maintenance  over  a  period 
of  years  succeeding  the  first  year.  The  surface  of  the  finished  subgrade 
should  be  established  to  conform  with  the  finished  grade  of  the  lawn 
area  and  at  a  definite,  even  depth  below  this  finished  grade  of  this  lawn 
area.  No  topsoil  should  be  spread  over  this  subgrade  until  every  pre- 
caution has  been  taken  to  be  certain  that  an  excessive  depth  of  topsoil 
will  not  be  necessary  where  spots  of  extreme  depression  can  be  located 
in  the  surface  of  the  subgrade  and  previously  filled.  In  sections  of  the 
country  where  the  subsoil  consists  of  a  clay  loam  and  other  types  of 
heavy  soil  the  item  of  providing  topsoil  for  the  preparation  of  the  lawn 
area  is  one  of  the  most  expensive  items  in  the  landscape  development 
of  the  property.  Experience  has  shown  that  topsoil  is  one  of  the 
items  which  is  often  subjected  to  the  greatest  amount  of  waste,  and 
it  should  be  carefully  conserved  and  not  used,  in  any  instance,  except 
to  the  correct  depth  as  required. 

When  the  subgrade  is  completed  and  previous  to  the  application  of 
any  topsoil  it  is  often  well,  especially  on  types  of  clay  soil,  to  apply  a  coat- 
ing of  lime  at  the  rate  of  not  more  than  twenty-five  pounds  to  every 
1,000  square  feet.  On  the  top  of  this,  a  layer  of  well-rotted  manure  at 
the  rate  of  one  cubic  yard  for  every  five  hundred  square  feet  should  be 
applied.  The  lime  and  manure  should  then  be  spaded  or  harrowed  into 
this  finished  surface  of  the  subgrade  and  the  final  surface  smoothed  with 
shovels  or  rakes  before  the  final  layer  of  topsoil  is  applied.  This  thor- 
ough preparation  of  the  subgrade  is  much  more  essential  if  a  shallow 
depth  (two  inches  to  three  inches  of  topsoil)  is  to  be  used.  It  is  not  so 
essential  if  a  more  generous  depth  (four  inches  to  six  inches  of  topsoil) 
is  to  be  used. 

FERTILIZER  FOR  LAWN  PREPARATION.  In  the  preparation  of  a  lawn 
area  the  problem  of  correctly  fertilizing  this  area  is  an  important 
one.  On  the  less  fertile  and  poor  types  of  soil  a  liberal  application  of 
well-rotted  manure  together  with  lime  should  be  spread.  Manure 
should  be  used  at  the  rate  of  one  cubic  yard,  for  each  five  hundred  square 
feet  and  lime  should  be  used  at  the  rate  of  between  twelve  and  twenty- 


54  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

five  pounds  to  each  1,000  square  feet.  On  the  heavy  types  of  soil  this 
manure  should  be  of  a  light  texture  containing  sufficient  straw,  while  on 
the  sandy  soil  this  manure  should  be  of  a  heavy  texture  containing  a 
quantity  of  humus.  If  the  preparation  of  a  lawn  area  is  undertaken  at 
least  one  year  previous  to  the  time  that  the  actual  seeding  of  the  lawn  is 
to  be  done  then  the  heavy  types  of  soil  can  be  made  more  fertile  and 
more  porous  by  the  development,  during  each  spring  and  fall,  of  a  cover 
cr6p  of  clover,  cow  peas,  vetch,  or  rye.  The  deep  roots  of  these  plants 
and  the  frequent  cultivation  caused  by  plowing  them  under  will  do 
much  to  produce  a  mellow  and  friable  condition  of  the  soil.  On  the 
very  heavy  types  of  soil  the  frequent  mistake  is  made  of  spreading  a 
heavy  coating  of  well-rotted  manure  over  the  surface  of  the  proposed 
lawn  area  and  plowing  this  under  to  a  depth  of  ten  inches  to  twelve 
inches.  On  the  average  lawn  this  is  a  great  mistake,  and  a  consider- 
able waste  of  time  and  money.  Such  lawns  should  be  plowed  thor- 
oughly, the  soil  made  loose,  and  the  surface  pulverized  as  much  as  is 
practical  with  a  disc  harrow.  A  heavy  coating  of  manure  at  the  rate  of 
one  cubic  yard  to  one  and  one-half  cubic  yards  to  each  five  hundred 
square  feet  should  then  be  applied  and  harrowed  into  the  soil.  By  this 
method  the  available  food  in  the  fertilizer  is  within  reach  of  normal  root 
growth  of  grass  while  under  the  other  method  such  portions  of  the  ma- 
nure as  are  plowed  to  a  considerable  depth  (ten  inches  to  twelve  inches  at 
least)  are  beyond  the  reach  of  normal  root  growth  of  lawn  grasses  and 
soon  become  imbedded  in  a  heavy  soil  impervious  to  root  growth. 

On  the  average  lawn  a  top-dressing  of  manure  at  the  rate  of  one- 
half  to  three-fourths  cubic  yards  to  five  hundred  square  feet,  of  sheep 
manure  at  the  rate  of  five  pounds  for  each  one  hundred  square  feet  or  of 
bone  meal  at  the  rate  of  five  pounds  for  each  two  hundred  and  fifty 
square  feet,  should  be  applied  and  raked  into  the  surface  of  the  lawn. 
Manure,  whenever  used,  especially  in  the  preparation  of  lawns  in  the 
spring,  should  be  well  rotted  in  order  to  avoid  so  far  as  possible  the 
presence  of  persistent  weed  seeds  (such  weeds  as  grow  after  the  lawn  is 
seeded).  Bone  meal  and  the  types  of  dried  manures  commonly  pur- 
chased on  the  market  in  bags  do  not  bring  into  the  lawn  this  objec- 
tionable feature.  On  the  other  hand,  such  concentrated  fertilizers  do 
not  provide  the  humus  which  may  be  almost  as  essential  as  the  food 
contained  in  the  fertilizers. 

DRAINAGE  of  LAWN  AREA.    A  part  of  the  preparation  of  all  lawns 


LAWNS  55 

which  are  constructed  upon  the  heavy  types  of  soil  should  consist  of 
correct  drainage  in  order  to  secure  surface  conditions  conducive  to  the 
growth  of  good  lawn  grasses  and  to  provide  a  firm  texture  to  the 
lawn.  Subsoil  plowing  is  sometimes  done  with  the  object  of  correct- 
ing soil  water  conditions.  This  is  not  permanent,  however,  because 
the  soil  will  pack  down  again  within  a  few  years.  Before  the  topsoil 
is  applied  over  the  subgrade  all  necessary  tile  drainage  should  be 
installed  at  a  depth  averaging  from  twenty-four  inches  to  thirty  inches 
below  the  finished  grade  of  the  lawn  and  at  intervals  approximating 
from  fifteen  feet  to  twenty-five  feet  between  lines  of  tile.  This  interval 
often  depends  upon  the  expense  which  the  owner  feels  justified  in 
making  to  procure  an  ideal  lawn  surface. 

SEEDING  OF  LAWNS.  A  general  rule  is  to  sow  in  April  and  May;  or 
September  and  October  (See  Plate  III).  It  is  but  seldom  that  sowing 
in  June  or  July  is  successful.  If  sown  before  the  fall  rains,  grass 
should  become  sufficiently  developed  to  withstand  the  winter  weather. 
It  is  generally  preferable  to  sow  seed  in  the  fall.  If  the  soil  is  prop- 
erly prepared  in  the  fall,  seed  may  be  sown  on  a  light  fall  of  snow 
in  the  spring.  The  seed  will  sink  in  as  the  snow  melts  and  will  germi- 
nate very  quickly.  As  a  general  rule  a  lawn  seeded  in  the  fall  will 
develop  to  better  advantage  with  less  maintenance  cost  than  a  lawn 
seeded  in  the  spring,  because  any  weed  seed  present  in  the  grass  seed 
will  germinate  and  most  of  the  weeds  will  be  destroyed  during  the 
winter  months;  while  if  the  same  seed  is  sown  in  the  spring  it  is  neces- 
sary to  remove  these  weeds  by  pulling  them  before  they  go  to  seed. 
Seed  should  be  sown  at  the  rate  of  eighty  pounds  to  one  hundred  pounds 
to  the  acre,  or  one  quart  to  three  hundred  square  feet.  Always  sow 
thick.  Choose  a  day  when  the  soil  is  moist,  when  there  is  little  or  no 
wind,  and  when  the  weather  is  comparatively  cool.  Seed  is  scattered 
broadcast  by  hand,  and  the  hand  must  be  kept  low.  Go  over  the 
area  in  narrow  rectangular  sections  marked  out,  sowing  one-half  the 
seed;  then  repeat  the  process,  walking  at  right  angles  to  the  previous 
course  followed.  After  sowing,  the  ground  'should  be  raked  lightly 
and  rolled  thoroughly.  Very  young  grass  must  be  safeguarded  against 
drought  by  frequent  and  deep  watering. 

Wherever  lawns  are  to  be  developed  under  large  shade  trees,  such  as 
maples,  oaks,  beeches,  etc.,  great  care  should  be  used  and  the  work  of 
seeding  should  be  completed  at  the  earliest  possible  date  in  the  fall. 


56  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

It  is  not  practicable  to  seed  lawns  late  in  the  fall  where  large  trees  drop 
leaves  which  if  not  removed  within  one  or  two  days  are  apt  to  smother 
the  young  grass.  This  is  an  important  point  to  keep  in  mind. 

The  best  grass  generally  for  the  foundation  of  a  lawn,  except  on  acid 
soil,  is  Kentucky  blue  grass.  This  does  not  fully  mature  until  the 
third  year.  It  is  better,  therefore,  to  use  Kentucky  blue  grass  in  a 
mixture.  Other  grasses  such  as  redtop  and  the  creeping  bents  will 
produce  a  quicker  effect  and  will  keep  out  the  weeds  until  the  blue  grass 
is  fully  established.  Kentucky  blue  grass  during  the  first  year  grows 
thinly,  and  continues  to  become  thicker  with  successive  mowings. 
When  it  is  fully  established  it  will  crowd  out  some  of  the  less  per- 
manent grasses  in  the  mixture.  The  ideal  lawn  is  one  composed 
mostly  of  blue  grass  and  it  is  also  the  most  difficult  to  establish. 
Many  people  who  wish  to  develop  a  good  lawn  in  a  short  space  of 
time  resort  to  the  use  of  a  considerable  portion  of  white  clover.  Clover 
is  of  no  real  value  in  the  making  of  a  fine  lawn  other  than  that  it  helps 
to  produce  a  quick  effect,  thereby  crowding  out  many  early  weeds,  and 
that  it  produces  a  soft  carpet  effect  with  little  difficulty,  where  the 
process  of  establishing  a  permanent  lawn  of  blue  grass  might  be  slow. 

The  immediate  development  of  a  carpet  of  green  over  the  surface 
of  a  lawn  area  is  no  indication  that  a  permanent  lawn  has  been  es- 
tablished. The  construction  of  a  permanent  lawn  which  requires  only 
a  normal  expense  in  future  maintenance  involves  not  only  the  question 
of  selection  of  grass  seed  of  permanent  types  but  also  questions  of  ade- 
quate drainage,  especially  on  heavy  types  of  soil,  and  thorough  prepara- 
tion of  the  subsoil  and  the  topsoil  as  a  foundation  of  the  lawn.  Un- 
fortunately many  persons  ignorant  of  the  real  requirements  of  a 
permanent  lawn  give  much  credit  to  those  persons  who  are  able,  by  the 
use  of  quick  growing  and  temporary  types  of  grass  seed  together  with 
clover  seed,  and  quick-acting  fertilizers  such  as  sheep  manure  (which 
soon  releases  all  of  its  food  value  and  leaves  the  lawn  in  an  unfertile 
condition),  to  succeed  in  producing  an  immediate  effect  of  greensward 
in  a  remarkably  short  time.  The  permanent  and  desirable  types  of 
grasses  will  not  develop  within  such  a  short  period,  and  lawns  of  this 
temporary  character,  while  exceedingly  satisfactory  during  the  first 
year,  will  usually  prove  unsatisfactory  and  expensive  in  their  main- 
tenance cost  during  the  succeeding  years.  Not  only  do  certain  types 
of  grasses  die  out  due  to  the  nature  of  the  grass  and  the  lack  of  proper 
food  supply  but  the  lawn  is  seriously  injured  during  the  hot  summer 


LAWNS  57 

because  of  the  shallow  depth  of  topsoil  that  causes  feeding  roots  to 
remain  near  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

The  various  grass  mixtures  on  the  market  vary  in  quality  rather 
than  in  kind.  It  is  inadvisable  to  buy  poor  seed.  Many  mixtures 
contain  a  large  percentage  of  "chaff,"  and  some  mixtures  contain  more 
or  less  weed  seed.  It  is  highly  desirable  that  any  one  responsible  for 
the  development  of  a  good  lawn  should  be  able  to  identify  the  im- 
portant types  of  good  seed  in  lawn  mixtures.  Of  the  various  grass 
seeds  used  the  fescue  and  the  clovers  produce  a  quick  effect  during 
the  first  year. 

The  most  common  and  satisfactory  lawn  seed  mixture  for  the  northern 
states  is  sixteen  parts  by  weight  of  Kentucky  blue  grass,  four  parts  of 
recleaned  redtop,  and  one  part  of  white  clover.  It  should  be  used  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  to  each  three  hundred  square  feet  of  lawn  or  one 
hundred  and  twenty  pounds  per  acre.  The  Kentucky  blue  grass  is 
adapted  to  the  northeastern  states  and  the  northwestern  coast.  It  thrives 
on  limy  soil  and  will  occasionally  grow  on  land  devoid  of  lime  if  the 
drainage  is  extra  good.  It  makes  a  dense,  vivid  green  turf  except  during 
midsummer  when  it  is  adversely  affected  by  hot  weather.  It  should 
not  be  confused  with  Canada  blue  grass  which  produces  a  tough  but  not 
dense  or  attractive  turf  and  sometimes  succeeds  where  the  soil  is  too 
thin  for  Kentucky  blue  grass.  Redtop  succeeds  under  a  very  large  range 
of  soil  conditions,  from  drought  to  wet  land.  It  is  one  of  the  best  grasses 
for  poor  soils  throughout  the  whole  of  the  eastern  United  States  and  thus 
succeeds  where  blue  grass  fails.  It  does  not  make  a  dense  turf  unless 
planted  thickly  and  mowed  closely.  ,White  clover  as  a  turf  plant 
succeeds  on  poor  soils,  forms  a  dense,  close  mat,  and  stands  mowing 
well.  If  Kentucky  blue  grass  is  sown  alone  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 
per  acre  are  required  and  liming  is  beneficial.  If  redtop  is  seeded  alone 
forty  pounds  of  fancy  "recleaned"  seed  per  acre  are  sufficient  and  no 
lime  is  needed.  Clover  is  never  sown  in  a  clean  stand  but  may  be  sown 
with  or  after  grass  seed  at  the  rate  of  ten  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 

For  a  fine  turf  similar  to  putting  greens,  useChewing's  or  New  Zealand 
red  fescue,  which  is  a  grass  having  a  dark  green  colour  and  which  makes 
a  solid,  compact  turf.  It  is  particularly  adapted  to  sowing  on  sandy 
loam  soil  but  succeeds  well  on  clay  loam  or  even  on  clays.  When  seeded 
alone  one  hundred  pounds  per  acre  should  be  used.  It  is  the  best  lawn 
grass  for  growing  in  the  shade  under  American  conditions.  Another 
fine-leaved  grass  making  a  dense,  velvety  turf  is  creeping  bent.  It  does 


58  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

best  where  the  summers  are  cool  and  moist;  that  is,  in  the  northeastern 
states  and  on  the  northwest  coast.  When  the  soil  is  limy,  other 
grasses,  such  as  blue  grass  and  white  clover,  tend  to  crowd  out  creeping 
bent.  It  should  be  sown  alone  except  that  combined  with  red  fescue 
it  will  be  satisfactory  for  a  few  years,  after  which  the  two  grasses  tend 
to  separate  and  make  circular  mats. 

There  are  standard  mixtures  on  the  market  offered  by  the  more 
reliable  firms  for  special  uses  such  as  on  golf  greens,  fairways,  and 
shady  locations. 

In  the  section  south  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  except  in  the  higher 
altitudes,  it  is  not  advisable  to  use  Kentucky  blue  grass.  White 
clover,  in  this  section  of  the  country,  becomes  the  prevailing  grass  in 
lawns.  In  the  northern  part  of  this  area,  white  clover,  redtop,  and 
Rhode  Island  bent  make  an  excellent  lawn,  but  not  a  lawn  as  per- 
manent in  character  as  the  northern  turf. 

SODDING.  Sodding  instead  of  seeding  has  the  following  advantages: 
(i)  grass  of  a  known  texture  can  be  obtained;  (2)  an  immediate  stand  of 
grass  is  secured;  (3)  sod  can  be  laid  at  any  season  except  when  the  ground 
is  frozen.  The  disadvantages,  however,  are  quite  numerous:  (i)  a 
seeded  lawn  is  as  good  and  generally  is  better  within  a  year;  (2) 
the  expense  of  sodding  a  lawn  is  great;  (3)  it  is  usually  difficult 
to  procure  good  sod;  (4)  sod  will  heave  on  heavy  soils  if  laid  too 
late  in  the  fall;  (5)  it  is  difficult  to  get  perfect  unions  between  sods. 
Sod  is  generally  used  along  the  edges  of  walks,  borders,  banks,  and 
close  to  buildings,  when  seeding  an  area;  and  also  on  areas  such  as 
terraces  and  laundry  yards  which  are  to  be  used  immediately.  The 
preparation  of  a  lawn  for  sodding  is  the  same  as  for  seeding.  Sod 
should  be  laid  on  a  firm  foundation;  that  is,  the  soil  should  be  thor- 
oughly tamped  before  any  sod  is  placed  upon  it.  The  best  sod  is 
secured  from  pastures  which  are  on  a  heavy  type  of  soil.  Pasture 
turf  is  cropped  and  therefore  forms  a  dense  growth  which  can  be 
removed  in  thin  layers.  Cut  the  sod  about  one  and  one-half  inches 
thick,  twelve  inches  wide,  and  three  feet  long.  A  foot-wide  board 
should  be  laid  on  the  turf  and  the  strips  cut  along  either  side  with  an 
edger.  The  sod  is  lifted  with  a  spade  or  preferably  with  a  turfing 
iron.  The  strips  are  rolled  up,  grass  side  in,  and  should  be  relaid  as 
soon  as  possible.  When  laying  sod,  fill  the  junctions  with  fine  soil 
and  then  beat  it  down  with  the  back  of  a  spade  or  with  a  sod  pounder, 


LAWNS  59 

remembering  that  it  cannot  be  pounded  too  hard.     After  being  laid, 
sod  must  be  cared  for  carefully  throughout  the  summer. 

LAWNS  FOR  THE  SOUTH 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS.  The  extreme  heat  and  the  long 
dry  spells  during  the  summer  months  throughout  the  southern  states 
make  it  inadvisable  to  try  to  establish  a  turf  similar  to  the  turf  of  the 
northern  lawns,  composed  mostly  of  Kentucky  blue  grass,  redtop, 
clovers,  and  bents.  These  grasses,  when  used  in  the  south  for  a  lawn 
turf,  will  completely  burn  out  during  the  summer  months  unless  an 
abnormal  amount  of  labour  is  employed  to  protect  them  by  excessive 
waterings.  While  in  the  northern  section  of  the  country  lawns  in 
general  are  developed  on  good  loam  or  topsoil,  the  soil  conditions  of  the 
south  are  somewhat  different.  The  soil  throughout  the  south,  es- 
pecially in  Florida,  is  generally  known  as  yellow  or  clay  sand  on  which 
lawns  can  be  developed  with  the  least  difficulty,  and  the  white  sand 
which  contains  little  or  no  plant  food  and  on  which  no  satisfactory 
lawn  can  be  developed  without  the  addition  of  a  considerable  quantity 
of  muck.  The  "topsoil"  sand,  so-called,  often  possesses  a  considerable 
quantity  of  food  matter;  but  the  ease  with  which  water  drains  from  it 
combined  with  the  heat  of  summer  will  cause  the  northern  types  of 
grasses  to  burn  out  and  also  will  kill  many  of  the  southern  types  of 
grasses. 

To  one  who  has  been  accustomed  to  the  sharp  line  of  differentia- 
tion between  the  topsoils  and  subsoils  of  the  north  the  problem  of 
drawing  a  definite  line  between  the  topsoil  and  subsoil  under  the  condi- 
tions of  the  far  south  is  somewhat  puzzling.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  on  all 
soils,  with  the  exception  of  a  good  type  of  muck  soil  coming  from  the 
swampy  areas  and  the  hammock  land,  no  good  lawn  can  be  developed 
without  the  addition  of  considerable  fertilizer. 

In  the  north  the  value  of  a-  lawn  continues  only  during  the  growing 
season,  from  April  until  October.  In  the  south,  especially  through- 
out the  section  visited  by  many  of  the  northern  tourists,  temperature 
conditions  are  favourable  for  the  growing  of  a  lawn  throughout  the 
entire  winter.  It  is  therefore  desirable  to  have  types  of  grasses 
for  the  development  of  lawn  areas  both  during  the  winter  months  and 
the  summer  months.  The  excessive  cost  of  maintaining  a  good  turf 
on  lawn  areas  during  the  hot  and  dry  summer  months  has  discouraged 
the  development  of  extensive  lawn  areas  as  seen  in  the  northern  states, 


60  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

except  on  golf  courses,  where  the  fairways  and  greens  are  maintained 
regardless  of  normal  cost. 

Little  experimenting  has  been  done  in  the  far  south  to  determine 
individual  types  or  combinations  of  types  of  northern  grasses  which 
will  thrive  best  under  these  climatic  conditions  both  during  the  winter 
months  and  the  summer  months. 

TYPES  OF  GRASSES  FOR  LAWNS.  There  are  three  groups  of  grasses 
which  are  used  for  the  development  of  lawns  in  the  far  south  (through- 
out Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Florida).  The  first  group  consists  of  the 
more  or  less  native  grasses,  Bermuda  grass,  St.  Augustine  grass,  and 
blanket  or  carpet  grass.  These  grasses  will  not  make  a  perfect  turf 
as  a  "perfect  turf"  is  known  in  the  northern  states.  They  grow 
vigorously  and  spread  rapidly  when  the  temperature  does  not  fall 
below  50  or  55  degrees.  The  second  group,  of  which  Ross's  Southern 
Mixture  is  typical,  is  composed  of  types  of  northern  grasses,  such  as 
orchard  grass,  Rhode  Island  bent,  redtop,  and  a  small  portion  of 
Italian  rye,  which  as  a  result  of  experiments  have  produced  good 
turf  on  southern  lawns.  The  third  group  is  made  up  of  Italian  rye, 
which  germinates  quickly  and  produces  a  green  turf  and  lives  for  but 
a  short  period  during  the  cooler  winter  months.  It  burns  out  quickly 
during  the  hot  summer  months. 

TYPES  OF  SOILS.  In  the  preparation  and  development  of  lawn 
areas,  especially  on  virgin  soil,  the  land  must  be  cleared  and  the  stumps 
removed.  It  is  preferable  that  stumps  should  either  be  pulled  out 
by  tractor  or  team,  chopped  out,  or  in  the  instance  of  pine  lands,  they 
should  be  burned  out.  The  operation  of  blasting  stumps,  in  order  to 
remove  them,  leaves  a  considerable  hole,  which,  when  filled  with  loose 
soil,  however  thoroughly  tamped,  may  cause  a  depression  in  the  lawn 
on  account  of  later  settling.  After  the  land  is  cleared  and  the  stumps 
are  removed,  the  lawn  is  brought  to  an  even  grade,  and  unless  the  soil 
is  a  rich  yellow  "topsoil"  sand,  it  is  advisable  to  spread  a  layer  of  muck, 
averaging  from  two  to  four  inches  in  depth,  over  the  entire  lawn  area. 
A  deeper  covering  of  muck  would  be  better.  The  cost  of  excessive 
"mucking"  is  often  the  determining  factor.  This  muck,  which  usually 
comes  from  the  swamps,  should  be  selected  with  great  care.  Not 
all  so-called  "muck"  soil  in  swamps  is  adapted  for  use  on  lawns. 
It  is  often  the  case  that  swamp  muck  put  on  a  high,  dry,  and  sandy 


LAWNS  61 

soil  will,  under  the  sun's  rays,  quickly  dry  out  and  become  pow- 
dery. It  is  best  to  obtain,  if  possible,  a  sandy  muck  or  black  soil 
of  a  vegetable  nature  and  not  of  a  woody  nature.  This  can  be  obtained 
from  the  edges  of  the  hammock  lands.  This  type  of  muck  does  not 
dry  out.  Good  muck,  taken  from  the  upper  layers  of  swamp  areas, 
ought  to  be  mixed  thoroughly  with  a  generous  amount  of  lime  and  the 
entire  mixture  ought  to  remain  for  two  or  three  months  before  it  is 
applied  to  the  lawn  area.  The  mucks  to  be  avoided  are  the  woody  and 
very  sour  types. 

PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  LAWNS.  The  season  for  making  a  lawn 
varies  with  the  kind  of  a  lawn  which  is  desired,  and  also  with  the 
season  of  the  year  when  the  lawn  is  to  be  used.  Especially  in  the  far 
southern  states,  some  lawns  may  be  intended  for  use  and  enjoyment 
throughout  the  entire  year,  while  another  group  of  lawns  may  be  in- 
tended to  be  at  their  best  during  the  winter  months. 

With  the  lawn  developed  from  Bermuda  grass  or  St.  Augustine  grass 
the  period  required  for  the  development  of  a  good  turf  averages  from 
three  months  to  four  months.  Therefore,  if  a  lawn  of  this  type  is  to  be 
developed  as  a  lawn  to  be  maintained  throughout  the  entire  year 
the  Bermuda  grass  or  St.  Augustine  grass  can  be  planted  at  any 
time.  The  ideal  time  just  prior  to  the  rainy  season  in  June  or 
July  should  be  selected  so  that  the  roots  of  this  grass  can  have  the 
benefit  of  the  heavy  rains.  If  a  lawn  of  this  character  is  to  be  developed 
as  an  asset  to  a  distinctly  winter  home,  and  artificial  watering  condi- 
tions are  immediately  available,  the  Bermuda  grass  or  St.  Augustine 
grass  can  be  planted  at  any  time  during  the  growing  season.  It  is  not 
advisable  to  plant  either  of  these  grasses  during  the  winter  months  from 
December  to  February  when  temperature  conditions  are  apt  to  be 
so  low  that  growth  is  not  encouraged.  On  the  other  hand,  Italian 
rye,  which  is  distinctly  a  grass  for  winter  lawns,  cannot  be  seeded 
to  advantage  in  the  summer  months  from  April  to  October. 

Lawns  composed  of  Italian  rye  may  be  seeded  at  any  time  of  the 
year  from  the  first  of  November  to  the  first  of  March.  The  time  re- 
quired for  Italian  rye  to  establish  itself,  and  to  produce  a  green  lawn 
area,  averages  from  three  to  five  weeks.  An  excellent  way  in  which  to 
obtain  a  green  lawn  during  the  winter  months  is  to  seed  a  Bermuda 
grass  lawn,  which  is  at  least  three  months  old,  with  Italian  rye  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  for  every  one  hundred  square  feet.  In  the  middle  and 


62  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

southern  portions  of  Florida  this  is  perhaps  the  most  satisfactory 
method  of  making  a  good  turf  which  will  be  more  or  less  firm  and  which 
will  be  green  through  the  winter  months.  Italian  rye  will  burn  out  as 
soon  as  the  weather  begins  to  get  warmer  during  the  middle  or  latter 
part  of  March,  and  can  be  reseeded  on  the  foundation  of  Bermuda 
grass,  in  the  same  manner,  during  the  succeeding  fall. 

Lawns  composed  of  the  northern  mixtures  of  grass  seed,  of  which 
the  Ross's  Southern  Mixture  is  typical,  can  be  seeded  at  any  time 
during  the  cooler  months  between  November  and  March.  These 
lawns  may  be  maintained  in  the  same  manner  that  any  northern  lawn 
is  maintained  if  an  excessive  amount  of  care  in  watering  is  devoted  to 
them  during  the  hot  summer  months.  It  is  preferable  to  reseed  each 
season.  This  type  of  lawn  is  prepared  and  seeded  in  a  manner  similar 
to  the  lawns  of  the  north  and  will  establish  itself  under  normal  condi- 
tions in  a  period  ranging  from  four  to  six  weeks.  This  seed  is  sown  at 
the  rate  of  one  pound  for  each  two  hundred  square  feet  of  lawn  area. 
The  operation  of  seeding  lawns  with  mixtures  of  northern  seed 
adapted  for  southern  use,  and  also  with  Italian  rye,  is  the  same  as 
sowing  seed  for  the  development  of  lawns  in  the  north. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  try  to  develop  Bermuda  grass  and  St.  Augustine 
grass  lawns  through  seeding.  A  better  lawn  can  be  obtained  with  less 
difficulty  by  planting  small  clumps  of  Bermuda  grass  and  St.  Augustine 
grass  (Plate  VIII)  in  little  drills  ten  inches  or  twelve  inches  apart  or  by 
staggering  at  intervals  of  twelve  inches  to  eighteen  inches.  The  greater 
the  desire  to  have  a  close  mat  of  Bermuda  grass  or  St.  Augustine  grass 
the  closer  should  the  individual  roots  be  planted.  For  small  lawn 
areas,  tees  and  greens  on  golf  courses  where  the  time  is  short  in  which 
to  develop  a  good  turf,  these  roots  or  clumps  may  be  planted  as  close 
as  six  inches  from  each  other.  The  usual  method  is  to  find  a  patch  al- 
ready growing.  The  best  method  of  gathering  Bermuda  grass  is  to  dig 
underneath  the  roots  with  a  grub  axe  or  mattock  and  to  gather  up  the 
roots  with  some  type  of  a  fork,  such  as  a  potato  fork.  As  much  soil  as 
possible  should  be  taken  up  with  the  roots,  where  the  grass  is 
naturally  in  rich,  fertile  soil;  otherwise  the  soil  can  be  shaken  from 
the  roots.  The  best  method  of  handling  these  roots  is  to  place  the 
entire  mass  in  potato  sacks,  especially  if  the  source  of  gathering  the 
grass  is  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  place  where  the  lawn  is 
being  made.  Just  previous  to  planting,  the  grass  should  be  either 
torn  apart  leaving  roots  and  tops  on  the  same  stem,  or  it  should  be 


PLATE  XI.  The  list  of  evergreens  adapted  to  soil  and  to  climatic  condi- 
tions of  the  middle-west,  and  valuable  for  low,  refined,  mass  plantings  is 
limited.  The  upper  photograph  shows  an  effect  produced  by  the  use  of  dwarf 
yew,  Pfitzers  and  tamarisk-leaved  junipers,  Mugho  pines  and  Japanese  spurge 
edging.  The  lower  photograph  shows  the  effectiveness  of  masses  of  low,  re- 
fined evergreens  against  massive  architecture.  (See  page  114) 


LAWNS  63 

chopped  into  small  sections.     The  first  method  is  preferable.     These 
sections  of  roots  or  small  clumps  are  planted  from  three  to  six  inches 
deep;  more  shallow  if  the  soil  is  moist.     Shallow  planting  should  be 
adopted  only  where  ideal  conditions  exist  for  keeping  the  soil  moist. 
It  requires  approximately  three  cubic  yards  of  these  roots  to  plant 
one  acre  of  lawn.     If  the  roots  are  contained  in  two  and  one  half 
bushel  sacks  it  will  require  from  one  hundred  and  forty  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  of  these  sacks  filled  with  Bermuda  grass  roots  to  plant 
one  acre  of  lawn,  or  approximately  one  sack  for  each  two  hundred  and 
twenty-five  square  feet.     These  roots  of  Bermuda  grass  or  St.  Augustine 
grass  should  not  be  permitted  to  dry  out,  either  while  piled  waiting  for 
shipment  or  while  in  transit  to  the  place  where  the  lawn  is  being  made. 
Injury  from  the  drying  out  of  the  roots  of  these  plants  between  the 
time  they  are  dug  and  the  time  they  are  planted  is  not  nearly  so 
serious  as  the  injury  caused  by  heating  or  sweating  while  the  plants 
are  still  in  the  sacks.     If  these  plants  are  allowed  to  heat  or  sweat  they 
immediately  turn  yellow,  begin  to  rot  and  die.     Any  plants  that  have 
been  subjected  to  this   heating  or  sweating  process  should  not  be 
planted.     If  the  lawn  which  is  to  be  developed  is  large,  then  a  simple 
method  of  planting  these  grasses  is  to  spread  them  broadcast  over  the 
ground  and  to  disc  the  roots  in  with  a  harrow,  or  to  plow  a  shallow 
furrow  and  plant  the  roots  in  the  furrows.     The  discing  process  has 
sometimes  proved  a  failure.     It  requires  approximately  twice  as  much 
grass  and  roots  as  the  planting  in  furrows,  in  order  to  get  the  same  stand 
of  grass.     It  is  a  process,  however,  which  can  well  be  adopted  where  an 
immediate  even  stand  of  grass  is  not  essential.     This  is  true  because  in 
the  process  of  planting  in  furrows  the  grass  can  be  more  evenly  dis- 
tributed at  a  shallow  depth  while  in  the  discing  process  most  of  the 
grass  finds  itself  at  a  considerable  depth,  thus  requiring  more  time  for 
the  grass  to  reach  the  surface. 

The  Italian  rye  lasts  only  during  one  season.  The  Bermuda  grass 
and  St.  Augustine  grass  will  make  a  lawn  nearly  as  permanent  as 
any  northern  lawn,  provided  the  proper  maintenance  and  attention 
in  rolling  and  watering  is  given.  Lawns  of  these  types  should  be 
watered  at  least  once  in  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  at  which  intervals 
they  should  be  thoroughly  soaked.  In  order  to  maintain  a  Bermuda 
grass  lawn  in  its  best  condition  the  lawn  should  go  through  the  process 
of  renovation  every  second  or  third  year.  This  process  consists  of  a 
discing,  done  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  the  roots  and  producing  new 


64  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

stoloniferous  growth.  The  harrow  should  be  permitted  to  cut  this 
ground  to  a  considerable  depth,  so  as  to  encourage  new  root  growth  as 
well  as  a  deeper  root  growth.  Probably  the  average  depth  which  the 
harrow  cuts  approximates  from  two  to  four  inches.  The  ideal  harrow 
for  this  purpose  is  known  as  the  alfalfa  renovator  which  is  used  for 
the  purpose  of  cutting  a  deep  furrow  into  the  soil  rather  than 
disturbing  the  soil. 

If  the  lawn  area  is  composed  of  a  combination  of  Bermuda  grass 
and  Italian  rye,  or  of  a  southern  mixture  of  northern  grass  seed,  it 
should  be  thoroughly  soaked  with  water  as  often  as  once  every  two  days. 
Superficial  watering  under  conditions  of  hot  sun  and  dry  climate  is 
more  injurious  to  the  southern  lawn  than  a  similar  watering  would  be 
to  a  northern  lawn.  Where  an  excellent  lawn  turf  is  desired  from 
November  to  April,  it  is  much  preferable  to  top  dress  the  Bermuda 
grass  foundation  with  a  thin  coating  of  muck,  or  rich  soil,  and  to  seed 
each  fall  with  Italian  rye  as  a  filler.  If  a  lawn  of  northern  grasses  is  to  be 
maintained  from  November  to  April,  experience  to  date  has  taught  us 
that"  the  most  practical  method  is  that  of  reseeding  the  entire  lawn 
area  during  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  October,  or  early  November, 
rather  than  to  expend  the  labour  necessary  to  maintain  a  turf  during 
the  hot  summer  months  when  it  is  not  used. 


CHAPTER  VI 
BULB  CULTURE 

CHARACTERISTICS  OF  BULBS.  A  bulb  is  a  large  dormant  bud,  and  is 
a  condensed  plant  when  dormant.  Bulbs  can  develop  only  flowers 
which  were  formed  within  them  before  they  were  ripened.  The 
dormant  period  of  a  bulb  occurs  in  order  to  carry  it  over  the  dry  or 
cold  season. 

A  good  bulb  must  be  fully  developed,  in  good  soil,  and  under  good 
conditions.  It  must  be  kept  from  heating,  sweating,  or  rotting  in 
transit,  and  must  not  be  kept  out  of  the  ground  so  long  as  to  dry 
out  to  an  injurious  extent.  When  buying  bulbs  always  take  into 
consideration  that  cheap  bulbs  are  invariably  poor  bulbs  and  that 
size  alone  does  not  count,  but  adds  to  the  probability  that  the  bulb  is 
mature.  Plump,  solid  bulbs  give  the  best  blooms,  and  if  to  this  is 
added  size,  the  bulb  is  ideal. 

There  are  two  groups  of  bulbs:  those  which  should  be  planted 
in  the  fall  to  produce  flowers  in  the  spring,  such  as  tulips,  narcissi, 
and  crocuses,  and  those  which  should  be  planted  in  the  spring  to  pro- 
duce flowers  in  the  summer  and  early  fall,  such  as  gladioli.  (In 
botanical  science  in  the  case  of  the  gladiolus  the  term  is  "corm"  rather 
than  "bulb.") 

TIME  FOR  PLANTING  BULBS.  Nothing  is  gained  by  planting  spring- 
•flowering  bulbs,  such  as  tulips,  narcissi,  crocuses,  hyacinths,  squills, 
and  Spanish  irises,  before  September  or  October.  The  reason  for 
planting,  then,  is  that  they  keep  better  in  the  ground,  and  as  they  start 
to  root  in  the  fall  they  begin  growth  earlier  in  the  spring.  It  is  hardly 
possible  to  plant  bulbs  of  this  group  early  enough  in  the  spring  to  secure 
any  flowers  the  same  season.  These  bulbs  should  be  planted  not 
earlier  than  six  weeks  before  the  hard  frosts.  Narcissi  may  be  planted 
earlier,  and  it  is  preferable  to  plant  crocuses  early.  Crocuses  are 
usually  planted  in  the  lawn.  An  early  bloom  is  desirable;  therefore 
early  September  planting  permits  root  growth  in  the  fall  and  the 

65 


66  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

flowers  mature  and  pass  before  the  grass  requires  cutting.  Bulbs,  in 
order  to  make  some  root  growth  in  the  fall,  should  not  be  planted  very 
late.  Autumn-flowering  sorts,  such  as  the  colchicum  and  the  saffron 
crocus,  may  be  planted  in  August  or  early  September,  if  well  protected, 
but  if  planted  in  the  spring  should  be  set  out  after  danger  from  frost  is 
past.  Narcissi  and  hyacinths  are  planted  preferably  early  in  October, 
while  tulips,  particularly  the  late-blooming,  may  wait  till  November. 
If  the  ground  begins  to  freeze  hard  before  the  bulbs  can  be  planted  it 
should  be  kept  warm  by  a  litter  of  straw  or  leaves.  Such  a  blanket 
spread  over  frozen  ground  early  in  the  winter  will  enable  the  heat 
within  the  earth  to  thaw  it  out  and  permit  quite  late  planting.  If 
bulbs  are  planted  late  it  is  well  to  cover  them  with  mulch  at  once  in 
order  that  root  growth  may  be  made  before  the  cold  prevents  it.  If 
the  bulbs  are  planted  early  in  the  fall,  however,  the  mulch  should  be 
applied  only  after  the  ground  has  been  frozen  to  a  depth  of  several 
inches.  Thus  excessive  top  growth  will  not  start  prematurely. 
Gladiolus  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  the  spring  after  the  fro  sts  are  over. 
The  period  required  for  such  bulbs  to  mature  is  about  ninety  days. 
Therefore,  a  succession  of  bloom  can  be  obtained  by  planting  at 
intervals  of  ten  days  or  two  weeks.  Under  expert  care,  in  well-drained 
soils  and  with  sufficient  protection,  many  gladiolus  bulbs  can  be 
planted  in  the  fall  and  thereby  insure  a  very  much  earlier  bloom  in  the 
summer.  This  should  at  first  be  tried  only  with  extreme  caution, 
and  the  plants  will  need  protection  from  spring  frosts. 

SOIL  AND  DRAINAGE  REQUIREMENTS.  Bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a 
well-drained,  deep,  rich  soil  in  order  to  develop  successfully.  In  wet 
soils  put  a  handful  of  sand  under  each  bulb  to  keep  the  water  away 
from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  bulbs.  In  wet  locations  the  beds 
should  be  raised.  Hyacinths  require  a  sandy  soil  and  soon  become 
diseased  in  heavy  soils.  Few  lilies  will  succeed  in  limestone  soil. 
Lilies  require  extra  good  drainage  and  rich  soil.  Some  will  do  well  in 
heavy  soil,  as  the  madonna  lily  and  the  tiger  lily.  It  is  best  to  sur- 
round lily  bulbs  with  sand,  and  where  drainage  is  not  ideal,  plant  the 
bulbs  on  one  side  so  that  water  may  not  collect  in  the  heart  of  the  bulb. 

FERTILIZERS  FOR  BULBS.  No  fresh  manure  should  ever  touch  a 
bulb,  but  well-rotted  manure  may  be  incorporated  deep  in  the  soil 
before  planting  with  the  best  of  results.  The  manure  should  be  ac- 


BULB  CULTURE  67 

cessible  to  the  feeding  roots  but  be  kept  away  from  the  bulb.  Do  not 
use  manure  at  all  unless  the  bed  is  excavated  to  a  depth  that  makes 
it  possible  to  spade  the  manure  in  below  the  level  on  which  the  bulbs 
are  to  rest.  Tulips  are  less  apt  to  be  injured  by  manure  than  are 
narcissi.  For  planting  with  a  trowel  or  dibble,  bone  meal  only  should 
be  used.  Leaf  mold  and  sand  should  be  added  to  heavy  soils.  Bone 
meal  used  with  bulbs  tends  to  increase  the  size  of  the  blooms.  Liquid 
manure,  added  liberally  when  the  plants  are  budding,  has  often  given 
excellent  results.  To  increase  the  development  of  new  bulblets  and 
especially  of  gladioli,  a  fertilizer  containing  a  large  percentage  of 
potash  is  desirable. 

DEPTH  FOR  PLANTING  BULBS.  Unless  a  bed  of  bulbs  is  planted  at 
uniform  depth  they  will  not  bloom  uniformly.  It  is  a  good  practice  to 
excavate  a  bed  to  a  given  depth,  place  the  bulbs  as  desired  over  the 
bottom,  and  then  cover  all  to  the  same  depth,  thus  making  certain 
that  they  are  evenly  planted.  The  larger  and  stronger  bulbs  are, 
the  deeper  they  may  be  planted.  They  may  be  planted  deeper  in 
sandy  soil  than  in  heavy  clay  soil.  A  general  rule  for  planting  depth  is 
three  times  the  average  diameter  of  the  bulb.  Bulbs  are  frequently 
planted  too  shallow.  For  depths  at  which  to  plant  bulbs,  also 
distances  apart,  see  "Bulb  Table"  (Plate  IX,  Page  46).  -When 
planted  in  holes  made  with  a  dibble,  put  loose  dirt  or  sand  in 
the  bottom  of  the  hole  to  avoid  air  space.  Planting  with  trowel  or 
dibble,  however,  should  not  be  done  where  uniform  show  beds  are 
desired.  For  lawns,  bulbs  may  be  dibbled  in,  but  it  is  better  to  cut 
the  sod  and  press  back  after  planting.  This  is  done  in  the  fall  when 
lawns  are  soft  from  rains. 

MULCHING  BULBS.  Bulbs  lie  dormant,  to  all  appearances,  over 
winter,  and  should  be'  thoroughly  mulched  to  insure  that  they  do  not 
start  to  grow  in  any  unseasonable  warm  spell  of  weather,  and  also  in 
order  to  prevent  heaving.  Mulch  with  straw  or  leaves  to  a  depth  of 
four  inches  to  six  inches,  but  do  not  add  this  mulch  too  early;  wait 
till  a  fairly  thick  crust  has  been  frozen  over  the  ground.  Lilies  always 
require  heavy  protection  and  will  succeed  better  in  partial  shade. 
Remove  the  mulch  or  litter  in  spring  before  warm  weather  and  after 
damage  from  freezing  is  past.  The  coarse  part  of  the  mulch  should 
be  picked  off  carefully,  care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the  tops  of 


68  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

the  bulbs.     The  finer  pieces  of  mulch  may  be  worked  into  the  soil,  if 
the  cultivating  is  done  cautiously. 

REPRODUCTION  OF  BULBS.  Many  bulbs,  like  the  varieties  of  crocus 
and  certain  varieties  of  narcissi,  will  continue  to  multiply  by  devel- 
oping small  bulblets  and  in  that  way  produce  a  flower  effect  for 
a  considerable  number  of  years.  Other  bulbs,  like  certain  varieties 
of  the  tulips  and  other  varieties  of  narcissi,  will  have  their  energy 
sapped  during  the  first  one  or  two  years.  They  will  not  reproduce 
bulblets  and  the  result  is  that  in  order  to  continue  the  flower  effect 
new  bulbs  must  be  purchased  and  planted  in  their  place  at  the. end 
of  two  or  three  years.  Spanish  iris  and  also  the  English  iris  will, 
under  ideal  conditions  of  soil  and  cultivation,  continue  to  develop  new 
bulbs  and  to  multiply.  For  this  reason  they  can  be  left  in  the  ground 
during  a  number  of  years.  In  cutting  flowers  from  bulbs  it  is  quite 
necessary  that  some  leaf  surface  should  remain  after  the  flower  stalk 
has  been  removed.  This  leaf  surface  provides  a  "stomach"  for  the 
plant,  in  which  digestive  functions  continue  and  new  food  is  supplied  to 
the  bulb  for  the  purpose  of  enlarging  it  and  for  the  purpose  of  forming 
new  bulblets.  The  gladiolus  is  the  best  example  of  bulbs  which  are 
reproduced  in  the  average  garden  by  new  bulblets.  Many  varieties  of 
gladioli,  however,  will  not  reproduce  bulblets  if  the  flowers  are  re- 
moved. None  of  the  varieties  of  the  gladiolus  will  produce  new 
bulblets  or  make  strong  bulbs  if,  when  the  flowers  are  cut,  all  of  the 
leaves  are  removed. 

TREATMENT  OF  BULBS  AFTER  FLOWERING.  Bulbs  will  not  ripen  if 
the  tops  are  cut  very  soon  after  flowering.  For  best  results,  do  not 
remove  the  tops  before  late  June,  or  until  leaves  turn  brown.  When 
cutting  flowers  cut  as  few  leaves  as  possible,  and  do  not  cut  the  entire 
stem  of  a  lily.  Never  lift  any  bulbs,  if  it  is  possible  to  wait,  before 
the  tops  are  brown  and  limp.  If  bulbs  must  be  removed  to  make  way 
for  other  plants,  take  roots,  top  and  all — some  soil  also  with  the  roots. 
Heel-in,  not  too  close  together,  in  a  shady  spot  until  the  tops  commence 
to  die.  Autumn-flowering  bulbs  also  should  be  allowed  to  ripen  be- 
fore removal  for  winter  storage. 

Oftentimes  it  becomes  necessary  in  the  renovating  of  the  flower 
garden  to  dig  up  bulbs  during  the  month  of  September  or  October. 
This  is  not  desirable.  Wherever  it  is  foreseen  that  the  soil  in  the 


BULB  CULTURE  69 

flower  beds  must  be  spaded  over  and  refertilized  in  the  fall,  all  bulbs 
should  be  removed  in  the  late  spring  and  stored  in  the  usual  manner 
in  a  cool,  dry,  dark  place  in  the  cellar  or  shed  until  time  to  plant  them 
in  the  fall.  If  it  is  necessary  to  dig  up  bulbs  in  the  fall  after  some  root 
growth  has  started,  then  these  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  with  some  soil 
attached  to  the  roots.  They  should  be  kept  moist  and  replanted 
just  as  soon  as  practical.  They  should  never  be  left  to  dry  out  because 
after  the  root  growth  has  once  started  this  drying  out  of  the  roots  is 
likely  to  cause  considerable  injury  to  the  bulbs.  Only  such  perma- 
nent sorts  as  the  tulips,  especially  the  Darwins,  narcissi,  and  the  lilies 
will  as  a  rule  repay  the  trouble  entailed.  Hyacinths  seldom  can  be 
depended  upon  for  good  bloom  after  the  first  display,  in  any  event, 
and  are  thus  hardly  worth  the  trouble  of  replanting.  In  the  eastern 
states  and  in  the  Middle  West  root  growth  in  bulbs  hardly  ever  starts 
before  th'e  latter  part  of  September  because  the  dry  months  of  late 
summer  keep  the  bulbs  dormant  until  the  fall  rains.  When  replanting 
of  bulbs  is  done  after  September  I5th,  a  good  mulch  of  straw 
manure  put  on  to  keep  the  frost  out  of  the  ground  as  long  as  possible  is 
essential. 

Of  lilies,  in  the  case  of  the  foreign  and  the  hybridized,  it  is  practically 
useless,  in  general,  to  try  to  prolong  life  and  to  improve  bloom  from 
year  to  year  by  taking  the  bulbs  up  annually.  Careful  study  and  ex- 
perimenting are  necessary  to  determine  what  kinds  it  is  best  to  plant. 
The  tiger  lily,  the  speciosum,  white  and  pink-dotted,  and  the  madonna 
lily  are  managed  easily  and  the  native  lilies  are  apt  to  be  permanent,  if 
given  their  natural  conditions.  The  one  named  last  should  be  planted 
early  in  the  autumn  or  even  late  in  the  summer,  not  more  than  two  or 
three  inches  deep  and  in  heavy  or  somewhat  clayey  soil.  The  bulbs 
of  this  and  of  the  others-named  here  may  be  taken  up  every  few  years, 
as  they  increase  in  number,  and  be  replanted  in  fresh  soil.  The  bulbs 
of  nearly  all  lilies  except  notably  the  madonna  may  be  kept  over  winter 
packed  in  moss  or  sand  and  stored  in  a  cool  place  where  they  will  not 
freeze.  Then  they  can  be  successfully  planted  in  the  spring  (Con- 
sult XXXIII-F,  Page  253). 

Narcissi  are  best  left  undisturbed  for  several  years.  It  is  best  to 
allow  crocuses  and  early  tulips  to  run  out,  unless  the  tulips  are  wanted 
for  formal  effects.  All  tulips,  like  hyacinths,  yield  most  satisfactory 
bloom  if  they  are  taken  up  annually  and  replanted  at  the  proper  season. 
Only  the  larger  bulbs  should  be  planted,  where  uniformity  of  effect  is 


70  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

desired,  while  the  smaller  ones  may  be  planted  apart  by  themselves 
to  increase  in  size.  Late  tulips  often  do  very  well  undisturbed  for  three, 
four,  or  five  years. 

Crocuses,  squills,  and  narcissi  may  be  naturalized,  especially  if  care  is 
taken  not  to  cut  the  tops  too  closely  or  too  soon  after  blooming.  This 
is  one  of  the  strong  arguments  in  favour  of  planting  crocus  bulbs  in 
September.  The  tops  will  have  then  matured  before  spring  mowing 
begins. 

After  the  bulbs  of  any  kind  have  been  lifted,  and  the  tops  are  dried, 
these  tops  should  be  carefully  trimmed  off  and  the  bulbs  stored  in  a 
dark,  cool  place  until  time  for  replanting. 

Plant  bulbs  in  combinations  as  shown  under  "Bulbs."  Learn 
which  are  late  flowering  and  which  are  early;  also  which  varieties  are 
tall  and  which  are  short.  Choose  lilies  that  are  easy  to  grow  and  select 
varieties  that  have  proved  successful. 

FORCING  BULBS.  Bulbs  are  grown  extensively,  both  privately  and 
commercially,  for  cut  flowers,  and  for  indoor  use  during  the  winter 
season.  It  is  not  hard  to  achieve  success  in  forcing  bulbs  if  two 
important  rules  are  observed,  namely:  I.  Procure  the  strongest 
and  best  bulbs  possible,  for  good  care  will  improve  the  quality  of  the 
flowers  but  not  the  quantity.  The  latter  is  always  fixed  within  the 
bulb  before  it  is  purchased.  2.  Perfect  root  development  must  be 
insured  before  the  tops  are  permitted  to  start  growth. 

The  bulbs  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  they  are  procurable,  with  late 
August  and  November  as  limits.  The  soil  to  use  should  be  rich  loam 
mixed  with  bone  meal  in  a  one  to  fifty  proportion.  If  the  soil  is  beavy 
add  leaf  mold  or  sand.  It  is  better  to  avoid  manure  unless  it  is 
thoroughly  rotted  and  pulverized.  Five-inch  pots  may  be  used  for 
larger  bulbs,  such  as  hyacinths;  and  a  three  or  four-inch  pot  for  one 
tulip  or  any  bulb  other  than  a  hyacinth  bulb  of  large  size.  It  is  better, 
however,  to  plant  three  or  more  bulbs  in  a  larger  pot,  as  soil  moisture 
and  temperature  are  more  evenly  maintained.  When  being  forced  for 
cut  flowers,  bulbs  are  planted  in  boxes  or  flats  of  a  depth  of  three 
inches  to  four  inches,  with  the  bulbs  set  from  one  inch  to  two  inches 
apart.  This  is  a  good  way  to  grow  bulbs  for  decoration  also,  since 
the  flats  can  be  covered  with  crepe  paper,  raffia  mats,  etc.,  when 
the  flowers  are  in  bloom.  Broken  pottery  or  charcoal  should  be  put  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pots  for  drainage.  The  soil  is  then  sifted  into  the 


BULB  CULTURE  71 

pot  or  flat,  but  not  packed,  and  the  bulb  is  so  planted  that  the  top 
is  just  below  the  surface.  Do  not  press  the  bulbs  down.  After 
planting,  water  thoroughly  to  settle  the  soil  firmly  about  the  bulb  and 
do  not  water  again  until  the  top  growth  starts  unless  the  pots  or  flats 
are  stored  in  a  place  where  they  will  dry  out. 

After  being  planted,  the  bulbs  must  be  stored  away  in  order  that 
they  may  root  properly,  because  rooting  is  the  most  important  phase  in 
successful  bulb  forcing.  There  are  several  methods  of  storage: 

1.  Place  the  pots,  flats,  etc.,  in  a  cold  frame  or  cold  pit  and  cover  with  four  inches 

of  sand,  rotted  leaves,  or  ashes.  Put  on  the  sash  when  freezing  weather 
arrives  and  open  on  pleasant  days. 

2.  Pots  may  be  placed  in  a  cool,  dark  cellar,  and  will  keep  well  if  the  soil  is  kept 

moist  but  not  wet.  The  danger  here  is  from  drying  out  if  they  are  not 
watched  at  frequent  intervals. 

3.  A  better  method  is  to  dig  a  trench  one  foot  deep,  put  in  three  inches  of  ashes 

for  drainage  and  to  keep  out  worms;  put  in  the  pots  and  fill  the  trench  with 
soil.  During  freezing  weather  cover  with  rough  stable  manure,  leaves,  or 
straw,  to  a  depth  of  four  inches. 

4.  Pots  may  be  set  out  and  covered  with  eight  inches  or  ten  inches  of  leaves,  filling 

in  between  the  pots  with  soil  to  maintain  moisture. 

Early  bulbs,  such  as  paper  white  narcissi  and  Roman  hyacinths? 
will  root  sufficiently  in  a  period  of  six  weeks.  It  is  much  better,  how- 
ever, to  leave  bulbs  in  storage  for  a  period  of  eight  weeks.  Spanish 
iris  bulbs  require  a  longer  period  for  the  formation  of  root  growth 
than  most  of  the  other  bulbs.  This  group  is  probably  the  most 
difficult  group  to  force  successfully.  They  should  remain  buried  in 
the  cold  frame  or  in  the  pit,  with  all  top  growth  retarded,  until  a 
complete  root  system  is  established.  When  ample  roots  are  formed 
and  about  one  inch  of  top  growth  has  appeared,  it  is  time  to  lift  all 
bulbs  and  remove  them  to  a  semi-dark  cellar  where  they  may  be  kept 
in  a  cool  temperature  with  little  light  to  encourage  the  immediate 
development  of  stems  and  foliage.  Avoid,  at  this  period,  direct  sun- 
light. After  a  reasonable  amount  of  growth  is  secured,  place  the  pots 
where  desired.  Bulbs  should  be  taken  out  of  storage  in  relays  to 
provide  a  succession  of  bloom. 

There  are  very  few  types  of  bulbs  which  are  adapted  for  forcing  in 
water.  The  paper  white  narcissus  is  best  adapted  to  this  type  of 
forcing.  A  few  of  the  other  types  of  narcissus  may  be  grown  in  this 
way,  and  occasionally  early  single  tulips,  Spanish  irises,  and  crocuses 


72  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

can  be  successfully  forced  in  water.  The  best  method  of  forcing  bulbs 
in  water  is  that  of  setting  each  bulb  in  a  shallow  receptacle,  partially 
filled  with  sand  or  coarse  gravel,  and  keeping  the  water  just  even  or 
slightly  below  the  base  of  the  bulb.  These  bulbs  should  then  be  kept 
in  a  dark,  cool  place  for  at  least  six  weeks,  and  the  receptacle  should 
be  frequently  filled  with  water,  which  must  always  be  clear  and  fresh. 
After  the  bulbs  have  commenced  to  root  they  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  bulbs  forced  in  soil. 

Bulbs  which  have  been  forced  in  any  manner  are  of  no  value  for 
forcing  during  the  second  year.  Such  bulbs  should  be  allowed  to 
ripen  their  foliage  by  setting  the  pots  or  flats  in  a  cool,  light  place,  and 
providing  them  with  sufficient  water  to  keep  the  bulb  from  drying 
out  until  the  top  growth  has  ripened  and  begins  to  die.  These  bulbs 
may  then  be  set  in  the  open  ground  at  the  proper  time  in  the  autumn 
and  they  will  produce  some  flowers  during  the  succeeding  year.  It  is 
seldom  that  they  will  recover  their  vigour  sufficiently  to  be  of  value 
for  the  purpose  of  forcing  during  the  second  or  third  year. 


CHAPTER  VII 
MAINTENANCE* 

REQUIREMENTS.  The  maintenance  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  since 
they  are  almost  invariably  planted  where  they  are  expected  to  re- 
main permanently,  presents  fewer  difficulties  than  the  care  of  perennial 
plantings,  except  where  plants  become  diseased  or  subject  to  insect 
attack.  Maintenance  is  confined  mostly  to  cultivation,  feeding,  water- 
ing, pruning,  and  spraying. 

TREES — TREE  SURGERY.  Pruning  has  been  discussed  in  Chapter 
III,  but  there  is  an  analogous  practice  often  followed  by  "tree  doc- 
tors," namely,  the  scraping  of  bark  from  trees,  which  should  be 
touched  on  here.  The  main  object  and  accomplishment  of  tree 
scraping  seems  to  be  the  providing  of  work  for  "tree  doctors"  during 
dull  seasons.  The  ultimate  consequences  to  the  tree  are  seldom 
beneficial,  and  often  fatal.  Instances  have  occurred  where  handsome 
shade  trees  were  scraped  down  to  the  cambium  by  ignorant  "doctors" 
and  promptly  died.  The  outer  bark  of  trees  is  placed  by  nature  as  a 
protective  covering  and  should  not  be  removed,  except  in  the  case  of 
those  trees,  such  as  hickory  and  plane  tree,  which  naturally  shed  bark 
in  large  scales,  and  then  only  when  these  scales  are  harbouring  insects 
which  cannot  be  otherwise  destroyed.  The  criticism  of  the  so- 
called  tree  doctors  is,  however,  not  intended  in  the  least  to  discredit 
really  expert  tree  surgeons  nor  to  discourage  the  employing  of  them. 
Quite  to  the  contrary,  it  should  be  noted  that  these  men  can  render 
most  valuable  service  and  that  often  a  greatly  prized  tree  can  be 
saved  for  many  years  and  its  growth  greatly  improved  by  having  it 
wisely  cared  for.  The  supporting  of  branches  where  a  crotch  might 
cause  a  splitting  of  large  limbs  is  too  often  neglected.  The  removing  of 
broken  branches  often  prevents  decay  from  entering  into  the  heart  of 
the  tree.  The  taking  out  of  crossing  limbs  often  makes  possible  a 
symmetry  of  development  that  otherwise  would  never  be  realized. 

%    *See  also  Chapter  III  on  "Pruning"  and  Chapter  VIII  on  "Winter  Protection  and  Mulching." 

73 


74  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

The  proper  filling  of  a  cavity,  after  the  wound  has  been  scientifically 
dressed,  will  enable  the  cambium  to  begin  to  grow  over  the  space 
and  in  time  to  cover  it  entirely  with  tissue  that  will  greatly  promote 
future  growth  of  the  tree  as  a  whole  while  at  the  same  time  it  removes  a 
disfigurement.  But  before  the  welfare  of  valuable  trees  is  entrusted 
to  a  man  who  professes  to  be  able  to  restore  them  there  should  be  valid 
assurance  of  his  being  in  every  way  proficient  and  thoroughly  compe- 
tent. 

FERTILIZING.  Shade  trees  seem  to  be  less  intelligently  maintained 
than  shrubbery.  It  is  a  matter  of  common  knowledge  that  the  roots 
of  trees  spread  as  far  or  farther  than  the  tops,  and  that  most  of  the 
feeding  roots  are  at  the  extremities  of  the  large  roots.  Many  ex- 
periments have  proved  that  the  effect  of  fertilizers  is  rarely  felt  very 
far  in  a  lateral  direction  from  the  place  where  applied.  Therefore, 
when  feeding  a  shade  tree  do  not  bank  a  small  pile  of  strawy  manure 
around  the  trunk,  as  this  encourages  mice  only.  Spread  the  mulch 
well  out  over  the  whole  area  covered  by  the  top  of  the  tree,  and  neglect, 
if  any,  the  area  near  the  trunk.  In  case  of  shade  or  orchard  trees 
which  are  not  vigorous  and  which  require  feeding,  recent  experiments 
seem  to  show  that  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  acid  phosphate 
are  effective.  Quantities  up  to  ten  pounds  for  each  tree  may  be  used 
on  old  trees  either  spread  evenly  over  the  surface  of  the  ground  under- 
neath the  tree  or  introduced  beneath  the  sod  in  quantities  of  a  handful 
deposited  in  the  bottom  of  holes  made  by  a  crowbar  at  staggered  in- 
tervals of  eighteen  inches.  Bone  meal  is  probably  one  of  the  best 
fertilizers  to  be  used  in  preserving  the  vitality  of  shade  trees.  A 
successful  method  of  applying  bone  meal  is  that  of  spreading  it  broad- 
cast over  the  lawn  surrounding  the  base  of  the  tree.  This  fertilizer, 
which  is  slow  acting,  should  be  applied  during  the  winter  or  very  early 
spring  months,  at  the  rate  of  at  least  twenty-five  or  fifty  pounds  for 
trees  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  and  at  a  proportionately 
less  rate  for  trees  of  smaller  diameter.  This  fertilizer  should  be  applied 
at  least  once  in  two  years.  It  is  much  better  to  apply  a  less  amount 
and  to  fertilize  the  trees  each  year. 

WATERING.  Most  of  the  deep-rooted  shade  trees,  such  as  oaks,  sel- 
dom need  watering  after  they  are  once  established,  but  it  is  often 
advisable  to  grve  shade  trees  a  heavy  watering  in  time  of  drought* 


MAINTENANCE  75 

Surface  sprinkling  is  not  desirable  as  it  encourages  surface  rooting 
and  seldom  does  much  good.  In  case  it  is  necessary  to  water  a  shade 
tree  the  best  plan  is  to  throw  up  a  shallow  embankment  of  earth  around 
the  tree  just  outside  the  spread  of  the  branches  if  possible,  and  flood 
the  enclosed  area  at  intervals  not  more  often  than  once  in  five  or  six 
days.  Many  trees  and  shrubs  will  be  much  benefited  in  time  of 
drought  if  their  tops  are  sprinkled  at  sundown  on  very  hot  days. 

SPRAYING.  Spraying  of  plants  as  a  scientific  practice  is,  com- 
paratively speaking,  a  modern  procedure,  but  the  necessity  for  doing 
something  to  protect  plants  against  insects  and  plant  diseases  has  been 
understood  since  antiquity.  In  their  writings  the  Greeks,  Romans, 
and  Hebrews  noted  the  existence  of  rusts  and  mildews,  and  the  plague 
of  locusts  is  of  Biblical  record. 

Spraying  is  only  one  of  several  ways  of  protecting  plants  and  among 
the  others  may  be  enumerated  hand  picking,  fumigating,  banding, 
burning,  using  fungous  diseases  as  insecticides,  crop  rotation,  soil 
sterilization  and  various  other  more  or  less  practical  methods.  These 
other  methods  are  important  when  understood  and  put  into  practice 
at  the  right  moment  and  in  the  right  way,  but  they  are  inexact  com- 
pared to  spraying  and  are  seldom  as  efficient.  Spraying,  by  which 
is  meant  the  use  of  chemicals  to  poison  or  otherwise  exterminate 
animal  and  vegetable  parasites  on  plants,  has  been  reduced  very 
nearly  to  an  exact  science  in  this  country,  largely  within  the  last 
century,  and,  while  it  is  not  the  purpose  here  to  go  too  deeply  into  this 
art,  some  broad  rules  may  be  laid  down  and  some  little  understood 
points  cleared  up. 

Our  Government  and  State  Experiment  Stations  have  been  largely 
responsible  for  the  rapid  strides  taken  in  this  art  in  this  country. 
^pRey  have  issued  many  bulletins  and  spray  calendars  containing 
/exact  directions  for  combating  all  the  known  insect  pests  and  plant 
diseases  and  they  always  stand  ready  to  help  any  one  who  asks  for  it. 
Yet  much  of  their  help  comes  too  late  and  much  money  is  wasted 
each  year  with  consequent  disappointment,  because  a  few  simple 
principles  are  not  clearly  understood.  Some  of  the  overlooked  factors 
which  are  not  taken  into  account  are  as  follows:  (i)  a  spray  mixture 
must  be  the  correct  one  as,  for  example,  it  does  no  good  to  use  poison 
upon  an  insect  at  a  period  in  its  life  history  when  it  does  not  eat;  (2) 
the  spray  mixture  must  not  in  jute  the  plants,  or  else  the  cure  will  be 


76  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

worse  than  the  disease;  (3)  a  thorough  job  must  be  done  or  else  the 
whole  job  may  have  to  be  done  over  at  too  late  a  season  to  secure  the 
best  results;  (4)  the  correct  time  must  be  picked  or  a  rain  storm 
may  undo  the  whole  work  within  a  few  hours;  (5)  the  spray  must 
stick  to  the  plant  long  enough  to  be  of  some  use,  especially  in  the  case 
of  poisons. 

The  various  forms  of  sprays  may  be  classified  in  four  different  ways : 
according  to  the  season  of  spraying,  the  kind  of  chemicals  used,  the 
form  in  which  the  chemical  is  applied,  and  the  kind  of  plants  sprayed. 

SEASONS  FOR  SPRAYING.  The  seasons  for  outdoor  spraying  are  two: 
the  summer  or  growing  season,  and  the  winter  or  dormant  season. 
Summer  sprays  are  invariably  not  applied  so  strong  as  winter  sprays, 
because  the  bark  on  the  new  shoots  as  well  as  the  leaves  would  be 
injured  by  a  spray  of  a  strength  which  would  not  only  be  entirely  safe, 
but  advisable  to  use  when  a  plant  was  dormant.  Dormant  sprays  are 
mostly  confined  to  those  applied  for  protection  against  vegetable 
parasites  and  those  intended  to  destroy  scale  insects.  Some  useful 
winter  work  is  often  done  in  the  destroying  of  egg  masses  and  cocoons 
by  torches  and  the  application  of  creosote  or  other  strong  paints  by 
hand  in  small  quantities;  but  this  is  not,  strictly  speaking,  spraying. 
Summer  spraying  includes  nearly  all  the  methods  used  in  the  dormant 
season,  with  the  spray  made  more  or  less  dilute,  dependent  upon  the 
exact  season,  as  well  as  all  the  other  forms  of  sprays.  It  should  be 
noted  that  dormant  spraying  may  be  done  at  almost  any  time  after  the 
plants  become  dormant  in  the  autumn  and  until  they  start  growth  in 
the  spring;  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  attempt  to  spray  during  freezing 
weather,  nor  too  early  in  the  winter,  because  in  the  latter  event  much 
of  the  benefits  of  the  spray  will  be  lost  through  the  subsequent  winter 
storms.  If  dormant  spraying  is  delayed  until  nearly  spring  some 
beneficial  results  may  be  expected  to  extend  into  the  summer,  which 
would  otherwise  have  been  lost.  Summer  spraying,  on  the  contrary, 
must  usually  be  done  at  some  precise  time  in  order  to  secure  the  de- 
sired results,  though  this  is  not  always  strictly  necessary. 

SPRAY  CHEMICALS  USED.  The  spray  chemicals  used  are  those  which 
are  best  adapted  to  destroy  the  various  forms  of  plant  and  animal 
parasites  which  it  is  desired  to  attack.  Sometimes  it  is  possible  to 
combine  two  forms  of  chemicals  in  one  spray  and  thus  make  one 


MAINTENANCE  77 

operation  serve  two  purposes.  Those  sprays  intended  for  leaf-eating 
insects  are  classified  as  poisons  and  act  like  all  poisons  on  being  ab- 
sorbed into  the  digestive  tract  of  the  insect.  It  is  generally  necessary 
only  to  secure  an  even  distribution  of  such  a  spray,  which  usually  con- 
tains some  form  of  arsenic,  over  the  leaves  of  the  plant.  Those  sprays 
intended  for  insects,  such  as  the  scale  insects,  which  do  not  eat  leaves 
or  green  parts  of  plants,  are  classified  as  contact  insecticides.  They  kill 
by  suffocating  the  insect  or  by  their  direct  physical  action  upon  the 
body  of  the  insect.  Thus  they  may  also  be  useful  against  leaf-eating 
insects  as  well.  These  sprays  may  be  merely  some  powder  in  a  form 
so  minute  that  it  can  enter  the  breathing  apparatus  of  the  insect  or, 
in  the  case  of  the  sucking  insects,  some  oil  which  can  be  held  in  suspen- 
sion in  water  long  enough  to  allow  it  to  be  sprayed  over  the  plant. 
Other  well-known  contact  insecticides  are  tobacco  extract  (nicotine 
sulphate)  and  various  soaps,  such  as  "whale  oil"  soap,  made  from  fish 
oil.  Sometimes  poisonous  gases  are  used  for  this  purpose  but  that  is, 
properly  speaking,  fumigation  and  not  spraying.  The  third  classifica- 
tion of  sprays  according  to  chemicals  is  that  intended  for  fungous 
diseases,  caused  by  low  forms  of  vegetable  parasites.  Anthracnose, 
rust,  mildew,  canker,  blight,  and  numerous  other  descriptive  names 
are  given  to  these  diseases  but  they  are  nearly  all  treated  alike  by  the 
application  of  a  fungicide  which  is  generally  some  spray  containing 
sulphur,  either  lime-sulphur  mixture  or  Bordeaux  mixture,  which  is  a 
lime  and  copper  sulphate  mixture.  The  lime-sulphur  mixture  also 
acts  as  a  contact  insecticide  in  some  cases.  Fungicides  should  be 
applied  very  evenly  over  the  whole  of  the  plant  from  top  to  bottom 
and  may  be  used  much  stronger  during  the  dormant  season  than  would 
be  safe  during  the  growing  season. 

FORMS  OF  SPRAYS.  The  types  of  spray  classified  according  to  the 
form  in  which  they  are  used  are  two.  The  most  generally  used  form 
is  the  liquid,  which  generally  means  a  chemical  in  suspension  in  water. 
Most  sprays  used  in  liquid  form  are  chosen  because  of  their  ability  to 
stay  in  suspension  in  water  for  a  considerable  length  of  time  without 
either  going  into  solution  or  gathering  in  lumps.  This  property  of 
staying  in  suspension  is  a  very  valuable  one,  because  it  insures  an  even 
distribution  of  the  spray  material  without  an  excessive  amount  of 
agitation  to  keep  the  mixture  even.  There  is  an  increasing  tendency 
to  use  the  dust  form  of  spray  in  which  the  chemicals  are  blown  upon 


78  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

the  plants  in  the  form  of  a  very  fine  powder  which  is  largely  dependent 
upon  atmospheric  moisture  to  make  it  stick  to  the  plant.  Dust  sprays 
are  used  more  often  in  a  commercial  way  than  by  the  average  amateur 
when  protecting  ornamental  plants,  and  this  form  of  spray  is  not 
adapted  to  all  the  chemicals  used,  as,  for  instance,  the  oil  and  tobacco 
extract  sprays.  Sometimes  poisons  are  mixed  with  bait  and  spread 
upon  the  ground  near  the  plants  to  be  protected,  but  this  again  is  not 
spraying  in  the  generally  accepted  sense  of  the  word. 

OUTFITS  FOR  SPRAYING.  There  are  various  spraying  outfits  adapted  to 
the  various  requirements  dependent  on  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done 
and  the  physical  difficulties  to  be  overcome.  Probably  the  best  small 
outfit  for  the  amateur  is  the  knapsack  sprayer  which  can  be  easily 
transported  and  even  carried  up  into  the  tops  of  trees  if  necessary. 
This  consists  of  an  airtight  receptacle  for  the  spray  mixture,  which 
may  be  strapped  to  the  back  in  such  a  way  as  to  easily  allow  the 
pressure  to  be  kept  up  with  one  hand  while  the  nozzle  attached  to  a 
short  length  of  hose  is  manipulated  in  the  other  hand.  The  best 
knapsack  sprayers  have  a  copper  tank  holding  about  four  gallons  of 
liquid,  a  brass  pump,  and  an  air  pressure  chamber  which  insures  a 
steady  stream.  They  weigh  fifty  pounds  when  full  of  liquid.  A 
cheaper  pump  of  about  the  same  type  but  small  capacity  is  the  bucket 
pump  which  can  be  used  with  any  bucket  or  pail.  This  is  harder  to 
transport  about  and  not  so  satisfactory  in  other  ways  as  a  knapsack 
sprayer.  There  are  various  types  of  hand-operated  barrel  outfits. 
Sometimes  the  barrel  is  mounted  on  large  wheels  so  that  it  can  be 
easily  moved  about  with  a  pump  installed  in  the  head  of  the  barrel,  or 
sometimes  a  larger  hand-operated  pump  is  mounted  on  a  cart  beside  a 
barrel  or  tank.  Such  an  outfit  will  take  care  of  all  but  the  tallest 
trees  and  is  about  the  largest  suitable  for  amateur  spraying.  It  has 
enough  capacity  to  take  care  of  considerable  spraying  and  enough 
pressure  to  insure  a  fine  spray  reaching  all  parts  of  even  large  plants. 
For  occasionally  spraying  small  shrubs  and  such  plants  as  perennials 
and  annual  flowering  herbs  a  small  hand  force  pump  is  a  very  con- 
venient one  to  have.  These  small  pumps  hold  a  quart  of  liquid  in  a 
glass  or  copper  retainer. 

The  power  sprayers  are  operated  either  by  a  gearing  or  sprocket 
and  chain  connecting  the  wheels  of  the  outfit  to  the  pump  or  by  a 
gasoline  engine  mounted  on  a  platform  together  with  a  pump  and 


PLATE  XIII.  Carefully  selected  and  planted  trees  for  avenue  and  -street 
planting  provide  a  uniform  and  a  symmetrical  effect  together  with  the  invit- 
ing shade,  all  of  which  are  so  essential  to  the  standards  of  modern  residential 
districts.  (See  page  116,  group  X-A) 


MAINTENANCE  79 

tank.  When  many  trees  are  to  be  sprayed  a  power  sprayer  should  be 
used  in  order  to  secure  a  pressure  which  will  enable  the  forcing  of  a  fine 
spray  to  all  parts  of  the  tallest  trees.  For  spraying  tall  trees  an 
apparatus  which  works  up  a  pressure  of  two  hundred  pounds  is  required 
so  that  the  spray  mixture  may  leave  the  nozzle  in  a  solid  stream  and 
break  into  a  mist  as  it  nears  the  top  of  the  tree.  This  is  not  required 
for  spraying  smaller  trees  or  bushes  or  flowers  where  the  requirement 
becomes  that  of  producing  a  fine  spray  a  few  feet  from  the  nozzle. 

Spray  chemicals  which  are  to  be  used  in  dust  form  are  applied 
by  means  of  so-called  "powder  guns"  when  large  amounts  are  used  on 
large  trees.  These  are  seldom  useful  on  ornamental  plants  because 
of  the  usual  proximity  of  houses  or  public  streets  and  the  consequent 
annoyance  caused  by  clouds  of  obnoxious  dust  flying  in  the  air.  Many 
times,  however,  sulphur  dust  or  hellebore  can  be  applied  by  means  of 
small  hand  force  pumps  adapted  to  using  the  dry  dust,  or  this  dust  can 
be  applied  by  sifting  over  the  plants  through  holes  punched  in  the  con- 
tainer in  which  it  is  purchased. 

FORMULAS  FOR  SPRAYS.  The  formulas  for  some  of  the  simpler 
insecticides  and  fungicides  will  be  given  here;  but  it  is  generally  more 
advisable  for  the  amateur  to  purchase  his  chemicals  already  mixed  and 
in  packages  of  a  size  adapted  for  his  immediate  requirements. 

POISONS: 

Paris  green — aceto  arsenite  of  copper. 

Arsenite  of  lime. 

Arsenate  of  lead;  use  2  IBs.  to  50  gal.  water. 

Hellebore;  use  I  ounce  to  I  gallon  of  water. 
POISON  BAITS: 

For  cutworms  i  Ib.  Paris  green  .mixed  with  10  Ib.  bran. 

For  cutworms  I  Ib.  white  arsenic  and  I  Ib.  of  sugar  or  molasses  in  6  Ibs.  of  bran. 

For  grasshoppers  use  the  arsenic,  sugar,  and  bran  mixture,  placing  i  tablespoonful 
every  6  or  8  feet. 

For  sow  bugs  or  pill  bugs  use  slices  of  potato  dipped  in  a  dry  arsenical  or  a  strong 

solution. 
CONTACT  INSECTICIDES: 

For  plant  lice  use  one  Ib.  soap  to  5  to  8  gallons  water. 

For  aphids  and  larvae  use  nicotine  sulphate  at  strength  given  on  package  or  I  Ib. 
tobacco  stems  boiled  in  2  gal.  water  (Dilution  of  nicotine  sulphate  is  generally 
I  pint  to  50  gallons  of  water.  The  addition  of  2  Ibs.  of  soap  is  desirable). 

For  scales  use  2  gal.  kerosene  and  i  gal.  sour  milk. 

For  plant  lice  use  2  gal.  kerosene  and  I  gal.  soft  water  and  |  Ib.  soap. 


8o 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


For  scales  use  in  winter  only  a  lime-sulphur  spray  containing  about  20  Ibs.  of  un- 
slaked lime  and  15  Ibs.  of  flowers  of  sulphur  to  50  gal.  of  water. 

For  red  spider  and  plant  mites  use  flowers  of  sulphur  as  a  dry  powder  dusted  over 
the  trees  when  covered  with  dew  or  immediately  after  a  rain. 

For  hibernating  insects  use  a  miscible  or  soluble  oil  at  the  rate  of  i  part  of  oil  to 
12  or  15  parts  of  water. 

FUNGICIDES: 

Bordeaux  mixture;  5  Ibs.  copper  sulphate  and  5  Ibs.  lime  in  50  gal.  water. 
Ammoniacal  copper  carbonate;  6  oz.  copper  carbonate  and  3  pts.  ammonia  in 

50  gal.  of  water. 

Copper  sulphate  is  used,  with  lime  to  colour  it.    For  killing  fungi  on  dormant  plants. 
Lime  sulphur  mixture  also  acts  as  a  fungicide. 


SYMPTOMS  AND  TREATMENTS.  The  following  list  shows  in  parallel 
columns  (i)  the  symptoms  which  appear  upon  diseased  plants  or  those 
with  insect  pests,  (2)  the  cause  and  lastly  (3)  the  indicated  treatment. 


SYMPTOM 


CAUSE 


TREATMENT 


Scab 
Leaf  spot 

Leaf  curl 
Canker 

Rust 

Wilt 
Twig  blight 

Mildews 

Fruit  rot 

Smut 

Tip  burn  (leaves) 

Scald 


Gum  excretion 

Sawdust  excretion 
Leaf     discolouration 

conifers 
Bark  discolouration 

Leaf  curling 
Wilt 


of 


Fungus 
Fungus 

Leaf  curl  fungus 
Freezing  or  rot  fungus 

Rust  fungus 

Fungus 
Fungus 

Mildew  fungus 

Anthracnose  fungus 

Smut  fungus 

Too  much  water  fol- 
lowed by  hot  weather 

Freezing  and  thawing  or 
fungus 

Borers 

Borers 
Red  spider 

Scales 

Aphids 
Cut  worms 


Bordeaux  or  lime-sulphur 

Bordeaux,  also  gather  and 
burn  diseased  leaves 

Lime-sulphur  or  Bordeaux 

Cut  out  and  destroy,  dis- 
eased parts 

Bordeaux,  also  cut  out  cedar 
apples 

Bordeaux 

Lime-sulphur,  also  cut  out 
and  burn  diseased  parts 

Sulphur  dust,  also  burn 
leaves  in  autumn 

Bordeaux 

Bordeaux. 

Watch  soil  conditions 

Protect  from 'winter  sun  and 
use  Bordeaux 

Protective  wash  and  dig  out 

borers 

Protective  wash 
Dry  sulphur  dust 

Lime-sulphur     or     kerosene 

emulsion 

Nicotine  sulphate  or  soapsuds 
Paris  green   in   molasses   in 

bran 


MAINTENANCE 


81 


SYMPTOM 

CAUSE 

TREATMENT 

Defoliation 

Bag  worms  or  other 
caterpillars 

Arsenate  of  lead  and  burn 
winter     nests     and     egg 
masses 

Defoliation 
Defoliation 
Defoliation 
Leaf  discolouration  of  rho- 
dodendrons 

Rose  slugs 
Leaf  beetles 
Thrips 
Lace-wing  fly 

Arsenate  of  lead 
Arsenate  of  lead 
Nicotine  sulphate 
Soap  solution,  I   bar  to  20 
gallons. 

SPRAYING  DONTS 

Don't  wait  for  rose  pests — spray  first. 

Don't  destroy  toads  or  birds;  they  save  you  lots  of  trouble  with  insects. 

Don't  mix  spray  materials  unless  you  are  a  chemist. 

Don't  use  liquid  sprays  without  keeping  a  uniform  solution  by  means  of 

agitating  the  liquid. 

Don't  whitewash  your  tree  trunks;  bugs  are  not  afraid  of  whitewash. 
Don't  band  tree  trunks  with  anything  but  a  preparation  and  at  a  time 

approved  by  an  entomologist. 

Don't  spray  exhibition  plants  or  flowers  with  a  discolouring  spray. 
Don't  neglect  to  watch  the  wind  when  spraying;  it  may  blow  poison 

into  someone's  face  and  eyes  or  over  a  painted  or  varnished  surface 

or  scatter  poison  over  food  crops,  like  lettuce. 
Don't  dust  your  evergreens,  coniferous  or  broad-leaved,  with  lime; 

the  result  will  be  more  serious  than  any  disease. 
Don't  be  bashful  about  asking  your  State  Experiment  Station  for  help. 

SHRUBS — CULTIVATION.  The  cultivation  of  shrubs  is  rather  over- 
done than  underdone.  The  natural  habitat  of  most  woody  plants 
includes  a  ground  covering  of  leaves,  forest  mold,  or  herbaceous  plants 
and  grass;  thus  they  are  protected  summer  and  winter  against  drought 
and  cold.  It  is  not  often  possible  to  reproduce  such  conditions  in  a 
made  border;  but  the  tendency  should  be  in  that  direction.  While  a 
certain  amount  of  cultivation  at  first  in  a  shrub  border  is  desirable, 
especially  in  new  ground,  most  shrub  borders  would  benefit  by  being 
permanently  mulched,  or  at  least  by  not  being  dug  over  too  deeply 
after  the  roots  of  the  shrubs  have  become  established.  The  use  of 


82  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

ground  covers  among  shrubbery  is  excellent,  and  they  are  especially 
valuable  toward  the  front  of  the  border.  When  properly  mulched  and 
cared  for,  shrubbery  will  seldom  need  watering  after  the  first  year  or 
two,  but  an  occasional  good  soaking  during  the  drought  of  summer  will 
not  come  amiss.  It  is  quite  essential,  at  intervals  of  every  two  or  three 
years,  that  the  deciduous  shrub  borders  should  be  carefully  gone  over 
and  that  the  ground  around  the  individual  shrubs  should  be  thoroughly 
loosened  wherever  it  is  possible  to  do  so  without  disturbing  the  root 
system.  At  such  times  considerable  fertilizer  consisting  of  well- 
rotted  manure  or  a  heavy  application  of  bone  meal  should  be  applied. 
No  quick-acting  fertilizer  such  as  sheep  manure,  dried  blood,  or  nitrate 
of  soda  is  desirable.  In  the  successful  maintenance  of  the  shrub  border 
the  object  of  supplying  fertilizer  to  that  border  is  not  one  of  forcing 
growth  but  one  of  maintaining  normal  growth. 

In  the  proper  maintenance  of  a  shrub  border  the  crowding  and  dead 
wood  should  be  removed  each  year.  It  often  becomes  necessary  to 
transplant  to  other  locations  and  to  rearrange  some  plants  where  they 
are  becoming  too  thick  in  the  border  plantation,  in  order  to  give  the 
remainder  of  the  plants  an  opportunity  to  develop  normally.  We 
often  see  shrub  plantations  which  are  "leggy."  This  can  be  overcome 
by  a  proper  pruning  each  year,  consisting  of  the  removal,  to  a  height  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  above  the  ground,  of  at  least  one-fourth  of  the 
old  wood  (See  Plate  No.  V).  This  will  encourage  new  growth  from 
the  base  of  the  shrub  and,  where  refined  mass  effects  are  desired,  this 
method  of  pruning  will  eliminate  much  of  the  broken  and  unkept  ap- 
pearance of  many  plantations.  There  are  instances  in  which  the  ex- 
tremely old  and  unkept  effect  is  more  to  be  desired,  and  this  process 
of  pruning  cannot  be  applied. 

RHODODENDRONS.  Rhododendrons,  other  broad-leaved  evergreens, 
and  conifers  should  be  thoroughly  watered  during  the  late  fall  and 
never  be  allowed  to  freeze  for  the  winter  in  a  dry  condition.  This  is 
more  often  the  cause  of  winter-killing  than  is  severe  cold.  The  reason 
why  these  plants  are  more  susceptible  to  injury  on  this  account  is  be- 
cause they  hold  their  leaves  during  the  winter  months  and  thus 
transpiration  continues  to  some  degree,  and  if  the  plant  is  not  well 
filled  with  moisture,  a  drying-out  process  occurs  and  the  plant  is  devit- 
alized. Because  of  the  mass  of  fine,  hairlike  roots  which  find  their  way 
through  the  earth  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  rhododendrons  can- 


MAINTENANCE  83 

not  endure  any  considerable  dry  period  or  any  cultivation  of  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  in  the  same  manner  as  that  adopted  in  caring  for 
deciduous  shrubs  and  the  deeper-rooted  evergreens. 

RHODODENDRONS,  FERTILIZER  FOR.  Rhododendrons  and  other 
ericaceous  plants  should  not  be  fertilized  with  manure  until  well 
established.  In  the  late  fall  after  the  rhododendrons  have  been 
established  one  year  they  may  be  fertilized  by  the  application  of  a  two- 
inch  layer  of  well-rotted  stable  manure  over  the  top  of  the  mulch. 
This  should  be  repeated  each  year.  Chemical  fertilizers  are  seldom 
or  never  used  on  ericaceous  plants.  Bone  meal  should  never  be 
used  as  its  bone  phosphate  of  lime  is  sure  to  react  upon  the  soil  acidity 
so  essential  to  the  successful  culture  of  rhododendrons  and  allied  plants. 
The  use  of  bone  meal  has  been  known  to  be  fatal  to  these  plants. 
Epsom  salt  has  been  recommended  as  a  fertilizer  for  rhododendrons, 
but  this  is  probably  a  mistake  and  in  any  event  a  doubtful  procedure 
because  of  the  chemical  nature  of  this  material.  As  epsom  salt  is 
magnesium  sulphate  and  has  been  used  in  England  to  top-dress  clover 
as  a  substitute  for  lime,  it  probably  would  react  in  the  soil  similar  to 
lime  and  would  be  injurious  to  all  ericaceous  plants. 

EVERGREENS.  The  greatest  problem  in  the  maintenance  of  ever- 
greens is  that  of  keeping  them  in  a  healthy  and  vigorous  condition  of 
growth.  There  are  certain  locations  where  it  is  essential  to  use  ever- 
greens in  order  to  produce  a  desired  effect.  Oftentimes  these  locations 
are  surrounded  by  a  city  environment  with  a  dust-laden  and  smoky 
atmosphere  which  is  one  of  the  more  injurious  factors  in  the  growing  of 
evergreens.  If  such  plants  are  to  be  maintained  in  a  healthy  con- 
dition they  should  never  be  watered  on  the  leaves  during  the  heat 
of  the  day  when  the  sun  is  shining.  They  should,  however,  be 
sprayed  with  a  strong  force  of  water  at  intervals  not  less  often  than 
once  each  week  in  order  to  wash  from  the  surface  of  the  leaves  the 
accumulated  dust  which  if  left  causes  a  devitalized  condition  of  the 
entire  plant. 

VINES.  Vines  require  but  little  attention.  Wood  should  be 
cut  back  severely  in  the  spring  on  vines  with  ornamental  fruit.  Re- 
move old  canes  and  check  any  growth  that  becomes  too  rank.  Shoots 
that  are  too  long  or  spoil  the  general  effect  should  be  cur.  All  climbers 


84  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

must  be  furnished  with  some  kind  of  support  and  care  should  be  taken 
to  fasten  loose  ends. 

Usually  vines  are  planted  close  to  foundations.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  most  foundations  are  carefully  provided  with  a  line  of 
drainage  on  the  outside  of  the  wall  in  order  to  readily  care  for  any 
surface  water  that  seeps  into  the  soil  and  then  later  seeps  through  the 
wall  if  not  promptly  carried  away.  For  this  reason,  probably,  vines 
require  more  attention  than  most  other  plants  in  order  to  keep  them 
supplied  with  a  quantity  of  water  necessary  to  their  normal  develop- 
ment. They  should  also  be  very  frequently  fertilized,  preferably  with 
bone  meal  or  well-rotted  manure.  Well-rotted  cow  manure  is  an  ideal 

fertilizer  for  most  vines. 

ix 

LAWNS — FERTILIZING.  The  maintenance  of  lawns  consists  of 
fertilizing,  rolling,  watering,  and  mowing  in  order  to  keep  the  turf  in 
such  condition  that  few  if  any  weeds  will  have  an  opportunity  to  flour- 
ish. Fertilizing  of  a  lawn  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  important 
items  of  its  maintenance,  for  the  reason  that  few  lawns  are  so  well 
prepared  when  first  made  that  they  do  not  begin  to  need  additional 
food  material  during  the  second  or  third  year  after  making.  It  is 
difficult  to  convince  those  who  are  developing  lawns  for  the  first  time 
that  money  expended  in  the  proper  preparation  and  fertilization  of  a 
good  depth  of  topsoil  will  do  away  with  the  subsequent  annual  expense 
necessary  to  keep  a  lawn,  not  correctly  prepared  when  originally  made, 
in  the  best  condition.  A  good  turf  requires  food  in  the  form  of  ferti- 
lizer, and  this  food  supply  must  either  be  provided  at  the  time  the  lawn 
is  made  or  it  must  be  constantly  applied  from  year  to  year  afterward 
(See  Page  53).  Much  thought,  labour,  and  money  are  wasted  in  putting 
a  mulch  on  lawns,  only  to  come  back  later  and  cast  it  away  again. 
It  may  be  wise  to  mulch  a  lawn  in  the  fall,  but  there  is  more  than  an 
even  chance  that  if*  the  area  is  covered  with  fresh  manure,  weeds  will  be 
introduced  and  this  will  more  than  offset  any  real  value  derived  from 
the  mulch.  The  use  of  manure  as  a  top-dressing  for  lawns  should  be 
discouraged  unless  used  in  the  form  of  a  completely  decomposed  compost. 
A  thick  coat  of  manure  is  apt  to  stifle  the  grass.  Lawns  should  never 
be  mulched  with  manure  during  the'  spring  unless  with  thoroughly 
rotted  manure  applied  not  later  than  early  March.  All  mulching 
or  top-dressing  should  be  done  preferably  in  the  fall  so  that  the  weed 
seeds  are  killed  to  a  great  extent  during  the  winter.  It  is  practically 


MAINTENANCE  85 

useless  to  apply  the  manure  on  frozen  ground,  for  an  ensuing  rain  or 
melting  of  the  snow  may  dissolve  and  carry  away  either  in  solution  or 
suspension  most  of  the  fertilizing  ingredients. 

If  a  lawn  is  not  mowed  too  late  in  the  season  and  is  not  cleaned 
too  completely  of  the  mowed  grass,  it  will  generally  provide  its  own 
mulch  for  the  winter  very  satisfactorily. 

Bone  meal  alone,  especially  if  not  very  finely  ground,  may  be  used 
in  the  late  fall  at  the  rate  of  five  hundred  pounds  an  acre,  or  twelve 
pounds  to  1,000  square  feet  every  year.  Bone  meal  seems  to  be  the 
best  phosphoric  acid  carrier  for  lawns.  Nitrate  of  soda  is  the  quickest- 
acting  fertilizer  and  may  be  used  broadcast  in  quantities  up  to  five  hun- 
dred pounds  an  acre  each  year.  This  quantity  must  be  divided  among 
two  or  three  separate  applications.  Both  blue  grass  and  clover  will 
be  encouraged  by  the  use  of  air-slaked  lime  as  a  winter  dressing  every 
four  or  five  years,  at  the  rate  of  one  ton  an  acre.  Chemical  fertilizers 
are  best  applied  in  the  spring  as  a  top-dressing  and  about  five  hundred 
pounds  an  acre  should  be  applied.  A  mixture  of  5%  nitrogen,  6%  avail- 
able phosphoric  acid,  and  8%  potash  will  produce  good  results.  Equal 
parts  of*  finely  ground  bone  meal  and  sifted  wood  ashes  at  the  rate  of 
one  ton  an  acre  make  a  good  spring  top-dressing.  Kiln-dried  sheep  ma- 
nure may  be  used  at  the  rate  of  one  ton  an  acre  or  fifty  pounds  to  1,000 
square  feet,  with  excellent  results,  with  the  assurance  that  it  will  not 
bring  in  weed  seeds.  It  should  be  applied  in  early  spring  for  the 
best  results. 

WATERING  LAWNS.  A  properly  prepared  lawn  will  not  require  much 
watering  unless  the  season  is  unusually  dry  or  near-by  trees  are  robbing 
the  grass  roots.  In  any  event,  a  few  thorough  soakings  are  much  more 
valuable  than  many  superficial  sprinklings.  The  effect  of  a  good 
thorough  soaking  is  not  only  more  lasting  in  itself,  but  also  encourages 
deep  rooting  of  the  grass,  which,  in  turn,  tends  to  remove  the  necessity 
for  watering  and  also  opens  up  new  stores  of  plant  food  to  the  grass 
roots.  It  is  better  to  avoid  all  spray  nozzles  and  whirligig  fountains, 
for,  however  handsome  the  effects  they  may  produce  in  the  sunlight, 
they  do  not  insure  a  thorough  soaking.  It  does  not  matter  nearly  so 
much  at  what  time  of  the  day  a  lawn  is  wet  as  it  does  how  thoroughly 
the  watering  is  done.  Watering  done  in  the  middle  of  a  hot,  sunny  day, 
however,  is  made  less  effective  by  reason  of  evaporation.  It  also  in- 
volves some  scorching  or  cooking  of  the  blades  of  grass  as  the  sun  shines 


86  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

through  the  globules  or  film  of  moisture  upon  them.  Do  not  hasten  to 
sprinkle  a  lawn  at  the  first  approach  of  warm  weather  as  this  will  dis- 
courage the  tendency  of  the  grass  roots  to  go  deeper  in  search  of  the 
ground  water.  If  the  lawn  shows  signs  later  in  the  season  of  being  in 
distress,  give  it  a  thorough  soaking.  An  effective  watering  should  soak 
the  ground  to  a  depth  of  five  or  six  inches. 

ROLLING  AND  WEEDING  LAWNS.  Rolling  of  lawns  is  not  resorted  to 
nearly  as  much  as  formerly.  Probably  one  good,  thorough  rolling  in 
the  early  spring  is  beneficial,  especially  on  clay  land  which  may  have 
heaved  in  spots  during  the  winter.  Except  for  this,  rolling  is  of  doubt- 
ful value,  especially  because  during  dry  weather  it  causes  loss  of 
moisture  through  transpiration.  Weeds  in  the  lawn  indicate  that  the 
grass  is  not  properly  cared  for  or  has  been  carelessly  seeded.  Weeds 
may  appear  in  a  new  lawn,  especially  if  manure  has  been  used  in  the 
preparation.  It  is  not  necessary  to  pull  out  the  annuals,  for  if  the  turf 
is  cut  they  will  not  seed  themselves.  Remove  only  the  perennials,  such 
as  burdock  and  plantain.  Tread  on  the  holes  thus  left  and  fill  them 
with  compost  and  seed.  It  is  better  to  weed  in  the  fall,  as  in  the 
spring  crab  grass  is  apt  to  get  into  bare  spots.  Perennial  weeds  should 
be  cut  out  with  a  knife,  securing  as  much  of  the  roots  as  possible;  or 
a  drop  or  two  of  gasoline  will  generally  kill  the  plants.  Moss  and 
sorrel  in  a  lawn  indicate  a  sour  soil  needing  liberal  applications  of  air- 
slaked  lime.  Crab  grass  causes  considerable  trouble  if  once  established 
and  care  should  be  taken  to  remove  all  portions  of  the  roots. 

ENEMIES  TO  LAWNS.  Weeds  are  the  most  important  enemies  to 
lawns.  The  best  way  to  eradicate  weeds  in  a  lawn  that  is  otherwise 
worth  saving  is  to  dig  them  out,  fill  the  holes  with  good  topsoil,  and  sow 
fresh  seed.  Spraying  with  chemicals  and  patent  remedies  has  never 
proved  effective.  Angle  worms  or  fishworms  may  be  destroyed  by  the 
following  spray:  Dissolve  in  two  gallons  of  boiling  water  one  pound  of 
common  salt  and  add  one  pound  of  corrosive  sublimate.  Dilute  the 
above  with  four  gallons  of  water  to  make  a  stock  solution.  One  pint 
of  the  stock  solution  should  be  added  to  sixteen  gallons  of  water  and 
sprayed  over  the  lawn.  Army  worms  may  be  destroyed  while  young  by 
a  spray  made  by  dissolving  three  pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead  in  fifty 
gallons  of  water.  This  should  be  sprayed  over  the  lawn  until  it  is 
white.  While  white  grubs  are  among  the  grass  roots  in  late  July  in 


MAINTENANCE  87 

preparation  to  emerge  as  adult  beetles  they  may  be  crushed  by  rolling 
the  lawn  with  a  ten-ton  roller,  but  failing  this  heroic  treatment,  there 
seems  to  be.  no  simpler  remedy. 

MOWING  LAWNS.  Mowing  of  lawns  should  be  governed  by  the  use 
to  which  the  lawn  is  to  be  put.  Mowing  should  not  be  very  frequent 
in  hot  weather  nor  very  long  neglected  at  seasons  when  the  grass  is 
growing  rapidly.  Clipping  should  cease  before  the  grass  stops  grow- 
ing in  the  autumn,  so  that  a  long  growth  may  be  left  on  the  lawn  over 
winter.  A  portion  of  the  clippings  should  be  left  on  a  lawn  to  act  as  a 
mulch,  especially  if  the  grass  is  cut  often.  Enough  grass  leaves 
must  be  left  on  each  plant  so  that  it  can  maintain  its  growth,  but  on 
the  other  hand,  growth  must  not  be  carried  to  the  point  of  seed  pro- 
duction, which,  more  than  anything  else,  tends  to  weaken  the  vitality 
of  a  plant.  About  two  inches  is  the  height  most  often  recommended 
for  grass.  It  is  best  to  leave  mower  knives  set  high  and  mow  more 
frequently  rather  than  to  allow  grass  to  grow  high  and  then  cut  it  low 
and  thus  remove  too  large  a  portion  of  the  leaf  surface  of  the  plant,  and 
also  expose  the  soil  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun.  When  a  lawn  becomes 
run  down  it  is  generally  better  to  remake  it  entirely,  instead  of  wasting 
money  on  patching.  It  is  well  to  consider  that  if  the  original  grass 
could  not  succeed  on  the  soil,  new  grass  will  certainly  fail. 

PERENNIALS — WINTER  PROTECTION.  In  general,  the  better  es- 
tablished a  perennial  is,  the  less  winter  protection  it  requires.  How- 
ever, even  though  plants  would  winter  over  safely  if  uncovered,  they 
should  be  protected  from  the  heaving  which  follows  alternate  thawing 
and  freezing.  In  the  case  of  perennials  planted  in  the  autumn  this  is 
exceedingly  important  for  the  first  winter.  Snow  is  a  good  protective 
covering,  but  it  is  rarely  that  plants  will  be  so  covered  during  the  entire 
winter.  It  is  accordingly  advisable  to  apply  a  mulch. 

Mulching  in  the  fall  provides  an  opportunity  for  fertilizing  as  well  as 
protection,  especially  if  good  straw  manure  is  used.  Straw  or  corn- 
stalks provide  excellent  mulch  for  perennials  but  both  encourage  mice. 
These  pests  may  be  killed  by  poisoned  wheat  or  by  pouring  carbon 
bisulphide  down  their  burrows.  Where  mice  are  especially  trouble- 
some, a  compost  of  leaves,  sawdust,  lawn  rakings,  etc.,  should  be  used, 
inasmuch  as  heavy  litter  or  one  containing  grain  is  ideal  for  attracting 
animals.  Perennials  such  as  lilies,  whose  crowns  are  completely  under- 
ground, require  the  greatest  protection.  Perennials  such  as  primroses 


88  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

and  foxgloves,  which  carry  over  some  fleshy  foliage,  must  be  covered 
lightly,  if  at  all,  to  prevent  rotting  of  the  crowns.  It  is  desirable  to 
leave  dead  tops,  stalks,  etc.,  on  the  plants  until  spring.  The  tops  will 
protect  the  plants  to  some  extent  over  winter  and  there  is  also  less 
danger  to  the  plant  from  premature  removal  of  tops  in  the  fall  before 
the  latter  are  entirely  dead.  Cultivation  should  cease  in  the  fall  after 
danger  from  weed  seeds  maturing  is  past.  This  will  discourage  too 
late  growth,  and  any  weeds  will  serve  as  a  protective  covering. 

It  is  important  that  mulch  for  perennial  gardens  should  not  be 
applied  too  early.  There  is  a  great  danger  in  applying  a  litter  of  straw 
manure  or  leaves  before  the  warm  weather  is  fully  over,  and  thus 
encouraging  top  growth  which  either  rots  during  the  winter  or  is  frozen. 
Mulch  should  not  be  applied  until  after  the  first  heavy  frosts,  and 
preferably  not  until  the  ground  is  slightly  frozen  in  the  early  winter. 
The  tufted  pansy,  primrose,  and  Shasta  daisy  are  very  susceptible  to 
injury  from  a  heavy  mulch. 

Mulch  should  not  be  removed  until  danger  from  extreme  weather  is 
past.  The  time  for  removal  is  governed  by  local  conditions.  The 
mulch  should  be  removed  gradually — not  all  at  once — and  extreme 
care  should  be  used  in  removal  in  order  not  to  injure  or  destroy  smaller 
plants  or  plants  which  appear  late  in  the  spring.  Any  mulch  has  a 
tendency  to  delay  the  spring  development  of  the  roots.  It  should  be 
removed,  however,  before  the  ground  has  become  so  warm  that  root 
growth  has  become  definitely  encouraged  and  the  sprouts  which  are 
starting  to  grow  are  becoming  weak  and  spindly. 

DIVIDING  PERENNIALS,  AND  RENOVATING  BEDS.  There  are  some 
perennials  which  are  benefited  by  being  allowed  to  remain  permanently 
in  one  place,  such  as  peonies,  gas  plants,  and  bleeding-heart,  but  the 
vast  majority  of  plants  are  not  likely  to  improve  unless  taken  up  from 
time  to  time,  divided,  and  reset.  This  is  especially  true  of  plants  like 
the  iris  and  the  sneeze-weed  which  spread  underground  and  form  mats, 
soon  exhaust  soil  fertility,  and  engage  in  a  severe  struggle  which  ham- 
pers their  ornamental  development.  Likewise,  crowns  of  perennials 
which  give  the  most  desirable  flowers  bloom  only  two  or  three  seasons 
and  then  die.  There  is  also  the  necessity  for  renewing  the  biennials 
such  as  foxgloves,  canterbury  bells,  hollyhocks,  and  sweet  williams. 
Some  perennials  such  as  oriental  poppies  should  not  be  moved  but 
may  be  divided  with  a  sharp  trowel.  The  general  practice  is  to 


MAINTENANCE  89 

lift  and  divide  the  roots  of  perennials  every  two  or  three  years. 
Spreading  and  shallow-rooted  perennials  will  thrive  and  flower  much 
better  if  divided  and  transplanted  each  year.  If  this  "dividing"  is  not 
undertaken  each  year  the  "clumps"  become  crowded  and  the  individu- 
al flowering  stocks  do  not  have  an  opportunity  to  develop  normally. 
The  result  is  that  many  dead  stocks  remain  in  the  middle  of  the  clump 
and  a  much  inferior  type  of  flower  is  produced. 

Illustrations  of  this  group  of  perennials  which  should  be  divided 
each  season  and  preferably  during  the  early  spring  before  growth 
begins  are  the  hardy  asters,  the  sneeze-weed,  yellow  marguerite,  ball 
of  snow,  English  daisy,  and  the  pompom  chrysanthemum.  If  these 
plants  are  not  taken  up,  divided,  and  replanted  in  good  rich  soil,  the 
plants  during  the  succeeding  year  will  not  produce  large  flowering  heads, 
neither  will  they  produce  the  strong,  vigorous  growth  which  they  are 
accustomed  to  produce.  Most  of  these  plants  are  vigorous  growers  and 
heavy  feeders  and  it  does  not  take  them  long  to  sap  from  the  soil  much 
of  the  good  food  matter  which  is  so  necessary  to  their  normal  growth. 

The  plume  poppy,  Shasta  daisy,  and  yellow  marguerite  will  be 
surrounded  by  a  large  number  of  young  plants,  which  spread  out  and 
surround  the  parent  plant,  with  the  result  that  a  number  of  inferior 
plants  occupy  the  space  which  should  be  occupied  by  only  a  few  fine, 
thrifty  specimens,  providing  the  parent  plants  are  not  divided  and 
transplanted  each  year.  With  the  yellow  marguerite  especially,  it  is 
much  better  to  discard  the  old  roots  and  to  preserve  in  the  dividing  only 
those  roots  which  are  the  result  of  the  previous  year's  development  as 
offshoots  from  the  parent  plant.  Many  times  the  seedlings  that 
spring  up  around  these  plants  are  equally  as  preferable  if  trans- 
planted and  given  ample  space  to  develop  normally. 

In  the  group  of  plants  which  should  be  divided  at  least  every  two 
years  are  included  a  few  of  the  more  vigorous  types  of  the  garden  phlox 
together  with  the  boltonia  and  the  bee-balm. 

There  is  a  group  of  perennials  which  should  be  divided  on  the 
average  of  once  every  three  years.  They  will  not  be  benefited  through 
the  process  of  being  divided  at  more  frequent  intervals.  This  list 
includes  the  common  garden  phlox,  painted  daisy,  most  types  of  the 
larkspur,  the  lily-of-the-valley,  a  few  asters,  and  the  hardy  sun-flowers. 
The  common  impression  with  reference  to  the  lily-of-the-valley  is  that 
it  should  not  be  divided  or  transplanted  after  the  time  of  transplanting 
the  original  plants.  Those  persons  who  have  had  an  intimate  acquain- 


90  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

tance  with  the  flowering  habits  of  this  plant  state  that  it  should  be 
divided  at  least  once  every  three  years  if  an  abundance  of  large  blooms 
is  to  be  obtained. 

Such  plants  as  the  larkspur  should  be  divided  with  great  care  every 
three  or  four  years  and  each  division  of  this  plant  should  be  left  with 
a  good  crown  attached  to  which  is  a  quantity  of  good  fibrous  root 
growth. 

The  greatest  success  in  dividing  perennials  will  be  attained  with 
those  plants  whose  roots  can  be  readily  pulled  apart  with  no  severe 
ruptures.  Those  plants  which  have  heavy  roots  like  the  larkspur  and 
some  of  the  irises  should  be  subdivided  with  much  greater  care. 
Biennials  will  renew  themselves  by  seeding  if  the  soil  is  not  disturbed 
around  them  to  any  great  extent.  A  few  perennials  such  as  the  yellow 
marguerite  and  some  of  the  hardy  asters  will  also  renew  themselves 
each  year  by  seeds  dropped  from  the  parent  plant.  Every  perennial 
garden  is  benefited  by  a  thorough  spading  over  at  least  once  in  three 
years.  When  a  garden  is  filled  with  perennials  the  spading  does  not  in 
general  reach  deep  into  the  soil,  nor  does  it  cover  the  entire  area.  The 
best  soil  for  these  plants  is  one  which  is  friable  and  not  too  compact. 
This  is  the  reason  for  spading  every  two  or  three  years. 

Plants  may  be  dug  up  and  separated  by  hand  or  thinned  out  in  the 
beds  by  cutting  with  a  clean,  sharp  spade  or  trowel  and  removing  the 
excess  plants.  Replanting  should  be  done  in  fresh  soil  if  possible,  or 
some  new  soil  and  bone  meal  would  better  be  worked  in.  Care  should 
be  taken  in  the  replanting  that  the  crown  of  the  plant  is  not  smothered. 
It  is  equally  fatal  to  the  plant  to  be  set  too  low  or  too  high.  Divide 
and  replant  in  the  spring  those  fall-blooming  sorts  which  continue  in 
full  bloom  until  late  in  the  season,  such  as  chrysanthemums  and  ane- 
mones, and  all  fleshy-rooted  plants  except  the  peony.  (For  the  peony 
and  the  iris  in  particular,  and  for  planting  perennials  in  general  see 
Pages  39  and  47.)  The  best  time  of  the  year  for  lifting  and  separating 
perennials  in  general  is  probably  the  fall.  The  early-flowering  peren- 
nials like  some  of  the  irises  and  the  leopard's  bane  should  give  the  best 
result  by  dividing  and  transplanting  shortly  after  they  have  completed 
their  flowering  period.  One  objection  to  fall  planting,  however,  is 
that  the  smaller  plants  heave  out  if  planted  too  late  or  are  apt  to 
get  lost  during  mulching  or  in^the  "cleaning  up"  work  of  the  spring. 
Plants  with  heavy  tops  or  fleshy  robts  in  general,  except  the  iris  and  the 
peony,  are  more  liable  to  rot  if  planted  in  the  fall.  If  the  planting  of 


MAINTENANCE  91 

them  is  done  at  this  season  it  should  be  begun  in  the  latter  part  of 
August,  if  possible.  The  regular  mulching,  so  necessary  for  all  plants 
set  in  the  autumn,  should  not  be  forgotten  when  the  winter  comes  on. 
During  the  summer  a  fine  mulch  of  some  sort  may  be  kept  on  a  per- 
ennial border  to  good  advantage  as  it  prevents  loss  of  moisture,  saves 
labour  otherwise  necessary  in  cultivating,  stops  spattering  of  mud  over 
the  leaves  of  smaller  plants,  and  prevents  baking  of  the  soil  after  rains. 

FERTILIZING  PERENNIALS  AND  ANNUALS.  Perennials  need  a  great 
dealjrf  food-  and  should  have  plant  food  to  restore  soil  fertility.  Such 
heavy  feeders  as  phloxes  and  peonies  should  receive  applications  of 
bone  meal  and  liquid  manure.  Such  applications  when  the  plants  are 
in  bud  will  frequently  improve  the  size  and  quality  of  the  flowers. 
Manure  for  fall  mulching  will  also  enrich  the  plants.  The  finer  part 
can  be  worked  into  the  beds  during  the  spring,  but  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  injure  or  destroy  roots  or  smaller  plants.  Peonies  and  irises  in 
general,  like  all  plants  with  thick,  fleshy  roots  or  rootstocks,  are  sick- 
ened by  manure.  Bone  meal  is  perfectly  safe  to  use  and  is  in  every 
way  the  best  fertilizer  for  them.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Japanese 
irises,  with  their  fibrous  roots,  revel  in  cow  manure.  They,  like  iris 
longipetala,  are  indifferent  to  lime  which  to  all  other  moisture-loving 
irises,  with  the  exception  of  the  spuria  group,  is  objectionable. 

Beds  must  be  kept  entirely  free  from  weeds  until  fall.  Where 
mulch  is  not  maintained  around  the  plants  cultivation  should  be  kept 
up,  especially  after  a  rain,  to  prevent  evaporation. 

In  the  development  of  the  annual  flower  garden  the  soil  should  be 
thoroughly  spaded  over  each  spring  and  well  pulverized.  A  good 
coating  of  well-rotted  manure  should  be  thoroughly  spaded  into  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  four  inches  to  eight  inches.  During  the  flowering  season 
of  these  plants  it  may  become  necessary,  on  account  of  the  lack  of  suf- 
ficient food,  to  supply  some  quick-acting  fertilizer  such  as  sheep 
manure  or  dried  blood  which  will  force  their  growth  and  assist  greatly 
in  developing  larger  and  more  abundant  flowers.  A  slight  sprinkling 
of  sheep  manure  or  dried  blood  around  each  of  the  plants  will  be 
sufficient.  It  may  be  advisable  to  repeat  this  fertilizing  operation 
at  intervals  of  three  or  four  weeks  during  the  flowering  season.  Nitrate 
of  soda  is  sometimes  used  as  a  plant  stimulant.  It  is  much  more  dan- 
gerous, however,  than  either  sheep  manure  or  dried  blood  because  an 
overdose  is  very  apt  to  burn  and  injure  the  plants. 


92  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

WATERING  OF  PERENNIALS.  Watering  must  be  attended  to,  es- 
pecially during  dry  spells.  One  good  soaking  a  week  is  much  more 
valuable  to  plants  than  many  light  sprinklings  which  do  not  wet  the 
soil  to  any  appreciable  depth.  On  sandy  and  very  light  soils  it  will  be 
necessary  to  water  thoroughly  every  day  or  every  second  day  during  the 
dryest  part  of  the  season.  Where  it  is  not  possible  to  water  all  the 
plants  thoroughly  at  one  time,  divide  the  beds  into  sections  and  water 
the  various  sections  in  rotation.  Watering  in  the  later  afternoon  or 
evening  hours  has  a  more  lasting  effect  than  during  the  hotter  portion 
of  the  day.  Watering  can  be  overdone  as  it  can  be  carried  to  the 
point  where  the  soil  becomes  water-logged  and  will  consequently 
sour.  Too  much  superficial  watering  of  open-ground  plants  induces 
surface  rooting  which  is  not  satisfactory,  as  such  plants  do  not 
have  access  to  large  stores  of  food,  and  consequently  cannot  with- 
stand drought  successfully.  Transplanted  perennials  should  be  wat- 
ered thoroughly  and  left  alone  a  few  days  till  they  become  somewhat 
established. 

The  statement  is  sometimes  made  that  water  from  wells  is  too  cold 
to  be  suited  for  watering  plants,  and  also  that  such  water  often  lacks 
chemicals  which  serve  as  plant  food.  On  the  contrary,  successful 
gardeners  often  water  plants  at  midday  on  hot  summer  days  in  order 
to  gain  the  cooling  effect  of  the  water  when  it  is  most  needed.  It  is 
also  believed  by  some  experienced  observers  that  water  falling  on  the 
soil  reaches  the  soil  temperature  very  quickly  after  being  absorbed  and 
in  all  but  a  negligible  number  of  instances,  before  it  reaches  the  roots 
of  plants.  With  regard  to  the  question  of  the  amount  of  plant  food 
contained  in  water  from  a  deep-driven  well  as  compared  to  the 
amount  found  in  surface  water  such  as  that  flowing  in  a  creek  or  river 
there  seems  to  be  little  reason  to  think  that  water  from  wells  is  lack- 
ing in  plant  food  to  such  an  extent  as  to  make  it  less  valuable  than 
surface  water.  It  is  UQW  agreed  that  surface  water  contains  more  solid 
matter  in  suspension  while  subterranean  water  has  its  load  of  solid  mat- 
ter in  solution.  Therefore  the  plant  food  which  occurs  in  water  from  a 
driven  well  differs  from  the  plant  food  found  in  river  water  merely  in 
being  more  likely  to  occur  in  solution  rather  than  in  suspension.  The 
water  which  is  taken  from  artesian  wells  is  not  always  sterile  and 
often  contains  nitrates  in  large  quantities  due  to  the  reduction  of  the 
nitrates  which  occur  in  deep  layers  in  the  soil.  When  this  water  is 
used  for  irrigating  the  surface  layer  6f  the  soil,  the  nitrifying  bacteria 


MAINTENANCE  93 

change  the  nitrites  back  to  nitrates.  In  regions  rich  in  humus,  ground 
water  often  contains  organic  as  well  as  inorganic  matter.  Well  water 
may  and  often  does  contain  plant  food  which  is  very  valuable  in  the 
form  of  nitrates  or  ammonia. 

REMOVING  SEED  PODS  AND  GENERAL  CARE.  Summer  care  of 
perennials  consists  of  removing  seed  stems  and  dead  flowers.  It  is 
extremely  important  to  remove  dead  flowers  at  once,  as  formation  of 
seeds  weakens  a  plant.  And  with  many  plants,  such  as  the  larkspur 
and  foxglove,  new  flowers  also  will  be  produced  if  the  old  flowers  are 
"removed  immediately  after  blooming.  There  is  a  considerable  differ- 
ence of  opinion  concerning  the  general  maintenance  of  the  larkspur. 
Some  persons  think  that  the  stock  of  this  plant  should  be  cut  down  to  a 
height  of  four  inches  to  six  inches  immediately  after  flowering,  other 
persons  feel  that  it  should  not  be  cut  to  a  height  of  less  than  twelve 
inches  to  fifteen  inches.  The  author's  personal  experience  has  been 
that  if  these  plants  are  cut  back  immediately  after  flowering  to  a  height 
of  four  inches  to  six  inches  new  shoots  will  be  developed  which  will  not 
attain  the  height  of  the  original  plant  but  will  develop  excellent  flowers 
during  the  latter  part  of  September.  Support  tall-growing  plants  with 
neat  stakes.  In  this  class  are  asters,  boltonias,  and  larkspurs.  Do  not 
delay  the  staking  until  the  plants  have  begun  to  fall  over.  Bare 
spaces  among  plants  in  a  border  should  be  filled  with  annuals,  if 
necessary,  as  this  will  not  only  improve  the  general  effect  but  help 
also  to  keep  the  ground  shaded  and  cool,  and  provide  bright  spots  of 
colour  after  the  first  flush  of  bloom  among  the  perennials  is  over. 
Bare  spaces  may  be  filled  by  bringing  in  plants  from  a  reserve  garden 
where  they  may  be  held  in  pots.  New  varieties  of  perennials  and 
biennials  should  be  propagated  and  transplanted  to  the  bed  or  border 
to  replace  plants  that  run  out  or  begin  to  fail.  Seedlings  will  spring 
up  from  many  plants,  such  as  anemones,  marguerites,  hollyhocks,  and 
campanulas,  when  seed  pods  are  allowed  to  form.  Such  plants  can  be 
used  to  fill  up  open  spaces. 

DISEASES  OF  PERENNIALS  AND  CONTROL.  Perennials,  taken  as  a 
class,  under  fairly  favourable  conditions  are  not  particularly  susceptible 
to  disease.  In  general,  when  diseases  attack  perennial  plants,  the 
safest  thing  to  do  is  to  throw  them  away.  Aphis  and  minor  insect 
troubles  may  be  easily  controlled  by  spraying. 


94  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

The  following  plants,  if  attacked  by  leaf  spots  or  mildews,  may  be 
saved  by  fungicides  (See  Page  77) : 

Alyssum  (mildew). 

Anemone  (root  decay  and  rust).     Destroy  affected  roots. 

Aquilegia  (mildew  and  black  spot). 

Campanula  (red  and  brown  rust).     Keep  away  from  pinus  rigida. 

Chrysanthemum   (leaf  spot  or  powdery  mildew).     If  rusted,  plants  should  be 

destroyed. 

Convallaria  (stem  rot).     Burn  affected  plants. 
Coreopsis  (mildew). 

Delphinium  (black  spot  on  leaves).     Remove  and  burn. 
Ferns  (tip  blight). 

Hollyhock  (leaf  spot).     If  attacked  by  rust  or  anthracnose  destroy  the  plants. 
Iberis  (club  root).     Use  lime  in  soil. 
Papaver  (mildew). 

Peony  (stem  rot,  leaf  spot,  botyrides). 
Phlox  (leaf  spot  and  powdery  mildew,  and  stem  canker). 
Sedum  (leaf  spot). 
Thalictrum  (red  spot). 
Veronica  (leaf  disease),  (leaf  spot). 
Violets  (leaf  spot  and  leaf  blight). 

Root  rot  of  violets  and  nematodes  on  the  roots  require  soil  treatment 
and  sterilization. 

Bulb  spot  of  irises  should  be  treated  by  soaking  the  bulbs  for  one 
hour  in  formalin  solution,  consisting  of  one  ounce  in  two  gallons  of 
water.  Root  rot  which  is  found  usually  only  in  the  midst  of  an  old 
matted  clump  is  overcome  by  breaking  the  rhizomes  from  the  clump, 
cutting  off  the  decay,  and  planting  in  new  soil  with  a  watering  of 
potassium  permanganate,  only  enough  to  make  the  water  of  light  pink 
colour. 

MAINTENANCE  OF  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  GARDENS.  No  attempt  should 
be  made  to  develop  a  garden  of  any  kind  until  a  careful  analysis  has 
first  been  made  concerning  the  probable  cost  for  future  maintenance. 
This  applies  equally  as  well  to  the  extensive  estate  as  it  does  to  the 
detailed  flower  garden  and  to  the  average  residence  property.  Plants 
are  growing  things  and  require  constant  attention  in  greater  or  less 
degree  varying  with  types  of  development,  whether  of  extreme  formality 
or  extreme  informality,  intended  to  produce  certain  effects.  Many 
require  an  extremely  abnormal  quantity  of  labour  and  others  require  a 
minimum  of  labour  for  their  average  maintenance. 


PLATE  XIV.  The  list  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  thrive  in  the  congested 
city  districts  where  soil  conditions  are  poor  and  the  air  is  polluted  with  smoke 
and  dust,  is  limited  to  a  few  kinds,  of  which  the  tree-of-heaven,  locust  and 
catalpa  are  typical.  (See  page  119,  group  XI-A) 


PLATE  XV.  An  interesting  use  of  hedges  to  frame  one  side  of  the  refined  for- 
mal garden.  Japanese  quince  on  the  left  side  of  the  walk,  Japanese  barberry 
against  the  right  side  accented  with  sheared  retmosporas,  and  buttresses  of 
Japanese  quince  and  Amoor  River  privet  on  the  extreme  left  against  the  vine- 
covered  wall,  form  the  features  of  this  composition.  (See  page  124)  „ 


MAINTENANCE  95 

WILD  GARDEN.  Many  people  labour  under  the  impression  that  the 
woodland  wild  garden  demands  very  little,  if  any,  attention  on  the 
maintenance  end.  The  maintenance  of  a  woodland  wild  garden  is  a 
problem,  to  those  who  really  understand  its  development  and  success, 
of  almost  as  much  importance  as  the  maintenance  of  the  more  re- 
fined formal  garden.  It  matters  not  what  the  garden  may  be,  either 
the  woodland  wild  garden  or  the  refined  garden,  undesirable  weeds  and 
grass  will  develop  if  it  is  not  given  the  necessary  attention  and  cultiva- 
tion. The  wild  garden  cannot  be  cultivated  as  deep  or  as  frequently 
as  the  refined  flower  garden.  Not  only  must  the  owner  ward  against 
the  development  of  weeds  but  he  must  watch  carefully  to  be  certain 
that  those  types  of  plants  which  are  more  vigorous  growing  or  which 
seem  to  be  best  adapted  to  their  particular  location  do  not  spread  or 
unnecessarily  crowd  out  certain  other  desirable  plants  less  vigorous  in 
their  habit  of  growth  and  less  apt  to  thrive  in  the  competition  to  which 
they  are  subjected.  There  will  be  places  in  the  wild  garden  where  soil 
conditions  are  not  exactly  as  they  should  be,  and  where  soil  should 
be  renovated  or  manured  and  where  additional  leaf  mold  soil  should  be 
added. 

ANNUAL  FLOWER  GARDEN.  Careful  and  frequent  attention  must  be 
devoted  to  the  maintenance  of  annuals  during  the  growing  season  and 
especially  during  the  flowering  season  if  the  best  success  is  to  be  ob- 
tained with  this  type  of  garden.  Those  annuals  like  the  mid-season 
and  late  asters  need  only  normal  care.  Such  plants  have  but  one 
flowering  season  and  it  is  rare  that  any  secondary  flowers  are  de- 
veloped on  these  plants  through  intelligent  cutting,  as  is  the  case 
especially  with  the  snapdragons  and  also  with  calendulas,  marigolds, 
and  pansies.  The  snapdragon  perhaps  is  one  of  the  most  valuable 
flowering  annuals  for  a  long  period  of  bloom.  It  will  begin  its  bloom  in 
late  June  or  early  July  and  will  continue  to  bloom  until  frost  retards  its 
growth.  Such  plants  however,  will  not  produce  an  abundance  of  fine 
flowers  if  encouraged  to  persistently  produce  flowers  throughout  the 
entire  growing  season.  The  snapdragon  will  produce  the  best  flowers 
if  given  a  rest  during  some  part  of  the  summer.  For  instance,  plants 
which  begin  flowering  in  late  June  or  early  July  should  be  permitted  to 
flower  for  four  or  five  weeks.  They  should  then  be  severely  cut  back  to 
a  height  of  four  inches  to  six  inches  and  a  new  growth  permitted  to 
develop  and  produce  flowers  during  late  August  and  September. 


96  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

The  one  most  important  duty  in  the  successful  growing  of  annual 
flowering  plants,  in  order  to  continue  their  period  of  bloom,  is  to  keep  all 
portions  of  the  plant  from  developing  seed  pods.  Those  branches 
which  have  produced  flowers  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  bloom 
has  ceased.  Most  of  the  annuals  like  the  calendulas  and  marigolds 
are  encouraged  to  produce  more  bloom  through  this  process  of  keeping 
seed  pods  removed  and  the  branches  severely  cut  back.  Other 
annuals  like  the  annual  larkspur,  the  matricaria,  the  annual  baby's- 
breath,  and  the  bachelor  button  will  not  develop  a  secondary  growth, 
and  must  therefore  be  planted  in  successive  sowings  to  secure  a  con- 
tinuous supply  of  flowers. 

REFINED  FORMAL  GARDEN.  The  refined  formal  garden  is  developed 
through  the  use  of  various  types  of  perennials  and  annuals.  The  same 
rules  apply  to  the  general  maintenance  of  a  garden  of  this  kind  that 
apply  to  the  general  maintenance  of  perennials  and  annuals.  This 
type  of  garden  however,  unlike  the  other  types  of  gardens,  rock 
garden,  wild  garden,  informal  garden,  etc.,  should,  if  developed,  be 
perfectly  maintained.  A  formal  flower  garden  for  its  real  success 
depends  upon  well-defined  masses  and  definite  major  and  minor  axis 
lines.  Extreme  care  should  be  devoted  to  the  clipping  of  all  hedges 
and  the  maintenance  of  the  outlines  of  the  definite  masses  of  plants! 
All  turf  borders  and  walks  should  be  neatly  trimmed  and  carefully 
edged  and  little  if  any  of  the  informal  loose  effect,  so  common  to  the 
informal  garden  and  to  the  wild  garden,  should  be  permitted.  The 
author  attempts  to  discuss  this  question  together  with  the  question  of 
maintenance  pertaining  to  the  other  types  of  gardens  in  order  to  make 
clear  that  in  the  selection  of  the  plants  in  landscape  work  the  item  of 
subsequent  maintenance  is  one  of  the  important  factors  in  the  success- 
ful development  of  the  formal  flower  garden  to  an  even  greater  extent 
than  in  other  types  of  gardens. 

INFORMAL  FLOWER  GARDEN.  The  informal  flower  garden  requires 
less  maintenance  care  than  the  formal  flower  garden.  It  is  not  so 
essential  that  the  masses  of  plants  and  the  outline  of  walks  should  be  as 
carefully  defined.  There  is  no  garden,  not  even  the  wild  garden, 
that  does  not  require  constant  attention  for  the  best  results.  The  same 
questions  of  maintenance  apply  to  the  informal  garden  in  the  same 
way  that  they  do  to  the  maintenance  of  perennials  and  annuals.  The 


MAINTENANCE  97 

only  point  which  the  author  wishes  to  make  clear  is  that  from  the  very 
informal  nature  of  the  garden  the  question  of  maintenance  cost  is  not 
as  great  as  the  maintenance  cost  of  the  formal  garden. 

ROCK  GARDEN.  Many  persons  labour  under  the  impression  that 
the  rock  garden  does  not  require  constant  attention.  To  successfully 
develop  a  rock  garden  planting  requires  more  thorough  knowledge 
of  plants  than  the  development  of  the  refined  flower  garden  or  the 
informal  garden.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  those  plants  which 
succeed  in  the  rock  garden  development  are  much  more  uncommon 
than  the  plants  which  succeed  in  other  types  of  gardens  and  less  oppor- 
tunity is  afforded  for  intelligent  study  of  their  habits  of  growth  and 
flowering  characteristics.  The  rock  garden,  like  the  wild  garden,  is 
often  thought  of  as  a  garden  in  which  plants  enter  into  a  competition 
for  "the  survival  of  the  fittest."  Quite  to  the  contrary,  intelligent 
maintenance  must  be  applied  in  order  to  eventually  develop  the  plan 
as  originally  intended.  Most  of  the  plants  adapted  to  the  rock 
garden  are  the  dwarf,  slow-growing  types  which  continue  to  become 
larger  from  year  to  year.  They  must  be  kept  within  bounds  by  intelli- 
gent pruning  which  will  not  destroy  their  effect.  Occasionally  many 
plants  are  introduced  into  the  rock  garden  planting  which  require 
much  more  attention  on  account  of  the  water  which  is  necessary 
for  their  normal  growth.  A  rock  garden  is  not  a  garden  from  which 
flowers  are  to  be  picked.  The  period  of  bloom  is  usually  the  period 
when  the  plant  is  most  valuable  for  its  effect  in  the  garden  and  the 
flowers  should  not  be  removed  at  that  time. 

CUTTING  GARDEN.  The  cutting  garden  is  perhaps  the  most  simple 
garden  and  the  easiest  garden  to  maintain.  The  only  problem  of  such 
a  garden  is  to  provide  easy  access  to  plants  placed  in  definite  rows  with 
sufficient  space  for  easy  cultivation.  In  a  garden  of  this  kind  plants 
are  permitted  their  freedom  of  growth  and  the  object  is  to  feed  them 
heavily  with  fertilizer  in  order  to  produce  the  most  desirable  flowers 
which  are  to  be  cut  at  a  time  when  the  plants  are  at  their  height  of 
bloom.  The  problem  of  maintenance  is  one  of  supplying  sufficient 
fertilizer  to  keep  the  flowers  growing  vigorously,  of  cultivating  them 
frequently,  and  watering  freely. 

ROSE  GARDEN.  The  object  of  the  average  rose  garden  is  to  produce 
an  abundance  of  bloom  and  to  produce  large  individual  flowers.  The 


98  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

rose  garden  for  the  best  success  of  the  plants  requires  careful  main- 
tenance. The  hybrid  roses,  which  are  usually  grafted  stock,  revert 
quickly  to  the  original  type  if  suckers  are  allowed  to  develop  and 
not  kept  within  control.  The  rose  garden  beds  should  be  kept  clean 
of  other  plants  unless  provided  with  English  tufted  pansies  or  por- 
tulaca.  If  the  rose  garden  is  a  part  of  some  formal  garden  develop- 
ment and  the  beds  are  edged  with  any  small  hedge  or  edging  plant  such 
as  the  alyssum,  then  extreme  care  should  be  exercised  to  be  certain 
that  these  plants  are  kept  neatly  trimmed  and  within  definite  bounds. 
One  of  the  important  problems  in  the  maintenance  of  the  rose  garden 
is  that  of  knowing  the  different  types  of  hybrids  and  how  these  plants 
should  be  pruned  in  order  to  encourage  the  production  of  more  flowers 
or  of  larger  flowers.  This  question  is  too  extensive  to  be  discussed  in 
the  short  space  available,  but  there  are  numerous  books  which  discuss 
at  length  the  development  and  care  of  the  rose  garden. 

FERTILIZING  ROSES.  When  rose  garden  beds  have  been  properly 
prepared  by  the  introduction  of  plant  food  in  the  form  of  manure, 
bone,  and  lime,  all  that  remains  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  fertilization 
may  be  easily  attended  to  by  top-dressing  from  time  to  time.  Liquid 
manure  should  never  be  given  in  dry  weather  without  first  thoroughly 
wetting  the  soil  with  plain  water,  but  it  may  be  used  at  frequent  inter- 
vals provided  it  is  not  too  strong.  Dried  blood  may  be  used  either  in 
water  or  dry  at  the  rate  of  one  ounce  to  the  square  yard  during  May, 
June,  and  July  if  hoed  well  into  the  surface  soil.  Wood  ashes  and  bone 
meal  in  small  quantities  may  be  used  in  a  similar  manner  after  growth 
starts.  These  dry  fertilizers  should  be  used  only  just  before  a  good 
rain  or  should  be  followed  by  a  thorough  soaking  with  the  hose. 

WALL  GARDEN.  The  wall  garden  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting types  of  gardens.  A  wall  garden  should  never  be  attempted 
unless  those  responsible  for  its  maintenance  feel  certain  that  the 
proper  kind  of  intelligent  maintenance  care  can  be  devoted  to  such  a 
garden.  A  list  of  plants  which  are  adapted  for  producing  wall  garden 
effects  is  small.  It  is  not  so  much  the  question  of  quantity  of  main- 
tenance as  it  is  the  question  of  the  degree  of  intelligent  maintenance 
which  makes  for  the  failure  or  success  of  the  wall  garden.  The 
greatest  success  is  attained  with  wall  garden  development  when 
those  responsible  for  its  maintenance  make  it  a  special  point  to  thor- 


MAINTENANCE  99 

oughly  familiarize  themselves  with  the  growing  habits  and  the  re- 
quirements of  wall  garden  plants.  If  this  is  not  done  the  garden  is 
very  apt  to  deteriorate  into  a  normal  type  of  garden  with  a  few 
persistent  weeds  of  various  kinds  and  some  of  the  more  common 
and  easily  growing  annuals  like  alyssum  growing  from  the  crevices  of 
the  rocks. 

WATER  GARDEN.  The  water  garden  is  the  one  garden  which  re- 
quires less  attention  than  any  other  garden  when  it  is  once  correctly 
developed.  The  main  problem  is  that  of  keeping  a  supply  of  water 
which  is  in  no  degree  stagnant  and  in  knowing  the  requirements  for 
the  fertilizing  of  aquatic  plants  to  produce  the  best  development. 

(See  Page  220). 


CHAPTER  VIII 
WINTER  PROTECTION  AND  MULCHING 

REASONS  FOR  WINTER  PROTECTION.  Winter  protection  is  necessary 
under  the  following  conditions:  First — When  a  plant  is  removed  from 
its  natural  habitat  to  one  more  severe;  Second — When  plants  are  not 
sufficiently  hardy  to  withstand  the  new  climatic  conditions  or  ex- 
posures; Third — When  it  is  desirable  to  retain  ground  moisture  during 
the  winter  for  planting  on  exposed  places,  mounds  and  banks.  Fourth 
— When  plants  (especially  evergreens)  are  transplanted  into  a  stiff  clay 
soil  under  climatic  conditions  where  they  will  be  subjected  to  consider- 
able freezing  and  thawing  and  it  becomes  necessary  to  protect  them 
against  heaving;  Fifth — When  plants,  especially  rhododendrons  and 
other  evergreens,  must  be  protected  against  wind  and  sun  which  cause 
so  much  damage  on  account  of  excessive  evaporation  of  moisture  from 
the  leaves  at  a  time  when  no  moisture  is  being  taken  into  the  plant 
through  the  root  system.  Continued,  steady  cold  and  a  permanent 
covering  of  snow  are  generally  sufficient  to  tide  a  plant  through  the 
severest  part  of  winter,  but  an  open  winter,  followed  by  severe  cold, 
or  the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  in  spring,  will  work  havoc. 
Mulching,  therefore,  is  equally  important,  not  only  to  control  sudden 
changes  in  temperature  in  extreme  weather,  but  also  to  maintain  a  cool, 
even  temperature  in  early  spring. 

One  of  the  common  impressions  in  connection  with  mulching  for 
purposes  of  winter  protection  is  that  plants  are  really  being  pro- 
tected against  extreme  cold.  Nothing  could  be  farther  from  the 
truth.  It  is  not  possible  to  protect  plants  against  freezing  conditions, 
especially  during  the  cold  winters  of  our  north  when  frost  enters  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  two  to  three  feet.  Under  such  conditions  no  normal 
depth  of  mulch  consisting  of  rotted  leaves  or  manure  could  keep  frost 
out  of  the  soil  surrounding  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

The  real  reason  then  is  a  different  reason  from  that  of  being  a  desire 
to  ward  off  a  freezing  condition.  It  is  the  desire  not  of  warding  off  the 
cold  but  of  preventing  abnormal  evaporation  of  moisture  from  the 

100 


WINTER  PROTECTION  AND  MULCHING  101 

leaves  and  especially  from  the  lower  part  of  such  plants  as  the  roses 
which  are  particularly  sensitive  to  this  type  of  evaporation.  It  is  for 
this  reason  that  plants  which  do  not  have  well-ripened  wood  like  the 
golden  bell  and  certain  varieties  of  the  deutzia  are  subject  to  injury  be- 
cause of  this  evaporation.  Other  plants  like  the  bush  honeysuckle 
and  lilacs  which  succeed  in  developing  thoroughly  ripened  wood  before 
winter  approaches  do  not  surfer  so  much.  There  are  two  important 
sources  of  injury  (outside  of  the  gnawing  by  animals)  which  can  cause 
plants  to  be  injured  during  the  winter  months  and  as  a  protection 
against  which  mulching  is  necessary.  The  first  is  abnormal  evapora- 
tion from  the  roots  and  stems  of  plants  that  are  in  exposed  situations, 
and  the  second  a  liability  of  being  heaved  from  the  ground  where  a 
clay  loam  soil  is  subjected  to  violent  changes  of  freezing  and  thawing. 
It  is  for  this  same  reason  that  standard  roses  and  climbing  roses  are 
frequently  lost  during  the  winter  months  because  they  are  protected 
by  a  thin  covering  of  straw,  and  evaporation  is  allowed  to  continue, 
when,  in  reality,  they  should  be  taken  down  and  buried  in  soil  which 
remains  moist  throughout  the  winter  months  and  thus  protects  the 
stems  against  evaporation. 

SOURCES  OF  WINTER  INJURY,  AND  REMEDIES.  One  source  of  winter 
injury  is  a  heaving  in  clayey  soils  which  exposes  roots  of  small  and  newly 
transplanted  plants.  This  may  be  remedied  by  applying  a  ground  mulch 
of  straw  litter  or  manure  over  the  entire  area  immediately  around  the 
trees  and  covering  the  area  of  root  growth.  Another  source  is  pre- 
mature activity  of  the  sap,  due  to  the  warmth  of  the  sun's  rays.  If  the 
ground  is  frozen  hard  and  deep,  and  sun  and  severe  winds  strike  ever- 
green plants  they  will  "scorch"  or  dry  out  because  sap  cannot  flow  from 
the  roots  to  take  the  place  of  that  evaporated.  Many  evergreens  which 
are  exposed  to  severe  winter  conditions  are  in  reality  killed  during  the 
months  of  January  and  February;  but  the  damage  done  does  not  be- 
come evident  until  time  for  spring  growth  to  begin  during  the  months 
of  April  and  early  May.  If  the  evergreens  which  have  been  killed 
during  the  winter  months  in  the  nursery  are  dug  and  shipped  to  owners 
of  estates  at  a  time  prior  to  spring  growth  and  prior  to  a  time  when  it  is 
possible  for  a  nurseryman  to  determine  whether  or  not  the  plant  is  in  a 
normal  growing  condition,  plants  killed  in  this  manner  (because  of  the 
lack  of  winter  protection)  do  not  show  the  injury  until  the  growing 
season,  at  which  time,  with  the  beginning  of  warm  growing  weather,  the 


102  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

leaves  turn  brown.  Conditions  of  this  kind  often  follow  a  severe 
winter.  During  a  severe  winter  in  which  successive  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing conditions  are  a  common  occurrence  evergreens  are  apt  to  be 
seriously  damaged.  Under  such  conditions  it  is  the  heat  which  causes 
the  worst  injury  to  the  evergreens  during  these  winter  months  and,  as 
commonly  believed,  this  is  not  injury  due  to  excessive  cold.  A  suc- 
cession of  extremely  cold  nights  and  warm  thawing  conditions  during 
the  day  causes  excessive  evaporation  from  the  leaves  which,  as  hereto- 
fore mentioned,  cannot  be  replaced  through  the  dormant  root  system, 
the  soil  surrounding  which  has  not  been  sufficiently  warmed  to  excite 
growth.  This  evaporation  may  be  stopped  by  shelter  fences  or  by 
wrapping  the  plants  with  straw  "overcoats."  Care  should  be  taken, 
however,  to  avoid  wrapping  too  tightly,  or  injury  to  the  plant  will 
result  from  heating  of  foliage.  Boxwood  hedges  also,  particularly 
when  young,  should  be  covered  to  prevent  winter  injury  in  sections 
of  the  country  where  the  temperature  may  fall  as  low  as  zero  during 
the  winter  months.  Such  hedges  may  be  boxed,  or  they  may  be 
banked  with  cornstalks  or  coarse  litter  and  also  with  evergreen  boughs. 
One  of  the  best  protections  for  boxwood  hedges  (as  well  as  broad-leaved 
evergreens)  is  to  be  certain  that  they  have  a  thorough  soaking,  especially 
during  a  dry  fall,  immediately  before  the  freezing  weather  begins. 

Mice  often  injure  plants,  and  where  this  occurs  mulching  should 
be  delayed  until  cooler  weather,  when  the  rodents  will  have  nested 
elsewhere.  Poisoning  may  be  resorted  to  by  placing  poisoned  wheat 
in  drain  tiles  among  the  mulch.  Mice  and  rabbits  will  gnaw  certain 
shrubs  and  fruit  trees,  such  as  quinces,  spireas,  forsythias,  etc.  Such 
plants  should  be  protected,  especially  the  first  year,  by  tar  paper  or 
burlap  if  mice  are  present.  Wrapping  should  begin  slightly  below 
the  surface  of  the  ground  at  the  base  of  the  tree,  and  extend  to  a 
height  of  two  feet.  The  author  is  advised  on  good  authority  that 
where  there  is  excessive  danger  that  the  base  of  certain  shrubs  and 
fruit  trees  will  be  gnawed  by  mice  and  rabbits,  an  excellent  method  of 
protection  is  that  of  mulching  these  hedges  with  coal  ashes  to  a  depth 
of  three  to  four  inches  around  the  immediate  base  of  the  plant.  The 
gritty  condition  of  this  material  is  evidently  objectionable  to  rabbits 
and  mice  and  its  use  has  saved  a  number  of  valuable  hedge  plants. 

PERENNIALS — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  Perennials  should  have  a 
good  mulch  of  well-rotted  manure,  straw,  leaves,  etc.,  applied  just  be- 


WINTER  PROTECTION  AND  MULCHING  103 

fore  freezing  weather,  in  a  late  fall,  and  at  the  beginning  of  freezing 
weather  in  an  early  fall.  In  reality,  it  is  not  as  essential,  as  we  often 
assume  it  to  be,  that  perennial  borders,  regardless  of  the  material  they 
contain  or  the  type  ot  soil  in  which  the  perennials  are  planted,  should 
be  mulched  during  the  winter  months.  There  are  hundreds  of  gardens 
which  pass  through  the  winter  without  any  protection  whatsoever 
being  given  to  the  plants.  These  gardens  are  not,  however,  those 
which  are  developed  on  clay  loam  soil.  The  general  feeling  is  that 
plants  are  mulched  and  given  this  winter  protection  because  otherwise 
they  would  not  be  hardy.  Quite  to  the  contrary,  most  of  these  per- 
ennials are  hardy,  and  as  a  matter  of  fact  it  is  rarely  possible  that 
any  amount  of  mulching  such  as  is  ordinarily  provided  for  the  garden 
can  make  any  perennial  hardy  which  is  not  by  nature  perfectly  hardy 
in  the  climatic  and  exposed  condition  where  it  is  growing.  Every 
person  who  is  responsible  for  the  mulching  of  a  perennial  garden 
should  use  only  a  loose  texture  of  material  for  mulching  purposes. 
When  mulching  perennials  place  stakes  beside  small  plants  and  those 
which  begin  growth  late  in  the  spring.  This  will  prevent  any  loss 
when  the  mulch  is  spaded  in  or  removed  in  the  spring.  Perennials 
with  persistent  leaves  should  not  be  mulched  with  anything  which  will 
mat  down.  This  applies  to  foxgloves,  hollyhocks,  sweet  williams,  and 
violas.  Cornstalks  and  leaves  which  drop  late  are  best  for  such  a 
mulch.  Boxes  filled  with  leaves  may  be  inverted  over  plants;  but  when 
this  is  done  the  top  should  be  watertight  or  damage  may  follow.  Some 
tender  plants  such  as  pansies  and  snapdragons  may  be  carried  over  the 
winter  if  a  heavy  mulch  is  applied  before  freezing  weather  appears. 

BULBS  AND  LILIES — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  Eremurus  and  the 
tenderest  lilies  should  be  protected  by  a  mound  of  ashes  which  will 
help  shed  water  and  retain  an  even  temperature.  All  bulbs  should  be 
mulched  with  leaves,  manure,  or  litter.  If  bulbs  are  planted  in  the 
heavier  types  of  soil  it  is  quite  necessary  to  cover  the  crown  with  a 
good  mulch  which  will  maintain  in  the  ground  a  more  even  temperature 
and  will  lessen  the  possibility  of  injury  to  the  bulbs  because  of  sudden 
fluctuations  of  temperature  (freezing  and  thawing  conditions),  which 
cause  heaving  of  the  soil.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  bulbs 
start  growth  very  early  in  the  spring.  If  the  mulch  is  left  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  until  after  the  bulbs  have  started  growth,  especially 
in  a  sunny  exposure,  then  the  bulbs  become  spindly  and  strong  plants 


104  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

and  flowers  do  not  develop.  In  the  planting  of  crocuses  late  in  the 
fall  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  ground  immediately  with  some  fresfr 
straw  manure  which  will  keep  the  temperature  of  the  ground  from  be- 
coming too  cold  until  after  the  bulbs  have  developed  slight  root  growth. 

VINES — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  Vines  and  various  climbers,  such 
as  climbing  roses  or  trained  fruit  trees,  when  growing  against  a  southern 
or  western  wall,  should  be  protected  by  burlap  from  the  winter  and 
early  spring  sun,  which  may  cause  growth  to  start  too  soon.  Very 
tender  vines,  such  as  jasmine  and  some  clematises  and  roses,  can  best 
be  taken  down  and  buried,  especially  where  local  climatic  conditions 
or  exposures  are  severe.  When  plants  are  so  treated  they  should 
be  allowed  to  lie  on  the  ground  for  ten  days  or  two  weeks  after  they 
have  been  uncovered  in  the  spring.  This  allows  the  canes  time  to 
harden-off. 

ROSES — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  Hybrid  Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpet- 
uals  in  most  winters  can  be  safely  carried  over  by  hilling  up  the  soil 
about  the  plants  to  a  height  of  six  or  eight  inches,  thus  covering  the 
lowest  six  buds,  and  then  covering  the  plants  with  hardwood  leaves 
eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  deep.  The  leaves  should  be  held  in 
place  with  cornstalks  or  brush  to  prevent  their  being  blown  away.  A 
three  or  four  inch  blanket  of  stable  manure  may  be  applied  before  the 
leaves  are  used  and  a  windbreak  of  boughs  of  pine  or  fir  trees,  or 
cornstalks  may  be  substituted  for  the  leaves  if  manure  is  used.  Cul- 
tivation should  be  stopped  in  September  to  discourage  late  growth,  but 
the  plants  should  be  thoroughly  soaked  with  water  in  October,  just  be- 
fore hilling  them  up.  This  protection  should  be  removed  piecemeal  in 
the  spring,  to  gradually  harden-off  the  plants. 

Standard  roses  may  be  protected  by  laying  them  on  the  ground  and 
treating  them  as  tender  vines.  This  is  the  most  satisfactory  method. 
They  may  also  be  wrapped  with  straw  and  burlap,  or  boxed,  with  a 
filling  of  leaves  within  the  box.  The  safest  method  in  severe  exposures 
is  that  of  burying  them. 

RHODODENDRONS — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  Rhododendrons,  other 
broad-leaved  evergreens  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  all  other  ever- 
greens, are  apt  to  be  scalded  in  winter  by  the  morning  sun  shining 
through  the  coating  of  ice  or  snow  upon  the  leaves,  unless  they  are 


WINTER  PROTECTION  AND  MULCHING  105 

shielded.  They  should  be  mulched  also  during  both  winter  and 
summer.  The  mulching  of  rhododendrons  for  summer  is  done  for  the 
purpose  of  providing  a  thin  layer  of  leaf  mold  which  will  produce  as 
nearly  as  possible  the  natural  conditions  of  the  undisturbed  soil  in  the 
woods  and  fields  where  rhododendrons  grow.  Mulching  for  winter 
protection  is  effected  by  banking  the  plants  with  a  deep  layer  of  leaves. 
These  leaves  prevent  excessive  freezing  and  possible  heaving  of 
the  soil  around  the  roots.  Rhododendrons  are  further  protected 
by  building  a  screen  of  evergreen  boughs  or  of  cornstalks  entirely 
around  the  plantation,  but  especially  on  the  exposed  side.  A  portion 
of  the  leaves  used  in  the  winter  mulch  can  be  left  when  the  mulch  is 
removed  in  the  spring.  Under  no  conditions  should  an  attempt  be 
made  to  spade  this  mulch  of  leaves  into  the  ground  in  the  spring. 
It  may  be  loosened  slightly  with  a  fork,  but  because  this  plant  has  its 
roots  so  near  the  surface  the  ground  around  the  roots,  below  the  natural 
surface,  should  not  be  disturbed. 

TREES  AND  SHRUBS — WINTER  PROTECTION  OF.  When  mulching 
trees  care  should  be  taken  to  extend  the  mulch  out  as  far  as  the  roots 
extend,  or  at  least  as  far  as  the  ends  of  the  branches  extend.  Most 
of  the  Japanese  flowering  peaches,  cherries,  etc.,  need  a  four-inch  root 
mulch  every  winter  in  severe  climates.  Boxbushes,  many  other  ever- 
greens, and  some  deciduous  material  should  be  tied  in  winter.  This 
is  done  to  keep  the  plant  from  splitting  under  the  weight  of  the  heavy 
snows.  Bands  of  rye  straw  or  burlap  are  better  than  string  for  tying. 
Shrubs  and  trees  when  planted  in  groups  or  plantations,  being  thus 
close  together,  will  protect  each  other  to  a  considerable  extent. 

When  plants  are  of  doubtful  hardiness,  screens  may  be  erected  for 
protection  on  the  most  exposed  sides,  or  completely  surrounding  the 
plants.  Such  screens  may  be  made  of  poles  to  which  is  attached  brush 
or  burlap.  Another  method  is  to  make  a  screen  of  boards.  Screens 
are  frequently  used  to  protect  evergreens,  trees,  and  shrubs.  A  shed 
without  sides  also  may  be  constructed  over  such  plantings.  This  is 
done  to  avoid  loss  by  drip  from  buildings,  or  breakage  from  the  weight 
of  snow.  Shrubs  may  be  wrapped  with  straw  or  burlap,  the  covering 
being  bound  with  raffia  or  twine.  A  pole  is  usually  placed  inside  the 
wrapping  to  prevent  the  plant  from  bending  or  breaking.  It  is  pref- 
erable, however,  to  plant  more  hardy  types  of  material,  because  screens 
are  extremely  unsightly  unless  the  plants  are  in  an  obscure  location. 


106  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

LAWNS — MULCHING  OF.  After  the  first  year  it  is  generally  not 
necessary  to  protect  lawns  in  winter.  If  a  mulch  is  desired  use  straw 
or  well-rotted  manure  old  enough  so  that  there  is  no  danger  from  weed 
seeds.  In  the  spring  the  coarse  manure  should  be  removed  and  the 
finer  portions  pressed  in  with  a  heavy  roller.  Heavy,  coarse  manure  is 
apt  to  suffocate  the  growing  grass  and  leave  bare  spots  on  the  lawn. 

GENERAL  CONDITIONS.  Fall-planted  material,  especially  perennials, 
and  in  the  heavier  soils,  should  be  well  protected  during  the  first 
winter  with  a  mulch  of  strawy  manure  or  hardwood  leaves.  Compact 
or  fresh  manures  should  be  avoided.  Fresh  manures,  free  from 
straw,  will  burn  the  plants,  and  compact  manures  will  cause  decay 
and  fermentation,  due  to  lack  of  aeration.  A  good  strawy  manure 
should  be  used.  In  the  spring  the  litter  may  be  removed,  and  the 
finer  portions  of  the  mulch  spaded  into  the  beds.  When  leaves  are 
used,  provision  must  be  made  to  prevent  them  from  blowing  away. 
Boards,  branches,  or  wire  netting  can  be  used  for  this  purpose.  Mulch- 
ing, applied  very  early,  may  be  harmful  by  reason  of  encouraging  late 
root  action  and  top  growth.  Therefore,  it  is  always  advisable  to 
delay  root  mulching  until,  after  several  light  freezes,  a  crust  has  formed 
on  the  ground.  Evergreen  boughs,  when  procurable,  make  an  ex- 
cellent protective  covering.  After  a  dry  fall  most  plants,  except  some 
perennials,  are  benefited  by  being  thoroughly  soaked  with  water  before 
freezing  weather  occurs.  This  is  especially  true  of  conifers  and  broad- 
leaved  evergreens.  Cultivation  in  shrub  and  perennial  beds  can  be 
stopped  as  soon  as  danger  from  weeds  maturing  their  seeds  is  over. 
This  will  furnish  some  protection  and  will  also  discourage  late  growth 
of  plants. 


PART  II 
LISTS  FOR  REFERENCE 


CHAPTER  IX 
EVERGREENS 

THE  variation  in  adaptation  of  evergreens  has  come  to  be  a  much- 
debated  question  among  horticulturists  and  landscape  architects 
who  are  called  upon  to  use  them.  An  interesting  fact  is  discovered 
after  some  study  of  evergreens.  The  hardy  types  are  not  perfectly 
hardy  under  the  varying  conditions  of  climate  and  exposure  in  various 
sections  of  the  country.  Therefore,  evergreens  should  be  selected  for 
landscape  plantings  with  a  considerable  knowledge  of  their  ability  to 
withstand  local  conditions. 

The  factors  which  are  evidently  most  injurious  to  the  normal 
development  of  evergreens  as  a  group  are:  (i)  sudden  variations  in 
climatic  conditions;  (2)  condition  of  the  soil;  (3)  exposure;  and  (4) 
atmospheric  conditions  in  the  vicinity  of  congested  city  districts.  A 
short  discussion  of  these  factors,  as  bearing  upon  the  growth  of  ever- 
greens, may  be  of  value. 

i.  CLIMATIC  CONDITIONS.  It  is  a  safe  assumption  that  evergreens 
which  are  indigenous  to  sections  of  country  where  the  climatic  condi- 
tions are  severe  will  withstand  similar  conditions  in  any  other  section 
of  the  country  unless  the  other  factors,  of  soil,  exposure,  and  atmo- 
spheric conditions  are  extremely  adverse.  An  interesting  fact  is  seen 
in  the  repeated  endeavour  to  acclimate  evergreens,  which  otherwise  are 
hardy,  to  the  sudden  changes  of  temperature  experienced  along  the 
shores  of  the  Great  Lakes.  Evergreens  which  are  perfectly  hardy  in 
the  severe  climate  of  New  York  State  and  New  England,  and  even 
in  Michigan,  will  not  prove  hardy  when  used  close  to  the  shores  of  the 
Great  Lakes. 

While  no  one  has  given  a  definite  reason  for  this,  it  is  presumed 
that  the  sudden  changes  of  climatic  condition  are  responsible  for 
the  failure  of  many  plants.  In  general,  in  the  selection  of  ever- 
greens, the  more  tender  varieties  should  not  be  far  removed  from 
climatic  conditions  in  which  they  are  known  to  be  perfectly  hardy, 

109 


i  io  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

unless  the  person  using  such  plants  expects  the  inevitable  loss  which 
will  be  experienced  during  a  very  severe  winter. 

2.  CONDITION    OF   THE    SOIL.    The   question   of  soil   conditions 
with  reference  to  the  planting  of  evergreens  is  more  important  in  the 
clayey  sections  of  the  Middle  West  than  in  most  of  the  other  sections 
of  the  country.     In  the  northern  portions  of  the  Middle  West  this  is 
not  so  evident,  because  the  summer  months  are  not  as  hot  and  dry  as 
they  are  farther  south.     Even  the  more  hardy  evergreens  will  not 
withstand  the  stiff  clay  conditions  of  the  Middle  West  during  the  hot 
summer  months,  at  which  times  this  clay  bakes  very  hard.     Ever- 
greens, to  be  grown  most  successfully,  should  be  planted  in  a  loose, 
sandy-loam  or  clay-loam  soil,  and  should  not  be  planted  directly  in  a 
soil  the  predominating  portion  of  which  is  clay.     Therefore  the  soil 
conditions  should  be  examined  closely  before  it  is  definitely  decided  to 
use  evergreens,  and  the  list  of  evergreens  shown  under  IX-B  are  those 
which  are  most  hardy  and  best  adapted  to  the  climatic  conditions  and 
soil  conditions  of  the  Middle  West,  as  proven  by  years  of  experience 
and  careful  observation. 

3.  EXPOSURE.     If  the   more  tender  types   of  evergreens  which 
do  not  normally  grow  under  the  most   severe   climatic  conditions 
are  selected  for  use  in  a  section  where  the  climatic  conditions  are 
severe,  then  such  plants  should  be  so  located  that  the  exposure  from  the 
prevailing  winds  of  winter  is  greatly  reduced.     It  is  possible  to  use  most 
of  the  evergreens  shown  in  Group  IX-A  in  any  section  of  the  country, 
provided  a  proper  exposure  is  selected  and  the  proper  winter  protection 
is  given.     Many  times  this  is  impracticable,  because  evergreens  are 
selected  to  be  of  equal  value  during  the  winter  months  and  during  the 
summer  months.     There  is  no  windbreak  or  screen  as  yet  developed 
for   the   protection  of  evergreens   against   exposure   which   in   itself 
does  not  detract  to  a  great  extent  from  the  beauty  of  these  plantations 
during  a  period  of  the  year  when  their  foliage  should  be  most  effective. 

4.  ATMOSPHERIC  CONDITIONS.     Many  evergreens  are  used  in  the 
vicinity  of  our  congested  city  districts,  or  in  locations  where  the 
prevailing  winds  surround  them  with  an  atmosphere  polluted  with 
dust,  smoke,  and  gases,  all  of  which  are  very  injurious  to  most  ever- 
greens.    Only  the  most  hardy  evergreens  should  be  used  under  such 
conditions,  and  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  normal  growing  condition 


PLATE  XVIII.  Upon  a  spacious  lawn  effective  use  can  occasionally  be 
made  of  trees  and  shrubs  possessing  symmetrical  habits  of  growth  and  fine 
flowering  and  fruiting  qualities.  The  deutzia  is  a  shrub  with  these  capabil- 
ities; but  it  is  seldom  seen  as  a  specimen  plant.  Restraint,  however,  must 
be  observed  and  a  dotted  effect  avoided.  (See  chapter  XIV) 


EVERGREENS 


in 


it  is  essential  during  the  cooler  hours  of  the  day,  and  at  frequent  in« 
tervals,  to  spray  these  plants  to  wash  off  much  of  the  soot  which  col- 
lects from  the  atmosphere.  While  the  leaves  of  evergreens  are 
heavily  covered  with  a  layer  of  cuticle,  the  breathing  pores  are  very 
susceptible  to  clogging  from  the  dust  of  a  polluted  city  atmosphere. 

So  much  for  the  discussion  of  the  adaptation  of  evergreens  to  these 
conditions.  A  list  of  evergreens  is  shown  in  Group  IX-C,  found  through 
experience  to  be  not  generally  recommended  for  use  in  the  Middle  West. 

Another  condition  often  arises  in  the  use  of  evergreens.  Material 
is  desired  for  undergrowth  planting  in  shady  wooded  areas.  There 
are  very  few  kinds  of  evergreens  which  will  produce  anything  like  their 
normal  density  of  foliage  where  they  are  deprived  of  a  great  portion 
of  sunlight.  This  group  of  material  is  shown  in  Group  IX-D. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  use  groups  of  low-growing  and  refined  types 
of  evergreens  to  provide  mass  effects  on  private  lawns  and  about 
residences,  to  be  of  value  during  the  winter  and  summer  months. 
A  list  of  evergreens  available  and  adapted  to  this  use  has  been  generally 
outlined.  They  must  be  of  the  more  slow-growing  types  if  over- 
crowding within  the  first  two  or  three  years  after  transplanting  is  to 
be  avoided. 

LIST  OF  EVERGREENS 

A.  MOST  HARDY.  This  group  contains  types  of  evergreens 
selected  for  general  use  under  widely  varied  conditions  throughout 
the  northeastern  section  of  the  United  States. 


Abies  brachyphylla 

Nikko  Fir 
Abies  concolor 

White  Fir 
Abies  veitchi 

Veitch's  Silver  Fir 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa 

Japanese  Cypress 
Juniperus  chinensis  pfitzeriana 

Pfitzer's  Juniper 
Juniperus  communis 
Common  Juniper 
Juniperus  communis  aurea 

Golden  Juniper 
Juniperus  excelsa  stricta 
Slender  Greek  Juniper 
Juniperus  horizpntalis 
Trailing  Juniper 


Juniperus  horizontalis  douglasi 

Waukegan  Juniper 
Juniperus  sabina 

Savin  Juniper 
Juniperus  scopulorum 

Rocky  Mountain  Silver  Cedar 
Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Juniperus  virginiana  cannarti 

Columnar  Tufted  Cedar 
Juniperus  virginiana  schotti 

Schott's  Red  Cedar 
Picea  alba 

White  Spruce 
Picea  alcockiana 

Alcock's  Spruce 
Picea  engelmanni 

Engelmann's  Spruce 


112 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Picea  excelsa  (in  variety) 

Norway  Spruce 
Picea  omorika 

Servian  Spruce 
Picea  pungens 

Colorado  Spruce 
Pinus  cembra 

Swiss  Stone  Pine 
Pinus  densiflora  umbraculifera 

Dwarf  Japanese  Red  Pine 
Pinus  montana  mughus 

Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 
Pinus  nigra  austriaca 

Austrian  Pine 
Pinus  resinosa 

Red  Pine 
Pinus  strobus 

White  Pine 
Pinus  sylvestris 

Scotch  Pine 
Pseudotsuga  douglasi  (Colorado  Form) 

Douglas  Fir 
Sciadopitys  verticillata 

Umbrella  Pine 
Taxus  baccata  repandens 

Spreading  English  Yew 


Taxus  canadensis 

Ground  Yew 
Taxus  cuspidata 

Japanese  Yew 
Taxus  cuspidata  brevifolia 

Short-leaved  Japanese  Yew 
Thuja  occidentals  aurea 

George  Peabody's  Golden  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  douglasi 

Douglas'  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  globosa 

Globe  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  (Little  Gem) 

Little  Gem  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  plicata 

Tall  Pointed  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

Pyramidal  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  rosenthali 

Rosenthal's  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  vervaneana, 

Vervaene's  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  wareana 

Siberian  Arborvitae 
Tsuga  canadensis 

Canadian  Hemlock 


Tsuga  caroliniana 
Carolina  Hemlock 

B.  BEST  ADAPTED  FOR  USE  IN  MID-WEST.  This  group  of  ever- 
greens will  withstand  climatic  and  soil  conditions  of  the  mid-west, 
especially  throughout  Ohio,  and  under  average  exposure  these  types 
will  develop  normally  in  the  suburban  and  country  districts. 


Abies  brachyphylla 

Nikko  Fir 
Abies  concolor 

White  Fir 
Abies  veitchi 

Veitch's  Silver  Fir 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa 

Japanese  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  pisifera  fitifera 

Thread-branched  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  pisifera  squarrosa 

Veitch's  Silver  Cypress 
Juniper  us  (in  variety) 

Juniper 
Picea  alba  (north  only) 

White  Spruce 


Picea  alcockiana 

Alcock's  Spruce 
Picea  engelmanni 

Engelmann's  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  (in  variety) 

Norway  Spruce 
Picea  omorika 

Servian  Spruce 
Picea  pungens  glauca 

Koster's  Blue  Spruce 
Pinus  cembra 

Swiss  Stone  Pine 
Pinus  montana  mughus 

Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 
Pinus  nigra  austriaca 

Austrian  Pine 


EVERGREENS  113 

Pinus  resinosa  Taxus  cuspidata  brevifolia 

Red  Pine  Short-leaved  Japanese  Yew 

Pinus  strobus  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata 

White  Pine  Clustered  Japanese  Yew 

Pinus  sylvestris  Thuja  occidentalis  (in  variety) 

Scotch  Pine  American  Arborvitae 

Pseudotsuga  douglasi  Thuja  occidentalis  ware  ana 

Douglas  Fir  Siberian  Arborvitae 

Sciadopitys  verticillata  Thuja  orientalis  (northern  grown) 

Umbrella  Pine  Oriental  Arborvitae 

Taxus  baccata  repandens  Tsuga  canadensis 

Spreading  English  Yew  Canadian  Hemlock 

Tsuga    caroliniana 
Carolina  Hemlock 

C.  NOT  ADAPTED  FOR  USE  IN  MID-WEST.     Evergreens  in  this 
group  should  not  be  used  in  the  amateur  garden  of  this  section.     Ex- 
perience has  shown  that  they  have  proven  "treacherous'*  in  their 
ability  to  thrive  and  also  in  their  habit  of  growth  under  these  peculiar 
climatic  and  soil  conditions,  to  which  they  are  not  adapted. 

Abies  balsamea  Juniperus  excelsa 

Balsam  Fir  Greek  Juniper 

Abies  fraseri  Picea  mariana 

Fraser's  Balsam  Fir  Black  Spruce 

Abies  nordmanniana  Pinus  banksiana 

Nordman's  Fir  Jack  Pine 

Cephalotaxus  (in  variety)  Pinus  jeffreyi 

False  Yew  Jeffrey's  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana  Pinus  palustris 

Lawson's  Cypress  Long-leaved  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  pisifera  Pinus  ponderosa 

Pea-fruited  Cypress  Bull  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  pisifera  plumosa  Thujopsis  dolobrata 

Plume-like  Cypress  Japanese  Arborvitae 

D.  ADAPTED  TO  PARTIAL  SHADE  IN  WOODED  AREAS.    The  group 
of  evergreens  which  will  develop  normal  foliage  and  normal  growth 
under  partial  shade  in  wooded  areas  is  limited.     The  types  in  this 
group  have  proven  the  most  satisfactory. 

Juniperus  virgimana  Pseudotsuga  douglasi. 

Red  Cedar  Douglas  Fir 

Pinus  banksiana  (for  light  soils)  Taxus  canadensis 

Jack  Pine  Ground  Yew 

Pinus  strobus  Thuja  occidentalis 

White  Pine  American  Arborvitae 

Tsuga  canadensis 
Canadian  Hemlock 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

E.  LOW-GROWING,  FORMAL  TYPES.  This  group  contains  types  of 
evergreens  which  are  valuable  for  accent  and  for  specimen  purposes. 
They  should  be  planted  on  the  open  lawn  or  where  there  is  ample 
space  for  them  to  develop  their  natural  habit  of  growth.  Evergreens 
from  this  list,  and  the  low-growing  types  of  a  more  informal  character 
from  Groups  IX-A  and  IX-B  should  be  selected  for  the  refined  mass 
plantings  of  evergreens  as  illustrated  in  Figure  i  Plate  XL 

Pinus  syhestris  pumila  (globose) 

Globe  Scotch  Pine 
Pseudotsuga  douglasi  globosa  (globose) 

Globe  Douglas  Spruce 
Taxus  baccata  repandens  (sub-globose) 

Spreading  English  Yew 
Taxus  cuspidata  densa  (hemispherical) 

Dwarf  Japanese  Yew 
Thuja  occidentalis  compacta  (globose) 

Compact  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  dumosa  (dense  dwarf) 

Dwarf  Arborvitae 

Thuja     occidentalis    ellzv anger iana    (low, 
broad  pyramid) 

Ellwanger  s  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  globosa   (globose  and 
very  dwarf) 

Globe  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  hoveyi  (dense  ovate) 

Hovey's  Arborvitae 

Thuja    occidentalis    (Little    Gem)     (flat 
ovate) 

Little  Gem  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  nana  (compact  globose) 

Dwarf  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  pumila  (dense  dwarf) 

Dwarf  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  reidi  (broad  dwarf)      ; 

Dwarf  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  wagneriana  (globose) 

Dwarf  Arborvitae 

Thuja  occidentalis  woodwardi  (dense  glo- 
bose) 

Woodward's  Dwarf  Arborvitae 
Tsuga  canadensis  globosa  (dense  globose) 

Globe  Hemlock 

Tsuga   canadensis   nana   (depressed   and 
spreading) 

Dwarf  Hemlock 
Tsuga  canadensis  pendula  (sargenti)  (flat 

topped  depressed) 
Sargent's  Weeping  Hemlock 


Abies  concolor  globosa  (spherical) 

Globe  White  Fir 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa  nana  (conical) 

Dwarf  Japanese  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa  nana  aurea  (conical) 

Dwarf  Golden  Japanese  Cypress 
Juniperu  virginiana  globosa  (globose) 

Globe  Red  Cedar 

Picea    excelsa    clanbrasiliana     (compact 
broad  conical) 

Cone-shaped  Norway  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  compacta  (sub-globose) 

Compact  Norway  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  gregoriana  (sub-globose  and 
compact) 

Gregory's  Dwarf  Norway  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  nana  (depressed  sub-globose) 

Dwarf  Norway  Spruce 

Picea    excelsa    pygmaea     (dense,     small 

pyramid) 
Dwarf  Pyramidal  Norway  Spruce 

Picea  excelsa  tabulaeformis  (low  and  flat) 
Tablet-shaped  Norway  Spruce 

Picea  orientalis  nana  (low,  broad  pyramid) 
Dwarf  Oriental  Spruce 

Picea  pungens  compacta  (dwarf  conical) 
Dwarf  Blue  Spruce 

Pinus  cembra  compacta  (dwarf  conical) 
Dwarf  Swiss  Stone  Pine 

Pinus  densiflora  umbraculifera   tanyosha 
(vase  form) 
Dwarf  Japanese  Red  Pine 

Pinus  koraiensis  (dense,  broad  pyramid) 
Corean  Pine 

Pinus  montana  mughus  (globose) 
Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 

Pinus  strobus  umbraculifera  (vase  form) 

Bush  White  Pine 

Pinus    strobus    brevifolia    (compact    and 
round) 

Dwarf  White  Pine 


CHAPTER  X 
STREET  AND  AVENUE  PLANTING 

THIS  is  a  broad  subject  and  yet  it  has  been  well  covered  by  numer- 
ous bulletins  and  books.  There  are  a  few  important  questions,  how- 
ever, which  should  be  decided  very  definitely  in  the  minds  of  those 
who  are  selecting  trees  for  use  as  street  plantings.  There  is  a  group 
of  trees  most  of  the  types  of  which  are  entirely  hardy  under  all  condi- 
tions. There  is  another  group  of  trees  which  should  seldom,  if  ever, 
be  used  on  streets,  and  there  is  a  third  group  of  trees  which  possess 
some  real  value  for  street  planting;  but  they  should  be  selected  only 
with  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  conditions  under  which  they  are 
to  be  placed. 

In  general,  trees  which  are  selected  for  street  planting  should  be 
symmetrical  in  character,  they  should  be  long  lived,  and  they  should 
not  be  readily  susceptible  to  injury  from  insects  and  smoke. 

There  is  a  certain  group  of  trees  specimens  of  which  can  be  safely 
selected  for  street  planting,  either  in  city  or  suburban  districts.  This 
group  comprises  such  trees  as  the  sugar  maple,  red  oak,  European 
linden,  and  American  elm,  the  last  of  which  is  best  adapted  to  planting 
on  narrow  streets  because  of  its  high-headed  characteristic  of  growth. 
Though  it  becomes  very  tall  its  vase-form  enables  it  to  reach  above 
dwellings  that  may  be  not  far  back  from  the  street  and  to  leave  open  a 
vista  down  the  street  axis.  The  low,  compact-headed  types  of  trees, 
such  as  the  sugar  maple,  pin  oak,  and  the  linden  ought  to  be  planted 
only  on  wide  streets.  While  the  use  on  narrow  streets  of  such 
vase-shaped  trees  as  the  elm  allows  for  an  unobstructed  vista,  the  use 
of  such  trees  as  the  pin  oak  and  linden,  unless  the  lower  branches  are 
severely  pruned,  has  a  tendency  to  "choke  up"  and  to  obstruct  the 
vista. 

A  certain  few  trees  should  rarely,  if  ever,  be  used  in  street  tree 
planting.  This  list  comprises  such  trees  as  the  horse  chestnut,  box 
elder,  black  locust,  willows,  birches,  and  poplars.  Birches  and  locusts 
are  too  short  lived.  The  horse-chestnut  and  the  box  elder  are  littering 


ii6  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

in  their  habit.  The  poplars  are  subject  to  disease  as  well  as  being 
short  lived,  and  the  willows  are  not  adapted  to  shade  tree  purposes, 
even  in  their  habit  of  growth.  In  spite  of  the  fact  that  there  are  some 
excellent  trees  as  shown  in  the  first  and  second  lists  in  this  chapter, 
well  adapted  to  street  and  avenue  planting,  and  thoroughly  tested 
through  a  period  of  years,  yet  many  individuals  responsible  for  the 
selection  of  these  permanent  assets  or  detriments  to  the  public  streets 
will  still  select  trees  such  as  those  which  are  included  in  the  third  list  of 
this  chapter. 

Trees  such  as  the  maidenhair  tree,  tree  of  heaven,  oriental  plane, 
and  pin  oak  should  not  be  used  for  street  tree  planting  without  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  conditions  under  which  they  are  to  grow 
and  the  conditions  to  which  they  are  best  adapted.  The  pin  oak 
and  the  maidenhair  tree  are  tall,  pyramidal  trees,  which  should  be 
used  only  on  wide  streets  in  a  heavy  soil,  and  the  maidenhair  tree 
should  never  be  used  for  street  and  avenue  planting  except  in  the  less 
severe  climatic  conditions.  The  tree  of  heaven  has  a  vigorous  habit 
of  growth  and  is  an  excellent  tree  in  the  smoky,  congested  sections  of 
our  cities  where  shade  trees  are  required.  Before  trees  in  this  group 
are  used  some  of  the  important  bulletins  and  books  on  our  city  street 
trees  should  be  consulted  for  further  information.  (See  Bibliography.) 

Where  an  avenue  is  of  such  length  that  it  passes  through  two  or  more 
radically  different  soil  types  care  must  be  exercised  or  the  trees  on  one 
soil  will  not  grow  as  fast  or  luxuriantly  as  upon  another  soil.  This  will 
result  in  an  avenue  of  uneven  height  and  spread  in  the  tops  of  the  trees 
and  thus  spoil  an  otherwise  successful  planting. 

LIST  OF  TREES  FOR  STREET  AND  AVENUE  PLANTING 

A.  TREES  WHICH  ARE  ENTIRELY  HARDY  UNDER  ALL  CONDITIONS. 
This  group  contains  the  standard  types  of  shade  trees  which  can  be 
planted  under  almost  any  condition  of  climate  or  soil,  with  some  degree 
of  assurance  that  they  will  develop  an  interesting  normal  habit  of 
growth.  This  list  may  be  termed  "the  ten  best  trees  for  general 
use  in  street  and  avenue  planting,"  in  city,  suburban,  and  urban 
districts. 

Acer  saccharum  Quercus  coccinea 
Sugar  Maple  Scarlet  Oak 

Quercus  alba  Quercus  rubra 
White  Oak  Red  Oak 


STREET  AND  AVENUE  PLANTING 


Quercus  velutina 

Black  Oak 
Tilia  euchlora 

Crimean  Linden 
Tilia  tomentosa 

Silver  Linden 


Tilia  vulgaris 

Common  Linden 
Ulmus  americana 

American  Elm 
Ulmus  glabra 

Scotch  Elm 


B.  TREES  WHICH  SHOULD  BE  SELECTED  WITH  A  THOROUGH 
KNOWLEDGE  OF  THE  CONDITIONS  UNDER  WHICH  THEY  ARE  TO  BE 
USED.  Before  trees  in  this  group  are  used,  descriptive  information 
of  these  types  should  be  consulted  in  order  to  know  that  the  soil 
conditions,  exposure,  climate,  and  width  of  streets  are  such  that  these 
trees  will  meet  the  requirements  and  develop  a  normal  growth. 


Acer  platanoides 
Norway  Maple 

Ailanthus  glandulosa 
Tree  of  Heaven 

Celtis  occidentalis 
Nettle  Tree 

Fraxinus  (in  variety) 

Ash  Tree 
Ginkgo  biloba 

Maidenhair  Tree 


Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Sweet  Gum 

Liriodendron  tulipifera 
Tulip  Tree 

Platanus  orientalis 
Oriental  Plane 

Phellodendron  amurense 
Chinese  Cork  Tree 

Quercus  palustris 
Pin  Oak 


Ulmus  campestris 
English  Elm 


C.  TREES  WHICH  SHOULD  SELDOM  BE  USED  ON  STREETS.  Many 
trees  are  selected  for  street  planting,  either  because  they  are  the  easiest 
trees  to  grow  or  the  tree  which  can  be  obtained  with  the  least  difficulty 
and  expense.  Such  trees  are  a  future  liability  to  the  community  and 
they  should  never  be  planted  except  for  some  important  reason,  such 
as  the  impossibility  of  obtaining  other  types.  They  are  adapted  to 
specimen  use  rather  than  to  street  use. 


Acer  saccharinum 

Soft  Maple 
Acer  negundo 

Box  Elder 
Aesculus  hippocastanum 

Common  Horse-chestnut 
Betula  (in  variety) 

Birch 
Catalpa  (in  variety) 

Indian  Bean 


Gleditsia  triacanthos 

Honey  Locust 
Platanus  occidentalis 

American  Plane 
Populus  eugenei 

Carolina  Poplar 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 
Salix  (in  variety) 

Willow 


Sorbus  aucuparia 
European  Mountain  Ash 


CHAPTER  XI 
PLANTS  FOR  USE  IN  CONGESTED  CITY  DISTRICTS 

THE  effect  of  dust,  smoke,  and  gas  fumes  upon  vegetation  is  well 
known  and  yet  no  considerable  amount  of  study  has  been  given 
to  this  subject,  largely  because  it  has  not  been  considered  an  eco- 
nomic question.  Surely  the  people  who  are  compelled  to  live  in  the 
congested  districts  of  our  large  cities  are  as  much  entitled  to  shade  and 
greenery  as  any  one  else,  and  there  is  no  question  but  that  the  health- 
fulness  of  the  congested  districts  is  lowered  by  the  absence  of  shade  and 
grass.  By  the  use  of  those  plants  which  can  survive  drought,  smoke, 
and  abuse,  some  sort  of  trees  or  shrubbery  may  be  had  almost  any- 
where, except  perhaps  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  a  steel  mill  or 
similar  factories,  where  not  even  grass  will  survive.  The  first  trees 
one  comes  to  on  the  edge  of  the  treeless  districts  which  surround  large 
steel  mills  are  usually  ailanthus  or  willow.  The  ailanthus  is  also  the 
tree  which  most  often  appears  in  the  closely  built  up  sections  of  large 
cities,  often  providing  the  only  greenery  to  be  seen  in  whole  sections  of 
a  town.  Ashes,  locusts,  European  planes,  European  lindens,  and  horse- 
chestnuts  also  seem  to  have  the  ability  to  withstand  the  summer 
droughts  and  the  suffocating  soot  that  proves  disastrous  to  so  many 
city  trees.  No  rough-leaved  tree  nor  one  which  requires  much  water 
should  be  used  as  a  street  tree  in  a  congested,  sooty  district,  because 
it  is  doomed  beforehand  to  a  lingering  death,  if  it  survives  at  all. 
Pin  oaks  and  willows  are  useful  only  when  they  are  assured  of  a 
reasonable  supply  of  water  during  summer  droughts. 

Among  the  shrubs  such  smooth-leaved,  hardy  sorts  as  the  lilacs, 
privets,  golden  bells,  buckthorns,  and  barberries  seem  to  withstand  the 
drawbacks  of  smoke,  soot,  and  drought  the  best. 

Most  of  the  coniferous  evergreens  have  a  hard  time  even  existing 
in  any  closely  built  up  town.  The  Colorado  blue  spruce,  silver  fir, 
Scotch  pine,  and  dwarf  mountain  pine  have  withstood  the  soot  and  gas 
better  than  any  others,  and  some  recent  experiments  with  the  Carolina 
hemlock  seem  to  show  that  it,  too,  will  survive  in  the  heart  of  a  city, 

1X8 


PLANTS  FOR  CONGESTED  CITY  DISTRICTS        119 

providing  it  receives  a  certain  amount  of  care.  The  common  arborvitae 
has  generally  proved  a  failure.  The  exact  reason  why  conifers  are  so 
unsuccessful  has  not  so  far  appeared.  Their  short  life  seems  to  be  due 
to  the  accumulation  of  soot  which  clogs  the  pores  of  the  leaves  and 
slowly  suffocates  them.  They  transpire  so  much  water  also  during 
the  hot  summer  droughts  that  they  need  an  excessive  amount  of 
moisture,  and  they  need  numerous  showers  or  washings  from  the 
hose  also  to  keep  them  clean  and  cool.  As  most  evergreens  grow- 
ing under  city  conditions  do  not  get  any  care  they  rarely  succeed,  and 
when  they  do  live,  they  lose  their  colour  and  are  therefore  not  recom- 
mended. 

As  a  rule,  native  collected  plants  seldom  or  never  succeed  when 
taken  directly  into  the  congested  city  districts,  and  only  those  plants 
among  the  deciduous  shrubs  and  trees  which  are  smooth-leaved  are 
to  be  recommended  for  trial. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  USE  IN  CONGESTED  CITY  DISTRICTS 

A.  TREES.  This  group  contains  trees  which  may  be  used  with  a 
great  deal  of  certainty  that  they  will  thrive  under  city  conditions  of 
congestion  and  dusty  atmosphere.  Wherever  possible,  these  trees, 
especially  evergreens,  should  be  thoroughly  sprayed  at  frequent 
intervals  to  wash  a  considerable  portion  of  the  dust  from  the  surface 
of  the  leaves. 


Abies  concolor 

White  Fir 
Aesculus  hippocastanum 

Common  Horse-chestnut 
Ailanthus  glandulosa 

Tree  of  Heaven 
Celtis  occidentalis  (North  only) 

Nettle  Tree 
Cercis  canadensis 

Red-bud 
Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Thorn 
Fraxinus  (in  variety) 

Ash  Tree 
Ginkgo  biloba 

Maidenhair  Tree 
Juniper  us  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Picea  pungens 

Colorado  Spruce 


Pinus  montana  mughus 

Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 
Pinus  sylvestris 

Scotch  Pine 
Platanus  orientalis 

Oriental  Plane 
Quercus  palustris 

Pin  Oak 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 
Salix  (in  variety) 

Willow 
Sophora  japonica 

Japanese  Pagoda  Tree 
Tilia  europaea 

European  Linden 
Tilia  tomentosa 

Silver  Linden 
Ulmus  campesiris 

English  Elm 


120  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

B.  SHRUBS.  In  every  city  district  the  occupants  of  some  homes 
desire  shrubs  in  connection  with  their  yards,  which  give  a  touch  of 
nature  to  their  places.  The  shrubs  in  this  group  have  proven  the 
most  hardy  under  adverse  city  conditions  and  should  be  used  as  a 
basis  for  selecting  types. 

Aralia  spinosa  Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Hercules'  Club  Privet 

Berberis  thunbergi  Physocarpus  opulifolius 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Ninebark 

Cornus  (in  variety)  Rhamnus  (in  variety) 

Dogwood  Buckthorn 

Evonymus  americanus  Spiraea  (in  variety) 

Strawberry  Bush  Spirea 

Forsythia  (in  variety)  Symphoricarpos  (in  variety) 

Golden  Bell  Snowberry 

Hibiscus  syriacus  Syringa  vulgaris 

Rose  of  Sharon  Common  Lilac 
Viburnum,  (in  variety) 
Viburnum 


THE  selection  of  plants  for  hedges  forms  one  of  the  most  interesting 
subjects  in  the  study  of  use  of  plants.  More  often  than  for  any  other 
purpose  trees  and  shrubs  for  hedges  are  selected  either  from  an  eco- 
nomic or  an  aesthetic  point  of  view.  It  may  be  desired  to  have  a 
hedge  for  its  beauty,  or  it  may  be  desired  for  the  purpose  of  a  screen,  a 
windbreak,  or  as  a  definite  barrier. 

Many  times  it  is  desirable  in  the  development  of  hedge  plantations, 
especially  those  which  are  more  than  the  average  height  (three  to  four 
feet),  to  develop  a  hedge  which  will  retain  its  foliage  during  the  winter 
months.  This  may  be  desirable  for  two  reasons:  first,  to  provide  a 
barrier  and  at  the  same  time  a  screen  against  objectionable  views  and  to 
secure  privacy,  and,  second,  to  lend  interest  to  a  winter  landscape 
because  of  the  foliage  effect.  The  only  effective  hedge  barrier  which 
holds  its  leaves  during  the  winter  is  one  composed  of  conifers.  Broad- 
leaved  evergreens  are  not  desirable  for  this  purpose;  mainly  because 
they  are  not  sufficiently  compact  in  their  habit  of  growth  to  meet  the 
requirements  of  a  hedge,  and  they  do  not  lend  themselves  to  shearing. 
The  evergreen  hedge  which  is  planted  for  the  purpose  of  providing  a 
complete  screen,  and  requires  a  normal  growth  of  the  foliage,  should 
seldom  be  planted  in  the  heavy  shade  of  large  overhanging  trees. 
Hedge  plants  which  are  selected  as  barriers  or  screens  should  be  close 
growing  and  compact  in  habit.  Many  among  them  are  thorny  in  char- 
acter, thus  making  passage  through  them  very  difficult. 

Hedges  which  are  planted  for  barriers  and  which  do  not  hold  their 
leaves  during  the  winter  are  usually  valuable  mostly  for  their  summer 
effect.  They  are  seldom  planted  for  the  purpose  of  a  screen,  for  such  a 
screen  is  desirable  during  the  months  of  the  year  when  the  foliage  is  not 
present. 

Many  flower  gardens,  especially  large  rose  gardens,  have  been  much 
enhanced  from  a  landscape  viewpoint  by  the  presence  of  low-growing, 
compact  hedges  which  accurately  define  the  outline  of  the  various  beds 

121 


122  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

and  emphasize  the  main  axial  lines  of  the  garden.  There  is  a  group  of 
plants  from  which  kinds  are  selected  for  hedge  purposes,  and  which 
lend  themselves  to  frequent  clipping  and  shearing.  These  are  most 
often  used  for  edgings  beside  formal  garden  walks,  pools,  and  beds  of 
planting.  The  ideal  hedge  for  this  purpose  is  one  which  requires  a  very 
small  amount  of  pruning  in  order  to  maintain  its  close,  compact  habit. 
It  is  therefore  necessary  to  select  plants  for  this  purpose  with  a  careful 
knowledge  of  the  natural  habits  of  growth  of  the  mature  plants  and  to 
use  such  plants  for  hedge  purposes,  rather  than  to  endeavour  by  severe 
pruning  to  adapt  larger  growing  types  to  such  uses.  Such  hedges  are 
usually  maintained  from  six  to  twelve  inches  in  height  and  should  be 
planted  at  least  twelve  inches  away  from  the  edge  of  any  garden  walk 
in  order  to  provide  ample  width  for  the  hedge  to  spread  as  it  matures. 

Hedges  for  the  purpose  of  windbreaks  and  solid  screens  are  composed 
almost  entirely  of  trees  which  are  more  or  less  compact  in  their  habit  of 
growth  and  will  continue  to  develop  while  planted  in  a  crowded  space. 
Considerable  good  judgment  should  be  used  in  locating  a  windbreak 
which  is  likely  to  act  as  a  snow  trap  also,  because  the  great  drift  of  snow 
which  accumulates  behind  a  large  windbreak  may  prove  a  nuisance  in 
the  early  spring  by  lying  deeply  on  the  ground  long  after  the  land  under 
it  should  be  thawed  out  and  ready  to  use.  This  drift  may  also  break 
down  small  and  brittle  trees  and  shrubs  and  do  more  damage  than  good. 
For  this  reason,  on  the  open  prairies  of  the  Dakotas  it  is  often  found 
necessary  to  locate  windbreaks  as  far  as  one  hundred  feet  to  the  wind- 
ward of  the  buildings  or  road  which  are  to  be  protected,  because  a  strip 
approximately  ten  times  its  height  is  affected  by  a  windbreak.  This  is 
shown  by  the  snow  lying  drifted  for  this  distance  to  the  leeward  after  a 
heavy  snowfall,  accompanied  by  a  driving  wind. 

Some  thirty  years  ago,  L.  H.  Bailey  gave  the  following  rules  for 
planting  windbreaks  (Garden  and  Forest  Vol.  i,  page  46).  While 
primarily  intended  for  orchardists  they  are  well  worth  considering 
to-day  by  anyone  who  is  going  to  do  such  planting  on  a  large  scale  for 
ornamental  purposes. 

(i).  The  windbreak  should  not  obstruct  atmospheric  drainage. 

(2).  The  windbreak  should  never  be  dense  enough  to  force  the  buds  on  fruit  trees 

in  those  localities  which  are  subject  to  late  spring  frosts. 
(3).  As  a  rule,  in  localities  where  atmospheric  drainage  will  not  be  severely  checked, 

the  windbreak  should  have  a  comparatively  dense  bottom,  formed  by 

undergrowth  or  low-branched  trees. 
(4).  Native  trees  and  shrubs  are  preferable  for  windbreaks. 


PLANTS  FOR  HEDGES  123 

To  these  rules  it  might  be  added  that,  while  a  single  row  of  plants  is 
often  desirable,  it  does  not  take  care  of  the  contingency  that  arises 
when  one  or  more  plants  die.  It  is  consequently  preferable  to  plant 
two  or  more  staggered  rows  of  plants  which  thus  do  not  require  to  be 
planted  so  closely  and  for  that  reason  are  more  likely  to  survive  a  long 
while  and  retain  their  lower  branches.  It  is  possible  to  gain  a  good 
ornamental  effect  also  by  combining  evergreen  trees  with  harmonious 
deciduous  ones,  such  as  hemlock  or  spruce  with  birches  and  maples. 
This  type  of  planting  is  often  called  a  "  shelter  belt "  and  when  a  con- 
siderable number  of  evergreen  trees  are  used  a  pleasing  effect  is  secured 
the  year  round,  and  large  numbers  of  birds  will  be  found  to  be  attracted 
and  held,  not  only  through  the  nesting  season  but  sometimes  all  the  year. 

Still  another  use  for  hedges  is  that  of  providing  privacy.  Most  of  the 
shrubs  used  in  this  group  should  be  of  the  tall  types,  exceeding  five 
feet  in  height,  and  should  have  a  compact,  heavy  foliage.  The 
natural  growth  of  the  shrubs  should  be  close  and  they  should  hold  their 
foliage  during  the  late  summer  and  early  fall.  Some  of  the  shrubs 
which  are  best  adapted  for  this  purpose  are  the  rose  of  Sharon,  common 
buckthorn,  and  the  European  beech,  the  foliage  of  which  does  not 
develop  until  the  latter  part  of  the  spring. 

It  is  often  desirable  to  select  plants  which  will  serve  as  hedges  in  the 
bleak  exposures  of  lake  fronts  and  ocean  shores,  and  also  in  the  Cana- 
dian northwest.  These  plants  should  be  hardy  under  all  severe  cli- 
matic conditions  of  the  northeast  and  the  Canadian  northwest.  Most 
of  the  plants  which  have  been  suggested  for  this  group  have  been 
found  growing  normally  under  the  most  severe  conditions  of  climate 
and  exposure. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  HEDGES 

A.  BARRIERS.  This  group  consists  of  types  of  plants  which  are 
compact  in  their  habit  of  growth  and  some  of  which  are  thorny.  They 
are  excellent  as  barriers  for  two  reasons:  either  because  of  their 
thorny  character  or  because  of  their  extremely  close  habit  of  growth. 
The  first  list  (a)  contains  plants  which  hold  their  leaves  during  the 
winter  months,  and  the  second  list  (b)  contains  plants  which  do  not 
hold  their  leaves  during  the  winter  months. 

a.  Holding  leaves  during  winter: 

Chamaecyparis  pisifera  plumosa  Fagus  sylvatica 

Plume-like  Cypress  European  Beech 


124 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Mahonia  nquifolium 
Oregon  Grape 

Picea  excelsa 
Norway  Spruce 


Pyracantha  coccinea  lalandi 

Evergreen  Thorn 
Thuja  (in  variety) 

Arborvitae 


Tsuga  canadensis 
Canadian  Hemlock 


b.     Not  holding  leaves  during  winter: 

Acer  campestre 

European  Cork  Maple 
Berberis  thunbergi 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry 

Carpinus  betulus 

European  Hornbeam 
Chaenomeles  japonica 

Japanese  Quince 
Citrus  trifoliata 

Hardy  Orange 
Crataegus  coccinea 

Scarlet-fruited  Thorn 
Crataegus  cordata 

Washington  Thorn 
Crataegus  crus-galli 

Cockspur  Thorn 
Crataegus  oxycantha 

May  Thorn 


Fagus  americana 

'American  Beech 
Gleditsia  triacanthos 

Honey  Locust 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Sea  Buckthorn 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Madura  pomifera 

Osage  Orange 
Prunus  spinosa 

Black  Thorn 
Rhamnus  cathartica 

Common  Buckthorn 
Rhamnus  frangula  (variety  latifolia) 

Alder  Buckthorn 
Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 


B.  EDGINGS  FOR  WALKS  AND  FOR  GARDEN  BORDERS.  The  plants 
in  this  group  are  either  dwarf  in  their  habit  of  growth  or  can  be  pruned 
severely  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  low,  compact  form.  The  average 
height  at  which  these  hedges  may  be  maintained  is  eight  inches  to 
eighteen  inches. 

Philadelphus  coronarius  nanus 

Dwarf  Mock  Orange 
Philadelphus  coronarius  nanus  aureus 

Golden  Dwarf  Mock  Orange 
Pieris  japonica 

Japanese  Fetterbush 
Pyracantha  coccinea  lalandi 

Evergreen  Thorn 
Rosa  blanda 

Meadow  Rose 
Rosa  polyantha  (in  variety) 

Fairy  Rose 
Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  waterer 

Crimson  Spirea 
Spiraea  callosa  alba 

Fortune's  White  Spirea 


Astilbe  japonica 

Japanese  Astilbe 
Azalea  amoena 

Hardy  Evergreen  Azalea 
Berberis  thunbergi 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry 
Buxus  sujfruticosa 

Dwarf  Box 
Deutzia  gracilis 

Slender  Deutzia 
Ilex  microphylla 

Small-leaved  Holly 
Ilex  glabra 

Inkberry 
Ligustrum  ibota  regelianum 

Regel's  Privet 


PLANTS  FOR  HEDGES  125 

Thuja  occidentalis  ellzvangeriana  Thuja  occidentalis  Tom  Thumb  or 

Ellwanger's  Arborvitae  variety  umbraculifera 

Tom  Thumb  Arborvitae 

Thuja  occidentalis  globosa  Viburnum  opulus  nanum 

Globe  Arborvitae  Dwarf  Bush  Cranberry 

C.  WINDBREAKS   AND   SOLID   SCREENS.     Most  of  the  trees   and 
shrubs  in  this  group  are  rapid  growing  and  are  entirely  hardy  under 
normal  climatic  conditions.     They  can  be  planted  in  close  proximity  to 
each  other  without  injuring  the  individual  specimens.     This  close  plant- 
ing, however,  renders  all  the  trees  useless  in  future  specimen  planting. 

Acer  ginnala  Larix  leptolepfis 

Siberian  Maple  Japanese  Larch 

Acer  negundo  Picea  (in  variety) 

Box  Elder  Spruce 

Acer  saccharinum  pyramidale  Pinus  resinosa 

Pyramidal  Silver  Maple  Red  Pine 

Acer  tataricum  Pinus  strobus 

Tartarian  Maple  White  Pine 

Carpinus  caroliniana  Populus  (in  variety) 

American  Hornbeam  Poplar 

Fagus  americana  Rhamnus  caroliniana 

American  Beech  Carolina  Buckthorn 

Fagus  sylvatica  Salix  (in  variety) 

European  Beech  Willow 

Juniperus  virginiana,  Tsuga  canadensis 

Red  Cedar  Canadian  Hemlock 

Larix  europaea  Tsuga  caroliniana 

European  Larch  Carolina  Hemlock 

D.  FOR   PRIVACY.     These   types   are    selected    because   of  their 
ability  to  develop  a  compact,  heavy  foliage  effect  and  most  of  these 
types  retain  their  foliage  during  the  late  summer  and  early  fall  months. 

Acer  saccharinum  pyramidale  Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Pyramidal  Silver  Maple  (low-branched)          Privet 

Cornus  mas  Lonicera  bella 

Cornelian  Cherry  Zabel's  Honeysuckle 

Elaeagnus  angustifolia  Lonicera  maacki 

Russian  Olive  Late-blooming  Honeysuckle 

Fagus  sylvatica  Lonicera  tatarica 

European  Beech  Tartarian  Honeysuckle 

Forsythia  intermedia  Rhamnus  cathartica 

Hybrid  Golden  Bell  Common  Buckthorn 

Forsythia  viridissima  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Dark  Green  Golden  Bell  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

Hibiscus  syriacus  Syringa  vulgaris 

Rose  of  Sharon  Common  Lilac 

Viburnum  (in  variety) 
Viburnum 


126  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

E.  HEDGES  FOR  BLEAK  EXPOSURES.  These  plants  are  hardy  as 
far  north  as  the  Canadian  northwest  and  will  survive  under  extreme 
exposure.  This  group  has  been  subdivided  in  order  more  clearly  to 
differentiate  between  plants  which  should  be  used  for  their  different 
characteristics  under  different  exposures. 


a.     Late  foliage: 


Syringa  vulgaris  (not  variety  alba) 
Common  Lilac 


b.  Close  shearing: 

Serberis  thunbergi  Elaeagnus  angustifoli* 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Russian  Olive 

Caragana  arborescens  Rhamnus  cathartica 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub  Common  Buckthorn 

Caragana  microphylla  Shepherdia  argentea 

Dahurian  Pea  Shrub  Buffalo  Berry 

Shepherdia  canadensis  (on  lime) 
Canadian  Buffalo  Berry 

c.  Unsheared  low  hedges: 

Berberis  thunbergi  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

d.  Fruiting  hedges: 

Berberis  thunbergi  Rosa  (in  variety) 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Native  Rose 

Crataegus  (in  variety)  Rosa  rugosa 

Thorn  Japanese  Rose 

Hippophae  rhamnoides  Shepherdia  argentea 

Sea  Buckthorn  Buffalo  Berry 

Rhamnus  cathartica  Shepherdia  canadensis  (on  lime) 

Common  Buckthorn  Canadian  Buffalo  Berry 
Symphoricarpos  (in  variety) 
Snowberry 

e.  Shady  places: 

Acer  saccharinum  Philadelphus  coronarius 

Silver  Maple  Common  Mock  Orange 

Crataegus  monogyna  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

English  Hawthorn  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

Lonicera  xylosteum  Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Fly  Bush  Honeysuckle  Snowberry 


PLATE  XX.  An  effective  combination  of  stone  work  and  of  plantings  in 
an  informal  lawn.  Varieties  of  stonecrop,  moss  pinks  and  Scotch  pinks  lend 
charm  to  an  otherwise  uninteresting  mass  of  stone.  (See  plate  LIII,  page  334, 
for  lily  planting  shown  in  background  of  this  picture.)  (See  page  139) 


PLATE  XXI.  An  uninteresting  rocky  slope  often  can  be  turned  into  an 
attractive  landscape  feature  through  the  careful  selection  and  planting  of 
plants  adapted  to  light,  sandy  soils.  This  slope  is  covered  with  a  grouping 
of  hardy  pinks,  evergreen  candy-tuft,  saxifrage  and  tufted  pansy.  (See 
page  139) 


CHAPTER  XIII 
PLANTS  FOR  BORDER  PLANTING 

A  VERY  important  question  in  the  proper  development  of  a  lawn  is 
how  to  give  it  a  background  and  suitable  enclosure  of  trees  and  shrubs. 
This  chapter  is  especially  concerned  with  the  types  of  shrubs  which  are 
used  as  masses  of  planting  in  the  shrub  borders.  These  shrubs  may  be 
used  in  isolated  groups  or  in  a  continuous  border,  the  object  of  either 
method  of  arrangement  being  to  provide  a  frame  for  the  picture. 

There  are  two  types  of  lawns :  the  refined  lawn  area,  and  the  more 
natural  lawn  area  which  fits  into  the  existing  landscape  and  which  is 
not  kept  as  well  mowed  and  as  neatly  edged.  The  refined  lawn  area 
requires  a  type  of  shrub  planting  which  must  be  neat  in  its  outlines, 
possessing  an  interesting  touch  of  foliage,  flowers,  and  fruit,  and 
naturally  making  a  compact  mass.  This  material  is  usually  selected 
from  the  refined  types  of  nursery-grown  stock  such  as  spirea,  privet, 
snowball,  golden  bell,  honeysuckle,  and  mock-orange. 

In  every  border  planting,  if  carefully  analyzed,  there  will  be  found 
three  distinct  types  of  shrubs :  those  which  are  tall  growing,  averaging 
from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  height;  those  which  are  of  medium  growth, 
averaging  from  four  to  seven  feet  in  height;  and  those  which  are  low 
growing,  averaging  from  two  to  four  feet  in  height.  It  is  essential 
properly  to  group  these  shrubs  in  order  to  have  a  compact  foliage  effect 
carrying  from  the  higher  shrubs  through  the  lower  shrubs  to  meet  the 
turf. 

It  is  very  important,  however,  in  the  grouping  of  the  different  types 
of  low,  medium,  and  tall-growing  shrubs  in  refined  plantings  not  only 
to  know  the  normal  height  which  the  shrubs  attain  but  to  know  whether 
the  foliage  texture  on  one  shrub  is  extremely  fine  and  that  on  another 
shrub  extremely  coarse.  For  instance,  the  Japanese  barberry  is  not 
used  to  the  best  advantage  in  front  of  the  coarser,  medium-growing 
varieties  of  flowering  currant,  sumac,  or  viburnum.  It  is  much  better 
adapted  for  use  in  front  of  the  spirea,  white  kerria,  and  privet,  shrubs 
with  smaller  types  of  foliage.  The  reason  is  that  the  sudden  transition 

127 


128  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

from  the  extremely  coarse  texture  of  foliage  to  the  extremely  fine 
texture  of  foliage  creates  a  discord  in  the  landscape  picture. 

There  are  many  of  the  shrubs  contained  in  the  second  group  which 
are  those  used  to  compose  border  plantations  on  a  large  scale  where  the 
detailed  study  of  the  planting  is  not  its  most  important  side,  but  rather 
where  the  general  mass  effects  seen  at  a  distance  produce  the  interest- 
ing effect.  Shrubs  which  are  selected  for  border  planting  on  the  re- 
fined lawn  areas,  which  are  usually  much  more  restricted  than  the  ex- 
tensive lawns,  must  stand  the  test  of  detailed  study  at  the  same  time 
that  they  prove  their  value  as  mass  effects. 

The  shrubs  which  are  valuable  for  the  less-refined  and  extensive 
lawn  areas  may  consist  of  some  of  the  shrubs  for  refined  lawn  plant- 
ings, such  as  the  snowballs  and  the  honeysuckles;  but  in  general  many 
of  these  shrubs  are  more  or  less  native  and  generally  collected  locally. 
It  is  a  difficult  task  to  define  the  material  which  should  be  used  in 
border  plantings  on  the  larger  lawn  areas  where  the  coarser  mass  effects 
will  meet  the  requirements.  In  general,  most  of  the  shrubs  which  are 
adapted  to  plantings  on  the  refined  lawn  areas  are  adapted  to  the 
second  type  of  plantings;  but  not  all  of  the  shrubs  included  in  the 
second  group  and  adapted  to  the  more  unrefined  lawn  areas  are 
adapted  in  any  way  to  use  on  the  limited  refined  lawn  areas. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  BORDER  PLANTING 

A.  MASSES  FOR  REFINED  LAWN  AREAS.  This  group  consists  of 
both  low-growing  and  tall-growing  types  of  shrubs,  mostly  of  a  hardy 
foliage  type,  neat  in  the  habit  of  their  growth,  compact  in  the  texture 
of  their  foliage,  and  comparatively  free  from  the  ravages  of  insects  and 
scale.  The  evergreen  shrubs  which  can  appropriately  be  interjected 
into  border  plantings  are  few  in  number  and  must  be  used  sparingly. 
They  are  omitted  from  the  following  altogether. 

a.     Low-growing  shrubs  (approximately  three  feet  tall): 

Berberis  thunbergi  Deutzia  lemoinei 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Lemoine's  Deutzia 

Callicarpa  purpurea  Hypericum  moserianum 

Beauty  Fruit  Gold  Flower 

Caryopteris  incana  Hypericum  patulum  henryi 

Blue  Spirea  Hybrid  St.  John's  Wort 

Deutzia  gracilis  Kerria  japonica 

Slender  Deutzia  Globe  Flower 


PLANTS  FOR  BORDER  PLANTING  129 

Myrica  cerifera  Spiraea  japonica  alba 

Bayberry  Dwarf  White  Spirea 

Rosa  spinosissima  Stephanandra  flexuosa 

Scotch  Rose  Stephanandra 

Spiraea  arguta  Sympkoricarpos  racemofus 

Hybrid  Snow  Garland  Snowberry 

Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  waterer  Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Crimson  Spirea  Indian  Currant 

Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 
Yellowroot 

b.  Medium-growing  shrubs  (from  four  to  seven  feet  tall): 

Amelanchier  rotundifolia  Prunus  triloba 

June  Berry  Flowering  Plum 

Aralia  pentaphylla  Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Five-leaved  Angelica  White  Kerria 

Cornus  (in  variety)  Rhus  canadensis  (horizontal  form) 

Dogwood  Fragrant  Sumac 

Cotoneaster  dielsiana  Rhus  copallina 

Chinese  Cotoneaster  Shining  Sumac 

Cotoneaster  lucida  Ribes  aureum 

Hybrid  Cotoneaster  Flowering  Currant 

Diervilla  hybrida — Eva  Rathke  Sophora  viciifolia 

Hybrid  Weigela  Sophora 

Evonymus  alatus  Spiraea  prunifolia 

Cork-barked  Burning  Bush  Bridal  Wreath 

Evonymus  yedoensis  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Japanese  Spindle  Tree  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

Forsythia  intermedia  spectabilis  Spiraea  veitchi 

Hybrid  Golden  Bell  Veitch's  Spirea 

Ligustrum  amurense  Syringa  persica 

Amoor  River  Privet  Persian  Lilac 

Ligustrum  ibota  regelianum  Viburnum  carlesi 

Regel's  Privet  Korean  Viburnum 

Magnolia  stellata  Fiburnum  cassinoides 

Starry  Magnolia  Withe-rod 

Prunus  japonica  (in  variety)  Fiburnum  dilatatum 

Flowering  Almond  Japanese  Bush  Cranberry 

Fiburnum  tomentosum 
Single  Japanese   Snowball 

c.  Tall-growing  shrubs  (growing  over  seven  feet  tall): 

Cercis  canadensis  Evonymus  bungeanus 
Red-bud  Bunge's  Spindle  Tree 

Diervilla  floribunda  Evonymus  europaeus 
Pink  Weigela  European  Spindle  Tree 

Diervilla  florida  Exochorda  grandiflora 
Rose-coloured  Weigela  Pearl  Bush 


i3o  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Forsythia  intermedia  Lonicera  talarica 

Hybrid  Golden  Bell  Tartarian  Honeysuckle 

Forsythia  suspensa  fortunei  Philadelphus  coronarius 

Fortune's  Golden  Bell  Common  Mock  Orange 

Forsythia  viridissima  Philadelphus  falconeri 

Dark  Green  Golden  Bell  Falconer's  Mock  Orange 

Lonicera  bella  Syringa  (in  variety) 

Zabel's  Honeysuckle  Lilac 

Lonicera  maacki  Viburnum  lantana 

Late-blooming  Honeysuckle  Wayfaring  Tree 

Lonicera  morrowi  Viburnum  lentago 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle  Sheep  Berry 

Viburnum  opulus 
High  Bush  Cranberry 

B.  MASSES  CONSISTING  MOSTLY  OF  NATIVE  COLLECTED  SHRUBS. 
This  group  consists  mostly  of  shrubs  which  are  indigenous  to  the  sec- 
tion of  the  country  where  they  are  used.  These  plants  are  adapted  to 
plantations  on  a  large  or  small  scale,  where  a  feeling  of  formality 
or  of  definite  refinement  of  detail  is  not  required.  It  is  difficult  to 
differentiate  fully  between  the  two  groups  in  this  chapter.  A  number 
of  shrubs  may  equally  well,  under  expert  selection  and  placing,  be  used 
in  either  group  interchangeably. 

a.  Low-growing  shrubs: 

Azalea  lutea  Filipendula  purpurea 

Flame-coloured  Azalea  Steeple  Bush 

Azalea  nudiflora  Hypericum  aureum 

Pinkster  Flower  Large-flowered  St.  John's  Wort 

Azalea  vaseyi  Itea  virginica 

Carolina  Azalea  Virginian  Willow 

Callicarpa  purpurea  Myrica  cerifera 

Beauty  Fruit  Bayberry 

Ceanothus  americanus  Rhodora  canadensis 

New  Jersey  Tea  Rhodora 

Comptonia  asplenifolia  Rosa  nitida 

Sweet  Fern  Shining-leaved  Rose 

Diervilla  trifida  Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Bush  Honeysuckle  Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 
Indian  Currant 

b.  Medium-growing  shrubs: 

Amorpha  fruticosa  Aronia  melanocarpa 
False  Indigo  Black  Chokeberry 

Aronia  arbutifolia  Azalea  arborescens 
Red  Chokeberry  Smooth  Azalea 


PLANTS  FOR  BORDER  PLANTING  131 

Calycanthus  floridus  Ilex  glabra 

Strawberry  Shrub  Inkberry 

Cephalanthus  occidentalis  Kalmia 

Button  Bush  Laurel 

Clethra  alnifolia  Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  Rhododendron 

Dirca  palustris  Rhus  canadensis 

Leatherwood  Fragrant  Sumac 

Evonymus  americanus  Roses 

Strawberry  Bush  (In  variety) 

Hydrangea  arborescens  Viburnum  acerifolium 

Wild  Hydrangea  Maple-leaved  Viburnum 

c.        Tall-growing  shrubs: 

Amelanchier  canadensis  Hamamelis  virginiana 

Shad-bush  Witch  Hazel 

Chionanthus  virginica  Ilex  verticillata 

White  Fringe  Winterberry 

Cornusflorida  Pyrus  (in  variety) 

Flowering  Dogwood  Crab 

Corylus  americana  Sambucus  canadensis 

Hazelnut  American  Elder 

Crataegus  (in  variety)  Sambucus  racemosa 

Thorn  Red-berried  Elder 

Evonymus  atropurpureus  Staphylea  trifolia 

Burning  Bush  American  Bladder-nut 
Viburnum  (in  variety) 
Viburnum 


CHAPTER  XIV 


THERE  are  two  kinds  of  specimen  plants,  those  which  are  used  as 
single  specimens,  with  full  space  allowed  for  their  normal  development, 
and  those  which  are  used  as  accent  plants  in  masses  of  border  planting, 
because,  as  such,  on  account  of  their  flowering  and  foliage  habits,  they 
lend  a  definite  touch  of  interest  to  the  plantation. 

The  various  plants  included  in  this  group  are  those  which  have 
a  normal  symmetrical  habit  of  growth,  or  those  which  can  easily  be 
kept  in  a  neat,  symmetrical  outline.  In  order  fully  to  understand  the 
difference  between  specimen  trees  and  shrubs,  and  trees  and  shrubs 
for  border  plantings  in  groups,  the  reader  should  first  know  that  many 
of  our  trees  and  shrubs  are  not  adapted  to  so-called  "mass  plantings." 
Under  the  crowded  condition  of  mass  plantings  these  trees  and  shrubs 
do  not  produce  any  of  their  interesting  characteristics  of  flowers  and 
general  outline.  Much  dead  growth  becomes  evident  on  account  of  the 
exclusion  of  light  and  air  necessary  for  their  proper  development.  It 
is  necessary  to  examine  but  a  few  plantations  further  to  know  that 
many  trees  and  shrubs  most  interesting  when  used  as  individual 
specimens  or  as  groups  of  two  or  three  plants  make  a  most  uninterest- 
ing group  when  massed  in  quantity. 

In  general  it  may  be  said  that  specimen  plants  are  used  as  such 
because  of  their  fruiting  habit,  flowering  habit,  interesting  outline,  or 
general  foliage  effect,  which  is  evidenced  at  its  best  when  the  material 
is  planted  as  individual  specimens. 

So-called  specimen  plants  in  this  group  are  often  used  as  accent 
plants  in  the  larger  and  massed  plantations,  because  of  the  quality  of 
the  flowers,  the  colour  of  the  foliage,  the  habit  of  their  growth,  or 
the  texture  and  colour  of  twigs.  Many  specimen  plants  can  be  used  to 
good  advantage  scattered  here  and  there  in  the  border  plantations  to 
emphasize  one  or  more  of  these  interesting  characteristics,  and  they 
sometimes  are  even  more  effectively  used  in  this  way  as  accent  plants 
than  as  specimen  plants  on  the  lawn. 

Whenever  material  is  selected  as  specimen  material  it  should  be 

132 


ACCENT  AND  SPECIMEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS     133 

planted  as  such,  and  space  should  be  provided  wherein  the  plants  can 
develop  their  individual  and  normal  characteristic  habits  of  growth; 
but  when  they  are  used  as  accent  plants  it  is  not  so  essential  to  provide 
space  for  normal  development.  Illustrations  of  this  may  be  seen  in 
the  use  of  the  burning  bush,  the  sourwood,  and  the  silver  bell. 

LIST  OF  ACCENT  AND  SPECIMEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS 

The  types  of  plants  in  these  two  groups  are  sometimes  used  in  large 
masses  as  specimens  or  as  accent  plants.  The  best  effect  as  specimens 
is  obtained  when  they  are  used  singly  and  as  accent  plants  when  they 
are  used  either  singly  or  in  groups  varying  from  one  to  three  specimens. 
These  plants  are  valuable  because  of  flowers,  foliage,  habit  of  growth, 
texture  of  growth,  colour  of  twigs,  or  fruiting  effect. 


A.    TREES. 

a.     Accent  and  specimen  trees: 

Abifs  (in  variety) 

Fir 
Acer  palmatum  (in  variety) 

Japanese  Maple 
Acer  plaianoides  schwedleri 

Schwedler's  Purple  Maple 
Aesculus  (in  variety) 

Horse-chestnut 
Betula  (in  variety) 

Birch 
Catalpa  bungei 

Round-leaved  Catalpa 
Cercidiphyllum  japonicum 

Kadsura  Tree 
Cercis  canadensis 

Red-bud 
Chamaecyparis  (in  variety) 

Cypress 
Cladrastris  lutea 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus  fiorida 

Flowering  Dogwood 
Cornus  kousa 

Japanese  Dogwood 
Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Thorn 
Fagus  (in  variety) 

Beech 
Fagus  sylvatica  heterophylla 

Fern-leaved  European  Beech 


Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Koelreuteria  paniculata 

Varnish  Tree 
Larix  (in  variety) 

Larch 
Liqui.dam.bar  styraciflua 

Sweet  Gum 
Magnolia  (in  variety) 

Magnolia 
Morus  alba  tatarica  pendula 

Tea's  Weeping  Mulberry 
Nyssa  sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Oxydendrum  arboreum 

Sourwood 
Picea  (in  variety) 

Spruce 

Pinus  (in  variety) 
Pine 

Populus  alba  pyramidalis 

Bolle's  Poplar 
Populus  nigra  italica 

Lombardy  Poplar 
Prunus  fruticosa  pendula 

Weeping  Cherry 
Prunus  padus  commutata 

Hybrid  European  Bird  Cherry 
Prunus  persica 

Flowering  Peach 


t 

-e 


134  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Prunus  pissardi  Sorbus  quercifolia 

Purple-leaved  Plum  Oak-leaved  Mountain  Ash 

Pyrus  (in  variety)  Taxodium  distichum 

Crab  Bald  Cypress 

Quercus  (in  variety)  Tilia  tomentosa 

Oak  Silver  Linden 

Salix  blanda  Thuja  (in  variety) 

Wisconsin  Weeping  Willow  Arborvitae 

Salix  vitellina  britzensis  Tsuga  canadensis  (in  variety) 

Hybrid  Yellow  Willow  Canadian  Hemlock 

Sciadopitys  verticillata  Ulmus  foliacea  wheatleyi 

Umbrella  Pine  Wheatley's  Cornish  Elm 

Ulmus  glabra  camperdowni 
Camperdown  Weeping  Elm 

b.     Columnar  and  pyramidal  trees: 

Oftentimes  situations  arise  in  the  solution  of  landscape  problems 
where  the  use  of  trees  for  their  pyramidal  or  columnar  habit  of  growth 
becomes  almost  a  necessity.  This  necessity  may  arise  because  of  such 
features  being  an  important  part  of  the  landscape  composition,  or  it 
may  arise  because  of  the  screen  effect  which  the  designer  is  desirous 
of  producing  where  trees  must  develop  within  a  narrow  space  of  from 
two  to  four  feet.  Most  of  the  trees  in  this  group  develop  normally  into 
a  pyramidal  or  columnar  form  like  the  pyramidal  maples,  the  poplars, 
and  the  red  cedar,  quite  unlike  the  spreading  habit  of  the  sugar  maples, 
horse-chestnut,  and  beech.  None  of  these  trees  lend  themselves  to  use 
in  plantations  where  a  broad,  informal  character  is  desired  in  the 
picture;  but  all  lend  themselves  for  use  in  landscape  planting  where  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  background  of  heavy  foliage  and  an  immediate 
garden  planting  close  to  these  trees.  The  planter  should  always 
bear  in  mind  that  a  background  of  trees  of  this  type,  planted  closely 
together,  will  be  very  injurious  to  a  flower  garden  development, 
provided  the  screen  planting  is  located  on  the  southerly  side  of  the 
flower  garden,  thus  throwing  dense  shade  over  the  garden  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  From  another  point  of  view,  however,  this 
type  of  tree  planted  closely  together  will  prove  a  wonderful  asset  if 
planted  on  the  southerly  side  of  some  fountain  or  garden  terminus 
where  it  is  desired  to  produce  a  heavy  shade. 

Abies  brachyphylla  Acer  Saccharinum  pyramidale 

Nikko  Fir  Pyramidal  Silver  Maple 

Abies  concolor  Acer  saccharum  monumentale 

White  Fir  Pyramidal  Sugar  Maple 


ACCENT  AND  SPECIMEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS     135 

Betula  alba  fastigiata   _  Populus  nigra  italica 

Pyramidal  White  Birch  Lombardy  Poplar 

Carpinus  betulus  fastigiata  Quercus  robur  pyramidalis 

Pyramidal  Hornbeam  Pyramidal  English  Oak 

Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana  Robinia  pseudacacia  pyramidalis 

Lawson's  Cypress  Pyramidal  Black  Locust 

Juniperus  communis  suecica  Sorbus  hybrida  fastigiata 

Swedish  Juniper  Pyramidal  Mountain  Ash 

Juniperus  virginiana  pyramidalis  Taxodium  distichum  pyramidatum 

Pyramidal  Red  Cedar  Pyramidal  Bald  Cypress 

Juniperus  virginiana  schotti  Thuja  occidentalis  fastigiata 

Schott's  Red  Cedar  Fastigiate  Arborvitae 

Liriodendron  tulipifera  pyramidalis  Thuja  occidentalis  plicata 

Pyramidal  Tulip  Tree  Pyramidal  Arborvitae 

Picea  excelsa  columnaris  Thuja  orientalis  pyramidalis 

Columnar  Norway  Spruce  Columnar  Oriental  Arborvitae 

Picea  excelsa  pyramidalis  Tsuga  heterophylla 

Pyramidal  Norway  Spruce  Western  Hemlock 

Populus  alba  pyramidalis  Ulmus  foliacea  dampieri 

Bolle's  Poplar  Fastigiate  Elm 
Ulmus  foliacea  whe  alley  i 
Wheatley's  Cornish  Elm 

B.    SHRUBS. 

Aesculus  parviflora  Evonymus  europaeus 

Dwarf  Horse-chestnut  European  Spindle  Tree 

Azalea  (in  variety)  Exochorda  grandiflora 

Azalea  Pearl  Bush 

Caragana  arborescens  Halesia  Carolina 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub  Silver  Bell 

Chaenomeles  japonica  Hibiscus  syriacus 

Japanese  Quince  Rose  of  Sharon 

Chionanthus  retusa  Hydrangea  (in  variety) 

Chinese  Fringe  Tree  Hydrangea 

Chionanthus  virginica  Prunus  japonica 

White  Fringe  Flowering  Almond 

Cornus  stolonifera  flavirammea  Prunus  triloba 

Golden-twigged  Osier  Flowering  Plum 

Corylus  maxima  purpurea  Rhus  cotinus 

Purple-leaved  Hazel  Smoke  Bush 

Diervilla  hybrida  lutea-marginata  Robinia  hispida  (grafted  high) 

Variegated  Weigela  Rose  Acacia 

Deutzia  scabra  Sambucus  canadensis  aurea 

Single  White  Deutzia  Golden  Elder 

Evonymus  alatus  Stewartia  pentagyna 

Cork-barked  Burning  Bush  Alleghany  Stewartia 

Evonymus  americanus  Tamarix  odessana 

Strawberry  Bush  Caspian  Tamarisk 


CHAPTER  XV 

PLANTS  VALUABLE  FOR  USE  IN  ROCK  GARDENS,  IN 
JAPANESE  GARDENS,  AND  IN  WALL  CREVICES 

A  FULLY  developed  estate  to-day  is  not  complete  without  an  in- 
teresting rock  garden,  not  because  it  gives  an  interesting  physical 
variety  to  the  landscape,  but  because  it  provides  an  opportunity  for 
the  development  of  one  of  our  most  interesting  groups  of  plants,  those 
plants  which  grow  their  best  and  prove  most  interesting  in  a  miniature 
landscape  of  this  rocky  character.  These  gardens  have  been  de- 
veloped to  perfection  on  many  English  estates. 

The  group  of  plants  valuable  for  the  development  of  rock  garden 
work  is  comparatively  little  known  to  the  amateur,  and  yet  there  are 
used  in  rock  gardens  many  interesting  types  frequently  used  for  other 
purposes.  It  is  true  that  many  of  the  plants  grown  for  rock  gardens 
are  very  dwarf  in  their  habit  of  growth  and  much  more  sensitive  to 
changed  conditions  of  soil  and  exposure,  and  that  many  of  them  there- 
fore require  expert  labour  for  their  normal  development. 

The  most  interesting  group  of  plants,  perhaps,  for  rock  garden  work, 
includes  the  plants  known  as  "alpine"  plants,  which  are  low-growing, 
very  dense,  and  compact  in  their  habit  of  growth.  Most  of  these  plants 
have  small  leaves  and  the  flowers  are  rather  brilliant  and  marked  in 
their  colours.  The  term  "alpine"  plants  to-day  is  applied  in  its 
general  use  to  that  dwarf  and  low-growing  group  of  plants  which  have  a 
tendency  to  compactness  of  habit,  and  which  in  their  mature  form  of 
development  seem  to  fit  into  the  confined  atmosphere  of  the  average 
rock  garden.  The  true  rock  garden  plants  may  perhaps  be  the 
"alpine"  types,  but  those  plants  which  landscape  architects  use 
to-day  for  rock  garden  purposes  include  not  only  the  "alpine"  types 
but  many  small  plants,  even  though  they  come  from  the  lowlands, 
from  the  woods,  or  from  the  more  arid  desert  sections.  There  are  a 
few  of  the  tall-growing  types  of  plants,  such  as  foxgloves  and  some 
of  the  single  roses,  which,  though  not  dwarf  in  character,  are  ad- 
mirably fitted  to  the  scale  of  rock  garden  work. 

136 


ROCK  AND  JAPANESE  GARDENS,  WALL  CREVICES  137 

To  one  who  is  in  the  beginning  of  this  work  of  selecting  plants  for 
rock  garden  use  the  impression  should  not  be  conveyed  that  every 
plant  which  is  dwarf  in  its  habit  of  growth  is  desirable  for  the  rock 
garden.  Many  of  these  plants  are  extremely  undesirable,  such  as 
the  creeping  Jenny  (lysimachia)  and  dead  nettle  (lamium  maculatum), 
mostly  because  of  their  tendency  to  grow  rampant  and  to  crowd  out 
and  smother  many  of  the  more  sensitive  and  more  beautiful  types  of 
rock  garden  plants.  These  plants  are  also  difficult  to  eradicate  from 
the  garden  when  once  they  become  established.  They  should  never 
be  used  except  in  a  rock  garden  on  an  extensive  scale  where  the  tend- 
ency to  spread  will  not  eventually  become  offensive.  In  order  to 
maintain  the  true  rock  garden  character  it  is  very  essential  that  plants 
should  be  selected  which  are  in  harmony  with  the  spirit  of  the  garden. 
Many  so-called  rock  gardens  are  filled  with  the  more  common  annuals, 
with  sweet  williams,  phlox,  hollyhocks,  and  even  large  irises — plants 
which  belong  to  an  entirely  different  type  of  garden,  or  which,  because 
of  their  size,  are  not  in  keeping  with  the  scale  of  a  minutely  detailed  rock 
garden. 

It  is  not  necessary,  in  the  development  of  an  interesting  rock  gar- 
den, to  use  a  large  quantity  of  different  types  of  plants.  The  success 
of  a  rock  garden  is  dependent  largely  upon  the  ability  of  the  designer 
to  select  proper  types  of  plants  for  a  specific  purpose,  whether  the  rock 
garden  be  very  small  and  occupying  only  a  corner  of  the  lawn,  or 
whether  it  be  an  extensive  area  in  some  wooded  portion  of  the  property. 
Such  plants  as  hydrangeas,  spireas,  petunias,  and  many  plants  of  these 
types  which  the  reader  has  often  seen  in  rock  garden  work,  give  evi- 
dence immediately  of  the  lack  of  knowledge  of  plants  and  of  their 
proper  usage. 

It  is  true  also  that  the  plants  which  are  used  in  rock  gardens  require 
an  amount  of  care  in  their  maintenance  equal  to  that  given  plants  in 
the  more  refined  and  formal  types  of  garden  work. 

For  the  person  who  has  progressed  along  the  path  of  successful  rock 
gardening  it  might  be  well  to  suggest  that  he  should  endeavour  to 
become  intimately  acquainted  with  the  plants  which  he  is  using, 
especially  their  source  of  origin  and  the  conditions  under  which  they 
grew  in  their  native  locations.  Plants  which  will  withstand  extreme 
drought,  hot  suns,  and  extreme  cold,  if  they  are  planted  in  the  correct 
locations  in  a  rock  garden,  will  not  be  hardy  to  any  extent  when  planted 
in  the  open  border.  In  other  words,  such  plants  as  the  cheddar  pink 


138 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


and  the  wild  pink  are  considered  to  be  true  crevice  plants,  and  they 
should  be  used  only  for  that  purpose  in  rock  garden  work.  These 
plants  have  a  type  of  environment  equally  as  much  as  persons  or 
animals  and  under  which  they  thrive  best.  The  beginner  who  is 
developing  this  type  of  garden  should  therefore  only  use  the  more 
common  types  of  plants  which  have  withstood  the  abuse  of  "  amateurs  " 
and  should  make  use  of  the  specialized  plants  only  after  a  thorough 
knowledge  is  gained  concerning  them. 

One  writer  has  said  concerning  the  development  of  a  rock  garden 
that  the  designer  should  "have  an  idea  and  stick  to  it."  We  see  so 
many  rock  gardens  which  are  so-called  and  which  in  reality  are  only 
a  miscellaneous  pile  of  stones.  Rock  gardens  in  their  true  sense 
are  an  imitation  of  some  condition  of  nature,  both  from  their  physical 
makeup  and  from  their  planting.  We  should  therefore  make  a 
double  effort  to  strive  toward  the  development  of  the  idea. 

One  of  the  most  successful  ways  for  obtaining  good  rock  garden 
plants  is  to  grow  them  from  seed.  It  is  often  easier  to  seed  plants 
in  rock  garden  groups  than  it  is  to  plant  nursery-grown  stock. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  VALUABLE  FOR  USE  IN  ROCK  GARDENS, 
IN  JAPANESE  GARDENS,  AND  IN  WALL  CREVICES 

A.  EVERGREENS.  In  every  garden  development  of  this  kind,  a 
touch  of  evergreen  foliage,  the  texture  of  which  is  peculiar  to  evergreen 
plantings,  is  essential  to  lend  the  desired  interest  to  the  garden.  These 
evergreens  are  extremely  dwarf  in  character  and  not  vigorous  in  their 
habit  of  growth. 


Buxus  suffruticosa 

Dwarf  Box 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa  nana 

Dwarf  Japanese  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  obtusa  nana  aurea 

Dwarf  Golden  Japanese  Cypress 
Cornus  canadensis 

Bunchberry 
Daphne  cneorum 

Garland  Flower 
Erica  vagans 

Cornish  Heath 
Gaultheria  procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Juniperus  communis 

Common  Juniper 


Juniperus  sabina 

Savin  Juniper 
Juniperus  sabina  tamariscifolia 

Tamarisk-leaved  Savin 
Linnaea  borealis 

Twin  Flower 
Mahonia  re-pens 

Creeping  Mahonia 
Pachistima  canbyi 

Canby's  Mountain  Lover 
Pachysandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 
Picea  excelsa  gregoriana 

Gregory's  Dwarf  Norway  Spruce 
Pieris  floribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 


ROCK  AND  JAPANESE  GARDENS,  WALL  CREVICES  139 

Pinus  montana  mughus  Shortia  galacifolia 

Dwarf  Mountain  Pine  Shortia 

Pyxidanthera  barbulata  Taxus  baccata  repandens 

Flowering  Moss  Spreading  English  Yew 

Rhododendron  carolinianum  Taxus  canadensis 

Dwarf  Rhododendron  Ground  Yew 

Rhododendron  ferrugineum  Taxus  cuspidata  nana 

Rusty-leaved  Rhododendron  Japanese  Yew 

B.  DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.    Trees  used  in  gardens  of  this 
kind  must  be  the  low-growing  types  with  a  compact  habit  of  growth, 
and  the  shrubs  also  must  be  types  which  will  lend  themselves  readily  to 
the  character  of  this  kind  of  garden.     It  is  hardly  possible  to  define 
in  words  the  exact  character  which  the  shrubbery  must  possess  in  order 
to  be  valuable  for  this  type  of  planting.     The  trees  and  shrubs  in 
this  group  may  be  used  with  safety,  and  there  are  many  other  shrubs 
which  can  be  selected  from  other  lists  and  used  by  experts. 

Acer  palmatum  Evonymus  obovatus 

Japanese  Maple  Running  Strawberry  Bush 

Azalea  japonica  Hypericum  moserianum 

Japanese  Azalea  Gold-flower 

Azalea  nudiflora  Lonicera  spinosa  alberti 

Pinkster  Flower  .      Large-fruited  Honeysuckle 

Cotoneaster  adpressa  Philadelphus  coronarius  nanus 

Creeping  Cotoneaster  Dwarf  Mock  Orange 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis  Rhodora  canadensis 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster  Rhodora 

Deutzia  gracilis  Viburnum  opulus  nanum 

Slender  Deutzia  Dwarf  Bush  Cranberry 

C.  PERENNIALS.     This  group  of  plants  forms  one  of  the  most 
interesting    phases    of   rock    garden    development.     Most    of   these 
perennials  are  either  heavy  in  their  texture  of  foliage,  or  very  dwarf  in 
their  habit  of  growth.    They  will  adapt  themselves  to  cultivation  in  the 
congested  spaces  so  often  found  in  garden  developments  of  this  kind. 

Achillea  boule  de  neige  *Arabis  alpina  nana  compacta 

Ball  of  Snow  Dwarf  Alpine  Rock  Cress 

*Alyssum  argenteum  *Arenaria  montana 

Silvery  Madwort  Sandwort 

*Alyssum  saxatile  compactum  Campanula  carpatica 

Golden  Tuft  Carpathian  Harebell 

Anemone  pennsylvanica  Centaurea  montana 

Canadian  Windflower  Mountain  Bluet 

Aquikgia  canadensis  *Cerastium  tomentosum 

American  Columbine  Snow-in-summer 

*Plants  especially  well  adapted  for  use  in  crevkes  of  walls  and  paved  areas. 


140 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Ceratostigma  plumb aginoides 

Leadwort 
Coreopsis  verticillata 

Dwarf  Tickseed 
Coronilla  varia 

Crown  Vetch 
Dalibarda  repens 

Barren  Strawberry 
*Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 
*Dianthus  plumarius 

Scotch  Pink 
Dicentra  eximia 

Wild  Bleeding  Heart 
Dodecatheon  media 

Shooting  Star 
Draba  azoides 

Aizoon-like  Whitlow  Grass 
Epimedium  macranthum 

Japanese  Barrenwort 
Erysimum  pulchellum 

Rock-loving  Hedge  Mustard 
Euphorbia  corollata 

Flowering  Spurge 
Geranium  sanguineum 

Crane's  Bill 
Hedera  helix  conglomerata 

Small-leaved  English  Ivy 

Helianthemum  croceum 

Rock  Rose 
Heuchera  brizoides 

Red  Coral-bells 
Heuchera  sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Iberis  sempervirens 

Evergreen  Candytuft 
Iris  cristata 

Crested  Iris 
Linaria  cymbalaria 

Kenilworth  Ivy 
Linaria  cymbalaria  maxima 

Large-flowered  Kenilworth  Ivy 
Linum  perenne 

Perennial  Flax 
Lychnis  viscaria  splendens 

Ragged  Robin 
Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 

Viola  (various 
Violet 


Nepeta  mussini 

Catmint 
Pachysandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 
*Phlox  stolonifera 

Creeping  Phlox 
Phlox  subulata 

Moss  Pink 
Primula  veris 

English  Cowslip 
Ranunculus  acris  flore  plena 

Double  Buttercup 
Saponaria  ocymoides 

Rock  Soapwort 
Saxifraga  cordifolia 

Saxifrage 
*Sedum  acre 

Mossy  Stonecrop 
*Sedum  album 

White  Stonecrop 
*Sedum  sexangulare 

Dark  Green  Stonecrop 
Sedum  spectabile 

Brilliant  Stonecrop 
Silene  maritima 

Seaside  Campion 
Silene  pennsylvanica 

Wild  Pink 
Silene  schafta 

Autumn  Campion 
Stellaria  holostea 

Starwort 
Stokesia  cyanea 

Stokes'  Aster 
Thalictrum  aquilegifolium 

Meadow-rue 
*Thymus  serpyllum  languinosus 

Downy  Thyme 
*Tunica  saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like  Tunica 
Vancouveria  hexandra 

American  Barrenwort 
Veronica  incana 

Hoary  Speedwell 
*  Veronica  repens 

Creeping  Speedwell 
Vinca  minor 

Periwinkle 
species) 


*Plants  especially  well  adapted  for  use  in  crevices  of  walls  and  paved  areas. 


WHILE  many  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  hands  of  expert  designers  and 
gardeners  may  be  used  interchangeably  for  either  formal  or  informal 
effects,  the  fact  still  remains  that  there  is  a  group  of  plants  which  are 
best  adapted  for  use  to  produce  the  heavier  and  more  compact  formal 
effects.  The  effect  of  formality  is  obtained  by  emphasizing  geometric 
lines  or  surfaces.  Plants  which  are  upright,  slow-growing,  and  more 
compact  in  their  habit,  are  better  adapted  for  this  purpose  than 
plants  which  are  more  vigorous  in  their  habit  of  growth,  more  spread- 
ing, and  looser  in  texture  and  therefore  less  apt  to  retain  a  consistent, 
definite  form. 

The  expert  may  select  plants  from  Chapter  XVII  and  in  many  in- 
stances produce  an  effect  equally  as  attractive  as  that  produced 
by  plants  in  this  group.  The  possibilities  of  failure,  however,  are 
much  greater,  and  the  subsequent  necessity  of  pruning  to  retain  ap- 
proximate forms  is  much  greater. 

We  speak  of  heavy  formality  as  a  contrasting  term  to  plants  which 
are  loose.  Compact  may  be  a  better  word.  It  is  often  necessary  to 
develop  border  plantations  surrounding  lawns  filled  with  a  feeling  of 
formality,  because  of  numerous  axial  lines,  and  also  to  surround  or 
border  definite  formal  garden  areas  with  trees  and  shrubs.  To  be 
successful  these  masses  of  plants  must  lend  themselves  to  this  formal 
effect.  They  must  be  such  as  can  be  kept  within  definite  limits  with 
the  normal  amount  of  pruning.  The  European  hornbeam,  the  red 
cedar,  pyramidal  arborvitae,  and  tartarian  honeysuckle  are  excellent 
illustrations  of  this  type  of  material.  A  so-called  formal  effect  in  a 
border  planting  is  not  necessarily  produced  by  the  use  of  trees.  It 
may  be  equally  well  produced  by  shrubs  depending  upon  the  scale 
of  the  landscape  setting.  It  is  not  necessary  either  to  resort  to 
the  use  of  evergreens,  although  there  are  certain  types  of  architectural 
details  beside  which  deciduous  plantings  appear  "weak."  Climatic 
conditions  being  favourable  for  a  normal  growth  of  the  type  of  material 


I42  THE  "COMPLETE  GARDEN 

best  suited,  the  decision  to  use  evergreens  or  deciduous  material  will 
be  governed  by  the  effect  which  is  desired. 

Topiary  work  as  a  type  of  planting  producing  formal  effects  is  the 
extreme  of  artificial  methods.  Trees  and  shrubs  which  are  selected 
for  this  purpose  are  included  almost  without  exception  in  the  group 
known  as  "evergreens  and  broad-leaved  evergreens,"  such  as  the  yews, 
holly,  and  boxwoods.  The  hawthorn  and  the  beech  are  the  marked 
exceptions  to  this  general  rule,  and  are  plants  capable  of  severe  pruning 
to  produce  artificial  and  fantastic  shapes.  These  plants  must  lend 
themselves  readily  to  frequent  and  to  severe  prunings  in  order  to 
produce  these  forms.  While  topiary  work  as  a  matter  of  design  is  ex- 
tremely limited  in  its  application,  there  will  often  arise  situations  in 
which  this  extreme  and  violent  treatment  to  produce  the  artificial 
forms  in  plants  is  justified.  Topiary  work  has  at  times  been  very 
appropriately  termed  verdant  sculpture.  It  is  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  sculpture  in  plant  forms  so  far  as  plants  will  lend  themselves  to 
details  of  such  experiments.  All  of  these  plants  which  are  especially 
adapted  to  topiary  work  are  extremely  slow  growing  and  long  lived. 
While  many  fantastic  forms  can  be  developed  from  such  plants  as  the 
privet  and  hawthorn  within  a  comparatively  short  period,  the  rare, 
more  perfect,  and  permanent  forms  are  usually  the  result  of  using  the 
boxwood  or  yew.  Most  of  these  trees  which  are  adapted  to  topiary 
work,  especially  the  pyramidal  form  of  topiary  work,  are  upright  grow- 
ing, single-stemmed  specimens.  Plants  which  are  adapted  to  these 
effects  must  also  be  of  a  compact  texture  with  foliage  evenly  developed 
to  a  point  close  to  the  ground. 

There  are  many  deciduous  plants  which,  while  not  being  adapted  to 
topiary  work,  are  adapted  to  close  shearing  to  produce  formal  effects. 
Many  experts  do  not  realize  that  there  are  various  species  of  the  same 
genera  which  lend  themselves  much  more  effectively  to  close  shearing 
in  definite  forms  than  other  species  of  that  genera.  The  Japanese 
privet  is  much  more  effective  in  the  lower  hedge  of  two  to  four  feet, 
because  of  its  tendency  to  "mat,"  than  the.Amoor  River  privet,  which 
has  a  tendency  to  make  long  growths.  All  of  the  deciduous  plants  in 
these  groups  are  comparatively  slow  in  growing  habit.  They  have  a 
tendency  to  frequent  branching  and  a  further  tendency  to  throw  out 
new  growths  from  dormant  buds  when  the  ends  of  the  existing  branches 
are  removed. 

While  there  is  a  considerable  list  of  plants  which  are  adapted  for 


PLANTS  FOR  HEAVY  FORMAL  EFFECTS  I43 

grovring  in  tubs,  as  frequently  seen,  for  accent  points  in  a  formal 
garden  or  on  a  terrace,  the  amateur  should  best  confine  himself  to  the 
Japanese  laurel,  the  evergreen  evonymus,  the  greenhouse  hydrangea, 
pyramidal  arborvitae,  and  the  boxwood.  Most  of  these  should  be 
transferred  during  the  winter  months,  preferably  to  a  cold  cellar  or 
to  a  cold  house,  and  even  those  which  are  semi-hardy,  if  left  out  of 
doors,  should  be  carefully  boxed  and  protected. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  groups  of  trees  and  shrubs  for  formal 
effects  are  those  which  are  valuable  for  use  in  pleached  allees.  This 
feature  in  the  design  of  large  estates  has  not  yet  reached  its  height  and 
will  become  more  popular  with  the  development  of  landscape  design  as 
applied  to  American  estates  and  gardens.  The  plants  of  this  group 
must  be  resistant  to  disease  and  insect  pests  and  they  must  be  able  to 
thrive  under  conditions  of  severe  pruning.  The  one  most  important 
requisite  is  that  they  shall  be  long  lived  and  not  easily  broken  by  win- 
ter storms.  The  texture  of  branching  must  be  close.  To  use  for 
pleached  allees  trees,  such  as  the  birches,  which  are  short  lived  and  which 
always  begin  to  deteriorate  at  a  time  when  the  allee  should  be  most 
picturesque  and  at  its  height,  is  landscape  folly.  It  takes  years, 
five  to  eight  years,  to  develop  a  pleached  allee  so  that  the  tops  will  come 
together.  To  endeavour  to  hasten  the  growth  of  plants  by  excessive 
fertilization  during  the  first  two  or  three  years  will  have  a  tendency  to 
split  the  bark  and  to  expose  the  trunks  to  severe  injury  from  freezing 
and  rotting.  These  plants  should  be  of  a  spreading  habit  of  growth  as 
contrasted  with  the  columnar  habit  of  growth  desired  for  open  allees. 
While  these  specimens  are  planted  at  intervals  of  eighteen  to  twenty- 
four  inches  in  rows,  it  often  becomes  necessary  to  interplant  with  the 
smaller  specimens  which  will  serve  as  fillers  for  the  base.  The  normal 
distance  between  rows  on  either  side  of  a  pleached  allee  is  six  feet  to  eight 
feet.  It  is  most  advisable  to  train  these  plants  to  the  pleached  form 
by  the  use  of  iron  pipe  and  wire.  This  can  be  done  by  a  skilled  gar- 
dener, by  constant  attention  and  the  frequent  use  of  pruning  shears. 

Trees  and  shrubs  for  open  allees  must  meet  the  one  requirement  of 
being  close  growing  and  columnar  in  their  habit.  An  open  allee  may 
be  developed  with  rapid-growing  material  as  well  as  with  slow-grow- 
ing material,  and  the  time  required  is  less  than  two-thirds  as  long  as 
the  time  required  to  develop  a  pleached  allee  of  the  same  height. 
Six  to  ten  years  may  be  required  to  develop  an  open  allee  eight  to  ten 
feet  in  height.  The  scale  of  the  allee,  whether  wide,  with  a  tall  border 


i44  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

on  either  side,  or  narrow,  with  a  lower  border,  governs  the  type  of 
material  which  should  be  selected.  Here  again,  with  such  plants  as 
the  thorns  and  elms,  a  larger  specimen  may  be  used  with  a  high  head, 
and  the  smaller  specimens  may  be  planted  between  and  on  either  side 
to  produce  the  mass  of  foliage  at  the  bottom.  An  illustration  of  this  is 
shown  in  plate  No.  XXVIII  on  Page  190.  This  interesting  open  allee  of 
thorns  and  flowering  dogwood  is  planted  according  to  the  following 
measurements.  The  distance  between  the  middle  line  of  each  row  of 
thorns  is  twenty-two  feet  six  inches.  Each  row  was  originally  planted 
with  high-headed  thorns  at  a  distance  of  four  feet  six  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  Equally  spaced  at  a  distance  approximating  one  foot  six  inches 
apart,  small  specimens  two  feet  to  three  feet  high  were  planted  in  a 
single  row  at  a  distance  of  one  foot  six  inches  on  either  side,  of  the  main 
row  of  thorns.  These  small  thorns  were  for  the  purpose  of  producing  a 
foliage  effect  beginning  at  the  ground  and  extending  into  the  higher 
heads  of  the  larger  thorns.  The  width  between  the  rows  of  flowering 
dogwood  is  eight  feet  and  the  distance  between  each  flowering  dog- 
wood plant  in  each  row  is  eight  feet.  The  width  of  the  walk  in  this 
picture  is  four  feet.  It  is  very  essential  to  use  types  which  have  a 
branching  habit  to  the  extreme  base  of  the  main  trunk  if  a  perfect 
open  allee  is  desired. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  HEAVY  FORMAL  EFFECTS 

A.  BORDER  PLANTING.  This  group  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  composed 
of  those  specimens  which  either  lend  themselves  to  a  natural,  compact 
effect  when  pruned,  or  which  possess  an  even,  close  habit  of  growth, 
fitting  them  particularly  for  formal  effects.  Plants  used  for  this 
purpose  should  not  be  those  which  have  a  tendency  to  sucker  and  to 
make  any  indifferent  growths  in  different  directions. 

Acer  saccharinum  pyramidale  Hibiscus  syriacus 

Pyramidal  Silver  Maple  Rose  of  Sharon 

Acer  saccharum  monumentale  Juniperus  communis  hibernica 

Columnar  Sugar  Maple  Irish  Juniper 

Betula  alba  fastigiata  Juniperus  communis  suedca 

Pyramidal  White  Birch  Swedish  Juniper 

Carpinus  betulus  Juniperus  virginiana 

European  Hornbeam  Red  Cedar 

Catalpa  bungei  Juniperus  virginiana  cannarti 

Round-leaved  Catalpa  Columnar  Tufted  Cedar 

Cercidiphyllum  japonicum  Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 

Kadsura  Tree  Blue  Virginia  Cedar 


PLANTS  FOR  HEAVY  FORMAL  EFFECTS  145 

Juniperus  virginiana  schotti  Populus  nigra  italica 

Schott's  Red  Cedar  Lombardy  Poplar 

Lonicera  tatarica  Quercus  robur  fastigiata 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle  English  Oak 

Picea  excelsa  pyramidalis  Sciadopitys  verticillata 

Pyramidal  Norway  Spruce  Umbrella  Pine 

Populus  alba  pyramidalis  Thuja  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

Bolle's  Poplar  Pyramidal  Arborvitae 

B.  TOPIARY  WORK  AND  CLOSE  SHEARING.  The  plants  in  these  two 
groups  (a  and  b)  are  selected  because  they  will  adapt  themselves,  with 
careful  attention,  to  close  shearing  and  interesting  topiary  work.  There 
are  many  plants  which  if  sheared  closely  do  not  produce  any  effect  of 
foliage  until  they  have  recovered  from  the  pruning.  All  these  speci- 
mens, however,  can  be  sheared  and  still  retain  a  mass  foliage  effect. 

! 

a.  Evergreen: 

Buxus  (all  sorts)  Pinus  cembra 

Boxwood  Swiss  Stone  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  nootkatensis  Pinus  densiflora  umbraculifera 

Yellow  Cedar  Dwarf  Japanese  Red  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  obtusa  nana  Pinus  montana 

Dwarf  Japanese  Cypress  Swiss  Mountain  Pine 

Ilex  crenata  Pinus  montana  mughus 

Japanese  Holly  Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 

Picea  excelsa  Taxus  cuspidata 

Norway  Spruce  Japanese  Yew 

Picea  orientalis  Taxus  cuspidata  nana 

Oriental  Spruce  Japanese  Yew 

Tsuga  canadensis 
Canadian  Hemlock 

b.  Deciduous: 

Acer  campestre  Crataegus  crus-galli 

European  Cork  Maple  Cockspur  Thorn 

Acer  platanoides  globosum  Crataegus  oxycantha 

Globe  Norway  Maple  May  Thorn 

Berberis  thunbergi  Evonymus  alatus 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Cork-barked  Burning  Bush 

Carpinus  betulus  Ilex  glabra 

European  Hornbeam  Inkberry 

Carpinus  betulus  globosa  Ligustrum  ibota 

Globe  Hornbeam  Japanese  Privet 

Catalpa  bignonioides  nana  Ligustrum  vulgare 

Dwarf  Indian  Bean  European  Privet 

Cornus  paniculata  Viburnum  opulus  nanum 

Grey  Dogwood  Dwarf  Bush  Cranberry 
Viburnum  prunifolium 
Black  Haw 


146  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

C.  GROWING  IN  TUBS.     One  of  the  most  successful  sources  of 
obtaining  refinement  of  detail  in  formal  work  is  through  the  use  of 
plants  grown  in  tubs.     These  are  particularly  adapted  to  terraces,  areas 
around  pools,  and  places  where  plants  must  be  trained  for  a  specific 
detailed  effect,  and  oftentimes  cannot  be  planted  in  the  ground  at  the 
place  where  the  effect  is  desired. 

Abelia  grandiflora  Hydrangea  opuloides  otaksa 

Hybrid  Abelia  Hydrangea 

Agapanthus  umbellatus  f,agfrstroemia  indica 

Blue  Lily-of-the-Nile  Crape  Myrtle 

Allamanda  (in  variety)  Laurus  nobilis 

Allamanda  Vine  Bay  Tree 

Aucuba  japonica  Musa  ensete 

Japanese  Laurel  Abyssinian  Banana 

Bougainvillea  (in  variety)  Nerium  (in  variety) 

Paper  Flower  Oleander 

Buxus  (many  sorts)  Pyracantha  coccinea  lalandi 

Boxwood  Evergreen  Thorn 

Caryopteris  incana  Thuja  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

Blue  Spirea  Pyramidal  Arborvitae 

Eleagnus  pungens  Tabernaemontana  (in  variety) 

Bronze  Oleaster  Crape  Jasmine 

Evonymus  japonicus  Trained  fruit  trees 

Evergreen  Evonymus  (all  sorts) 

Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis  Vitex  agnus-castus 

Chinese  Hibiscus  Chaste  Tree 

D.  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  ALLEES.    All  plants  which  are  adapted 
to  allee  effects  must  be  of  a  type  which  will  respond  to  the  operations 
of  severe  pruning.     Those  plants  in  Group  a  must  have  a  special 
adaptation  for  a  spreading  habit  of  growth  and  yet  a  compact  habit  of 
growth.     They  must  be  such  plants  as  will  retain  their  foliage  during  a 
considerable  period  in  order  to  produce  and  maintain  the  pleached 
allee  effect.     The  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  shown  in 
Group  b  of  this  list  are  all  adapted  to  types  of  open  allee  developments 
on  different  scales,  to  be  in  keeping  with  the  general  landscape  effect. 

a.     Pleached 

Acer  campestre  Corylus  maxima 

European  Cork  Maple  Filbert 

Carpinus  caroliniana  Crataegus  oxycantha 

American  Hornbeam  May  Thorn 

Carpinus  betulus  Fagus  sylvatica 

European  Hornbeam  European  Beech 


PLANTS  FOR  HEAVY  FORMAL  EFFECTS 


Quercus  laurifolia  (South  of  Washington) 

Laurel  Oak 
Rhamnus  cathartica 

Common  Buckthorn 


Salix  pentandra 

Laurel-leaved  Willow 
Ulmus  campestris 

English  Elm 


b.    Not  pleached  (Open  Alices). 
i.  Deciduous: 

Acer  saccharinum  pyramidale 

Pyramidal  Silver  Maple 
Acer  saccharum  monumentalt 

Columnar  Sugar  Maple 
Betula  alba  fastigiata 

Pyramidal  White  Birch 
Crataegus  oxycantha 

May  Thorn 
Larix  leptolepsis 

Japanese  Larch 
Populus  nigra  italica 

Lombardy  Poplar 


Quercus  robur  fastigiata 

English  Oak 
Sorbus  quercifolia 

Oak-leaved  Mountain  Ash 
Taxodium  distichum 

Bald  Cypress 
Taxus  baccata  fastigiata 

Irish  Yew 
Ulmus  foliacea  wheatleyi 

Wheatley's  Cornish  Elm 
Ulmus  glabra  fastigiata 

Columnar  Elm 


2.  Evergreen: 

Abies  brachyphytta 

Nikko  Fir 
Juniperus  excelsa  stricta 

Slender  Greek  Juniper 
Juniperus  virginiana  schotti 

Schott's  Red  Cedar 
Picea  excelsa  columnaris 

Columnar  Norway  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  pyramidalis 

Pyramidal  Norway  Spruce 


Picea  omorika 

Servian  Spruce 
Thuja  occidentalis  lutea 

Oriental  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  wareana 

Siberian  Arborvitae 
Thuja  orientalis  (northern  grown) 

Oriental  Arborvitae 
Thuja  plicata 

Western  Arborvitae 


CHAPTER  XVII 
PLANTS  FOR  NATURAL,  INFORMAL  EFFECTS 

As  CONTRASTED  with  plants  adapted  to  heavy  or  compact  formal 
effects  the  plants  of  this  group  have  a  more  open,  looser  habit  of 
growth.  They  are  apt  to  be  not  quite  as  refined  in  character  in  some 
instances,  and  they  are  not  required  to  produce  the  neat  line  of  foliage 
which  are  part  of  the  more  formal  designs. 

It  is  difficult  to  define  clearly,  and  to  specify,  what  plants  are  to  be 
used  in  informal  effects.  At  the  same  time,  a  few  standard  kinds  of 
plants  to  be  used  in  the  border  plantations  of  lawns,  in  the  border 
plantations  of  wild  garden  areas  and  informal  garden  areas  should  be 
listed  for  ready  reference.  It  is  much  easier  to  use  some  of  the  plants 
included  in  the  former  list,  especially  those  with  the  more  vigorous, 
open  habit  of  growth,  for  this  type  of  planting,  than  to  use  plants  in- 
cluded in  this  list  for  the  same  purpose  as  those  included  in  the  former 
list.  Most  large  and  small  lawns  which  are  not  developed  on  definite, 
formal  axial  lines,  should  be  bordered  with  plants  of  this  kind. 

The  reader  is  warranted  in  concluding  that  all  plants  not  adapted  for 
use  in  the  preceding  groups  of  plants  for  formal  effects  are  automatic- 
ally placed  in  this  present  group.  It  is  safe  to  select  any  plant  in- 
digenous to  the  locality  and  also  many  of  the  introduced  horticultural 
varieties,  such  as  high-bush  cranberry,  flowering  currant  and  dogwoods. 
Lilacs,  tartarian  honeysuckle,  and  hybrid  rhododendrons,  however,  with 
greater  refinement  of  foliage  and  of  bloom,  on  the  other  hand,  are 
obviously  of  more  value  in  the  more  formal  plantings. 

Collected  stock  is  of  great  value  for  natural,  informal  effects.  To 
reproduce  nature  and  her  group  effects  should  be  the  object  of  natural, 
informal  planting.  A  natural  planting  impresses  the  observer  as  does 
nature  untouched  by  the  hand  of  the  designer,  and  this  is  a  most 
difficult  effect  to  obtain  artificially. 

LIST  OF   PLANTS   FOR  NATURAL,   INFORMAL    EFFECTS 

It  is  difficult  to  define  the  effects  which  it  is  intended  to  produce 
through  the  use  of  plants  included  in  this  list.  In  general,  these 

148 


PLANTS  FOR  NATURAL,  INFORMAL  EFFECTS       149 

plants  are  selected  because  they  are  somewhat  irregular  in  outline, 
loose  in  habit  and  texture  of  growth,  and  are  not  adapted  to  producing 
the  neat  lines  of  foliage  required  in  formal  development. 

Amelanchier  oblongifolia  Ptelea  trifoliata 

Shad-bush  Hop  Tree 

Amelanchier  rotundifolia  Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

June  Berry  Native  Varieties 

Chionanthus  virginica  Rhus  (in  variety) 

White  Fringe  Sumac 

Cornus  (in  variety)  Ribes  (in  variety) 

Dogwood  Flowering  Currant 

Deutzia  (in  variety)  Robinia  pseudacacia 

Deutzia  Black  Locust 

Diervilla  (in  variety)  Rosa  rugosa 

Weigela  Japanese  Rose 

Forsythia  suspensa  Salix  babylonica 

Drooping  Golden  Bell  Weeping  Willow 

Hippophae  rhamnoides  Sambucus  canadensis 

Sea  Buckthorn  American  Elder 

Laburnum  vulgare  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Golden  Chain  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

Lonicera  fragrantissima  Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle  Snowberry 

Philadelphus  grandifiorus  Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Large-flowered  Mock  Orange  Indian  Currant 

Physocarpus  opulifolius  Tamarix  gallica 

Ninebark  French  Tamarisk 

Prunus  avium  plena  Viburnum  opulus 

European  Double-flowering  Cherry  High-bush  Cranberry 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

LOW-GROWING  PLANTS  ALONG  THE  INNER  SIDE  OF 
CURVING  ROADWAYS  AND  AT  ENTRANCES 

PLANTS  which  are  selected  for  use  in  this  group  must  have  a  normally 
low-growing  habit.  In  general,  their  maximum  height  should  ap- 
proximate not  more  than  five  to  six  feet. 

If  the  eventual  height  of  these  plants  is  to  be  greater  than  this,  they 
should  be  of  such  types  as  will  lend  themselves  readily  to  pruning  and 
still  retain  their  natural  outlines. 

On  many  private  estates,  at  the  sharp  curves  of  entrance  drives  and 
on  either  side  of  the  main  entrance,  safety  of  traffic  demands  that  an 
open  view  be  preserved  in  order  to  avoid  accidents.  It  becomes  an 
important  question  in  the  development  of  such  plans  to  decide  upon 
material  which  should  be  selected  for  this  purpose.  If  the  degree  of 
care  which  this  material  is  to  receive  in  the  years  subsequent  to  its 
original  planting  is  that  ordinarily  given  by  an  expert  gardener,  the 
designer  may  select  many  taller-growing  species  of  shrubs,  which,  under 
this  expert  care,  can  be  kept  within  the  desired  limits  of  growth.  For 
those  who  wish  to  be  perfectly  safe  in  their  selection,  material  included 
in  this  list  represents  the  general  range  of  the  important  genera  and 
species  which  are  available. 

There  are  many  locations  where  high  planting  as  a  part  of  the 
general  design  is  more  desirable.  In  such  instances  a  vista  formed  by 
using  a  group  of  lower  shrubs  can  be  used.  If  higher  shrubs  are  desirable 
as  a  part  of  the  design  it  is  sometimes  possible  to  preserve  the  open 
views  by  setting  the  tall  shrubs  farther  back  from  the  sides  of  the  drive. 

The  fragrant  honeysuckle  is  a  good  substitute  where  one  might  other- 
wise use  types  such  as  the  tartarian  honeysuckle.  The  pink  weigela 
is  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  other,  coarser-growing  types  of  weigelas. 

LIST  OF  LOW-GROWING  PLANTS  ALONG  THE  INNER  SIDE 
OF  CURVING  ROADWAYS  AND  AT  ENTRANCES 

The  plants  in  this  group  are  selected  because  of  their  low-growing 
habit.  Many  other  specimens  may  be  used,  which  under  the  care  of 

150 


LOW-GROWING  PLANTS  151 

an  expert  gardener  can  be  kept  within  definite  bounds.  Where  open 
views  are  essential  and  expert  care  is  lacking,  the  plants  indicated 
in  these  groups  should  be  used. 


A.     Evergreen: 


Andromeda  polifolia 

Wild  Rosemary 
Chamae -daphne  calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Evonymus  radicans  carrieri 

Carrier's  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Evonymus  radicans  vegetus 

Scarlet-fruited  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Juniperus  communis  depressa 

Dwarf  Juniper 
Juniperus  horizontalis 

Trailing  Juniper 
Juniperus  sabina  tamariscifolia 

Tamarisk-leaved  Savin 
Juniperus  virginiana  tripartita 

Spreading  Red  Cedar 
Kalmia  angustifolia 

Sheep  Laurel  (except  clay  or  lime  soil) 

Yucca  flaccida 
Drooping-leaved  Adam's  Needle 


Mahonia  repens 

Creeping  Mahonia 
Picea  excelsa  gregoriana 

Gregory's  Dwarf  Norway  Spruce 
Picea  excelsa  nana 

Dwarf  Norway  Spruce 
Pieris  floribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 
Taxus  baccata  repandens 

Spreading  English  Yew 
Taxus  cuspidata  brevifolia 

Short-leaved  Japanese  Yew 
Thuja  occidental^  globosa 

Globe  Arborvitae 
Thuja  occidentalis  (Little  Gem) 

Little  Gem  Arborvitae 


Yucca  filamentosa 
Adam's  Needle 


B.     Deciduous: 

Amorpha  canescens 

Lead  Plant 
Ceanothus  americanus 

New  Jersey  Tea 
Celastrus  orbiculatus 

Japanese  Bittersweet 
Deutzia  gracilis 

Slender  Deutzia 
Deutzia  lemoinei 

Lemoine's  Deutzia 
Deutzia  rosea 

Dwarf  Pink  Deutzia 
Diervilla  trifida 

Bush  Honeysuckle 
Evonymus  obovatus 

Running  Strawberry  Bush 
Itea  virginica 

Virginian  Willow 


Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Japanese  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  spinosa  alberti 

Large-fruited  Honeysuckle 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bay  berry 
Rosa  Carolina 

Carolina  Rose 
Rosa  setigera 

Prairie  Rose 
Rosa  spinosissima  altaica 

Scotch  Rose 
Rosa  wichuraiana 

Memorial  Rose 
Viburnum,  opulus  nanum 

Dwarf  Bush  Cranberry 
Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 
Yellowroot 


CHAPTER  XIX 

TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  DIFFERENT  FLOWERING 

EFFECTS 

PERHAPS  the  most  important  use  of  plants  is  for  the  effect  of  the 
flowers.  At  least  ninety  per  cent,  of  those  who  develop  landscape 
plantations  have  foremost  in  their  minds  the  effect  that  is  to  be 
produced  by  the  flowers  on  the  trees  and  shrubs  grown  in  the 
plantation,  whether  it  be  on  a  large  estate  or  on  a  small  home  lot. 
There  are  many  other  valuable  characteristics,  however,  among 
which  are  the  fruiting  and  the  foliage  effects.  All  of  these,  however, 
are  entirely  secondary  to  this  one  consideration  concerning  the 
flowers. 

The  first  thought  in  the  use  of  shrubs  for  this  purpose  is  to  obtain 
flowers.  It  is  only  after  some  study  and  some  thought  on  the  subject 
that  one  realizes  that  shrubs  may  be  used  for  many  different  flowering 
effects.  We  may  use  trees  and  shrubs  to  produce  flowers  at  certain 
definite  seasons,  or  we  may  use  trees  and  shrubs  to  produce  flowers  of 
different  colours  at  different  seasons.  The  owner  of  the  average  home 
occupies  his  residence  throughout  the  entire  year.  There  is  a  group 
of  people,  however,  owning  both  large  and  small  homes,  who  occupy 
two  or  more  homes  each  year,  depending  upon  the  season.  They 
usually  spend  the  spring  and  fall  months  at  their  residence,  and  hot 
summer  months  at  a  country  home,  either  at  the  seashore  or  among  the 
mountains.  The  first  home  owner  must  be  provided  with  trees  and 
shrubs  which  will  produce  as  nearly  as  possible  a  flowering  effect 
throughout  the  growing  season,  beginning  with  the  shrubs  which 
produce  flowers  before  the  leaves  appear,  such  as  the  golden  bell  and 
the  flowering  plums,  and  ending  with  the  shrubs  such  as  altheas  and  the 
hydrangeas  which  produce  flowers  in  the  summer  months.  The 
family  that  occupies  both  a  permanent  residence  and  a  country 
home,  however,  must  have  trees  and  shrubs  surrounding  the  former 
which  produce  flowers  during  the  spring  and  during  the  late  summer 
and  fall  months;  and  at  their  summer  home  they  must  have,  so  far  as 

152 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  FLOWERING  EFFECTS   153 

possible,  the  summer-flowering  types  of  trees  and  shrubs.  For  this 
reason,  various  groups  have  been  outlined  to  embrace  trees  and  shrubs 
producing  flowers  in  the  early  spring  before  the  leaves  appear,  and 
producing  flowers  in  the  early  spring  after  the  leaves  appear,  such  as 
the  spirea  and  the  lilac;  producing  flowers  during  the  summer  months, 
such  as  the  weigela  and  the  mock  orange;  and  producing  flowers 
during  the  late  summer  and  autumn  months,  such  as  the  rose  of  Sharon 
and  the  hydrangea.  It  is  therefore  important  in  connection  with  our 
various  plantations  of  trees  and  shrubs  to  consider  specifically  the 
period  during  the  blooming  season,  when  the  maximum  effect  of  flowers 
is  desired. 

The  second  important  consideration,  in  designing  plantings  of  trees 
and  shrubs,  is  the  colour  of  the  flowers.  Flowering  trees  and  shrubs, 
with  respect  to  the  colour  of  their  flowers,  may  be  divided  into  four 
definite  groups:  those  which  produce  flowers  in  the  shades  of  red  and 
pink,  such  as  pink-flowering  dogwood,  flowering  peach,  and  the 
flowering  crab;  those  which  produce  yellow  flowers,  such  as  the  Scotch 
broom,  yellow  jasmine,  and  the  golden  bell;  those  which  produce  white 
flowers,  such  as  the  white  fringe,  hawthorn,  hydrangea,  and  elders; 
and  those  which  produce  blue  flowers  (the  smallest  list  of  all),  such  as 
the  blue  spirea,  blue  rose  of  Sharon,  and  blue  lilacs.  Each  of  these 
groups  may  be  divided,  as  shown  by  the  tabulations,  into  early- 
flowering  and  late  summer-flowering  sorts.  The  entire  discussion 
concerning  the  colour  of  the  flowers  in  the  average  planting  is  more 
theoretical  than  practical;  but  in  the  other  plantations,  where  there 
is  sufficient  space  to  obtain  masses  of  flowering  effects  during  the 
blooming  period,  considerable  study  should  be  given  to  the  colour  of 
the  flowers. 

The  small  home  owner  in  general  is  much  more  interested  in  his 
ability  to  procure  trees  and  shrubs  which  will  give  him  a  continuous 
succession  of  bloom.  This  also  is  not  always  practical;  but  there  is  a 
group  of  standard  shrubs,  the  use  of  which  will  provide  as  continuous 
bloom  as  can  be  obtained  through  the  combination  of  any  group  of 
shrubs.  It  must  be  remembered  that  some  varieties  of  shrubs  will 
flower  at  a  slightly  later  period  than  other  varieties,  and  for  this 
reason  it  is  quite  possible  to  obtain  what  seems  to  be  a  continuous 
series  of  bloom.  The  most  prolific  blooming  shrubs,  however,  seem 
to  flower  during  the  months  of  May  and  June.  During  the  latter 
part  of  July  we  have  but  a  few  shrubs,  such  as  the  hydrangea,  the 


i54  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

rose  of  Sharon,  and  the  groundsel  tree,  which  will  produce  flower 
effects. 

LIST  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  DIFFERENT  FLOWERING 

EFFECTS 

A.  PRODUCING  FLOWERS  IN  EARLY  SPRING  BEFORE  THE  LEAVES 
APPEAR.     The  trees  and  shrubs  included  in  this  group  produce,  when 
in  bloom,  a  very  interesting  colour  note  in  a  landscape  which  has  been 
uninteresting  during  the  winter  months.     Most  of  these  plants  pro- 
duce their  best  effect  when  used  in  small  masses;  their  effect  in  large 
masses  is  increased  only  in  proportion  to  the  extensiveness  of  the 
landscape    setting    in    which    they    are    planted.     Many    interesting 
colour  effects  can  be  produced  by  the  proper  selection  of  plants  from 
this  group. 

Acer  rubrum  Forsythia  (in  variety) 

Red  Maple  Golden  Bell 

Amelanchier  oblongifolia  Hamamelis  japonica 

Shad-bush  Japanese  Witch  Hazel 

Azalea  lutea  Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Flame-coloured  Azalea  Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 

Azalea  nudiflora  Lonicera  standishi 

Pinkster  Flower  Standish's  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Azalea  vaseyi  Magnolia  (Asiatic  varieties) 

Carolina  Azalea  Magnolia 

Benzoin  aestivale  Mahonia  aquifolium 

Spice  Bush  Oregon  Grape 

Cercis  canadensis  Prunus  (in  variety) 

Red-bud  Japanese  Flowering  Cherry 

Chaenomeles  japonica  Prunus  triloba 

Japanese  Quince  Flowering  Plum 

Cornus  florida  Salix  caprea 

Flowering  Dogwood  Goat  Willow 

Daphne  cneorum  Spiraea  arguta 

Garland  Flower  Hybrid  Snow  Garland 

Spiraea  prunifolia  flore  plena 
Bridal  Wreath 

B.  PRODUCING  FLOWERS  IN  EARLY  SPRING  AFTER  THE  LEAVES  AP- 
PEAR.    Through  a  careful  selection  of  plants  the  season  of  bloom  from 
flowering  trees  and  shrubs  can  be  made  almost  continuous.     There 
are  many  trees  and  shrubs  which  flower  during  the  early  spring  after 
the  leaves  appear.     Only  those  trees  and  shrubs  which  produce  an 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  FLOWERING  EFFECTS   155 

abundance  of  flowers,  effective  against  a  background  of  green  foliage, 
are  given  here. 


Aesculus  (in  variety) 

Horse-chestnut 
Azalea  japonica 

Japanese  Azalea 
Caragana  arborescens 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub 
Chionanthus  virginica 

White  Fringe 
Cornus  alternifolia 

Alternate-leaved  Dogwood 
Cornus  stolonifera 

Red  Osier  Cornel 
Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Thorn 
Deutzia  (in  variety) 

Deutzia 
Exochorda  grandiflora 

Pearl  Bush 
Halesia  Carolina 

Silver  Bell 
Lonicera  bella 

Zabel's  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  morrowi 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 


Lonicera  tatarica 
Tartarian  Honeysuckle 

Magnolia  glauca 

Swamp  Magnolia 
Pyrus  (in  variety) 

Crab 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

White  Kerria 
Ribes  aureum 

Flowering  Currant 
Rosa  cinnamomea 

Cinnamon  Rose 
Sambucus  racemosa 

Red-berried  Elder 
Spiraea  arguta 

Hybrid  Snow  Garland 
Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Syringa  (in  variety) 

Lilac 
Fiburnum  prunifolium 

Black  Haw 
Viburnum  tomentosum 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 


C.  PRODUCING  FLOWERS  DURING  EARLY  SUMMER.  The  largest 
group  of  flowering  trees  and  shrubs  is  that  containing  the  types  which 
flower  during  the  early  summer  months.  Carefully  selected  groupings 
of  these  plants  may  produce  a  continuous  flower  effect  through  June 
and  July. 


Astilbe  japonica 

Japanese  Astilbe 
Catalpa  (in  variety) 

Indian  Bean 
Cladrastis  lutea 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus  alba  sibirica 

Siberian  Dogwood 
Cornus  paniculata 

Grey  Dogwood 
Diervilla  hybrida 

Hybrid  Weigela 
Hydrangea  arborescens  sterilis 

Hills  of  Snow 


Kalmia  latifolia 

Mountain  Laurel 
Koelreuteria  paniculata 

Varnish  Tree 
Ligustrum  ibota 

Japanese  Privet 
Philadelphus  (in  variety) 

Mock  Orange 
Rhododendron  catawbiense  hybridum 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Rhus  cotinus 

Smoke  Bush 

Robinia  pseudacacia 
Black  Locust 


i56  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Roses  (in  variety)  Viburnum  cassinoides 

Roses  Withe-rod 

Rubus  deliciosus  Viburnum  dentatum 

Rocky  Mountain  Flowering  Raspberry  Arrow-wood 

Sambucus  canadensis  Viburnum  lentago 

American  Elder  Sheep  Berry 

Spiraea  salicifolia  Viburnum  opulus 

Meadow-sweet  High-bush  Cranberry 

Syringa  japonica  Viburnum  sieboldi 

Tree  Lilac  Siebold's  Viburnum 

Viburnum  carlesi  Xanthoceras  sorbifolia 

Korean  Viburnum  Chinese  Flowering  Chestnut 

D.  PRODUCING    FLOWERS    DURING    LATE    SUMMER   AND    EARLY 
AUTUMN.     There  are  comparatively  few  trees  and  shrubs  which  pro- 
duce an  interesting  flowering  effect  during  the  late  summer  months 
and  during  the  early  autumn.     This  group  is  composed  of  those  plants 
whose  flowers  are  effective  in  the  landscape. 

Baccharis  halimifolia  Lespedeza  japonicum 

Groundsel  Bush  White-flowering  Desmodium 

Buddleia  veitchiana  Lespedeza  sieboldi 

Summer  Lilac  Siebold's  Desmodium 

Clethra  alnifolia  Oxydendrum  arboreum 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  Sourwood  * 

Elsholtzia  stauntoni  Potentilla  fruticosa 

Elsholtzia  Shrubby  Cinquefoil 

Hamamelis  virginiana  Sorbaria  arborea  glabrata 

Witch  Hazel  Chinese  Mountain  Ash  Spirea 

Hibiscus  syriacus  Spiraea  billardi 

Rose  of  Sharon  Billiard's  Spirea 

Hydrangea  arborescens  Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  walerer 

Wild  Hydrangea  Crimson  Spirea 

Hydrangea  paniculata  Spiraea  callosa  alba 

Panicled  Hydrangea  Fortune's  White  Spirea 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora  Stewartia  pentagyna 

Large-flowered  Hydrangea  Alleghany  Stewartia 

Hypericum  (in  variety)  Tamarix  (in  variety) 

St.  John's  Wort  Tamarisk 

Vitex  agnus-castus 
Chaste  Tree 

E.  PRODUCING  FLOWERS  IN  SHADES  OF  RED  AND  PINK.     In  the 
development  of  interesting  colour  combinations  for  the  flowers  in 
landscape  planting  some  definite  association  of  colour  schemes  should 
be  listed  to  assist  one  more  readily  in  the  selection  of  plants  for  vary- 
ing colour  effects.     All  plants  in  the  following  group  produce  flowers 
in  shades  of  red  and  pink.     The  early-flowering  sorts  are  shown  in 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  FLOWERING  EFFECTS   157 

Group  a  and  the  late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts  are  shown  in 
Group  b. 

a.  Early-flowering  sorts'. 

Azalea  nudifiora  Prunus  persica  vulgaris 

Pinkster  Flower  Common  Peach 

Azalea  vaseyi  Prunus  subhirtella  (in  variety) 

Carolina  Azalea  Japanese  Flowering  Cherry 

Cercis  canadensis  Prunus  tomentosa 

Red-bud  Japanese  Plum 

Cornus  ftorida  rubra  Pyrus  angustifolia 

Red-flowering  Dogwood  Narrow-leaved  Crab 

Kalmia  angustifolia  Pyrus  coronaria 

Sheep  Laurel  Wild  Crab 

Magnolia  soulangeana  Pyrus  fioribunda 

Soulange's  Magnolia  Flowering  Crab 

Prunus  besseyi  Pyrus  halliana  parkmani 

Western  Sand  Cherry  Parkman's  Crab 

Prunus  japonica  (in  variety)  Rhodora  canadensis 

Flowering  Almond  Rhodora 

"S"*'  '  • 

b.  Late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts'. 

Deutzia  rosea  Pyrus  ioensis  bechteli 

Dwarf  Pink  Deutzia  Bechtel's  Crab 

Diervilla  florida  Roses  (in  variety) 

Rose-coloured  Weigela  Roses 

Kalmia  latifolia  Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  waterer 

Mountain  Laurel  Crimson  Spirea 

Spiraea  tomentosa 
Hardhack 

F.  PRODUCING  YELLOW  FLOWERS.  Until  the  trees  and  shrubs  pro- 
ducing yellow  flowers  are  grouped  the  reader  can  hardly  appreciate 
how  great  is  the  wealth  of  this  material.  The  group  is  divided,  as  are 
the  preceding  groups  in  the  chapter,  into  the  early-flowering  types 
and  the  late-flowering  types. 

a.     Early-flowering  sorts: 

Benzoin  aestivale  Cytisus  scoparius 

Spice  Bush  .          Scotch  Broom 

Berberis  (in  variety)  Elaeagnus  angustifolia 

Barberry  Russian  Olive 

Cornus  mas  Elaeagnus  longipes 

Cornelian  Cherry  Japanese  Oleaster 

Corylopsis  pauciflora  Forsythia  (in  variety) 

Japanese  Flowering  Hazel  Golden  Bell 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Hamamelis  japonica 
Japanese  Witch  Hazel 

Jasminum  nudiflorum 
Naked-flowered  Jasmine 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 


Ribes  aureum 

Flowering  Currant 
Salix  caprea 

Goat  Willow 
Salix  discolor 

Pussy  Willow 


b. 


Late  spring  and  summer-flowering  sorts : 

Azalea  lutea 

Flame-coloured  Azalea 
Caragana  arborescens 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub 


Koelreuteria  paniculata 

Varnish  Tree 
Laburnum  vulgare 

Golden  Chain 


Colutea  arborescens 

Bladder  Senna 
Genista  tinctoria 

Dyer's  Greenweed 
Hypericum  (in  variety) 

St.  John's  Wort 
Kerria  japonica 

Globe  Flower 


Potentilla  fruticosa 

Shrubby  Cinquefoil 
Sophora  japonica 

Japanese  Pagoda  Tree 
Rosafoetida  (variety  harisoni) 

Harrison's  Yellow  Rose 
Rosa  hugonis 

Father  Hugo's  Rose 


G.  PRODUCING  WHITE  FLOWERS.  This  group  of  plants  is  sub- 
divided in  the  same  way  as  are  the  two  preceding  groups,  and  consists 
only  of  those  plants  producing  white  flowers  in  sufficient  quantity  and 
size  to  be  an  effective  element  in  the  landscape  planting. 


a. 


b. 


Early-flowering  sorts: 

Azalea  viscosa 

Swamp  Azalea 
Chionanthus  virginica 

White  Fringe 
Cornus  (in  variety) 

Dogwood 
Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Thorn 
Halesia  Carolina 

Silver  Bell 
Lonicera  morrowi 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 


Lonicera  tatarica  alba 

White  Tartarian  Honeysuckle 
Magnolia  stellata 

Starry  Magnolia 
Prunus  (in  variety) 

Plum 
Spiraea  arguta 

Hybrid  Snow  Garland 
Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Viburnum  (in  variety) 

Viburnum 


Aesculus  parviflora 
Dwarf  Horse-chestnut 


Late  spring  and  summer-How Bering  sorts: 

Hydrangea  (in  variety) 

Hydrangea 
Cladrastis  lutea  Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Yellow-wood  Privet 

Clethra  alnifolia  Philadelphus  (in  variety) 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  Mock  Orange 

Deutzia  (in  variety)  Physocarpus  opulifolius. 

Deutzia  Ninebark 


PLATE  XXIV.  An  interior  view  of  a  pleached  allee  eight  years  after  trans- 
planting. Note  the  spacing  of  the  larger  plants  of  the  European  cork  maple 
at  intervals  of  three  feet,  with  "fillers"  between  each  two  of  the  larger  trees. 
Compare  with  Plate  No.  XXVII  on  page  175  for  the  exterior  view.  Open- 
ings have  been  cut  in  the  top  of  this  allee  to  produce  interesting  spots  of 
sunlight  on  the  walk.  (See  page  146,  group  XVI-D-a,  also  frontispiece) 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  FLOWERING  EFFECTS  159 


Rhododendron  (white) 
Rhododendron 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
White  Kerria 

Robinia  pseudacacia 
Black  Locust 


Rosa  multiflora 

Japanese  Climbing  Rose 
Rosa  spinosissima 

Scotch  Rose 
Sambucus  canadensis 

American  Elder 


Rosa  alba  Sambucus  racemosa 

White-flowered  Rose  Red-berried  Elder 

Rosa  lucida  alba  Spiraea  prunifolia 

White-flowered  Glossy  Rose  Bridal  Wreath 

Stewartia  pentagyna 
Alleghany  Stewartia 

H.  PRODUCING  BLUE  FLOWERS.  The  group  of  plants  producing 
blue  flowers  is  extremely  limited.  A  few  plants  which  are  shown  in 
this  list  are  extremely  interesting  for  their  flowering  effect  and  with 
the  exception  of  the  rose  of  Sharon  and  the  lilac,  many  of  them  are 
seldom  used. 


Amorpha  fruticosa 

False  Indigo 
Buddleia  veitchiana 

Summer  Lilac 
Caryopteris  incana 

Blue  Spirea 
Elsholtzia  stauntoni 

Elsholtzia 


Hibiscus  syriacus  ardens 

Blue  Rose  of  Sharon 
Paulownia  tomentosa 

Empress  Tree 
Syringa  vulgaris,  President  Grevy 

Double  Blue  Lilac 
Vitex  agnus-castus 

Chaste  Tree 


I.  CONTINUOUS  BLOOM  FROM  TWELVE  SHRUBS.  The  reader  should 
be  able  to  refer  to  some  list  such  as  the  following,  which  will  provide 
him  with  a  ready  reference  for  the  selection  of  shrubs  giving  a  succession 
of  bloom.  The  plants  in  this  group,  if  properly  arranged,  will  develop 
an  interesting  succession  of  bloom  from  the  early  spring  until  the  late 
fall. 


Chaenomeles  japonica 

Japanese  Quince 
Diervilla  hybrida 

Hybrid  Weigela 
Forsythia  suspensa 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 
Hibiscus  syriacus 

Rose  of  Sharon 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 

Large-flowered  Hydrangea 
Lonicera  tatarica 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle 


Philadelphus  coronarius 

Common  Mock  Orange 
Sorbaria  arborea  glabrata 

Chinese  Mountain  Ash  Spirea 
Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  waterer 

Crimson  Spirea 
Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Syringa  vulgaris  hybrida 

Hybrid  Lilac 
Fiburnum  americanum 

American  High-bush  Cranberry 


CHAPTER  XX 

PLANTS  VALUABLE  FOR  THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF 

.   THEIR  FRUIT 

THE  charm  of  many  landscape  plantings  during  fall  and  early 
winter  months  is  due  almost  entirely  to  the  interesting  effects  produced 
by  the  fruit  of  various  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines.  Too  little  attention 
is  given  to  the  landscape  value  of  plants  because  of  their  fruiting 
characteristics.  It  is  the  general  impression  that  plants  for  landscape 
value  have  completed  their  greatest  purpose  when  they  have  produced 
their  foliage  and  flowers.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  instances  may  be 
common  within  the  recollection  of  everyone  where  some  interesting 
touch  of  colour  in  the  landscape  has  been  noticed  and  on  further  study 
has  been  found  due  entirely  to  the  colour  effect  coming  from  a  mass  of 
hanging  fruit. 

To  those  people  who  occupy  their  permanent  homes  only  during  the 
fall  and  winter  months,  and  whose  greatest  enjoyment  from  their  land- 
scape plantings  should  be  produced  by  the  fruiting  effects,  this  is  an 
important  problem.  It  is  admitted  that  many  of  our  plants,  such  as  the 
horse-chestnut,  tree  of  heaven,  honey  locust,  and  hackberry,  produce 
fruit  which  because  of  its  littering  habit  is  objectionable.  These 
plants,  however,  are  very  few.  The  list  of  plants  which  produce  fruit 
valuable  because  of  certain  characteristics  such  as  interesting  form 
and  size,  colour  effects,  and  the  ability  to  retain  the  fruit  during  the 
later  winter  months,  includes  many  of  our  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines  that 
are  valuable  for  their  flowering  effects  also.  This  question  is  such  an 
important  one  that  each  of  the  groups  should  be  taken  up  in  an  in- 
dividual discussion.  The  value  of  plants  for  their  fruits  which  attract 
our  many  bird  friends  presents  such  an  interesting  study  that  this  has 
been  taken  up  as  a  distinct  part  of  this  chapter. 

Among  plants  useful  on  the  more  refined  lawn  areas',  where  the  de- 
tailed development  of  landscape  plants  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
features,  there  are  a  number  of  plants,  such  as  the  burning  bush,  cu- 
cumber tree,  and  the  oriental  plane,  representative  of  the  group  pro- 

160 


PLANTS  FOR  FRUIT  CHARACTERISTICS  161 

ducing  fruit  singularly  interesting  and  conspicuous  because  of  its  form. 
There  are  other  trees  such  as  the  Kentucky  coffee  tree,  the  western 
catalpa,  and  the  tulip  tree,  the  fruit  of  which  is  interesting  on  account 
of  its  size. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  characteristics  of  fruit  is  its  colour. 
From  the  clear  white  fruit  of  the  grey  dogwood  to  the  brilliant 
red  fruit  of  the  thorn  there  is  a  wonderful  variation  in  colour  effect 
produced  by  fruits.  The  beauty  fruit,  with  its  brilliant  porcelain- 
blue  berries,  adds  an  interesting  touch  of  colour  to  landscape 
plantings  nearly  as  effective  as  that  of  flowers,  if  not  more  so.  In 
many  of  these  shrubs,  such  as  some  varieties  of  the  thorn,  the  honey- 
suckle, and  the  elder,  the  beautiful  colours  of  the  fruit  against  the 
background  of  green  foliage  are  extremely  effective.  The  great 
majority  of  our  shrubs  retain  their  fruit  for  a  greater  or  less  period 
after  the  leaves  have  fallen.  With  the  first  signs  of  freezing  and  real 
winter  weather  these  fruits  rapidly  wither  and  decay  and  those  which 
are  not  removed  by  the  birds  soon  drop  from  the  plants.  The  fruit 
of  the  elderberries,  roses,  blue  berries,  and  honeysuckles  is  dropped  well 
before  the  middle  of  December,  and  even  as  early  as  the  first  of  Decem- 
ber. In  the  average  winter  the  fruit  of  the  dogwoods,  the  spindle  tree, 
the  snowberry,  and  the  burning  bush  retain  their  interesting  colour 
until  the  early  part  of  January.  Of  this  group  of  plants  there 
are  many  which  retain  their  fruit  well  into  the  winter  months.  The 
Japanese  barberry  and  the  winterberry  or  deciduous  holly  hold  their 
fruit  much  longer  than  the  other  plants,  while  the  brilliantly  coloured 
fruit  of  the  bittersweet,  the  thorn,  and  the  high-bush  cranberry  re- 
mains until  the  really  severe  winter  weather  begins.  From  a  landscape 
point  of  view  there  is  nothing  much  more  effective  in  a  pictorial  com- 
position than  the  brilliantly  coloured  fruit  and  brilliantly  coloured  twigs 
of  many  of  our  trees  and  shrubs  presented  against  a  background  of  snow. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  VALUABLE  FOR  THE  CHARACTERISTICS 

OF  THEIR  FRUIT 

A.  PRODUCING  FRUIT  OF  PECULIARLY  INTERESTING  FORM  OR  SIZE. 
This  group  consists  of  types  of  plants  which  produce  fruit  that  has  a 
landscape  value  on  account  of  its  peculiarly  interesting  form  and  size. 
Practically  all  of  our  trees  and  shrubs  produce  fruit,  but  only  those 
having  fruit  which  is  of  real  landscape  value  are  listed  in  this  and  in 
succeeding  groups. 


162  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Asimina  triloba  Liquidambar  styracifiua 

Paw-Paw  Sweet  Gum 

Catalpa  speciosa  Liriodendron  tulipifera 

Western  Gatalpa  Tulip  Tree 

Cephalanthus  occidentalis  Madura  pomi/era 

Button  Bush  Osage  Orange 

Colutea  arborescens  Magnolia  acuminata 

Bladder  Senna  Cucumber  Tree 

Diospyros  virginiana  Platanus  orientalis 

Persimmon  Oriental  Plane 

Evonymus  atropurpureus  Pyrus  baccata  (in  variety) 

Burning  Bush  Siberian  Flowering  Crab 

Gleditsia  triacanthos  Staphylea  pinnata 

Honey  Locust  European  Bladder-nut 

Gymnocladus  dioica  Staphylea  trifolia 

Kentucky  Coffee  Tree  American  Bladder-nut 
Fruit  Trees  (in  variety) 

B.     PRODUCING  FRUIT  VALUABLE  FOR  ITS  COLOUR  EFFECTS.    The 
colour  effect  of  fruit  may  be  equally  as  effective  as  the  colour  effect  of 

flowers.  Some  fruit  is  effective  as  a  combination  of  colour  against 
the  background  of  green  foliage.  Other  fruit  is  effective  because 
of  its  colour  at  a  season  of  the  year  when  the  foliage  is  gone.  Many 

more  plants  should  be  used  for  the  colour  effect  of  the  fruit  than 
are  now  seen  in  our  landscape  plantings. 

Acer  rubrum  Cornus  stolonifera 

Red  Maple  Red  Osier  Cornel 

Aralia  spinosa  Cotoneaster  dielsiana 

Hercules  Club  Chinese  Cotoneaster 

Berberis  (in  variety)  Cotoneaster  divaricata 

Barberry  Cotoneaster 

Callicarpa  purpurea  Cotoneaster  horizontalis  perpusilla 

Beauty  Fruit  Hybrid  Prostrate  Cotoneaster 

Celastrus  scandens  Cotoneaster  hupehensis 

American  Bittersweet  Cotoneaster 

Chionanthus  virginica  Cotoneaster  multiflora  calocarpa 

White  Fringe  Cotoneaster 

Colutea  arborescens  Cotoneaster  racemiflora 

Bladder  Senna  Cotoneaster 

Cornus  alba  sibirica  Cotoneaster  salicifolia  floccosa. 

Siberian  Dogwood  Cotoneaster 

Cornus  alternifolia  Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Alternate-leaved  Dogwood  Thorn 

Cornus  florida  Eleagnus  longipes 

Flowering  Dogwood  Japanese  Oleaster 

Cornus  paniculata  Evonymus  alatus 

Grey  Dogwood  Cork-barked  Burning  Bush 


163 


Evonymus  americanus 

Strawberry  Bush 
Evonymus  atropurpureus 

Burning  Bush 
Evonymus  europaeus 

European  Spindle  Tree 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Sea  Buckthorn 
Ilex  crenata 

Japanese  Holly 
Ilex  opaca 

American  Holly 
Ilex  verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Privet 
Lonicera  morrowi 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  tatarica. 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bayberry 
Physocarpus  opulifolius 

Ninebark 
Pyracantha  coccinea 

Evergreen  Thorn 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

White  Kerria 
Rhus  glabra 

Smooth  Sumac 


Rhus  typhina 

Staghorn  Sumac 
Rosa  blanda 

Meadow  Rose 
Rosa  multiflora 

Japanese  Climbing  Rose 
Rosa  rubiginosa 

Sweet  Brier 
Rosa  rubrifolia 

Red-leaved  Rose 

Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 
Sambucus  canadensis 

American  Elder 
Sambucus  racemosa 

Red-berried  Elder 
Sorbus  aucuparia 

European  Mountain  Ash 
Staphylea  trifolia 

American  Bladder-nut 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Indian  Currant 
Symplocus  paniculata 

Japanese  Sweet  Leaf 
Faccinium  (in  variety) 

Blueberry 
Viburnum  (in  variety) 

Viburnum 


C.  PRODUCING  FRUIT  VALUABLE  DURING  THE  WINTER  MONTHS. 
The  group  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  retain  interesting  fruit  well  into 
the  winter  months  is  comparatively  limited.  A  few  of  these  plants 
should  be  in  every  landscape  planting  to  give  a  touch  of  colour  and  life 
during  the  dead  winter  months. 


Berberis  (in  variety) 

Barberry 
Celastrus  scandens 

American  Bitter-sweet 
Crataegus  (in  variety) 

Thorn 
Ilex  opaca 

American  Holly 
Ilex  verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum  ibota 

Japanese  Privet 


Ligustrum  vulgare 

European  Privet 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bayberry 
Pyracantha  coccinea 

Evergreen  Thorn 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

White  Kerria 
Rhus  glabra 

Smooth  Sumac 
Rhus  typhina 

Staghorn  Sumac 


164  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Rosa,  blanda  Viburnum  americanum 

Meadow  Rose  American  High  Bush  Cranberry 

Rosa  multifiora  Viburnum  dilatatum 

Japanese  Climbing  Rose  Japanese  Bush  Cranberry 

Rosa  rugosa  Viburnum  opulus 

Japanese  Rose  High-bush  Cranberry 


PLANTS  USED  FOR  ATTRACTING  BIRDS 

It  is  often  advisable,  in  the  making  of  landscape  plantings,  to  use 
trees  and  shrubs  which  possess  ornamental  values  from  a  landscape 
viewpoint,  and  which  also  produce  fruit  that  attracts  various  species  of 
birds.  It  is  sometimes  possible  to  use  these  plants  in  large  groups, 
while  in  other  instances  it  is  advisable  to  use  such  plants  as  specimens 
at  intervals  in  the  proposed  plantings.  This  type  of  plant  must  be 
one  which  produces  fruit  or  seed  pods  which  can  be  eaten  by  the  birds. 
In  this  manner  a  large  number  of  birds  may  be  kept  on  many  home 
grounds  throughout  the  different  months  of  the  year,  especially  if 
plants  are  selected  which  attract  the  birds  in  these  different  months. 
It  is  much  easier  to  se'ect  a  group  of  plants  which  will  attract 
birds  during  the  winter  months  when  no  food  is  available  than  it  is 
to  choose  plants  which  will  attract  birds  during  the  summer  months 
when  food  is  plentiful. 

There  are  many  plants,  such  as  sumacs,  mulberries,  blackberry- 
lilies,  jewel  weeds,  and  hazels,  which  should  be  used,  occasionally,  be- 
cause their  main  value  is  the  value  of  their  fruit  for  the  feeding  of  birds, 
while  they  possess  a  very  minor  value  for  ornamental  landscape  plant- 
ing. On  the  other  hand,  there  is  a  surprisingly  large  list  of  plants  which 
are  desirable  and  which  are  grown  commercially  in  the  nursery  for  use 
in  ordinary  landscape  planting  which  do  not  produce  valuable  fruit. 

In  this  list  the  reader  will  readily  note  that  different  kinds  of  shrubs 
produce  fruit  which  attracts  different  kinds  of  birds.  The  owner  of  an 
estate  should  therefore  know  the  birds  which  generally  frequent  the 
locality  in  question  and  should  use  plants  producing  fruit  attractive 
to  these  species  of  bird  life.  There  are  many  shrubs  the  fruit  of  which 
is  either  too  hard  or  too  acid  for  birds  to  eat,  such  as  the  following: 
privets,  sweet  shrub,  and  bladder-nut. 

To  successfully  attract  birds  a  plant  must  possess  certain  require- 
ments such  as  ability  to  produce  a  quantity  of  edible  fruit,  to  afford 
shelter  from  the  extreme  heat  of  bright  sunny  days,  shelter  from  wind, 


PLANTS  FOR  FRUIT  CHARACTERISTICS 


165 


and  to  provide  sufficient  seclusion  so  that  certain  types  of  birds  may 
be  protected  from  the  view  of  persons.  On  another  page  there  is  a 
list  of  plants  which  are  used  during  the  growing  season  to  attract  birds 
and  to  keep  them  away  from  the  fruits  in  the  garden,  particularly  the 
berries.  In  fact,  many  farmers,  as  well  as  the  owners  of  ornamental 
plantings,  have  found  that  cultivated  fruits  are  greatly  protected  from 
damage  if  wild  fruit  is  plentiful  in  that  special  locality,  and  that  they 
are  subject  to  much  damage  where  wild  fruit  is  scarce.  An  interesting 
point  in  the  discussion  of  plants  used  for  attracting  birds  is  the  fact 
that  many  birds  feed  upon  fleshy  fruits  in  order  to  obtain  the  water 
which  they  contain.  Therefore  the  presence  of  bird  baths  on  home 
grounds,  where  cultivated  fruits  require  protection,  will  often  keep 
many  of  the  birds  away  from  the  fruit. 

The  barberries,  snowballs,  sumacs,  elderberries,  bush  honeysuckles, 
mulberries,  bitter-sweets,  and  wild  grapes  attract  the  greater  number  of 
birds. 


D.  PRODUCING  FRUIT  VALUABLE  FOR  ATTRACTING  BIRDS.  There 
are  numerous  species  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  which  are  not  only 
useful  in  a  decorative  way,  but  also  add  much  to  the  interest  of  a  place, 
attracting  the  birds  by  their  fruit.  Plants  found  in  this  list  are  among 
the  most  important  for  furnishing  food  for  birds.  The  names  of  the 
birds  which  feed  upon  the  various  fruits  follow  the  plant  list.  The 
numbers  after  each  plant  in  this  list  correspond  with  the  index  number 
of  the  birds  in  List  c. 


a.     Fruiting  in  summer: 

Amelanchier  (in  variety) — I,  2,  5,  7, 10,  12, 

15,  18,  21,  26. 
Shad-bush 
Ampelopsis  quinquefolia — 2,  7,  II,  14,  17, 

1 8,  19,  26. 
Virginia  Creeper 

Aronia  (in  variety) — 9,  10,  12,  13. 

Chokeberry 
Benzoin  aestivale — II,  17,  19,  26. 

Spice  Bush 
Berberis  (in  variety) — 5,  7,  1 1,  14,  17,  18, 

19,  26. 
Barberry 

Celtis  occidentalis — I,  2,  5,  7,  18,  26. 
Nettle  Tree 


Cornus  (in  variety) — i,  2,  4,  5,  6,  7,  10, 

12,   13,   IS,   17,   l8,    19,  20,  22,  24,  26. 

Dogwood 
Gaultheria  procumbens — 10,  13,  9,  5. 

Wintergreen 
Lonicera  (in  variety) — 9,  10,  12,  13. 

Honeysuckle 
Morus  rubra — I,  2,  3,  4,  5,  7,  8,  10,  n,  12, 

14,  15,  i6,  17,  18,  19,  21,  22,  24,  26. 
Red  Mulberry 

Nyssa  sylvatica — 4,  12,  18,  17,  22,  26. 

Tupelo 
Prunus  (in  variety) — I,  4,  5,  7,  10,  12,  14, 

15,  18,  22,  25,  26. 
Cherry  and  Plum 


166  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Rubus  (in  variety) — I,  2,  12,  18,  19.  Vaccinium  (in  variety) — 4,  5,  7,  n,  12, 

Brambles  14,  18,  19,  26. 

Sambucus  (in  variety)— I,  2, 4,  5,  7, 10,  II,  Blueberry 
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19,  22,  24,  26, 

Elder  rtftt  (m  variety)—!,  5,  7,  11,  12,  14,  17, 

Symphoricarpos  (in  variety) — 9, 10, 12, 13.  l%>  I9>  22>  26. 

Indian  Currant  and  Snowberry  Grape 

b.     Holding  fruit  into  the  winter  months: 

Celastrus  (in  variety) — 2,  II,  17,  1 8,  26.  Myrica  cerifera — I,  6,  7,  1 1,  14,  17,  18, 

Bitter-sweet  19,  20,  25,  26. 

Crataegus  coccinea — 7,  n,  12,  18.  Bayberry 

Scarlet-fruited  Thorn  Rhamnus  (in  variety) — 4,  5,  10, 12,  13, 14, 

Crataegus  cordata — 7,  n,  12.  I^>  22. 

Washington  Thorn  Buckthorn 

Crataegus  crus-galli—-j,  n,  12,  18.  Rhus  fa  variety)— I,  2,  4,  5,  6,  7,  10,  1 1, 

Cockspur  Thorn  12,  14,  17,  1 8,  19,  20,  22,  24,  25,  26. 

Crataegus  oxycantha — 7,  II,  12,  18.  Sumac 

May  Thorn  Sorbus  (in  variety)— 2,  5,  9,  10,  1 1,  18, 

Evonymus  (in  variety) — 2,  18,  19,  26.  A/r19'      •'    A  L 

Burning  Bush  and  Spindle  Tree  Mountain  Ash 

Ilex  opaca-2,  7,  17,  18,  26.  Symphoricarpos  (m  variety)  9,  10,  12,  13. 

American  Holly  Snowberry  and  Indian  Currant 

Ilex  verticillata— 2,  7,  17,  18,  26.  Ts*g*  tentdmris ^ 

Winterberry  Canadian  Hemlock 

/«nt>r«.r  (in  variety)-2,  5,  6,  9,  10,  14,  «*"""•    <in    varietv)    ««Pt    v|"ety 

16,  17,  18,  19,  23,  25,  26.  «nm«m««-a,  5,  7,  »,  17,  18,  19, 

Red  Cedar  22>  25'  26- 

,     .        ,.               .  Viburnum 
Lomcera  (in  variety) — 9,  10,  12,  13. 

Honeysuckle 

Hips  of  the  following  roses  are  eaten  by  many  species  of  birds. 

Rosa  blanda  Rosa  rubiginosa 

Meadow  Rose  Sweet  Brier 

Rosa  Carolina  Rosa  rubrifolia 

Carolina  Rose  Red-leaved  Rose 

Rosa  lucida  Rosa  rugosa  and  single  hybrids 

Glossy  Rose  Japanese  Rose 

Rosa  multifiora  Rosa  setigera 

Japanese  Climbing  Rose  Prairie  Rose 

Rosa  nitida  Rosa  spinosissima 

Shining-leaved  Rose  Scotch  Rose 

Rosa  wichuraiana 
Memorial  Rose 

c.     Birds  attracted  by  the  fruit.  The  following  "is  a  tabulation  of 
the  interesting  types  of  birds  which  are  attracted  by  the  various 


PLANTS  FOR  FRUIT  CHARACTERISTICS  167 

kinds  of  fruit  grown  on  the  plants  in  list  XX- D — a  and  b.  The  numbers 
appearing  after  the  names  of  the  plants  on  Pages  165  and  166  refer 
to  the  numbers  opposite  the  names  of  the  different  birds  in  the  follow- 
ing list.  All  of  these  birds  feed  upon  one  or  more  of  the  kinds  of 
fruit  shown  on  the  preceding  pages. 

1.  Blackbird  10.  Grosbeak  19.  Sparrow 

2.  Bluebird  n.  Grouse  20.  Swallow 

3.  Bobolink  12.  Jay  21.  Tanager 

4.  Catbird  13.  Junco  22.  Thrasher 

5.  Cedarbird  14.  Kingbird  23.  Thrush 

6.  Chickadee  15.  Oriole  24.  Vireo 

7.  Crow  16.  Phoebe  25.  Warbler 

8.  Cuckoo  17.  Quail  26.  Woodpecker 

9.  Finch  1 8.  Robin 

E.  PRODUCING  FRUIT  WHICH  ATTRACTS  BIRDS  AWAY  FROM  OTHER 
FRUIT.     Mulberries  and  shad-bushes  will  protect  cherries  and  straw- 
berries.    Elders,  Virginia  creeper,  and  black  cherry  will  protect  grapes. 
Elders  and  mulberries  will  protect  raspberries  and  blackberries. 

F.  PRODUCING  FRUIT  WHICH  OFTEN  MAKES  THE  PLANT  UNDESIR- 
ABLE IN  LANDSCAPE  PLANTING. 

Aesculus  hippocastanum  Celtis  occidentalis 
Common  Horse-chestnut  Nettle  Tree 

Ailanthus  glandulosa  ~,  ,.    .       .          , 

Tree  of  Heaven  Gleditsia  tnacanthos 

Catalpa  (in  variety)  Honev  Locust 

Indian  Bean  Nut  Trees  (in  variety) 


CHAPTER  XXI 
TREES  AND  SHRUBS  BEARING  COLOURED  TWIGS 

THE  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  following  list  are  those  whose  twigs  are 
coloured  sufficiently  to  make  them  of  value  from  a  landscape  stand- 
point. The  colour  effect  of  twigs  may  be  interesting  from  two  points 
of  view:  either  because  of  the  vivid  colouring,  such  as  is  seen  in  the 
red-twigged  dogwood,  and  in  the  glossy  rose,  or  of  the  general  tone  of 
colour  such  as  seen  in  the  American  olive  and  the  golden-barked 
willow,  in  which  the  colour  as  a  mass  is  much  more  effective  at  a  dis- 
tance than  upon  close  examination. 

Many  of  the  interesting  shrubs  included  in  this  group  are  often- 
times selected  because  of  the  sharp  contrast  between  the  colour  of  their 
twigs  and  the  white  background  of  snow  or  the  green  background  of 
evergreens  during  the  winter  months.  This  is  especially  true  of  the 
birches  and  the  dogwoods.  In  fact,  there  is  equally  as  much  interest 
during  the  winter  months  in  a  planting  of  this  kind,  properly  de- 
veloped, as  in  the  difference  of  foliage  effects  during  the  summer 
months.  It  is  a  feature  of  landscape  plantings  to  which  very  little 
attention  has  been  given  and  one  which  demands  careful  study  in  order 
to  be  successfully  worked  out. 

On  extensive  lawn  areas,  in  our  parks  and  large  private  estates, 
many  specimens  of  these  plants  can  be  tucked  away  in  large  groups, 
where  during  the  winter  months  the  colour  effect  of  the  twigs  will 
lend  an  interesting  tone  and  more  feeling  of  life  to  the  otherwise  mo- 
notonous effect  of  the  background. 

The  development  of  many  vistas  is  oftentimes  emphasized  through 
the  careful  selection  of  such  plants  as  the  birches,  willows,  and  Russian 
olive,  to  give  the  feeling  of  greater  depth  in  the  landscape  picture. 
Such  specimens,  planted  in  the  immediate  background,  with  a  heavy 
texture  of  planting  in  the  foreground,  will  greatly  add  to  the  suggested 
feeling  of  distance. 

The  plants  included  in  this  group  are  those  which  carry  an  interest- 
ing and  vivid  colour  of  the  branches  and  twigs  throughout  the  winter 

1 68 


COLOURED  TWIGS  169 

months.  In  the  great  majority  of  plants  the  new  twigs  show  an  in- 
teresting colour  for  perhaps  part  of  the  year,  usually  during  the  early 
spring  months  when  the  sap  begins  to  flow.  Later  the  colour  becomes 
softened  or  deadened  and  it  does  not  carry  through  to  the  late  fall  and 
winter.  There  are  practically  no  shrubs  which  can  be  selected  for  the 
colour  of  their  twigs  during  the  summer  months.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  select  plants  for  this  purpose  because  there  are  so  many  other 
equally  interesting  effects  to  be  obtained  from  flowers  and  foliage. 

The  first  two  years'  growth,  especially  the  first  year's  growth  on  any 
tree  or  shrub,  the  twigs  of  which  have  a  definite  colour,  is  much 
brighter  than  the  colour  of  the  twigs  after  they  are  more  than  two 
years  old  and  are  becoming  definite  branches  of  the  plant.  This  is  a 
suggestion  that  severe  pruning,  or  cutting  back,  will  often  enhance  the 
effect,  as  in  the  case  of  the  red-twigged  dogwood. 

Twigs  are  also  extremely  interesting  because  of  the  markings.  The 
tamarix  and  silky  dogwood  are  types  to  study  in  detail  as  well  as  being 
valuable  for  the  mass  colour  effect  seen  at  a  distance. 

Colour  effects  of  twigs  form  the  most  interesting  feature  of  land- 
scape twig  effects,  and  yet  the  coverings  of  older  branches  and  tree 
trunks  on  many  trees  are  very  effective  in  summer  and  winter.  Every 
tree  has  its  individual  markings  of  trunk  and  branches,  of  great  in- 
terest to  the  landscape  student.  The  white  oak,  white  birch,  plane 
tree,  and  hackberry,  with  their  peculiar  bark,  are  valuable  in  landscape 
planting. 

LIST  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  BEARING  COLOURED  TWIGS 

This  list  consists  of  types  of  plants  which  are  extremely  interesting 
because  of  the  colour  effect  of  their  twigs.  A  memorandum  is  indi- 
cated opposite  each  type  showing  the  special  colour  effect  which  is 
produced  if  the  twigs  are  less  than  two  years  old.  As  twigs  grow  older 
the  colour  of  the  bark  becomes  more  neutral,  and  consequently  these 
plants  should  be  frequently  pruned  in  order  to  produce  new  growth 
with  its  more  vivid  colour  effects. 

Acer     pennsylvanicum — striped     green —  Betula  populifolia — white  bark 
white  branches  American  White  Birch 

Striped  Maple 

T>  .   7       .  j  i-  i   i  i      ,  Lornus  alba — blood-red  branches 

isetula  nigra — reddish  brown  bark  -o   i       •       i  r\  j 

Red  Birch  Red-twigged  Dogwood 

Betula  papyrifera — white  bark       .  Cornus  alba  sibirica — coral-red  branches 

Paper  Birch  Siberian  Dogwood 


170 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Cornus  paniculata — grey  bark 

Grey  Dogwood 
Cornus  sanguined  viridissima — green  twigs 

Green-stemmed  Dogwood 
Cornus    stolonifera    flavirammea — yellow 
bark 

Golden-twigged  Osier 
Elaeagnus  (in  variety) — silvery  bark 

American  Olive 
Fagus  americana — grey  bark 

American  Beech 

Forsythia     viridissima    —    dark     green 
branches 

Dark-green  Golden  Bell 
Kerria  japonica — green  branches 

Globe  Flower 


Platanus  orientalis — white  bark 
Oriental  Plane 

Populus    tremuloides    —    silvery    green 

branches 
Trembling  Aspen 

Rosa  blanda — reddish  purple  twigs 
Meadow  Rose 

Rosa  lucida — reddish  twigs 
Glossy  Rose 

Rosa  lucida  alba — greenish  twigs 
White-flowered  Glossy  Rose 

Salix  alba — yellowish  bark 
White  Willow 


Salix  vitellina  aurea — golden  yellow 

Golden-barked  Willow 
Salix  vitellina  britzensis — reddish  bronze 
Hybrid  Yellow  Willow 


CHAPTER  XXII 

PLANTS  VALUABLE  BECAUSE  OF  THE  AUTUMN 
COLOURATION  OF  THE  LEAVES 

ONE  of  the  most  charming  features  of  our  northern  landscapes,  es- 
pecially through  the  northeastern  United  States  where  such  a  great 
variety  of  deciduous  trees  are  indigenous,  is  the  autumn  colouration  of 
the  foliage.  During  the  normal  growing  seasons,  when  ample  rains 
have  fallen  and  the  trees  are  full  with  sap  at  the  end  of  the  season,  the 
autumn  colours  are  much  more  vivid  than  during  a  dry  season. 

It  is  extremely  important  in  designing  landscape  plantings  that 
thought  should  be  given  to  the  fruiting  effects  during  the  fall  and 
winter  months  and  also  to  the  autumn  colours  of  the  foliage  of  our  trees 
and  shrubs.  A  small  touch  of  colour  in  the  border  shrub  plantings  of 
the  average  lawn  is  usually  the  difference  between  an  uninteresting 
and  an  interesting  planting  at  that  season  of  the  year.  Every  planting 
should  have  introduced  into  it  a  few  plants  which,  if  not  valuable  for 
their  fruiting  and  flowering  characteristics,  will  produce  a  touch  of 
colour  as  accents  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  dead  greens  and 
browns  during  late  September  and  October. 

Autumn  colouration  is  the  result  of  an  interesting  physiological 
function  within  the  plant.  Contrary  to  the  average  opinion  that 
autumn  colour  is  the  result  of  sharp  freezes,  the  presence  of  frost 
serves  but  in  a  slight  degree  to  hasten  this  colouring,  because  the 
degree  of  cold  necessary  to  produce  a  freeze  further  retards  the  flow 
of  any  sap.  The  production  of  the  vivid  autumn  colours  is  caused  by 
a  devitalized  or  increasingly  dormant  condition  of  the  plant.  The 
lessened  flow  of  new  sap  to  the  leaves,  caused  by  the  formation,  of 
corky  tissue  at  the  extreme  base  of  the  leaf  to  cover  and  protect  the 
leaf  scar  during  the  winter  months,  results  in  a  chemical  reaction 
of  the  acids  within  the  leaf  itself.  The  results  of  this  chemical  re- 
action are  evident  in  the  autumn  colours.  The  factors  determining 
the  kind  and  degree  of  autumn  colouration  is  the  presence  of  different 

171 


172  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

acids  within  the  leaf.  These  acids  are  present  constantly  in  their 
respective  types  of  plants. 

It  is  a  peculiar  fact  that  in  some  trees  autumn  colouration  is  much 
more  vivid  than  in  other  trees,  because  of  the  presence  of  certain  acids 
the  chemical  reaction  of  which  produces  these  vivid  colours.  The 
autumn  colouration  of  foliage  ranges  from  the  dull  browns  through  the 
yellows  and  orange  to  the  brilliant  red  and  scarlet.  Some  of  our 
trees  and  shrubs  such  as  the  red  maple,  Judas  tree,  sourwood,  sumac, 
and  sassafras,  develop  their  autumn  colours  during  the  early  part 
of  the  fall.  In  these  trees  growth  [stops  early  in  the  season  and 
the  wood  matures  more  quickly.  There  is  one  group  of  plants 
such  as  the  Virginia  creeper,  Thunberg's  barberry,  red  oak,  high- 
bush  cranberry,  and  arrow-wood,  in  which  the  autumn  colouration 
is  produced  shortly  after  the  early  trees  have  shown  their  autumn 
colours.  The  American  beech,  golden  bell,  scarlet  oak,  and  burning 
bush,  and  some  others  mature  and  ripen  last  of  all  and  are  included 
in  the  group  with  late  autumn  colouration.  With  the  great  oppor- 
tunity for  selection  of  trees  and  shrubs  from  these  three  well-defined 
groups  a  succession,  if  it  may  be  so  termed,  of  autumn  colouration 
may  be  obtained,  which  will  supplement  and  add  interest  to  the  fruit- 
ing effects  produced  by  a  well-selected  group  of  plants  valuable  for  the 
characteristics  of  their  fruit. 

One  has  only  to  observe  our  native  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  north- 
east to  appreciate  the  wonderful  colour  effects  which  are  produced 
during  the  autumn  months  and  are  evidenced  on  all  of  our  hillsides. 
So  seldom  are  shrubs  selected  for  landscape  grouping  with  a. specific 
intention  of  emphasizing  their  value  because  of  autumn  colouration, 
that  we  find  there  are  few  good  illustrations,  and  those  at  scattered 
intervals,  showing  the  autumn  colours  and  their  values  in  the  settings 
of  our  lawns. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  VALUABLE  BECAUSE  OF  THE  AUTUMN 
COLOURATION  OF  THE  LEAVES 

The  plants  in  the  following  three  groups  have  been  separated  and 
grouped  because  of  the  interesting  colour  effects  of  the  foliage.  The 
most  important  factor  in  selecting  plants  for  the  autumn  colouration 
of  their  foliage  is  to  select  material  which  will  provide  a  succession  of 
colour  from  early  fall  to  late  fall.  The  colours  produced  by  the  foliage 
of  the  different  types  are  indicated  after  each  type. 


PLANTS  FOR  AUTUMN  COLOURATION 

A.     Early: 


173 


Acer  ginnala  (scarlet) 
Siberian  Maple 

Acer  negundo  (yellow) 
Box  Elder 

Acer  rubrum  (scarlet) 
Red  Maple 

Acer  saccharum  (red) 
Sugar  Maple 

Betula  lutea  (yellow) 
Yellow  Birch 

Betula  nigra  (yellow) 
Red  Birch 

Cercidiphyllum  japonicum  (yellow  to 

crimson) 
Kadsura  Tree 

Cercis  canadensis  (yellow) 
Red-bud 


Chionanthus  virginica  (yellow) 
White  Fringe 

Koelreuteria  paniculata  (yellow) 
Varnish  Tree 

Liquidambar  styraciflua  (scarlet) 
Sweet  Gum 

Liriodendron  tulipifera  (yellow) 
Tulip  Tree 

Oxydendrum  arboreum  (scarlet) 

Sourwood 
Platanus  orientalis  (yellow) 

Oriental  Plane 
Rhus  typhina  (scarlet) 

Staghorn  Sumac 
Sassafras  officinale  (orange  and  scarlet) 

Common  Sassafras 
Ulmus  americana  (yellow) 

American  Elm 


B.  Medium: 

Acer  palmatum  (red) 

Japanese  Maple 
Amelanchiier  (bright  yellow) 

Shad-bush 
Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  (red) 

Virginia  Creeper 
Berberis  thunbergi  (scanet) 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry 
Carpinus  caroliniana  (orange) 

American  Hornbeam 
Cotoneaster  (in  variety)  (red) 

Cotoneaster 

Crataegus  (in  variety)  (orange  to  red) 
Thorn 

Fraxinus  americana  (yellow) 

White  Ash 
Carya  alba  (rich  brown) 

Hickory 

C.  Late: 

a.     Coloured  foliage. 

Acer  platanoides  (green) 

Norway  Maple 
Cladrastis  lutea  (yellow) 

Yellow-wood 


Hydrangea  quercifolia  (yellow) 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 
Nyssa  sylvatica  (red) 

Tupelo 
Quercus  rubra  (red) 

Red  Oak 
Quercus  velutina  (orange  and  red) 

Black  Oak 
Rhus  canadensis  (red) 

Fragrant  Sumac 
Ribes  aureum  (yellow) 

Flowering  Currant 
Vaccinium  corymbosum  (crimson) 

High-bush  Blueberry 
Viburnum  acerifolium  (purple) 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum 
Viburnum  dentatum  (red) 

Arrow-wood 


Cornus  florida  (scarlet) 
Flowering  Dogwood 

Evonymus  alatus  (scarlet) 
Cork-barked  Burning  Bush 


174  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Evonymus  atropurpureus  (red)  Mahonia  aquifolium  (bronze) 

Burning  Bush  Oregon  Grape 

Evonymus  europaeus  (red)  Myrica  cerifera  (bronze) 

European  Spindle  Tree  Bayberry 

Fagus  americana  (rich  yellow)  Ostrya  virginica  (yellow) 

American  Beech  Hop  Hornbeam 

Forsythia  viridissima  (purple)  Pieris  floribunda  (bronze) 

Dark  Green  Golden  Bell  Mountain  Fetterbush 

Ginkgo  biloba  (yellow)  Quercus  alba  (purple) 

Maidenhair  Tree  White  Oak 

Hamamelis  vireiniana  (yellow)  Quercus  coccinea  (scarlet) 

Witch  Hazel  Scarlet  oak 

b.  Green  Foliage.  Some  trees  and  shrubs  are  exceedingly  inter- 
esting in  the  landscape  composition  because  of  the  varying  and  vivid 
colours  of  their  autumn  foliage,  ranging  from  brown  or  brownish  yel- 
low, through  to  vivid  scarlet  and  bright  red.  There  is  another 
group  of  shrubs  which  are  not  so  valuable  because  of  the  autumn 
colour  of  their  foliage,  but  because  of  the  fact  that  their  foliage  is 
retained  until  extremely  late  in  the  fall,  or  possibly  into  the  early 
winter.  Such  shrubs  as  the  privets,  and  many  others  shown  in  this 
list,  are  very  valuable  in  landscape  plantations  where  the  owner 
cannot,  because  of  climatic  or  soil  conditions,  resort  to  the  use  of 
evergreens,  and  is  still  desirous  of  producing  a  foliage  effect  that  will 
serve  as  a  background  or  a  screen  until  late  into  October  or  early 
November.  Many  of  these  shrubs  are  somewhat  tender  and  the 
fact  that  they  do  carry  their  leaves  unchanged  until  late  in  the  autumn 
often  shows  that  they  are  not  able  to  mature  their  wood  during  a  nor- 
mal growing  season.  Since  they  often  do  not  mature  their  leaves  they 
are  also  liable  to  go  into  the  winter  with  tender  wood.  Many  of  the 
shrubs  given  in  this  list  should  therefore  not  be  planted  in  exposed 
places. 

I.     Shrubs: 

Abelia  grandiflora  Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

Hybrid  Abelia  Prostrate  Cotoneaster 

Aralia  pentaphyla  Eleagnus  multiftora  rotundifolia 

Five-leaved  Angelica  Round-leaved  Gumi 

Berberis  wilsonae  Evonymus  bungeanus  semipersistens 

Wilson's  Barberry  Half-evergreen  Spindle  Tree 

Chaenomeles  japonica  Fontanesia  fortunei 

Japanese  Quince  Fortune's  Fontanesia 

Cotoneaster  adpressa  Forsythia  viridissima 

Creeping  Cotoneaster  Dark  green  Golden  Bell 


PLANTS  FOR  AUTUMN  COLOURATION  175 

Hypericum  buckleyi  Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Buckley's  St.  John's  Wort  Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 

Hypericum  patulum  henryi  Lonicera  sempervirens 

Hybrid  St.  John's  Wort  Coral  Honeysuckle 

Ligustrum  japonicum  Lonicera  standishi 

Evergreen  Privet  Standish's  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Ligustrum  ovalifolium  Viburnum  macrocephalum 

California  Privet  Chinese  Snowball 

Ligustrum  vulgare  sempervirens  Viburnum  opulus  nanum 

Half-evergreen  European  Privet  Dwarf  Bush  Cranberry 

Ligustrum  amurense  Viburnum  rhytidophyllum 

Amoor  River  Privet  Evergreen  Viburnum 

Viburnum  sieboldi 
Siebold's  Viburnum 

2.     Vines: 

Akebia  lobata  Clematis  paniculata 

Divided-leaved  Akebia  Japanese  Clematis 

Akebia  quinata  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Five-leaved  Akebia  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Smilax  hispida 
Prickly  Greenbrier 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

FAST-GROWING  TYPES  VALUABLE  FOR  PRODUCING 

SCREEN  EFFECTS 

IT  OFTEN  becomes  necessary  to  find  some  fast-growing  type  of 
tree  or  shrub  to  produce  an  immediate  screen.  This  is  especially 
true  in  the  development  of  new  landscapes  where  a  foliage  effect 
is  desired  and  the  more  permanent  types  of  shrubs  in  the  planta- 
tion require  a  longer  period  to  produce  the  desired  effect.  In  such 
instances  the  more  rapid-growing  types  of  shrubs  may  be  planted  and 
removed  after  the  first  one  or  two  years,  at  which  time  the  more 
permanent  types  have  developed  far  enough  so  that  during  the  suc- 
ceeding years  they  will  produce  the  effect  which  the  designer  had  in 
mind  when  they  were  first  selected.  The  great  danger  in  using  quick- 
growing  types  of  temporary  materials  for  immediate  effects  lies  in  the 
fact  that  for  the  success  of  such  plantations  the  owner  must  have  the 
"courage  of  his  convictions"  and  remove  the  temporary  types  of 
material  when  the  time  comes  that  they  are  beginning  to  crowd  and  to 
injure  the  more  permanent  types. 

In  other  instances,  where  it  is  necessary  to  screen  service  buildings 
or  blank  walls  of  other  buildings  such  quick-growing  types  of  trees 
and  shrubs  as  the  ailanthus,  poplars,  willows,  and  elders  may  be  planted. 
The  ailanthus  especially  is  used  to  form  a  mass  of  foliage  against 
service  buildings  and  blank  walls  during  the  summe  rmonths,  but 
this  tree  is  cut  back  each  year  to  a  height  of  three  or  four  feet  and  the 
new  growth  produces  the  effect  during  the  next  year. 

The  fast-growing  types  of  trees  and  shrubs  often  used  to  produce 
quick  effects  are  correspondingly  short  lived.  Those  trees  and  shrubs 
which  grow  rapidly,  mature  and  decay  nearly  as  rapidly.  Very  few 
of  these  types  should  be  placed  in  permanent  plantings. 

This  list  consists  of  two  distinct  groups  of  fast-growing  material: 
that  group  of  which  the  ailanthus,  poplar,  willow,  and  elder  are  typical, 
being  the  very  rapid-growing  types  of  material,  and  that  group  of  which 
the  remaining  trees  and  shrubs  are  typical  being  rapid-growing  types 

176 


FAST-GROWING  TYPES  FOR  SCREEN  EFFECTS      177 

which  are  more  or  less  permanent  in  their  character  of  growth.  The 
types  contained  in  this  last  group  establish  themselves  much  more 
quickly  than  trees  and  shrubs  of  a  similar  kind,  which  require  a  longer 
period  after  transplanting  before  making  a  normal  growth. 

Such  shrubs  as  the  weigela,  the  ninebark,  and  the  privet  are  often 
used  to  obtain  quick  mass  effects  of  foliage  around  the  base  of  buildings 
in  locations  where  the  slower-growing  types  of  shrubs,  such  as  lilacs, 
bridal  wreaths,  and  snowballs  would  require  a  much  longer  time  to 
develop  a  similar  effect. 

LIST  OF  FAST-GROWING  TYPES  VALUABLE  FOR  PRODUC- 
ING SCREEN  EFFECTS 

These  groups  contain  the  very  fastest  growing  and  most  temporary 
types  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  more  rapid-growing  types  of  trees 
and  shrubs  often  used  in  permanent  plantings.  Material  may  be 
selected  from  these  groups  when  an  immediate  foliage  effect  is  desired. 


A.  Trees: 

Acer  negundo 
Box  Elder 

Acer  saccharinum 

Silver  Maple 
Ailanthus  glandulosa 

Tree  of  Heaven 
Catalpa  speciosa 

Western  Catalpa 
Larix  europea 

European  Larch 
Madura  pomifera 

Osage  Orange 
Morus  alba  tatarica 

Mulberry 

B.  Shrubs: 

Cornus  alba  sibirica 

Siberian  Dogwood 
Cornus  stolonifera 

Red  Osier  Cornel 
Deutzia  crenata  Pride  of  Rochester 

Large-flowered  Deutzia 
Diervilla  florida 

Rose-coloured  Weigela 


Phellodendron  amurense 
Chinese  Cork  Tree 

Picea  excelsa 
Norway  Spruce 

Pinus  sylvestris 
Scotch  Pine 

Platarms  orientalis 

Oriehtal  Plane 
Populus  (in  variety) 

Poplar 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 
Salix  (in  variety) 

Willow 


Ligustrum  amurense 

Amoor  River  Privet 
Lonicera  (in  variety) 

Bush  Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus  grandiflorus 

Large-flowered  Mock  Orange 
Physocarpus  opulifolius 

Ninebark 


Sambucus  canadensis 
American  Elder 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

PLANTS  ADAPTED  TO  VARIOUS  TYPES  OF  SOIL 

CONDITIONS 

A  VERY  important  factor  in  determining  the  sorts  of  plants  adapted 
to  any  specific  location  is  the  soil  type.  By  soil  type  is  meant  the 
relative  acidity  or  alkalinity  of  the  soil  elements,  the  relative  fineness 
of  the  soil  particles,  and  the  relative  state  of  dryness  of  the  soil  material. 
All  of  these  conditions  overlap  and  combine  with  one  another  and  pro- 
duce soil  types  which  are  favourable  for  certain  groups  of  plants  and 
unfavourable  for  other  groups.  The  exact  physiological  reasons  why  a 
plant  should  succeed  so  much  better  on  one  soil  type  than  on  another 
is  seldom  exactly  understood;  but  practical  experience  has  helped  to 
solve  many  problems  and  to  bring  out  many  interesting  facts. 

Plants  adapted  to  boggy  soils  are  likely  to  be  shallow-rooted  like  the 
elm,  and  they  are  able  to  withstand  a  soil  condition  which  is  poorly 
aerated  and  almost  invariably  acid.  In  fact,  a  pond  full  of  alkaline  or 
limy  water  will  generally  be  found  practically  devoid  of  plant  life, 
while  in  an  acid  pond  plants  thrive  so  that  they  gradually  displace 
the  water  as  in  sphagnum  bogs,  which  were  open  ponds  at  one  time 
but  have  lost  that  character  through  the  excessive  growth  of  plants. 
In  a  true  bog  there  is  practically  no  free  drainage  except  during  the 
spring  thaw  or  flood  time. 

Plants  adapted  to  bog  gardens  are  called  bog  plants.  Perhaps  the 
most  prominent  of  these  perennials  are  the  different  varieties  of  the 
lady-slipper  and  the  pitcher  plant.  One  of  the  most  essential  things 
for  the  success  of  bog  garden  plants  is  to  have  a  moist  condition  which 
does  not  vary  to  any  marked  degree.  It  is  much  better  to  have  the 
ground  surrounding  the  roots  of  these  plants  over-saturated  than  to 
have  the  degree  of  moisture  become  too  much  depleted,'  as  the  water 
table  throughout  the  entire  area  of  the  bog  garden  should  be  main- 
tained at  a  constant  level  and  at  the  same  time  the  water  should  not  be 
allowed  to  become  stagnant.  If  the  area  which  is  being  developed  as  a 
bog  garden  does-not  naturally  possess  a  growth  of  certain  plants  which 
one  knows  to  be  indigenous  to  bog  areas  then  investigation  should  be 

178 


VARIOUS  TYPES  OF  SOIL  CONDITIONS  179 

made  to  be  sure  that  the  artificial  bog  garden  can  have  moist  soil  condi- 
tions which  will  be  congenial  to  the  plants  in  this  location. 

Peat  soils  are  not  only  naturally  acid  but  it  is  believed  they  con- 
tain low  forms  of  plant  life  also  which  are  of  great  assistance  in  pro- 
moting the  growth  of  ericaceous  plants  that  especially  thrive  on  peaty 
soils.  Peat  bog  soils  lack  available  nitrogen  and  therefore  carnivorous 
plants  occur,  such  as  pitcher  plants  and  sundew.  Humic  acid  is  pres- 
ent and  low  temperatures  are  the  prevailing  ones.  The  humic  acid 
acts  upon  the  roots  of  the  plants.  Plants  adapted  to  peat  are  likely 
to  be  those  requiring  considerable  humus  also  a  cool,  moist,  deep,  loamy 
soil  and  a  position  not  in  full  sun  when  transplanted. 

Since  in  a  light,  sandy  soil  the  particles  are  relatively  large  such  a 
soil  is  generally  well  aerated  and  not  retentive  of  moisture.  Thus, 
plants  adapted  to  such  a  soil  are  as  a  rule  very  hardy  and  possessed  of  a 
large  root  system  due  to  the  fact  that  the  roots  generally  have  to  ex- 
tend considerable  distances  in  search  of  water  which  may  fail  just 
when  most  needed,  that  is,  during  summer  droughts  and  winter  freeze- 
ups  accompanied  by  a  drying  wind.  Also  since  this  soil  type  is  well 
aerated  it  is  not  likely  to  contain  much  humus  or  to  be  acid  in  char- 
acter as  the  aeration  or  oxidation  of  the  humus  removes  one  cause  of  the 
soil  acidity. 

On  the  other  hand,  clay  soils  are  composed  of  very  fine  particles, 
poorly  aerated,  and  are  retentive  of  moisture  and  tend  to  be  acid  in 
reaction.  Therefore,  plants  adapted  to  clay  soils  are  generally  mois- 
ture loving,  free  from  large  fibrous  root  systems,  and  are  not  nearly  so 
likely  to  be  hardy,  especially  if  removed  to  another  soil  type. 

Light  soils  are  said  to  be  warmer  than  heavy  ones.  What  is  really 
meant  by  that  is  that  the  period  of  growth  from  spring  to  autumn  is 
longer  on  a  light  soil  than  on  a  heavy  one.  For  this  reason,  plants 
which  start  growth  early  in  the  spring,  like  peaches,  or  bloom  late  in 
the  autumn,  like  chrysanthemums,  generally  succeed  better  on  a  light 
soil.  For  the  present,  and  until  the  underlying  reasons  are  better 
understood,  experience  will  prove  the  best  guide  in  selecting  plants 
for  the  different  soil  types. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  ADAPTED  TO  VARIOUS  TYPES  OF  SOIL 

CONDITIONS 

A.  BOGGY  AND  PEATY  SOILS.  Plants  in  this  group  have  proved  their 
ability  to  thrive  under  extremely  wet  conditions  in  boggy  or  peaty 


i8o 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


types  of  soil.  The  evergreens  in  this  group  should  never  be  planted 
in  a  soil  containing  limestone  or  in  a  soil  which  is  supplied  with  water 
from  a  source  where  limestone  is  present,  or  be  fertilized  with  bone 
meal. 


a.  Boggy  situations  (Trees  and  Shrubs}: 

Acer  rubrum 

Red  Maple 
Alnus  glutinosa 

Black  Alder 
Alnus  incana 

Speckled  Alder 
Alnus  rugosa  serrulata 

Smooth  Alder 
Aronia  arbutifolia 

Red  Chokeberry 
Aronia  melanocarpa 

Black  Chokeberry 
Setula  nigra 

Red  Birch 
Cephalanthus  occidentalis  S 

Button  Bush 
Chamaecyparis  thyoides 

White  Cedar 
Clethra  alnifolia 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush 
Fraxinus  americana 

White  Ash 
Hypericum  densiflorum 

Bushy  St.  John's  Wort 
Ilex  verticillata 

Winterberry 

Boggy  situations  (Perennials): 

Ascelpias  rubra 

Red  Milkweed 
Aster  nemoralis 

Bog  Aster 
Cypripedium  candidum 

Small  White  Lady's  Slipper 
Eupatorium  verbenaefolium 

Rough  Thoroughwort 
Gaultheria  procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helonias  bullata 

Swamp-pink 

Solidago  neglecta 
Swamp  Goldenrod 


I  tea  virginica 

Virginian  Willow 
Larix  laricina 

Tamarack 
Nyssa  sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Picea  alba 

White  Spruce 
Quercus  alba 

White  Oak 
Quercus  bicolor 

Swamp  White  Oak 
Quercus  palustris 

Pin  Oak 
Salix  (in  variety) 

Willow 
Taxodium  distichum 

Bald  Cypress 
Thuja  occidentalis 
-  American  Arborvitae 
Tilia  americana 

American  Linden 
Ulmus  americana 

American  Elm 
Vaccinium  (in  variety) 

Blueberry 


Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 
Osmunda  cinnamomea 

Cinnamon  Fern 
Osmunda  regalis 

Royal  Fern 
Rhexia  virginica 

Meadow  Beauty 
Rynchospora  alba 

White  Beaked-rush 
Sarracenia  purpurea 

Pitcher  Plant 


VARIOUS  TYPES  OF  SOIL  CONDITIONS 


181 


b.     Peaty  situations: 


Pieris  floribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 
Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

Rhododendron 
Taxus  canadensis 

Ground  Yew 

Pachistima  canbyi  Piburnum  nudum 

Canby's  Mountain  Lover  Large  Withe-rod 

Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 
Yellowroot 


Kalmia  angustifolia 

Sheep  Laurel 
Kalmia  latifolia 

Mountain  Laurel 
Ledum  groenlandicum 

Labrador  Tea 


B.  LIGHT,  SANDY  SOILS.  This  group  contains  many  hardy  types  of 
trees  and  shrubs  which  seem  to  flourish  under  poor  soil  conditions.  In 
general  they  have  a  deep  root  system  which  enables  them  to  obtain 
moisture  and  food  material  during  periods  of  dry  weather. 


Trees: 

Cornus  florida 

Flowering  Dogwood 
Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Pinus  banksiana 

Jack  Pine 
Pinus  rigida 

Pitch  Pine 
Pinus  strobus 

White  Pine 


Pinus  sylvestris 

Scotch  Pine 
Prunus  padus  commutata 

Hybrid  European  Bird  Cherry 
Pyrus  baccata  (in  variety) 

Siberian  Flowering  Crab 
Ouercus  rubra 

Red  Oak 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 


b.  Shrubs: 

Azalea  nudiflora 

Pinkster  Flower 
Caragana  arborescens 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub 
Comptonia  asplenifolia 

Sweet  Fern 
Cornus  mas 

Cornelian  Cherry 
Cytisus  scoparius 

Scotch  Broom 
Hamamelis  virginiana 

Witch  Hazel 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Sea  Buckthorn 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 

Large-flowering  Hydrangea 


Juniperus  communis 

Common  Juniper 
Mahonia  aquijolium 

Oregon  Grape 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bayberry 
Prunus  maritima 

Beach  Plum 
Rhamnus  cathariica 

Common  Buckthorn 
Rhus  canadensis 

Fragrant  Sumac 
Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 
Salix  tristis 

Dwarf  Grey  Willow 


182                       THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Sophora  viciijolia  Tamarix  (in  variety) 

Sophora  Tamarisk 

Spiraea  vanhouttei  V actinium  corymbosum 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath  High-bush  Blueberry 

Symphoricarpos  vulgaris  Viburnum  (in  variety) 

Indian  Currant  Viburnum 

c.  Fines: 

Actinidia  (in  variety)  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Silver  Vine  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Ampehpsis  quinquefolia  Lycium  halimifolium 

Virginia  Creeper  Matrimony  Vine 

Celastrus  (in  variety)  Vitis  (in  variety) 

Bitter-sweet  Grape 

C.  HEAVY  TYPES  OF  SOILS.  Most  of  the  plants  in  this  group  are  not 
of  a  deep-rooted  type  and  are  better  adapted  for  use  in  the  heavy  types 
of  soil.  These  plants,  under  normal  conditions,  should  be  planted  in 
heavy  clay  soil  which  is  not  well  drained.  This  list  is  compiled  for 

reference  where  the  extreme   of  clayey  soil  conditions  exist  and  a 

particularly  safe  group  of  plants  is  desired  from  which  to  select. 

a.  Trees: 

Abies  balsamea  Larix  europaea 

Balsam  Fir  European  Larch 

Abies  brachyphylla  Larix  laricina 

Nikko  Fir  Tamarack 

Abies  veitchi  Larix  leptolepsis 

Veitch's  Silver  Fir  Japanese  Larch 

Acer  rubrum  Picea  excelsa 

Red  Maple  Norway  Spruce 

Acer  saccharum  Pinus  strobus 

Sugar  Maple  White  Pine 

Catalpa  bignonioides  Thuja  occidentalis 

Indian  Bean  American  Arborvitae 

Fagus  (in  variety)  Tsuga  canadensis 

Beech  Canadian  Hemlock 

b.  Shrubs: 

Aralia  (in  variety)  Corylus  avellana 

Angelica  Tree  Filbert 

Berberis  thunbergi  Diervilla  trifida 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Calycanthus  floridus  Halesia  Carolina 

Strawberry  Shrub  Silver  Bell 

Cornus  (in  variety)  Hamamelis  virginiana 

Dogwood  Witch  Hazel 
Fiburnum  (native  varieties) 
Viburnum 


VARIOUS  TYPES  OF  SOIL  CONDITIONS  183 

c.  Fines: 

Actinidia  (in  variety)  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 
Silver  Vine  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Akebia  quinata  Wisteria  sinensis 
Five-leaved  Akebia  Chinese  Wisteria 

D.  TREES  TOLERANT  OF  ALKALI  SOILS.  Trees  which  are  used 
in  this  type  of  soil  should  be  extremely  vigorous  in  their  habit  of  growth. 
There  is  no  special  reason  which  can  be  set  forth,  from  a  physiological 
standpoint  as  a  guide,  for  selecting  types  of  trees  for  these  conditions. 
The  best  and  safest  guide  is  the  experience  of  others. 

(Black  Alkali  Soils — Sodium  Carbonate): 


Koelreuteriapaniculata 
Varnish  Tree 


(White  Alkali  Soils.} 


Ailanthus  altissima  Populus  fremonti 

Tree  of  Heaven  Western  Cottonwood 

Elaeagnus  angustifolia  Prunus  davidiana 

Russian  Olive  David's  Flowering  Peach 

Gleditsia  triacanthos  Quercus  lobata 

Honey  Locust  (only  fairly  tolerant)  California  White  Oak 

Halimodendron  halodendron  Robinia  pseudacacia 

Salt  Tree  .     Black  Locust 

Platanus  orientalis  Ulmus  (in  variety) 

Oriental  Plane  Elm  (only  fairly  tolerant) 
Note:  All  varieties  of  Prunus  will  thrive  in  alkali  soils  if  grafted  on  Prunus  davidiana. 

E.  DROUGHT-RESISTING  PLANTS.  The  ability  of  some  plants  to 
resist  drought  lies  not  in  their  ability  to  extract  more  water  than  other 
plants  from  the  same  soil,  as  commonly  supposed,  but  in  their  ability 
to  send  deep  roots  after  water,  or  else  to  cut  down  the  loss  of  moisture 
through  their  tops  when  soil  moisture  is  scarce.  All  plants  require 
about  the  same  amount  of  available  moisture  in  the  soil  around  their 
roots,  to  keep  them  from  wilting  when  growing  in  the  same  type  of  soil. 
But  soil  types  vary  in  their  ability  to  give  up  moisture,  and  the 
moisture  content  in  a  sandy  soil  can  fall  much  lower  than  in  a  more 
retentive  loam  or  clay  soil  before  plants  begin  to  wilt.  This  explains 
why  plants  adapted  to  drought  conditions  and  growing  in  a  sandy  soil 
can  survive  a  period  of  drought  which  will  seriously  injure  other  plants 
growing  near  by  upon  a  clay  loam  soil  actually  containing  more  water. 


I84 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


All  of  the  plants  in  the  following  list  possess  some  characteristic  which 
fits  them  for  growing  in  dry  places  and  should  be  chosen  for  planting  in 
those  dry  spots  upon  embankments  or  on  sandy  soil  where  it  is  so  hard 
to  secure  results  with  ordinary  herbaceous  perennials.  While  the  plants 
included  in  this  list  are  called  drought-resisting  plants  they  are  not 
such  plants  as  will  withstand  deliberate  abuse  through  lack  of  cultiva- 
tion or  other  normal  care.  The  attempt  to  adapt  plants  of  this  kind  to 
extreme  soil  conditions  should  not  be  made  until  a  decision  has  been 
reached  that  no  changes  in  soil  conditions  are  practicable  or  justifiable. 


Achillea  filipendula 

Oriental  Yarrow 
Anchusa  italica 

Alkanet 
Anchusa  mysotidiflora 

Caucasian  Alkanet 
Arabis  alpina 

Rock  Cress 
Arenaria  montana 

Sandwort 
Artemisia  abrotanum 

Southernwood 
Artemisia  stelleriana 

Beach  Wormwood 
Calandrinia  umbellata 

Rock  Purslane 
Cerastium  tomentosum 

Snow-in-Summer 
Cheiranthus  allioni 

Hybrid  Wallflower 
Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 
Draba  azoides 

Aizoon-like  Whitlow  Grass 
Echinops  ritro 

Globe  Thistle 
Erigeron  speciosus 

Oregon  Fleabane 
Eryngium  amethystinum 

Amethyst  Sea  Holly 
Euphorbia  epithymoides 

Yellow  Wolf  s-milk 
Glaucium  flavum 

Sea  Poppy 
Helianthemum  (in  variety) 

Frostweed 
Liatris  pycnostachya 

Blazing  Star 


Liatris  scariosa 

Large  Button  Snakeroot 
Linaria  dalmatica 

Dalmatian  Toad-flax 
Lupinus  polyphyllus 

Perennial  Lupin 
Nepeta  mussini 

Catmint 
Oenothera  fruticosa 

Sundrops 
Oenothera  speciosa 

Missouri  Evening  Primrose 
Papaver  orientate 

Oriental  Poppy 
Platycodon  grandiflorum 

Balloon  Flower 
Salvia  azurea 

Blue  Salvia 
Salvia  pratensis 

Meadow  Sage 
Santolina  chamaecyparisus 

Lavender  Cotton 
Sedum  (in  variety) 

Stonecrop 
Sempervivum  (in  variety) 

Houseleeks 
Stachys  lanata 

Wooly  Woundwort 
Tunica  saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like  Tunica 
Verbascum  olympicum 

Greek  Mullein 
Verbascum  phoeniceum 

Purple  Mullein 
Ferbascum  phlomoides 

Clasping-leaved  Mullein 
Yucca  (in  variety) 

Adam's  Needle 


CHAPTER  XXV 

PLANTS   FOR    EXPOSED   LAKE   FRONT  AND  RIVER 

CONDITIONS 

WE  HAVE  often  noticed  plantations  along  exposed  lake  fronts  and 
river  fronts  where  normal  development  seems  to  have  been  greatly 
retarded  and  a  considerable  loss  from  winter-killing  has  been  expe- 
rienced. A  definite  problem  in  the  selection  of  plants  adapted  to 
these  locations  is  presented,  especially  where  the  prevailing  winds 
during  the  colder  periods  in  the  year  are  from  the  water. 

The  plant  materials  listed  in  this  group  are  selected  from  those  which 
have  been  found  hardy  under  the  exposed  lake  front  and  river  front 
conditions  near  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  smaller  rivers  of  the  northern 
portions  of  the  middle  west.  Many  plants  which  apparently  are 
hardy  under  the  more  even  and  severe  climatic  conditions  of  the  in- 
land are  not  hardy  under  these  water-front  conditions.  This  is  largely 
due  to  the  sudden  changes  of  temperature  during  the  worst  of  the 
winter  months,  and  also  to  the  possible  effects  of  the  spray  freezing  on 
the  stems.  In  general  plants  which  do  not  ripen  their  growth  until 
very  late  in  the  season  are  not  recommended  for  use  under  these 
conditions. 

No  plants,  not  even  the  more  hardy  types  of  those  included  in  these 
lists,  will  adapt  themselves  to  normal  conditions  of  growth  as 
early  as  the  same  plants  would  adapt  themselves  under  inland  con- 
ditions of  climate  and  atmosphere.  A  greater  percentage  of  loss  will  be 
experienced  and  the  only  practical  method  for  obtaining  a  complete 
planting  is  by  careful  addition  and  replacement  during  the  first  three 
or  four  years.  It  is  necessary  for  much  of  this  material  to  become  ac- 
climated to  these  more  severe  conditions,  and  it  may  be  advisable  at 
times  to  plant  some  of  the  more  rapid-growing  trqes  and  shrubs  as  a 
partial  protection  during  the  first  two  or  three  years. 

It  is  preferable  that  material  used  on  the  steeper  slopes  of  river 
fronts  and  lake  fronts  should  possess  a  deep  root  system  which  will 
aid  in  protecting  the  slopes  against  erosion.  If  the  slopes  are  steep 

185 


186  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

and  wash  badly  during  periods  of  rain  such  types  as  locust,  sumacs, 
willows,  and  the  matrimony  vine  will  form  a  deep  root  system  quickly. 
The  process  of  naturalizing  trees  and  shrubs  on  the  slopes  of  river 
banks  and  lake  shores  is  a  slow  one.  It  should  never  be  attempted  as  a 
single  operation.  The  material  should  be  young,  a  great  percentage  of 
loss  must  be  expected,  and  only  the  "survival  of  the  fittest"  rule  can 
apply. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  EXPOSED  LAKE  FRONT  AND  RIVER 

CONDITIONS 

The  plants  in  Groups  A,  B,  and  C  of  this  list  include  the  hardy  types 
of  trees  and  shrubs.  All  of  these  types  have  been  known  to  thrive 
under  the  severe  exposures  of  lake  shore  and  river  frontage  throughout 
the  northeastern  United  States.  Most  of  these  plants  are  adapted  for 
use  on  the  slopes  so  often  found  along  rivers  and  lakes. 

A.  Trees: 

Acer  ginnala  Pinus  banksiana 

Siberian  Maple  Jack  Pine 

Alnus  glutinosa  Pinus  montana  mughus 

Black  Alder  Dwarf  Mountain  Pine 

Betula  alba  Pinus  nigra  austriaca 

European  White  Birch  Austrian  Pine 

Betula  populifolia  Pinus  rigida 

American  White  Birch  Pitch  Pine 

Caragana  arborescens  Pinus  sylvestris 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub  Scotch  Pine 

Crataegus  coccinea  Populus  balsamifera 

Scarlet-fruited  Thorn  Balsam  Poplar 

Crataegus  oxycantha  Populus  eugenei 

May  Thorn  Carolina  Poplar 

Elaeagnus  angustifolia  Ptelea  trifoliata 

Russian  Olive  Hop  Tree 

Fraxinus  americana  Pyrus  baccata 

White  Ash  Siberian  Flowering  Crab 

Juniperus  communis  Quercus  macrocarpa 

Common  Juniper  Mossy  Cup  Oak 

Juniperus  virginiana  Robinia  pseudacacia 

Red  Cedar  Black  Locust 

Picea  alba  Salix  vitellina 

White  Spruce  Yellow  Willow 

Picea  excelsa  Sorbus  americana 

Norway  Spruce  American  Mountain  Ash 

Ulmus  americana 

American  Elm 


EXPOSED  LAKE  FRONT  AND  RIVER  187 

B.  Shrubs: 

Cornus  alba  sibirica  Ribes  americanum 

Siberian  Dogwood  American  Black  Currant 

Eleagnus  argentea  Rosa  rugosa 

Silver  Berry  Japanese  Rose 

Myrica  cerifera  Salix  incana 

Bay  berry  Rosemary  Willow 

Philadelphus  coronarius  Shepherdia  canadensis 

Common  Mock  Orange  Canadian  Buffalo  Berry 

Prunus  maritima  Sorbaria  sorbifolia 

Beach  Plum  Mountain  Ash-leaved  Spirea 

Rhamnus  cathartics  Spiraea  tomentosa 

Common  Buckthorn  Hardback 

Rhus  canadensis  Symphoricarpos  occidentalis 

Fragrant  Sumac  Wolfberry 

Rhus  glabra  Syringa  vulgaris 

Smooth  Sumac  Common  Lilac 

Rhus  typhina  Piburnum  opulus 

Staghorn  Sumac  High-bush  Cranberry 

C.  Vines: 

Actinidia  arguta  Celastrus  scandens 

Dark-leaved  Silver  Vine  American  Bittersweet 

Actinidia  polygama  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Silver  Vine  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Ampelopsis  aconitifolia  Lycium  halimifolium 

Cut-leaved  Vitis  Matrimony  Vine 

Ampelopsis  heterophylla  Periploca  graeca 

Asiatic  Creeper  Silk  Vine 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Smilax  wtundifolia 

Virginia  Creeper  Bull  Brier 

Vitis  (in  variety) 
Grapes 


CHAPTER  XXVI 
TREES   AND   SHRUBS    FOR   SEASIDE    PLANTING 

A  PECULIAR  situation  exists  in  the  relative  hardiness  of  trees  and 
shrubs  for  seaside  exposures.  Plants  which  are  entirely  hardy  on  ex- 
posed river  front  and  fresh  water  locations  are  apt  not  to  thrive  at  the 
seaside,  especially  along  the  Maine  Coast  and  the  more  exposed  points 
of  New  England.  Where  the  climatic  conditions  of  the  winter  are  not 
extremely  severe,  as  on  Long  Island  and  the  points  farther  south, 
most  of  the  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  are  well  adapted.  There  are  loca- 
tions on  the  exposed  frontages  of  the  Great  Lakes  where  conditions  are 
equally  as  severe  as  are  conditions  on  the  east  coast  of  the  northeastern 
United  States.  The  salt  air  condition  and  the  salt  spray  during  the 
winter  months  does  not  become  a  factor,  however,  in  lake  front  ex- 
posures. 

Perhaps  the  most  severe  conditions  of  seaside  exposure  in  the  country 
are  along  the  shores  of  Penobscot  Bay  and  the  Maine  Coast.  In  all 
ornamental  plantings  in  these  locations  it  has  been  a  question  of 
experimenting  to  determine  the  trees  and  shrubs  to  be  used  to  with- 
stand the  extreme  and  severe  conditions  of  the  winter  months.  The 
growing  season  is  short.  Therefore  trees  and  shrubs  which  require 
a  longer  ripening  period  in  the  mid-summer  and  early  fall  months 
are  subject  to  considerable  winter-killing  because  of  the  immature 
condition  of  the  wood  when  freezing  weather  begins.  This  same 
factor  also  deprives  the  early  spring-flowering  shrubs  of  the  wood 
which  produces  flowers  on  buds  formed  the  year  before.  The  de- 
ciduous trees  which  are  hardy  along  the  coast  of  Maine  are  those  which 
are  indigenous  to  that  section  such  as  beeches,  red  oaks,  willows,  and 
red  maples.  None  of  the  more  refined  types  of  evergreens,  with  the 
exception  of  the  red  cedar  and  the  prostrate  juniper,  have  proved  hardy 
in  these  locations.  The  American  arborvitae  in  many  instances  is 
hardy,  and  in  others  has  not  proved  hardy.  The  white  cypress  is 
rarely  seen.  A  number  of  shrubs  which  are  included  in  this  list  have 
proved  themselves  extremely  hardy  and  able  to  develop  into  mature 

1 88 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  SEASIDE  PLANTING      189 

types  which  make  excellent  specimens  and  good  mass  plantings. 
The  location  considered  in  this  discussion  is  along  the  northeast  shore, 
where  the  exposure  is  the  most  severe.  In  the  inland  sections,  removed 
from  the  severe  exposure  of  the  salt  water,  and  protected  by  buildings 
and  woodland  developments,  a  large  part  of  the  list  of  generally  hardy 
shrubs  used  throughout  New  England  can  be  planted  with  safety. 
All  of  the  material  in  this  group,  however,  has  been  under  observation 
for  a  number  of  years  and  has  proven  itself  thoroughly  hardy. 

In  going  farther  south  along  the  less-exposed  New  England  shores 
we  find  a  group  of  trees  and  shrubs  which  are  fully  hardy,  but  which 
do  not  develop  at  their  best  along  the  severe  exposures  of  the  Maine 
Coast.  All  of  the  material  shown  in  the  first  list  is  fully  hardy  along 
the  New  England  Coast  and  the  less-exposed  shore  locations.  There 
are  many  other  shrubs  which  might  prove  hardy.  Under  the  author's 
observation  many  types  of  this  material  have  been  used  at  one  time  or 
another.  Sources  of  responsible  information  have  been  further  con- 
sulted and  many  plants  of  questionable  hardiness,  which  might  otherwise 
have  been  included  in  these  groups,  have  been  for  the  present  omitted. 

LIST  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  SEASIDE   PLANTING 

A.  PLANTS  HARDY  UNDER  THE  SEVERE  EXPOSURE  OF  THE  NORTH 
ATLANTIC  COAST.  Our  only  safe  guide  in  the  selection  of  plant  types 
for  the  extreme  exposures  along  the  northeast  coast  is  the  experience  of 
those  who  have  endeavoured  to  acclimate  a  wide  range  of  plant 
materials.  These  plants  have  proved  thoroughly  hardy,  but  it  is 
possible  that  other  plants  which  may  be  tested  out  in  other  locations 
or  in  the  future  will  prove  equally  as  hardy. 

a.     Deciduous  trees: 

Acer  rubrum  Populus  deltoides  monilifera 

Red  Maple  Northern  Cottonwood 

Betula  papyri/era  Populus  nigra  italica 

Paper  Birch  Lombardy  Poplar 

Betula  populifolia  Prunus  serotina 

American  White  Birch  Wild  Black  Cherry 

Populus  alba  Quercus  rubra 

White  Poplar  Red  Oak 

Populus  balsamifera  Salix  alba 

Balsam  Poplar  White  Willow 

Salix  lucida 
Shining  Willow 


190 

b.     Conifers: 

Juniperus  prostrata 

Dwarf  Savin 
Juniperus  virginiana  (native  forms) 

Red  Cedar 
Larix  laricina 

Tamarack 
Picea  alba 

White  Spruce 
Picea  pungens  glauca 

Koster's  Blue  Spruce 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Picea  rubra 

Red  Spruce 
Pinus  banksiana 

Jack  Pine 
Pinus  montana 

Swiss  Mountain  Pine 
Pinus  resinosa 

Red  Pine 
Pinus  rigida 

Pitch  Pine 


c.     Shrubs: 

jilnus  incana 

Speckled  Alder 
Alnus  rugosa  serrulata 

Smooth  Alder 
Ampelopsis  quinquefolia 

Virginia  Creeper 
Baccharis  halimifolia 

Groundsel  Bush 
Berberis  thunbergi 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry 
Chamaedaphne  calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Comptonia  asplenifolia 

Sweet  Fern 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Sea  Buckthorn 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora 

Large-flowered  Wild  Hydrangea 
Ilex  verticillata 

Winterberry 
Ligustrum  ibota  regelianum 

Regel's  Privet 
Ligustrum  vulgare 

European  Privet 
Lonicera  tatarica 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle 
Lycium  barbarum 

African  Matrimony  Vine 


Lyonia  ligustrina 

Andromeda 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bayberry 
Nemopanthus  mucronaia 

Mountain  Holly 
Prunus  maritima 

Beach  Plum 
Rhus  glabra 

Smooth  Sumac 
Rhus  typhina 

Staghorn  Sumac 
Rosa  lucida 

Glossy  Rose 
Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 
Rosa  setigera 

Prairie  Rose 
Sambucus  canadensis 

American  Elder 
Shepherdia  canadensis 

Canadian  Buffalo  Berry 
Spiraea  salicifolia 

Meadowsweet 
Viburnum  cassinoides 

Withe-rod 
Viburnum  dentatum 

Arrow-wood 


B.  PLANTS  HARDY  IN  THE  LESS  SEVERE  SEASIDE  EXPOSURES. 
Under  the  less  severe  conditions  of  seaside  exposure  there  is  a  greater 
range  of  plants  which  may  be  used  in  addition  to  those  shown  under 
Group  A.  Most  of  the  material  in  this  part  of  the  list  is  not  adapted  for 
use  in  the  extreme  northern  section  of  the  seacoast. 


PLATE  XXVIII.  This  open  allee  is  framed  on  either  side  by  a  solid  row 
of  closely  sheared  thorn  trees.  Its  formal  lines  are  softened  by  the  row  of 
pink  flowering  dogwoods  which  add  a  charm  of  flowers  in  early  spring  and  of 
fruit  in  the  late  fall.  Thorns  planted  4  to  5  feet  apart  and  dogwoods  8  feet 
apart.  Width  between  rows  of  thorns  22  feet  and  between  rows  of  dogwoods 
9  to  10  feet.  (See  pages  144  and  147,  group  XVI-D-b) 


PLATE  XXIX.  An  open  allee  12  feet  wide  and  800  feet  long,  developed 
by  the  use  of  white  birch  planted  3  to  4  feet  apart  in  each  row.  Fora  per- 
manent allee  of  this  type  the  birch  is  not  ideal  because  of  its  short-lived 
characteristics  and  susceptibility  to  borer.  Thorns,  or  the  European  beech 
would  be  preferable.  (See  page  147,  group  XVI-D-b-i) 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  SEASIDE  PLANTING     191 

a.     Deciduous  trees: 


Acer  ginnale 

Siberian  Maple 
Amelanchier  oblongifolia 

Shad-bush 
Celtis  occidentalis 

Nettle  Tree 
Crataegus  coccinea 

Scarlet-fruited  Thorn 
Crataegus  cordata 

Washington  Thorn 
Crataegus  crus-galli 

Cockspur  Thorn 
Crataegus  oxycantha 

May  Thorn 


Gleditsia  triacanthos 

Honey  Locust 
Platanus  occidentalis 

American  Plane 
Populus  alba  pyramidalis 

Belle's  Poplar 
Prunus  pumila 

Sand  Cherry 
Ptelea  trifoliata 

Hop  Tree 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 
Salix  pentandra 

Laurel-leaved  Willow 


Salix  vitellina  aurea 
Golden-barked  Willow 


b.     Conifers: 

Juniperus  sabina  (in  variety) 

Savin  Juniper 
Pinus  densiflora 

Japanese  Red  Pine 


Pinus  nigra  austriaca 
Austrian  Pine 

Pinus  sylvestris 
Scotch  Pine 


c.     Shrubs: 

Calluna  vulgaris 

Scotch  Heather 
Clethra  alnifolia 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush 
Cornus  amomum 

Silky  Dogwood 
Cytisus  scoparius 

Scotch  Broom 
Dirca  palustris 

Leather-wood 
Genista  tinctoria 

Dyer's  Greenweed 
Hibiscus  syriacus 

Rose  of  Sharon 
Hydrangea  (in  variety) 

Hydrangea 
Hypericum  kalmianum 

Kalm's  St.  John's  Wort 
Itea  virginica 

Virginian  Willow 
Lycium  chinense 

Chinese  Matrimony  Vine 


Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

White  Kerria 
Rhus  copallina 

Shining  Sumac 
Robinia  hispida 

Rose  Acacia 
Rosa  blanda 

Meadow  Rose 
Rosa  Carolina 

Carolina  Rose 
Rosa  multiflorti 

Japanese  Climbing  Rose 
Rosa  nitida 

Shining-leaved  Rose 
Rosa  spinosissima 

Scotch  Rose 
Rubus  odoratus 

Flowering  Raspberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Indian  Currant 
Viburnum  lentago 

Sheep  Berry 


CHAPTER  XXVII 
PLANTS  FOR  PARTIALLY  SHADED  LOCATIONS 

IT  OFTEN  becomes  necessary  to  make  a  selection  of  the  lower- 
growing  trees  and  shrubs  to  be  planted  in  partially  shaded  situations. 
This  condition  may  be  brought  about  by  the  location  of  buildings,  by 
the  location  of  individual  groups  of  large  trees,  and  by  the  location 
of  scattered  specimen  trees.  We  are  not  considering,  in  this  compila- 
tion, the  group  of  materials  shown  in  Chapter  XXVIII,  which  is  not 
only  adapted  to  this  same  condition  of  partial  shade  but  has  further 
value  in  being  adapted  to  heavily  shaded  areas  under  wooded  con- 
ditions. The  shrubs  in  this  list  are  those  which  may  be  used  to  a 
great  degree  of  safety  on  lawn  areas  where  a  more  or  less  refined  plant- 
ing is  necessary,  and  where  native  plants  are  not  so  much  desired. 

The  difficulty  with  many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  planted  in  shaded 
locations  is  that  the  lack  of  sunlight  prevents  them  from  attaining  a 
normal  development.  The  foliage  becomes  thin  and  the  branches  are 
apt  to  grow  long  and  spindly.  Plants  indigenous  to  such  conditions, 
however,  and  which  have  come  to  thrive  with  this  lessened  supply  of 
light,  in  partially  shaded  conditions,  develop  an  interesting  type  of 
foliage;  but  flower  effects  on  such  plants  are  never  quite  as  heavy  as  on 
plants  which  are  supplied  with  sufficient  light.  In  the  making  of 
plantations  of  this  kind  the  only  logical  hope  can  be  that  of  pro- 
ducing a  foliage  effect  which  serves  as  a  background  for  a  lawn  and 
also  often  serves  as  a  partial  screen  to  give  privacy  to  some  garden  or 
to  shut  off  a  service  yard  or  other  undesirable  area. 

The  bush  honeysuckle,  the  arrow-wood,  and  the  privet  form  a  denser 
foliage  than  any  of  the  other  types  of  plants  in  this  group. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  PARTIALLY  SHADED  LOCATIONS 

As  contrasted  with  the  plants  listed  under  Chapter  XXVIII,  most  of 
the  types  in  this  list  are  adapted  for  use  on  the  refined  lawn  areas  where 
fruit  and  flowers,  together  with  a  heavy  texture  of  foliage  in  the  mature 
plant,  are  of  great  value.  In  fact,  some  of  these  plants  such  as  the 

19* 


PLANTS  FOR  PARTIALLY  SHADED  LOCATIONS      193 

ground  yew  and  the  kalmia,  will  thrive  better  under  partially  shaded 
conditions  than  under  conditions  of  open  exposure  to  the  sun. 


Acer  pennsyhanicum 

Striped  Maple 
Amelanchier  oblongifolia 

Shad-bush 
Azalea  (in  variety) 

Native  Azalea 
Benzoin  aestivale 

Spice  Bush 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 
Ceanothus  americanus 

New  Jersey  Tea 
Clethra  alnifolia 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush 
Cornus  alternifolia 

Alternate-leaved  Dogwood 
Cornus  florida 

Flowering  Dogwood 
Cornus  mas 

Cornelian  Cherry 
Diervilla  hybrida  lutea-marginata 

Variegated  Weigela 
Diervilla  trifida 

Bush  Honeysuckle 
Hamamelis  virginiana 

Witch  Hazel 
Hydrangea  arborescens 

Wild  Hydrangea 
Hydrangea  quercifolia 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 
Kalmia  latifolia 

Mountain  Laurel 
Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Privet 


Lonicera  tatarica 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus  coronarius 

Mock  Orange 
Picea  alba 

White  Spruce 
Rhamnus  caroliniana 

Carolina  Buckthorn 
Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

Rhododendron 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

White  Kerria 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Indian  Currant 
Taxus  canadensis 

Ground  Yew 
Tsuga  canadensis 

Canadian  Hemlock 
Viburnum  acerifolium 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum 
Viburnum  alnifolium 

Hobble-bush 
Viburnum  dentatum 

Arrow-wood 
Viburnum  lentago 

Sheep  Berry 
Viburnum  opulus 

High-bush  Cranberry 
Viburnum  prunifolium 

Black  Haw 
Viburnum  pubescens 

Downy-leaved  Arrow-wood 


Zanthoxylum  americanum 
Prickly-ash 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

PLANTS    FOR   UNDERGROWTH    PLANTING   IN 
WOODED  AREAS 

THE  plants  which  most  successfully  fill  the  requirements  for  under- 
growth planting  are  our  native  woodland  species.  These  requirements 
are  mainly  the  ability  to  succeed  in  partial  or  dense  shade  and  also  to 
survive  the  struggle  for  moisture,  food,  and  room  which  always  exists 
in  a  naturalistic  planting  where  the  ground  below  and  the  air  above 
are  already  well  occupied  by  large  trees.  Our  northern  forests  con- 
tain a  profusion  of  plants  which  will  succeed  as  undergrowth.  But 
too  often  in  the  past  not  enough  care  has  been  taken  to  choose  only 
those  plants  which  are  desirable  from  an  ornamental  point  of  view.  It 
is  possible,  however,  to  select  from  the  large  amount  of  available  mate- 
rial all  the  plants  which  are  necessary  to  carry  out  an  undergrowth 
planting  on  any  scale,  and  at  the  same  time  use  only  plants  which  are 
desirable  on  account  of  their  flowering  habits,  their  fruits,  the  autumn 
colouration  of  their  leaves,  their  evergreen  character,  or  some  equally 
valuable  characteristic  quality. 

One  of  the  best  examples  of  a  successful  shrub  for  undergrowth  is  the 
well-known  maple-leaved  viburnum,  which  produces  white  flowers  in 
June  and  blue  fruits  in  the  autumn,  and  whose  leaves  in  autumn  have  a 
striking  pink  colour.  Other  shrubs  which  lend  themselves  very  readily 
to  undergrowth  planting  are  the  sweet  pepper  bush,  with  its  profuse 
white  flowers;  the  Carolina  allspice,  on  account  of  its  fragrance  and 
autumn  colour;  and  the  chokeberries  and  winterberry,  useful  for  their 
striking  autumn  fruits.  Among  the  coniferous  evergreens  the  native 
hemlock  and  the  balsam  fir  are  very  satisfactory  plants.  The  Douglas 
spruce  also  promises  well  and  is  adaptable  to  almost  any  soil. 

In  choosing  smaller  plants  of  perennial  herbaceous  character  much 
care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  weedy  species  or  those  without  some 
especially  worth-while  characteristic.  There  are  many  native  forms 
which  are  valuable  for  their  green  foliage  alone,  such  as  the  Christmas 
fern,  which  is  evergreen  also,  the  ostrich  fern,  Clayton's  fern,  and  the 

'94 


UNDERGROWTH  PLANTING  IN  WOODED  AREAS    195 

maidenhair  fern.  Among  the  valuable  asters  are  several  which 
bloom  profusely  during  the  late  summer  and  autumn  months  when 
other  woodland  flowers  are  scarce.  The  old-fashioned  dead  nettle, 
which  does  not  sting,  and  its  variegated  leaved  variety,  provide 
flowers  from  May  to  September,  when  colonized  in  moist  shade, 
and  the  goldenrods  also,  such  as  the  blue-stemmed  and  the  variety 
called  speciosa,  enliven  the  woods  from  August  to  October.  Among 
the  plants  which  will  be  found  valuable  for  forming  mats  of  ground 
cover  and  some  of  which  are  evergreen  in  character  are  the  money- 
wort, English  ivy,  running  strawberry-bush,  spotted  wintergreen,  and 
the  dwarf  cornus  or  bunchberry. 

As  a  rule  these  plants  succeed  best  when  planted  in  small  colonies 
and  when  used  to  face  down  clumps  of  shrubs  which  may  in  turn  be 
used  against  an  evergreen  background.  Thus,  plantings  may  be 
grouped  so  as  to  provide  interesting  combinations  along  the  sides  of 
paths  and  at  ends  of  vistas.  If  the  natural  mulch  layer  has  disappeared 
an  effort  should  be  made  to  reproduce  it  as  soon  as  possible  after 
planting  and  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  forest  fires  do  not  burn 
off  the  autumn  leaves  which  nature  provides  for  a  winter  cover.  When 
leaves  drift  in  so  thickly  as  to  threaten  to  smother  the  smaller  plants 
a  portion  of  these  leaves  may  be  removed;  but  as  a  general  rule  it  is  not 
wise  to  do  too  much  cleaning  up  unless  the  desirable  plants  are  in 
danger  of  being  overwhelmed  by  the  mulch  or  by  larger  native  plants. 
One  of  the  most  common  faults  in  woodland  landscape  developments 
is  the  attempt  to  "clean  up"  existing  undergrowth  rather  than  to 
study  its  interesting  possibilities  in  combination  with  many  types  of 
plants  valuable  for  foliage,  flowers,  and  fruit. 

All  these  types  of  plants  are  adapted  for  use  in  woodland  wild 
garden  areas,  and  without  exception  they  will  in  time  naturalize  them- 
selves. In  developing  plantings  of  this  type  it  is  much  better  practice 
to  lay  the  foundation  during  the  first  season  by  planting  sparsely  over 
the  entire  planting  area.  During  the  succeeding  season  many  plants 
can  be  added  to  supplement  the  planting  which  is  in  place  and  to  re- 
place those  which  have  died  in  the  process  of  establishing  themselves. 
The  best  results  are  obtained  by  so  laying  out  the  planting  develop- 
ment that  a  period  of  at  least  three  years  is  required  in  which  to  put  all 
of  the  material  into  its  permanent  location.  The  development  of  mass 
plantations  under  heavily  shaded  conditions  is  quite  a  different  prob- 
lem from  the  development  of  mass  plantations  on  open  and  refined 


196  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

lawn  areas  where  planting  should  be  practically  completed  during  the 
first  two  seasons.  Experience  has  taught  those  who  have  watched  this 
type  of  plantations  develop  that  a  great  percentage  of  loss  must  be 
anticipated,  for  two  reasons :  In  the  first  place,  plants  are  placed  under 
abnormal  conditions  of  lack  of  sunlight,  and  second,  the  available 
artificial  water  supply  is  apt  to  be  very  limited.  The  process  of 
naturalizing  plants  and  acclimating  them  to  conditions  of  this  kind 
must  naturally  be  a  slow  process  if  the  results  when  the  work  is  com- 
pleted are  to  be  a  success  from  a  landscape  standpoint. 

It  is  quite  essential  in  naturalizing  perennials  in  a  wild  garden 
that  conditions  similar  to  those  under  which  the  plant  was  previously 
growing  should  be  reproduced.  A  number  of  wild  garden  develop- 
ments have  at  different  times  become  failures  because  as  trees  have 
died,  thus  changing  the  conditions  of  shade,  these  trees  have  not  been 
replaced,  and  the  result  is  that  this  changing  of  shade  conditions  has 
caused  the  killing  out  of  many  types  of  perennials  which  are  especially 
susceptible  to  changed  conditions  of  this  character. 

LIST  OF   PLANTS   FOR   UNDERGROWTH   PLANTING   IN 

WOODED  AREAS 

Most  of  the  plants  contained  in  this  list  can  be  collected  from  the 
fields  and  woods.  The  larger  plants  are  valuable  as  background  for 
wild  garden  planting  and  for  undergrowth  planting  in  wooded  areas. 
For  information  supplementing  this  refer  to  Chapter  XXIX-C. 

A.     Shrubs  and  Small  Trees: 

Abies  balsamea  Ceanothus  americanus 

Balsam  Fir  New  Jersey  Tea 

Acer  saccharum  Clethra  alnifolia 

Sugar  Maple  Sweet  Pepper  Bush 

Aretostaphylos  uva*ursi  Cornus  alternifolia 

Bearbeny  Alternate-leaved  Dogwood 

Aronia  arbutifolia  Cornus  florida 

Red  Chokeberry  Flowering  Dogwood 

Aronia  melanocarpa  Hamamelis  virginiana 

Black  Chokeberry  Witch  Hazel 

Benzoin  aestivale  Hydrangea  arborescens 

Spice  Bush  Wild  Hydrangea 

Calycanthus  floridus  Ilex  verticillata 

Strawberry  Shrub  Winterberry 

Carpinus  caroliniana  Leucothoe  catesbaei 

American  Hornbeam  Catesby's  Andromeda 


UNDERGROWTH  PLANTING  IN  WOODED  AREAS    197 


Myrica  gale 

Bayberry 
Philadelphus  inodorus 

Scentless  Mock  Orange 
Physocarpus  opulifolius 

Ninebark 
Pinus  montana 

Swiss  Mountain  Pine 
Rhamnus  caroliniana 

Carolina  Buckthorn 


Rhododendron  (Native  Collected) 

Rhododendron 
Rubus  odoratus 

Flowering  Raspberry 
Staphylea  trifolia 

American  Bladdernut 
Tsuga  canadensis 

Canadian  Hemlock 
Viburnum  acerifolium 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum 


Zanthoxylum  americanum 
Prickly-ash 


B.     Ground  Cover  Plants: 

Aciaea  spicata 

Cohosh 
Adiantum  pe datum 

Maidenhair  Fern 
Ajuga  reptans 

Bugle 
Anemone  pennsylvanica 

Canadian  Windflower 
Aralia  racemosa 

American  Spikenard 
Aspidium  acrostichoides 

Christmas  Fern 
Aspidium  marginale 

Margined  Fern 
Aster  acuminatus   t 

Sharp-leaved  Aster 
Aster  cordifolius 

Starwort  Aster 
Aster  corymbosus 

Wild  Aster 
Aster  patens 

Spreading  Aster 
Chimaphila  maculata 

Pipsissewa 
Cimicifuga  racemosa 

Snakeroot 
Convallaria  majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Cornus  canadensis 

Bunchberry 
Cypripedium 

Lady's  Slipper 
Dennstaedtia  punctilobula 

Hay-scented  Fern 
Evonymus  obovatus 

Running  Strawberry  Bush 


Evonymus  radicans 

Climbing  Evonymus 
Evonymus  radicans  acutus 

Hybrid  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Galium  boreale 

Northern  Bedstraw 
Geranium  maculatum 

Crane's  Bill 
Hedera  helix 

English  Ivy 
Helianthemum  chamaecistus 

Rock  Rose 
Hepatica  triloba 

Hepatica 
Hydrastls  canadensis 

Golden  Seal 
Hypericum  calycinum 

Aaron's  Beard 
Hypericum  kalmianum 

Kalm's  St.  John's  Wort 
Lamium  maculatum 

Dead  Nettle 
Lysimachia  nummularia 

Moneywort 
Mahonia  repens 

Creeping  Mahonia 
Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 
Onoclea  sensibilis 

Sensitive  Fern 

Onoclea  struthiopteris 
Ostrich  Fern 

Osmunda  claytoniana 

Clayton's  Fern 
Pachistima  canbyi 

Canby's  Mountain  Lover 


I98 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Phlox  divaricata 

Wild  Sweet  William 
Podophyllum  peltatum 

Mandrake 
Polypodium  vulgare 

Polypody 

Sanguinaria  canadensis 

Bloodroot 
Solidago  arguta 

Sharp-leaved  Goldenrod 


Viola  cucullata 
Common  Violet 


Solidago  caesia 

Blue-stemmed  Goldenrod 
Solidago  speciosa 

Showy  Goldenrod 
Trillium  (in  variety) 

Wake  Robin 
Vinca  minor 

Periwinkle 
Viola  canadensis 

Canadian  Violet 


CHAPTER  XXIX 
PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER 

GROUND-COVER  plants  are  distinctly  valuable  for  a  use  covered  by  the 
literal  interpretation  of  the  word.  The  conditions  which  they  over- 
come may  not  be  unsightly  or  entirely  barren.  Their  general  use  is  to 
provide  on  the  ground  an  interesting  carpet,  which  may  be  close- 
growing,  as  in  the  instance  of  vines  and  the  very  low  perennials,  or 
taller-growing,  as  in  the  instance  of  yellowroot  and  flowering  raspberry. 

We  may  say  that  ground-cover  plants  are  used  to  make  a  more 
interesting  mat,  which  is  an  aesthetic  use,  or  to  form  a  carpet  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  excessive  evaporation.  Many  of  these  plants 
are  useful  because  of  their  fruiting  characteristics,  and  also  their  ability 
to  retain  their  foliage,  both  during  the  hot,  dry  summer  months  and 
during  the  winter  months.  In  the  selection  of  this  material  there  are 
many  different  and  distinct  uses  which  can  be  definitely  grouped  under 
various  headings,  as  shown  in  this  chapter. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  any  plants,  whether  high  or  low,  serve  as  a 
ground  cover  in  some  sense  of  the  word.  The  tall-growing  plants, 
which  are  often  seen  planted  in  close  masses  and  included  in  the 
groups  of  tall-growing  shrubs,  are  discussed  under  the  headings  of 
"mass  plantings"  and  also  "undergrowth  plantations."  This  dis- 
cussion does  not  attempt  to  treat  those  groups. 

It  has  seemed  best,  rather  than  to  include  in  one  general  list  all  of 
the  plants  used  for  ground  cover,  to  make  an  effort,  at  least,  to  separate 
into  a  number  of  subheadings  the  specific  uses  for  which  ground- 
cover  plants  may  be  selected.  The  person  familiar  with  plant  adapta- 
tions knows  that  there  are  distinct  groups  of  plants  which  are 
adapted  to  low,  moist  conditions,  as  there  are  distinct  groups  of  plants 
adapted  to  dry  and  sunny  conditions  also.  Those  of  us  who  have  had 
considerable  experience  in  the  planting  of  perennials  in  different  types  of 
garden  soil,  as  affected  either  by  the  type  of  soil  or  the  kind  of  drainage, 
know  that  certain  plants  will  thrive  in  a  very  moist  soil,  while  other 
plants  take  a  great  dislike  to  moist  conditions,  and  will  thrive  only 

199 


200  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

when  the  soil  is  well  drained  or  light  and  sandy.  There  are  some 
plants,  however,  like  the  moss  pink,  the  sea  thrift,  and  the  Japanese 
evergreen  ivy,  which  seem  to  thrive  almost  equally  well  in  moist 
situations  or  dry  situations.  The  plants  shown  in  Group  A  are  those 
which  have  proved  their  value  as  being  adapted  to  conditions  which 
are  continually  moist,  and  should  preferably  be  grown  in  the  open 
sunlight  and  not  subjected  to  any  considerable  degree  of  shade. 

Plants  which  are  adapted  to  dry  situations,  especially  conditions  of 
sandy  soil  or  extreme  drainage  where  grass  will  not  thrive,  include  a 
small  group  which  have  proved  themselves  very  hardy.  The  bar- 
berry, the  Japanese  spurge,  the  moss  pink,  and  the  stonecrops  are  fully 
representative  of  this  group.  The  mat  of  foliage  formed  by  the  plants 
in  their  more  mature  development  serves  to  shade  the  ground  beneath 
and,  to  a  certain  extent,  to  retain  much  moisture  in  the  soil  which 
otherwise  would  be  lost  through  evaporation.  This  group  includes  the 
close-growing  types  of  plants  which  are  selected  mostly  because  of  their 
ability  to  form  a  definite  mat.  Many  of  them  such  as  the  stonecrops, 
the  tunica,  and  the  moss  pink,  are  extremely  valuable  because  of  their 
flowering  habit,  although  effective  during  a  short  period  only.  The 
Japanese  spurge,  the  partridge  berry,  and  the  bearberry  are  valuable 
distinctly  on  account  of  their  foliage  habits. 

The  plantsman  is  often  called  upon  to  select  material  which  may  be 
vines,  perennials,  or  low-growing  shrubs,  to  be  used  for  ground-cover 
purposes  under  large  trees,  and  in  situations  heavily  shaded  by  build- 
ings. Most  of  these  plants  should  have,  for  their  most  successful 
growth,  an  excellent  topsoil  containing  a  small  percentage  of  clay,  or  a 
rich  woodland  loam  consisting  mostly  of  well-rotted  leaf  mold  and 
fibrous  roots.  These  plants  are  valuable  because  of  their  ability  to 
thrive  under  extreme  shade.  One  often  sees  in  large  lawn  areas  and 
at  the  edges  of  woods,  or  on  the  shady  side  of  buildings,  spots  which 
receive  little  or  no  sunlight  where  grass  will  not  thrive  and  where  most 
of  our  ordinary  shrubs  and  perennials  grow  thin,  leggy,  and  not  vigor- 
ous. In  such  locations  the  only  real  solution  lies  in  the  selection  of 
plants  which  will  form  a  ground  cover  and  thus  preserve  a  mat  of 
interesting  green  foliage.  Many  of  these  plants  also,  like  the  bunch- 
berry,  the  ground  yew,  and  the  partridge  berry,  have  interesting  fruit. 
The  waterleaf,  the  moneywort,  and  the  Japanese  evergreen  spurge  are 
types  valuable  only  because  of  their  foliage,  and  the  stonecrops,  the 
periwinkle,  and  the  wake  robin  are  valuable  also  because  of  their  inter- 


PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER  201 

esting  flowers.  This  list  of  plants  does  not  endeavour  to  cover  the 
group  shown  under  "perennials  valuable  for  ground  cover  in  wild 
garden  areas,"  but  if  one  is  seeking  more  complete  information  on  this 
subject  both  this  group  and  the  discussion  on  "wild  garden  areas" 
should  be  consulted.  (Chapter  XXXI-C.) 

The  question  of  how  to  make  interesting  those  embankments  and 
slopes  that  are  otherwise  unattractive  is  one  which  often  confronts  us. 
The  plants  which  are  used  for  this  purpose  are  included  under  the 
groups  of  shrubs,  ^perennials,  and  vines,  and  the  kind  of  materials 
selected,  whether  shrubs,  perennials,  or  vines,  depends  upon  the  scale 
of  the  effect  which  is  desired.  That  is,  for  coarse,  rocky  embank- 
ments, marked  with  large  boulders,  and  which  are  to  have  a  rocky 
appearance,  the  larger  shrubs  and  vines  are  most  valuable,  while  for 
a  more  refined  effect  in  the  intimate  portions  of  the  landscape  setting 
the  perennials  and  smaller-growing  vines  are  more  effective.  Most 
embankments  and  rocky  slopes  are  composed  of  sandy,  well-drained, 
and  generally  dry  soil.  Here  plants  such  as  roses,  matrimony  vine, 
and  buffalo  berry  are  valuable  for  their  fruit.  The  honeysuckles  and 
the  yellow-root  are  valuable  for  their  foliage,  and  the  flowering  rasp- 
berry and  prairie  rose  for  their  flowers.  Most  plantings  in  such  sit- 
uations will  require  considerable  care  and  watering  during  the  first  two 
years  after  transplanting.  But  subsequent  to  this  time  these  plants, 
if  properly  selected,  will  continue  to  thrive,  having  been  thoroughly 
acclimated  to  the  new  location. 

Another  valuable  group  of  ground-cover  plants  are  those  which 
are  used  to  fill  crevices  between  stepping-stones  or  between  the  flag- 
ging of  paved  terrace  areas.  This  list  is  composed  of  small-flowering 
and  foliage  plants,  both  perennials  and  annuals,  which  are  usually 
planted  in  small  soil  spaces  between  the  stones.  Their  greatest  value 
is  to  relieve  the  monotonous,  bare  effect  of  walks  and  terra.ce  areas, 
to  which  so  much  interest  would  be  added  by  a  touch  of  colour,  either 
in  foliage  or  flowers,  obtained  through  a  proper  planting  of  well- 
selected  material  included  in  this  group.  Many  of  these  plants,  if  left 
to  themselves,  will  after  the  first  two  or  three  years  spread  rapidly 
and  will  require  much  attention  to  keep  them  within  the  proper  limits. 
Many  paved  walk  and  terrace  areas  are  overplanted  and  consequently 
a  careful  selection  of  a  few  of  these  plants  is  much  better  than  an 
over-supply.  The  rock  cress,  sea  thrift,  stonecrop,  and  creeping  phlox 
are  types  which  are  adapted  to  the  small,  refined  spaces,  while  for 


202 

terraces  on  a  large  scale,  the  dwarf  iris,  evergreen  candytuft,  tunica,  and 
speedwell  are  plants  which  should  be  used.  It  is  quite  probable,  in 
many  instances  on  paved  areas  which  to  be  on  a  firm  foundation  have 
but  a  small  layer  of  loam  between  the  stone  and  the  cinders,  that  these 
plants  will  be  frequently  winter-killed  and  require  replacing.  If  it  so 
happens  that  these  paved  areas  can  be  successfully  laid,  because  of 
local  climatic  conditions,  upon  a  good  depth  of  sandy  loam,  then 
these  plants  must  seldom  be  replaced,  but  rather  frequently  thinned 
out. 

There  are  many  indigenous  mosses  which  can  readily  be  trans- 
planted in  tufts  to  fill  the  crevices  between  the  stones  on  paved  walks, 
thus  presenting  the  appearance  of  age  during  the  first  years  after  con- 
struction. Most  of  the  mosses  require  a  considerable  quantity  of 
water  to  make  them  thrive.  There  are  a  few  varieties,  however, 
found  in  open,  sunny  locations,  that  will  thrive  with  little  moisture. 
Therefore,  before  using  moss  to  fill  the  crevices  between  flags  on  paved 
areas,  the  natural  habitat  of  the  moss  to  be  used  should  be  known. 

In  one  of  the  former  groups  of  plants  for  dry  locations  and  for  em- 
bankments, the  discussion  was  directed  toward  the  effects  of  drying 
out.  There  are  instances  where  the  open  exposure  and  the  effect  of 
the  sun  develop  a  situation  requiring  plants  that  will  withstand  ex- 
treme sun  exposure.  These  plants  can  be  adapted  to  light,  sandy 
soil,  and  they  form  a  small  group,  with  the  stonecrops,  the  Adam's 
needle,  and  the  maiden  pink  as  typical  varieties,  which  may  be  planted 
under  the  most  adverse  conditions  of  exposure  and  sun. 

Quite  often  one  finds  plantations  of  rhododendrons  and  azaleas  which 
have  fallen  just  short  of  being  really  interesting  because  of  the  lack  of 
some  ground-cover  planting  to  give  the  added  and  desired  touch  of  in- 
terest. This  may  be  for  the  purpose  of  relieving  the  bare  ground 
around  the  edges  of  the  plantation,  so  often  covered  in  a  successful 
manner  with  Japanese  spurge,  periwinkles,  ferns,  and  andromedas.  It 
may  be  that  one  desires  a  touch  of  colour  so  often  obtained  by  the 
introduction  of  the  different  types  of  lilies,  which  can  be  successfully 
grown  in  plantations  of  hybrid  rhododendrons.  Especially  in  plantings 
of  large  and  native  rhododendrons,  many  of  these  ground-cover  plants 
can  be  introduced  with  a  great  degree  of  success  to  relieve  the  "leggy" 
appearance  of  these  plants  and  to  make  an  interesting  mat  over  the 
ground  which  might  otherwise  be  more  or  less  bare.  The  ground 
among  rhododendrons  is  subject  to  more  or  less  heavy  shade  for  two 


PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER  203 

reasons.  In  the  first  place,  the  rhododendron  foliage  itself  provides 
considerable  shade  at  the  base  of  the  plant,  and  the  nature  of  the 
rhododendron  plant  requires  shade  for  its  successful  growth.  Con- 
sequently, these  ground-cover  plants  should  be  such  as  are  adapted  to 
the  general  conditions  of  woodland  shade.  It  is  inadvisable  to  culti- 
vate the  soil  around  the  base  of  rhododendrons  and  azaleas.  These 
plants  ought  to  be  such  that  when  once  planted  they  will  require  no 
further  cultivation  other  than  the  addition  of  a  small  amount  of  leaf 
mold  from  year  to  year,  to  provide  the  necessary  food  supply. 

The  last  and  one  of  the  interesting  types  of  ground  cover  is  that 
used  in  the  development  of  rose  gardens,  to  provide  a  mat  of  foliage  or 
flowers  between  the  rose  bushes.  Plants  used  for  this  purpose,  such 
as  the  tufted  pansy,  the  common  verbena,  and  rose  moss,  ought  to  be 
shallow-rooted  types,  with  low,  spreading  characteristics.  The 
reason  why  a  ground  cover  is  desired  in  a  rose  garden  is  that  during  a 
portion  of  the  summer  months  the  ground  is  often  bare.  There  is  an 
argument,  however,  against  the  use  of  any  ground  cover  throughout  the 
rose  garden  in  that  the  constant  cultivation  which  is  the  best  aid  to 
the  good  development  of  roses  cannot  be  done.  Many  of  the  success- 
ful English  rose  gardens  are  filled  with  these  ground-cover  plants. 
Where  plants  of  this  kind  are  used  the  roses  should  be  well  cultivated 
in  the  early  spring  and  should  be  well  cultivated  again  in  the  early  or 
late  fall,  and  they  should  be  well  fertilized  also  to  insure  sufficient  food 
in  the  soil  to  provide  for  both  the  growth  of  the  ground-cover  plants 
and  the  roses.  These  plants,  all  of  which  are  interesting  for  their 
flowering  habits,  provide  an  interesting  group  of  colour  at  a  season 
of  the  year  when  most  of  the  roses  have  passed  the  height  of  their 
bloom. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER 

A.  MOIST  LOCATIONS.  This  group  of  plants  is  adapted  for  loca- 
tions where  the  soil  conditions  are  apt  to  be  continually  moist.  There 
are  some  perennials  which  will  not  thrive  and  will  rot  where  the 
ground  is  continually  moist.  It  is  therefore  desirable  to  have  a  group 
from  which  to  select  plants  when  these  exceptional  conditions  of  soil 
or  drainage  are  encountered. 

Achillea  tomentosa  Alyssum  saxatile  compactum 

Yellow  Milfoil  Golden  Tuft 

Ajuga  reptans  Arabis  alpina 

Bugle  Alpine  Rock  Cress 


204 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Armeria  maritima 

Sea  Thrift 
Asperula  odorata 

Sweet  Woodruff 
Bellis  perennis 

English  Daisy 
Campanula  carpatica 

Carpathian  Harebell 

Daphne  cneorum 

Garland  Flower 
Epigaea  repens 

Trailing  Arbutus 
Erica 

Heath 
Evonymus  radicans 

Climbing  Evonymus 
Evonymus  radicans  acutus 

Hybrid  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Evonymus  radicans  vegetus 

Scarlet-fruited  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Ffstuca  glauca 

Blue  Fescue  Grass 
Funkia  (in  variety) 

Plaintain  Lily 
Helleborus  niger 

Christmas  Rose 


Iberis  sempervirens 

Evergreen  Candytuft 
Iris  florentina 

Orris  Root 
Lysimachia  nummularia 

Moneywort 
Myosotis  palustris 

Forget-me-not 
Nepeta  glechoma 

Ground  Ivy 
Phlox  stolonifera 

Creeping  Phlox 
Phlox  subulata  (in  variety) 

Moss  Pink 
Potentilla  fruticosa 

Shrubby  Cinquefoil 
Saponaria  ocymoides 

Rock  Soapwort 
Stellaria  holostea 

Starwort 
Thymus  serpyllum  lanuginosus 

Downy  Thyme 
Veronica  repens 

Creeping  Speedwell 
Vinca  minor 

Periwinkle 


Herniaria  glabra 
Herniary 


Viola  cornuta 

Tufted  Pansy 
Viola  tricolor 
Pansy 


B.  DRY  LOCATIONS.  The  plants  in  the  following  group  are  es- 
pecially adapted  for  growing  on  slopes  which  are  continuously  more  or 
less  dry.  The  heavy  foliage  of  the  plants  often  forms  a  ground  cover 
which  conserves  the  moisture  and  many  of  them  are  the  deep-rooted 
types  which  will  thrive  on  sandy  soils  where  a  normal  amount  of  water 
is  not  always  available. 

Festuca  glauca 

Blue  Fescue  Grass 
Gaultheria  procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helianthemum  croceum  (protect  in  winter) 

Rock  Rose 
Leiophyllum 

Sand  Myrtle 
Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 
Pachysandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 


Arctostaphylos  uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Arenaria  caespitosa 

Tufted  Sandwort 
Aster  ericoides 

White  Heath  Aster 
Cerastium  tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 

Dianthus  plumarius 
Scotch  Pink 


PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER  205 

Phlox  subulata  Sedum  stoloniferum 

Moss  Pink  Purple  Stonecrop 

Santolina  chamaecyparissus  Tunica  saxijraga 

Lavender  Cotton  Saxifrage-like  Tunica 

Sedum  album  Vinca  minor 

White  Stonecrop  Periwinkle 

Sedum  spurium  Yucca  filamentosa 

Spreading  Stonecrop  Adam's  Needle 

C.  SHADY  LOCATIONS.  The  following  group  of  plants  contains 
only  the  most  common  types  which  have  proved  successful  for  ground 
cover  under  large  trees  and  in  heavily  shaded  situations  on  lawns. 
It  is  best  for  most  of  these  plants  to  have  as  a  basis  for  their  growth 
good  soil,  although  some  of  them,  such  as  the  periwinkle  and  the  Japa- 
nese spurge,  will  grow  under  extreme  conditions  of  light  soil  with  little 
moisture.  For  the  greatest  success  with  this  list  of  plants  they  should 
be  well  moistened  during  dry  spells.  For  supplementary  infor- 
mation on  ground-cover  plants,  in  shaded  locations,  see  sub-group  No. 
XXXI-C. 

Aegopodium  podagraria  Mahonia  repens 

Goutweed  Creeping  Mahonia 

Ajuga  reptans  Mitchella  repens 

Bugle  Partridge  Berry 

Convallaria  majalis  Pachysandra  caroliniana 

Lily-of-the-valley  Carolina  Spurge 

Cornus  canadensis  Pachysandra  terminalis 

Bunchberry  Japanese  Spurge 

Evonymus  obovatus  Polygala  paucifolia 

Running  Strawberry  Bush  Milkwort 

Evonymus  radicans  acutus  Polygonatum  multiflorum 

Hybrid  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy  Solomon's  Seal 

Gaultheria  procumbens  Sanguinaria  canadensis 

Wintergreen  Bloodroot 

Hedera  helix  lobata  Sedum  spurium 

English  Ivy  Spreading  Stonecrop 

Hepatica  triloba  Taxus  canadensis 

Hepatica  Ground  Yew 

Hydrophyllum  appendiculatum  Trillium  erectum  album 

Appendaged  Water  Leaf  White  Wake  Robin 

Hydrophyllum  virginicum  Tussilagofarfara 

Water  Leaf  Colt's  Foot 

Lysimachia  nummularia  Vinca  minor 

Moneywort  Periwinkle 

D.     FERNS.     There  is  a  great  variety  of  ferns  adapted  for  use 
in  different  types  of  soil,  both  as  a  ground  cover  in  the  open  and  more 


2O6 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


dry  shaded  places  and  also  in  the  locations  where  the  ground  is  con- 
tinually moist.  In  sub-group  a  and  sub-group  b  are  listed  the  more 
important  types  of  ferns  which  may  be  selected  for  plantings  where  it 
is  desired  to  use  ferns. 


a.     Dry,  shady  places: 

Asplenium  ebeneum 

Ebony  Spleenwort 
Asplenium  trichomanes 

Maidenhair  Spleenwort 
Aspidium  acrostichoides 

Christmas  Fern 
Aspidium  marginale 

Margined  Fern 


b.     Moist,  shady  places: 

Adiantum  pedatum 

Maidenhair  Fern 
Aspidium  acrostichoides 

Christmas  Fern 
Aspidium  cristatum 

Dwarf  Fern 
Aspidium  goldieanum 

Goldie's  Wood  Fern 
Aspidium  marginale 

Margined  Fern 

Asplenium  filix-foemina 
Lady  Fern 


Camptosorus  rhizophyllus 

Walking  Fern 
Dennstaedtia  punctilobula 

Hay-scented  Fern 
Osmunda  claytoniana 

Clayton's  Fern 
Polypodium  vulgare 

Polypody 
Woodsia  obtusa 
Neat  Fern 


Onoclea  sensibilis 

Sensitive  Fern 
Onoclea  struthiopteris 

Ostrich  Fern 
Osmunda  cinnamomea 

Cinnamon  Fern 
Osmunda  regalis 

Royal  Fern 
Phegopteris  hexagonoptera 

Broad  Beech  Fern 
Woodwardia  virginica 

Virginia  Chain  Fern 


E.  EMBANKMENTS  AND  ROCKY  SLOPES.  This  group  consists  mostly 
of  vines  and  scrambling  types  of  shrubs,  together  with  a  very  few 
interesting  hardy  perennials.  Banks  and  rocky  slopes  do  not  generally 
retain  a  considerable  amount  of  moisture,  and  accordingly  the  material 
which  is  used  should  possess  a  vigorous  constitution  and  low,  spread- 
ing habit  of  growth,  and  the  ability  to  withstand  lack  of  moisture.  The 
embankments  which  are  composed  of  excellent  heavy  types  of  soil,  and 
which  are  constantly  cared  for,  may  be  covered  with  any  of  the  low, 
spreading  types  of  shrubs  and  perennials. 

a.     Shrubs: 


Arctostaphylos  uva-ursi 
Bearberry 


Comptonia  asplenifolia 
Sweet  Fern 


PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER  207 

Cotoneaster  horizontal!*  Rosa  setigera 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster  Prairie  Rose 

Genista  tinctoria  Rosa  spinosissima  altaica 

Dyer's  Greenweed  Scotch  Rose 

Juniperus  (prostrate  forms)  Rubus  crataegifolius 

Red  Cedar  Thorn-leaved  Raspberry 

Kalmia  angustifolia  Rubus  deliciosus 

Sheep  Laurel  Rocky  Mountain  Flowering  Raspberry 

Lonicera  prostrata  Rubus  dumetorum 

Prostrate  Honeysuckle  European  Dewberry 

Lonicera  spinosa  alberti  Rubus  odoratus 

Large-fruited  Honeysuckle  Flowering  Raspberry 

Lonicera  syringantha  Shepherdia  canadinsis 

Heliotrope  Honeysuckle  Canadian  Buffalo  Berry 

Myrica  cerifera  Sorbaria  sorbifolia 

Bayberry  Mountain  Ash-leaved  Spirea 

Rhus  canadensis  Spiraea  salicifolia 

Fragrant  Sumac  Meadow-sweet 

Rhus  copallina  Spiraea  tomentosa 

Shining  Sumac  Hardhack 

Rhus  glabra  Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Smooth  Sumac  Indian-currant 

Rhus  typhina  Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 

Staghorn  Sumac  Yellow-root 

Zanthoxylum  americanum 
Prickly-ash 

b.  Perennials: 

Hypericum  calycinum  Phlox  subulata 

Aaron's  Beard  Moss  Pink 

Pachysandra  terminalis  Vinca  minor 

Japanese  Spurge  Periwinkle 

c.  Fines: 

Ampelopsis  aconitifolia  Evonymus  radicans  acutus 

Cut-leaved  Vitis  Hybrid  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 

Ampelopsis  heterophylla  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Asiatic  Creeper  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Lycium  halimifolium 

Virginia  Creeper  Matrimony  Vine 

Bignonia  radicans  (in  variety)  Periploca  graeca 

Trumpet  Vine  Silk  Vine 

Celastrus  orbiculatus  Pueraria  thunbergiana 

Japanese  Bitter-sweet  Kudzu  Vine 

Celastrus  scandens  Rosa  wichuraiana  (in  variety) 

American  Bitter-sweet  Memorial  Rose 

Vitis  coignetiae 
Crimson  Glory  Vine 


208 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


F.  SMALL-FLOWERING  AND  FOLIAGE  PLANTS  FOR  CREVICES  BE- 
TWEEN STEPPING-STONES  AND  FOR  PAVED  TERRACE  AREAS.  This 
group  consists  of  the  very  dwarf  perennials  and  annuals  which  may  be 
planted  in  the  limited  soil  pockets  between  stepping-stones,  between 
flagging  on  paved  terraces,  and  in  the  narrow  crevices  between  rock 
garden  work.  Most  of  the  indigenous  mosses  which  are  adapted  to 
either  shady  or  sunny  exposures  can  be  readily  transplanted  to  a  cor- 
responding condition,  thus  providing  an  appearance  of  age  during  the 
first  year. 


Arabis  albida 

Rock  Cress 
Arabis  alpina 

Alpine  Rock  Cress 
Armeria  maritima 

Sea  Thrift 
Asperula  odorata  (in  shade) 

Sweet  Woodruff 
Aubrietia  deltoidea 

Purple  Rock  Cress 
Bellis  perennis 

English  Daisy 
Camptosorus  rhizopkyllus 

Walking  Fern 
Cerastium  tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Ceratostigma'^plumbaginoides 

Leadwort 
Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 
Evonymus  radicans  minima 

Small-leaved  Japanese  Evergreen  Ivy 
Goody  era  pubesctns 

Rattle-snake  Plantain 
Iberis  sempervirens 

Evergreen  Candytuft 
Iris  cristata 

Crested  Iris 
Iris  pumila 

Dwarf  Flag 
Iris  verna 

American  Dwarf  Iris 
Linnaea  borealis 

Twin  Flower 


Lotus  corniculatus 

Baby's  Slippers 
Nepeta  glechoma 

Ground  Ivy 
Phlox  stolonifera 

Creeping  Phlox 
Phlox  subulata 

Moss  Pink 
Polemonium  re  plans 

Greek  Valerian 
Primula  veris 

English  Cowslip 
Pyxidantherj,  barbulata 

Flowering  Moss 
Sedum  acre 

Mossy  Stonecrop 
Sempervivum  arachnoideum 

Spiderweb  Houseleek 
Silene  alpestris 

Alpine  Catchfly 
Thymus  serpyllum  lanuginosus 

Downy  Thyme 
Tiarella  cordifolia 

Foam-flower 
Tunica  saxifraga 

Saxifrage-like  Tunica 
Veronica  rupestris 

Rock  Speedwell 
Veronica  teucrium  prostrate 

Speedwell 
Vinca  minor 

Periwinkle 
Viola  pedata 

Bird's  Foot  Violet 


G.  PERENNIALS  ADAPTED  TO  OPEN,  SUNNY  EXPOSURES.  This 
small  list  contains  perennials  which  will  withstand  extreme  exposure 
to  the  sun.  Most  of  these  plants  will  thrive  on  a  light,  sandy  soil. 


PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER 


209 


Armeria  maritima 

Sea  Thrift 
Cerastium  tomentosum 

Snow-in-summer 
Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 
Gaillardia  aristata 

Blanket  Flower 
Phlox  subulata 

Moss  Pink 


Sedum  acre 

Mossy  Stonecrop 
Sedum  sexangulare 

Dark  Green  Stonecrop 
Sempervivum  (in  variety) 

Houseleek 
Veronica  repens 

Creeping  Speedwell 
Yucca  filamentosa 

Adam's  Needle 


H.  GROUND  COVER  AMONG  RHODODENDRONS  AND  AZALEAS. 
This  group  contains  plants  which  are  excellently  adapted  to  the  same 
kind  of  soil  and  the  same  kind  of  treatment  as  are  the  types  of  rhodo- 
dendrons and  azaleas  with  which  they  are  used.  Many  of  these  plants 
such  as  the  lilies,  hypericums,  and  some  others,  provide  flowers  during  a 
portion  of  the  season  when  the  large  shrubs  are  not  in  flower. 


Aronia  arbutifolia 

Red  Chokeberry 
Asarum  canadense 

Wild  Ginger 
Chamae 'daphne  calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster 
Erythronium  (in  variety) 

Adder' s-tongue 
Fern  (in  variety) 

Fern. 


Goodyera  pubescens 

Rattle-snake  Plantain 
Helonias  bullata 

Swamp-pink 
Houstonia  caerulea 

Bluet 
Hypericum  calycinum 

Aaron's  Beard 
Hypericum  moserianum 

Gold-flower 
Ilex  glabra 

Inkberry 
Ledum  groenlandicum 

Labrador  Tea 
Leiophyllum  (in  variety) 

Mountain  Heath 


Leucothoe  catesbaei 

Catesby's  Andromeda 
Lilium  canadense 

Wild  Yellow  Lily 
Lilium  pardalinum 

Panther  Lily 
Lilium  speciosum 

Japanese  Lily 
Lilium  superbum 

Turks'  Cap  Lily 
Lilium  tenuifolium 

Siberian  Coral  Lily 
Mertensia  virginica 

Bluebell 
Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 
Pachy sandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 
Pieris  (in  variety) 

Fetterbush 
Pyxidanthera  barbulata 

Flowering  Moss 
Rhodora  canadensis 

Rhodora 
Shortia  galacifolia 

Shortia 
Taxus  canadensis 

Ground  Yew 
Trillium  (in  variety) 

Wake  Robin 


210  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Vinca  minor  Viola  (in  variety) 

Periwinkle  Violet 

Vinca  minor  alba  Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia 

White  Periwinkle  Yellow-root 

I.  GROUND  COVER  AMONG  ROSES.  Many  persons  object  to  the 
bare  ground  existing  among  roses.  For  the  best  success  in  growing 
roses  every  opportunity  should  be  provided  for  cultivating  the 
area  around  each  rosebush.  During  a  portion  of  the  season,  however, 
this  bareness  of  the  soil  can  be  overcome  by  the  use  of  an  interesting 
carpet,  providing  colour  at  a  season  of  the  year  when  the  roses  have 
passed  the  height  of  their  bloom.  Any  ground-cover  planting  among 
roses  should  be  watched  carefully  in  order  to  eliminate  the  possi- 
bility that  the  ground-cover  plants  absorb  food  which  should  remain 
for  the  rose  plants,  or  that  they  should  prevent  cultivation  at  a  time 
when  the  roses  need  cultivating. 

Alyssum  maritimum  Portulaca  grandiflora 

Sweet  Alyssum  Rose  Moss 

Dianthus  heddewigi  Reseda  odorata 

Japanese  Pink  Mignonette 

Petunia  hybrida  Verbena  hybrida 

Petunia  Verbena 

Phlox  drummondi  Viola  cornuta  (in  variety) 

Annual  Phlox  Tufted  Pansy 

Viola  tricolor 
Pansy 


CHAPTER  XXX 
GAME  COVER  PLANTS 

WHEN  selecting  ground-cover  plants  and  undergrowth  plants 
for  locations  which  are  naturally  attractive  to  birds,  especially  the 
game  birds,  it  is  possible  to  provide  a  more  inviting  "sanctuary"  for 
these  birds  by  the  use  of  plants  which  produce  food  either  in  the  way 
of  buds  and  foliage,  or  of  nuts  and  seeds.  These  plants  are  mostly 
native  species  and  many  of  them  are  not  offered  in  the  catalogs  of 
the  growers  of  ornamental  plants.  They  could  be  easily  collected 
where  they  occur  locally  or  secured  from  some  of  the  collectors  of 
native  plants.  Seeds  also  might  be  easily  collected  and  sown  where 
they  are  to  grow.  These  game  cover  plants  should  be  established  in 
areas  ranging  from  one  hundred  feet  square  to  a  number  of  acres,  to 
provide  combined  shelter  and  food  for  several  kinds  of  birds  at  one 
time.  The  location  of  these  plantings  should  be  chosen  so  that  they 
will  not  need  to  be  disturbed  for  some  years,  and  will  also  be  within 
easy  flying  distance  of  dense  woods,  if  possible.  An  ideal  location 
would  be  in  a  clearing  entirely  surrounded  by  woods  which  contain 
hemlocks  or  pines  or  other  dense  shelter. 

Not  only  will  such  plants  used  as  a  bird-sanctuary  attract  our 
permanent  bird  residents  such  as  the  ruffed  grouse,  bob  white,  gold- 
finches, nuthatches,  and  chickadees,  but  they  will  attract  many  other 
seed-eating  birds  until  the  cold  weather  drives  them  south. 

LIST  OF  GAME  COVER  PLANTS 

The  following  group  of  plants  are  valuable  for  use  as  ground  cover 
where  there  is  also  a  chance  to  provide  suitable  shelters  for  game 
birds,  especially  grouse.  These  groups  are :  (A)  Plants  of  which  the 
buds,  blossoms,  and  foliage  are  eaten  by  game  birds,  and  (B)  Plants 
of  which  the  nuts  or  seeds  are  eaten  by  game  birds.  These  are  mostly 
native  plants. 

211 


212 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


A.     Foliage,  Suds,  and  Blossoms  (Spring  Cover): 


Acer  (in  variety) 

Maple 
Alnus  (in  variety) 

Alder 
Aster  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Aster 
Astilbe  biternata 

False  Goat's  Beard 
Azalea  (in  variety) 

Azalea 
Benzoin  aestivale 

Spice  Bush 
Betula  (in  variety) 

Birch 
Corylus  (in  variety) 

Hazelnut 
Epigaea  repens 

Trailing  Arbutus 
Equisetum  hyemalf! 

Horse-tail  Rushes 
Fagus  (in  variety) 

Beech 
Heuchera  (in  variety) 

Coral-bells 
Kalmia  (in  variety) 
•  Laurel 
Mitchella  repens 

Partridge  Berry 
Ostrya  virginiana 

Hop  Hornbeam 
Oxalis  (in  variety) 

Wood  Sorrel 
Picea  ^in  variety) 

Spruce 


Populus  (in  variety) 

Poplar 
Portulaca  oleracea 

Purslane 
Prunus  (in  variety) 

Wild  Cherry  and  Plum 

Pyrus  (in  variety) 

Crab 
Ranunculus  (in  variety) 

Buttercup 
Rubus  (in  variety)      -^ 

Brambles 
Salix  (in  variety) 

Willow 

Sambucus  (in  variety) 

Elderberry 
Saxifraga  (in  variety) 

Stone-breaker 
Smilax  (in  variety) 

Greenbrier 
Stellaria  media 

Chickweed 
Taraxacum  officinale 

Dandelion 
Thalictrum  (in  variety) 

Meadow-rue 
Thuja  (in  variety) 

Arborvitae 
Trifolium  (in  variety) 

Clover 
Vaccinium  (in  variety) 

Blueberry 
Veronica  (in  variety) 

Speedwell 


B.    Nuts  or  Seeds  (Autumn  Cover). 

Acer  (in  variety) 

Maple 
Belamcanda  chinensis 

Blackberry  Lily 
Bidens  frondosa 

Sticktight 
Carex  (in  variety) 

Sedge 
Castanea  (in  variety) 

Chestnut 


Corylus  (in  variety) 

Hazelnut  x 
\        Fagus  americana 

Beechnut 
Geum  (in  variety) 

Avens 
Hamamelis  virginiana 

Witch  Hazel 
Helianthemum  canadense 

Frost-weed 


GAME  COVER  PLANTS 


213 


Impatiens  pallida 

Jewel-weed 
Lfptamnium  virginianum 

Beechdrop 
Meiboma  (in  variety) 

Tick  Trefoil 
Ostrya  virginiana 

Hop  Hornbeam 
Pinus  rigida 

Pitch  Pine 


Ficia  (in  variety) 
Vetch 


Polygonum  persicaria 

Lady's  Thumb 
Quercus  (in  variety) 

Oak 
Rumex  acetosella 

Sheep  Sorrel 
Stellaria  media 

Chickweed 
Tsuga  canadensis 

Canadian  Hemlock 


CHAPTER  XXXI 
PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES 

WHETHER  to  use  annuals  or  perennials,  what  perennials  to  use  for 
different  flowering  effects,  and  how  to  take  care  of  the  perennial  garden 
are  important  questions,  the  correct  answers  to  which  make  for  the 
success  or  failure  of  a  flower  garden.  A  flower  garden  in  itself  is  the 
intimate  companion  either  of  those  who  own  it  and  enjoy  working  in 
it,  or  of  those  who  are  only  sufficiently  interested  to  be  thoroughly 
satisfied  when  an  interesting  flower  effect  is  produced.  There  is  no  part 
of  the  field  of  landscape  design,  from  the  standpoint  of  the  professional 
designer,  from  which  so  much  criticism  can  arise  as  through  the  failure 
to  produce  an  interesting  flower  garden.  It  is  useless  to  discuss  the 
question  of  taste,  concerning  the  individual  preferences  for  various 
colours  of  garden  flowers;  yet  to  everyone  the  successful  garden  im- 
plies a  garden  filled  with  flowers.  The  proper  relationship  between  the 
unusual  types  and  unusual  effects  becomes  a  secondary  and  yet  an 
important  consideration. 

The  success  of  a  perennial  planting  does  not  rest  entirely  with 
the  proper  selection  and  proper  planting  of  perennials.  A  perennial 
garden  cannot  stand  still.  It  cannot  be  made  to-day  and  exist  to- 
morrow without  some  care.  Many  gardens  in  which  the  types  of 
plants  have  been  selected  with  extra  care  have  completely  failed  be- 
cause whoever  was  responsible  for  their  subsequent  maintenance  has 
not  understood  the  nature  and  requirements  of  the  plants  with  which 
he  was  dealing.  The  general  rule  can  be  laid  down  for  the  success  of 
any  perennial  garden  that  the  one  who  assumes  responsibility  for  its 
success  must  be  as  intimately  acquainted  with  the  plants,  their 
habits  and  requirements,  as  with  the  members  of  one's  own  family. 

TREES,  AND  THEIR  EFFECT  ON  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN.  The  old 
saying  is  true,  either  the  flower  effect  of  the  garden  or  the  quantity  of 
flowers  cut  for  house  use  must  be  greatly  reduced  if  the  same  garden 
is  to  serve  two  purposes.  It  is  also  true  that  trees  and  desirable  sorts  of 

214 


PLATE  XXXI.  It  is  quite  important  in  the  planting  of  the  spring  garden 
that  the  designer  should  know  those  shrubs  which  produce  flowers  before  the 
leaves  appear,  similar  to  the  Carolina  azalea  (B),  and  those  early-flowering 
shrubs  which  produce  flowers  and  leaves  at  the  same  time,  similar  to  the 
bladdernut  (A).  (See  page  154,  group  XIX-A) 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES         215 

garden  flowers  seldom  grow  in  nature  together.  Most  of  the  garden 
flowering  plants  demand  ample  sunlight  for  their  best  development. 
For  those  who  develop  homes,  and  attempt  the  making  of  a  flower 
garden  on  areas  covered  with  dense  shade  of  large  trees,  it  is  impossible 
to  provide  the  ideal  flower  garden  which  one  may  have  wished  so  often 
to  possess.  Trees  must  be  sacrificed,  or  soil  conditions  will  be  too  wet 
or  too  dry.  Spreading  roots  from  such  trees  will  steal  plant  food  from 
the  garden,  and  sunlight  so  essential  for  the  development  of  fine 
flowers  will  be  shut  out.  The  true  garden  lover  who  realizes  that 
plants,  like  human  beings,  thrive  only  in  congenial  and  healthful 
surroundings  will  either  love  and  preserve  his  trees  or  will  have  the 
courage  of  his  convictions  to  remove  unnecessary  trees  and  give 
to  his  flower  garden  ideal  conditions  of  air  and  sunlight.  Morning 
sunlight  is  generally  considered  more  effective  in  producing  plant 
growth  than  afternoon  sunlight. 

Trees  on  the  north  side  of  a  garden  are  seldom  objectionable; 
but  most  trees  within  the  garden  or  on  the  south  and  west  side  are  very 
undesirable. 

Persons  who  are  planting  a  perennial  garden  for  the  first  time, 
and  who  are  not  familiar  with  the  flowering  types  of  perennials,  should 
adhere,  in  the  selection  of  plants,  to  a  few  hardy  types  of  perennials, 
such  as  the  iris,  the  phlox,  the  larkspur,  the  chrysanthemum,  and  the 
columbine,  together  with  others  shown  in  this  list  (XXXI-A).  All 
of  these,  with  average  care,  are  certain  to  produce  flowers.  The  more 
unusual  types  can  be  selected  and  introduced  into  the  garden  as  one's 
knowledge  of  them  increases. 

For  a  person  who  is  a  lover  of  garden  flowers,  and  who  attempts  to 
procure  definite  colour  combinations  during  different  periods  of  the 
growing  season,  it  is  well  to  outline  groups  of  perennials,  from  each  of 
which  material  may  be  selected  to  produce  the  desired  effect.  We 
should  associate  perennials  in  groups  for  season  and  colour  in  order  to 
use  them  most  successfully.  This  knowledge  comes  only  with  a 
certain  experience.  There  also  may  be  plants  found  outside  of  these 
groups  which  can  be  used  to  advantage.  The  object  in  compiling 
these  groups  has  been  to  establish  a  definite  reference  list  from  which 
the  more  important  types  can  readily  be  found  and  associated  in  one's 
mind  with  the  definite  purpose  for  which  they  can  be  best  used. 
Frequently,  as  a  matter  of  taste,  one  person  may  desire  a  garden  with 
yellows  and  blues  predominating.  Another  may  desire  a  garden  with 


2i6  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

pinks  and  whites.  It  is  essential  that  one  should  be  able  to  readily 
and  definitely  select  plants  for  these  different  purposes. 

The  woodland  wild  garden  becomes  an  important  problem  because 
the  selection  of  material  adapted  to  partially  shaded  conditions  existing 
in  such  garden  areas  does  not  present  the  same  problems  as  the  selection 
of  a  type  of  material  adapted  to  a  sunny,  open  exposure.  The  term 
"wild  garden"  applies  to  the  use  of  plants  which  can  be  naturalized; 
plants  which,  when  once  planted  and  given  normal  care  during  the 
first  year,  will  become  thoroughly  acclimated  and  continue  to  grow 
vigorously  and  multiply  as  the  years  go  by.  In  the  selection  of 
material  there  are  two  types  of  plants  which  can  be  selected:  the 
tall-growing  types  and  the  low-growing  types.  The  low-growing 
types  are  adapted  for  use  in  the  more  intimate,  small  garden  areas, 
where  the  taller  types  should  be  used  with  great  care.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  many  types  of  wild  garden  perennials,  such  as  the 
day  lilies,  the  bergamot,  and  the  Japanese  loosestrife,  will  multiply  so 
rapidly  that  they  will  crowd  out  many  of  the  less  vigorous  plants 
such  as  hepatica  and  spring  beauty  which  are  not  able  to  survive  such 
competition.  Consequently  it  is  not  safe  to  say  that  material  selected 
for  wild  garden  areas  does  not  require  a  certain  amount  of  care  after 
the  first  planting  of  the  garden.  It  should  also  be  borne  very  definitely 
in  mind  that  plants  such  as  the  cardinal  flower,  some  irises,  the  blazing 
star,  the  lily-of-the-valley,  the  cowslip,  and  the  violet  require  partial 
shade  and  a  moist  condition  of  the  soil,  while  such  types  as  the  bee- 
balm,  sweet  william,  asters,  and  moss  pink  thrive  in  a  much  more  ex- 
posed and  lighter  soil.  The  success  of  a  wild  garden,  either  large  or 
small,  depends  very  largely  upon  the  proper  selection  of  materials  to 
produce  the  required  effects.  The  development  of  wild  garden  plant- 
ing requires  a  series  of  years  in  which  to  complete  it  and  bring  it  to 
perfection.  It  is  a  process,  beyond  a  certain  point,  of  the  survival  of 
the  fittest,  and  the  elimination  finally  of  those  plants  which  prove 
through  the  first  few  years  their  inability  to  meet  the  soil  and  exposure 
requirements  of  the  local  situation.  A  successful  wild  garden  area 
never  shows  the  amount  of  work  that  has  been  expended  in  its  develop- 
ment, because  every  detail  looks  finally  as  though  nature  had  pro- 
vided it  without  the  assistance  of  man. 

Perennials  for  wild  garden  planting  are  not  in  use  as  much  as  they 
should  be  even  in  extensive  estate  development,  because  of  the 
lack  of  knowledge  concerning  the  ability  of  many  of  the  wild  flowers 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          217 

to  adapt  themselves  to  these  new  environments.  Yet  this  group  of 
plants  provides  to  those  who  are  really  interested  in  the  development 
of  our  wild  flowers  an  excellent  source  of  satisfaction.  In  this  day  of 
large  country  estates  with  the  varying  types  of  garden  conditions  there 
is  no  reason  why  the  wild  garden  consisting  of  plants  which  have  be- 
come naturalized  should  not  be  as  important  as  any  other  type  of 
garden,  especially  to  those  who  are  real  garden  lovers.  It  is  true  that 
many  of  these  plants,  such  as  the  varieties  of  the  native  ferns,  require 
special  conditions  of  the  soil  from  a  standpoint  of  soil  texture,  special 
conditions  of  the  soil  from  the  standpoint  of  moisture,  and  also  special 
conditions  of  exposure  concerning  the  question  of  open  sunlight  and  the 
question  of  shade.  It  is  unfair  to  expect  that  any  plants  which  we 
attempt  to  naturalize  in  the  wild  garden  development  will  continue 
to  grow  under  conditions  which  are  exactly  opposite  from  the  condi- 
tions of  nature  in  which  these  plants  have  been  living  a  "happy"  exist- 
ence in  their  surroundings  of  soil  and  sunlight.  The  wild  garden 
requires,  more  than  anything  else,  a  soil  which  contains  plenty  of 
humus  and  is  commonly  termed  leaf  mold  soil.  If  such  soil  is  not 
available  then  only  well-rotted  manure  or  compost  should  be  used. 
No  fertilizer  such  as  sheep  manure,  dried  blood,  or  other  fertilizers 
commonly  used  for  the  forcing  of  plants  should  be  applied  to  wild 
garden  material. 

In  the  use  of  perennials  another  problem  is  often  met:  that  of  select- 
ing proper  types  for  planting  at  the  water's  edge.  These  plants  must 
be  of  the  kind  that  will  thrive  with  their  "feet  in  water."  The  group 
from  which  selection  can  be  made  is  comparatively  limited,  especially 
with  reference  to  genera.  Many  of  these  plants,  such  as  the  lemon 
lily,  the  loosestrife,  and  the  iris  will  soon  spread  beyond  control  if  not 
carefully  thinned  out  and  kept  within  bounds  during  the  succeeding 
years.  Most  of  this  material  is  adapted  to  growth  in  the  open  sun  and 
will  not  withstand  extreme  shade  conditions. 

In  the  selection  of  perennials  to  be  used  in  the  development  of  the 
large  flower  garden  areas  the  entire  field  of  perennials  is  open  from 
which  to  choose.  The  development  of  a  small,  refined  flower  garden, 
the  intimate  details  of  which  add  to  its  charm,  requires  a  more  careful 
knowledge  of  perennials,  especially  of  those  which  usage  has  proven 
cannot  be  safely  introduced  into  such  limited  areas.  These  types  of 
perennials  should  be  avoided  in  the  development  of  a  small  flower 
garden.  They  can  be  used  by  one  who  will  give  them  consistent  at- 


218  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

tention  to  keep  them  within  bounds  by  staking  and  cutting  back. 
Otherwise  they  will  produce  a  loose,  ragged  effect  not  in  keeping  with 
the  neat  lines  desired  in  a  small  garden,  and  will  often  crowd  out  inter- 
esting types  of  smaller  perennials  which  mean  more  to  the  success  of 
the  garden. 

Most  varieties  of  the  hardy  aster  or  Michaelmas  daisy,  the  sneeze- 
weed,  the  loosestrife,  and  the  plume  poppy  are  too  rampant  and 
vigorous  in  their  habit  of  growth  to  be  successful  in  a  small  garden. 

The  most  important  requirement  in  the  development  of  any  flower 
garden  is  to  provide  perpetual  bloom  throughout  the  growing  season. 
There  are  a  variety  of  combinations  of  perennials  which  can  be  used 
to  accomplish  this  purpose.  As  illustrative  of  a  possible  range  of 
plants  it  is  well  to  list  some  of  the  thoroughly  tested  varieties  that  will 
grow  in  any  good  garden  soil  and  which  will  provide  flowers  from  early 
spring  until  late  fall.  For  a  person  who  understands  plants  to  some 
extent  the  lists  of  perennials,  grouped  according  to  colour  and  season, 
will  make  an  excellent  source  of  reference  from  which  to  select  types  for 
continuous  blooming  effects. 

There  are  some  perennials,  among  the  most  important  of  which  are 
the  peony,  of  which  the  blooming  period  is  very  short  and  the  foliage 
effect  during  a  great  part  of  the  summer  may  be  consequently  mo- 
notonous and  uninteresting.  In  such  plants  it  is  highly  desirable 
to  have  touches  of  colour  throughout  the  later  parts  of  the  season. 
To  accomplish  this  there  can  be  introduced,  among  the  peony  plants, 
such  types  as  the  monkshood,  the  blazing  star,  lilies  and  gladioli,  to 
provide  flowers  and  add  interest  to  the  otherwise  monotonous  mass  of 
green  leaves. 

A  considerable  part  of  the  success  of  any  perennial  flower  garden 
is  the  presence  of  groups  of  perennials  which  present  good  blooming 
combinations.  Often  a  garden  is  seen  where  some  particular  colour 
note  attracts  special  attention.  On  close  examination  it  is  found  that 
this  effect  is  produced  by  a  combination  of  colour  brought  about  by 
the  successful  grouping  of  two  or  more  perennials.  The  average 
garden  lover  cannot  become  familiar,  from  his  limited  study  of  plants, 
with  all  of  the  interesting  types  of  perennials  which  produce  colour 
effects  that  harmonize  with  each  other.  A  list  of  these  groupings 
has  been  included  in  this  chapter,  and  through  further  study  many 
others  may  be  found  which  will  be  equally  effective. 

Annuals  are  most  often  planted  because  of  their  ability  to  produce 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          219 

flowers  for  cutting.  Many  perennials  are  planted  for  this  same 
purpose.  There  are  a  few  perennials,  such  as  the  blanket  flower, 
ball  of  snow,  larkspur,  and  marguerite,  which  are  benefited  by  con- 
stant cutting,  and  the  flowering  season  of  which  is  lengthened  through 
this  process.  There  are  other  perennials,  such  as  the  foxglove,  peony, 
and  iris,  with  which  the  process  of  cutting  flowers  does  not  encourage 
growth  of  others  during  the  same  season.  If  such  perennials  are 
to  be  used  for  cut-flower  purposes  it  is  best  to  plant  them  in  a  distinct 
cut-flower  garden.  The  same  discussion  concerning  a  cut-flower 
garden,  and  a  flower  garden  as  an  interesting  design,  applies  to  the 
planting  of  perennials  in  the  same  manner  that  it  applies  to  the 
planting  of  annuals  (See  Chapter  XXXII,  Page  238). 

The  majority  of  perennials  will  continue  to  increase  from  year  to 
year  and  will  require  "dividing"  and  transplanting  every  two  or  three 
years.  There  are  other  perennials  which  should  be  treated  as  biennials 
and  accordingly  replaced  completely  by  new  plants  at  the  end  of  every 
second  year.  These  plants,  such  as  the  foxglove,  white  pink,  English 
daisy,  and  bellflower  will  "run  out"  after  a  period  of  two  or  three  years. 
They  will  still  continue  to  grow,  but  their  vigour  will  be  so  much  less 
that  their  presence  will  be  but  an  apology  for  strong,  healthy  speci- 
mens. All  of  these  plants  are  known  as  perennials;  but  in  reality 
they  develop  only  as  biennials.  Other  perennials,  such  as  the  aster, 
phlox,  and  iris,  which  grow  into  large  clumps,  should  be  divided  at 
least  every  three  years.  If  they  are  not  so  treated  they  will  become 
crowded  and  the  plants  will  not  have  space  to  develop  properly  and 
the  result  will  be  spindly,  unhealthy  plants  which  will  not  produce 
normal  flower  effects.  But  the  peony,  in  good  soil,  with  space  of  a 
diameter  of  approximately  three  feet  in  which  to  grow,  is  best  left  to 
grow  undisturbed  for  a  score  of  years  or  more  (Page  88). 

Taken  on  the  whole,  no  more  picturesque  or  graceful  effects  can  be 
produced  anywhere  than  by  appropriate  planting  along  the  banks  of 
ponds  and  streams.  The  more  bold  and  picturesque  a  planting  mass 
is,  the  better  it  looks  when  reflected  in  a  still  pool;  while  the  flowing 
lines  of  a  stream  are  supplemented  by  the  graceful,  arching  branches  of 
shrubs  and  vines.  Among  the  most  successful  and  beautiful  plants 
for  watersides  are  the  herbaceous  perennials. 

Perennials  for  planting  in  deep  water  are  largely  confined  to  the  lotus 
and  water  lilies.  These  plants  should  not  be  permanently  planted  in 
ponds  which  freeze  solid  during  the  winter,  nor  where  there  is  not 


220  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

plenty  of  rich  soil  on  the  bottom,  and  an  abundance  of  clear  water  and 
uninterrupted  sunlight.  The  best  locations  are  on  the  margins  of 
sluggish  streams  and  of  bays  and  in  sheltered  nooks.  Water  which 
flows  too  swiftly  or  is  too  cold  or  contains  mud  is  not  good  for  aquatic 
plants,  nor  should  they  be  planted  in  newly  constructed  cement  tanks 
which  have  not  been  thoroughly  washed  and  rinsed  so  as  to  remove  all 
the  caustic  property  of  the  new  cement.  The  best  fertilizer  for 
aquatic  plants  is  cow  manure,  which  may  be  mixed  with  twice  its 
bulk  of  strong  loam  and  used  for  planting  beds. 

In  the  water  near  the  margin  of  a  pond  many  more  sorts  of  aquatic 
and  bog  plants  may  be  used,  such  as  the  native  irises  or  flags,  water 
plantains,  bulrushes,  arrowheads,  and  marsh  marigolds.  These 
plants  are  more  hardy  and  less  exacting  in  their  requirements.  In- 
deed, they  are  likely,  when  congenial  conditions  occur,  to  grow  so 
luxuriantly  as  to  prove  annoying  if  planted  in  very  large  quantities. 
A  rich  alluvial  mud  provides  the  proper  soil  for  most  sorts,  and  once 
established  where  there  is  not  too  much  lime  in  the  water,  or  too  swift 
a  current,  they  will  take  care  of  themselves. 

For  planting  on  the  land  at  the  water's  side,  a  still  larger  list  of  plants 
is  available.  These  include  many  of  our  common  herbaceous  garden 
perennials,  such  as  sneeze-weed,  Japanese  iris,  and  lemon  lily,  as  well  as 
native  herbs,  such  as  gentians,  cow  parsnips,  and  some  of  our  native 
orchids.  With  these  perennials  should  be  combined,  if  possible,  some 
of  the  moisture-loving  native  shrubs.  For  this  purpose  nothing  is  bet- 
ter than  the  swamp  honeysuckle,  button  bush,  red  chokeberry,  rhodora, 
leather  leaf,  and  wild  rosemary,  not  to  mention  the  more  commonly 
known  dogwoods  or  cornels. 

If  no  special  place  is  assigned  to  perennials,  room  may  always  be 
found  for  some  in  the  shrub  border.  Here  there  should  be  reluctance 
to  place  any  sorts  that  require  considerable  culture  or  the  full  develop- 
ment of  which  might  be  desired,  particularly  if  they  be  sorts  that  are 
prized.  One  would  be  loath  to  subject  a  valuable  variety  of  the  peony, 
for  example,  to  a  life-long  competition  with  vigorous  shrubs  which, 
in  addition  to  sending  out  more  rapid-growing  roots,  would  have  the 
advantage  of  overtopping  it.  But  there  are  certain  types  of  perennials 
that  can,  in  every  way,  be  appropriately  used  to  fill  bare  spaces  among 
shrubs  that  do  not  yet  cover  all  the  space,  or  at  the  front  edge  of  the 
border.  Here  at  the  edge,  if  the  shrubs  do  not  droop  too  low  or  are 
not  too  vigorous  in  their  habit  of  growth,  may  be  found  a  place  for  a 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES         221 

fine  thing  like  the  evergreen  candytuft.  In  the  edge  of  the  shrubbery 
bed  can  always  be  found  room  for  some  bulbs;  they  really  seem  to 
prefer  the  slight  protection  of  the  overhanging  branches  and  the  soil 
around  the  roots  of  the  other  plants.  An  additional  consideration  is 
that  the  flowering  season  of  bulbs  is  not  encroached  upon  by  the  foliage 
of  the  shrubs,  as  would  occur  to  the  detriment  of  perennials  that 
flower  later  in  the  year.  Formal  regularity  in  planting  should  be 
avoided  because  most  perennials  and  bulbs  appear  best  in  small  masses 
or  clumps. 

In  designing  a  border  planting  of  perennials  or  annuals  located  at  the 
edge  of  masses  of  shrubs  an  ample  width  of  four  or  five  feet  should  be 
allowed,  especially  if  this  is  the  only  place  for  the  development  of  a 
flower  border.  Unless  this  provision  is  made  and  frequent  pruning 
of  the  shrubs  resorted  to,  the  branches  of  the  shrubs  even  then  are  apt 
to  encroach  upon  the  smaller  plants  at  the  front.  This  does  not, 
however,  apply  to  bulbs.  Where  it  is  necessary  to  develop  a  flower 
border  in  combination  with  a  border  of  shrubs  which  shall  serve  as  its 
background,  little  success  will  follow  the  attempt  to  develop  such  a 
border,  especially  in  relation  to  tall-growing  shrubs,  if  the  flower 
border  is  placed  upon  the  north  side.  If  the  shrub  border  or  hedge 
is  to  consist  of  tall  and  vigorous-growing  shrubs  or  columnar  trees  to 
provide  a  screen  against  objectionable  views,  the  designer  must  always 
remember  that  competition  of  perennials  with  the  greedy  root  systems 
of  such  plants  will  starve  the  perennials. 

LIST  OF  PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES 

A.  TYPES  OF  HARDY  PERENNIALS  FOR  GENERAL  USE.  For  the 
average  person  who  is  developing  a  small  garden  a  knowledge  of  some 
of  the  standard  types  of  hardy  perennials,  which  are  well  adapted  for 
general  use,  will  often  meet  the  requirements.  This  group  contains 
standard  types  of  perennials  which  are  adapted  for  general  use,  and 
which  with  ordinary  cultivation  will  produce  interesting  flower  effects. 

Anemone  japonica  Chrysanthemum 

Japanese  Windflower  Chrysanthemum 

Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi  Delphinium 

Hardy  Marguerite  Larkspur 

Aquilegia  Dianthus 

Columbine  Pink 

Aster  Doronicum  plantagineum 

Aster  Leopard's  Bane 


222  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Iris  Paeonia 

Iris  Peony 

Lilium  Phlox 

Lily  Phlox 
Viola 
Violet 

B.  PERENNIALS  ACCORDING  TO  COLOUR  AND  SEASON.  This,  with 
its  sub-groups,  is  an  interesting  group.  The  division  of  seasons  in 
these  groups  is  merely  relative  and  is  made  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
some  relationship  in  the  succession  of  bloom  throughout  the  growing 
season.  Many  perennials  in  these  groups  lap  over  from  one  group 
into  the  other,  but  for  convenience  of  reference  they  are  listed  only 
in  the  season  during  which  they  are  at  their  height  of  bloom.  The 
subdivisions  into  colours  of  flowers,  as  a  matter  of  easy  reference,  will 
prove  valuable  as  a  check  on  one's  memory  and  a  saving  of  time  in 
being  able  to  readily  select  flowers  for  varying  colour  effects  at  differ- 
ent seasons. 

a.  Perennials  for  spring — purple,  lavender,  or  Hue  flowers: 

Ajuga  genevensis  Mertensia  virginica 

Erect  Bugle  Bluebell 

Anchusa  italica  Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens 

Italian  Alkanet  Forget-me-not 

Aquilegia  caerulea  hybrida  Polemonium  reptans 

Rocky  Mountain  Columbine  Greek  Valerian 

Aubrietia  deltoidea  graeca  Primula  denticulata 

Grecian  Purple  Rock  Cress  Himalayan  Primrose 

Iris  cristata  Saxifraga  cordifolia 

Crested  Iris  Saxifrage 

Iris  germanica  hybrids  Tradescantia 

German  Iris  Spiderwort 

Iris  pumila  azurea  Veronica  incana 

European  Dwarf  Iris  Hoary  Speedwell 

Iris  versicolor  Vinca  minor 

Dwarf  Blue  Flag  Periwinkle 

Linum  perenne  Viola  cornuta 

Perennial  Flax  Tufted  Pansy 

Viola  odorata 
Scented  Violet 

b.  Perennials  for  spring — white  flowers: 

Anemone  pennsylvanica  Aquilegia  nivea  grandiflora 

Canadian  Windflower  White  Columbine 

Anemone  sylvestris  Arabis  albida 

Snowdrop  Windflower  Rock  Cress 


PLATE  XXXIII.  As  a  specimen  flowering  plant  for  early  spring  effect,  the 
Japanese  weeping  rose-flowered  cherry  is  extremely  interesting  covered,  al- 
ways before  the  leaves  appear,  with  an  abundance  of  rose-pink  flowers.  (See 
page  154,  group  XIX- A) 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          223 

Arabis  alpina  Paeonia  officinalis  alba 

Alpine  Rock  Cress  Old-fashioned  Peony 

Armeria  maritima  alba  Paeonia  suffruticosa 

White  Sea  Thrift  Tree  Peony 

Cerastium  tomentosum  Phlox  subulata  alba 

Snow-in-summer  White  Ground  Pink 

Convallaria  majalis  Sanguinaria  canadensis 

Lily-of-the-valley  Blood  root 

Dianthus  plumarius  Stellaria  holostea  • 

Scotch  Pink  Starwort 

Helleborus  niger  Thalictrum  aquilegifolium 

Christmas  Rose  Meadow-rue 

Iberis  sempervirens  Trillium  grandiflorum 

Evergreen  Candytuft  Large-flowered  Wake  Robin 
Viola  cornuta  alba 
Horned  Violet 


c.  Perennials  for  spring — pink  to  crimson  flowers: 

Aquilegia  canadensis  Geum  coccineum 

American  Columbine  Avens 

Aquilegia  formosa  hybrida  Heuchera  sanguinea 

California  Hybrid  Columbine  Coral-bells 

Aquilegia  hybrida  Rose  Queen  Iris  germanica  Queen  of  May 

Hybrid  Pink  Columbine  Pink  German  Iris 

Armeria  maritima  laucheana  Paeonia  officinalis 

Lauch's  Sea  Thrift  Old-fashioned  Red  Peony 

Bellis  perennis  Paeonia  suffruticosa 

English  Daisy  Tree  Peony 

Dianthus  deltoides  Paeonia  tenuifolia 

Maiden  Pink  Fennel-leaved  Peony 

Dianthus  plumarius  Phlox  stolonifera 

Scotch  Pink  Creeping  Phlox 

Dicentra  spectabilis  Phlox  subulata 

Bleeding  Heart  Moss  Pink 

Geranium  sanguineum  Primula  japonica 

Crane's  Bill  Japanese  Primrose 

Saponaria  ocymoides 

Rock  Soapwort 

d.  Perennials  for  spring — yellow  to  orange  flowers: 

Adonis  vernalis  Doronicum  excelsum 

Pheasant's  Eye  Leopard's  Bane 

Alyssum  saxatile  Geum  heldreichi 

Golden  Tuft  Orange  Avenas 

Aquilegia  chrysantha  Helianthemum  croceum 

Gold-spurred  Columbine  Rock  Rose 

Baptisia  tinctoria  Iris  germanica  fiavescens 

Yellow  False  Indigo  German  Iris 


224  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Iris  pseudacorus  Primula  veris 

Yellow  Water  Flag  English  Cowslip 

Iris  pumila  hybrida  Trollius  europaeus 

European  Dwarf  Iris  Globe-flower 

Viola  cornuta  lutea 

Yellow  Horned  Violet 

e.     Perennials  for  summer  —  -pur-pie,  lavender,  or  blue  flowers: 

Baptisia  australis  Iris  kaempferi 

Blue  Indigo  Japanese  Iris 

Campanula  carpatica  Iris  pattida  dalmatica 

Carpathian  Harebell  Dalmatian  Iris 

Campanula  medium  Iris  sibirica 

Canterbury  Bells  Siberian  Iris 

Campanula  persicifolia  Lobelia  syphilitica 

Peach-leaved  Harebell  Blue  Cardinal  Flower 

Campanula  pyramidalis  Lupinus  polyphyllus 

Chimney  Bell-flower  Perennial  Lupin 

Centaurea  montana  Phlox  paniculata 

Mountain  Bluet  variety  Crepuscule 

Clematis  davidiana  variety  Esperance 

David's  Clematis  variety  Blue  Hill  (royal  purple) 

Delphinium  (in  variety)  var!ety  \e  ^ahdi 

Larkspur  °ne  Mercie 


Echinops  ritro  ,.„ 

Globe  Thistle  Platycodon  grandiflorum 

Balloon  r  lower 

Erynsium  amethystinum  s  ^      caucasica 

Amethyst  Sea  Holly  Mourning  Bride 

caerulea 


Blue  Plantain  Lily  Broad-leaved  Sea  Lavender 

Funkia  fortunei  Stokesia  cyanea 

Fortune  s  Plantain  Lily  Stokes'  Aster 

Funkia  lancifolia  Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis 

Spear-leaved  Plantain  Lily  Japanese  Speedwell 

Funkia  sieboldiana  Veronica  spicata 

Siebold's  Plantain  Lily  Spike-flowered  Speedwell 

/.     Perennials  for  summer  —  white  flowers: 

Achillea  boule  de  neige  Bocconia  cordata 

Ball  of  Snow  Plume  Poppy 

Althaea  rosea  alba  Campanula  carpatica  alba 

Hollyhock  Carpathian  Harebell 

Artemisia  lactiflora  Campanula  medium  calycanthema  alba 

Southernwood  Canterbury  Bell 

Aruncus  Sylvester  Campanula  persicifolia  alba 

Goat's  Beard  Peach-leaved  Harebell 

Astilbe  japonica  Campanula  pyramidalis  alba 

Japanese  Astilbe  N  Chimney  Bell-flower 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES 


225 


Chrysanthemum  shasta  daisy 

Shasta  Daisy 
Clematis  recta 

Herbaceous  Clematis 
Delphinium  grandifiorum  album 

Chinese  Larkspur 
Dianthus  barbatus — white 

Sweet  William 
Dictamnus  fraxinella  alba 

Gas  Plant 
Filipendula  hexapetala  flore  pleno 

Dropwort 
Funkia  subcordata  grandiflora 

Large-flowered  Plantain  Lily 
Gypsophila  paniculata 

Baby's  Breath 


Iris  kaempferi — white 

Japanese  Iris 
Iris^  sibirica  Snow  Queen 

Siberian  Iris 
Paeonia  albifiora  sinensis  (in  variety) 

Chinese  Peony 
Papaver  orientate — white 

Oriental  Poppy 
Phlox  paniculata  (in  variety) 

Garden  Phlox 

Phlox  suffruticosa  Miss  Lingard 

Early-flowering  Phlox 
Sidalcea  Candida 

Sidalcea 
Yucca  filamentosa 

Adam's  Needle 


g.     Perennials  for  summer — pink  to  crimson  flowers: 


Althaea  rosea 

Hollyhock 
Astilbe  davidi 

David's  Spirea 
Campanula  medium — pink 

Canterbury  Bells 
Dianthus  barbatus 

Sweet  William 
Dicentra  eximia 

Wild  Bleeding  Heart 
Dictamnus  fraxinella 

Gas  Plant 
Digitalis  purpurea  rosea 

Pink  Foxglove 
Lobelia  cardinalis 

Cardinal  Flower 
Lychnis  chalcedonica 

Maltese  Cross 


Lychnis  coronaria 

Mullein  Pink 
Lychnis  viscaria  splendens 

Ragged  Robin 
Lythrum  salicaria  roseum  superbum 

Pink  Loose-strife 
Monarda  didyma 

Bergamot 
Paeonia  albiflora  sinensis 

Chinese  Peony 
Papaver  orientale  (in  variety) 

Oriental  Poppy 
Pentstemon  barbatus 

Bearded  Pentstemon 
Phlox  paniculata  (in  variety) 

Garden  Phlox 
Physostegia  virginiana 

False  Dragon  Head 

Pyrethrum  roseum 
Painted  Daisy 


h.     Perennials  for  summer — yellow  to  orange  flowers: 


Achillea  tomentosa 

Yellow  Milfoil 
Althaea  rosea — yellow 

Hollyhock 
Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi 

Hardy  Marguerite 
Centaurea  macrocephala 

Knapweed 


Cephalaria  tatarica 

Giant  Scabiosa 
Coreopsis  grandiflora 

Tickseed 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 

Lance-leaved  Tickseed 
Digitalis  grandiflora 

Yellow  Foxglove 


226  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Gaillardia  aristata  Hypericum  moserianum 

Blanket  Flower  Gold-flower 

Helianthus  (in  variety)  Oenothera  misspuriensis 

Hardy  Sun-flower  Missouri  Primrose 

Heliopsis  (in  variety)  Rudbeckia  (in  variety) 

Ox-eye  Daisy  Cone-flower 

Hemerocallis  (in  variety)  Thalictrum  adiantifolium 

Day  Lily  Maidenhair  Thalictrum 
Thermopsis  caroliniana 
False  Lupine 

i.     Perennials  for  autumn — purple,  lavender,  or  blue  flowers: 

Aconitum  (in  variety)  Caryopteris  incana  (treat  as  a  perennial) 

Monkshood  Blue  Spirea 

Aster — Hardy  varieties  Ctratostigma  plumb  aginoides 

Climax— Blue  Leadwort 

Edward  VII — Blue  Eupatorium  coelestinum 

Ed  Beckett— Blue  Mist  Flower 

Feltham's  Blue  Salvia  azurea  grandiflora 

novae-angliae — Violet  Blue  Salvia 

tartaricus — Violet  (Last  to  bloom)  Statice  latifolia 

Broad-leaved  Sea  Lavender 

j.     Perennials  for  autumn — white  flowers: 

Anemone  japonica  Caryopteris  incana  Candida  (treat 

Japanese  Windflower  as  a  perennial) 

A-*      •  '    i    *-a  Blue  Spirea 

Artemisia  lactiflora 

Southernwood  Chrysanthemum  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

Ast*r  §°  variety)  Eupatorium  ageratoides 

Hardy  Aster  White  Snakeroot 

Boltonia  asteroides  _  Hibiscus  moscheutos 

Aster-like  Boltonia  Swamp  Mallow 

Sedum  (in  variety) 
Stonecrop 

k.     Perennials  for  autumn — pink  to  crimson  flowers: 

Anemone  japonica — pink  Chrysanthemum  (in  variety) 
Japanese  Windflower  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

Aster  (in  variety)  Hibiscus  moscheutos 
Perry  s  Favorite  Swamp  Mallow 

St'  Egwm  v   VL  / 

novae-angliae  rubra  Kmphofla  uvana 

Perry's  Pink  Red-hot  Poker  Plant 

Boltonia  latisquama  Sedum  (in  variety) 

Broad-scaled  Boltonia  Stonecrop 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES 

/.     Perennials  for  autumn — yellow  to  orange  flowers: 


227 


Chrysanthemum  (in  variety) 
Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

Helenium  autumnale 
Yellow  Sneezeweed 


Helenium  Riverton  Beauty 
Yellow  Sneezeweed 

Kniphofia  pfitzeri 
Red-hot  Poker  Plant 


Solidago  (in  variety) 
Goldenrod 


C.  PERENNIALS  FOR  NATURALIZING  IN  WILD  GARDEN  AREAS.  This 
group  contains  two  sub-groups  showing  types  of  perennials  which  are 
valuable  for  naturalizing  in  wild  garden  areas.  Most  of  these  plants 
will  thrive  in  the  open  sun,  as  contrasted  with  the  preceding  list  of 
plants  under  Chapter  XXVIII. 


a.     Tall  types: 

Actaea  alba 

White  Baneberry 
Anemone  pennsylvanica 

Canadian  Windflower 
Aquilegia  canadensis 

American  Columbine 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 

European  Columbine 
Aruncus  Sylvester 

Goat's  Beard 
Asclepias  tuberosa 

Butterfly  Weed 
Aster  cordifolius 

Starwort  Aster 
Aster  corymbosus 

Wild  Aster 
Aster  ericoides 

White  Heath  Aster 
Cimicifuga  racemosa 

Snake  root 
Digitalis  purpurea 


Echinaceapurpurea 

Purple  Cone-flower 
Eupatorium  purpureum 

Joe-pye  Weed 
Fern  (in  variety) 

Fern 
FiUpendula  hexapetala 

Herbaceous  Meadow-sweet 


Filipendula  rubra 

Japanese  Meadow-sweet 
Helianthus  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Sun-flower 
Hemerocallis  (in  variety) 

Day  Lily 
Hesperis  matronalis 

Sweet  Rocket 
Iris  pseudacorus 

Yellow  Water  Flag 
Iris  sibirica 

Siberian  Iris 
Iris  versicolor 

Dwarf  Blue  Flag 
Liatris  pycnostachya 

Blazing  Star 
Lobelia  cardinalis 

Cardinal  Flower 
Lychnis  (in  variety) 

Catchfly 
Lysimachia  clethroides 

Japanese  Loose-strife 
Monarda  fistulosa 

Wild  Bergamot 
Phlox  divaricata 

Wild  Sweet  William 
Polemonium  caeruleum 

American  Jacob's  Ladder 
Senecio  clivorum 

Groundsel 


228  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Sidalcea  Candida  Solidago  canadensis 

Sidalcea  Goldenrod 

Smilacina  racemosa  Thalictrum  aquilegifolium 

False  Spikenard  Meadow-rue 

Tradescantia  (in  variety) 
Spiderwort 

b.     Low  types: 

Aspidium  marginale  Phlox  ovata 

Margined  Fern  Mountain  Phlox 

Asperula  kexaphylla  Phlox  stolonifera 

Woodruff  Creeping  Phlox 

Claytonia  virginica  Phlox  subulata 

Spring  Beauty  Moss  Pink 

Convallaria  majalis  Polemonium  reptans 

Lily-of-the-valley  Greek  Valerian 

Hfpatica  triloba  Polygonatum  multiflorum 

Hepatica  Solomon's  Seal 

Heuchera  sanguined  Primula  (in  variety) 

Coral-bell  Primrose 

Iris  cristata  Sanguinaria  canadensis 

Crested  Iris  Blood  root 

Lamium  maculatum  Saponaria  ocymsides 

Dead  Nettle  Rock  Soapwort 

Mitchella  repens  Trillium  grandiflorum 

Partridge  Berry  Large-flowered  Wake  Robin 

Myosotis  palustris  Tunica  saxifraga 

Forget-me-not  Saxifrage-like  Tunica 

Oenothera  biennis  Viola  canadensis 

Evening  Primrose  Canadian  Violet 

Phlox  divaricata  Viola  canina 

Wild  Sweet  William  Dog-tooth  Violet 

D.  PERENNIALS  FOR  LONG  FLOWERING  PERIOD.  Not  only  are  peren- 
nials selected  because  of  the  colours  of  the  flowers  and  other  character- 
istics such  as  good  blooming  combinations,  perpetual  bloom,  and  good 
flowers,  as  shown  in  the  following  groups,  but  many  times  certain 
types  are  selected  because  of  their  long  blooming  period.  Such  plants 
as  the  yellow  marguerite,  the  Shasta  daisy,  the  blanket  flower,  and 
certain  hardy  phloxes,  are  very  valuable  in  the  garden  because  they 
produce  flowers  over  a  long  blooming  period,  extending  in  instances  for 
three  or  four  weeks.  Some  of  these  plants  require  cutting  back,  like 
the  larkspurs  and  nettle-leaved  mulleins,  thus  causing  them  to  pro- 
duce a  second  crop  of  bloom.  They  are  all  useful  to  insure  a  bridging 
of  the  gaps  between  the  flowering  period  of  other  sorts  or  to  plant  in 
those  places  where  only  one,  or  at  most  a  few  sorts,  can  be  used.  The 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES 


229 


tickseed,  the  Shasta  daisy,  the  blanket  flower,  and  the  scabiosa  all  carry 
their  bloom  at  intervals  from  June  until  frost,  while  the  violet,  the  for- 
get-me-not, and  the  toad-flax  start  in  .May  and  last  until  well  into 
August. 


Achillea  ptarmica  flore  plena 

Double  Tansy 
Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi 

Hardy  Marguerite 
Campanula  carpatica 

Carpathian  Harebell 
Chrysanthemum  maximum  King 
Edward 

Large  Shasta  Daisy 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 

Tickseed 
Delphinium  (in  variety) 

Larkspur 
Dianthus  deltoides 

Maiden  Pink 
Gaillardia  aristata 

Blanket  Flower 
Geum  coccineum 

Avens 
Heuchera  brizoides 

Red  Coral-bells 
Knifophia  uvaria 

Red-hot  Poker  Plant 


Lathyrus  latifolius 
Hardy  Sweet  Pea 

Linaria  dalmatica 
Dalmatian  Toad-flax 

Lychnis  coronaria 
Mullein  Pink 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens 
Forget-me-not 

Oenothera  fruticosa  youngi 
Young's  Evening  Primrose 

Papaver  nudicaule 
Iceland  Poppy' 

Phlox  glabsrrima  suffruticosa 
Early  Garden  Phlox 

Scabiosa  graminifolia 
Grass-leaved  Scabiosa 

Scabiosa  syhatica 
Woodland  Scabiosa 

Tradescantia  virginica 

Common  Spiderwort 
Verbascum  (in  variety) 

Nettle-leaved  Mullein 


Viola  cornuta 
Tufted  Pansy 


E.  PERENNIALS  SELDOM  USED  IN  SMALL,  REFINED,  FORMAL 
GARDENS.  This  group  contains  a  few  types  which  should  be  con- 
sistently avoided  in  the  development  of  a  small,  formal  flower  garden, 
where  refinement  of  detail  is  the  main  requirement.  These  plants, 
when  not  given  careful  attention,  such  as  staking  and  constant  cutting 
back,  will  produce  a  loose,  ragged  effect  and  will  crowd  out  many  of 
the  small  types  of  perennials  which  are  admirably  adapted  for  use  in 
small  formal  flower  gardens. 


Achillea  ptarmica  flore  pleno 

Double  Tansy 
Aconitum  wilsoni 

Wilson's  Monkshood 
Althaea  rosea 

Hollyhock 
Arundo  donax 

Giant  Reed 


Aster  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Aster 
Astilbe  grandis 

Large-flowered  Astilbe 
Bocconia  cordata 

Plume  Poppy 
Boltonia  asteroides 

Aster-like  Boltonia 


230  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Eupatorium  (in  variety)  Miscanthus  (in  variety) 

White  Snakeroot  Plume  Grass 

Filipendula  camtschatica  Physostegia  virginiana 

Siberian  Goat's  Beard  False  Dragon  Head 

Hflenium  autumnale  superbum  Polygonum  sachalinense 

Tall  Sneezeweed  Knotweed 

Helianthus  (in  variety)  Rudbeckia  laciniata 

Hardy  Sun-flower  Golden  Glow 

Hibiscus  moscheutos  Rudbeckia  maxima 

Swamp  Mallow  Cone-flower 

Liatris  pycnostachya  Solidago  (in  variety) 

Blazing  Star  Goldenrod 

Lythrum  salicaria  roseum  Stenanthium  robustum 

Pink  Loose-strife  Mountain  Feather  Fleece 

F.  PERENNIALS  TO  SUPPLY  "PERPETUAL  BLOOM."    This  group  of 
perennials  will  prove  helpful  in  providing  continuous  bloom  through- 
out the  season.     Most  of  these  plants  are  the  well-known,  thoroughly 
tested  kinds  which  will  grow  in  any  average  garden  soil  and  will 
combine  well  in  their  colour  effects  and  habits  of  growth.     By  a  lover  of 
flowers,  who  has  acquired  expert  knowledge  of  flowers,  many  similar 
groupings  can  be  formed. 

Anemone  japonica  Gaillardia  aristata 

Japanese  Windflower  Blanket  Flower 

Aquilegia  hybrida  Helleborus  niger 

Columbine  Christmas  Rose 

Aster  (in  variety)  Hemerocallis  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Aster  Day  Lily 

Soltonia  asteroides  Iris  gtrmanica 

Aster-like  Boltonia  German  Iris 

Chrysanthemum  (in  variety)  Iris  kaempferi 

Hardy  Chrysanthemum  Japanese  Iris 

Chrysanthemum  shasta  daisy  .                    Paeonia  albiflora  sinensis 

Shasta  Daisy  Chinese  Peony 

Delphinium  belladonna  Phlox  paniculata 

Everblooming  Larkspur  Garden  Phlox 

Dicentra  spectabilis  Rudbeckia  maxima 

Bleeding  Heart  Cone-flower 

Viola  cornuta  hybrida 
Horned  Violet 

G.  PERENNIALS  FOR  USE  AMONG  PEONIES.    When  peonies  have 
completed  their  period  of  flowering  there  remains  during  the  balance 
of  the  season  a  mass  of  green  foliage  which  can  often  be  made  much 
more  interesting  by  the  addition  of  a  few  types  of  perennials  which 
do  not  require  any  considerable  space  for  their  development,  and  which 


PLATE  XXXIV.  It  is  a  source  of  much  satisfaction  to  the  plant  designer  to 
know  that  shrubs  which  are  carefully  selected  for  the  colbur  of  their  flowers 
may  produce  very  effective  colour  combinations.  This  plate  shows  the  St. 
John's  Wort  (A),  in  combination  with  the  sweet-scented  buddleia  (B). 


PLATE  XXXV.  The  average  person  who  has  not  become  interested  in  the 
colour  effects  produced  by  the  fruits  of  our  common  trees  and  shrubs  can  hardly 
appreciate  the  intense  colour  display  of  the  American  bittersweet  (A),  the 
Washington  thorn  (B)  and  the  white  fringe  (C).  For  flowers:  (D)  bittersweet, 
(E)  thorn  and  (F)  fringe.  (See  page  162,  group  XX-B) 


PLATE  XXXVI.  The  garden  designer  must  always  bear  in  mind  that  many 
of  our  shrubs  which  produce  very  uninteresting  flowers  are  the  ones  which  pro- 
duce our  most  attractive  fruiting  effects.  The  variation  in  colours  of  the  fruits 
ranges  from  the  pure  white  of  the  snowberry  (A),  through  the  purple  and 
porcelain  blue  of  the  beauty  fruit  (C),  to  the  vivid  reds  of  which  the  Japanese 
bush  cranberry  (B)  is  typical.  For  flowers:  (D)  beauty  fruit,  (E)  snowberry, 
(F)  Japanese  bush  cranberry.  (See  page  162,  group  XX-B) 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          231 

will  lend  touches  of  colour  to  this  mass  of  green  during  the  summer 
months. 

Aconitum  fischeri  Kniphofia  pfitzeri 

Monkshood  Red-hot  Poker  Plant 

Aconitum  napellus  Liatris  (in  variety) 

Monkshood  Blazing  Star 

Gladiolus  (in  variety)  Lilium  (See  List  No.  XXXIII-F) 

Sword  Flower  Lily 

Hyacinthus  candicans  Physostegia  virginiana 

Summer  Hyacinth  False  Dragon  Head 

H.  PERENNIALS  FOR  GOOD  BLOOMING  COMBINATIONS.  The  fol- 
lowing group  contains  interesting  combinations  of  perennials  which, 
if  planted  together,  will  produce  in  each  case  a  pleasing  colour  effect. 
The  perennial  garden  is  valuable  for  two  effects:  either  for  a  succession 
of  bloom,  or  for  interesting  colour  combinations  of  those  flowers 
which  bloom  at  the  same  time.  The  following  is  an  endeavour  to 
provide  such  combinations:* 

1.  Rosa  foe tida  harisoni  and  Aquilegia  caerulea,  blue. 

2.  Heuchera  sanguinea,  coral;  Aquilegia  caerulea,  blue;  Iris  germanica  Kharput,  purple. 

3.  Paeonia  festiva  maxima,  white;  Dianthus  latifolius  atrococcineus,  crimson;  Paeonia, 

pink  (in  variety);  Clematis  recta,  white  (as  background)  and  Dianthus  bar- 
batus,  variety  "Newport",  pink. 

4.  Iris  pallida  dalmatica,  lavender;  and  Thermopsis  caroliniana,  yellow. 

5.  Cerastium  tomentosum,  white;  Linum  perenne,  blue. 

6.  Phlox  Miss  Lingard,  white;  and  Campanula  persicifolia  caerulea,  blue. 

7.  Phlox  Miss  Lingard,  white;  Aquilegia  chrysantha,  yellow;  and  Heuchera  sanguinea, 

coral. 

8.  Hemerocallis  flava,  or  Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi,  yellow;  with  Delphinium  for- 

mosum  or  Baptisia  australis,  blue;  or  Iris  Celeste,  blue. 

9.  Hemerocallis  fulva,  orange  with  Clematis  recta,  white. 

10.  Coreopsis  lanceolata,  or  Thermopsis  caroliniana,  yellow;  with  Delphinium  in  deep 

blue  shades. 

11.  Chrysanthemum  shasta  daisy,  white;  Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi,  yellow;  and 

Delphinium  belladonna,  blue. 

12.  Delphinium  belladonna  or  hybrids,  blue;  and  Lilium  candidum,  white. 

13.  Anchusa  italica,  blue;  and  Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi,  yellow. 

14.  Chrysanthemum  shasta  daisy,  white;  and  Iris  kaempferi  in  purple  shades,  or 

Dianthus  Napoleon  III,  crimson. 

15.  Monarda  didyma  Cambridge,  scarlet;  and  Phlox  paniculata,  white. 

16.  Phlox  paniculata,  pink;  Lilium  speciosum,  white;  and  Veronica  longifolia  subsessi- 

lis,  violet. 

17.  Thalictrum  dipterocarpum,  blue;  Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis,  violet;  and  Ane- 

mone japonica,  white. 
*For  common  names  refer  to  index  and  page  references. 


232  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

18.  Veronica  spicata,  blue;  and  Oenothera  missouriensis,  yellow. 

19.  Eupatorium  ageratoides,  white;  and  Helenium  Riverton  Beauty,  yellow  and  black. 

20.  Eupatorium  ageratoides,  white;  and  Chrysanthemum,  Glory  of  Seven  Oaks,  yellow. 

21.  Buddleia  (in  variety),  lilac,  lavender,  violet,  purple;  and  Anemone  japonic  a,  white 

or  pink. 

22.  Anemone  japonica,  white  and  pink;  and  Aconitum  autumnale,  blue. 

23.  Aster  Climax,  blue;  and  Helenium  Riverton  Beauty,  yellow  and  black. 


I.  PERENNIALS  VALUABLE  FOR  CUT  FLOWERS.  The  perennial  cut- 
flower  garden  should  provide  an  abundance  of  cut  flowers.  Most  of  the 
perennials  in  this  group  will  provide  flowers  which  can  be  cut  for  house 

use  and  which  have  lasting  qualities.  There  are  many  perennials 

which  do  not  produce  masses  of  flowers  of  sufficient  substance  to  be 
effective  when  cut  for  house  use. 

Achillea  boule  de  neige  Gaillardia  aristata 

Ball  of  Snow  Blanket  Flower 

Anemone  japonica  Gypsophila  paniculata 

Japanese  Windflower  Baby's  Breath 

Aquilegia  (long-spurred  hybrids)  Helianthus  (in  variety) 

Columbine  Hardy  Sun-flower 

Aster  novae-angliae  Climax  Heuchera  sanguinea 

Blue  Hardy  Aster  Coral-bells 

Astilbe  japonica  Iris  germanica 

Japanese  Astilbe  German  Iris 

Boltonia  asteroides  Iris  kaempferi 

Aster-like  Boltonia  Japanese  Iris 

Centaurea  montana  Kniphofia  uvaria 

Mountain  Bluet  Red-hot  Poker  Plant 

Chrysanthemum  (in  variety)  Paeonia  (in  variety) 

Chrysanthemum  Peony 

Chrysanthemum  shasta  daisy  Physostegia  virginiana 

Shasta  Daisy  False  Dragonhead 

Convallaria  majalis  Phlox  paniculata 

Lily-of-the-valley  Garden  Phlox 

Coreopsis  lanceolata  Primula  (in  variety) 

Lance-leaved  Tickseed  Primrose 

Delphinium  (in  variety)  Pyrethrum  roseum 

Larkspur  Painted  Daisy 

Dianthus  barbatus  Rudbeckia  (in  variety) 

Sweet  William  Cone-flower 

Digitalis  (in  variety)  Scabiosa  caucasica 

Foxglove  Mourning  Bride 

Eupatorium  coelestinum  Stokesia  cyanea 

Mist  Flower  Stokes'  Aster 
Veronica  (in  variety) 
Speedwell 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          233 

J.  PERENNIALS  WHICH  SHOULD  BE  TREATED  AS  BIENNIALS.  There 
are  certain  plants  generally  known  as  perennials  which  will  "run  out" 
in  the  average  garden  after  a  period  of  two  to  three  years.  They 
may  still  continue  to  grow,  but  after  the  first  two  years  they  are 
much  less  vigorous.  The  plants  in  this  group  should  be  planted 
with  the  idea  that  at  the  end  of  two  years  the  old  plants  will  be  re- 
moved and  new  ones  put  into  their  places. 

Antirrhinum  majus  Hedysarum  coronarium 

Snapdragon  French  Honeysuckle 

Bellis  perennis  Lunaria  annua 

English  Daisy  Honesty 

Campanula  medium  Lychnis  alba 

Canterbury  Bells  White  Pink 

Campanula  pyramidalis  Lychnis  coronaria 

Chimney  Bell-flower  Mullein  Pink 

Dianthus  barbatus  Lychnis  dioica 

Sweet  William  Red  Campion 

Digitalis  purpurea  Viola  cornuta 

Foxglove  Tufted  Pansy 

Glaucium  luteum  Viola  tricolor 

Yellow  Horned  Poppy  Pansy 

K.  PERENNIALS  TO  BE  TRANSPLANTED  FREQUENTLY.  There  are 
certain  perennials  which  require  special  attention  for  their  best  devel- 
opment. The  perennials  in  this  group  should  be  taken  up,  divided, 
and  replanted  every  two  or  three  years,  as  they  grow  more  vigor- 
ously and  multiply  faster  than  the  other  groups  of  perennials. 

a.  To  be  divided  every  two  years: 

Anemone  japonica  Lychnis  coronaria 

Japanese  Windflower  Mullein  Pink 

Aquilegia  Monarda  didyma 

Columbine  Bergamot 

Chrysanthemum  (hardy,  large-  D         •    /•                 \ 

flowered  varieties)  P%oma  <!n  Y3"6^  .  .  .  , 

Hardy  Chrysanthemum  Peony  ^  to  multlP!y) 

Helianthemum  croceum  Phlox  pamculata 

Rock  Rose  Garden  Phlox 

Helianthus  Rudbeckia 

Hardy  Sun-flower  Cone-flower 

b.  To  be  divided  every  three  years: 

Armeria  (in  variety)  Phlox  paniculata 

Sea  Thrift  Garden  Phlox 

Iris  (all  varieties)  Thymus  serpyllum  lanuginosus 

Iris  Downy  Thyme 
Viola  (in  variety) 
Violet 


234  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

c.     To  be  divided  each  year: 

Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi  Bocconia  cordata 

Hardy  Marguerite  Plume  Poppy 

Aster  novae-angliae  (in  variety)  Chrysanthemum  indicum 

Hardy  Garden  Aster  Pompom  Chrysanthemum 

Aster  novi-belgi  (in  variety)  Chrysanthemum  maximum 

Hardy  Garden  Aster  Shasta  Daisy 

Bellis  perennis  Helenium  (in  variety) 

English  Daisy  Sneezeweed 

L.  PERENNIALS  FOR  WATER  PLANTING.  In  the  development  of 
informal  and  formal  pools  the  following  group  provides  a  ready 
reference  for  interesting  types  of  perennials  adapted  for  use  in  water 
gardens.  For  growing  in  wet  soil  along  stream  sides  the  closed  gentian 
is  one  of  the  best  plants.  The  cardinal  flower  naturally  grows  along 
stream  sides  or  edges  of  ponds  and  will  thrive,  if  in  a  damp  soil,  either 
in  open  sunlight  or  shade,  but  prefers  shade. 

a.  Deep  water: 

Nelumbo  (in  variety)  Nymphaea  marliacea 

Lotus  Hybrid  Water-lily 

Nymphaea  alba  Nymphaea  odorata 

White  Water-lily  Native  Pond-lily 

Nymphaea  odorata  sulphurea 
Yellow  Water-lily 

b.  Shallow  water: 

Acorus  japonicus  variegatus  Cyperus  strigosus 

Variegated  Sweet  Sedge  Cyperus 

Alisma  plantago  Iris  pseudacorus 

Great  Water-plantain  Yellow  Water  Flag 

Butomus  umbellatus  Phragmites  communis 

Flowering  Rush  Common  Reed 

Calla  palustris  Sagittaria  montevidensis 

Water  Arum  Giant  Arrowhead 

Caltha  palustris  Scirpus  lacustris 

Marsh  Marigold  Bulrush 

Carex  Scirpus  tabernaemontanus  zebrinus 

Sedge  Great  Bulrush 

Thalia  dealbata 
Thalia 

c.  Land  at  water-side: 

Aruncus  sylvester  Aster  (in  variety) 
Goat's  Beard  Hardy  Aster 

Asclepias  incarnata  Astilbe  davidi 
Swamp  Milkweed  David's  Spirea 


PERENNIALS  FOR  DIFFERENT  PURPOSES          235 

Caltha  palustris  flore  pleno  Leucanthemum  lacustre 

Marsh  Marigold  Leucanthemum 

Eupatorium  ageratoides  Leucojum  aestivum 

White  Snakeroot  Summer  Snowflake 

Eupatorium  coelestinum  Lobelia  cardinalis 

Mist  Flower  Cardinal  Flower 

Filipendula  purpurea  Lysimachia  vulgaris 

Steeple  Bush  Common  Yellow  Loose-strife 

Gentiana  andrewsi  Lythrum  salicaria  roseum 

Closed  Gentian  Pink  Loose-strife 

Helenium  autumnale  superbum  Miscanthus  (in  variety) 

Tall  Sneezeweed  Plume  Grass 

Helonias  bullata  Myosotis  palustris 

Swamp-pink  Forget-me-not 

Hemerocallis  flava  Phalaris  arundinacea 

Lemon  Lily  Ribbon-grass 

Heracleum  mantegazzianum  Primula  japonica  (in  variety) 

Giant  Cow-parsnip  Japanese  Primrose 

Hibiscus  moscheutos  Rheum  officinale 

Swamp  Mallow  Medicinal  Rhubarb 

Iris  kaempferi  Sarracenia  drummondi 

Japanese  Iris  Pitcher  Plant 

Iris  orientalis  Senecio  clivorum 

Oriental  Iris  Groundsel 
Thalictrum  dipterocarpum 
Meadow-rue 

M.  PERENNIALS  FOR  PLANTING  ON  EDGE  OF  AND  IN  FRONT  OF 
SHRUB  BORDERS. 

a.  Low  Growing: 

Cerastium  tomentosum  Iberis  sempervirens 

Snow-in-summer  Evergreen  Candytuft 

Ceratostigma  plumb aginoides  Saxifraga  (in  variety) 

Leadwort  Saxifrage 

Funkia  (in  variety)  Sedum  (in  variety) 

Plantain  Lily  Stonecrop 

b.  Tall  Growing: 

Acanthus  Doronicum 

Bear's  Breech  Leopard's  Bane 

Aster  Ferns 

Starwort  Native  Ferns 

Baptisia  Helianthus 

False  Indigo  Hardy  Sun-flower 

Bocconia  Hemerocallis 

Plume  Poppy  Day  Lily 
Hibiscus  moscheutos  hybrida 
Mallow  Marvels 


236 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


N.  PERENNIALS  FOR  ATTRACTING  HUMMING  BIRDS.  Humming 
birds  have  long  bills  and  hollow  tongues  which  permit  them  to  search 
for  insects  and  honey  in  their  favourite  flowers.  By  planting  some  of  the 
following  sorts  of  perennials,  as  well  as  the  trumpet  vine,  these  beautiful 
birds  will  be  encouraged  to  visit  the  garden. 


Aconitum  (in  variety) 

Monkshood 
Althaea  rosta 

Hollyhock 
Aquilegia  (in  variety) 

Columbine 
Delphinium  (in  variety) 

Larkspur 


Melissa  officinalis 
Lemon  Balm 


Dianthus  barbatus 

Sweet  William 
Digitalis  gloxinaeflora 

Foxglove 
Impatiens  biflora 

Jewel-weed 
Lychnis  (in  variety) 

Mullein  Pink 


CHAPTER  XXXII 

ANNUALS 

No  GARDEN  is  complete  without  its  quota  of  annuals.  The  so- 
called  perennial  garden,  to  be  really  successful,  must  be  supplemented 
each  year  with  a  quantity  of  annuals,  especially  if  the  garden  is  to  be 
studied  in  close  detail.  If  only  the  larger  mass  effects  of  flowers  and 
foliage  are  required,  a  perennial  planting  properly  selected  is  sufficient 
in  itself. 

The  opinion  prevails  among  those  who  have  devoted  but  little  study 
to  this  subject  that  a  complete  flower  garden  can  be  developed  during 
the  first  one  or  two  years  after  planting  through  the  use  of  properly 
selected  types  of  perennials  only.  Such  a  garden  may  be  developed 
after  the  first  one  or  two  years,  under  the  care  of  an  expert  gardener. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  develop  such  a  garden  in  the  early  stages, 
because  perennials,  on  account  of  the  nature  of  the  plants,  continue 
each  year  to  increase  their  mass  and  so  require  more  space  for  their 
normal  development.  Therefore,  when  perennials  are  first  planted, 
sufficient  space  should  be  allowed  between  plants  to  permit  of  a  normal 
development  for  at  least  three  or  four  years,  at  the  end  of  which  period 
the  clumps  of  plants,  except  the  peony,  should  be  "divided."  (See 
"Maintenance  of  Perennials.")  If  the  first  planting  is  not  over- 
crowded there  will  be  during  the  first  year,  and  often  during  the  second 
year,  bare  spots  in  the  garden  which  should  be  filled  with  annuals. 
Perennials  during  the  first  year  after  transplanting  rarely  become  es- 
tablished sufficiently  to  produce  normal  flower  effects,  and  this  is  one 
reason  for  the  use  of  annuals  to  develop  a  successful  garden. 

Annuals  are  plants  which  are  grown  from  seed  each  year  and  whose 
roots  die  each  winter.  The  roots  of  perennials  continue  to  live  in  a 
dormant  condition  and  develop  new  growth  again  at  the  top  with  the 
coming  of  the  next  spring. 

The  first  principle  in  the  successful  development  of  any  flower  gar- 
den is  to  determine  the  use  for  which  the  flower  garden  is  developed.  A 
garden  designed,  either  of  annuals  or  of  perennials,  to  show  a  succession 

237 


238  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

of  interesting  bloom  and  to  make  an  interesting  garden  picture,  either 
as  masses  of  colour  or  spots  of  colour,  is  a  different  garden  from  the 
so-called  cut-flower  garden,  from  which  the  flowers,  as  soon  as  they 
mature,  are  apt  to  be  cut  and  used  for  table  decoration.  The  best 
success  in  garden  development  is  obtained  when  a  clear-cut  line  is 
drawn  between  the  so-called  cut-flower  garden  and  the  flower  garden 
as  a  piece  of  landscape  design.  There  is  nothing  more  discouraging 
to  the  expert  designer  than  to  see  masses  of  flowers  at  the  height  of  their 
bloom,  and  at  a  time  when  they  should  be  most  effective  in  the  garden 
design,  deliberately  cut  for  table  use  and  a  resulting  criticism  ex- 
tended that  the  garden  is  not  a  success  because  it  has  no  flowers. 
This  discussion  applies  equally  well  to  a  garden  filled  with  perennials 
and  to  a  garden  filled  with  annuals.  A  garden  should  be,  if  space 
permits,  either  for  one  purpose  or  for  the  other,  and  if  a  space  is  desired 
where  cut  flowers  may  be  obtained,  then  a  separate  garden  should  be 
provided  from  which  flowers  may  be  cut  as  soon  as  they  have  matured. 

There  are  many  interesting  questions  concerning  the  use  of  annuals. 
Perhaps  the  most  interesting  group  of  annuals  is  that  containing  the 
plants  which  are  valuable  for  cut  flowers,  such  as  the  larkspur,  mari- 
gold, snapdragon,  Mexican  poppy,  and  nasturtium.  These  plants 
to  be  most  successful  for  cut  flowers  should  be  in  rows  for  purposes  of 
cultivation,  and  given  ample  space  to  develop  fully.  Most  of  them, 
as  with  the  other  annuals  which  have  early  flowers,  are  sown  in  the 
seed  beds  in  mid-February  and  early  March  or  in  the  hot  frames  during 
the  last  of  March  and  early  April  and  later  transplanted.  Most  of  the 
annuals  can  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  during  the  last  of  April  and 
early  May,  but  the  flowering  season  is  apt  to  be  much  shorter  because 
the  flowers  mature  at  a  later  date. 

There  is  a  group  of  annuals  which  are  extremely  desirable  as  ground 
cover  and  edgings.  They  are  plants  which,  when  sown  thin  in  the 
open  ground,  need  not  necessarily  be  thinned  out  although  an  in- 
telligent thinning  is  better.  These  annuals  form  beautiful  edgings 
to  the  flower  borders  and  fill  many  otherwise  bare  spaces  in  the  front 
of  the  lower  annual  plantings. 

There  is  a  group  of  annuals  which  should  preferably  be  sown  in  the 
open  ground  where  they  are  to  bloom,  and  which  should  be  thinned 
out  to  the  proper  spacing  between  plants  as  the  small  plants  develop. 
These  annuals  are  difficult  to  transplant  successfully,  and  include  such 
types  as  baby's  breath,  lupine,  nasturtium,  cornflower,  and  poppy, 


PLATE  XXXVII.  Not  only  because  of  the  interesting  colour  of  its  fruit 
in  combination  with  the  fruit  of  other  shrubs,  but  because  of  the  size  and 
abundance  of  its  fruit,  the  snowberry  is  one  of  our  conspicuous  and  valuable 
shrubs.  (See  page  162,  group  XX-B) 


ANNUALS  239 

Annuals,  unlike  perennials,  can  be  started  in  many  instances  at 
different  periods  during  the  season,  in  order  to  insure  a  succession  of 
bloom.  There  is  a  normal  period  required  between  the  time  of  seed- 
ing and  the  time  of  blooming,  and  if  this  period  is  definitely  known, 
then  at  intervals  of  not  less  than  ten  days  or  two  weeks  three  or  four 
successive  sowings  may  be  made  in  the  early  and  late  spring  so  that  a 
continuous  succession  of  bloom  from  these  plants  may  be  obtained 
during  the  summer  months.  Typical  of  these  plants  are  the  phlox, 
forget-me-not,  and  baby's  breath. 

Most  of  our  annuals  can  be  sown,  if  necessary,  in  the  open  ground. 
There  are  a  few  types,  however,  which  must  be  started  in  seed  beds, 
either  in  a  greenhouse  or  in  hot  frames,  in  order  to  produce  good  bloom 
before  the  frost  injures  the  tops.  These  types  include  the  China  asters, 
cosmos,  ten-weeks'  stock,  petunia,  and  butterfly  flower,  all  of  which  re- 
quire a  longer  season  for  the  period  of  maturing  after  seeding.  Many 
times  when  the  seeds  of  these  plants  are  sown  late,  the  plants  reach 
their  mature  development  and  are  on  the  point  of  producing  flowers 
when  they  are  suddenly  injured  by  an  early  frost. 

It  often  becomes  necessary  or  desirable  to  supplement  plantings  of 
perennial  or  woody  vines,  which  are  naturally  slow  growing,  with 
annual  quick-growing  vines  to  cover  fences  and  lattice  work.  It  is 
seldom  that  perennial  vines  can  be  planted  and  produce  an  adequate 
covering  for  a  lattice  work  or  fence  during  the  first  year.  The  time 
required  for  the  full  development  of  such  woody  vines  as  the  clematis, 
bitter-sweet,  and  rose  is  from  two  to  three  years.  In  such  instances  the 
cup  and  saucer  vine,  hop  vine,  cardinal  vine,  and  the  morning  glory 
can  be  planted  to  fill  the  bare  areas  during  the  first  year  or  two.  Many 
of  these  annual  vines  have  a  heavy  foliage,  valuable  for  screen  effects, 
and  the  writer  has  therefore  divided  this  group  into  two  sub-groups,  in- 
dicating those  with  delicate  foliage  and  those  with  heavy  foliage. 

LIST  OF  ANNUALS 

A.  ANNUALS  ESPECIALLY  VALUABLE  FOR  CUT  FLOWERS.  The 
group  of  annuals  which  are  valuable  for  cut  flowers  is  much  greater  than 
might  be  anticipated.  This  group  is  comprehensive  and  those  plants 
which  are  marked  with  a  star  (*)  are  the  most  interesting  types,  and  pro- 
vide the  greatest  abundance  of  cut  flowers.  The  other  annuals  in  the 
group  are  valuable  for  cut  flowers,  but  should  not  be  selected  unless 
ample  space  exists  so  that  the  more  important  types  also  can  be  grown. 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Ageraium  houstonianum 

Floss  Flower 
Alyssum  maritimum 

Sweet  Alyssum 

*  Antirrhinum  majus 

Snapdragon  (treated  as  an  annual) 
Arctotis  grandis 

African  Daisy 
Brachycome  iberidifolia 

Swan  River  Daisy 

*  Calendula  officinalis 

Pot  Marigold 
Callistephus  hortensis 

China  Aster 
*Centaurea  americana 

American  Cornflower 

Centaurea  cyanus 

Old-fashioned  Cornflower 
Centaurea  imperialis 

Sweet  Sultan 

*  Chrysanthemum  coronarium 

Summer  Chrysanthemum 
*Coreopsis  tinctoria 

Tickseed 
*Cosmos  bipinnatus 

Cosmos 
*Delphinium  ajacis 

Annual  Larkspur 
Dianthus  chinensis 

Chinese  Pink 
Dianthus  heddewigi 

Japanese  Pink 
Emilia  flammea 

Flora's  Paint-brush 
Eschscholtzia  calif ornica 

California  Poppy 
Eucharidium  grandiflorum 

Large-flowered  Eucharidium 
*Gaillardia  pulchella  picta 

Blanket  Flower 
Gomphrena  globosa 

Globe  Amaranth 

fThe  variety  Shirley  is  particularly  to  be  commended. 


Grasses  in  variety 
Grass 

*Gypsophila  elegans 

Baby's  Breath 
*Helianthus  annuus 

Single  Annual  Sunflower 
Helichrysum  bracteatum 

Straw  Flower 
Heliotropium  peruvianum 

Heliotrope 
Hunnemannia  fumariaefolia 

Mexican  Poppy 
Iberis  umbellata 

Candytuft 
Impatiens  balsamina 

Garden  Balsam 
*Lathyrus  odoratus 

Sweet  Pea 
Matthiola  incana 

Common  Stock 
Nigella  damascena 

Love-in-a-mist 
\Papaver  (in  variety) 

Annual  Poppy 
Reseda  odorata 

Mignonette 
*Salpiglossis  sinuata 

Painted  Tongue 
*Scabiosa  atropurpure* 

Mourning  Bride 
Schizanthus  pinnatus 

Butterfly  Flower 
Tagetes  erecta 

Marigold,  African  varieties 
*Tropaeolum  majus 

Nasturtium 
Verbena  hybrida 

Verbena 
Viola  tricolor 

Pansy ' 
*Zinnia  elegans 

Zinnia 


B.  ANNUALS  TO  BE  SOWN  FOR  GROUND  COVER.  Often  along  the 
edges  of  borders  in  the  garden,  or  in  otherwise  bare  spots,  a  small 
ground  cover  of  annuals  to  produce  a  carpet  of  flowers  may  be  de- 
sired. This  often  happens  at  the  edge  of  shrubbery  which  grows 


ANNUALS  241 

on  a  bank  where  it  is  difficult  to  train  the  branches  so  that  they  will 
come  to  the  edge  of  the  sod,  thus  covering  the  bare  soil. 

Ageratum  houstonianum  (dwarf  varieties)      Iberis  umbellata  (dwarf  hybrids) 

Floss  Flower  Candytuft 

Alyssum  maritimum  Little  Gem  Myosotis  alpestris 

Sweet  Alyssum  Forget-me-not 

Anagallis  (in  variety,)  Portulaca  grandiflora 

Pimpernel  Rose  Moss 

Reseda  odorala,  dwarf 
Mignonette 

C.  ANNUALS  WHICH  ARE  DIFFICULT  TO  TRANSPLANT  SUCCESSFULLY. 
This  group  contains  annuals  which  should  be  sown  in  the  place  where 
they  are  expected  to  remain.     The  only  work  which  should  be  done  to 
them  after  sowing  is  to  thin  them  out  in  order  to  give  the  individual 
plants  more  space  to  develop. 

Centaurea  cyanus  Lathyrus  odoratus 

Old-fashioned  Cornflower  Sweet  Pea 

Delphinium  ajacis  Lavatera  trimestris  splendent 

Annual  Larkspur  Mallow 

Emilia  flammea  Lupinus  hirsutus 

Flora's  Paint-brush  Lupin 

Eschscholtzia  californica  Nigella  damascene, 

California  Poppy  Love-in-a-mist 

Gypsophila  elegans  Pataver  (in  variety) 

Baby's  Breath  Poppy 

Gypsophila  muralis  Tropaeolum  majus 

Pink  Baby's  Breath  Nasturtium 

D.  ANNUALS  WHICH  SHOULD  BE  PLANTED  IN  SEVERAL  SOWINGS  TO 
INSURE  A  SUCCESSION  OF  BLOOM.    To  provide  a  succession  of  bloom 
with  annuals  those  included  in  the  following  group  should  be  sown  in 
two  or  three  successive  plantings.     Very  few  annual  seeds  should  be 
sown  after  the  hot  summer  weather  begins,  unless  great  care  is  given 
to  the  watering. 

Centaurea  Cyanus  Myosotis  palustris 

Old-fashioned  Cornflower  Forget-me-not 

Coreopsis  tinctoria  Nigella  damascena 

Tickseed  Love-in-a-mist  (sow  every  six  weeks) 

Gypsophila  elegans  Papaver  (in  variety) 

Baby's  Breath  (sow  every  three  weeks)  Poppy  (sow  every  four  weeks) 

Iberis  umbellata  Phlox  drummondi 

Candytuft  (sow  every  three  weeks)  Drummond's  Phlox 
Reseda  odorata 
Mignonette  (sow  every  three  weeks) 


242 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


E.  ANNUALS  TO  BE  STARTED  INDOORS  IN  ORDER  TO  PRODUCE 
BLOOM  BEFORE  FROST.  For  the  best  results  and  for  early  summer 
flowers,  the  annuals  in  this  group  should  be  started  in  hot  frames  or 
greenhouses  and  transplanted  in  the  very  early  spring,  as  soon  as  the 
danger  of  frost  is  over,  into  their  permanent  garden  locations. 


Ageratum  houstonianum 

Floss  Flower 
Antirrhinum  majus 

Snapdragon 
Brachycome  iberidifolia 

Swan  River  Daisy 
Callistephus  hortensis 

China  Aster 
Cheiranthus  cheiri 

Wallflower 
Cosmos  bipinnatus 

Cosmos 
Heliotropium  peruvianum 

Heliotrope 
Lobelia  erinus  (in  variety) 

Lobelia 


Matthiola  incana 

Common  Stock 
Nicotiana  (in  variety) 

Tobacco  Plant 
Petunia  hybrida 

Petunia 
Salpiglossis  sinuata 

Painted  Tongue 
Salvia  splendens 

Scarlet  Sage 
Schizanthus  pinnatus 

Butterfly  Flower 
Verbena  hybrida 

Verbena 
Viola  tricolor 

Pansy 


F.  ANNUAL  VINES.  While  the  more  permanent  perennial  types  of 
woody  vines  are  developing  during  the  first  two  or  three  years  after 
transplanting  it  is  often  desirable  to  fill  the  bare  spaces  on  fences  and 
walls  with  the  annual  vines  that  will  produce  a  mass  foliage  effect. 
Any  of  the  vines  shown  in  this  group  are  valuable  for  that  purpose. 


a.     Delicate  foliage: 

Adlumia  cirrhosa  (biennial) 

Alleghany  Vine 
Cardiospermum  halicacabum 

Balloon  Vine 


Cobaea  scandens  (sow  indoors) 

Cup  and  Saucer  Vine 
Tropaeolum  canariense  (sow  indoors) 

Canary  Bird  Vine 


b.     Heavy  foliage: 

Calonyction  aculeatum 

Moon  Vine 
Dolichos  lablab 

Hyacinth  Bean 
Echinocystis  lobata 

Wild  Cucumber 
Humulus  lupulus 

Hop  Vine 
Humulus  lupulus  japonica 

Cut-leaved  Hop  Vine 


Ipomoea  hederacea  (Japanese  varieties) 

Japanese  Morning  Glory 
Ipomoea  purpurea 

Common  Morning  Glory 
Phaseolus  multiflorus 

Scarlet  Runner  Bean 
Quamoclit  pinnata 

Cypress  Vine 
Quamoclit  coccinea  hederifolia 

Cardinal  Climber 


ANNUALS 


243 


G.  PLANTS  FOR  CARPET  BEDDING.  Carpet  bedding  as  a  part  of 
design  in  landscape  planting  has  a  specific  place  and  is  used  for  a  spe- 
cific purpose.  This  type  of  planting  lends  itself  to  extremely  formal 
areas  throughout  parks  and  around  architectural  treatments.  It  is 
not  adapted  in  any  way  for  use  in  connection  with  informal  types  of 
American  landscapes  either  in  park  developments  or  in  settings  of 
homes.  This  is  a  field  of  work  which  gives  the  gardener  an  excellent 
opportunity  to  show  his  skill  in  the  trimming  of  plants  and  the  ar- 
rangement of  plants  to  produce  interesting  pattern  effects.  There  is  no 
other  group  of  plants  from  which  specimens  can  be  selected  which  will 
perform  the  same  functions  in  the  landscape  picture  as  plants  selected 
from  this  group.  The  perennials  are  mostly  propagated  from  cuttings, 
and  the  annual  plants  are  grown  each  year  from  seeds.  They  are 
usually  planted  very  closely — from  three  to  six  inches  apart — so  as  to 
secure  an  even  colour  effect  and  a  complete  blanket  of  foliage  with  well- 
defined  lines  of  separation  between  the  varieties.  Few  of  these  plants 
are  sold  under  their  proper  scientific  names,  but  the  common  names 
here  given  will  identify  them. 

The  types  of  plants  adapted  for  this  purpose  are  usually  selected 
because  of  well-defined  characteristics  such  as: 

(a)  Long  flowering  period  and  abundance  of  bloom. 

(b)  Compact  habit  of  growth. 

(c)  Ability  to  thrive  under  crowded  conditions. 

(d)  Ability  to  respond  to  frequent  and  severe  cutting  back. 

(e)  Interesting  colour  and  texture  of  foliage. 

a.     Low-growing  plants  from  two  to  six  inches  tall: 


I.  Foliage  plants: 

Alyssum  maritimum  variegatum 

Variegated-leaved  Sweet  Alyssum 
Echfveria  atropurpurea 

Purple-leaved  Echeveria 
Echeveria  fulgens 

Smooth-stemmed  Echeveria 
Echeveria  glauca 

Glaucous  Echeveria 
Echeveria  secunda 

Red-margined  Echeveria 
Oxalis  corniculata     . 

Creeping  Oxalis 
Pelargonium  hortorum  Madame  Salleroi 

Mme.  Salleroi  Geranium 


Sempervivum  arachnoideum  (in  variety) 

Spiderweb  Houseleek 
Sempervivum  calcareum 

Alpine  Houseleek 
Sempervivum  tectorum  (in  variety) 

Houseleek 
Telanthera  amoena 

Alternanthera 
Telanthera  bettzickiana 

Narrow-leaved  Alternanthera 
Telanthera  versicolor 

Round-leaved  Alternanthera 
Thymus  serpyllum  (in  variety) 

Mother  of  Thyme 


244  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

2.  Flowering  plants: 

Ageratum  "Imperial  Dwarf  Blue"  Iberis  umbellata  (in  variety) 

Dwarf  Blue  Floss  Flower  Candytuft 

Ageratum  "Imperial  Dwarf  White"  Lobelia  erinus'^alba 

Dwarf  White  Floss  Flower  White  Compact  Lobelia 

Alyssum  maritimum  Lilac  Queen  Lobelia  erinus  compacta  Crystal  Palace 

Lilac  Sweet  Alyssum  Blue  Compact  Lobelia 

Alyssum  maritimum  Little  Gem  Lobelia  erinus  flore  plena 

White  Sweet  Alyssum  Double  Lobelia 

Brachycome  iberidifolia  Lobelia  erinus  tricolor 

Swan  River  Daisy  ,  Spotted  Lobelia 

Cuphea  ignea  Phlox  drummondi 

Cigar  Plant  Drummond's  Phlox 

Iberis  amara  coronaria  Portulaca  grandiflora  (in  variety) 

Rocket  Candytuft  Rose  Moss 

Torenia  flava 
Yellow  Torenia 

b.     Taller-growing  plants  from  twelve  to  twenty  inches  tall: 

1.  Foliage  plants: 

Acalypha  wilkesiana  (in  variety)  Iresine  herbsti 

Copper-leaf  Round-leaved  Achyranthes 

Centaurea  cineraria  Iresine  lindeni 

Dusty  Miller  Narrow-leaved  Achyranthes 

Centaurea  gymnocarpa  Pelargonium  hortorum  (in  variety) 

Plumose-leaved  Dusty  Miller  Bronze-leaved  Geranium 

Chrysanthemum  parthenium  aureum  Phalaris  arundinacea 

Golden  Feather  Ribbon  Grass 

Chrysanthemum  parthenium  glaucum  Piqueria  trinerva 

Dusty  Feverfew  Stevia 

Coleus  blumei  verschaffelti  Santolina  chamaecyparissus 

Branched  Coleus  Lavender  Cotton 

Senecio  cineraria 
Dusty  Miller 

2.  Flowering  plants: 

Ageratum  houstonianum  Heliotropium  Queen  of  Violets 

Floss  Flower  Blue  Garden  Heliotrope 

Begonia  rex  (in  variety)  Lantana  camara  (in  variety) 

Rex  Begonia  Lantana 

Begonia  semperflorens  Triomphe  de  Pelargonium  (in  variety) 

L°rrame,  R   ...      R  Geranium 

Cherry  Red  Bedding  Begonia 

Begonia  semperflorens  Vernon  Petunia  hybrida 

Bedding  Begonia 
Chrysanthemum  coronarium  flore  pleno  Salvia  splendens  (in  variety) 

Double  Summer  Chrysanthemum  Scarlet  Sage 

Cuphea  llavea  Tropaeoleum  minus 

Cigar  Plant  Dwarf  Nasturtium 

Verbena  hybrida 
Garden  Verbena 


ANNUALS  245 

H.  ANNUALS  FOR  DESIGN  BEDDING.  Oftentimes  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  flower  garden  the  owner  wishes  for  a  massing  of  annual 
flowering  plants  to  produce  certain  definite  outlines.  The  amateur 
in  selecting  types  for  such  effects  will  not  be  successful  if  he  uses 
plants  with  habits  of  growth  not  adapted  to  the  refinement  of  detail 
in  the  design  being  produced.  Some  annuals,  like  the  dwarf  snap- 
dragon, French  marigold,  annual  phlox,  and  dwarf  zinnia,  will 
develop  within  small  spaces  to  produce  complicated  designs.  Others 
like  late  asters,  tall  snapdragons,  tall  zinnias,  and  African  marigolds 
lend  themselves  successfully  only  to  simple  bedding  effects  with  larger 
and  less  complicated  units. 

The  incorrect  selection  of  annuals  results  in  the  following  errors: 
(i)  Loss  of  all  trace  of  the  original  design  because  growth  of  plants 
used  is  out  of  scale  with  intent  of  the  design  (loose-growing,  tall 
plants  cannot  maintain  neat  lines  of  a  compact  design);  (2)  Irregular 
and  spotted  flowering  effect,  because  definite  masses  of  plants  do  not 
bloom  at  the  same  time  (e.  g.,  early-flowering  asters  and  late-flowering 
calendulas  do  not  bloom  at  the  same  time). 

The  best  rule  to  adopt  is  to  become  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
flowering  period  and  with  the  normal  height  to  which  the  different 
types  of  annuals  will  grow.  No  other  way  is  so  good  as  to  buy  packets 
of  seed  and  grow  some  of  the  different  sorts  for  a  season.  The  woody 
and  herbaceous  perennial  plants  are  as  a  rule  sold  as  named  varieties 
which  are  thoroughly  understood  the  world  over;  but  no  such  uni- 
formity exists  in  regard  to  the  seedsman's  names  for  annual  plants. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  seedsmen  to  sell  identical  seeds  under  different 
trade  names  or  to  give  the  same  name  to  entirely  different  strains  of 
seed.  Therefore  seeds  of  annuals  should  be  bought  of  a  reliable 
seedsman,  preferably  one  who  grows  the  seed,  and  one  should  not 
utilize  novelties  or  unknown  strains  of  seed  in  bedding  work.  By 
sticking  to  the  best  seedsmen  and  their  established  strains  of  seed 
excellent  results  will  follow. 

a.     Low-growing  sorts,  growing  twelve  to  twenty-four  inches: 

Antirrhinum  majus  nanum  (in  variety)  Callistephus  chinensis  Queen  of  the 

Half-dwarf  Snapdragon  Market 

Calendula  officinalis  (in  variety)  Early  Half-dwarf  China  Aster 

Pot  Marigold 

Callistephus  chinensis  King  type  Centaurea  cyanus 

Quilled  China  Aster  Old-fashioned  Cornflower 


246  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Clarkia  pulchella  Matthiola  incana  annua 

Clustered-flowered  Clarkia  Ten-week  Stock 

Dianthus  barbatus  Petunia  hybrida  (in  variety) 

Sweet  William  Petunia 

Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca  Phlox  drummondi  (in  variety) 

Orange  Daisy  Drummond's  Phlox 

Eschscholtzia  calif ornica  Salpiglossis  sinuata  (in  variety) 

California  Poppy  Painted  Tongue 

Gaillardia  pulchella  picta  Tagetes  erecta 

Blanket  Flower  African  Marigold 

Hunnemannia  fumariaefolia  Tagetes  patula 

Mexican  Poppy  French  Marigold 

Matthiola  incana  Verbena  hybrida 

Common  Stock  Verbena 

Zinnia  elegans 
Zinnia 

b.     Taller  sorts,  growing  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  inches: 

Antirrhinum  majus  (in  variety)  Delphinium  ajacis  Double  Stock-flowering 

Snapdragon  Annual  Larkspur 

Callistephus  chinensis  Cregos  Giant  Heliotropium  regale 

Chrysanthemum-flowered  China  Aster  Garden  Heliotrope 

Callistephus  chinensis  Late-branching  Matthiola  Mammoth  Beauty  of  Nice 

Late-flowering  China  Aster  Brompton  Stocks 

Celosia  argentea  Tagetes  erecta  Lemon  Queen 

Plumed  Celosia  Tall  Double  African  Marigold 

Clarkia  elegans  Tagetes  erecta  Orange  Prince 

Broad-leaved  Clarkia  Tall  Double  African  Marigold 

Zinnia  elegans  robusta 
Tall  Zinnia 


PLATE  XXXVIII.  During  the  winter  months  when  there  is  little  else  in 
the  shrub  border  to  attract  attention,  the  vivid  colours  of  the  twigs  of  many 
of  our  shrubs  present  interesting  spots  of  colour  against  the  background  of 
evergreens  or  snow.  (A)  red-twigged  dogwood;  (B)  green-stemmed  dogwood; 
(C)  red  birch;  (D)  golden-t\\igged  osier;  (E)  gray  dogwood;  (F)  striped  maple. 
(See  page  169,  group  XXI) 


PLATE  XXXIX.  What  is  more  beautiful  in  the  landscape  than  the  intensely 
brilliant  colours  of  the  autumn  foliage  of  many  of  our  trees  and  shrubs?  More 
plants  should  be  used  for  the  value  of  their  autumn  foliage  effect.  (A)  burning 
bush;  (B)  dark  green  golden  bell;  (C)  maple-leaved  viburnum;  (D)  sassafras; 
(E)  maidenhair  tree;  (F)  sourwood.  (See  page  173,  group  XXII) 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 
HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES 

THE  great  variations  among  plants  and  flowers  that  to  most  people 
seem  very  much  alike  should  become  better  known  both  for  the  enjoy- 
ment this  study  yields  and  for  its  educational  and  cultural  value.  The 
formation  of  a  fine  collection  of  one  or  two  genera  of  plants  like  the 
peony,  the  iris,  or  the  gladiolus,  may  become  a  hobby  that  will  give 
for  the  study  and  time  and  money  expended  upon  it  much  reward, 
additional  to  that  obtained  from  enjoying  the  blooms  of  one's  own 
choice  plants.  Not  only  are  ideals  of  excellence  improved  and  the 
aesthetic  sense  cultivated,  but  there  is  genuine  and  lasting  pleasure 
found  in  becoming  acquainted  with  congenial  persons  through  a  wide 
range  of  territory,  united  by  community  of  plant  interest  in  a  pursuit 
that  leads  to  refinement.  The  interchange  of  ideas  expressed  in  their 
publications  yields  a  satisfaction  greatly  enhanced  when  the  members 
of  the  society  interested  in  "promoting"  the  flower  meet  in  convention. 
It  all  becomes  fascinating  to  a  degree  unintelligible  to  a  person  who  has 
not  yet  given  himself  enthusiastically  to  specializing  in  a  flower. 
For  those  who  have  the  inclination  or  the  financial  means  that  justify 
them  in  seeking  the  satisfaction  that  comes  from  possessing  rare 
varieties  of  a  flower,  there  are  available  the  publications  of  the  societies 
such  as  have  been  named. 

Many  treasures  consisting  of  native  plants  still  generally  unknown, 
and  of  rare  horticultural  varieties,  have  long  been  denied  to  the 
purchasers  of  nursery  stock  in  this  country,  either  because  they  have 
not  been  properly  presented  to  the  public  by  the  nurserymen,  or  be- 
cause the  prospective  purchaser  has  been  too  timid  to  try  new  varieties 
of  old  plants.  Thus  much  of  our  American  ornamental  planting  has  a 
sameness  which  tends  to  discourage  people  who  have  wearied  of  seeing 
the  old  familiar  plants  but  would  respond  quickly  to  an  opportunity  to 
secure  and  use  new  and  better  varieties. 

Peonies,  lilacs,  and  irises  are  now  becoming  very  well  known,  many 
amateurs  have  collections  which  are  equal  to  the  best,  and  people 

247 


248  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

often  travel  long  distances  to  see  them  in  bloom.  Garden  roses,  too, 
have  their  societies  and  have  secured  a  place  in  the  regard  and  the 
knowledge  of  the  public  which  is  not  altogether  justified  by  their 
position  in  the  horticultural  world.  Aside  from  their  flowers  roses  have 
nothing  to  recommend  them  for  ornamental  planting.  Lilies,  small 
flowering  trees,  rhododendrons,  azaleas,  and  other  broad-leaved  ever- 
greens all  possess  better  foliage  and  are  more  free  from  bugs,  mildew, 
and  other  diseases. 

Magnificent  effects  may  be  secured  by  using  the  proper  sorts  of  lilies, 
properly  planted.  Lilies  seem,  on  the  whole,  to  thrive  better  in  soil 
which  is  full  of  the  roots  of  other  plants,  and  thus  they  are  most  happily 
used  in  conjunction  with  other  herbaceous  or  small  woody  plants. 
They  may  be  selected  to  provide  bloom  continuously  from  May  till 
September  and  to  suit  any  type  of  soil  or  condition  of  shade  or 
open  sun. 

During  recent  years  numerous  named  sorts  of  thorn  apples, 
crabapples,  flowering  cherries,  and  other  small  trees  have  been  put 
on  the  market.  These  trees  could,  with  splendid  results,  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  round-leaved  or  umbrella  catalpa  and  weeping  mul- 
berry of  the  old-time  nursery  salesman.  They  are  not  only  hardy, 
shapely,  and  beautiful  in  flower,  but  many  of  the  single-flowering 
sorts  produce  handsome  fruit  and  others  have  a  good  autumn 
colour. 

There  are  now  at  least  fifty  sorts  of  small  evergreen  shrubs  and  vines, 
aside  from  the  rhododendrons,  which  are  reasonably  hardy  throughout 
the  northern  states.  It  is  coming  to  be  generally  recognized  that, 
aside  from  the  antipathy  to  calcareous  soils  which  is  shown  by  the 
rhododendrons  and  other  ericaceae,  the  chief  drawback  to  the  use  of 
many  of  our  charming  broad-leaved  evergreens  has  not  been  so  much 
the  finding  of  a  proper  soil  as  the  securing  of  a  proper  exposure  and  a 
condition  of  continuous  moisture  without  stagnation.  As  the  smoki- 
ness  of  our  cities  continues  to  increase  the  list  of  coniferous  evergreens 
that  will  survive  this  condition  grows  smaller.  Therefore  for  winter 
effects  in  cities  we  should  turn  to  broad-leaved  evergreens,  many  of 
which  are  not  only  able  to  survive  smoke  and  dust,  provided  they  are 
occasionally  washed  down  and  are  kept  always  moist  at  the  roots, 
but  which  contain  among  them  some  of  the  finest  flowering  plants 
which  can  be  secured. 

Care    should    be   taken   when    purchasing   horticultural   varieties 


HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES 


249 


of  plants  not  to  invest  too  heavily  in  "novelties"  which  have  not  with- 
stood any  test  or  been  passed  upon  by  horticultural  societies  or  other 
authorities.  Many  so-called  novelties  are  merely  old  varieties,  which 
have  long  since  been  superseded,  masquerading  under  new  names 
while  others  are  likely  to  be  untried  and  may  be  undesirable  sorts.  The 
amateur  in  his  selection  of  horticultural  varieties  should  adhere  to 
standard  varieties  which  have  been  generally  recognized  for  a  con- 
siderable period.  The  use  of  horticultural  varieties  which  are  adver- 
tised as  a  good  substitute  for  standard  varieties,  unless  from  some 
reliable  nursery,  should  be  avoided. 

SELECT  LISTS  OF  HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES 

The  question  of  publishing  special  lists  of  the  more  standard  horti- 
cultural varieties  may  be  open  to  some  criticism.  These  lists  are  in- 
teresting for  reference.  The  writer  has  therefore  compiled  the  follow- 
ing lists  which  may  be  considered,  at  the  time  of  publication  of  this 
manuscript,  as  some  of  the  best  varieties  offered  by  the  trade.  Owing 
to  importation  and  hybridization,  new  varieties  are  introduced  each 
year  and,  after  being  thoroughly  tested,  should  be  added  to  these 
lists  in  order  to  keep  them  up  to  date. 


A.     LILACS. 

White: 

Single: 

Alba  Major 

Marie  Legraye 

Virginalis 

Princess  Alexandria 

Frau  Bertha  Damann 
Double: 

Miss  Ellen  Willmott 

Madame  Casimir  Perier 

Madame  Lemoine 

Rabelais 

Madame  Abel  Chatenay 

Pink  to  Rosy: 

Single: 

Gloire  de  Moulins 
Lilarosa 
Othello 
Machrostachya 

Double: 

Emile  Lemoine 
M.  Maxime  Cornu 
Belle  de  Nancy 


Blue  to  Bluish  Lavender: 
Single: 

Bleuatre 

Caerulea  superb* 

Colmariensis 
Double: 

President  Carnot 

Doyon  Keteleer 

President  Grevy 

Deep  Purple  Red  to  Reddish: 
Single: 

Congo 

Philemon 

Charles  X 

Souvenir  de  Ludwig  Spaeth 
Double: 

Charles  Joly 

La  Tour  d'Auvergne 


250 
B. 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


PEONIES. 


White: 

Le  Cygne 

Elizabeth  B.  Browning 

Kelway's  Glorious 

Festiva  Maxima 

Baroness  Schroeder 

Mme.  Emil  Lemoine 

Francis  Willard 

Albatre 

Alsace  Lorraine 

James  Kelway 

Enchantresse 

Marie  Lemoine 
Light  Pink: 

Therese 

Mme.  Jules  Dessert 

Tourangelle 

Lady  Alexander  Duff 

La  France 

La  Fee 

Martha  Bullock 

Mary  Woodbury  Shaylor 

Plea's  Jubilee 

Sarah  Bernhardt 

La  Fontaine 

Standard  Bearer 


La  Lorraine 
Mignon 
Elwood  Pleas 
Marie  Crousse 
Milton  Hill 
Rosa  Bonheur 
Georgiana  Shaylor 
Loveliness 
Opal 
Grandiflora 

Deep  Pink: 

Mons.  Jules  Elie 
Walter  Faxon 


Red: 


Phillipe  Rivoire 

Karl  Rosenfeld 

Longfellow 

Mary  Brand 

Mikado 

Richard  Carvel 

L'  Etincelante  (single) 

Mme.  Gaudichau 


Yellow: 


Solange 
Primevere 


C.    SMALL  FLOWERING  TREES. 

Crataegus  arnoldiana 

Large-flowering  Thorn 
Crataegus  carrieri 

Carrier's  Red-flowering  Thorn 

Crataegus  cordata 

Washington  Thorn 
Crataegus  mollis 

Red-flowering  Thorn 
Crataegus  monogyna  alba  plena 

Double  White-flowering  Hawthorn 
Crataegus  monogyna  punicea 

Single  Pink  Hawthorn 
Crataegus  monogyna  rosea 

Pink-flowering  Hawthorn 
Crataegus  monogyna  rubra  plena 

Double  Red-flowering  Hawthorn 
Crataegus  oxycantha  pauli 

Paul's  Double  Scarlet-flowering  Thorn 

Crataegus  puntcata 

Large-fruited  Thorn 
Prunus  cerasus  James  H.  Veitch 

Rose-pink  Flowering  Cherry 


Prunus  persica  alba  plena 

Double  White-flowering  Peach 

Prunus  persica  rosea  plena 
Double  Rose-flowering  Peach 

Prunus  serrulata  (many  forms) 
Japanese  Flowering  Cherry 

Prunus  sieboldi 

Japanese  Pink-flowering  Cherry 

Prunus  subhirtella  pendula 
Japanese  Weeping  Rose-flowering 
Cherry 

Prunus  triloba 
Flowering  Plum 

Pyrus  atrosanguinea 
Carmine-flowering  Crab 

Pyrus  baccata 

Siberian  Flowering  Crab 

Pyrus  halliana  parkmani 
Parkman's  Crab 

Pyrus  ioensis  bechteli 
Bechtel's  Crab 


HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES  251 

Pyrus  mains  niedzwetzkyana  Pyrus  sargenti 

Deep  Pink-flowering  Crab  Sargent's  White-flowering  Crab 

Pyrus  pulcherrima  arnoldiana  Pyrus  sieboldi 

Arnold's  Large  Rose-flowering  Crab  Siebold's  Blush-flowering  Crab 

Pyrus  pulcherrima  scheideckeri  Pyrus  spectabilis  riversi 

Scheidecker's    Semi-double    Rose-  Rivers'  Semi-double  Chinese  Flowering 

flowering  Crab  Crab 

Pyrus  zumi 
Low-growing  Japanese  Crab 

D.    ROSES. 

a.  Best  Climbing  Roses:     (The  first  three  have  proven  hardy  as 
far  north  as  central  Ontario.) 

Dorothy  Perkins  (Pink  clusters)  Dr.  W.  Van  Fleet  (Semi-double  light  pink) 

Baltimore  Belle  (Blush  clusters)  Silver  Moon  (Semi-double  white) 

Prairie  Queen  (Bright  pink  clusters)       Excelsa  (Red  Dorothy  Perkins) 
Tausendschoen  (Double  pink)  Hiawatha  (Single  red) 

American  Pillar  (Single  pink) 

b.  The   Hardiest  Garden  Roses:   (Tested  in  central  Ontario  and 
Maine.) 

1.  Hybrid  Perpetual,  Crimson  and  Red: 

Alfred  Colomb  John  Hopper 

Baron  de  Bonstetten  Marshall  P.  Wilder 

Eugene  Furst      ,  Ulrich  Brunner 

General  Jacqueminot  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan 

Gruss  an  Teplitz 

2.  Hybrid  Perpetual,  Pink: 

Paul  Neyron  Anna  de  Diesbach 

Mrs.  Sharman-Crawford  Magna  Charta 

Mrs.  John  Laing  Madame  Gabrielle  Luizet 

3.  Hybrid  Perpetual,  White: 

Margaret  Dickson  Madame  Plantier 

Frau  Karl  Druschki 

4.  Yellow  Roses: 

Hanson's  Yellow  Soleil  d'Or 

5.  Moss  Roses: 

Blanche  Moreau  Crested  Moss 

Glory  of  Mosses 

c.  The  best  hybrid  tea  roses: 

Duchess  of  Wellington  (yellow  to  orange)  Lady  Ashtown  (pale  rose) 

Killarney  (light  pink)  Jonkheer  J.  L.  Mock  (carmine) 

Kaiserin    Augusta    Victoria     (white    to  Gruss  an  Teplitz  (scarlet) 

lemon)  Harry  Kirk  (sulphur  yellow) 

Madame  Ravary  (orange  yellow)  Betty  (coppery  rose) 

Radiance  (rose  carmine)    "  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell  (coppery  salmon) 

Lvon  (salmon  pink)  Antoine  Rivoire  (flesh  to  cream) 
Madame  Jules  Bouche  (white  to  blush) 


252  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

E.     BROAD-LEAVED  EVERGREENS. 


a.     Rhododendrons  and  azaleas: 

Hybrids. 

Album  elegans  (light  blush) 
Album  grandiflora  (light  blush) 
Alexander  Dancer  (light  rose) 
Atrosanguineum  (blood  red  early) 
Caractacus  (rich  purplish  crimson) 
Charles  Bagley  (cherry  red,  late) 
Charles   Dickens    (bright   scarlet, 

early) 

C.  S.  Sargent  (rich  crimson) 
Lady  Armstrong  (pale  rose — best 

pink) 

Mrs.  C.  S.  Sargent  (bright  pink — simi- 
lar to  Everestianum) 
Mrs.  Milner  (rich  crimson) 
Roseum  elegans  (deep  rosy  purple) 
Boule  de  Neige  (best  dwarf  white) 
Caerulescens  (pale  lilac  blue) 
Everestianum  (rosy  lilac — the  best) 
F.  L.  Ames  (pale  pink) 
Guido  (rich  crimson) 
H.  W.  Sargent  (crimson,  late) 
James  Bateman  (rich  scarlet) 
Kettledrum  (deep  red,  late) 
Lady    Grey-Edgerton    (light    mauve, 

very  fine) 

Old  Port  (rich  crimson) 
Purpufeum  grandiflorum  (best  purple, 
late) 

Species. 
Rhododendron  maximum  (white  to  pink 

— June  to  July — tall) 
Rhododendron     catawbiense     (lilac     to 

purple) 
Rhododendron   catawbiense   album 

(white) 
Rhododendron      carolinianum      (rose — 

June)     Best  dwarf 


Rhododendron  arbutifolium  (rich  pink — 

July) 
Rhododendron  ferrugineum   (carmine — 

June  to  August) 
Rhododendron    hirsutum     (Pink — June 

to  August)     (Does  not  dislike  lime) 
Rhododendron  myrtifolium   (Deep  rosy 

pink— July) 
Rhododendron    smirnovi    (Rosy    red — 

May) 
Rhododendron  azaleoides  (Fragrant  pink 

— May  and  June) 
Rhododendron   campanulatum    (Lilac — 

June) 

Azaleas    (Hardy    except    in    windswept 

locations) 
Rhododendron   obtusum   amoenum 

(Purple — May)  (Azalea  amoena) 
Rhododendron      canadense      (Rhodora 

canadensis) 

Rhododendron  vaseyi  (Azalea  vaseyi) 
Rhododendron  nudiflorum  (Azalea 

lutea) 
Rhododendron       japonicum        (Azalea 

mollis) 
Rhododendron    canescens    (Azalea   -ca- 

nescens) 
Rhododendron    calendulaceum    (Azalea 

calendula) 
Rhododendron   arborescens  (Azalea   ar- 

borescens) 

Rhododendron  viscosum  (Azalea  viscosa) 
Rhododendron    kaempferi    (Rhododen- 
dron indicum  kaempferi) 
Rhododendron  morteri   (Azalea   ganda- 

vensis) 
Rhododendron  ledifolium  (Azalea  ledi- 

folia) 


b.     Other  broad-leaved  evergreens  which  should  be  tried: 


Andromeda  polifolia 

Wild  Rosemary 
Arctostaphylos  uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Aspidium  acrostichoides 

Christmas  Fern 
Aubrietia  deltoidea 

Purple  Rock  Cress 


Berberis  sargentiana 

Evergreen  Barberry 
Chamaedaphne  calyculata 

Leather-leaf 
Chimaphila  maculata 

Pipsissewa 
Chimaphila  umbellata 

Pipsissewa 


HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES 


253 


Chiogenes  hispidula 

Evergreen  Snowberry 
Cotoneaster  adpressa  (semi-evergreen) 

Creeping  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  horizontalis  (semi-evergreen) 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  microphylla 

Small-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Daphne  blagayana 

White  Garland  Flower 
Daphne  cneorum 

Garland  Flower 
Empetrum  atropurpureum 

Red-fruited  Crowberry 
Empetrum  nigrum 

Black-fruited  Crowberry 
Empetrum  eamesi 

Pink-fruited  Crowberry 
Epigaea  repens 

Trailing  Arbutus 
Evonymus  radicans  (in  variety) 

Climbing  Evonymus 
Galax  aphylla  (north  exposure  only) 

Galax 
Gaultheria  procumbens 

Wintergreen 
Helianthemum  chamaecistus 

Rock  Rose 
Helleborus  niger 

Christmas  Rose 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Sea  Buckthorn 
Hypericum  aureum 

Large-flowered  St.  John's  Wort 
Iberis  sempervirens 

Evergreen  Candytuft 
Kalmia  angustifolia 

Sheep  Laurel 
Kalmia  Carolina 

Carolina  Laurel 


Kalmia  latifolia  (in  variety) 
Mountain  Laurel 


Kalmia  polifolia 

Swam    Laurel 
Ledum  groenlandicum 

Labrador  Tea 
Ledum  palustre 

Narrow-leaved  Labrador  Tea 
Leiophyllum  buxifolium 

Sand  Myrtle 
Leucotho'e  catesbaei 

Catesby's  Andromeda 
Mahonia  aquifolium  (scorches  in  sun) 

Oregon  Grape 
Mahonia  repens 

Creeping  Mahonia 
Mahonia  pinnata  wagneri 

Pinnate-leaved  Mahonia 
Pachysandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 
Pieris  floribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 
Polygala  chamaebuxus 

Box-leaved  Milkwort 
Potentilla  tridentata 

Evergreen  Cinquefoil 
Pyracantha  coccinea 

Evergreen  Thorn 
Pyracantha  coccinea  pauciflora 

Low-growing  Fiery  Thorn 
Pyxidanthera  barbulata 

Flowering  Moss 
Shortia  galacifolia 

Shortia 
Thymus  serpyllum  lanuginosus 

Downy  Thyme 
Vaccinium  (in  variety) 

Blueberry 
Viburnum  rhytidophyllum 

Evergreen  Viburnum 
Vinca  minor 

Periwinkle 


Yucca  filamentosa 
Adam's  Needle 
Zenobia  puherulenta 
Zenobia 


F.    LILIES. 

a.     List  of  lilies: 

The  following  table  contains  the  best  sorts  for  the  average  grower 
and  indicates  the  culture,  season  of  bloom,  colour  of  flower,  and  usual 


254 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


height.  There  are  four  clearly  defined  types  of  lilies  as  indicated  in 
the  table  by  the  letters  A,  B,  C,  and  D.  First  the  funnel  form  like  the 
Easter  lily  (A);  then  the  pendant,  spreading,  or  bell  form  (B).  The 
same  flower  erect  is  the  cup-like  type  (C),  which  flowers  earliest  of  all; 
and  the  Turk's  cap  group  with  petals  completely  reversed  (D). 

(o)  All  the  lilies  marked  thus  should  thrive  in  any  ordinary  fertile 
garden  soil.  If  the  available  soil  is  naturally  compact  or  adhesive  it 
can  be  lightened  and  made  more  porous  by  digging  some  coarse  sand 
or  leaf  mold  into  it.  If  the  soil  is  light  and  sandy,  procure  and  incor- 
porate with  it  some  clay  loam;  but  in  a  broad  sense  all  these  lilies  can  be 
depended  upon  to  live  and  increase  under  average  garden  conditions. 

(+)  These  lilies  require  a  good  soil  and  if  the  soil  is  heavy  it 
should  be  lightened  by  the  addition  of  some  leaf  mold  or  peat;  these 
lilies  do  not  quite  so  well  withstand  heat  and  drought  either.  Partial 
shade  is  beneficial,  especially  at  their  roots,  which  can  be  provided  by 
interplanting  them  among  other  plants  that  will  shade,  yet  not  too 
densely  cover  the  ground. 

(  =  )  This  group  embraces  all  native  species  and  they  are  shade 
and  moisture  loving.  Although  they  lift  up  their  tall  flower  spikes  to 
the  bright  sun,  they  like  a  cool  root  run  at  all  times.  In  a  cool  north 
corner,  or  by  lake  or  stream  or  in  any  moist  hollow,  about  or  near  the 
garden,  these  lilies  are  a  host  in  themselves  wherewith  to  make  a  sum- 
mer picture. 

(*)  Lilies  marked  in  this  manner  are  stem-rooting.  Therefore 
they  can  be  transplanted  in  the  spring. 

TABLE  OF  LILIES 


KEY 

TRADE   OR 
NURSERY  CATA- 
LOGUE  NAME 

SEASON   OF 
BLOOM 

TYPE  OF 
FLOWER 

COLOUR   OF 
FLOWER 

AVERAGE 
HEIGHT 

*       o 

elegans      aluta- 

May 

C 

Apricot 

9  inches 

ceum 

*       o 

bulbiferum 

June 

C 

Crimson 

i  foot 

*       o 

elegans       Alice 

Wilson 

June 

C 

Lemon  yellow 

lift. 

*       o 

elegans  aurora 

June 

C 

Orange,  suffused  with 

red 

*       o 

elegans    incom- 

parabile 

June 

C 

Rich      crimson      red 

spotted  with  black 

if  ft. 

*       o 

elegans        van- 

houttei 

June 

C 

Crimson 

i  ft. 

HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES 

TABLE  OF  LILIES  (Continued) 


255 


KEY 

TRADE   OR 
NURSERY    CATA- 
LOGUE  NAME 

SEASON   OF 
BLOOM 

TYPE   OF 
FLOWER 

COLOUR  OF 
FLOWER 

AVERAGE 
HEIGHT 

o 

tenuifolium 

June 

D 

Bright  scarlet 

If  ft. 

+ 

browni 

June,  July 

A 

Pure     white     inside, 

reddish  brown  out 

2  to  3  ft. 

0 

candidum 

June,  July 

A 

Purest  white 

4  ft. 

0 

croceum 

June,  July 

C 

Deep  orange 

3  to  4  ft. 

o 

maculatum 

(hansoni) 

June,  July 

D 

Rich    yellow    spotted 

with  black 

3  to  4  ft. 

o 

martagon 

June,  July 

D 

Purple 

3  ft. 

o 

elegans        (um- 

bellatum    da- 

huricum) 

June,  July 

C 

Variable  pale  yellow 

through   orange   to 

deepest  crimson 

2ft. 

= 

canadense 

July 

D 

Variable  in  shades  of 

yellow  and  red 

3ft- 

o 

chalet  'donicum 

July 

D 

Bright  scarlet 

3  to  4  ft. 

o 

elegans    cenus- 

V 

tum   macran- 

thum 

July 

C 

Orange 

2ft. 

o 

testaceum     (ex- 

celsum) 

July 

D 

Nankeen  yellow, 

unique  in  colour  ef- 

fect 

4  to  C  ft. 

+ 

grayi 
humboldti 

B 

D 
D 

Red,  purple  spots 
Yellow,  purple,  white 

4ft. 
4  to  6  ft. 

o 

longiflorum  zvil- 

soni 

July 

A 

White 

3  to  4  ft. 

o 

martagon  album 

July 

D 

Pure  white 

3ft- 

o 

martagon      dal- 

maticum 

July 

D 

Dark  blackish  purple 

4  to  6  ft. 

+ 

szovitzianum 

July 

D 

Pale   to   deep   yellow 

spotted  with  black 

4  to  5  ft. 

+ 

pardalinum 

July,   August 

D 

Varies  from  orange  to 

bright  red 

6  to  8  ft. 

m 

suDerbum 

July,   August 

D 

Orange  red  to  crim- 

son, black  spotted 

6  to  8  ft. 

+ 

auratum   platy- 

phyllum 

August 

C 

White,    red    spotted, 

and  yellow  banded 

4ft. 

+ 

auratum 

August 

C 

White,  crimson 

spotted,  yellow 

banded  down  centre 

of  each  petal 

4ft. 

+ 

auratum    virgi- 

nale 

August 

C 

White,  yellow  spotted 

yellow  banded 

4ft. 

+ 

auratum  rubro- 

vittatum 

August 

C 

White,  crimson  band 

down  each  petal 

4ft, 

256 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

TABLE  OF  LILIES  (Continued) 


KEY 

TRADE   OR 

NURSERY  CATA- 
LOGUE  NAME 

SEASON   OF 
BLOOM 

TYPE  OF 
FLOWER 

COLOUR  OF 
FLOWER 

AVERAGE 
HEIGHT 

+ 

auratum  wittei 

August 

C 

White,  unspotted,  yel- 

low banded 

4ft. 

*       o 

batemanniae 

(elegans    ful- 

gens) 

August 

c 

Rich  apricot 

4ft. 

*       o 

tigrinum 

August 

B 

Red,  heavily  spotted 

3  >  4  ft. 

*      o 

tigrinum  splen- 

dens 

August 

C 

Apricot,  yellow  with 

dark  spots 

3  to  4  ft. 

*  + 

elegans  wallacci 

Deep  orange  yellow, 

darker    protuber- 

ances 

4  to  8  ft. 

*       o 

henryi 

August,  Sept. 

B 

*       o 

speciosum      al- 

bum 

August,  Sept. 

B 

Pure  white 

3ft. 

*       o 

speciosum     ru- 

brum 

August,  Sept. 

B 

Rose  coloured 

3ft- 

*       o 

speciosum    mel- 

pomene 

August,  Sept. 

B 

Dark  crimson  purple 

3ft- 

*       o 

tigrinum      for- 

tunei 

August,  Sept. 

B 

Red,  heavily  spotted 

4  ft. 

b.  Easy  culture  in  garden  soil: 

Lilium  auratum 

Gold-banded  Lily 
Lilium  candidum 

Madonna  Lily 
Lilium  croceum 

Alpine  Lily 
Lilium  philadelphicum 

Wild  Red  Lily 
Lilium  regale 

Regal  Lily 

c .  Moist  and  boggy  locations: 

Lilium  canadense 

Wild  Yellow  Lily 
Lilium  parryi 

Parry's  Lily 
Lilium  parvum 

Sierra  Nevada  Lily 


Lilium  tenuifolium 
Coral  Lily 

Lilium  tigrinum 
Tiger  Lily 

Lilium  speciosum  (especially  variety 

rubrum) 
Showy  Lily 

Lilium  wallacei 
Wallace's  Thunbergian  Lily 


Lilium  roezli 

Santa  Cruz  Lily 
'Lilium  pardalinum 

Leopard  Lily 
Lilium  superbum 

American  Turk's  Cap  Lily 


HORTICULTURAL  VARIETIES  257 

d.  Calcareous  soil: 

Lilium  candidum  Lilium  monadelphum 

Madonna  Lily  Caucasian  Lily 

Lilium  hansoni  Lilium  martagon 

Golden  Turk's  Cap  Lily  European  Turk's  Cap  Lily 

Lilium  testaceum 
Nankeen  Lily 

e.  Open  sunny  positions: 

Lilium  candidum  Lilium  martagon 

Madonna  Lily  European  Turk's  Cap  Lily 

Lilium  croceum  Lilium  monadelphum 

Alpine  Lily  Caucasian  Lily 

Lilium  elegans  Lilium  tigrinum 

Thunbergian  Lily  Tiger  Lily 
Lilium  philadelphicum  (best  of  all) 
Wild  Red  Lily 

/.     Undergrowth  under  shrubs  and  small  trees: 

Lilium  speciosum  (all  sorts) 
Showy  Lily 

g.     Sandy  or  dry  soils: 

Lilium  bolanderi  Lilium  philadelphicum 

Boland's  Lily  Wild  Red  Lily 

Lilium  carolinianum 
Southern  Swamp  Lily 

h.     Clay  soil: 

Lilium  candidum  Lilium  hansoni 

Madonna  Lily  Golden  Turk's  Cap  Lily 

Lilium  croceum  Lilium  monodelphum 

Alpine  Lily  Caucasian  Lily 

Lilium  elegans  Lilium  tigrinum 

Thunbergian  Lily  Tiger  Lily 

Lilium  philadelphicum 
Wild  Red  Lily 

i.     Shady  locations: 

Lilium  auratum  Lilium  japonicum 
Gold-banded  Lily  Japanese  Lily 

Lilium  hansoni  Lilium  parryi 
Golden  Turk's  Cap  Lily  Parry's  Lily 

Lilium  henryi  Lilium  washingtonianum 
Yellow  Showy  Lily  Washington  Lily 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 

VINES 

VINES  constitute  a  small  but  important  group  of  plants  possessing 
certain  characteristics  which  are  very  valuable  for  use  in  landscape 
design.  The  annual  vines  develop  to  maturity  and  must  be  started 
again  each  season  from  seed.  Perennial  vines,  once  firmly  established, 
continue  to  increase  indefinitely,  at  least  during  a  period  of  years. 
Many  vines,  such  as  the  wisteria  and  ivies,  are  seen  on  buildings  hun- 
dreds of  years  old  and,  in  general,  the  average  long-lived  vine  will  out- 
live its  period  of  usefulness  on  any  building,  especially  on  wooden 
structures,  which  are  subject  to  decay  and  to  periodical  repairs. 

To  many  people  a  "vine  is  a  vine"  without  any  differentiation  as  to 
its  usefulness.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  vines  may  be  divided  into  certain 
definite  groups  which  are  valuable  for  different  purposes.  The  knot- 
weed,  honeysuckle,  and  climbing  roses  represent  a  group  which  are 
very  desirable  for  their  flowering  effect.  It  often  happens  that  vines 
are  desired,  not  so  much  for  their  screen  effects  as  for  the  effect  of  pro- 
ducing flowers  within  a  limited  space,  and  thus  adding  spots  of  beauty 
to  otherwise  unattractive  and  monotonous  surfaces. 

It  is  quite  necessary  in  selecting  vines  for  use  on  brick  work,  stone 
and  masonry  surfaces,  that  the  method  of  growth  of  such  vines  should 
be  fully  understood.  Those  vines  which  grow  upon  fences  and  lattice 
work  are  either  scramblers  or  twiners  or  they  grow  by  means  of  ten- 
drils, as  do  the  Virginia  creeper  and  the  grape.  None  of  these  vines  are 
adapted  for  use  on  brick  work  and  masonry  surfaces.  There  is  a  group 
of  vines  which  grow  and  cling  to  these  surfaces  by  means  of  little 
growths,  at  intervals  along  their  stems,  the  tips  of  which,  as  soon  as 
they  come  in  contact  with  any  surface,  produce  a  sticky  fluid  that 
immediately  "cements"  the  vine  to  the  wall.  In  the  case  of  the  Bos- 
ton ivy  the  little  tendril,  at  the  tip  of  which  is  the  adhesive  substance, 
has  a  tendency  to  contract  in  the  manner  of  a  twisted  cord  and  thus 
pull  the  stem  closer  to  the  wall.  This  is  a  peculiar  provision  of  nature. 
This  list  of  vines  is  comparatively  small  and  is  represented  generally 

258 


VINES  259 

by  the  Boston  ivy,  English  ivy,  and  the  climbing  evonymus  or  Japa- 
nese evergreen  ivy.  The  ivies  in  general  are  much  more  rapid 
growers  than  the  evonymus. 

There  is  one  group  of  vines  which  possesses  a  very  vigorous  climbing 
habit  and  develops  a  heavy  foliage,  such  as  the  Dutchman's  pipe, 
Virginia  creeper,  kudzu  vine,  and  the  knotweed.  Of  this  list  of  vines 
the  American  bitter-sweet  and  the  Dutchman's  pipe  possess  an  inter- 
esting heavy  foliage. 

Vines  are  valuable  not  only  for  their  flowering  effect  but  they  are 
valuable  for  the  effect  of  their  fruit  also.  Some  vines,  such  as  the 
matrimony  vine,  with  its  brilliant  orange  fruit,  and  the  American 
bitter-sweet,  with  its  red  and  orange  fruit,  together  with  the  Virginia 
creeper,  with  its  interesting  blue  fruit,  are  valuable  in  a  landscape  set- 
ting far  into  the  winter  months. 

Oftentimes  local  conditions  require  the  selection  of  a  permanent 
vine  with  a  fast  growing  habit.  It  may  not  be  advisable  to  use  annuals, 
but  rather  to  use  a  more  permanent  type  and  accordingly  the  designer 
resorts  to  such  plants  as  the  Dutchman's  pipe,  the  knotweed,  and  the 
kudzu  vine,  which  under  normal  conditions  will  make  a  growth 
ranging  from  ten  to  forty  feet  in  a  single  season.  The  knotweed  is  not 
entirely  hardy  in  severe  exposures  and  the  young  plants  should  not  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground  before  the  latter  part  of  May. 

In  general,  vines  fill  a  gap  in  the  field  of  landscape  planting  which 
cannot  be  filled  with  shrubs.  Where  conditions  develop  in  which  only 
a  limited  space  is  available  for  foliage,  flower  and  fruiting  effects, 
vines  must  be  accepted  as  the  logical  solution  of  the  planting  problem. 
A  quite  common  mistake  in  the  use  of  vines  is  to  select  types  which  are 
too  fast  growing  or  which  are  not  adapted  to  the  special  purpose  for 
which  they  are  used.  A  common  mistake  also  is  that  of  covering 
interesting  pieces  of  brick  work  and  stone  masonry  with  vines  which 
completely  obscure  the  beauty  of  the  architectural  detail.  Vines 
should  be  used  on  buildings  to  emphasize  the  architectural  detail; 
otherwise  there  is  little  use  in  spending  sums  of  money  to  produce 
added  beauty  in  architecture  if  such  detail  is  immediately  to  be 
covered  with  vines.  We  often  see  an  elevation  of  a  house  on  which 
appears  a  chimney  with  the  entire  surface  of  the  house  and  chimney 
covered  with  vines.  In  such  instances  the  vines,  for  the  purpose  of 
architectural  composition,  should  be  planted  only  on  the  chimney  or 
on  the  surfaces  at  either  side  of  the  chimney  and  not  on  the  chimney. 


26o  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Many  persons  object  to  the  use  of  certain  types  of  vines  such  as  the 
Virginia  creeper  and  the  ivies,  which  form  a  beautiful  roosting  place 
for  sparrows  immediately  opposite  sleeping-room  windows,  and  for  such 
locations  a  type  of  vine  similar  to  the  evonymus  should  be  used,  which 
does  not  provide  a  shelter  for  these  pests. 

LIST  OF  VINES 

The  vines  included  in  the  groups  of  this  list  are  respectively  valuable 
for  their  ability  to  produce  flowers,  for  their  use  on  brick  and  stone 
masonry,  for  foliage  effect,  for  fruiting  characteristics,  and  for  their 
fast  growing  characteristics.  Certain  vines  may  be  included  in  one 
or  more  groups  because  of  the  value  of  certain  characteristics  in  each 
group.  It  should  be  remembered  that  the  distinction  between  vines  of 
different  types  for  different  purposes  is  equally  as  marked  as  the  differ- 
ence in  shrubs  and  perennials. 

A.  Flowering: 

Actinidia  arguta  Lonicera  (in  variety) 

Dark-leaved  Silver  Vine  Honeysuckle 

Aristolochia  sipho  Polygonum  baldschuanicum 

Dutchman's  Pipe  Knotweed 

Bignonia  radicans  Quamoclit  pinnata 

Trumpet  Vine  Cypress  Vine 

Clematis  (in  variety)  Rosa  (in  variety) 

Clematis  Climbing  Rose 

Lathryus  latifolius  Wisteria  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Sweet  Pea  Wisteria 

B.  Use  on  Brick,  Stone,  and  Masonry: 

Ampelopsis  engelmanni  Bignonia  radicans 

Engelmann's  Ampelopsis  Trumpet  Vine 

Ampelopsis  tricuspidata  lowi  Evonymus  radicans 

Lowe  s  Boston  Ivy  Climbing  Evonymus 

Ampelopsis  tricuspidata  veitchi  Hedera  helix 

Boston  Ivy  English  Ivy 

Schizophragma  hydrangeoides 
Climbing  Hydrangea 

C.  Climbing  Habit  and  Heavy  Foliage: 

Actinidia  (in  variety)  Aristolochia  sipho 
Silver  Vine  Dutchman's  Pipe 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Bignonia  radicans 
Virginia  Creeper  Trumpet  Vine 


VINES 


261 


Celastrus  scandens 

American  Bitter-sweet 
Clematis  paniculata 

Japanese  Clematis 
Clematis  virginiana 

Wild  Clematis 
Evonymus  radicans 

Climbing  Evonymus 


Lonicera  (in  variety) 

Honeysuckle 
Periploca  graeca 

Silk  Vine 
Pueraria  thunbergiana 

Kudzu  Vine 
Wisteria  (in  variety) 

Wisteria 


D.     Fruiting: 

Actinidia  (in  variety) 

Silver  Vine 
Akebia  quinata 

Five-leaved  Akebia 
Ampelopsis  aconitifolia 

Cut-leaved  Vitis 
Ampelopsis  heterophytta 

Asiatic  Creeper 
Ampelopsis  quinquefolia 

Virginia  Creeper 
Celastrus  orbiculatus 

Japanese  Bitter-sweet 


Celastrus  scandens 

American  Bitter-sweet 
Clematis  paniculata 

Japanese  Clematis 
Clematis  virginiana 

Wild  Clematis 
Lycium  halimifolium 

Matrimony  Vine 
Rosa  (in  variety) 

Climbing  Rose 
Solanum  dulcamara 

Woody  Nightshade 


E.     Fast  Growing: 

Actinidia  (in  variety) 

Silver  Vine 
Ampelopsis  aconitifolia 

Cut-leaved  Vitis 
Ampelopsis  heterophylla 

Asiatic  Creeper 
Aristolochia  sipho 

Dutchman's  Pipe 
Bignonia  radicans 

Trumpet  Vine 


Clematis  paniculata 

Japanese  Clematis 
Humulus  japonicus 

Japanese  Hop 
Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Japanese  Honeysuckle 
Periploca  graeca 

Silk  Vine 


Pueraria  thunbergiana 

Kudzu  Vine 
Polygonum  baldschuanicum 
Knotweed 


CHAPTER  XXXV 


STRICTLY  speaking,  window  boxes  do  not  come  under  the  category 
of  planting  or  designing  the  grounds,  but  in  a  vital  way  they  serve  to 
tie  the  house  to  the  lawn  and  gardens  and  thus  help  to  produce  the 
immediate  effect  of  a  harmonious  whole.  Particularly  are  they 
valuable  in  imparting  a  cozy  and  "lived-in"  atmosphere  to  a  new 
house.  Many  otherwise  uninteresting  houses  have  been  made  very 
attractive  through  the  use  of  window  boxes.  A  severe  type  of  archi- 
tecture demands  a  window-box  treatment  developed  with  the  heavier 
kinds  of  foliage  plants  such  as  English  ivy,  geraniums,  and  fuchsias, 
while  a  lighter  architectural  design  requires  vincas,  snapdragons,  and 
ageratums.  The  selection  of  plants  for  successful  window  boxes  must 
be  the  result  of  some  study  of  the  effect  to  be  produced  and  the  kinds  of 
materials  necessary  to  produce  the  effect. 

Not  all  of  our  plants  can  be  used  in  window-box  planting.  Plants 
for  this  purpose  must  retain  their  foliage  throughout  the  summer,  the 
period  of  bloom  must  continue  for  a  number  of  weeks,  and  the  normal 
growth  of  the  plant  should  not  be  impaired  by  crowding  the  root 
development  within  a  small  area. 

Two  cardinal  principles  apply  to  the  design  and  use  of  window 
boxes.  Never  put  window  boxes  on  a  building  unless  the  architectural 
composition  requires  them,  and  do  not  select  for  them  plants  which 
are  out  of  scale  with  the  architectural  detail.  When  planning  the 
window  boxes  the  effect  of  the  colour  scheme  should  be  considered 
from  the  inside  of  the  various  rooms  in  the  house  as  well  as  the  effect 
upon  the  aspect  of  the  house  itself. 

There  are  numerous  possibilities  outside  of  the  conventional  boxes 
planted  with  periwinkle,  geraniums,  and  daisies.  Almost  any  of  the 
showy  dwarf-growing  annuals  may  be  used  and  the  opportunity  for 
various  colour  schemes  with  them  is  practically  endless. 

If  bright  colour  is  needed  the  dwarf,  giant-flowering  snapdragon, 
which  comes  in  many  brilliant  shades  and  grows  about  twelve  inches 

262 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  HANGING  BASKETS         263 

high,  is  good.  The  dwarf  zinnia  is  perhaps  even  more  brilliant  in  its 
various  colours.  It  is  also  stiffer  in  its  habit  of  growth  and  conse- 
quently better  for  a  windy  location.  California  poppies  can  be  had  in 
all  shades  of  yellow  and  orange  and  could  be  used  with  nicotiana  for  a 
white  and  yellow  box.  Another  good  combination  is  blue  lobelia,  pink 
verbena,  and  asparagus  fern. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  select  the  flowers  which  will  bloom  simul- 
taneously. Foliage  plants  should  be  used  to  provide  an  abundance 
of  green,  and  enough  vines  and  flowers  of  a  drooping  habit  should  be  in- 
troduced to  counteract  the  stiffness  of  the  box. 

When  planting,  pack  the  roots  in  firmly  on  account  of  the  wind. 
For  an  unusually  windy  position  it  is  best  to  use  a  deeper  box.  In 
choosing  the  plants,  exposure  is  the  first  important  consideration.  (See 
the  following  lists.)  For  sunny  positions  the  more  vigorous  growing 
and  flowering  plants  are  apt  to  do  best,  while  in  shade  ferns  and 
foliage  plants,  generally  speaking,  are  more  successful.  In  a  dusty 
location  smoother-leaved  plants  such  as  myrtle  and  ivy  geraniums 
should  be  used. 

Inside  window  boxes  should  get  sunshine  and  plenty  of  fresh  air 
but  must  never  be  placed  in  a  draft.  The  temperature  for  the  average 
house  plant  is  between  55°  at  night  to  70°  in  the  daytime.  The  plants 
should  be  watered  regularly  and  the  foliage  sprayed  two  or  three  times 
a  week,  with  the  exception  of  those  plants  with  fuzzy  foliage,  such  as 
gloxinia,  where  moisture  upon  the  leaves  would  cause  decay.  Hang- 
ing baskets  should  be  lined  with  moss  in  order  to  retain  their  moisture. 

The  soil  used  in  all  window  boxes  must  be  rich,  as  the  roots  are  so 
crowded  and  ample  plant  food  must  be  available.  A  good  soil  mix- 
ture for  this  purpose  is  two  parts  garden  loam,  one  part  rotted  leaf 
mold,  and  one  part  sand,  mixed  with  one  part  well-rotted  manure. 
This  mixture  can  be  procured  from  any  florist.  As  the  box  becomes 
filled  with  roots  it  is  necessary  to  furnish  food  to  the  plants  by  working 
into  the  soil  a  small  amount  of  bone  meal  or  well-rotted  manure  every 
week  or  ten  days. 

The  box  may  be  constructed  of  various  materials:  concrete,  terra 
cotta,  or  wood.  The  inside  measurements  for  a  window  box  should  be 
six  inches  to  eight  inches  deep  and  ten  inches  to  twelve  inches  wide. 
The  outside  measurements  should  be  fourteen  inches  wide  and  one 
inch  shorter  than  the  window  or  space  it  is  to  occupy.  A  very  long 
box  can  be  made  in  sections  averaging  three  feet  to  four  feet  in  length, 


264  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

to  facilitate  the  handling  of  it.  Three-quarter  inch  holes  should  be 
bored  in  the  bottom  of  the  box  every  twelve  inches,  to  provide  drainage. 
A  zinc  or  galvanized  iron  lining  in  a  wooden  box  is  desirable  but  not 
absolutely  necessary.  However,  if  a  lining  is  not  used  it  is  best  to 
have  the  inside  of  the  box  charred  to  prevent  rotting  of  the  wood. 
This  is  done  by  washing  the  inside,  both  bottom  and  sides,  with  kero- 
sene and  then  lighting  the  oil  and  allowing  it  to  burn  until  a  thin 
charred  coating  is  formed.  The  box  is  turned  upside  down  to  smother 
the  flames.  The  most  permanent  types  of  window  boxes  are  lined  with 
copper.  All  boxes,  whether  or  not  they  are  lined,  must  be  provided 
with  holes  for  drainage.  The  absence  of  these  holes  may  cause  the 
soil  to  become  sour  from  overwatering,  a  condition  which  is  avoided 
when  drainage  is  provided. 

,  A.  WINDOW  BOXES.  The  following  group  of  plants  are  those 
adapted  for  window  boxes  in  varying  exposures  of  sunlight.  These 
plants  should  not  be  placed  in  window  boxes  which  cannot  be  thor- 
oughly drained  unless  great  care  is  exercised  in  watering;  otherwise 
the  soil  will  become  sour  and  the  plants  will  be  "drowned  out." 

a.  South  or  west  exposure: 

Ageratum  houstonianum  (dwarf)  Hfdera  helix 

Floss  Flower  English  Ivy 

Antirrhinum  (intermediate  or  dwarf)  Heliotropium  peruvianum 

Snapdragon  Heliotrope 

Codiaeum  (in  variety)  Lobelia 

Croton  Annual  Lobelia 

Dracaena  indivisa  Maurandia  (in  variety) 

Dracena  Maurandy  Vine 

Geranium  S.  H.  Nutt  Nepeta  glechoma 

Cardinal  Geranium  Ground  Ivy 

Geranium  Bruant  Pelargonium  peltatum 

Scarlet  Geranium  Ivy-leaved  Geranium 

Geranium  Beaute  Poitevine  Phlox  drummondi 

Salmon  Double  Geranium  Drummond's  Phlox 

Swainsona  galegifolia 
Swainsonia 

b.  East  exposure: 

Antirrhinum  (dwarf  or  intermediate)  Dracaena  indivisa 

Snapdragon  Dracena 

Begonia  (tuberous-tooted)  Ferns 

Tuberous  Begonia  Many  varieties 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  HANGING  BASKETS         265 

Heliotropium  peruvianum  Petunia  hybrida. 

Heliotrope  Petunia 

Linaria  cymbalaria  Solanum  jasminoides 

Kenilworth  Ivy  Jerusalem  Cherry  Vine 

Pelargonium    peltatum    Chas.     Turner        Tropaeolum  majus 
Ivy-leaved  Geranium  Nasturtium 

V inca  major  (variegated) 
Trailing  Vinca 

c.     North  exposure: 

Ageratum  houstonianum  (dwarf)  Fuchsia  (in  variety) 

Floss  Flower  Trailing  Fuchsia 

Asparagus  sprengeri  Ipomoea  (in  variety) 

Asparagus  Fern  Morning  Glory 

Caladium  (small  leaf  varieties)  Nepeta  glechoma 

Elephant's  Ear  Ground  Ivy 

Fern  Petunia  hybrida 

Boston  Fern  Petunia 

Vinca  major  (variegated) 
Trailing  Vinca 

B.  HANGING  BASKETS.  The  group  of  plants  adapted  for  use  in 
hanging  baskets  is  much  larger  than  might  at  first  be  anticipated. 
The  great  danger  in  the  cultivation  of  plants  in  hanging  baskets  is  the 
danger  of  drying  out. 

a.     Vine-like  habit: 

Asparagus  sprengeri  Nepeta  glechoma 

Asparagus  Fern  Ground  Ivy 

Cobaea  scandens  Oxalis  floribunda 

Cup  and  Saucer  Vine  Oxalis 

Fuchsia  procumbens  Passiflora  caerulea 

Trailing  Fuchsia  Passion  Flower 

Hedera  helix  Petunia  hybrida 

English  Ivy  Petunia 

Ipomoea  (in  variety)  Saxifraga  sarmentosa 

Morning  Glory  Strawberry  Geranium 

Lantana  (in  variety)  Senecio  scandens 

Lantana  Summer  Ivy 

Linaria  cymbalaria  Solanum  jasminoides 

Kenilworth  Ivy  Jerusalem  Cherry  Vine 

Lobelia  speciosa  Thunbergia  alata 

Lobelia  Thunbergia 

Lysimachia  nummularia  Tropaeolum  majus 

Moneywort  Nasturtium 

Maur&ndia  (in  variety)  Verbena  hybrida 

Maurandy  Vine  Verbena 

Vinca  major  (variegated) 
Trailing  Vinca 


266 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


b.     Upright  habit  and  good  flowers: 

Begonia  (tuberous  varieties) 

Tuberous  Begonia 
Cuphea  llavea 

Cigar  Plant 
Fuchsia  (in  variety) 

Ladies'  Eardrop 
Geranium  (in  variety) 

Geranium 
Impatient  sultana 

Touch-me-not 


Lantana  (in  variety) 

Lantana 
Nierembergia  gracilis 

White  Cup 
Petunia  hybrida 

Petunia 
Salvia  splendens 

Scarlet  Sage 
Stevia  serrata  nana 

Dwarf  Stevia 


c.     Upright  habit  and  good  foliage: 

Aspidistra  lurida 

Tall  Evergreen  Aspidistra 
Caladium 

Elephant's  Ear 
Cineraria  maritima 

Dusty  Miller 
Coleus  blumei  verschaffelti 

Coleus 


Cyperus  alternifolius 

Umbrella  Plant 
Dracaena  indivisa 

Dracena 
Fern 

(in  variety) 
Iresine  lindeni 

Narrow-leaved  Achyranthes 


Palms  (in  variety) 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 
BULBS 

THIS  is  a  type  of  planting  which  can  provide  as  many  interesting 
flower  effects  as  any  annual,  perennial,  or  shrub  planting.  It  is  the 
type  of  planting  that  provides  flowers  at  a  period  of  the  year  from  late 
March  until  the  latter  part  of  May,  when  the  garden  and  lawn  are 
otherwise  bare  of  flowers.  The  information  concerning  this  group  of 
plantings  covering  the  possible  types  to  be  used,  the  effects  to  be  ob- 
tained, and  the  care  of  the  mature  plants,  has  not  been  so  freely  dis- 
tributed to  the  owners  of  our  homes  as  it  should  have  been.  After  the 
monotonous,  uninteresting  landscape  presented  by  the  lawn  and  garden 
areas  in  the  vicinity  of  residences  during  the  long  winter  months,  these 
touches  of  flower  effects  are  of  double  value  as  an  introduction  to  the 
possibilities  of  the  flowering  shrubs  and  garden  plants.  So  important 
is  this  subject  that  an  entire  chapter  of  this  book,  Chapter  VI,  has 
been  devoted  to  the  culture  of  bulbs. 

It  is  the  general  impression  that  "bulbs  are  bulbs"  for  practically 
one  use.  It  is  not  realized  that  such  a  wide  variation  exists  in  the 
purposes  for  which  bulbs  may  be  used  and  in  the  different  types  of 
bulbs  which  are  used. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  with  the  proper  planting  of  bulbs,  a  continuous 
succession  of  flowers  can  be  obtained  during  a  normal  season  from 
the  middle  part  of  March,  beginning  with  the  crocuses  and  the  early 
narcissi,  extending  through  the  early  part  of  May,  with  the  early  tulips 
and  the  late  narcissi,  and  ending  with  the  Darwin  tulips  during  the 
last  part  of  May  to  be  immediately  followed  by  such  garden  flowers 
as  the  early  iris,  the  columbine,  the  alyssum,  and  the  lilac. 

There  are  bulbs  which  are  logically  adapted  to  refined  lawn  and 
garden  areas,  bulbs  which  are  adapted  for  naturalizing  in  woodlands 
and  wild  gardens,  interesting  combinations  of  bulbs,  and  types  of  bulbs 
valuable  for  forcing  during  the  late  winter  months.  The  life  of  the 
average  bulb  under  normal  conditions  is  approximately  three  years 
after  which  time  the  bulbs  must  be  replaced  with  new  material;  the 

267 


268  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

only  exception  being  that  such  bulbs  as  those  of  the  crocus  and  three 
varieties  of  narcissi,  Von  Sion,  Victoria,  and  the  poet's,  will  continue  to 
multiply  under  ideal  conditions  for  a  number  of  years,  provided  the 
tops  are  permitted  to  remain  a  sufficient  time  after  flowering  in  order 
to  ripen  the  bulb. 

In  the  selection  of  bulbs  for  garden  plantings  we  have  practically  the 
entire  field  from  which  to  draw  for  material  adapted  to  the  refined  lawn 
and  garden  planting.  The  degree  of  refinement  depends  largely  upon 
our  knowledge  of  the  proper  combinations  of  bulbs  which  will  give 
interesting  flower  effects,  flowers  that  appear  at  the  same  and  at  suc- 
cessive dates,  and  flowers  of  the  same  height.  In  making  plantings  of 
bulbs  for  lawn  and  garden  effects  careful  attention  should  be  given 
to  the  other  groups  showing  narcissi  for  different  locations,  and  the 
interesting  tulip  combinations. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  groups  of  bulbs  is  the  group  valuable  for 
naturalization  in  woodland  and  wild  garden  areas.  These  bulbs  must 
be  of  the  kind  that  will  continue  to  multiply  without  further  care  than 
is  ordinarily  given  to  such  areas  on  the  average  estate.  All  of  the  bulbs 
in  this  list  should,  after  being  properly  planted,  grow  in  succeeding 
years  into  clumps  through  the  increase  of  the  small  bulblets,  and  the 
mature  plants  should  be  almost  as  vigorous  as  during  the  first  year  or 
two  after  the  bulbs  were  planted.  In  other  words,  they  should  not 
show  a  tendency  to  run  out.  Occasionally,  unless  conditions  are  ideal, 
such  plants  as  the  trillium  and  some  of  the  lilies  will  continue  to 
grow  but  will  not  multiply.  This  is  a  freak  of  plant  life  which  those 
who  have  given  considerable  thought  to  experimenting  in  the  natural- 
ization of  plants  cannot  fully  explain.  Many  of  the  bulbs  in  this 
group  such  as  the  yellow  lily  leek,  lily-of-the-valley,  adder's  tongue, 
and  trillium,  desire  a  great  amount  of  shade.  The  other  bulbs  such  as 
lilies,  narcissi,  squills,  and  tulips  require  more  sunlight. 

It  is  well  to  know  the  adaptations  of  different  varieties  of  the  nar- 
cissus. The  writer  has  accordingly  referred  to  this  in  passing,  and  we 
should  bear  closely  in  mind  the  fact  that  the  poet's  narcissus,  with  its 
varieties,  is  adapted  to  the  heavy  lower  ground,  while  the  large  trumpet 
types  are  adapted  to  a  rich,  well-drained  loam.  The  proper  selection 
of  combinations  of  bulbs  for  flowering  effects,  either  simultaneous  flow- 
ering or  a  succession  of  bloom,  is  one  of  the  interesting  studies  in  bulb 
plantings.  So  many  extremely  interesting  effects  can  be  obtained 
with  a  proper  selection  and  planting,  and  so  many  uninteresting 


BULBS  269 

flowering  effects  can  be  avoided,  that  a  few  standard  types  of  bulb 
combinations  have  been  shown  under  this  discussion.  Bulbs  are 
divided  into  the  early-flowering  types,  most  of  which  are  single,  and  the 
late-flowering  types  among  which  are  the  Darwin  tulips,  most  of 
which  grow  twice  as  tall  as  the  early  flowering.  There  are  so  many 
varieties  of  tulips  and  such  a  confusion  of  nomenclature  that  to  lay 
down  definite  rules  and  to  frame  ironclad  lists  of  bulbs  would  be  futile. 
It  is  sufficient  to  suggest  that  bulbs  for  excellent  plantings  should  be 
selected  and  grouped  by  an  expert,  or  that  sources  of  expert  infor- 
mation should  be  consulted  in  order  to  insure  the  proper  effects.  So 
often,  for  example,  yellow  and  white  or  orange  and  yellow  tulips  are 
planted  for  a  combination  of  flower  effect,  when  in  reality  one  of  the 
bulbs  is  of  the  early-flowering  type  and  the  other  variety  is  of  the  late- 
flowering  type,  neither  of  which  will  be  in  bloom  during  the  blooming 
period  of  the  other.  To  avoid  mistakes  of  this  kind,  and  for  the  use 
of  the  amateur  who  has  no  ready  access  to  the  sources  of  information, 
nor  the  time  to  devote  the  necessary  study  to  this  question,  a  number 
of  bulb  combinations  have  been  given  which  will  serve  to  meet  the 
average  requirements.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  bulbs  planted  for  their 
individual  flowers  fall  far  short  of  providing  the  most  interesting  effect. 
They  should  be  planted  for  their  mass  effect  and  as  an  interesting  com- 
bination of  colour. 

Bulbs  may  be  planted  either  for  a  formal  or  for  an  informal  and  more 
natural  effect.  The  first  planting  requires  the  stiff  symmetrical  lines  of 
refined  lawn  and  garden  areas;  the  second  effect  requires  the  more 
informal,  flowing  lines,  either  of  the  refined  lawn  areas  or  of  the  in- 
formal garden  areas.  It  is  quite  a  matter  of  taste  which  of  these 
effects  should  be  desired.  Many  persons  desire  the  conventional,  un- 
interesting ribbon  boundary  bordering  the  edges  of  shrubbery,  while 
others  desire  the  more  natural,  scattered  mass  effect  which  gives  here 
and  there  a  spot  of  colour  and  a  certain  relief  to  the  bare  effect  of  the 
shrubbery  plantings  prior  to  the  time  of  breaking  their  buds,  and  also 
to  the  ground  underneath.  It  is  important  to  know  the  time  of 
flowering  for  various  types  of  bulbs  in  order  that  the  late-flowering 
types,  such  as  the  Darwin  tulips,  may  not  be  scattered  through  a  shrub 
planting  of  the  bridal  wreath  spirea,  or  the  early  honeysuckle,  where 
the  full  leaf  effect  will  obscure  the  flower  effect  of  the  bulbs. 

Not  every  variety  of  bulb  is  suitable  for  forcing  purposes.  A  few 
varieties  of  bujb§  are  extremely  suitable .  while  a  few  of  the  varieties 


270  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

of  the  crocus  and  of  the  Spanish  iris  can  be  forced  successfully  only 
under  the  most  favourable  conditions  of  heat  and  light.  Some  of  the 
early  tulips  are  preeminently  good  for  forcing  while  some  varieties  are 
not  adapted  to  this  method  of  growing  them.  Many  of  the  cottage 
tulips  and  nearly  all  the  Darwins  can  be  used  successfully.  All 
hyacinths,  some  more  than  others,  and  many  narcissi  are  satisfactory. 
But  before  trying  varieties  not  named  in  the  list  one  should  consult  a 
reliable  trade  catalogue.  For  early  forcing  particular  care  should  be 
used  to  select  large,  plump  bulbs. 

LIST  OF  BULBS 

A.  REFINED  LAWN  AND  GARDEN  AREAS.    This  group  contains  only 
the  standard  types  and  varieties  of  bulbs  from  which  to  select  material 
for  the  average  planting.     There  are  hundreds  of  varieties  of  bulbs 
which  may  be  used  with  more  or  less  success;  but  this  list  is  intended  to 
be  merely  a  safe  guide  to  the  beginner. 

Chionodoxa  luciliae  Narcissus  barri 

Glory-of-the-Snow  Short  Cup  or  Trumpet  Daffodil 

Crocus  (fall  blooming)  Narcissus  incomparabilis 

Crocus  Medium  Trumpet  Daffodil 

Crocus  (spring  blooming)  Narcissus  leedsi 

Crocus  White  Daffodil 

Galanthus  elwesi  Narcissus  poeticus 

Giant  Snowdrop  Poet's  Narcissus 

Hyacinthus  (in  variety)  Narcissus  Trumpet  major 

Hyacinth  Long  Trumpet  Daffodil 

Muscari  botryoides  Scilla  sibirica 

Grape  Hyacinth  Siberian  Squill 

Narcissus  (double)  Tulipa  (in  variety) 

Narcissus  Tulip 

B.  NATURALIZING   IN   WOODLAND   AND   WILD   GARDENS.     Bulbs 
valuable  for  naturalization  in  woodland  and  wild  garden  areas  must 
be  of  the  kind  which  will  continue  to  increase  without  further  care 
than  is  ordinarily  given  to  such  an  area.     All  of  the  material  in  this 
group,  except  the  gold-banded  lily,  may  be  expected,  after  being  prop- 
erly planted,  to  continue  with  the  succeeding  years  to  become  thicker 
in  growth  and  still  remain  nearly  as  vigorous  as  when  first  planted, 

Allium  moly  Convallaria  majalis 
Yellow  Lily  Leek  Lily-of-the-valley 

Camassia  esculenta  Eranthis  hyemalis 
Wild  Hyacinth  Winter  Aconite 


BULBS  271 

Erythronium  americanum  Narcissus  poeticus 

Adder's  tongue  Poet's  Narcissus 

Frittilaria  meleagris  Narcissus  leedsi  amabilis 

Guinea-hen  Flower  Short-cupped  White  Daffodil 

Leucojum  vernum  carpaticum  Narcissus  Trumpet  Major 

Snowflake  Long  Trumpet  Daffodil 

Lilium  auratum  Ornithogalum  umbellatum 

Gold-banded  Lily  Star  of  Bethlehem 

Lilium  canadense  Scilla  campanulata 

Wild  Yellow  Lily  Squill 

Lilium  candidum  Trillium  erectum 

Madonna  Lily  Wake  Robin 

Lilium  philadelphicum  Trillium  grandifiorum 

Wild  Red  Lily  Large-flowered  Wake  Robin 

Lilium  speciosum  Tulipa  clusiana 

Showy  Lily  Lady  Tulip 

Lilium  tigrinum  Tulipa  greigi 

Tiger  Lily  Early-flowering  Red  Tulip 

Tulipa  kaufmanniana 
Early  Tulip 

C.  NARCISSI  FOR  DIFFERENT  LOCATIONS.     In  moist,  well-drained 
loam  use  the  large  trumpet  types.     In  heavier,  damper,  lower  ground 
use  the  poeticus   and   double   gardenia-flowered   form.     In  warmer 
climates,  on  damp,  moist  soil,  use  the  double  daffodil.     In  rockeries 
use  the  hoop-petticoat,  cyclamen-flowered,  and  triandrus  sections. 

D.  TULIP  COMBINATIONS.    The  most  interesting  effect  can  be 
obtained  from  the  planting  of  tulips  when  study  and  thought  are  given 
to  the  colour  effects  of  the  flowers.     Many  interesting  plantings  of 
tulips  have  been  completely  spoiled  from  the  standpoint  of  the  land- 
scape effect  in  a  garden  and  on  a  lawn  because  sufficient  thought  has 
not  been  given  to  the  relationship  between  the  colours  of  the  flowers 
and  the  season  of  bloom.     It  sometimes  requires  a  complementary 
colour  or  a  contrasting  colour  to  make  the  most  interesting  flower 
effect.     There  are  many  tulip  combinations  which  may  be  selected, 
but  the  following  are  a  few  which  may  be  used  as  a  guide: 

a.     Single: 

(  Jeannette  (crimson  red,  edged  old  rose)    (  Kohinoor  (crimson  red,  purplish  bloom) 
I  Rose  precoce  (creamy  white)  •<  Rose  Aplati  (blush  white,  edged  salmon 

(          rose) 

(  Primrose  Queen  (primrose  edged  canary 
Jueen  of  the  Netherlands  (pale  rose)       •]          yellow) 
Tan  Berghem  (carmine  red)  (  Wouverman  (dark  purple) 


272  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

j  Goldfinch  (chrome  yellow)  (  Lady  Boreel  (snowy  white) 

}  Princess  Helena  (pure  white)  K  Joost   Van   Vondel    (cherry   red    flaked 

\  Chrysolora  (clear  golden  yellow)  '         white) 

\  Dusart  (vermilion  red) 

tf*  **   -ft  •''*/••  jjj\(  R°se  Aplati  (white  edged  salmon  rose) 

\  g?,¥enL">n(pnmrose yellow,  edged  red)    }  Jaune  A  lad  (sulphur      llow  flushed      le 

( White  Hawk  (pure  white)  )         rosA 

(  Primrose  Queen  (primrose  edged  canary 

yellow) 
(  Princess  Wilhelmina  (deep  pink) 

A  trifle  (five  to  six  days)  later  than  the  above  are: 

j  Golden  Horn  (primrose  yellow)  (  LeReve  (old  rose  flushed  buff) 

(  Rosa  Mundi  Huyckman  (rose  pink)         •<  White  Swan  (pure  white) 

( L'Interessante  (dark  violet) 

b.  Double:     Not  as  graceful  as  single.    Heavy  rains  quickly  bend 
over  or  break  the  stems  of  the  huge  blooms.     A  trifle  later  than 
singles : 

j  Lac  van  Haarlem  (rosy  violet)  (  LeMatador  (glowing  scarlet) 

\  Safrano  (pale  sulphur  yellow)  (  Schoonoord  (white  sport  from  Murillo) 

C  Sweetheart  (white,  slightly  tinged  pale   j  Boule  de  Niege  (pure  white) 
rose)  \  Couronne  d'Or  (deep  yellow) 

(  Don  Carlos  (glowing  crimson) 

(  Blue  Celeste  (violet  purple) 

j  Rose  d'Amour  (pale  flesh  rose)  \  Yellow  Rose  (yellow) 

\  Salvator  Rosa  (deep  rose,  flushed  white) 

c.  Cottage: 

(  Carnation  (white,  margined  rose)  (  Picotee  (white,  margined  rose) 

j  Solferino  (pale  yellow)  -j  Inglescombe  Pink  (rosy  pink) 

(  Fairy  Queen  (rosy  lilac)  (  Doris  (rosy  lilac) 

(  Moonlight  (canary  yellow) 

^  Twilight  (mauve) 

(  Bouton  d'Or  (deep  yellow) 

d.  Darwins: 

(  Chestnut  (dark  mahogany)  (  Franz  Hals  (reddish  heliotrope) 

•<  Clara  Butt  (rose)  •<  Princess  Juliana  (American  beauty) 

(  Europa  (light  American  beauty)  (  Dream  (pale  heliotrope) 

C  Yolande  (soft  rose) 

(  Gretchen  (pale  pink)  )  La  Tulipe  Noire  (purple  black) 

j  Clara  Butt  (rose)  j  Reverend  Ewbank  (lavender) 

(  Crepuscule  (lilac)  (.Europa  (bright  rose) 


BULBS  273 

E.  BEST  VARIETIES  FOR  FORCING.  The  following  bulbs  are  good 
varieties  for  forcing.  A  few  kinds  (see  Group  b)  will  flower  if  kept 
in  bowls  of  water  with  enough  pebbles  to  hold  them  upright. 


a.    Forcing  in  soiL 

Tulips — early  single: 
Due  Van  Tholl  (various  colours) 
Duchesse  de  Parma  (crimson  with  yellow 

margin) 

Chrysolora  (yellow) 
Cottage  Maid  (pink) 
Flamingo  (pink) 
Vermilion  Brilliant  (scarlet) 
Joost  van  Vondel  (striped,  red  and  white) 
Proserpine  (deep  rose  with  metallic  petals) 

Medium-flowering  tulips: 
Thomas  Moore  (orange) 
Yellow  Prince  (yellow) 
White  Swan  (white) 
Rose  Grisdelin  (pink) 
Pottebakker  (scarlet,  yellow,  and  white) 
Couleur  Cardinal  (dark  crimson) 

Double  tulips  for  forcing: 
Boule  de  Neige  (white) 
Murillo  (pink) 
Crown  of  Gold  (yellow) 
Imperator  Rubrorum  (scarlet) 

Cottage  Tulips: 
Bouton  d'Or  (chrome  yellow) 
Carnation  (white  margined  carmine) 
Elegans  alba  (creamy  white) 
Fairy  Queen  (rosy  lilac) 
Inglescombe  Pink  (soft  rosy  pink) 
La  Candeur  (silvery  white) 
Striped  Beauty  (silvery  rose) 
Vitellina  (primrose  to  creamy  white) 

Darwin  Tulips: 

For  late  February  or  early  March: 
Bartigon  (deep  red) 
Pride  of  Haarlem  (purple  rose) 
William  Copeland  (lavender) 
William  Pitt  (dark  red) 
Rev.  H.  Ewbank  (light  lavender) 

For  late  March  and  early  April: 
All  names  in  above 
Dream  (dark  lilac) 
Europe  (vivid  red) 
Massachusetts  (silvery  pink) 
White  Queen  (white,  flushed  pink) 
Harry  Veitch  (brown  red) 
Princess  Elizabeth  (deep  pink) 


Psyche  (pink) 

Sieraad  van  Flora  (vivid  rose) 
Farnecombe  Sanders  (fiery  scarlet) 
Mme.  Krelage  (dark  pink) 

For  late  April  or  early  May: 
Clara  Butt  (shell  pink) 
Baronne  de  la  Tonnaye  (bright  rose) 
Gretchen  (soft  pink) 
Loveliness  (bright  rose) 
Nora  Ware  (lilac) 

Hyacinths  (in  order  of  earliness): 
Garibaldi  (deep  crimson) 
Hein  Roozen  (white) 
Lady  Derby  (rose  pink) 
Yellow  Hammer  (creamy  yellow) 
Buff  Beauty  (pale  yellow  striped  with 

straw) 

Corregio  (white) 
Count  Andrassy  (lavender  blue) 
Enchantress  (porcelain  blue) 
General  de  Wet  (soft  light  pink) 
Pink  Perfection  (mauve  rose) 
La  Grandesse  (white) 
Oranjeboven  (pale  salmon-tinged  rose) 
King  of  the  Blues  (dark  blue) 
Etna  (dark  rose) 

Large  trumpet  Narcissi: 
Emperor 
Empress 
Golden  Spur 
Horsfieldi 
Mme.  de  Graaff 
Olympia 
Silver  Spur 
Victoria 
W.  P.  Milner 
William  Goldring 

Medium  trumpet  narcissi: 
Sir  Watkin 
Barri  conspicuous 
Poeticus  ornatus 
Sea  Gull 
White  Lady 

Double  narcissi: 
Van  Skn 
Orange  Phoenix 


274  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Paper  White  Narcissus  (all  varieties)  Galanthus 

Miscellaneous  Bulbs: 

Chionodoxa  Gladiolus  The  Bride 

Glory-of-the-snow  Sword  Mower 

Convallaria  majalis  Hyacinth  Dutch  and  Roman 

Lily-of-the-valley  Early  single  varieties 

Freesia  refracta  alba  Ixia 

Freesia  African  Corn  Lily 

b.     Forcing  in  water 

Crocus  Narcissus  horsfieldi 

Mammoth  Yellow  Crocus  Trumpet  Narcissus 

Hyacinth  Roman  Narcissus  polyanthus  totus  albus 

(large  bulbs)  Paper  White  Narcissus 

Narcissus  Golden  Spur  Narcissus  polyanthus^  Soleil  d'Or 

Trumpet  Narcissus  Yellow  Paper  White  Narcissus 

Sprekelia  formosissima 
Jacobaean  Lily 


CHAPTER  XXXVII 
FRAGRANT  PLANTS 

THE  group  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  perennials  whose  flowers  or  leaves 
are  fragrant  is  an  important  group  in  the  development  of  an  inter- 
esting variation  in  landscape  plantings,  especially  on  the  larger  places. 
There  are  certain  varieties  of  shrubs,  such  as  the  common  mock  orange, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  extremely  fragrant,  while  the  flowers  of  some  of 
the  other  varieties  have  no  odour  whatever.  This  is  a  peculiar 
condition  which  has  not  been  fully  explained,  but  one  which  makes  a 
marked  difference  in  the  effect  of  plantings  from  the  standpoint  of  the 
fragrance  of  their  flowers.  A  garden  possesses  greater  charm  if  fra- 
grance is  one  of  its  attributes.  In  older  times  many  plants  were 
grown  for  their  sweet  odours,  both  of  flowers  and  leaves.  This 
feature  has  not  been  given  its  due  importance  in  the  landscape  plant- 
ings of  to-day,  and  a  little  study  will  convince  one  that  a  wealth  of 
fragrance  can  be  easily  obtained  in  any  planting  of  trees,  shrubs,  and 
perennials,  by  the  proper  selection  of  a  few  types  of  plants.  The 
fragrant  honeysuckle  has  a  very  attractive  odour,  while  the  tartarian 
honeysuckle  has  flowers  with  no  fragrant  odour  whatever.  The 
horse-chestnut  has  flowers  with  little  or  no  odour,  while  the  false 
acacia  and  the  black  locust  fill  the  air  with  fragrance.  Violets,  trailing 
arbutus,  and  lilies-of-the-valley  add  a  certain  fragrance  to  the  garden, 
which  odour  is  entirely  lacking  in  many  other  varieties  of  perennials. 

LIST  OF  FRAGRANT  PLANTS 

A.  FRAGRANT  FLOWERS.  The  plants  in  this  group  are  valuable 
because  of  the  fragrance  of  their  flowers.  It  is  an  interesting  fact 
that  many  species  of  the  same  genus  are  not  equally  valuable  because 
of  the  flower  fragrance.  This  is  true  especially  with  the  mock  orange. 

a.     Shrubs: 

Azalea  arborescens  Azalea  canescens 

Smooth  Azalea  Fragrant  Mountain  Azalea 

275 


276 

Azalea  viscosa 

Swamp  Azalea 
Buddleia  veitchiana 

Summer  Lilac 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 
Clethra  alnifolia 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush 
Corylopsis  spicata 

Flowering  Hazel 
Daphne  cneorum 

Garland  Flower 


Itea  virginica 

Virginian  Willow 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  spinosa  alberti 

Large-fruited  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  xylosteum 

Fly  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Magnolia  conspicua 

Chinese  White  Magnolia 
Magnolia  glauca 

Swamp  Magnolia 
Osmanthus  aquifolium 

Fragrant  Olive 
Philadelphus  coronarius 

Common  Mock  Orange 
Philadelphus  zeyheri 

Hybrid  Mock  Orange 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Pyrus  angustifolia 

Narrow-leaved  Crab 
Pyrus  baccata 

Siberian  Flowering  Crab 
Pyrus  coronaria 

Wild  Crab 
Pyrus  floribunda 

Flowering  Crab 
Pyrus  ioensis  bechteli 

Bechtel's  Crab 
Pyrus  spectabilis  riversi 

Rivers'  Semi-double 

Chinese  Flowering  Crab 
Rhododendron  azaleoides 

Hybrid  Pinkster  Flower 
Ribes  aureum 

Flowering  Currant 
Ribes  gordonianum 

Flowering  Currant 
Rosa  (in  variety) 

Rose 


Rubus  deliciosus 

Rocky  Mountain  Flowering  Raspberry 
Rubus  odoratus 

Flowering  Raspberry 
Syringa  vulgaris 

Common  Lilac 
Viburnum  carlesi 

Korean  viburnum 


b.     Trees: 

Catalpa  speciosa 
Western  Catalpa 

Gleditsia  triacanthos 
Honey  Locust 


Paulownia  tomentosa 

Empress  Tree 
Robinia  pseudacacia 

Black  Locust 
Tilia  (in  variety) 
Linden 


c.    Perennials: 

Arabis  albida 

Rock  Cress 
Artemisia  lactiflora 

Southernwood 
Asterula  odorata 

Sweet  Woodruff 
Cheiranthus  cheiri  (tender) 

Wallflower 


Clematis  davidiana^ 

David's  Clematis 
Clematis  recta 

Herbaceous  Clematis 
Convallaria  majalis 

Lily-of-the-valley 
Dianthus  plumarius 

Scotch  Pink 


FRAGRANT  PLANTS  277 

Dictamnus  fraxinella  Malva  moschata 

Gas  Plant  Musk  Mallow 

Epigaea  re-pens  Monarda  (in  variety) 

Trailing  Arbutus  Bergamot 

Funkia  (in  variety)  Oenothera  (in  variety) 

Plantain  Lily  Evening  Primrose 

Hemerocallis  aurantiaca  Paeonia  albiflora  sinensis 

Fragrant  Orange  Lily  Chinese  Peony 

Hemerocallis  flava  Phlox  paniculata 

Lemon  Lily  Garden  Phlox 

Hemerocallis  thunbergi  Trifolium  re-pens 

Lemon  Lily  White  Clover 

Hesperis  matronalis  Faleriana  (in  variety) 

Sweet  Rocket  Valerian 

Iris  germanica  Viola  odorata  semperflorens 

German  Iris  Violet 

jZavandula  vera  '        Yucca  filamentosa 

Lavender  Adam's  Needle 

B.  FRAGRANT  LEAVES.  This  is  a  small  but  very  interesting 
group  of  plants.  Most  produce  an  attractive  odour  from  the  leaves 
either  growing  on  the  plant,  or  dried  and  crushed. 

a.  Trees  and  shrubs: 

Benzoin  aestivale  Rhus  canadensis 

Spice  Bush  Fragrant  Sumac 

Buxus  Rosa  rubiginosa 

Boxwood  Sweet  Brier 

Comptonia  asplenifolia  Rosa  rubiginosa  hybrida 

(t   Sweet  Fern  Lord  Penzance  Hybrid  Brier 

b.  Perennials: 

Anthemis  Lavandula  vera 

Chamomile  Lavender 

Artemisia  abrotanum  Monarda  didyma 

I    Southernwood  Bergamot 

Artemisia  dracunculus^  Rosmarinus  officinalis 

Tarragon  Rosemary 

Asperula  odorata  Salvia  officinalis 

Sweet  Woodruff  Mammoth  Sage 

Cedronella  Sanguisorba  minor 

Balm  of  Gilead  Burnet 

Dictamnus  fraxinella  Santolina  ckamatcyparissus 

Gas  Plant  Lavender  Cotton 

Tanacetum 
Tansy 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII 
POISONOUS  PLANTS 

THE  increase  in  the  number  of  country  homes  that  are  being  built 
on  "new  land"  makes  important  an  understanding  of  the  common 
poisonous  plants  which  are  likely  to  occur  and  which  should  not  be 
collected  for  use  in  planting,  but  should  rather  be  removed  if  they  are 
so  situated  as  to  prove  dangerous  to  people,  or  where  they  may  be 
browsed  by  animals.  A  few  of  these  plants  are  sold  by  growers  and  if 
planted  they  should  be  located  after  some  forethought. 

Of  those  in  the  first  list  there  are  several  that  are  really  desirable 
because  of  their  flowers;  but  all  in  the  second  list  can  easily  be  dis- 
pensed with.  Similar  to  the  poison  ivy  or  poison  oak  is  the  woodbine 
or  Virginia  creeper;  but  the  latter  has  five  leaflets  on  a  stem  while  the 
objectionable  vine  has  three.  There  are  several  desirable  species  of 
sumac  in  addition  to  the  poisonous  kind.  The  species  to  be  avoided 
can  be  recognized  by  its  growing  in  swamps,  and  it  is  rarely  found  in 
ground  at  all  well  drained.  It  and  the  poison  ivy  alike  are  distin- 
guished by  their  white  fruits.  The  first  plant  in  List  B,  however, 
primula  obconica,  the  hairy  primrose,  popular  as  a  house  plant,  need 
not  be  discarded  if  any  person  who  is  susceptible  to  contact  poisons 
will  rinse  his  hands  in  alcohol  and  then  wash  with  soap  and  water 
after  handling  this  plant. 

Where  animals  may  browse,  the  planter  should  not  place  any 
form  of  the  kalmia  or  laurel.  This  is  the  only  desirable  plant  in  List  A 
of  considerable  range  that  grazing  animals  are  apt  to  feed  upon.  In 
the  west,  particularly  Wyoming,  many  sheep  are  killed  by  eating  the 
woody  aster  or  the  death  camas.  The  darnel  poisons  men,  dogs, 
horses,  and  sheep,  but  does  not  harm  cows,  pigs,  and  ducks. 

Of  those  in  the  first  group,  the  mushroom  is  the  only  one  that  is 
likely  to  be  eaten  by  a  human  being.  The  more  dangerous  species  of 
it  is  the  amanita  phalloides  or  "deadly  amanita,"  for  it  is  widely 
distributed  in  woods  and  meadows  and  for  the  phallin  that  it  con- 

278 


POISONOUS  PLANTS  279 

tains  no  antidote  is  known.  It  is  all  the  more  to  be  guarded  against 
in  its  pure  white  form,  resembling  the  lepiotcz  or  edible  mushrooms, 
but,  as  a  rule,  the  upper  surface  of  the  cap  is  grayish,  brownish  or 
greenish.  (The  different  edible  mushrooms  additional  to  the  white 
variety  as  referred  to  above  have  caps  that  are  slaty  gray,  reddish 
brown,  or  brownish  yellow.) 

In  general,  it  might  be  remarked  that  there  is  risk  in  taking  into  the 
system  any  part  of  a  plant  the  properties  of  which  are  not  known. 
The  leaves  of  the  wild  black  cherry,  for  example,  are  quite  poisonous, 
especially  when  dried,  and  the  seeds  of  the  Jamestown  weed  are  more 
deadly  than  the  rest  of  the  plant;  but  the  physician  may  make  proper 
use  of  belladonna,  strychnine,  and  aconite. 


LIST  OF  POISONOUS  PLANTS 

Poisonous  plants  may  be  divided  into  two  groups :  A.  Plants  which 
if  taken  internally  either  cause  irritation  or  poison  the  blood.  B. 
Skin  irritants.  The  majority  of  the  plants  in  the  first  group  are  more 
harmful  to  farm  animals  than  to  human  beings.  In  the  second 
group  the  reverse  is  true. 


A.    INTERNALLY  POISONOUS: 

Aconitum  napellus  Helleborus  niger 

Monkshood  Christmas  Rose 

Amanita  muscaria  Kalmia  angustifolia 

Mushroom  Sheep  Laurel 

Amanita  phalloides  Kalmia  latifolia 

Mushroom  Mountain  Laurel 

Arisaema  triphyllum  Lolium  temulentum 

Jack-in-the-pulpit  Darnel 

Atropa  belladonna  Oxytropus  lambertini 

Deadly  Night-shade  Slender  Loco-weed 

Cicuta  maculata  Passiflora  incarnata 

Cowbane  Passion  Flower 

Conium  maculatum  Prunus  serotina  (leaves) 

Poison  Hemlock  Wild  Black  Cherry 

Datura  stramonium  Vcratrum  viride 

Jamestown  Weed  Green  Hellebore 

Delphinium  gtyi  Xylorrhiza  parryi 

Larkspur  Woody  Aster 
Zygadenus  intermedius 
Death  Camas 


280 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


B.  SKIN  IRRITANTS: 

;V 

Primula  obconica  Rhus  toxicodendron 

Hairy  Primula  Poison  Oak 

Rhus  radicans  Rhus  vernix 

Poison  Ivy  Poison  Sumac 

Stipa  spartea  (skin  irritant  for  animals  only) 
Porcupine  Grass 

C.  CAUSING  HAY  FEVER.     East  of  the    looth   meridian   in  the 
United  States  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  cases  of  hay  fever  are  caused  by 
the  common  ragweed  (Ambrosia  elatior)  while  in  the  Rocky  Mountain 
and  Pacific  states  the  sage  brush  (Artemisia)  replaces  the  ragweed  as 
the  most  common  hay  fever  weed.     The  so-called  "rose  fever"  from 
which  many  people  suffer  each  year  is  not  caused  by  roses  at  all 
but  by  pollen  from  several  different  grasses.     There  are  a  number  of 
commonly  planted  ornamental  plants  which  possess  hay-fever  produc- 
ing characteristics,  as  follows  : 

1.  The  flowers  must  be  wind  pollinated. 

2.  The  flowers  must  be  very  numerous. 

3.  The   flowers   are  generally  unscented   and   not  conspicuously 
coloured. 

Some  plants,  like  the  goldenrods  (Solidagd),  when  used  in  large 
quantities  in  a  room  may  prove  irritant,  but  the  pollen  is  not  wind 
borne  and  thus  it  is  not  a  true  hay-fever  plant.  Dandelions  have 
been  known  to  cause  irritation  when  children  press  the  flowers  too 
closely  to  their  nostrils;  but  the  dandelion  is  not  a  true  hay-fever  plant. 
The  list  of  plants  given  below  has  been  divided  into  two  parts:  (a) 
those  plants  which  are  active  hay-fever  producers,  and  (b)  those  which 
are  mild.  None  of  these  plants  should  be  used  about  hospitals,  nor 
where  hay-fever  sufferers  are  likely  to  come  in  contact  with  them. 


a.  Active: 


Artemisia  frigida 

Wormwood  Sage 
Aster  ericoides 

White  Heath  Aster 
Aster  novae-angliae 

Hardy  Garden  Aster 
Carya  ovata 

Hickory 
Centaurea  cyanus 

Old-fashioned  Cornflower 


Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum 

Ox-eye  Daisy 
Dianthus  chinensis 

Chinese  Pink 
Miscanthus  compactus 

Plume  Grass 
Eupatorium  sessifolium 

Upland  Grass 
Helianthus  angustifolius 

Hardy  Sun-flower 


POISONOUS  PLANTS 


281 


Ipomoea  purpurea 

Common  Morning  Glory 
Iva  ciliata 

Marsh  Elder 
Juglans  nigra 

Black  Walnut 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Poa  annua 

Annual  Meadow  Grass 


Populus  deltoid.es 

Southern  Cottonwood 
Quercus  nigra 

Water  Oak 
Solidago  canadensis 

Goldenrod 
Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Fernonia  noveboracencis 

Ironweed 


b.     Mild: 


Acer  rubrum 

Red  Maple 
Acer  rubrum  drummondi 

Drummond's  Maple 


Salix  nigra 
Black  Willow 


Lonicera  flava 

Yellow  Honeysuckle 
Rhus  typhina 

Staghorn  Sumac 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS  SUBJECT  TO  DISEASE 
AND  INSECT  PESTS 

THE  purpose  of  the  list  of  plants  given  below  is  not  to  discourage  any 
prospective  planter,  even  though  the  list  is  a  formidable  one,  nor  to 
catalogue  all  the  ornamental  plants  which  may  be  affected  by  insects 
or  disease.  It  should  be  remembered  that  ornamental  plants,  like 
animals,  are  much  less  subject  to  disease,  and  less  likely  to  be  harmed 
also  when  in  good  condition.  Thus  the  average  person  who  grows 
ornamental  plants  will,  if  he  keeps  them  from  being  damaged  by 
mechanical  factors  such  as  wounds,  lack  of  food  and  water,  poor  soil 
aeration,  and  so  on,  not  need  to  worry  very  much  as  to  whether  they  will 
succumb  easily  to  disease  or  insect  attacks. 

The  true  diseases  of  plants  are  either  physiological,  such  as  tip  burn, 
due  to  over-transpiration  of  water  during  a  hot  wind,  or  parasitic. 
The  parasitic  diseases  either  kill  by  the  secretion  of  toxins  and  enzymes 
which  destroy  plant  tissues,  or  these  toxins  and  enzymes  cause  ex- 
cessive tissue  growth  or  diversion  of  food  substances  of  the  plant  to  the 
use  of  the  parasite.  When  the  plant  tissue  is  killed  a  rot,  blight,  or  leaf 
spot  appears  and  when  the  second  effect  takes  place  the  result  is  a  gall, 
leaf  curl,  rust,  or  smut.  The  first  effect,  which  results  in  the  immediate 
death  of  the  plant  tissue,  is  of  course  the  most  harmful.  Anthracnose 
is  a  disease  caused  by  one  definite  sort  of  fungus  or  parasite. 

While  the  diseases  of  plants  are  not  something  new,  since  the  his- 
torical writings  of  the  ancients  mentioned  rusts,  cankers,  and  smuts, 
the  study  of  how  to  combat  them  is  not  only  a  new  but  an  everchanging 
subject.  Accordingly,  the  reader  is  urged  to  consult  the  latest  bul- 
letins of  his  State  Experiment  Station  or  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture  before  embarking  very  far  upon  a  programme  of  spraying  or 
of  otherwise  combating  these  diseases. 

Not  all  insects  which  live  on  or  about  plants  are  harmful.  Thus 
the  honey  bees,  the  "lady-bugs,"  and  many  others  are  beneficial  since 
they  either  pollenate  the  flowers  or  eat  other  harmful  insects.  The 

282 


ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS  283 

types  of  injurious  insects  are  as  follows :  plant  lice,  scales,  borers,  fruit- 
eating  insects,  root-feeding  insects,  and  leaf  or  bud-feeding  insects. 
The  leaf  or  bud-feeding  insects  are  the  most  harmful  to  the  appearance 
of  ornamental  plants,  though  borers  and  scales  do  a  vast  amount  of 
damage.  Plant  lice  also,  during  some  seasons  of  the  year,  spoil  the 
appearance  of  some  ornamental  plants  as  well  as  do  damage. 

Much  valuable  study  and  thought  have  been  given  to  the  subject 
of  eradication  of  insect  pests  and  the  information  available  on  this 
subject  is  very  complete.  The  spray  calendars  published  by  the 
State  Experiment  Stations  should  be  consulted  for  details  of  how  to 
keep  ornamental  plants  clean  and  thrifty. 

LIST  OF  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS  SUBJECT  TO  DISEASE  AND 

INSECT  PESTS 

Not  all  trees  are  equally  seriously  affected  by  insect  pests  and  in  the 
list  below  where  a  long  list  of  insects  and  diseases  are  given  after  a  plant 
name  it  does  not  signify  that  all  those  insects  and  diseases  commonly 
occur,  but  merely  that  they  are  known  to  occur  on  one  or  more  species 
of  the  genus.  The  list  is  given  merely  as  a  guide  showing  along  what 
lines  to  look  for  further  information,  and  it  also  indicates  the  sort  of 
treatment  required  as  outlined  in  the  chapter  on  Maintenance,  under 
the  spraying  discussion  (See  Page  75). 

Considerable  study  throughout  New  York  and  Ohio  in  regard 
to  the  immunity  of  trees  from  insect  injury  points  to  the  following  con- 
clusions: The  arborvitae,  tree  of  heaven,  and  the  ginkgo  are  practi- 
cally immune  from  injurious  insects.  The  American  and  Oriental 
planes,  the  red  and  scarlet  oaks,  and  the  tulip  tree  and  junipers  are 
occasionally  attacked.  The  red,  Norway,  sugar,  and  sycamore  maples, 
the  white  and  bur  oaks,  the  honey  locust,  catalpa,  the  birches,  the 
spruces,  and  the  white  pine  have  each  one  serious  insect  pest.  Among 
the  trees  very  likely  to  be  attacked  by  insects  are  the  European  and 
American  lindens,  the  American  and  the  water  or  red  elms,  the  soft 
maple,  the  horse-chestnut  and  buckeyes,  and  the  hackberry.  The 
European  and  Scotch  elms  and  the  willows  are  very  seriously  injured 
by  insects,  while  the  yellow  locusts  and  poplars  and  cottonwoods  are  so 
seriously  injured  as  to  make  it  doubtful  whether  they  should  ever  be 
used  in  ornamental  planting. 

In  the  following  alphabetical  list  of  plants  all  the  defoliating  larval 
forms  of  insects  are  classed  as  caterpillars  for  the  sake  of  brevity,  and 


284  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

because  they  are  all  treated  in  the  same  way  when  spraying  is  re- 
sorted to;  namely,  by  a  poison  or  a  contact  insecticide. 

Alder  (powdery  mildew,  borers,  leaf  roller,  caterpillars,  maple  scale). 

Apple  (canker,  aphids,  caterpillars,  scales,  and  bark  louse). 

Arborvitae  (bagworm). 

Ash  (trunk  rot,  canker,  leaf  spot,  borer,  caterpillars,  and  scales). 

Aster  (wilt  and  blister  beetle). 

Azalea  (leaf  spot  and  caterpillar). 

Barberry  (rust,  plant  louse,  and  caterpillar). 

Bay  berry  (caterpillar). 

Beech  (leaf  diseases,  anthracnose,  mildew  on  leaves,  maple  scale,  and  caterpillars). 

Birch  (anthracnose,  heart  rot,  canker,  borer,  and  caterpillars). 

Bitter-sweet,  (evonymus  scale). 

Box  Elder  (canker,  scales,  and  caterpillars). 

Boston  Ivy  (caterpillars). 

Buckeye  (scales,  bark  louse,  and  caterpillars). 

Catalpa  (leaf  blight,  powdery  mildew,  and  caterpillars). 

Cherry  (black  knot,  scales,  aphis,  leaf  spot,  mildew,  and  caterpillars). 

Chestnut  (anthracnose,  bark  disease,  weevil,  and  caterpillars). 

Chrysanthemum  (leaf  spot). 

Columbine  (borers). 

Daphne  (magnolia  scale). 

Dogwood  (San  Jose  scale,  oyster  shell  scale,  dogwood  scale,  and  bark  louse). 

Elm  (leaf  diseases,  leaf  beetle,  canker,  scale,  leaf  gall,  and  caterpillars). 

Englemann's  spruce  (red  spider). 

English  Ivy  (leaf  blight). 

Evonymus  (evonymus  scale,  and  cottony  maple  scale). 

Fir  (saw  fly,  timber  beetle,  borer,  and  caterpillars). 

Hackberry  (scale  and  caterpillars). 

Hazel  (caterpillars). 

Hickory  (leaf  spot,  borers,  shuck  worm,  tussock  moth  caterpillar,  bark  beetle,  and 

canker  worm). 

Hollyhock  (anthracnose  and  rust). 
Hornbeam  (caterpillars). 

Horse-chestnut  (leaf  blight,  rust,  tussock  moth,  bag  worm,  scales,  and  bark  lice). 
Hydrangea  (leaf  blight  and  rust). 
Iris  (bulb  spot,  root  rot,  and  leaf  blight). 
Juniper  (cedar  rust,  red  spider,  and  caterpillars). 
Larch  (canker,  saw  fly,  and  tussock  moth). 

Lilac  (powdery  mildew,  San  Jose  scale,  bark  lice,  and  caterpillars). 
Linden  (borers,  leaf  beetle,  caterpillars,  scale,  and  red  spider). 
Locust  (heart  rot,  borers,  leaf  beetle,  maple  scale,  and  caterpillars). 
Magnolia  (magnolia  scale). 

Maple  (anthracnose,  tip  burn,  sun  scald,  borers,  caterpillars,  scale,  and  twig  pruner). 
Mulberry  (bacterial  disease,  cottony  maple  scale). 


ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS  285 

Narcissus  (aphids  and  eel  worms). 

Oak  (anthracnose,  caterpillars,  powdery  mildew,  scale,  leaf  beetle,  and  twig  primer). 

Osage  Orange  (scale,  bark  louse,  and  caterpillar). 

Peach  (scales,  caterpillars,  and  borers). 

Peony  (stem  rot  and  leaf  spot). 

Phlox  (leaf  spot  fungus  and  powdery  mildew). 

Pine  (rust,  leaf  spot,  leaf  scale,  bark  louse,  saw  fly,  and  weevil). 

Poplar  (anthracnose,  rust,  leaf  beetle,  scales,  bark  louse,  borers,  and  caterpillars.) 

Privet  (anthracnose,  twig  blight,  and  webworm). 

Quince  (anthracnose,  black  rot,  and  San  Jose  scale). 

Red-bud  (caterpillars). 

Rhododendron  (lace-wing  fly  and  borers). 

Rose  (anthracnose,  mildew,  crown  gall,  nematodes,  slugs,  scales,  and  thrips). 

Shad-bush  (red  spider). 

Snapdragon  (anthracnose,  stem  rot,  and  wilt). 

Snowball  Bush  viburnum  (aphids). 

Solomon's  Seal  (leaf  fungus). 

Sour  Gum  (caterpillars). 

Spice  Bush  (scale  and  caterpillars). 

Spruce  (leaf  spot,  red  spider,  bug  worm,  caterpillars,  and  weevil). 

Sumac  (canker,  scale,  and  caterpillars). 

Sweet  Gum  (bagworm  and  other  caterpillars). 

Sycamore  (anthracnose,  powdery  mildew,  leaf  folders,  caterpillars,  and  scales). 

Thorn  (caterpillars,  scales,  plant  lice,  aphids,  and  leaf  beetle). 

Tree  of  Heaven  (rose  scale). 

Tulip  Tree  (scale  and  caterpillars). 

Verbena  (mildew). 

Veronica  (leaf  diseases). 

Viburnum  (see  Snowball  Bush). 

Violet  (nematodes  and  leaf  spot). 

Virginia  Creeper  (leaf  spot,  caterpillars,  and  scales). 

Walnut  (anthracnose,  mildew,  canker  worms,  caterpillars,  and  scales). 

Willow  (caterpillars,  leaf  beetles,  borers,  and  bark  louse). 

Wisteria  (leaf  beetle). 

Witch  Hazel  (caterpillars). 

Yucca  (caterpillars  and  grubs.) 


CHAPTER  XL 

PLANTS   DIFFICULT  TO  TRANSPLANT  AND  THOSE 

ADAPTED  FOR  TRANSPLANTING  AT  SPECIFIC 

SEASONS  OF  THE  YEAR 

THE  fact  is  well  appreciated  that  of  all  our  great  range  of  material 
used  in  landscape  plantings  there  are  a  certain  number  of  these  species 
and  varieties  which  are  better  adapted  to  being  transplanted  at  some 
specific  season,  either  during  the  spring  or  during  the  fall.  It  is  gener- 
ally safe  to  assume  that  plants  such  as  the  poplars,  willows,  and  the  rose 
of  Sharon,  the  wood  of  which  is  late  in  ripening,  should  preferably  be 
transplanted  in  the  spring.  If  these  types  are  transplanted  in  the  fall, 
they  are,  during  a  normal  severe  winter,  subjected  to  a  considerable 
winter-killing,  and  must  be  severely  cut  back  in  the  early  spring; 
whereas,  if  planted  in  the  spring  they  almost  invariably  continue  co 
grow  and  require  little  or  no  cutting  back. 

The  group  of  perennials  which  should  not  be  transplanted  in  the 
spring  consists  mostly  of  those  plants  which  begin  their  growth  at 
the  first  sign  of  spring,  and  before  the  ground  is  really  in  fit  condi- 
tion to  "work."  These  plants,  by  the  time  the  ground  is  warm  and 
dry  enough  to  permit  transplanting  in  friable  soil,  have  developed 
so  much  growth  of  roots  or  of  both  roots  and  top,  that  unless  they  can 
be  immediately  moved  without  any  period  of  delay  from  their  existing 
location  to  a  new  location  they  should  by  all  means  be  transplanted 
during  the  fall.  If  such  plants  are  transplanted  in  the  spring  the  usual 
result  is  a  check  to  growth  and  exceptionally  weak  development  of 
flowers  and  of  foliage  during  that  season.  The  fall  transplanting  of 
perennials  ought  to  be  done,  especially  with  these  early  spring-flowering 
types,  during  September  rather  than  during  the  latter  part  of  October 
and  November,  when  the  ground  is  cold  and  growth  is  completely 
stopped.  Transplanting  earlier  in  the  fall  enables  the  plants  to  start 
some  root  growth  and  thus  to  establish  themselves  to  better  withstand 
the  winter  conditions,  especially  in  the  soils  containing  more  or  less 
clay.  Especially  should  the  peony,  for  any  degree  of  success,  be  trans- 

286 


TRANSPLANTING  287 

planted  in  the  fall.  The  iris  is  peculiar  and  can  be  successfully  trans- 
planted at  any  time  when  the  ground  is  not  frozen.  The  best  time  is 
believed  to  be  immediately  after  flowering. 

Plants  which  are  not  vigorous  in  their  habit  of  root  growth  and  which 
are  very  susceptible  to  abnormal  conditions  of  freezing  and  thawing, 
or  to  excessive  moisture  in  the  soil  during  the  winter  months,  should 
not  be  transplanted  in  the  autumn.  The  most  important  illustra- 
tions of  this  type  of  plants  are  the  beech,  the  flowering  dogwood,  and 
some  of  the  less  hardy  types  of  evergreens,  such  as  the  arborvitae  and 
the  pea-fruited  cypress.  Many  good  plantsmen  are  of  the  opinion  that 
rhododendrons  and  azaleas  should  be  planted  during  the  spring  months. 
As  is  the  case  with  the  refined  types  of  evergreens,  there  is  usually  less 
loss  from  spring  planting  of  this  material  than  from  fall  planting. 
The  question  of  period  of  transplanting  in  connection  with  rhododen- 
drons and  with  evergreens  has  been  discussed  under  the  chapter  on 
Planting  and  Transplanting  (Page  49). 

While  it  is  desirable  in  the  transplanting  of  evergreens  and  of 
rhododendrons  in  particular  to  move  them  at  a  time  when  they  are 
just  ready  to  begin  growth,  in  order  to  prevent  them  from  standing  in  a 
"cold  soil,"  it  is,  on  the  other  hand,  necessary  to  transplant  such 
trees  as  the  beech  and  the  birch  when  they  are  absolutely  dormant. 
If  they  have  shown  the  least  signs  of  growth  through  the  swelling  of  the 
buds,  the  operation  of  transplanting  becomes  more  difficult,  and  yet  to 
transplant  such  material  in  the  fall  and  to  permit  it  to  stand  through 
the  winter,  especially  in  a  heavy  soil,  subjects  it  to  the  possibility  of 
considerable  loss.  There  is  a  well-defined  group  of  perennials,  typical 
of  which  are  the  chrysanthemum  and  the  Japanese  anemone,  which 
can  seldom  be  transplanted  with  any  success  during  the  fall  season. 
The  reason  for  this  is  that  the  plant  produces  flowers  at  such  a  late 
period  in  the  growing  season  that  further  root  action  necessary  to 
establish  the  plant  in  a  new  location  and  successfully  carry  it  through 
the  winter  is  not  encouraged. 

Group  C  includes  plants  divided  into  two  sub-groups,  a  those 
which  transplant  with  difficulty  and  should  rarely  if  ever  be  trans- 
planted, but  grown  in  their  permanent  location  from  seed,  cuttings, 
or  very  small  seedlings,  and  b  those  which  after  being  transplanted 
recover  very  slowly.  All  of  the  plants  in  the  first  group  are  the  ex- 
tremely slow-growing  types,  such  as  the  walnut,  the  butternut,  the 
ironwood,  and  the  sweet  fern.  Those  typical  of  the  second  groups  are 


288  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

the  Japanese  snowball,  the  rose  of  Sharon,  boxwood,  nursery-grown 
beech  trees,  and  sweet  gum.  The  author  does  not  intend  to  convey  the 
impression  that  any  of  the  plants  in  either  of  these  groups,  especially 
the  first  group,  cannot  be  transplanted  with  success  by  those  who  are 
in  a  position  to  know  the  plants  intimately,  and  to  take  thorough  pre- 
cautions against  any  possible  injury  through  transplanting.  For  the 
person  who  is  not  an  expert  plantsman  and  who  does  not  thoroughly 
understand  all  of  the  conditions  necessary  for  the  successful  trans- 
planting of  the  extremely  slow-growing  types  of  trees  and  shrubs  the 
plants  in  the  first  group  should  be  avoided,  and  extreme  care  should  be 
given  to  the  work  of  transplanting  any  of  the  trees  or  shrubs  included 
in  the  second  group. 

Most  of  the  plants  included  in  the  second  group  should  be  trans- 
planted for  best  success  during  the  spring  months.  Their  habit 
of  slow  growth  and  inability  to  adapt  themselves  readily  to  new  con- 
ditions of  soil  make  them  very  liable  to  injury  on  account  of  drowning- 
out  because  of  excessive  depth  of  planting,  or  injury  from  winter 
conditions.  All  of  these  types  are  apt  to  be  extremely  unsatisfactory 
during  the  first  two  years  after  transplanting,  but  when  once  they  have 
recovered  from  the  shock  of  transplanting  they  will  grow  wonderfully 
well. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  ADAPTED  FOR  TRANSPLANTING  AT 
SPECIFIC  SEASONS  OF  THE  YEAR 

Under  excellent  care,  good  results  may  be  attained  by  transplanting 
all  plants  during  the  fall  planting  season,  or  during  the  spring  planting 
season.  For  the  best  results,  however,  it  is  advisable  to  plant  some 
types  during  the  fall  planting  season  and  other  types  during  the  spring 
planting  season.  The  two  groups  A  and  B  contain  plants  specifi- 
cally adapted  for  planting;  some  in  the  fall  and  some  in  the  spring. 
Group  C  contains  a  list  of  plants  which  transplant  with  extreme 
difficulty,  and  can  be  transplanted  with  better  success  during  the  spring 
months  with  the  exception  of  the  trailing  arbutus  listed  in  Group  C-a. 
This  plant  is  extremely  difficult  to  transplant  with  any  success  at  any 
season.  Those  who  have  had  considerable  experience  with  the  trailing 
arbutus  are  of  the  general  opinion  that  if  it  is  taken  up  during  the 
month  of  July  and  moved  with  a  goodly  amount  of  soil  about  its  roots 
together  with  some  additional  soil  in  which  to  plant  it  in  the  new  loca- 
tion, some  success  may  be  assured.  Special  care  should  be  taken 


TRANSPLANTING  289 

immediately  after  this  plant  is  transplanted  to  give  it  a  mulch  of  some 
light  texture  such  as  partially  decayed  oak  leaves  in  order  to  provide 
a  satisfactory  fertilizer  and  to  prevent  excessive  evaporation  from  the 
soil  which  surrounds  the  roots. 

A.  PLANTS  WHICH  SHOULD  BE  TRANSPLANTED  IN  AUTUMN: 

Anemone  pennsylvanica  Lilium  (not  stem-rooting) 

Canadian  Windflower  Lily 

Aquilegia  (in  variety)  Paeonia 

Columbine  Peony 

Dicentra  spectabilis  Phlox  divaricata 

Bleeding-heart  Wild  Sweet  William 

Doronicum  plantagineum  excelsum  Primula  (in  variety) 

Leopard's  Bane  Primrose 

Hepatica  triloba  Sanguinaria  canadensis 

Hepatica  Bloodroot 

Iris  (in  variety)  Trillium  (in  variety) 

Iris  (See  Page  90)  Wake  Robin 
Trollius  europaeus 
Globe-flower 

B.  PLANTS  WHICH  SHOULD  BE  TRANSPLANTED  IN  SPRING: 

Acer  rubrum  Ericaceous  plants  of 

Red  Maple  all  sorts 

Acer  saccharinum  Fagus  sylvatica 

Silver  Maple  European  Beech 

Anemone  japonica  Hedera  helix 

Japanese  Windflower  English  Ivy 

Azalea  (in  variety)  Hibiscus  syriacus 

Azalea  Rose  of  Sharon 

Benzoin  aestivale  Kalmia  (in  variety* 

Spice  Bush  Laurel 

Betula  (in  variety)  Kerria  japonica 

Birch  Globe-flower 

Buddleia  veitchiana  Liquidambar  styraciflua 

Summer  Lilac  Sweet  Gum 

Calycanthus  floridus  Liriodendron  tulipifera 

Strawberry  Shrub  Tulip  Tree 

Chrysanthemum  (in  variety)  Magnolia  (in  variety) 

Chrysanthemum  Magnolia 

Colutea  arborescens  Morus  rubra 

Bladder  Senna  Red  Mulberry 

Cornus  fiorida  Pieris  (in  variety) 

Flowering  Dogwood  Fetterbush 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis  Populus  (in  variety) 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster  Poplar 

Crataegus  (in  variety)  Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

Thorn  Rhododendron 


290  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Rhus  canadensis  Taxus  (in  variety) 

Fragrant  Sumac  Yew 

Rosa  rugosa  Ulmus  americana 

Japanese  Rose  American  Elm 

Stephanandra  flexuosa  Viburnum  plicatum 

Stephanandra  Japanese  Snowball 

Tamarix  gallica  Vitex  agnus-castus 

French  Tamarisk  Chaste  Tree 

C.    PLANTS  WHICH  ARE  TRANSPLANTED  WITH  LITTLE  SUCCESS  : 

a.  Plants  to  be  rarely  if  ever  transplanted.     Some  plants,  especially  if 
collected  from  the  wild,  seldom  survive  the  shock  of  transplanting. 
Some  plants,  like  the  beeches,  must  be  entirely  dormant  if  they  are  to 
be  moved  successfully.     The  letter  (c)  after  a  name  indicates  that 
collected  plants  move  with  little  or  no  success;  but  nursery-grown 
plants  move  with  fair  success. 

Anemone  nemorosa  Juglans  nigra 

White  Wood  Anemone  Black  Walnut 

Betula  (in  variety)  (c)  Juniperus  sabina  (c) 

Birch  Savin  Jumper 

Carpinus  caroliniana  Larix  laricina 

American  Hornbeam  Tamarack 

Comptonia  asplenifolia  (c)  Myrica  carolinensis  (c) 

Sweet  Fern  Bayberry 

Epigaea  repens  Nyssa  sylvatica 

Trailing  Arbutus  Tupelo 

Fagus  americana  (c)  Ostrya  virginiana 

American  Beech  Hop  Hornbeam 

Carya  (in  variety)  Taxus  canadensis  (c) 

Hickory  Ground  Yew 

Juglans  cinerea  Tsuga  canadensis  (c) 

Butternut  Canadian  Hemlock 
Faccinium  vaeillans  (c) 
Low  Blueberry 

b.  Plants  which  recover  slowly  from  the  operation  of  transplanting. 
Some  fine  species  of  ornamental  plants  never  recover  quickly  from 
the  effects  of  being  transplanted.     No  matter  how  carefully  this 
work  may  be  carried  out  there  is  sure  to  be  a  considerable  period 
following  when  the  plant  is  disappointing  in  appearance  and  when  it 
requires  careful  maintenance  if  future  growth  is  to  fulfill  the  expec- 
tation of  the  planter. 

Abelia  grandiflora  Betula  (in  variety) 

Hybrid  Abelia  Birch 

Acer  palmatum  Buxus  sempervirens 

Japanese  Maple  Tree 


TRANSPLANTING  291 

Calluna  vulgaris  Kalmia  latifolia 

Scotch  Heather  Mountain  Laurel 

Carpinus  betulus  Liquidambar  styraciflua 

European  Hornbeam  Sweet  Gum 

Cercis  canadensis  Liriodendron  tulipifera 

Red-bud  Tulip  Tree 

Cornus  florida  Mahonia  aauifolium 

Flowering  Dogwood  Oregon  Grape 

Crataegus  (in  variety)  Pyrus  (in  variety)    ' 

Thorn  Crab 

Fagus  sylvatica  Quercus  rubra 

European  Beech  Red  Oak 

Hibiscus  syriacus  Rhamnus  cathartica 

Rose  of  Sharon  Common  Buckthorn 

Ilex  glabra  Syringa  vulgaris  (in  variety) 

Inkberry  Common  Lilac 

Hex  opaca  Viburnum  tomentosum  plicatum 

American  Holly  Japanese  Snowball 


CHAPTER  XLI 

SHRUBS  FOR  FORCING  IN  WATER  IN  EARLY  SPRING 

BEFORE  winter  has  gone  and  the  warm  days  of  early  spring  cause 
our  early-flowering  shrubs  to  mature  some  very  interesting  flowers 
may  be  developed  indoors  on  twigs  of  such  plants.  These  flowers, 
the  harbingers  of  spring,  may  be  developed  almost  as  well  indoors  as 
out  of  doors  at  a  later  date  on  the  plants.  The  reason  for  such  normal 
development  under  abnormal  conditions  is  that  the  flowers,  complete 
in  miniature  form,  lie  within  the  existing  flower  buds  ready  to  burst 
forth  when  given  sufficient  heat  and  moisture. 

When  forcing  cut  stems  of  hard  wooded  ornamental  plants  in 
water  in  winter  or  early  spring,  the  best  results  are  secured  by  following 
a  few  simple  rules.  When  flowers  are  desired,  select  branches  of  plants 
which  produce  flowers  from  buds  formed  the  previous  year.  Other- 
wise, only  leaves  will  result,  which  of  course  are  sometimes  desirable 
as  an  addition  to  the  flowers  of  other  sorts.  Since  all  the  flowers  and 
leaves  which  will  appear  must  come  from  buds  already  upon  the  twigs 
and  branches  be  careful  to  cut  only  branches  containing  plump,  full 
buds,  especially  when  flowers  are  desired.  It  is  possible  to  cut  these 
branches  at  any  time  from  February  to  April.  After  cutting  the 
branches  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  them  from  drying  out  and  it  is 
often  well  worth  while  to  soak  the  whole  twigs  for  a  few  hours  in  warm 
water,  both  before  starting  to  force  them  and  occasionally  afterward  at 
intervals  of  a  week.  This  will  loosen  the  bud  scales,  soften  the  whole 
fibre  of  the  twig,  and  remove  dust,  thus  taking  the  place  of  spring 
showers.  The  twigs  should  be  from  twelve  to  thirty  inches  long  and 
placed-  in  fairly  large  receptacles  with  plenty  of  water.  The  water 
should  be  changed  every  second  or  third  day  and  should  have  small 
pieces  of  charcoal  added  in  order  to  help  keep  it  sweet.  Each  two  or 
three  days  it  is  advisable  to  make  fresh  cuts  at  the  bottom  ends  of  the 
twigs  and  it  is  often  worth  while  to  wash  the  cut  ends  in  mild  soap  and 
water  to  prevent  sliminess. 

The  forsythias  or  golden  bells  are  the  easiest  and  most  successful 

292 


SHRUBS  FOR  FORCING  IN  WATER 


293 


plants  for  forcing  in  water.  All  sorts  of  currants  are  likely  to  be 
successful,  even  including  the  common  black  currant  of  our  gardens. 
The  dogwoods,  especially  the  cornelian  cherry,  should  not  be  over- 
looked. The  fruit  trees,  such  as  apples,  plums,  cherries,  and  pears, 
may  all  be  forced  though  they  respond  slowly  and  require  several 
weeks'  time  and  much  patience.  The  lilacs  do  not  seem  to  respond 
easily  to  forcing  in  water,  nor  do  the  magnolias.  There  are  many 
common  sorts  of  shrubs,  some  of  which  are  listed  below,  which  will 
provide  flowers  or  catkins. 

In  general,  those  woody  plants  which  flower  first  in  the  spring  are 
the  ones  easiest  to  force  in  water.  Those  which  require  a  longer  period 
to  develop  flowers  from  the  buds  are  not  forced  successfully. 

LIST  OF  SHRUBS  FOR  FORCING  IN  WATER  IN  EARLY 

SPRING 

Generally  speaking,  flowers  of  all  early-blooming  shrubs,  flowering 
upon  wood  of  previous  season,  can  be  forced.  The  branches  may  be 
cut  any  time  after  January;  but  the  best  results  are  obtained  when 
the  branches  are  cut  after  the  sap  begins  to  run.  Place  the  branches 
in  water  and  spray  tops  several  times  daily  to  force  bloom. 


Amelanchier  (white  and  pink) 

Shad-bush 
Caragana  frutescens  (yellow) 

Siberian  Pea  Shrub 
Cercis  canadensis  (pink) 

Red-bud 
Chaenomeles  japonic  a  (pink  and  red) 

Japanese  Quince 
Colutea  arborescens  (light  yellow) 

Bladder  Senna 
Cornus  mas  (light  yellow) 

Cornelian  Cherry 
Corylus  amtricana  (brown) 

Hazelnut 
Deutzia  gracilis  (white) 

Slender  Deutzia 
Forsythia  (all  sorts)  (yellow) 

Golden  Bell 


Kerria  japonica  (yellow) 

Globe-flower 
Lonicera  fragrantissima  (pink  and  white) 

Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus  (all  sorts)  (white) 

Mock  Orange 
Prunus  cerasus  (pink) 

Flowering  Cherry 
Prunus  triloba  (pink) 

Flowering  Plum 
Pyrus  halliana  parkmani 

Parkman's  Crab 
Ribes  aureum  (yellow) 

Flowering  Currant 
Salix  caprea  (grey) 

Goat  Willow 
Spiraea  arguta  (very  fine)  (white) 

Hybrid  Snow  Garland 


CHAPTER  XLII 
PRUNING  REQUIREMENTS 

THE  question  of  the  necessary  pruning  required  by  various  trees  and 
shrubs  is  a  natural  one.  Many  persons  are  under  the  impression  that 
every  tree  and  shrub  requires  a  certain  amount  of  pruning  each  year. 
Many  are  under  the  further  impression  that  all  of  this  pruning  should 
be  done  in  the  winter  and  spring,  while  others  are  under  the  impres- 
sion that  it  should  be  done  during  the  summer  or  fall. 

The  most  important  fact  to  be  known  in  connection  with  the  opera- 
tion of  pruning  is  that  one  should  be  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
flowering  characteristics  of  the  plants  to  be  pruned.  Our  lawn  shrubs 
especially,  which  are  often  subject  to  the  most  indiscriminate  kinds  of 
pruning,  comprise  a  group  of  plants  with  which  this  chapter  is  con- 
cerned. Pruning  is  done  for  various  purposes,  as  outlined  and  dis- 
cussed in  the  chapter  on  Pruning.  The  question  under  discussion  in 
this  chapter  is  whether  or  not  all  shrubs  shall  be  pruned  at  a  definite 
season  of  the  year,  and  if  not,  what  are  the  special  reasons  why  this 
standard  method  of  procedure  should  not  be  adopted. 

As  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  paragraph,  before  any  pruning  of 
shrubs  is  attempted  it  is  essential  to  recognize  their  flowering  habits. 
The  operation  of  pruning  necessarily  involves  the  removal  not  only  of 
dead  wood  but  of  much  wood  which  is  alive  and  growing;  wood  which 
produces  flowers  and,  subsequently,  fruit.  The  spring  and  early 
summer-blooming  trees  and  shrubs  produce  flowers  from  buds  which 
are  formed  upon  the  wood  during  the  previous  growing  season.  These 
embryo  flowers  contained  within  the  buds  have  existed  in  the  bud  form 
since  the  wood  of  the  previous  season  had  begun  to  ripen,  and  they  are 
protected  by  the  scales  or  outer  covering  of  the  bud  until  such  time 
as  the  temperature  has  been  sufficient  to  encourage  their  growth.  It 
is  therefore  clear  that  any  pruning  which  is  done  upon  such  plants 
during  the  late  winter  or  early  spring  months,  prior  to  the  time  when 
these  plants  have  produced  their  flowers,  is  an  operation  whereby  a 
greater  or  less  quantity  of  flowers  is  deliberately  removed  from  the  plant. 

294 


PLATE  XLVI.  Many  of  our  common  garden  perennials  possess  the  possibil- 
ities to  produce  very  interesting  colour  effects  through  the  colour  combination 
of  the  flowers.  (A)  Italian  alkanet;  (B)  hardy  marguerite.  (See  page  231) 


295 

An  ornamental  plant  is  rarely  over-supplied  with  flowers.  It  therefore 
behooves  us  to  preserve,  so  far  as  possible,  all  of  the  buds  which  pro- 
duce flowers.  Practically  all  of  the  growth  of  new  wood  on  these  plants, 
which  adds  to  the  increasing  size  of  the  plant,  develops  after  the  plant 
has  completed  its  flowering  period.  Buds  containing  the  flowers  for 
the  succeeding  year  are  often  developed  on  wood  which  is  formed  after 
the  plant  has  matured  its  flowers.  Therefore,  pruning  on  plants  of 
this  kind,  such  as  the  mock  orange,  high-bush  cranberry,  snowball, 
and  Van  Houtte's  spirea,  should  be  done  immediately  after  the  flowers 
have  matured,  to  stimulate  a  correct  kind  of  new  growth  on  which 
may  be  developed  flower  buds  for  the  next  season.  One  of  the  most 
common  faults  in  connection  with  the  pruning  of  trees  and  shrubs  is 
that  of  applying  the  same  principles  of  pruning  to  all  kinds  of  shrubs 
regardless  of  whether  they  are  early  spring-flowering  or  late  summer- 
flowering,  and  in  so  doing  to  deprive  the  plant  of  much  of  its  beauty 
and  attractiveness  exhibited  through  its  mass  of  flowers.  In  such 
shrubs,  of  the  spring  and  early  summer-flowering  types,  which  produce 
flowers  from  buds  on  the  growth  of  the  previous  year,  pruning,  to 
produce  the  maximum  of  new  growth  for  increasing  the  quantity  of 
flowers  during  the  succeeding  year,  should  never  be  delayed  more  than 
two  weeks  beyond  the  time  when  the  plant  has  matured  its  flowers. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  is  a  group  of  shrubs  of  which  the  best 
examples  are  the  rose  of  Sharon,  butterfly  bush,  hydrangea,  and  snow- 
berry,  which  are  of  the  late  summer  and  fall-blooming  types,  and 
on  which  the  flower-producing  buds  are  formed  on  the  same  season's 
growth.  To  produce  the  maximum  of  flowers  on  such  shrubs  it  is 
necessary  that  they  should  be  pruned  during  the  late  winter  and  early 
spring  months  before  growth  for  that  season  has  commenced.  In  this 
way  much  of  the  old  wood  is  removed,  and  a  greater  quantity  of  new 
wood,  with  its  accompanying  flower  buds,  is  encouraged.  If  a  general 
rule  is  to  be  applied  to  all  trees  and  shrubs  it  would  be  much  prefer- 
able to  give  them  a  so-called  summer  pruning,  which  means  that  the 
operation  of  pruning  should  be  delayed  until  shortly  after  the  shrubs 
have  completed  their  flowering. 

In  connection  with  this  discussion  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
there  are  also  some  trees  and  shrubs  such  as  the  flowering  dogwood, 
Judas  tree,  and  lilac,  which  are  not  so  much  benefited  by  annual 
pruning,  and  which  should  be  pruned  only  by  the  most  capable  of 
experts. 


296  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

There  is  a  group  of  plants  which  practically  require  only  the  removal 
of  dead  wood  and  superfluous  growth.  These  trees  and  shrubs  are  apt 
to  be  more  or  less  injured  by  the  operation  of  pruning.  They  normally 
are  comparatively  slow  growing.  They  have  a  tendency  to  grow  in- 
formally and  to  maintain  the  normal  shape  of  the  plant  as  they  con- 
tinue to  increase  in  size.  The  operation  of  pruning  does  not  encourage 
a  sufficient  new  growth  and  oftentimes  so  changes  the  physiological  con- 
dition of  the  plant  that  the  flowering  ability  is  impaired  to  a  marked 
degree  during  the  succeeding  one  or  two  years. 

From  the  foregoing  discussions  it  is  evident  that  the  operation  of 
pruning,  as  applied  to  the  questions  of  just  what  shrubs  to  prune  in 
spring  and  what  shrubs  to  prune  in  summer,  and  what  shrubs  should 
never  or  rarely  be  pruned,  is  an  important  one.  It  is  not  an  operation 
the  decision  for  doing  which  should  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  any  but 
those  who  are  skilled  in  the  art  and  those  who  are  thoroughly  familiar 
with  the  reasons  pro  and  con. 

PRUNING  LISTS 

A.     SHRUBS  NEEDING  COMPLETE  PRUNING: 
a.  Spring  and  early  summer-flowering: 

Benzoin  aestivale  Forsythia  (in  variety) 

Spice  Bush  Golden  Bell 

Berberis  thunbergi  Hamamelis  virginiana 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Witch  Hazel 

Cephalanthus  occidental**  Hippophae  rhamnoides 

Button  Bush  Sea  Buckthorn 

Cercis  canadensis  Hydrangea  arborescens 

Red-bud  Wild  Hydrangea 

Chionanthus  virginica  Kerria  japonica 

White  Fringe  Globe-flower 

Cornus  (in  variety)  Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Dogwood  Privet 

Cotoneaster  (in  variety)  Lonicera  (in  variety) 

Cotoneaster  Honeysuckle 

Dfutzia  (in  variety)  Philadelphus  (in  variety) 

Deutzia  Mock  Orange 

Diervilla  hybrida  Physocarpus  opulifolius 

Hybrid  Weigela  Ninebark 

Dirca  palustris  Rhamnus  cathartica 

Leather- wood  Common  Buckthorn 

Elaeagnus  angustifolia  Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Russian  Olive  White  Kerria 

Evonymus  (in  variety)  Robinia  hispida 

Burning  Bush  Rose  Acacia 


PRUNING  REQUIREMENTS  297 

Sambucus  canadensis  Spiraea  tomentosa 

American  Elder  Hardhack 

Spiraea  arguta  Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Hybrid  Snow  Garland  Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 

Spiraea  billardi  Stephanandra  flexuosa 

Billard's  Spirea  Stephanandra 

Spiraea  prunifolia  Syringa  (in  variety) 

Bridal  Wreath  Lilac 

Viburnum  (in  variety) 
Viburnum 

b.     Late  summer  and  fall-flowering: 

Amorpha  fruticosa  Hydrangea  (in  variety) 

False  Indigo  Hydrangea 

Buddleia  davidi  (Cut  back  in  spring  to      Sorbaria  arborea 

prevent  danger  of  rotting)  Chinese  Mountain  Ash  Spirea 

Sweet-scented  Buddleia  Spiraea  douglasi 

Ceanothus  americanus  Douglas'  Spirea 

New  Jersey  Tea  Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Clethra  alnifolia  Snowberry 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  Vitex  incisa 

Hibiscus  syriacus  .    Cut-leaved  Hemp-tree 

Rose  of  Sharon 

B.     SHRUBS  NEEDING  REMOVAL  OF  OLD  WOOD  ONLY: 

a.  Summer  pruning: 

Caragana  Magnolia 

Pea  Shrub  Magnolia 

Daphne  Mahonia 

Deciduous  Daphne  Oregon  Grape 

Halesia  Prunus  cerasus 

Silver  Bell  Flowering  Cherry 

Koelreuteria  Pyracantha 

Varnish  Tree  Evergreen  Thorn 

Laburnum  vulgare  Rhododendron 

Golden  Chain  Rhododendron 

Lonicera  tatarica  Staphylea 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle  Bladder-nut 

Xanthoceras 
Chinese  Flowering  Chestnut 

b.  Winter  pruning: 

Aralia  Pavia 

Angelica  Tree  Dwarf  Horse-chestnut 

Artemisia  Robinia  Pseudacacia 

Wormwood  Black  Locust 

Cladrastis  Yucca 

Yellow- wood  Adam's  Needle 


298  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

C.  TREES  WHICH  REQUIRE  LITTLE  OR  No  PRUNING: 

Aesculus  Paulownia 

Horse-chestnut  Empress  Tree 

Catalpa  Robinia 

Indian  Bean  Locust 

Liriodendron  Sophora 

Tulip  Tree  Pagoda  Tree 

Sorbus 
Mountain  Ash 

D.  EVERGREENS  THAT  SHOULD  BE  PRUNED  IN  MAY  OR  JUNE 

Abies  Picea 

Fir  Spruce     . 

Pinus 
Pine 

E.  EVERGREENS  THAT  MAY  BE  PRUNED  AT  ANY  TIME: 

Chamaecyparis  Taxus 

Cypress  Yew 

Juniperus  Thuja 

Juniper  Arborvitae 


CHAPTER  XLIII 
PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA 

THE  following  compilation  covers  information  concerning  plants  used 
for  different  landscape  purposes  in  the  Florida  zones.  Some  of  these 
plants  are  followed  by  the  letter  (T)  which  indicates  that  such  material 
is  tropical  and  is  not  adapted  to  the  middle-south  and  northern  por- 
tion of  this  state. 

This  list  is  subject  to  considerable  modification  as  further  study  of 
these  plants  brings  more  complete  information  concerning  their  adapta- 
tions and  uses. 

The  subject  of  Florida  horticulture,  especially  from  the  landscape 
viewpoint,  concerning  the  use  and  adaptations  of  plant  materials,  is 
yet  in  its  infancy.  Very  few  men  have  given  any  serious  thought  to 
this  subject;  at  least  very  little  information  is  now  in  printed  form  and 
available  to  those  interested  in  this  work. 

Florida  is  fast  developing  into  one  of  the  great  winter  playgrounds 
and  home  sections  for  many  northern  people  who  wish  to  escape  the 
undesirable  winter  conditions.  These  people  enter  the  state  with  the 
intention  of  developing  homes  and  with  every  desire  to  beautify  them, 
as  is  customary  in  connection  with  northern  homes.  A  great  dis- 
appointment is  encountered  as  soon  as  they  endeavour  to  consult  in- 
formation which  will  tend  to  assist  them  in  the  landscape  development 
of  their  property.  This  list  will  be  of  some  value  to  those  persons 
and  to  many  others  who  are  interested  in  the  use  of  landscape  ma- 
terials throughout  this  section  of  the  south. 

In  selecting  material  for  various  types  of  Florida  plantings  two 
things  must  be  taken  definitely  into  consideration:  Material  should 
be  selected  which  is  of  real  value  during  the  summer  months  in  Florida, 
and  also  material  must  often  be  selected  which  is  of  distinct  value 
during  the  winter  months.  The  plants  included  in  this  list  have  been 
selected  for  their  general  value  throughout  the  year  and  more 
particularly  during  the  winter  months.  In  view  of  this  it  is  es- 
sential that  this  material  should  be  interesting  because  of  its 


300  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

foliage  or  its  flowers  during  the  months  from  November  to  the  first 
of  April. 

There  are  many  northern  types  of  material  which  can  easily  be  used  in 
Florida  plantations  for  its  value  during  the  winter  months.  There  are 
many  other  types  of  northern  material  with  which  experiments  should 
be  conducted  concerning  their  value  for  plantations  in  this  climate. 

Many  of  the  plants  so  familiar  to  northern  plantings  can  be  equally 
well  used  in  plantings  of  the  far  south.  Privet,  golden  bell,  magnolia, 
and  spirea  are  among  this  group  which  have  value  during  the  winter 
months.  Most  of  the  more  hardy-flowering  shrubs  can  be  used  in 
plantings,  but  because  their  period  of  flowering  and  of  fruiting  does  not 
come  during  these  winter  months  (December  to  April)  they  have  been 
little  used.  The  northern  tourist  is  seeking  colour  of  flowers  while 
occupying  his  winter  home  in  Florida.  He  also  seeks  air  and  sunshine. 
The  heavy  shade  provided  by  the  silk  oak  and  the  water  oak  so  much 
desired  by  Floridians  he  wishes  replaced  by  warmth  of  winter  sunshine 
and  tropical  growth  of  palms  which  cast  but  little  shade.  The  familiar 
growth  of  shrubs  carrying  the  atmosphere  of  the  north  must  be  re- 
placed by  shrubs  and  vines  with  brilliantly  coloured  flowers  and  foliage 
like  the  croton,  oleander,  trumpet-vine,  Chinese  hibiscus,  and  chenille 
plant. 

The  great  tendency  in  Florida  plantings  has  been  to  develop  a 
"spotty"  effect  at  the  expense  of  sacrificing  interesting  landscape  com- 
positions. The  "mass"  planting  of  the  north  is  seldom  seen.  Most 
types  of  southern  plants  are  perhaps  better  adapted  to  specimen  plant- 
ing than  to  mass  effects.  For  effective  mass  planting  around  buildings, 
the  croton,  Chinese  hibiscus,  and  chenille  plant  are  among  the  best. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA 

A.  WINDBREAKS.  It  is  often  necessary  in  many  locations,  espe- 
cially along  the  water  fronts,  to  plant  windbreaks  that  will  preserve 
the  more  tender  types  of  plants  and  which  will  preserve  the  lighter 
soils  against  heavy  windstorms  coming  from  the  direction  of  the 
prevailing  winds.  Windbreaks  in  this  section  of  the  country  are 
not  used  for  the  same  purpose  that  windbreaks  are  generally  used  in 
the  northern  climates  where  winter  protection  is  the  main  use.  Wind- 
breaks throughout  the  Florida  section  are  of  greatest  value  against 
erosion  of  the  lighter  soils  because  of  prevailing  winds  and  injuries 
to  the  more  tender  plants. 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA  301 

Bambusa  argentea  Cinnamomum  camphora 

Silver  Bamboo  Camphor  Tree 

Bambusa  striata  Grevillea  robusta  (T) 

Striped  Bamboo  Silk  Oak 

Callitris  verrucosa  Pithecolobium  dulce 

Cypress  Pine  Manila  Tamarind 

Casuarina  equisetifolia  Quercus  nigra 

Australian  Pine  Water  Oak 

B.     TREES  FOR  STREET  AND  SPECIMEN  PLANTING: 

a.  Northern  list:     This  group  of  trees  covers  material  which  can 
be  used  throughout  northern  Florida,  southern  Georgia,  Alabama,  and 
over  the  area  which  is  known  as  the  Coastal  Plain.     In  general,  this 
list  does  not  extend  into  Florida  farther  than  one  hundred  miles  south 
of  Jacksonville.     Trees  in  this  group  which  are  marked  thus  (+)  are 
also  adapted  for  street  tree  and  specimen  planting  in  the  southern  por- 
tion of  Florida  as  shown  on  the  accompanying  list: 

Acer  rubrum  Gordonia  lasianthus 

Red  Maple  Loblolly  Bay 

Albizzia  julibrissin  Ilex  opaca 

Mimosa  American  Holly 

Broussonetia  papyrifera  Liquidambar  styracifl.ua 

Paper  Mulberry  Sweet  Gum 

Cedrus  deodar  a  -{-Magnolia  grandiflora 

Deodar  Magnolia 

Cedrus  libani  Melia  azedarach  umbraculiformis 

Cedar  of  Lebanon  Umbrella  Tree 

Celtis  occidentalis  -{-Quercus  laurifolia 

Nettle  Tree  Laurel  Oak 

-\-Cercis  canadensis  Quercus  nigra 

Red-bud  Water  Oak 

-\-Cornusflorida  Quercus  phellos 

Flowering  Dogwood  Willow  Oak 

Cunninghamia  sinensis  Quercus  virginiana 

Chinese  Pine  Live  Oak 
Ulmus  americana 
American  Elm 

b.  Southern  list:     This  group  of  trees,  together  with  those  which 
are  marked  thus  (+)  in  the  previous  list,  are  adapted  especially  for 
street  planting  throughout  the  southern  and  middle  section  of  Florida. 
Those  marked  (*)  are  the  more  commonly  used  and  perhaps  the  better 
types  for  street  tree  planting. 

Adenanthera  pavonina  Aleurites  triloba 

Circassian  Bean  Candle-nut 

Albizzia  lebbek  (T)  Araucaria  excelsa  (T) 

Woman's  Tongue  Tree  Norfolk  Island  Pine 


302  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Bauhinia  (in  variety)  (T)  Cryptomeria  japonica 

Mountain  Ebony  Japanese  Cedar 

Bombax  ctiba  Delonix  regia  (T) 

Silk  Cotton  Tree  Royal  Poinciana 

Callitris  robusta  Ficus  nitida 

Cypress  Pine  Indian  Laurel 

Calophyllum  calaba  Ficus  species  (T) 

Calaba  Tree  Rubber  and  Fig  Trees 

Canangium  odoratum  Gordonia  lasianthus 

Ylang-Ylang  Loblolly  Bay 

Cassia  fistula   ^  *Grevillea  robusta  (T) 

Yellow  Cassia  Silk  Oak 

*Casuarina  equisetifolia  Ilex  specimens,  especially  Ilex  opaca 

Australian  Pine  American  Holly 

Cedrela  odorata  Libocedrus  decurrens 

West  Indian  Cedar  Incense  Cedar 

Cinnamomum  camphora  Mangifera  indica 

Camphor  Tree  Mango 

*Cocos  plumosa  Sabal  palmetto 

Cocoanut  Palm  Cabbage  Palmetto 
*Washingtonia  robusta 
California  Fan  Palm 

C.  VINES.  The  first  part  of  this  group  consists  of  those  vines  which 
are  commonly  known  as  scrambling  vines  and  which  must  be  provided 
with  a  definite  support  on  which  they  can  twine  or  to  which  tendrils 
can  attach  themselves  in  order  to  maintain  their  upright  habit  of 
growth.  Most  of  the  vines  which  are  interesting  in  the  north  are 
of  great  value  in  Florida  planting.  There  is  also  an  extensive  list 
of  vines  which  will  not  grow  in  the  northern  climates,  but  which  are 
valuable  in  Florida.  Those  which  are  marked  thus  (+)  are  very  in- 
teresting for  Florida  planting  on  account  of  their  habit  of  producing 
flowers  during  the  winter  months.  The  second  part  of  this  group  is 
composed  of  vines  which  can  be  used  for  covering  bare  wall  surfaces 
and  which  will  naturally  attach  themselves  to  walls  of  brick,  stone, 
or  concrete.  These  vines  are  of  the  evergreen  type  of  foliage  and  are 
of  value  only  for  their  foliage  effect.  / 

a.     Lattices  and  wire  fences: 

Abrus  precatorius  Antigonon  leptopus 

Crab's  Eye  Vine  Mountain  Rose 

-\-Allamanda  hendersoni  (T)  Ampelopsis  quinquefolia 

Henderson's  Allamanda  t  Virginia  Creeper 

-\-Allamanda  williamsi  (T)  Aristolochia  elegans 

Williams'  Allamanda  Dwarf  Dutchman's  Pipe 


PLATE  XLVII.  During  the  early  spring  no  woodland  wild  garden  is  com- 
plete without  its  quota  of  trilliums,  grape  hyacinth,  and  hepatica  which  grow 
luxuriantly  if  happily  surrounded  by  correct  conditions  of  soil  and  shade. 
(See  page  227,  group  XXXI-C) 


PLATE  XLVIII.  Among  those  plants  which  become  easily  established  in 
the  wild  garden,  there  is  none  the  flower  effect  ot"  which  excels  the  Japanese 
windflower  during  the  late  summer.  (See  page  227,  group  XXXI-C) 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA 


303 


Beaumontia  grandifiora 

White-flowered  Beaumontia 
Bignonia  chinensis 

Chinese  Trumpet  Creeper 
-\-Bougainvillea  braziliensis 

Paper  Flower 
-f-  Bougainville a  glabra  sanderiana 

Paper  Flower 
Cereus  triangularis 

Cereus  Vine 
Clematis  paniculata 

Japanese  Clematis 
-\-Clerodendron  thompsonae 

Scarlet  Clerodendron 
Cobaea  scandens  (T) 

Cup  and  Saucer  Vine 
-\-Gelsemium  sempervirens 

Carolina  Jasmine 
Jasminum  grandiflorum 

Catalonian  Jasmine 
Lonicera  japonica  halliana  (north) 

Japanese  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  sempervirens 

Coral  Honeysuckle 
Passiflora  incarnata 

Purple  Passion  Flower 

Vitis  capensis 
Evergreen  Grape 


Petraea  volubilis 
Queen's  Wreath 

Pithecoctenium  cynanchoides 

Argentine  Monkey's  Comb 
Parana  paniculata 

Snow  Creeper 
Pyrostegia  venusta 

Flame  Flower 
Rosa  laevigata 

Cherokee  Rose 
Rosa  setigera  (north  only) 

Prairie  Rose 
Rosa  (climbing  hybrids) 

Rose 
Smilax 

Greenbrier 
Solandra  guttata 

Chalice  Vine 

Solanum  seaforthianum  (T) 

Tomatillo 
Solanum  wendlandi 

Tomatillo 
Thunbergia  (in  variety)  (T) 

Thunbergia 
Trachelospermum  jasminoides 

Confederate  Jasmine 


b.    Masonry  walls: 

Bignonia  capreolata 

Cross  Flower 
Bignonia  radicans 

Trumpet  Vine 
Bignonia  speciosa 

South  American  Cross  Vine 
Evonymus  radicans 

Climbing  Evonymus 


Ficus  repens 

Creeping  Fig 
Ficus  villosa 

Large-leaved  Creeping  Fig 
Hedera  helix  (north  only) 

English  Ivy 
Pyrostegia  venusta 

Flame  Flower 


D.  SHRUBS  WITH  ATTRACTIVE  FRUIT.  The  following  is  a  group 
of  shrubs  which  are  of  value  in  Florida  plantations  because  of 
their  fruiting  characteristics,  especially  during  the  winter  months. 
Quite  different  from  similar  shrubs  in  northern  climates,  these 
shrubs  fruit  much  more  abundantly  and  retain  their  fruit  a  greater 
length  of  time  in  this  mild  climate  than  would  be  the  case  farther 
north. 


3o4  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Ardisia  revoluta  Eleagnus  pungens 

Turkey  Fruit  Silver  Thorn 

Baccharis  halimifolia  Eriobotrya  japonica 

Groundsel  Bush  Medlar 

Bixa  orellana  Eugenia  jambos 

Arnalto  Rose  Apple 

Carissa  acuminata  (T)  Eugenia  uniflora 

Natal  Plum  Surinam  Cherry 

Chalcas  paniculata  Hamelia  erecta 

Orange  Jasmine  Scarlet  Bush 

Citrus  deliciosa  Ilex  cassine 

Kid  Glove  Orange  Dahoon  Holly 

Citrus  grandis  Ilex  opaca 

Grape-fruit  American  Holly 

Citrus  japonica  Laurocerasus  caroliniana 

Kumquat  Wild  Orange 

Citrus  sinensis  Malpighia  coccigera 

Orange  Dwarf  Barbadoes  Cherry 

Clerodendron  siphonanthus  Mangifera  indica 

Turk's  Turban  Mango 

Cotoneaster  acuminata  Musa 

Rose  Box  Banana 

Cotoneaster  frigida  Punica  granatum 

Rose  Box  Pomegranate 

Cotoneaster  pannosa  Rhodomyrtus  tomentosus 

Silver-leaved  Rose  Box  Downy  Myrtle 

Duranta  repens  Tamarindus  indica 

Golden  Dewdrop  Tamarind 

Triphasia  trifoliata 
Bergamot  Berry 


E.  HEDGES.  For  hedge  planting  there  is  in  Florida  a  wider  range 
of  material  adapted  to  such  use  than  is  ordinarily  found  in  northern 
types  of  material.  The  first  group  given  includes  those  shrubs  which 
make  low,  compact  hedges  together  with  those  which  develop  into  a 
larger  and  looser  type  of  hedge.  Those  shrubs  which  are  marked  (+) 
are  valuable  for  hedge  planting  because  of  their  flowering  and  fruiting 
characteristics.  The  remainder  are  valuable  mostly  on  account  of  the 
foliage  effect.  The  second  list  of  material,  which  is  for  northern 
Florida,  could  be  greatly  enlarged  provided  it  should  seem  advisable 
to  use  material  which  is  often  used  in  hedges  planted  farther  north 
and  which  shed  their  leaves  during  the  winter  months.  The  group 
includes  plants  which  are  practically  evergreen  or  which  have  some 
value  for  their  fruit  or  flowers.  Practically  all  of  these  can  be  used 
with  equal  success  in  middle  and  southern  Florida. 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA 

a.     Middle  and  southern  Florida: 


305 


-\-Acalypha  hispida  (T) 

Chenille  Plant 
Bambusa  disticha 

Bamboo 
-{-Carissa  bispinosa  (T) 

Natal  Plum 
Cinnamomum  camphora 

Camphor  Tree 
-^Eugenia  uniflora 

Surinam  Cherry 
-\-Gardenia  florida 

Cape  Jasmine 
Gordonia  lasianthus 

Loblolly  Bay 
+ Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis 

Chinese  Hibiscus 
Juniperus  lucayana 

Southern  Red  Cedar 
Nerium  oleander 

Oleander 

b.     Northern  Florida: 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 
Berberis  thunbergi 

Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry 
Buxus  sempervirens 

Tree  Box 
Citrus  trifoliata 

Hardy  Orange 
Evonymus  japonicus 

Evergreen  Evonymus 


Phyllanthus  nivosus 

Snow  Bush 
Pittosporum  tobira 

Tobira  Shrub 
Pittosporum  undulatum 

Victorian  Box 
Prunus  caroliniana 

Carolina  Laurel  Cherry 
Psidium  cattleianum 

Cattley  Guava 
Raphiolepis  indica 

Indian  Hawthorn 
Severinia  buxifolia 

Severino's  Citrus 
Tabernaemontana  coronariaflore  plena 

Rose  Bay 
Triphasia  trifoliata 

Bergamot  Berry 
Viburnum  tinus 

Laurestinus 


Ligustrum  amurense 

Amoor  River  Privet 
Ligustrum  nepalense  variegata 

Variegated  Nepaul  Privet 
Nerium  oleander 

Oleander 
Punica  granatum 

Pomegranate 
Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 
Thea  sinensis 
Tea  Plant 

F.  FLOWERING  SHRUBS  FOR  MIDDLE  AND  SOUTHERN  FLORIDA. 
The  following  is  a  group  of  shrubs  of  more  refined  habit  of  growth  which 
are  adapted  to  middle  and  southern  Florida.  Those  shrubs  which  are 
marked  (+)  are  in  flower  during  the  winter  months  and  are  especially 
valuable  for  the  northern  tourists  who  visit  Florida  then. 


a.     White  flowers: 

Abelia  grandiflora 
Hybrid  Abelia 

Aralia  spinosa 
Hercules  Club 


-\-Assonia  natalensis 
White  Assonia 

•\-Ar.alea  indica 
Indian  Azalea 


306  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

-\-Bauhinia  acuminata  (T)  Lawsonia  inermis  (T) 

White  Mountain  Ebony  Henna 

Chalcas  paniculata  (T)  Ligustrum  nepalense 

Orange  Jasmine  Nepaul  Privet 

-\-Chionanthus  virginica  +Nerium  oleander  (single  white) 

White  Fringe  White  Oleander 

Cotone aster  frigida  Osmanthus  americanus 

Rose  Box  Florida  Olive 

Cotoneaster  pannosa  Osmanthus  fragrans 

Silver-leaved  Rose  Box  Sweet  Olive 

Eleagnuspungens  +Pittosporum  tobira 

Silver  Thorn  Tobira  Shrub 

Gardenia  florida  -^-Plumbago  capensis  alba 

Cape  Jasmine  White  Leadwort 

+ Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis  -\-Rosa  (on  multiflora  stock) 

Chinese  Hibiscus  Garden  Roses 

Hydrangea  hortensis  -\-Tabernaemontanacoronariaflore  plena 

Japanese  Hydrangea  Rose  Bay 

Ixora  colei  (T)  Tetrapanax  papyriferum 

White  Ixora  Rice  Paper  Plant 

+Lagerstroemia  indie  a  Thunbergia  erecta  alba 

Crape  Myrtle  White  Thunbergia 

-\-Laurocfrasus  caroliniana  Viburnum  odoratissimum 

Wild  Orange  ,          Fragrant  Japanese  Viburnum 

-\-Viburnum  tinus 
Laurestinus 

b.  Pink  flowers: 

•\-Assonia  punctata  Hydrangea  opuloides  otaksa 

Pink  Assonia  Hydrangea 

+ Azalea  indica  Ixora  rosea  splendens  (T) 

Indian  Azalea  Rose-coloured  Ixora 

•\-Bauhinia  purpurea  triandra  Lagerstroemia  indica 

Pink-flowering  Mountain  Ebony  Crape  Myrtle 

Camellia  japonica  Nerium  oleander  Savort 

Japonica  Pink  Oleander 

-\-Cestrum  elegans  Punicea  granatum 

Red  Coral  Jasmine  Pomegranate 

Chaenomeles  japonica  Rhodomyrtus  tomentosus  (T) 

Japanese  Quince  Downy  Myrtle 

Cotoneaster  acuminata  +Rosa  (on  multiflora  stock) 

Rose  Box  Garden  Roses 

-\-Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis  Tamarix  caspica 

Chinese  Hibiscus  Tamarisk 

c .  Yellow  flowers: 

Acacia  farnesiana  Artobotrys  odoratissimus 
Papinac  False  Ylang-Ylang 

-\-Allamanda  nerifolia  -\-Bauhinia  tomentpsa  (T) 
Yellow  Allamanda  Yellow  Mountain  Ebony 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA 


307 


•\-Caesalpina  pulcherrima  flava 

Barbadoes  Flower  Fence 
+ Cestrum  aurantiacum  (T) 

Yellow  Cestrum 
Hamelia  sphatrocarpa 

Scarlet  Bush 
Ixora  flore  luteo  (T) 

Yellow  Ixora 
-\-Jasminum  nudiflorum 

Naked-flowered  Jasmine 
-\-Jasminum  primulinum 

New  Chinese  Jasmine 


d.     Red  flowers: 

-\-Acalypha  hispida  (T) 

Chenille  Plant 
+ Azalea  indie  a 

Indian  Azalea 
Caesalpina  pulcherrima 

Barbadoes  Flower  Fence 

Callistemon  lanceolatus 

Bottle-brush 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 

Euphorbia  pulcherrima 

Poinsettia 
Hamelia  erecta  fT) 

Scarlet  Bush 


+ Micheliajuscata 

Banana  Shrub 
Paritium  tiliaceum 

Yellow  Ernajagua 
Podachaenium  eminent 

Mexican  Shrub  Daisy 
+Rosa  (on  multiflora  stock) 

Garden  Roses 
-\-Stenolobium  stans  sambucifolia 

Yellow-flowering  Elder 
+  Tecoma  stans 

Yellow  Elder 


Thevetia  nerlfolia 
Trumpet  Flower 


+ Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis 

Chinese  Hibiscus 
Ixora  coccinea  (T) 

Scarlet  Ixora 
Lagerstroemia  indica 

Crape  Myrtle 
Lawsonia  rubra 

Red  Flowering  Henna 
Malvaviscus  arboreus 

Turk's  Cap 
Nerium  oleander  DeBrun 

Double  Crimson  Oleander 
•^•Roses  (on  multiflora  stock) 

Garden  Roses 


e.    Purple  and  blue  flowers: 


+Allamanda  pur  pur ea 

Purple  Allamanda 
Asystasia  bella 

Mackaya 
-\-Azalea  indica 

Indian  Azalea 
Bauhinia  purpurea  (T) 

Purple  Mountain  Ebony 
Callicarpa  americana 

Beauty  Fruit 


-{-Daedalacanthus  nervosus  (T) 

Blue  Justicia 
Duranta  repens 

Golden  Dewdrop 
-\-Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis 

Chinese  Hibiscus 
Hydrangea  opuloides  otaksa 

Hydrangea 
Lagerestroemia  indica 

Crape  Myrtle 
-{•Plumbago  capensis 
Blue  Leadwort 


G.  GROUND-COVER  PLANTS.  This  list  contains  a  group  of  vines 
which  are  interesting  for  ground  cover  in  partially  shaded  situations. 
Most  of  these  vines  are  evergreen  in  their  habit  of  foliage  and  are  of 


3o8  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

value  for  covering  banks  and  other  bare  areas  where  it  is  desired  to  have 
another  covering  than  grass. 

Ferns  (in  moist  shade)  Lonicera  sempervirens 

Ferns  Coral  Honeysuckle 

Gelsemium  sempervirens  Zebrina  pendula 

Carolina  Jasmine  Wandering  Jew 

Hedera  helix  Zoysia  matrella 

English  Ivy  Manilla  Grass 

Lonicera  japonica  halliana  Zoysia  tenuifolia 

Japanese  Honeysuckle  Mascarene  Grass 

H.  SHRUBS  FOR  SHADY  CONDITIONS.  The  following  is  a  group  of 
shrubs  most  of  which  are  evergreen  in  their  foliage  characteristics,  and 
all  of  which  are  adapted  for  plantations  in  partial  shade,  either  under 
large  trees  or  on  the  north  side  of  buildings  where  full  sunlight  is 
not  available. 

Azalea  indica  Ligustrum  amurense 

Indian  Azalea  Amoor  River  Privet 

Camellia  japonica  Ligustrum  nepalense  variegata 

Japonica  Variegated  Nepaul  Privet 

Hamelia  erecta  Osmanthus  fragrans 

Scarlet  Bush  Sweet  Olive 

Hamelia  sphaerocarpa  Severinia  buxifolia 

Scarlet  Bush  Severino's  Citrus 

I.  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  This  group  includes  plants  many  of 
which  are  semi-woody  in  character  and  which  fundamentally  are 
known  as  herbaceous  stock.  There  is  still  a  great  opportunity  to 
introduce  a  number  of  the  northern  types  of  herbaceous  stock  into  the 
garden  plantations  of  Florida.  This  list  is  compiled  as  a  partial  list 
of  those  which  to  date  have  been  found  to  be  of  real  interest  and  value. 
Many  other  plants  may  be  added  to  this  list  in  safety,  but  because  of 
the  lack  of  record  of  experiments  conducted  with  their  growth  in  this 
climate  they  have  not  been  included. 

The  climate  of  middle  and  southern  Florida  has  been  aptly  described 
by  one  horticulturist  as  that  of  a  great  out-of-door  greenhouse.  The 
climate  is  such  that  many  of  the  flowering  annuals  so  familiar  to  the 
gardens  of  the  north  prove  failures  when  grown  in  the  Florida  garden. 
Such  plants  as  the  annual  larkspur,  snapdragon,  China  aster,  sweet 
William,  and  baby's  breath,  producing  such  an  abundance  of  cut  flowers 
when  grown  in  the  north,  are  grown  with  little  success  in  Florida. 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA  309 

Nasturtiums,  annual  phlox,  gaillardia,  zinnias,  and  marigolds  pro- 
duce quantities  of  flowers. 

In  the  north  such  annuals  are  seeded  in  the  latter  part  of  April. 
Flowers  are  then  produced  early  in  July.  In  the  Florida  garden,  if 
flowers  are  desired  early  in  January,  the  nasturtium  seeds  are  sown 
during  the  first  week  of  September,  alyssum  seeds  not  later  than  No- 
vember tenth,  sweet  peas  in  early  September,  and  the  other  annuals, 
such  as  annual  phlox,  gaillardia,  verbenas,  annual  carnation,  and 
calendulas,  are  seeded  not  later  than  the  first  week  in  October.  If 
flowers  are  wanted  at  an  earlier  date  seeds  should  be  sown  proportion- 
ately earlier. 

The  winter  months  are  better  for  the  growth  of  flowers.  Very  few 
persons  in  Florida  attempt  to  grow  annuals  during  the  hot  and  usually 
dry  months  of  summer. 

It  seems  at  first,  to  the  garden  lover  from  the  north,  that  any  of 
the  northern  garden  flowers  should  grow  vigorously  in  the  Florida  cli- 
mate. Many  keen  disappointments  await  these  persons.  Those  who 
have  tried  growing  many  kinds  in  an  effort  to  obtain  garden  flower 
effects  and  flowers  for  table  use  have  finally  accepted,  as  the  reliable 
types,  the  few  that  are  starred  in  the  following  group: 


*Acalypha  hispida  *Dianthus  caryophyllus 
Chenille  Plant  Carnation 

Agave  Funkia  (north  only) 
Century  Plant  Plantain  Lily 

Ageratum  *Gaillardia  grandiflora 
Floss  Flower  Blanket  Flower 

*  Alyssum  (in  variety)  Gynerium  (north  only) 

Madwort  Pampas  Grass 

*  Aster  novae-angliae  Climax  Gypsophila  paniculata 

Blue  Hardy  Aster  Baby's  Breath 

Bambusa  (in  variety)  Hemerocallis  (north  only) 

Bamboo  Day  Lily 

Chrysanthemum  (north  only)  Hippeastrum 

Chrysanthemum  Amaryllis 

Clerodendron  squamatum  Iris  hexagona 

Chinese  Tube-flower  Florida  Iris 

Codiaeum  variegatum  (in  variety)  Lantana  (T) 

Croton  Lantana 

*Coreopsis  tinctoria  Lilium  henryi 

Tickseed  Yellow  Lily 

Cyperus  alternifolius  Limnocharis  humboldti 

Umbrella  Plant  Water  Poppy 


3io 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Nelumbo 

American  Lotus 
Nuphar 

Spatter-dock 
Nymphaea 

Water-lily 
*Phlox  drummondi 

Drummond's  Phlox 
Russelia  juncea 

Fountain  Plant 


*Tropaeolum  majus 

Nasturtium 
*  Verbena  hybrida 

Verbena 
Vinca 

Periwinkle 
Viola 

Violet 
*Yucca  filamentosa 

Adam's  Needle 


*Zinnia  elegans 
Zinnia 


J.  PLANTS  FOR  SEASHORE  PLANTING.  Peculiar  as  it  may  seem, 
along  the  shores  of  the  larger  lakes,  and  along  the  seashore  particularly, 
the  group  of  plants  which  can  be  used  is  restricted  to  those  plants  which 
are  particularly  adapted  to  light,  sandy  soils  and  also  to  withstand  the 
heavy  storms,  mostly  in  the  nature  of  wind  storms,  to  which  such 
plants  are  often  subjected. 


a.     Trees: 


Casuarina  equisetifolia 

Australian  Pine 
Coccoloba  unifera 

Shore  Grape 
Eucalyptus  citriodora 

Lemon  Gum 
Ficus  aurea 

Wild  Rubber 
Gliricidia  maculata 

Madre 


Ilex  opaca 
American  Holly 

Juniperus  barbadensis 
Red  Cedar 

Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Sweet  Gum 

Palms  (in  variety) 

Pithecolobium  dulce 
Manila  Tamarind 


Plumeria  (in  variety) 
Frangipani  Trees 


b.     Shrubs: 


Acacia  farnesiana 

Papinac 
Caesalpina  pulcherrima 

Barbadoes  Flower  Fence 
Callistemon 

Bottle-brush 
Carissa  acuminata 

Natal  Plum 
Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis 

Chinese  Hibiscus 
Ixora  (in  variety) 

Ixora 


Lagerstroemia  indica 

Crape  Myrtle 
Myrica  cerifera 

Bayberry 
Nerium  oleander 

Oleander 
Pittosporum  tobira 

Tobira  Shrub 
Tamarix  caspica 

Tamarisk 
Thevetia  nereifolia 

Trumpet  Flower 


EtaCnv. 


PLATE  XLIX.  In  the  selection  of  perennials  for  the  garden  not  only  should 
the  possibilities  of  interesting  colour  combinations  in  the  flower  effects  be  ob- 
served, but  also  the  possibilities  for  interesting  texture  of  foliage.  (A)  lark- 
spur; (B)  lemon  lily  (commonly  called  day  lily).  (See  page  231) 


•  .<.-•::    *  : 

. 


PLANTS  FOR  FLORIDA  311 

c.     Vines: 

Allamanda  Clerodendron  thompsonae 

Allamanda  Vine  Scarlet  Clerodendron 

Bignonia  unguis-cati  Cryptostegia  madagascariensis 

Argentine  Trumpet  Vine  Pink  Madagascar  Cryptostegia 

Bougainvillea  Solatium 

Paper  Flower  ^   Tomatillo 


CHAPTER  XLIV 
PLANTS  FOR  MINNESOTA 

THE  lists  given  in  this  chapter  cover  the  more  common  uses  for  which 
plants  are  selected.  Perennial  lists  are  not  given  because  perennial 
plantings  succeed  according  to  the  skill  of  the  grower  in  adapting 
them  to  his  location  and  giving  them  necessary  winter  protection. 
Constant  care  must  be  exercised  to  replace  winter  losses.  The 
discussion  in  the  main  part  of  the  foregoing  text  under  the  different 
lists  and  groups  of  plants  applies  equally  well  to  most  of  the  northern 
part  of  the  United  States,  including  Minnesota  and  adjoining 
territory. 

Throughout  this  region  spring  planting  is  preferable  to  autumn,  if  it 
is  done  early  enough,  except  of  course  for  peonies  and  irises.  In  es- 
pecially dry  autumn  weather  autumn-planted  stock  is  quite  likely  to 
prove  a  total  loss.  Ordinary  shrubs  and  trees  can  be  moved  in  the 
autumn  under  good  conditions  and  this  is  also  true  of  locally  grown 
conifers  moved  in  September;  but  other  plants,  and  especially  the 
perennials,  should  be  moved  only  in  the  spring.  Owing  to  the 
severity  of  the  climate,  especially  in  dry  winters,  sometimes  without 
snow  more  than  six  inches  deep,  there  is  little  tendency  to  encourage 
experimenting  with  half-hardy  stock  and  most  of  the  lists  given  are 
short. 

These  lists  apply  to  an  area  within  a  two-hundred-mile  radius  of  the 
Twin  Cities  in  every  direction.  In  eastern  Wisconsin  the  Great 
Lakes  would  temper  the  climate,  while  northern  Minnesota  would  be 
still  more  severe  than  at  the  Twin  Cities,  especially  on  sandy  pine 
soils.  Western  Minnesota  is  quite  similar,  but  a  little  more  subject  to 
drought  and  high  winds.  Central  Iowa  can  grow  a  slightly  larger 
list  of  plants  because  of  a  warmer  climate  and  perhaps  a  little  more 
rainfall. 

In  making  a  selection  of  plants  from  any  of  the  other  lists  in  this  book 
for  use  in  this  region,  first  consult  List  XLIV-G  to  eliminate  all  types 
which  have  proved  not  hardy.  The  other  lists  may  be  consulted  freely 

312 


PLANTS  FOR  MINNESOTA  313 

with  this  exception.     All  plants  of  questionable  hardiness  should  be 
carefully  protected. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  MINNESOTA 

A.  HEDGES.     Owing  to  the  severe  exposure  to  which  a  hedge  may 
be  subjected  only  small  groups  can  be  recommended  as  entirely  "iron- 
clad."    No  broad-leaved  evergreens  can  be  listed  and  only  the  most 
hardy  sorts  of  conifers,  among  them  being  the  Black  Hills  variety  of  the 
white  spruce,  given  here  as  pice  a  canadensis.      Early  spring-flowering 
shrubs  like  the  golden  bell  and  deutzia  are  not  hardy  and  none  of  the 
beeches  should  be  used  for  windbreaks  or  other  types  of  hedges.  Most 
of  the  other  plants  shown  in  Chapter  XII  can  be  planted  safely. 

a.  Barriers: 

Crataegus  coccinea  Picea  excelsa 

Scarlet-fruited  Thorn  Norway  Spruce 

Hippophae  rhamnoides  Rhamnus  cathartica 

Sea  Buckthorn  Common  Buckthorn 

Juniperus  virginiana  Ribes  alpinum 

Red  Cedar  Alpine  Currant 

Lonicera  tatarica  Ribes  oxycanthoides 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle  Wild  Gooseberry 

Picea  canadensis  Rosa  rugosa 

Black  Hills  Spruce  Japanese  Rose 

b.  Windbreaks: 

Acer  tataricum  Pinus  strobus 
Tartarian  Maple  White  Pine 

Picea  canadensis  Pinus  sylvestris 
Black  Hills  Spruce  Scotch  Pine 

Pinus  nigra  austriaca  Salix 
Austrian  Pine  Willow 

B.  GROUND  COVER.     No  evergreen  ground-cover  plants  seem  to 
prove  hardy  in  the  region  covered  by  this  list,  and  so  the  plants  given 
are  confined  to  deciduous  shrubs  and  vines.      Perennials  can  be  used 
in  proportion  to  the  winter  protection  provided  for  them. 

a.  Shrubs: 

Artemisia  sericea  Ribes  aureum 

Siberian  Wormwood  Flowering  Currant 

Comptonia  asplenifolia  Ribes  oxycanthoides 
Sweet  Fern  Wild  Gooseberry 


3H  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Rosa  arkansana  Spiraea  sorbifolia 

Arkansas  Rose  Sorb-leaved  Spirea 

Rubus  odoratus  Spiraea  tomentosa 

Flowering  Raspberry  Hardback 

Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 
Indian-currant 

b.     Vines: 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Lycium  halimifolium 
Virginia  Creeper  Matrimony  Vine 

Celastrus  scandens  Menispermum  canadense 
American  Bitter-sweet  Common  Moonseed 

C.  PLANTS   VALUABLE   FOR  AUTUMN  COLOURATION  OF  LEAVES. 
Only  plants  which  show  good  autumn  colour,  either  at  an  early  or 
medium  season,  prove  valuable  in  this  region  since  late  colour  is  in- 
variably destroyed  by  hard  freezes. 

a.  Early: 

Acer  negundo  Celtis  occidentalis 

Box  Elder  Nettle  Tree 

Acer  rubrum  Populus  eugenei 

Red  Maple  Carolina  Poplar 

Acer  saccharum  Rhus  typhina 

Sugar  Maple  Stagborn  Sumac 

Betula  lutea  Sassafras  officinale 

Yellow  Birch  Common  Sassafras 

b.  Medium: 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Quercus  rubra 
Virginia  Creeper  Red  Oak 

Berberis  thunbergi  Faccinium  corymbosum 
Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  High-busb  Blueberry 

Fraxinus  americana  Viburnum  acerifolium 
White  Ash  Maple-leaved  Viburnum 

D.  HEAVY,  FORMAL  EFFECTS.    Either  due  to  the  prevalence  of  ice 
storms  which  break  them  down  or  to  their  inherent  lack  of  hardiness, 
most  of  the  plants  which  are  elsewhere  available  for  heavy,  formal  effects 
are  not  available  in  this  region.    This  group  is  accordingly  a  small  one. 

Juniperus  virginiana  Picea  excelsa  pyramidalis 

Red  Cedar  Pyramidal  Norway  Spruce 

Juniperus  virginiana  glauca  Populus  alba  pyramidalis 

Blue  Virginia  Cedar  Bolle's  Poplar 

Populus  nigra  italica 
Lombardy  Poplar 


PLANTS  FOR  MINNESOTA  315 

E.  STREET  TREES.    The   group   of  trees   (a)   given    as   entirely 
hardy  is  interesting  for  the  following  reasons:  The  American  linden, 
here  substituted  for  the  European  linden — which  is  of  doubtful  hardi- 
ness— is  not  ordinarily  used  elsewhere  on  account  of  dropping  its  leaves 
in  late  summer  when  used  as  a  city  street  tree.     The  hackberry,  while 
a  native  of  the  major  part  of  the  United  States  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  does  not  succeed  well  enough  outside  of  the  northwestern 
portion  of  its  range  to  enable  listing  it  elsewhere  as  a  street  tree.     Its 
natural  habitat  is  rich,  moist  soil.     The  white  ash  is  a  handsome  orna- 
mental tree  native  of  the  eastern  United  States  and  not  nearly  often 
enough  used  as  a  street  tree. 

a.  Entirely  hardy  under  all  conditions: 

Acer  saceharum  Quercus  coccinea 

.     Sugar  Maple  Scarlet  Oak 

Celtis  occidentalis  Quercus  rubra 

Nettle  Tree  Red  Oak 

Fraxinus  americana  Tilia  americana 

White  Ash  American  Linden 
Ulmus  americana 
American  Elm 

b.  Which  should  be  selected  with  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  condi- 
tions under  which  they  are  to  be  used: 

Acer  sac  char  irturn  Populus  eugenei 
Soft  Maple  Carolina  Poplar 

Acer  platanoides  Pyrus  ioensis 
Norway  Maple  Western  Crab 

Setula  papyrifera  Sorbus  americana 

Paper  Birch  American  Mountain  Ash 

F.  EVERGREENS  MOST  USED.    The  group  of  conifers  most  used  in 
Minnesota  is  restricted  to  a  few  of  the  "ironclad"  sorts.     These  are 
all  native  species  and  when  used  the  following  notes  should  be  borne 
in  mind.     The  hemlock  is  not  naturally  adapted  to  windswept  places 
anywhere,  and  especially  not  in  this  region.     Of  the  white  fir  only  the 
Colorado  form  should  be  used,  and  while  this  plant  will  withstand 
considerable  heat  and  drought  it  is  intolerant  of  smoke  and  soot.     The 
arborvitae  suffers  frequently  from  ice  storms  and  should  be  protected 
from  them.     The  Douglas  spruce  is  one  of  the  fastest  if  not  the  fastest 


3i6  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

growing  conifer.     It  produces  a  soft  foliage  which  requires  that  it  be 
planted  in  groups  for  mutual  protection  against  strong  winds. 

Abies  concolor  Pinus  nigra  austriaca 

White  Fir  Austrian  Pine 

Juniperus  (in  variety)  Pinus  resinosa 

Cedar  Red  Pine 

Picea  alba  Pinus  strobus 

White  Spruce  White  Pine 

Picea  canadensis  Pinus  sylvestris 

Black  Hills  Spruce  Scotch  Pine 

Picea  excelsa  Pseudotsuga  douglasi 

Norway  Spruce  Douglas  Fir 

Picea  pungens  glauca  Thuja  occidentalis  (in  variety) 

Koster's  Blue  Spruce  American  Arborvitae 

Tsuga  canadensis 
Canadian  Hemlock 

G.  NOT  HARDY  IN  MINNESOTA.  The  following  group  contains 
plants  which  are  not  hardy  when  used  in  the  Minnesota  section.  These 
plants  are  generally  in  one  of  three  groups:  the  early  spring-flow- 
ering types,  the  broad-leaved  and  tender  evergreens,  and  those  which 
ripen  their  wood  late  in  the  fall.  As  a  result  of  years  of  experience  in 
landscape  planting,  these  types  have  not  proved  hardy,  although  many 
of  them  are  extremely  hardy  when  used  throughout  the  northwestern 
and  central  portions  of  the  United  States. 

Acer  palmatum  Cornus  florida 

Japanese  Maple  Flowering  Dogwood 

Akebia  quinata  Cornus  kousa 

Five-leaved  Akebia  Japanese  Dogwood 

Azalea  (in  variety)  Cornus  mas 

Azalea  Cornelian  Cherry 

Benzoin  aestivale  Deutzia  (in  variety) 

Spice  Bush  Deutzia 

Buxus  (in  variety)  Exochorda  (in  variety) 

Boxwood  Pearl  Bush 

Callicarpa  (in  variety)  Fagus  sylvatica 

Mulberry  European  Beech 

Catalpa  (in  variety)  Forsythia  (in  variety) 

Indian  Bean  Golden  Bell 

Cercis  canadensis  Halesia  tetraptera 

Red-bud  Silver  Bell  Tree 

Chamaecyparis  (in  variety)  Hibiscus  (in  variety) 

Japanese  Cypress  Rose  of  Sharon 

Clethra  alnifolia  Ilex  (except  verticillata) 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush  Holly 


PLANTS  FOR  MINNESOTA                         317 

Jasminum  (in  variety)  Magnolia  (in  variety) 

Jasmine  Magnolia 

Kalmia  (in  variety)  Mahonia  (in  variety) 

Laurel  Oregon  Grape 

Kerria  (in  variety)  Myrica  (in  variety) 

Globe-flower  Bay  berry 

Ligustrum  (most  varieties)  Prunus  (most  varieties) 

Privet  Flowering  Almonds  and  Cherries 

Lonicera  japonica  halliana  Rhododendron  (in  variety) 

Japanese  Honeysuckle  Rhododendron 
Taxus  (in  variety) 
Yew 


CHAPTER  XLV 
PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 

THE  territory  for  which  this  list  has  been  prepared  comprises  that 
lying  between  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  east  and  the  Appalachian  foot- 
hills or  Piedmont  on  the  west,  and  extending  from  Washington,  D.  C., 
to  Savannah,  Atlanta,  and  southern  Alabama.  This  territory  includes 
the  eastern  half  of  Virginia  and  of  North  Carolina,  nearly  all  of  South 
Carolina  and  of  Georgia  and  all  of  Alabama  lying  south  and  east  of 
Birmingham  (See  Plate  No.  II). 

Owing  to  the  influence  of  the  mountains  on  the  west  and  north, 
and  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  with  its  Gulf  Stream  on  the  east,  this 
territory  is  especially  favourable  for  the  growing  of  plants  which  would 
not  succeed  at  the  same  latitude  farther  inland.  This  territory  has  a 
high  annual  average  humidity  and  a  rainfall  of  50  to  60  inches  each 
year.  It  has  a  low  narrow  range  in  temperature — about  30  degrees — 
and  a  long  growing  season,  extending  from  one  hundred  and  eighty  days 
in  the  north  to  two  hundred  days  in  the  south.  All  of  these  factors  con- 
tribute to  the  successful  growth  of  many  somewhat  tender  plants  and 
in  some  cases  also  force  the  growth  of  northern  plants  to  a  great  size. 

The  most  that  can  be  done  under  present  conditions  with  a  list  of  this 
kind  and  until  such  time  as  further  information  is  compiled,  is  to  tabu- 
late some  of  the  more  important  types  of  plants  which  have  been  used 
throughout  this  southern  territory.  It  must  be  remembered  that  with 
the  much  longer  growing  season  and  the  higher  average  of  rainfall 
plants  will  grow  much  more  vigorously  and  much  larger  than  the 
same  plants  will  grow  throughout  the  northern  zones.  Plants  which 
may  be  adapted  to  a  certain  use  in  the  zones  farther  north  may  be  en- 
tirely inappropriate  for  a  similar  use  in  this  southern  territory.  For 
this  reason  intimate  knowledge  should  be  obtained  concerning  the 
growing  characteristics  of  any  types  that  are  to  be  introduced  into  the 
southern  conditions. 

Many  of  the  plants  adapted  for  use  in  the  northern  zones  will  readily 
produce  an  abnormal  growth  in  these  southern  zones  as  represented  by 

318 


PLATE  L.  A  few  water  lilies  may  enhance  a  picture  such  as  the  above, 
but  a  proper  restraint  on  their  use  and  control  is  always  desirable.  (See 
page  234,  group  XXXI-L-a) 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES  319 

the  south  Atlantic  states.  On  the  other  hand,  very  few  of  the  plants 
which  are  indigenous  to  this  south  Atlantic  area  will  prove  hardy  when 
used  in  the  territory  north  of  Washington.  For  instance,  Hall's 
climbing  honeysuckle  is  one  of  the  plants  common  to  both  the  northern 
zone  and  the  southern  zone,  but  in  the  southern  territory  this  plant 
produces  a  much  more  interesting  development  of  foliage  and  of  flowers 
while  in  the  northern  zones  the  same  plant  suffers  severely  from  winter- 
killing of  the  small  and  more  tender  portions  of  its  growth.  There  are 
a  few  of  our  desirable  northern  types,  such  as  lilacs,  which  adjust 
themselves  with  extreme  difficulty  to  the  changed  climatic  conditions. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  hydrangea  is  grown  with  remarkable  success 
in  the  south. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 

A.  GROUND  COVER.  This  group  of  plants  for  ground  cover  is  more 
restricted  than  the  group  including  plants  available  for  use  farther 
north.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  many  herbaceous  perennials  do  not 
succeed  in  the  long,  hot  summers  of  the  south. 

a.     Moist  places: 

Asarum  arifolium  Houstonia  serpyllifolia 

Mottled  Snakeroot  Creeping  Bluet 

Asarum  virginicum  Lysimachia  nummularia 

Virginia  Snakeroot  .  Moneywort 

Dalibarda  repens  Phlox  subulata 

Barren  Strawberry  Moss  Pink 

Evonymus  radicans  Sedum  nevi 

Climbing  Evonymus  Nevius'  Stonecrop 

Hedera  helix  Vinca  minor 

English  Ivy  Periwinkle 

Helonias  bullata  Viola  cornuta 

Swamp  Pink  Tufted  Pansy 

b.     Dry  places:    . 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  Coronilla  cappadocica 

Virginia  Creeper  Mediterranean  Crown  Vetch 

Ampelopsis  tricuspidata  veitchi  Coronilla  emerus 

Boston  Ivy  Scorpion  Senna 

Ceratiola  ericoides  Coronilla  varia 

Southern  Heather  European  Crown  Vetch 

Clematis  paniculata  Duchesnea  indica 

Japanese  Clematis  fellow  Strawberry 


320 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Iris  cristata 
Crested  Iris 

Lonicera  browni 

Brown's  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  heckrotti 

Purple-flowering  Honeysuckle 
Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

Japanese  Honeysuckle 
Opuntia  vulgaris 

Barberry  Fig 


Saxifraga  virginiensis 

Early-blooming  Saxifrage 
Shortia  galacifolia 

Shortia 
Vinca  major 

Trailing  Vinca 
Yucca  filamentosa 

Adam's  Needle 
Yucca  flaccida 

Drooping-leaved  Adam's  Needle 


B.  HEDGES.  The  following  groups  include  mostly  plants  which  are 
distinctive  in  this  region  or  are  not  available  for  use  farther  north. 
This  is  especially  true  of  the  evergreen  list. 


a.     Holding  leaves  throughout  winter: 

Abelia  chinensis 

Chinese  Abelia 
Abelia  floribunda 

Mexican  Abelia 
Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 
Abelia  triflora 

Himalayan  Abelia 
Acacia  armata 

Kangaroo  Thorn 
Azalea  amoena 

Hardy  Evergreen  Azalea 
Berberis  hakeoides 

Chilean  Barberry 
Buxus  (in  variety) 

Boxwood 
Buxus  sempervirens 

Tree  Box 
Buxus  suffruticosa 

Dwarf  Box 
Camellia  japonica 

Japonica 
Cedrus  deodara 

Deodar 
Chamaecypario 

Japanese  Cypress 
Cinnamomum  camphora 

Camphor  Tree 
Cotoneaster  rotundifolia  lanata 

Box-leaved  Cotoneaster 


Gardenia  jasminoides 
Cape  Jasmine 


Prunus  laurocerasus 
English  Laurel 


Ilex  aquifolium 

English  Holly 
Ilex  crenata 

Japanese  Holly 
Ilex  opaca 

American  Holly 
Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 
Libocedrus  decurrens 

Incense  Cedar 
Ligustrum  amurense 

Amoor  River  Privet 
Ligustrum  ibota 

Japanese  Privet 
Ligustrum  japonicum 

Evergreen  Privet 
Ligustrum  lucidum 

Shining-leaved  Privet 
Ligustrum  nepalense 

Nepaul  Privet 
Ligustrum  quihoui 

Late-blooming  Privet 
Ligustrum  sinense 

Chinese  Privet 
Osmanthus  aquifolium 

Fragrant  Olive 
Osmanthus  fragrans 

Sweet  Olive 
Pittosporum  tobira 

Tobira  Shrub 
Prunus  caroliniana 

Carolina  Laurel  Cherry 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES  321 

Pyracantha  coccinea  lalandi  Thuja  orientalis 

Evergreen  Thorn  Oriental  Arborvitae 

Thea  sinensis  Viburnum  tinus 

Tea  Plant  Laurestinus 
Yucca  filamentosa 
Adam's  Needle 


b.    Not  holding  leaves  throughout  winter: 

Acer  campestre  Deutzia  purpurasctns 

European  Cork  Maple  Purple-flowered  Deutzia 

Citrus  trifoliata  Hibiscus  syriacus 

Hardy  Orange  Rose  of  Sharon 

Deutzia  kalmiaeflora  Ligustrum  ovalifolium 

Pink-flowered  Hybrid  Deutzia  California  Privet 

Deutzia  longifolia  Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Long-leaved  Deutzia  Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 

Deutzia  myriantha  Prunus  americana 

White-flowered  Hybrid  Deutzia  Wild  Plum 

Rosa  rugosa 
Japanese  Rose 

C.  TREES  FOR  STREET  PLANTING.  This  group  comprises  only  those 
street  trees  which  are  most  likely  to  produce  the  best  results  under 
normal  conditions. 

Aesculus  indica  Gleditsia  jdponica 

Himalayan  Horse-chestnut  Japanese  Honey  Locust 

Aesculus  octandra  Gleditsia  sinensis 

Sweet  Buckeye  Chinese  Honey  Locust 

Aesculus  wilsoni  Liquidambar  styraciflua 

Wilson's  Chinese  Horse-chestnut  Sweet  Gum 

Ailanthus  glandulosa  Magnolia  acuminata 

Tree  of  Heaven  Cucumber  Tree 

Celtis  mississippiensis  Magnolia  grandiflora 

Southern  Hackberry  Magnolia 

Celtis  occidentalis  Magnolia  tripetala 

Nettle  Tree  Umbrella  Tree 

Celtis  sinensis  Nyssa  syhatica 

Chinese  Nettle  Tree  Tupelo 

Fraxinus  biltmoreana  Quercus  coccinea 

Biltmore  Ash  Scarlet  Oak 

Fraxinus  caroliniana  Quercus  imbricaria 

Water  Ash  Shingle  Oak 

Ginkgo  bUoba  Quercus  laurifolia 

Maidenhair  Tree  Laurel  Oak 

Gleditsia  delavayi  Quercus  nigra 

Long-spined  Honey  Locust  Water  Oak 


322  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Quercus  palustris  Quercus  rubra 

Pin  Oak  Red  Oak 

Quercus  phellos  Quercus  virginiana 

Willow  Oak  Live  Oak 
Ulmus  alata 
Winged  Elm 

D.  EVERGREENS  MOST  USED.     The  climate  of  the  south  Atlantic 
states  (Virginia,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Ala- 
bama) provides  an  opportunity  to  use  the  broad-leaved  evergreens  in 
great  profusion  as  well  as  certain  sorts  of  conifers  which  are  not  desir- 
able farther  north.     All  the  broad-leaved  evergreens  mentioned  else- 
where in  this  book  are  useful  in  this  region,  as  well  as  the  coniferous 
plants  named  below.     All  of  these  plants,  however,  with  the  exception 
of  the  junipers,  require  at  least  partial  shade  (See  Chapter  XXXIII). 
The  firs,   spruces,   hemlocks,  American   arborvitae,  and   Douglas  fir 
should  never  be  used  in  this  region  at  elevations  below  1,200  feet  above 
sea  level. 

Cedrus  atlantica  Chamacyparis  pisifera  filifera 

Mt.  Atlas  Cedar  Thread-branched  Cypress 

Cedrus  atlantica  glauca  Chanuecyparis  pisifera  plumosa 

Mt.  Atlas  Silver  Cedar  Plume-like  Cypress 

Cedrus  deodara  Cryptomeria  japonica  (in  variety) 

Deodar  Japanese  Cedar 

Cedrus  libani  Cupressus  sempervirens  fastigiata 

Cedar  of  Lebanon  Italian  Cypress 

Cephalotaxus  drupacea  Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 

Large-fruited  Yew  Blue  Virginia  Cedar 

Cephalotaxus  fortunei  Libocedrus  decurrens 

Fortune's  Yew  Incense  Cedar 

Chamaecyparis  ericoides  Pinus  excelsa 

Compact  White  Cedar  Bhotan  Pine 

Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana  Taxus  baccata  (in  variety) 

Lawson  s  Cypress  English  Yew 

Chamaecyparis  pisifera  Taxus  cuspidata  (in  variety) 

Pea-fruited  Cypress  Japanese  Yew 

Thuja  orientalis 
Oriental  Arborvitae 

E.  FORMAL  EFFECTS.    The  plants  in  this  group  are  mostly  trees 
of  a  compact,  upright  habit  of  growth,  and  are  useful  as  "exclamation 
points"  and  for  marking  axes  in  formal  gardens. 

Catalpa  bungei  Cephalotaxus  harringtoniana  fastigiata 

Round-leaved  Catalpa  Columnar  Stem-fruited  Yew 

Cedrus  deodara  Cercidiphyllum  japonicum 

Deodar  Kadsura  Tree 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 


32.3 


Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana 

Lawson  s  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  thyoides 

White  Cedar 
Cryptomeria  japonica  lobbi 

Lobb's  Cypress 
Cunninghamia  lanceolata 

Chinese  Cunninghamia 
Cupressus  sempervirens  fastigiata 

Italian  Cypress 
Hibiscus  syriacus 

Rose  of  Sharon 
Ilex  (in  variety) 

Holly 
Juniperus  chinensis 

Chinese  Juniper 
Juniperus  chinensis  albo-variegata 

Silver-tipped  Chinese  Juniper 
Juniperus  excelsa 

Greek  Juniper 


Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 

Blue  Virginia  Cedar 
Juniperus  virginiana  schoiti 

Schott's  Red  Cedar 
Laurocerasus  caroliniana 

Wild  Orange 
Libocedrus  decurrens 

Incense  Cedar 
Ligustrum  (in  variety) 

Privet 
Quercus  robur  pedunculata 

English  Oak 
Sciadopitys  verticillata 

Umbrella  Pine 
Taxodium  distichum 

Bald  Cypress 
Taxus  (in  variety) 

Yew 
Thuja  orientalis  pyramidalis 

Pyramidal  Oriental  Arborvitae 


F.  BORDER  PLANTING.  As  most  plants,  when  used  in  the  south 
Atlantic  states,  double  their  northern  height,  the  problem  is  to  find 
low-growers.  The  following  groups  have  thus  been  confined  to  low- 
growing  plants  (below  five  feet)  and  medium-growing  plants  (from 
five  to  ten  feet). 


a.     Low-growing  deciduous  shrubs: 

Amorpha  tennessensis 

Tennessee  False  Indigo 
Azalea  canescens 

Fragrant  Mountain  Azalea 
Azalea  gandavensis 

Ghent  Azalea 
Azalea  mollis 

Japanese  Azalea 
Azalea  nudiflora 

Pinkster  Flower 
Azalea  pontica 

Pontic  Azalea 
Azalea  vaseyi 

Carolina  Azalea 
Azalea  viscosa 

Swamp  Azalea 
Herberts  aristata 

Purple-fruited  Barberiy 
Berberis  canadensis 

Alleghany  Barberry 


Berberis  heteropoda 

Fragrant  Barberry 
Berberis  sieboldi 

Siebold's  Barberry 
Berberis  wilsonae 

Wilson's  Barberry 
Callicarpa  americana 

Beauty  Fruit 
Callicarpa  purpurea 

Beauty  Fruit 
Caryopteris  incana 

Blue  Spirea 
Ceanothus  hybridus 

Hybrid  New  Jersey  Tea ' 
Comptonia  asplenifolia 

Sweet  Fern 
Coronilla  emerus 

Scorpion  Senna 
Cnrylopsis  pauciflora 

Japanese  Flowering  Hazel 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Daphne  genkwa 

Lilac-flowered  Daphne 
Daphne  mezereum 

Caucasian  Daphne 
Dfutzia  gracilis 

Slender  Deutzia 
Elsholtzia  cristata 

Dwarf  Elsholtzia 
Fothergilla  gardeni 

Dwarf  Alder 
Fothergilla  parviflora 

Southern  Dwarf  Alder 
Hydrangea  opuloides  hortensia 

Garden  Hydrangea 
Hypericum  aureum 

Large-flowered  St.  John's  Wort 
Hypericum  ealycinum 

Aaron's  Beard 
Hypericum  glomeratum 

Mountain  St.  John's  Wort 
Hypericum  moserianum 

Gold-flower 
Hypericum  nudiflorum 

Naked-flowered  St.  John's  Wort 
Hypericum  prolificum 

Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort 

Zenobia  speciosa 
Zenobia 

b.    Low-growing  evergreen  shrubs: 

Abelia  floribunda 

Mexican  Abelia 
Ardisia  crenulata  rubra 

Ardisia 
Aucuba  japonica 

Japanese  Laurel 
Aucuba  japonica  latimaculata 

Spotted  Japanese  Laurel 
Azalea  amoena 

Hardy  Evergreen  Azalea 
Azalea  indica 

Indian  Azalea 
Azalea  indica  kaempferi 

Orange-flowered  Azalea 
Azalea  obtusa 

Hardy  Indian  Azalea 
Serberis  buxifolia 

Box-leaved  Barberry 
Berberis  darwini 

Darwin's  Barberry 


Jasminum  (in  variety) 

Jasmine 
Meratia  praecox 

Chinese  Sweet  Shrub 
Pieris  mariana 

Stagger  Bush 
Prunus  triloba 

Flowering  Plum 
Robinia  hispida 

Rose  Acacia 
Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 

Rosmarinus  officinalis 

Rosemary 
Salvia  greggi 

Mexican  Salvia 
Salvia  greggi  alba 

White  Mexican  Salvia 
Spiraea  bumalda  anthony  waterer 

Crimson  Spirea 
Stephanandra  fiexuosa 

Stephanandra 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Indian  Currant 


Berberis  ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Berberis  sargentiana 

Evergreen  Barberry 
Berberis  stenophylla 

Small-leaved  Barberry 
Buxus  japonica  aurea 

Golden  Japanese  Box 
Buxus  su/ruticosa     , 

Dwarf  Box  ?. 

Calluna  vulgaris 

Scotch  Heather 
Calluna  vulgaris  alba 

White-flowered  Heather 
Camellia  japonica 

Japonica 
Cleyera  ochnacea 

Cleyera 
Cotoneaster  dammeri 

Chinese  Prostrate  Cotoneaster 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 


325 


Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  microphylla 

Small-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  microphylla  gracilis 

Dwarf  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  rotundifolia 

Round-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  rotundifolia  lanata 

Box-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  thymifolia 

Thyme-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Daphne  cneorum 

Garland  Flower 
Elaeagnus  macrophylla 

Broad-leaved  Oleaster 
Gardenia  florida 
I     Cape  Jasmine 
Ilex  glabra 

Inkberry 

Yucca  gloriosa 
Late-flowering  Adam's  Needle 


Leiophyllum  buxifolium 

Sand  Myrtle 
Leucothoe  catesbaei 

Catesby's  Andromeda 
Mahonia  aquifolium 

Oregon  Grape 
Mahonia  repens 

Creeping  Mahonia 
Pieris  floribunda 

Mt.  Fetterbush  \ 
Pieris  japonica 

Japanese  Fetterbush 
Rhododendron  myrtifolium 

Myrtle-leaved  Rhododendron 
Rhododendron  p^unctatum 

Early-flowering  Rhododendron 
Yucca  filamentosa 

Adam's  Needle 
Yucca  glauca 

Early-flowering  Adam's  Needle 


c.     Medium-growing  deciduous  shrubs: 

Aronia  melanocarpa 

Black  Chokeberry 
Baccharis  halimifolia 

Groundsel  Bush 
Benzoin  aestivale 

Spice  Bush 
Buddleia  (in  variety) 

Summer  Lilac 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 
Calycanthus  occidentalis 

Western  Sweet-scented  Shrub 
Cassia  corymbosa 

Argentina  Senna 
Chaenomeles  sinensis 

.Chinese  Flowering  Quince 
Cistus  laurifolius 

Laurel-leaved  Rock  Rose 
Clethra  acuminata 

Mt.  Pepper  Bush 
Clethra  tomentosa 

Woolly-leaved  White  Alder 
Cornus  paucinervis 

Square-twigged  Dogwood 
Corylus  maxima  purpurea 

Purple-leaved  hazel 


Cotoneaster  acutifolia 

Pointed-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  multiflora 

Spanish  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  racemiflora 

Cotoneaster 
Cytisus  praecox 

Hybrid  Broom 
Cytisus  scoparius 

Scotch  Broom 
Deutzia  lemoinei 

Lemoine's  Deutzia 
Deutzia  rosea 

Dwarf  Pink  Deutzia 
Deutzia  scabra 

Single  White  Deutzia 
Dirca  palustris 

Leather-wood 
Elaeagnus  longipes 

Japanese  Oleaster 
Elaeagnus  parviflora 

Small-leaved  Silver  Thoin 
Elaeagnus  umbellata 

Japanese  Oleaster 
Fnrsythia  suspensa 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 


326 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Genista  tinctoria 

Dyer's  Greenweed 
Halimodendron  halodendron 

Salt  Tree 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora 

Large-flowered  Wild  Hydrangea 
Hydrangea  quercifolia 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 
Ite a  virginica 

Virginian  Willow 
Kerria  japonica 

Globe-flower 
Lespedeza  bicolor 

Shrubby  Bush  Clover 
Lespedeza  sieboldi 

Siebold's  Desmodium 
Lonicera  standishi 
•   Standish's  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Myrica  carolinensis 

Bay  berry 

d.     Medium-growing  evergreen  shrubs: 


Myrica  cerifera 

Bay  berry 
Myrica  gale 

Bayberry 
Myricaria  germanica 

German  Tamarisk 
Neviusia  alabamensis 

Snow  Wreath 
Prunus  triloba 

Flowering  Plum 
Spiraea  prunifolia 

Bridal  Wreath 
Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Styrax  americana 

American  Storax 
Styrax  japonica 

Japanese  Storax 
Styrax  obassia 

Broad-leaved  Storax 


Abelia  floribunda 

Mexican  Abelia 
Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 
Berberis  hakeoidts 

Chilean  Barberry 
Berberis  neuberti  latifolia 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Buxus  sempervirens  handworihi 

Handworth's  Tree  Box 
Cotoneaster  simonsi 

Himalayan  Rose  Box 
Elaeagnus  pungens 

Silver  Thorn 
Elaeagnus  pungens  variegata 

Variegated  Silver  Thorn 
Gardenia  jasminoides 

Cape  Jasmine 
Gardenia  jasminoides  fortuniana 

Fortune's  Cape  Jasmine 
Gardenia  jasminoides  veitchi 

Veitch's  Cape  Jasmine 
Ltrurus  nobilis 

Bay  Tree 
Ligustrum  coriaceum 

Round-leaved  Privet 
Mahonia  aquifolium 

Oregon  Grape 


Mahonia  fortunei 

Chinese  Mahonia 
Mahonia  japonica 

Japanese  Mahonia 
Mahonia  pinnata 

Southwestern  Mahonia 
Michelia  fuscata 

Banana  Shrub 
Myrtus  communis 

True  Myrtle 
Nandina  domestica 

Japanese  Nandina 
Pittospprum  tobira 

Tobira  Shrub 
Prunus  laurocerasus  schipkaensis 

Hardy  English  Laurel 
Raphiolepis  indica 

Indian  Hawthorn 
Rhododendron  arbutifolium 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 
Rhododendron  catawbiense  hybridum 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Rhododendron  ponticum 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 
Skimmia  japonica 

Japanese  Skimmia 
Viburnum  suspensum 

Pink  Snowball 
Viburnum  tinus 
Laurestinus 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES  327 

G.     FRUIT  VALUABLE  FOR  ITS  COLOUR  EFFECTS.     The  following 
plants  bear  fruit  which  makes  them  useful  for  ornamental  planting. 

The  group  comprises  mainly  those  species  which  are  better  adapted  to 
southern  conditions. 

Arbutus  unedo  Crataegus  vailat 

Strawberry  Tree  Vail's  Haw 

Ardisia  crenulata  Diospyros  virginiana 

Scallop-leaved  Ardisia  Persimmon 

Aucuba  japonica  Diospyros  kaki 

Japanese  Laurel  Persimmon 

Callicarpa  americana  Elaeagnus  multiflora 

Beauty  Fruit  Gumi 

Celastrus  (in  variety)  Elaeagnus  pungtns  maculata 

Bitter-sweet  Yellow-spotted  Oleaster 

Cleyera  japonica  Evonymus  bungeanus 

Himalayan  Cleyera  Bunge's  Spindle  Tree 

Coriaria  japonica  Ilex  (in  variety) 

Japanese  Coriaria  Holly 

Cornus  florida  Lonicera  (in  variety) 

Flowering  Dogwood  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Cotone aster  (in  variety)  Magnolia  grandiflora 

Rose  Box  Magnolia 

Cotoneaster  francheti  Magnolia  hypoleuca 

Franchet's  Rose  Box  Chinese  Purple  Magnolia 

Cotoneaster  frigida  Magnolia  tripetala 

Rose  Box  Umbrella  Tree 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis  Nandina  domestica 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster  Japanese  Nandina 

Cotoneaster  microphylla  Pyracantha  coccinea  lalandi 

Small-leaved  Cotoneaster  Evergreen  Thorn 

Cotoneaster  simonsi  Rosa  (in  variety) 

Himalayan  Rose  Box  Native  Rose 

Crataegus  collina  Taxus  baccata 

Round-fruited  Thorn  English  Yew 

H.  SPECIMEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.  The  following  groups  comprise 
only  plants  which  are  most  successful  when  used  singly  or  in  small 
groups. 


a.     Trees 


Albizzia  julibrissin  Aralia  spinosa 
Mimosa  Hercules  Club 

Aleurites  fordi  Broussonetia  papyrifera 
China  Wood-oil  Tree  Paper  Mulberry 

Aphananthe  aspera  Carya  aquatica 
Chinese  Hackberry  Water  Pecan 


328 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Carya  myristicaeformis 

Nutmeg  Hickory 
Carya  pecan 

Pecan 
Catalpa  bungei 

Round-leaved  Catalpa 
Cedrela  sinensis 

Chinese  Cedrela 
Cephalotaxus  fortunfi 

Fortune's  Yew 
Chilopsis  saligna 

Flowering  Willow 
Citrus  trifoliata 

Hardy  Orange 
Cladrastris  lutea 

Yellow-wood 
Cornus  florida 

Flowering  Dogwood 
Diosporos  virginiana 

Persimmon 
Fagus  americana 

American  Beech 
Fraxinus  americana  acuminata 

Silver-leaved  White  Ash 
Fraxinus  pennsylvanica 

Red  Ash 
Ginkgo  biloba 

Maidenhair  Tree 
Cleditsia  japonica 

Japanese  Honey  Locust 
Gleditsia  sinensis 

Chinese  Honey  Locust 

Gleditsia  triacanthos 
Honey  Locust 

Gymnocladus  dioica 
Kentucky  Coffee  Tree 

Halesia  Carolina 
Silver  Bell 

Hovenia  dulcis 
Japanese  Raisin  Tree 

Juglans  cinerea 
Butternut 

Juglans  sieboldiana 
Japanese  Walnut 

Koelreuteria  paniculata 
Varnish  Tree 

Liquidambar  stryaciflua 
Sweet  Gum 

Magnolia  (in  variety) 
Magnolia 


Magnolia  acuminata 
Cucumber  Tree 

Magnolia  denudata 

Yulan  Magnolia 
Magnolia  grandiflora 

Magnolia 
Magnolia  macrophylla 

Great-leaved  Magnolia 
Magnolia  soulangeana 

Soulange's  Magnolia 
Melia  azedarach  umbraculiformis 

Umbrella  Tree 
Nyssa  aquatica 

Cotton  Gum 
Nyssa  sylvatica 

Tupelo 
Oxydendrun  arboreum 

Sourwood 
Parkinsonia  aculeata 

Jerusalem  Thorn 
Paulownia  tomentosa 

Empress  Tree 
Photinia  arbutifolia 

Christmas  Berry 
Photinia  serrulata 

Evergreen  Photinia 
Populus  alba  pyramidalis 

Bolle's  Poplar 
Populus  deltoides 

Southern  Cottonwood 
Populus  deltoides  monilifera 

Northern  Cottonwood 

Prunus  cerasifera  pissardi 
Purple  Plum 

Pterocarya  fraxinifolia 
False  Walnut 

Pyrus  coronaria 
Wild  Crab 

Quercus  acuta 
Korean  Oak 

Quercus  falcata 
Spanish  Oak 

Quercus  laurifolia 
Laurel  Oak 

Quercus  muhlenbergi 
Yellow  Chestnut  Oak 

Quercus  nigra 
Water  Oak 

Quercus  pagodaefolia 
Swamp  Spanish  Oak 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES  329 

Sapium  pebiferum  Stereulia  platanifolia 

Chinese  Tallow  Tree  Japanese  Varnish  Tree 

Sophora  japonica  Taxodiumy  distichum 

Japanese  Pagoda  Tree  Bald  Copress 

Ulmus  montana  pendula 
Camperdown  Weeping  Elm 

b.     Shrubs: 

Aucuba  japonica  Ilex  opaca 

Japanese  Laurel  American  Holly 

iucuba  japonica  variegata  Lagerstroemia  indica 

Variegated  Japanese  Laurel  Crape  Myrtle 

Bambusa  (in  variety)  Nerium  oleander 

Bamboo  Oleander 

Buddleia  (in  variety)  Osmanthus  aquifolium 

Summer  Lilac  Fragrant  Olive 

Buxus  (in  variety)  Prunus  caroliniana 

Boxwood  Carolina  Laurel  Cherry 

Callicarpa  purpurea  Prunus  ilicifolia 

Beauty  Fruit  Evergreen  Cherry 

Camellia  japonica  Prunus  laurocerasus 

Japonica  English  Laurel 

Caryopteris  incana  Prunus  lyoni 

Blue  Spirea  Islands  Cherry 

Chilopsis  linearis  Rhus  cotinus 

Flowering  Willow  Smoke  Bush 

Chionanthus  virginica  Staphylea  pinnata 

White  Fringe  European  Bladder-nut 

Cornus  capitata  Staphylea  trifolia 

Himalayan  Dogwood  American  Bladder-nut 

Corylus  maxima  purpurea  Stewartia  pentagyna 

Purple-leaved  Hazel  Alleghany  Stewartia 

Exochorda  grandiflora  Styrax  japonica 

Pearl  Bush  Japanese  Storax 

Gardenia  (in  variety)  Viburnum  tinus 

Cape  Jasmine  Laurestinus 

Hydrangea  quercijolia  Vitex  agnus-castus 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea  Chaste  Tree 

I.    PERENNIALS  FOR  GARDENS  AND  CUT  FLOWERS.    The  following 
group  of  perennials  includes  several  plants,  such  as  the  gladiolus,  which 

are  not  hardy  in  the  open  ground  in  winter  in  the  north.     Most  of  the 

plants  are  the  same  sorts  which  are  used  elsewhere,  but  which  have 
been  selected  after  experience  has  shown  their  adaptability  to  the 
conditions  of  this  territory. 

Aconitum  (in  variety^  Alstroemeria  chilensis 

Monkshood  Chilean  Lily 

Adonis  vernalis  Alyssum  (in  variety) 

Pheasant's  Eye  Golden  Tuft 


330 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Anchusa  (in  variety) 

Alkanet 
Anemone  coronaria 

Poppy-flowered  Anemone 
Anthemis  tinctoria  kelwayi 

Hardy  Marguerite 
Antirrhinum  majus 

Snapdragon 
Aquilegia  (in  variety) 

Columbine 
Argemone  (in  variety) 

Prickly  Poppy 
Artemisia  (in  variety) 

Wormwood 
Asclepias  tuberosa 

Butterfly  Weed 
Baptisia  (in  variety) 

False  Indigo 
Dahlia  (in  variety) 

Garden  Dahlia 
Delphinium  (in  variety) 

Larkspur 
Echinops  (in  variety) 

Globe  Thistle 
Eryngium  amethystinum 

Amethyst  Sea  Holly 
Eupatorium  (in  variety) 

White  Snakeroot 
Filipendula  hexapetala 

Herbaceous  Meadow-sweet 
Funkia  (in  variety) 

Plantain  Lily 
Gaittardia  (in  variety) 

Blanket  Flower 
Gladiolus  (in  variety) 

Sword  Flower 
Gypsophila  (in  variety) 

Chalk  Plant 
Helenium  (in  variety) 

Sneezeweed 
Helianthemum  (in  variety) 

Rock  Rose 
Helianthus  (in  variety) 

Hardy  Perennial  Sun-flower 


Hesperis  matronalis 

Sweet  Rocket 
Heuchera  sanguinea 

Coral-bells 
Jncarvillea  delevayi 

Hardy  Gloxinea 
Iris  (in  variety) 

Iris 
Kniphofia  uvaria 

Red-hot  Poker  Plant 
Lithospermum  canescens 

Indian  Paint 
Lobelia  (in  variety) 

Lobelia 
Lychnis  coronaria 

Mullein  Pink 
Oenothera  (in  variety) 

Evening  Primrose 
Paeonia  officinalis 

Old-fashioned  Peony 
Paeonia  suffruticosa 

Tree  Peony 
Paeonia  tenuifolia 

Fennel-leaved  Peony 
Phlox  (in  variety) 

Garden  Phlox 

Platycodon  grandiflorum 

Balloon  Flower 
Polemonium  caeruleum 

American  Jacob's  Ladder 
Polemonium  reptans 

Greek  Valerian 
Primula  (in  variety) 

Primrose 
Pyrethrum  coccineum 

Painted  Daisy 
Salvia  (in  variety) 

Sage 
Thalictrum  (in  variety) 

Meadow-rue 
Veronica  (in  variety) 

Speedwell 
Viola  (in  variety) 

Violet 


J.  PERENNIALS  FOR  NATURALIZING  IN  WILD  GARDENS.  The 
plants  in  this  group  are  common  sorts  which  after  trial  have  proven 
adaptable  and  useful  for  naturalizing  in  this  territory.  This  group 
could  be  considerably  enlarged;  but  the  species  named  will  fill  most 
of  the  requirements  of  ordinary  planting  schemes. 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 


Actaea  (in  variety) 

Baneberry 
Adiantum  pedatum 

Maidenhair  Fern 
Allium  moly 

Lily  Leek 
Althaea  officinalis 

Marsh  Mallow 
Amorpha  (in  variety) 

False  Indigo 
Arabis  (in  variety) 

Rock  Cress 
Armeria  (in  variety) 

Sea  Thrift 
Belamcanda  chinensis 

Blackberry  Lily 
Centranthus  rubtr 

Red  Valerian 
Cimicifuga  racemosa 

Snakeroot 
Dalibarda  repens 

Barren  Strawberry 
Dentaria  dip  hy II a 

Two-leaved  Toothwort 
Erytkronium  americanum 

Adder's  tongue 


Fragaria  (in  variety) 

Wild  Strawberry 
Frittilaria  meleagris 

Guinea-hen  Flower 
Galanthus  nivalis 

Common  Snowdrop 
Galax  aphylla 

Galax 
Habenaria  ciliaris 

Yellow-fringed  Orchis 
Liatris  pycnostachya 

Blazing  Star 
Lilium  (in  variety) 

Lily 
Mertensia  virginica 

Bluebell 
Monarda  (in  variety) 

Bergamot 
Narcissus  (in  variety) 

Daffodil  and  Narcissus 
Saxifraga  (in  variety) 

Stone-breaker 
Sedum  (in  variety) 

Stonecrop 
Shortia  galacifolia 

Shortia 


K.  PLANTS  WHICH  ARE  COMMONLY  AND  FREELY  USED  IN  THE 
SOUTH  BUT  ARE  NOT  HARDY  FARTHER  NORTH.  This  group  comprises 
trees  and  shrubs  which  are  valuable  and  may  be  used  in  the  south  with 
safety,  but  which  are  not  hardy  in  the  north. 


a.     Trees: 


Albizzia  julibrissin 

Mimosa 
Aleurites  fordi 

China  Wood-oil  Tree 
Cedrus  atlantica 

Mt.  Atlas  Cedar 
Cedrus  deodara 

Deodar 
Cedrus  libani 

Cedar  of  Lebanon 
Libocedrus  decurrens 

Incense  Cedar 
Magnolia  grandiflora 

Magnolia 


Melia  azedarach,  umbraculiformis 

Umbrella  Tree 
Quercus  acuta 

Korean  Oak 
Quercus  laurifolia 

Laurel  Oak 
Quercus  nigra 

Water  Oak 
Quercus  phellos 

Willow  Oak 
Sophora  japonica 

Japanese  Pagoda  Tree 
Stfrculia  platanifolia 

Japanese  Varnish  Tree 


332  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

b.     Shrubs: 

Arbutus  unedo  Ligustrum  lucidum 

Strawberry  Tree  Shining-leaved  Privet 

Ardisia  crenulata  Ligustrum  nepalense 

Scallop-leaved  Ardisia  Nepaul  Privet 

Aujcuba  japonica  Ligustrum  quihoui 

Japanese  Laurel  Late-blooming  Privet 

Berberis  hakeoides  Ligustrum  sinense 

Chilean  Barberry  Chinese  Privet 

Cassia  corymbosa  Michelia  fuscata 

Argentine  Senna  Banana  Shrub 

Chilopsis  linearis  Nandina  domestica 

Flowering  Willow  Japanese  Nandina 

Cleyera  japonica  Pittosporum  tobira 

Himalayan  Cleyera  Tobira  Shrub 

Gardenia  florida  Prunus  caroliniana 

Cape  Jasmine  Carolina  Laurel  Cherry 

Jasminum  primulinum  Prunus  laurocerasus 

Jasmine  English  Laurel 

Lagerstroemia  indica  The  a  sinensis 

Crape  Myrtle  Tea  Plant 
Fiburnum  tinus 
Laurestinus 


L.  VINES  FOR  THE  SOUTH.  There  is  an  extensive  group  of  vines 
which  can  be  used  throughout  the  far  south.  Many  of  the  vines  so 
common  to  the  north  are  extremely  valuable  because  of  their  added 

growth  during  the  longer  growing  season  and  their  luxuriant  foliage 
effects. 

Actinidia  chinensis  Clematis  apiifolia 

Chinese  Silver  Vine  Parsley-leaved  Clematis 

Antigonon  leptopus                 .  Clematis  crispa 

Mountain  Rose                   »  Purple  Clematis 

Berchemia  racemosa  Clematis  flammula 

Supple-jack  Sweet  Clematis 

Berchemia  scandens  Clematis  texensis 

Supple-jack  Texas  Clematis 

Bignonia  capreolata  Clematis  viorna 

Cross  Flower  Leather-flower 

Bignonia  chinensis  Clematis  virginiana 

Chinese  Trumpet  Creeper  Wild  Clematis 

Bignonia  hybrida  Ficus  pumUa 

Hybrid  Trumpet  Creeper  Climbing  Fig 

Bignonia  radicans  Gelsemium  sempervirens 

Trumpet  Vine  Carolina  Yellow  Jasmine 

Celastrus  angulatus  Gelsemium  sempervirens  flore  plenc 

Chinese  Bitter-sweet  Double  Yellow  Jasmine 


PLANTS  FOR  SOUTH  ATLANTIC  STATES 


333 


Hedera  canariensis 

Algerian  Ivy 
Hedera  helix 

English  Ivy 

Humulus  lupulus 
Hop  Vine 

Hydrangea  petiolaris 
Climbing  Hydrangea 

Jasminum  officinale 
Jasmine 

Jasminum  primulinum 
Jasmine 

Menispermum  canadense 
Common  Moonseed 

Parthenocissus  henryana 
Henry's  Ivy 


Passiflora  caerulea 

Passion-flower 
Periploca  graeca 

Silk  Vine 

Pohgonum  baldschuanieum 

Knotweed 
Pueraria  hirsuta 

Kudzu  Vine 
Pyrostegia  venusta 

Flame  Flower 
Smilax  lanceolata 

Florida  Smilax 

Solanum  jasminoides  grandiftorumi 

Jerusalem  Cherry  Vine 
Trachelospermum  jasminoides 

Confederate  Jasmine 


CHAPTER  XLVI 

PLANTS  FOR  USE  ON  THE  OREGON  AND  WASHING- 
TON COASTAL  PLAIN 

THE  planting  districts  in  the  northwest  are  very  sharply  defined. 
They  include  (i)  the  West  Slope;  that  is,  between  the  coast  and  the 
mountains,  or  west  of  the  Cascade  Range,  and  (2)  eastern  and  central 
Oregon  and  eastern  Washington;  that  is,  all  of  the  district  sometimes 
spoken  of  as  the  Inland  Empire  where  conditions  show  very  marked 
changes.  The  following  lists  of  plants  apply  only  to  (i),  this  being 
all  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Cascade  Range  exclusive  of  the  mountain 
slopes  and  known  as  the  Oregon  and  Washington  Coastal  Plain.  No 
effort  has  been  made  to  compile  lists  for  (2)  known  as  the  Inland  Em- 
pire. There  the  rainfall  is  very  much  lighter,  more  snow  falls  in  the 
winter,  and  much  hotter  days  prevail  in  the  summer,  although  the 
nights  are  always  cool. 

There  is  also  another  separate  district  spoken  of  as  southern  Oregon. 
The  elevation  here  is  from  one  thousand  to  eighteen  hundred  feet,  with 
conditions  much  drier  than  through  the  Willamette  Valley  and  all 
through  western  Washington.  The  factor  in  southern  Oregon  which 
appears  to  control  plant  growth  is  water,  and  if  one  has  plenty  of  that 
coupled  with  a  reasonable  amount  of  good  soil,  normal  growth  can  be 
developed. 

Even  in  western  Washington  and  Oregon  the  days  are  fairly  warm 
and  the  nights  in  most  cases  are  cool.  This  condition  makes  itself 
felt  very  much  in  the  growth  of  annual  vines,  because  they  do  not  like 
the  cool  nights. 

This  entire  western  country  appears  to  be  the  natural  home  for 
coniferous  evergreens  and  for  most  of  the  broad-leaved  evergreens. 
They  do  wonderfully  well  all  through  the  northwest,  west  of  the 
mountains.  Portland  has  become  known  as  the  Rose  City.  It  has 
found  one  particular  thing,  however,  that  is  not  proving  a  success.  The 
camellia  has  been  largely  planted  and  is  generally  proving  more  or  less 
disappointing.  The  mountain  laurel  should  probably  be  placed  in  the 

334 


OREGON  AND  WASHINGTON  COASTAL  PLAIN      335 

same  class.     It  does  not  appear  to  do  well  and  yet  rhododendrons 
planted  under  exactly  the  same  conditions  thrive. 

This  section  of  the  country  is  still  on  the  uncharted  list  so  far  as 
complete  information  covering  the  lists  of  plants  that  are  adapted  to 
this  territory  is  concerned.  In  addition  to  those  plants  which  are 
tabulated  in  the  following  lists  there  is  a  wide  range  of  plants  which 
can  be  selected  from  the  main  text  of  this  book,  practically  all  of  which 
plants  are  adapted  for  use  in  this  territory. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  USE  ON  THE  OREGON  AND  WASH- 
INGTON COASTAL  PLAIN 

A.  HEDGES.  This  group  is  divided  into  deciduous  and  evergreen 
plants.  It  is  noteworthy  by  reason  of  the  fact  that  there  are  more 
broad-leaved  plants  than  deciduous  ones.  This  is  not  the  case  in  other 
portions  of  the  country,  except  possibly  in  the  far  south. 

a.     Deciduous: 

Berberis  thunbergi  Ligustrum  ibota 
Thunberg's  Japanese  Barberry  Japanese  Privet 

Chaenomeles  japonica  Ligustrum  ovalifolium 
Japanese  Quince  California  Privet 

Crataegus  oxycantka  Ligustrum  vulgare 
May  Thorn  European  Privet 


b.     Evergreen: 

Aucuba  japonica  Picea  excelsa 

Japanese  Laurel  Norway  Spruce 

Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana  Prunus  laurocerasus 

Lawson's  Cypress  English  Laurel 

Ilex  aquifolium  Prunus  lusitanica 

English  Holly  Portugese  Laurel 

Ilex  crenata  Pyracantha  coccinea 

Japanese  Holly  Evergreen  Thorn 

Mahonia  aquifolium  Ulex  europ&us 

Oregon  Grape  Gorse 

Viburnum  tinus 
Laurestinus 

B.     PLANTS  FOR  GROUND  COVER.     Practically  all  of  these  ground- 
coyer  plants  are  evergreen  in  character;  both  those  adapted  to  the  open 


336 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


sun  and  those  given  for  use  in  the  shade.     No  attempt  has  been  made 
to  name  the  herbaceous  perennials  suitable  for  this  purpose. 


a.    Open  sun: 

Arctostaphylos  uva-ursi 

Bearberry 
Iberis  sempervirens 

Evergreen  Candytuft 


b.     Shade: 

Evonymus  radicans 
Climbing  Evonymus 

Gaultheria  shallon 
Salal 

Hedera  helix 
English  Ivy 


Pachysandra  terminalis 

Japanese  Spurge 
Phlox  subulata 

Moss  Pink 
Saxifraga  cordifolia 
Saxifrage 


Lonicera  japonica  halliana 
Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Pachysandra  terminalis 
Japanese  Spurge 

Vinca  minor 
Periwinkle 


C.  PLANTS  FOR  BORDER  PLANTING.  The  shrubs  and  trees  given 
in  the  group  for  refined  lawn  masses  are  confined  largely  to  those  sorts 
which  are  not  generally  available  throughout  the  east  for  border  plant- 
ing by  reason  of  their  soil  and  moisture  requirements.  The  native 
collected  plants  are  very  similar  to  the  same  sort  of  material  found 
throughout  the  northern  central  states. 


a.     Refined  lawn  masses: 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 
Acer  palmatum 

Japanese  Maple 
Azalea  hinodigiri 

Crimson  Evergreen  Azalea 
Azalea  indica 

Indian  Azalea 
Berberis  buxifolia 

Box-leaved  Barberry 

Berberis  darwini 

Darwin's  Barberry 
Berberis  ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Cattuna  vulgaris 

Scotch  Heather 
Cornus  mas 

Cornelian  Cherry 


Cornus  paniculata 

Grey  Dogwood 
Cotoneaster  francheti 

Franchet's  Rose  Box 
Cotoneaster  simonsi 

Himalayan  Rose  Box 
Deutzia  gracilis 

Slender  Deutzia 
Diervilla  hybrida 

Hybrid  Weigela 
Enkianthus  perulatus 

Enkianthus 
Erica  mediterranea 

Pink  Heather 
Forsythia  suspensa  fortunei 

Fortune's  Golden  Bell 
Lonicera  maacki 

Late-blooming  Honeysuckle 


OREGON  AND  WASHINGTON  COASTAL  PLAIN       337 


Philadelphus  lemoinei 
Lemoine's  Mock  Orange 

Pieris  floribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 

Prunus  triloba 
Flowering  Plum 


Spiraea  vanhouttei 

Van  Houtte's  Bridal  Wreath 
Syringa  vulgaris  hybrida 

Hybrid  Lilac 
Viburnum  carlesi 

Korean  Viburnum 


b.    Native  and  collected  plants: 

Acer  circinatum 

Vine  Maple 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 
Clethra  alnifolia 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush 
Cornus  nuttalli 

Oregon  Dogwood 
Cornus  stolonifera 

Red  Osier  Cornel 
Elaeagnus  angustifolia 

Russian  Olive 
Holodiscus  discolor  ariaefolius 

Ocean  Spray 


Philadelphus  lewisi 

Native  Mock  Orange 
Rhus  glabra 

Smooth  Sumac 
Rosa  blanda 

Meadow  Rose 
Rosa  lucida 

Glossy  Rose 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 

Snowberry 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 

Indian  Currant 
Viburnum  americanum 

American  High-bush  Cranberry 


D.  STREET  AND  AVENUE  PLANTING.  This  group  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Oregon  maple  and  the  thornless  locust  is  practically  identi- 
cal with  a  similar  group  for  any  portion  of  the  northern  and  eastern 
states. 


Acer  macrophyllum 

Oregon  Maple 
Acer  platanoides 

Norway  Maple 
Acer  pseudoplatanus 

Sycamore  Maple 
Aesculus  hippocastanum  rubicunda 

Red  Flowering  Horse-chestnut 
Fraxinus  americana 

White  Ash 


Platanus  orientalis 

Oriental  Plane 
Quercus  coccinea 

Scarlet  Oak 
Robinia  pseudacacia  bessoniana 

Thornless  Locust 
Tilia  euchlora 

Crimean  Linden 
Ulmus  americana 

American  Elm 


E.  PLANTS  FOR  HEAVILY  SHADED  LOCATIONS.  This  group  con- 
tains only  plants  native  to  this  portion  of  the  country  and  some  of  the 
better  known  plants  given  in  previous  lists. 


Abies  balsamea 

Balsam  Fir 
Calycanthus  floridus 

Strawberry  Shrub 


Chaenomeles jafonica 
Japanese  Quince 

Gaultheria  shallon 
Sahl 


338  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Lonictra  morrowi  Philadelphus  lewisi 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle  Native  Mock  Orange 

Mahonia  nervosa  Pinus  strobus 

Dwarf  Oregon  Grape  White  Pine 

Philadelphus  gordonianus  Sambucus  canadensis 

Gordon's  Mock  Orange  American  Elder 

Tsuga  canadensis 
Canadian  Hemlock 

F.  PLANTS   VALUABLE  FOR  AUTUMN  COLOURATION   OF  LEAVES. 
The  plants  in  this  group  are  selected  for  their  use  to  furnish  colour  in 
the  landscape  in  autumn  and  special  attention  is  called  to  the  vine 
maple  and  Oregon  dogwood  which  are  not  available  in  other  sections 
of  the  country. 

Acer  circinatum  Cornus  nuttalli 

Vine  Maple  Oregon  Dogwood 

Acer  ginnala  Evonymus  alatus 

Siberian  Maple  Cork-barked  Burning  Bush 

Acer  rubrum  Ligustrum  amurense 

Red  Maple  Amoor  River  Privet 

Betula  alba  Quercus  coccinea 

European  White  Birch  Scarlet  Oak 

Betula  lenta  Rhus  glabra 

Black  Birch  Smooth  Sumac 

Berberis  thunbergi  Stephanandra  flexuosa 

Japanese  Barberry  Stephanandra 

Berberis  wilsonae  Tilia  vulgaris 

Wilson's  Barberry  Common  Linden 

G.  VINES.     This   group   of  vines    is  very   similar  to  the  group 
previously  given  and  shows  the  large  number  of  species  which  are 
available  in  this  territory. 

Ampelopsis  engelmanni  Evonymus  radicans 

Englemann's  Ampelopsis  Climbing  Evonymus 

Ampelopsis  tricuspidata  veitchi  Hedera  helix 

Boston  Ivy  English  Ivy 

Bignonia  radicans  Jasminum  nudiflorum 

Trumpet  Vine  Naked-flowered  Jasmine 

Celastrus  orbiculatus  Jasminum  primulinum 

Japanese  Bitter-sweet  New  Chinese  Jasmine 

Clematis  montana  Lonicera  japonica  halliana 

White  Clematis  Japanese  Honeysuckle 

Clematis  montana  rubra  Lonicera  periclymenum  belgica 

Red  Clematis  Dutch  Honeysuckle 

Clematis  paniculata  Polygonum  baldschuanicum 

Japanese  Clematis  Ivnotweed 


OREGON  AND  WASHINGTON  COASTAL  PLAIN      339 


Pueraria  thunbergiana 
Kudzu  Vine 


Wisteria  sinensis 
Chinese  Wisteria 


Wisteria  multijuga 
Japanese  Wisteria 


H.  EVERGREENS  MOST  USED.  Among  the  plants  grouped  here 
will  be  found  many  coniferous  and  broad-leaved  evergreens  which  it  is 
not  safe  to  use  as  far  north  as  this  in  any  other  portion  of  the  United 
States.  Among  these,  in  particular,  are  the  cedar  of  Lebanon,  Lawson's 
cypress,  yellow  cypress,  hybrid  abelia,  and  Portugese  and  English 
laurels. 


a.     Conifers: 

Abies  concolor 

White  Fir 
Abies  grandis 

Silver  Fir 
Abies  nobilis 

Red  Fir 
Cedrus  atlantica 

Mt.  Atlas  Cedar 
Cedrus  deodora 

Deodar 
Cedrus  libani 

Cedar  of  Lebanon 
Chamaecyparis  lawsoniana 

Lawson's  Cypress 
Chamaecyparis  nootkatensis 

Yellow  Cedar 
Picea  engelmanni 

Engelmann's  Spruce 
Picca  sitchensis 

Sitka  Spruce 
Pinus  attenuata^ 

Knot-cone  Pine 
Pinus  contorta 

Oregon  Pine 


Pinus  monticola 

Mountain  White  Pine 
Pinus  nigra  austriaca 

Austrian  Pine 
Pinus  ponderosa 

Bull  Pine 
Pinus  radiata 

Monterey  Pine 
Pinus  strobus 

White  Pine 
Pinus  sylvestris 

Scotch  Pine 
Pseudotsuga  douglasi 

Douglas  Fir 

Chamaecyparis  (all  species) 

Japanese  Cypress 
Taxus  baccata 

English  Yew 
Taxus  baccata  fastigiata 

Irish  Yew 
Taxus  brevifolia 

Western  Yew 
Tsuga  heterophylla 

Western  Hemlock 


b.     Broad-leaved: 

Abelia  grandiflora 
Hybrid  Abelia 

Arbutus  menziesi 
Madrona 

Aucuba  japonica 
Japanese  Laurel 


Berberis  buxifolia 
Box-leaved  Barberry 

Berberis  ilicifolia 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 

Berberis  stenophylla 
Small-leaved  Barberry 


340 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


Cotoneaster  francheti 

Franchet  s  Rose  Box 
Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

Prostrate  Cotoneaster 
Cotoneaster  microphylla 

Small-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Ilex  aquifolium 

English  Holly 
Ilex  crenata 

Japanese  Holly 
Ligustrum  japonicum 

Evergreen  Privet 


Osmanthus  aquifolium 

Fragrant  Olive 
Photinia  glabra 

Japanese  Photinia 
Pieris  fioribunda 

Mountain  Fetterbush 
Prunus  laurocerasus 

English  Laurel 
Prunus  lusitanica 

Portuguese  Laurel 
Rhododendron  catawbiense  hybridum 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

THE  following  is  a  compilation  of  the  more  important  practical  books  on 
various  subjects  relating  to  landscape  plantings  and  of  interest  to  the  gar- 
dener and  to  the  owner  of  private  estates.  An  effort  has  been  made  to  in- 
clude a  reference  list  of  some  of  the  more  important  articles  which  have 
appeared  from  time  to  time  in  different  magazines,  as  discussions  on  these  sub- 
jects. An  attempt  has  been  made  in  compiling  this  list  of  references  not  to 
cover  the  entire  field  of  literature  written  on  these  subjects,  but  to  include 
only  a  sufficient  number  of  books  of  real  value  from  which  information  can  be 
readily  obtained. 

The  author  does  not  wish  to  imply  that  there  are  not  many  other  interest- 
ing publications  pertaining  to  this  subject  matter.  It  is  imperative,  however, 
that  this  list  should  not  become  overburdened,  and  yet,  if  references  have 
been  omitted  which  should  have  been  included,  any  suggestions  or  corrections 
will  be  welcome. 

BOOKS 
Botany 

Manual  of  the  Flora  of  the  Northern  States  and  Canada,  by  N.  L. 

Britton. 

Field,  Forest  and  Garden  Botany,  by  Asa  Gray. 
Official  Catalog  of  Plant  Names,  by  American  Joint  Committee  on 
Horticultural  Nomenclature. 

Bulbs 

Daffodils,  by  Joseph  Jacob. 

The  Bulb  Book,  by  John  Weathers. 

Bulb  Culture,  by  Henderson. 

Bulb  Garden,  by  Grace  Tabor. 

The  Book  of  Bulbs,  by  S.  Arnott. 

Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants,  by  C.  L.  Allen. 

Daffodils,  Narcissus,  and  How  to  Grow  Them,  by  M.  Kirby. 

Tulips,  by  Joseph  Jacob. 

Evergreens  and  Rhododendrons 

Evergreens  and  How  to  Grow  Them,  by  C.  L.  Harrison. 

The  Rhododendron  and  American  Plants,  by  E.  S.  Rand,  Jr. 

Handy  Book  of  Ornamental  Conifers  and  Rhododendrons,  by  H. 

Fraser. 

Hedges  and  Evergreens,  by  J.  A.  Warder. 
Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas,  by  Wm.  Watson. 

343 


344  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Flower  Gardens  (Perennials  and  Annuals) 

The  Book  of  Perennials,  by  H.  H.  Saylor. 

The  Book  of  Annuals,  by  H.  H.  Saylor. 

Color  Schemes  in  the  Flower  Garden,  by  Gertrude  Jekyll. 

The  Flower  Garden,  by  Ida  Bennett. 

The  American  Flower  Garden,  by  Neltje  Blanchan. 

The  English  Flower  Garden,  by  W.  Robinson. 

Flower  Gardening,  by  H.  S.  Adams. 

Familiar  Flowers  of  Field  and  Garden,  by  F.  S.  Matthews. 

Color  in  My  Garden,  by  Louise  B.  Wilder. 

Irises,  by  W.  R.  Dykes. 

The  Book  of  the  Peony,  by  Mrs.  Edward  Harding. 

Our  Garden  Flowers,  by  Harriet  L.  Keeler. 

The  Garden,  Month  by  Month,  by  Mabel  Sedgwick. 

Flower  Gardens — A  Selected  List  of  Books,  The  New  York  Public 

Library  (January,  1915). 
The  Garden  Blue  Book,  by  L.  B.  Holland. 
Popular  Garden  Flowers,  by  Walter  Page  Wright. 
Garden  Flowers  of  Spring,  Summer,  Autumn,  and  Winter,  by  Ellen  E. 

Shaw,  edited  by  Leonard  Barren. 

Forestry 

Forest  Mensuration,  by  H.  S.  Graves. 

Foresters'  Manual,  by  E.  T.  Seton. 

Principles  of  American  Forestry,  by  S.  B.  Green. 

Practical  Forestry,  by  John  Gifford. 

Practical  Forestry,  by  Andrew  S.  Fuller. 

Principles  of  Handling  Woodlands,  by  H.  S.  Graves. 

A  List  of  Books  on  Trees  and  Forestry,  Boston  Public  Library,  1899. 

Garden  Architecture 

The  Practical  Book  of  Garden  Architecture,  by  Phoebe  W.  Humphrey. 
The  Book  of  Garden  Furniture,  by  Charles  Thonger. 
Garden  Ornaments,  by  Gertrude  Jekyll. 
Italian  Gardens,  by  Inigo  Triggs. 

Herb  Gardens 

The  Herb  Garden,  by  Frances  A.  Bardwell. 

The  Book  of  the  Scented  Garden,  by  F.  W.  Burbridge. 

Japanese  Gardens 

The  Art  of  Landscape  Gardening  in  Japan,  by  Josiah  Conder. 
Landscape  Gardening  in  Japan,  by  Josiah  Conder. 
The  Flowers  and  Gardens  of  Japan,  by  Florence  Du  Cane. 
Japanese  Flower  Arrangement  Applied  to  Western  Needs,  by  Mary 
Averill. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  345 

Lawns 

Lawns  and  How  to  Make  Them,  by  Leonard  Barron. 

Making  a  Lawn,  by  Luke  J.  Doogue. 

Turf  for  Golf  Courses,  by  Piper  and  Oakley. 

Miscellaneous 

The  New  Gardening,  by  Walter  P.  Wright. 

Catalog  of  the  Codman  Collection  of  Books  on  Landscape  Gardening, 

Boston  Public  Library,  1899. 
The  Landscape  Beautiful,  by  F.  A.  Waugh. 
Practical  Landscape  Gardening,  by  Robert  B.  Cridland. 
Gardening  for  Beginners,  by  E.  T.  Cook. 
Farm  and  Garden  Rule  Book,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 
Manual  of  Gardening,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 
Standard  Cyclopedia  of  Horticulture,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 
Gardeners '  Dictionary,  by  G.  W.  Johnson. 
The  Book  of  Topiary,  by  C.  H.  Curtis  and  W.  Gibson. 
My  Growing  Garden,  by  J.  Horace  MacFarland. 
Book  of  Garden  Plans,  by  Stephen  F.  Hamblin. 

Native  Plants 

Wild  Flowers  of  New  England,  by  Lincoln. 

Ferns  and  How  to  Grow  Them,  by  G.  A.  Woolson. 

Ferns  and  Their  Haunts,  by  W.  N.  Clute. 

The  Book  of  Choice  Ferns,  by  G.  Schneider. 

An  Illustrated  Flora,  by  N.  L.  Britton  and  Addison  Brown. 

Our  Northern  Shrubs,  by  Harriet  L.  Keeler. 

Silva  of  North  America,  by  C.  S.  Sargent. 

Field  Book  of  American  Trees  and  Shrubs,  by  F.  S.  Mathews. 

Pennsylvania  Trees,  by  J.  S.  Illick. 

Plant  Life  of  Alabama,  by  Charles  Mohr. 

Tree  Book,  by  Julia  E.  Rogers. 

Trees  and  Shrubs  of  Northeastern  America,  by  C.  S.  Newhall. 

Wild  Flowers  of  the  North  American  Mountains,  by  Julia  W.  Henshaw. 

Key  to  Trees  of  Northeastern  United  States  and  Canada,  by  Collin 

and  Preston. 
A  Guide  to  the  Wild  Flowers,  by  Alice  Lounsberry. 

Ornamental  Trees  and  Shrubs 

Aristocrats  of  the  Garden,  by  E.  H.  Wilson. 
Trees  and  Shrubs,  by  C.  S.  Sargent. 
Ornamental  Shrubs  of  the  United  States,  by  A.  G.  Apgar. 
Garden  Trees  and  Shrubs,  by  W.  P.  Wright. 
Shade  Trees  in  Towns  and  Cities,  by  William  Solataroff. 
Ornamental  Shrubs  for  Garden,  Lawn,  and  Park  Planting,  by  L.  D. 
Davis. 


346  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Plant  Diseases 

Fungus  Diseases  of  Plants,  by  B.  M.  Duggar. 

Injurious  Insects  of  the  Farm  and  Garden,  by  Mrs.  Mary  Treat. 

Spraying  of  Plants,  by  E.  G.  Lodeman. 

Insects  and  Insecticides,  by  C.  M.  Weed. 

Propagation  of  Plants 

Plant  Propagation,  by  Alfred  C.  Hottes. 

Plant  Culture,  by  George  W.  Oliver. 

Nursery  Book,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 

Plant  Breeding,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 

Plant  Physiology,  With  Special  Reference  to  Plant  Production,  by  B. 

M.  Duggar. 

Plant  Propagation,  by  M.  G.  Kains. 
Art  of  Propagation,  by  J.  Jenkins. 

Pruning 

Pruning  Manual,  by  L.  H.  Bailey. 

Principles  and  Practice  of  Pruning,  by  M.  G.  Kains. 

Rock  Gardens 

Alpine  Flowers  and  Rock  Gardens,  by  Walter  P.  Wright. 

Alpine  Flowers  for  Gardens,  Rock,  Wall,  Marsh  Plants  and  Mountain 

Shrubs,  by  W.  Robinson. 
Making  a  Rock  Garden,  by  H.  L.  Adams. 
The  Small  Rock  Garden,  by  F.  H.  Jenkins. 
My  Rock  Garden,  by  R.  J.  Farrer. 

Roses 

Roses,  by  H.  R.  Darlington. 

Roses,   Their   History,    Development,    and    Cultivation,    by   J.   H. 

Pemberton. 

The  Rose,  by  H.  B.  Ellwanger. 
Parsons,  On  the  Rose,  by  S.  B.  Parsons. 

The  Practical  Book  of  Outdoor  Rose  Growing,  by  Geo.  C.  Thomas,  Jr. 
A  Book  about  Roses,  by  S.  Reynolds  Hole. 
Roses  and  Rose  Gardens,  by  W.  P.  Wright. 
Everblooming  Roses  for  the  Outdoor  Garden  of  the  Amateur,  by  G.  T. 

Drennan. 


Street  Trees 

Field  Book  for  Street  Tree  Mapping,  by  William  Solataroff. 
Trees  in  Lawn,  Street,  and  Park,  by  B.  E.  Fernow. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  347 

Trees  and  Shrubs  (Winter  Characters  and  Form) 

New  England  Trees  in  Winter,  by  Blakeslee  and  Jarvis. 
Handbook  of  Trees  of  the  Northern  States  and  Canada,  by  Romeym 
B.  Hough. 

Vines 

Climbing  Plants,  by  W.  Watson. 

Book  of  Climbing  Plants,  by  S.  Arnott. 

Vines  and  How  to  Grow  Them,  by  William  McCollum. 

A  Concise  Handbook  of  Climbers,  Twiners,  and  Wall  Shrubs,  by  H.  P. 

Fitzgerald. 
Vines  of  Northeastern  America,  by  C.  S.  Newhall. 

Wall  Gardens 

Wall  and  Water  Gardens,  by  Gertrude  Jekyll. 

Water  Gardens 

The  Book  of  Water  Gardening,  by  Peter  Bisset. 

Rock  and  Water  Gardens,  by  Charles  Thonger. 

Making  a  Water  Garden,  by  William  Tricker. 

Water  Lilies  and  Aquatics,  by  Peter  Henderson. 

Water  Lilies  and  How  to  Grow  Them,  by  Conrad  and  Hus. 

Winter  Protection 

Hedges,  Shelters,  Windbreaks,  and  Stone  Fences,  by  E.  P.  Powell. 


ARTICLES 
PRUNING  (ORNAMENTAL  FLOWERING  TREES,  SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND  PERENNIALS) 

TITLE  OF  ARTICLE  AUTHOR  MAGAZINE  REFERENCE  DATE 

Winter    Pruning    and       Rockwell          American  Homes  and      Jan.,  1913 
Spraying  Gardens 

Street     Trees,     Their      A.  D.  Taylor    Cornell  Exper.  Station    Bull.  256 
Care  and  Preserva- 
tion 

Pruning:     A     Fitting      Kains  Garden  Magazine  Dec.,  1916 

Winter  Activity 

Pruning    Shrubs    and       Barnes  Suburban  Life  Apr.,  191 1 

Roses 

Pruning  Table  Suburban  Life  Mar.,  1914 

Suggestions  for  Shrub      Rose  Suburban  Life  Dec.,  1912 

Trimming  in  Win- 
ter 


348 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


TITLE  OF  ARTICLE 


AUTHOR 


Right  Way  to  Trim  a      Solataroff 

Tree 
Pruning 


MAGAZINE  REFERENCE 

Suburban  Life 

Missouri  Botanical 
Garden  Bulletin 
Vol.  VI,  No.  9 


DATE 

Apr.,  1909 


Nov.,  1918 


TRANSPLANTING  TREES,   SHRUBS,   VINES,   AND   PERENNIALS 

Lurie  Garden  Magazine         Oct.,  1918 

Pendleton  Garden  Magazine         Oct.,  1918 

Garden  Magazine         July,  1918 


How  to  Succeed  with 
Fall  Planting 

Fall  Planting  for 
Spring  Flowers 

Experiences  in  Mid- 
summer Transplant- 
ing 

Planting  and  Shaping 
Young  Trees 

Planting  Trees  by 
Machine 

Planting  the  Perennial 
Border 

Fall  Heeling-in  for 
Spring  Planting 

Transplanting  Big 
Trees 

Transplanting  Out  of 

1    Season 

September  Transplant- 
ing 

Perennials  for  Fall 
Planting 

How  to  Plant  Trees 
and  Shrubs 

Making  a  Success  of 
Tree  Planting 

Transplanting  Large 
Trees 

Planting  and  Seeding 
Seasons 


Whitten 

Weed 
Tuthill 

Meller 


Johnson 
Platt 

McLaughlin 
Taylor 


Garden  Magazine 
Scientific  American 
House  Beautiful 
Garden  Magazine 
Garden  Magazine 
Garden  Magazine 
House  Beautiful 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 
Suburban  Life 

Suburban  Life 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 

Landscape  Archi- 
tecture 

Garden  Magazine 


MAINTENANCE   OF   PLANTING  AND   LAWNS 


Green  Grass  in  Dry   Rockwell      Country  Life 
Weather 


Apr.,  1915 
Nov.,  1916 
Aug.,  1916 
Oct.,  1916 
Feb.,  1917 
July,  1917 
Sept.,  1917 
Dec.,  1914 
Mar.,  1908 
Sept.,  1914 
Nov.,  1915 
Apr.,  1919 
Mar.,  1920 

Aug.,  1916 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


349 


TITLE  OF  ARTICLE  AUTHOR 

Getting      the      Lawn      Oldcastle 

into  Shape  and 

Keeping  it  so 
Summer  Care  of  the       Bourne 

Lawn 


MAGAZINE  REFERENCE 

Suburban  Life 


Suburban  Life 


DATE 

Apr.,  1912 
June,  1908 


WINTER  PROTECTION   AND  MULCHING 


Putting  on   the  Gar-  Wm.  C.  McCollum 

den's  Winter  Clothes 
To    Protect    Flowers      Sinclair 

From  Frost 
Putting    the    Garden      Farrington 

into      Its      Winter 

Quarters 

Winter         Protection      Meller 
Winter   Protection  in       Barnes 

the  Garden 
Timely  Fall  Work  in      Rexford 

the  Border 
Don't    Hurry   Winter 

Protection  of  Roses 


House  and  Garden 
Draftsman 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 

Garden  Magazine 
Suburban  Life 

Suburban  Life 
Garden  Magazine 


Dec.,  1918 
Dec.,  1914 
Oct.,  1916 

Nov.,  1917 
Nov.,  1910 

Nov.,  1911 
Oct.,  1918 


BULBS 


Fall       Planting       of 

Spring  Bulbs 
Planting     Bulbs     for      Mrs.  Strang 

Spring  Bloom 
Naturalizing      Spring-     Weed 

Flowering  Bulbs 
Planting    Tables    for 

Bulbs  Indoors   and 

Outdoors 

All  Summer  Bulb  Garden  Farring- 
ton 
Summer-blooming  Bulbs   Rockwell 

for  Spring  Planting 
The  Fall  Budget  and      Mrs.  Strang 

Its  Springtime 

Yield 
Bulbs    and    Tuberous 

Plants 


Craftsman 
Garden  Magazine 
House  Beautiful 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 

Countryside  Maga- 
zine 

House  and  Garden 


Missouri  Botanical 
Garden  Bulletin 
Vol.  IV.  No.  9 


Oct.,  1915 
Oct.,  1915 
Oct.,  1916 
Sept.,  1916 

Apr.,  1916 
Apr.,  1915 
Oct.,  1918 

Sept.,  1916 


350 


THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 


ARTICLES— MISCELLANEOUS 


TITLE  OF  ARTICLE 

The  Best  Hardy  Coni- 
fers 

Evergreens  for  the 
Home  Grounds 

Evergreens  for  the 
Home  Landscape 

The  Uses,  Choice,  and 
Planting  of  Ever- 
greens 

Native  Plants  Suitable 
for  the  Gardens  of 
Missouri    and    Ad 
joining  States 

Making  an  Old-Fash- 
ioned  Garden 

The  Perennial  or  Old- 
Fashioned  Garden 

Planning  Features  for 
Garden  Special  Ef- 
fects 

The  Garden  of  Wild 
Flowers 

Gardens  of  Sweet 
Odour 

Hardy  Perennials  for 
Landscape  Use 

One  Hundred  Native 
Perennials  for  the 
Wild  Garden 

Roses  and  How  to 
Grow  Them 

Have  We  Lost  Some- 
thing in  Roses? 

Hardy  Shrubs  That 
Can  Be  Forced 

Finding  the  Shrub  to 
Fit  the  Place 

Dual  Purpose  Shrubs 
and  Trees 

Shrubs  with  Brightly 
Coloured  Twigs 


AUTHOR 

Wilson 

MAGAZINE  REFERENCE 

Garden  Magazine 

DATE 

Dec.,  1915 

Wild 

House  and  Garden 

Sept.,  1914 

Allen 

House  and  Garden 

Sept.,  1915 

Mrs.  Strang 

House  and  Garden 

1918 

Missouri  Botanical 
Garden  Bulletin 


Vol.  VIII 


Mrs.  Strang 

House  and  Garden 

July,  1917 

Wild 

House  and  Garden 

Oct.,  1914 

Hamblin 

Garden  Magazine 

Feb.,  1915 

Mrs.  Strang 

House  and  Garden 

Sept.,  1918 

Burke 

House  and  Garden 

Mar.,  1915 

Richie 

Garden  Magazine 

Feb.,  1915 

Taylor 

Garden  Magazine 

May,   1915 

Rockwell 

House  and  Garden 

April,  1913 

Barren 

Country  Life 

June,  1914 

Gibson 
Richie 

Gardener's    Chron- 
icle of  America 
Garden  Magazine 

Oct.,  1919 
Apr.,  1915 

Farrington 

Country  Life 

Mar.,  1920 

Miller 

Country  Life 

Dec.,  1915 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 


TITLE  OF  ARTICLE 

Trees  and  Shrubs 
Worth  Planting  for 
TheirConspicuously 
Ornamental  Fruits 

Ornamental  Flowering 
Trees 

The  Peril  of  Our  Shade 

Trees 
SomeTreesand  Shrubs 

for  Trying  Sites 


AUTHOR 

Wilson 


Porter 


MAGAZINE  REFERENCE 

Garden  Magazine 

Gardener's    Chron- 
icle of  America 

Country  Life 
Garden  Magazine 


351 

DATE 

Oct.,  1915 


Apr.,  May, 

June, 
July,  1920 
Mar.,  1916 

Mar.,  1914 


GLOSSARY 


GLOSSARY 

THE  author  has  attempted  in  this  glossary  to  compile  a  set  of  terms  or 
words  commonly  used  in  landscape  literature  pertaining  to  general  planting 
design.  Landscape  architecture  is  one  of  the  younger  professions.  It  has  no 
distinct  vocabulary  so  recognized  by  the  dictionary  of  to-day. 

Such  words  as  establish,  naturalize,  open  allee,  pleached  allee,  puddle,  and 
leggy  as  applied  to  the  language  of  this  profession  require  a  definition  other 
than  those  commonly  given  to  such  words.  The  definitions  here  given  are 
those  which  are  generally  accepted  by  practicing  landscape  architects. 

No  attempt  has  been  made  to  define  a  large  group  of  other  words  which  are 
used  in  the  general  field  of  landscape  construction  work  as  differentiated  from 
planting  design  and  its  execution. 

Accent  Plant: 

A  plant  used  to  give  prominence  to  its  location  either  because  of 
peculiarly  interesting  habit  of  growth,  characteristics  of  fruit  or  of 
flowers  or  foliage. 

Acclimatize: 

v.    To  make  accustomed  to  a  climate  to  which  a  plant  is  not  native. 

Acid  Soil: 

A  soil  containing  an  excess  of  uncombined  acids.  Any  acid  soil  is 
objectionable  (even  when  only  very  slightly  acid)  to  most  plants, 
except  ericaceous  plants.  Changes  blue  litmus  paper  to  red. 

Agricultural  Lime: 

An  unstandardized  product  from  the  unburned  cores  of  lime  kilns* 
mixed  with  other  better  material  but  rarely  having  a  better  value  than 
fine  pulverized  limestone. 

Air-slaked  Lime: 

Is  the  compound  formed  by  the  action  of  carbon  dioxide,  from  the 
air,  on  hydrated  lime.  Its  formula  is  (Ca  C  O),  or  the  same  as  pure  lime- 
stone. 

Alkaline  Soil: 

A  soil  containing  an  excess  of  uncombined  alkali,  lime,  magnesia, 
sodium  carbonate,  etc.  A  good  soil  should  be  very  slightly  alkaline. 
Changes  red  litmus  paper  to  blue. 

355 


356  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Alice,  open: 

A  way  framed  on  either  side  by  symmetrical  rows  of  closely  planted 
trees  or  tall  shrubs  (of  a  height  not  less  than  twice  the  width  between 
rows),  and  so  maintained  that  either  side  presents  a  continuous  vertical 
wall  of  close-growing  foliage. 

Alice,  pleached: 

A  way  framed  on  either  side  by  symmetrical  rows  of  closely  planted 
trees  or  shrubs,  so  maintained  that  the  branches  of  the  continuous 
walls  of  close-growing  foliage  arch  and  interweave  across  the  top  of 
the  way,  at  a  height  of  not  less  than  seven  or  eight  feet. 

Annuals: 

Plants    which    develop    from    seeds    each    year,    mature,    produce 
ripened  seed,  and  die  during  the  same  growing  season. 

Alpine  Plants: 

Plants  adapted  to  living  in  exposed  situations  but  requiring  a  constant 
seepage  of  cool  water  through  the  soil  surrounding  their  roots.  Alpine 
plants  are  not  drought-resisting. 

Anthracnose: 

A  plant  disease  caused  by  a  parasitic  fungus  of  one  definite  class 
(melanconiae). 

Arborescent  Shrubs: 

Those  plants  on  the  borderline  between  shrubs  and  trees. 

Ball: 

In  transplanting  work  it  is  the  mass  of  earth  containing  the  roots  of  a 
plant,  and  it  is  transplanted  with  the  plant  to  its  new  location. 

Ball-and-Burlap : 

The  process  of  covering  a  ball  of  earth,  containing  the  roots  of  a  plant, 
with  burlap  or  other  bagging  so  that  the  plant  may  be  safely  transported 
a  considerable  distance  without  losing  the  earth  from  about  its  roots. 

Bedding  Plants: 

Herbaceous  plants  selected  for  the  purpose  of  producing  a  solid  ground 
cover  of  flowers  or  foliage  as  a  part  of  a  definite  design  in  a  refined 
garden  or  lawn  development. 


Bell-glass: 


A  bell-shaped  glass  used  to  cover  small  plants  growing  in  the  open,  as 
a  protection  from  wind  and  rain  and  frequent  temperature  changes. 


GLOSSARY  357 

Biennials: 

Plants  which  require  two  years  to  produce  ripened  seed.  They  form 
buds  at  the  crown  of  the  root  at  the  end  of  the  first  season.  The  next 
season  they  bear  ripened  seed,  and  the  plants  die. 

Blight: 

A  diseased  condition  caused  by  a  parasitic  fungus. 

Bog  Garden: 

A  garden  composed  largely  of  bog-loving  plants.  A  garden  on  a  rela- 
tively low  area  consisting  of  a  continuously  wet,  peaty  soil,  but  not 
containing  stagnant  water. 

Budding: 

The  insertion  of  a  bud  from  one  plant  (together  with  some  live  sur- 
rounding tissue)  beneath  the  bark'of  another  plant  so  that  the  cambium 
layers  join  and  grow  together. 

Bulb: 

A  subterranean  leaf-bud  consisting  usually  of  several  fleshy  scales. 

Calcium  Oxide: 

A  compound  resulting  from  the  burning  of  limestone  containing,  when 
pure,  40  parts  of  calcium  and  16  parts  of  oxygen  by  weight.  It  is  also 
known  as  fresh  burned  or  quicklime. 

Callus: 

The  new  tissue  which  forms  over  a  wound  as  over  the  end  of  a  cutting; 
a  protective  measure  provided  in  nature;  but  not  always  an  indication 
that  the  cutting  will  produce  roots. 

Cambium,  or  cambium  layer: 

The  soft,  very  thin  tissue  lying  between  the  bark  and  the  woody  tissue. 
This  is  the  tissue  from  which  new  wood  originates  and  is  the  only  truly 
live  portion  of  the  stem  of  a  plant.  Plant  food  rises  from  roots  to  leaves 
through  the  cells  on  the  inner  half  of  the  cambium  layer  and  returns 
from  the  leaves  downward  as  available  plant  food  through  cells  on  the 
outer  half  of  the  cambium  layer. 

Canker: 

An  area  attacked  by  a  parasitic  fungus. 

Carpet  bedding: 

A  design  of  plants  which  form  a  close  mat  on  the  surface  of  the  ground 
and  respond  to  severe  cutting  back,  as  distinguished  from  ground- 
cover  plants  which  may  stand  several  inches  above  the  ground. 


358  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Clay: 

Earthy  material  (occurring  in  nature),  whose  chief  property  is  plasticity 
when  wet.  The  size  of  particles  varies  from  1-5000  to  1-25000  of  an 
inch  in  diameter.  Bakes  and  cracks  freely  when  dried  out. 

Clay  Loam: 

A  loam  soil  containing  a  predominance  of  clay. 

Clump: 

A  cluster  of  roots  or  bulbs  or  tubers  capable  of  being  divided  into 
separate  plants  or  of  producing  one  large  mass  of  plants  resembling  a 
single  plant. 

Collected  Stock: 

Plants  which  have  been  taken  from  their  native  habitat  and  shipped 
direct  from  the  collecting  ground  to  the  new  location.  These  require 
more  care  and  are  subject  to  greater  loss  than  nursery-grown  stock. 

Cold  Frame: 

An  unheated,  outdoor,  covered  plant  house,  generally  covered  with 
glazed  sash;  but  sometimes  prepared  paper  or  cloth  is  used.  No  ma- 
nure is  used  in  the  soil  at  bottom  of  a  cold  frame.  Cold  frames  are  most 
frequently  used  as  a  transition  space  in  the  hardening-off  process. 

Compost: 

A  soil  made  by  mixing  loam  with  decaying  organic  compounds  and  some- 
times inorganic  fertilizers,  allowing  nitrification  and  oxidation  to 
proceed;  but  preventing  plant  growth  until  a  very  rich  soil  is  produced. 

Congested: 

A  term  applied  in  planting  to  a  situation  having  impure  air  or 
restricted  feeding  area  for  roots,  or  both. 

Conifer: 

A  plant  which  bears  its  seeds  in  a  cone.  With  the  exception  of  the 
ginkgo,  the  larches,  and  the  bald  cypress  practically  all  conifers  are 
evergreen  needle-bearing  plants,  as  the  pine,  spruce,  and  fir.  (See 
Evergreen.) 

Cover  Crop: 

A  herbaceous  crop  sown  to  cover  the  ground  temporarily  and  thus 
protect  it  from  atmospheric  and  water  action;  generally  plowed  under 
for  its  fertilizing  value. 


GLOSSARY  359 

Creeping  Plants: 

Those  plants  whose  stems  run  along  either  on  or  under  the  ground 
and  root  at  intervals. 

Crevice  Plants: 

Those  plants  with  tenacious  root  systems  adapted  for  use  in  the 
narrow  and  congested  soil  areas  between  flagstones  in  a  walk  or  between 
stones  in  a  dry  wall. 

Cross  Fertilization: 

The  conveyance  of  pollen  from  one  flower  to  another. 

Crown,  of  bulbs  or  other  herbaceous  plants: 

The  persistent  portion  of  the  stem  which  bears  the  buds  which  form 
the  next  stem. 

Cuttings: 

Detached  leaf  buds  or  portions  of  branches  which  are  capable  under 
favourable  circumstances  of  forming  new  plants  when  placed  in  a  moist, 
warm  soil. 

Deciduous: 

Plants  that  drop  their  leaves  each  fall  and  produce  a  complete  new 
set  of  leaves  each  spring. 

Dehorn: 

To  remove  a  portion  of  the  top  of  a  plant,  leaving  only  short  portions 
of  the  main  branches. 

Design  Bedding: 

A  design  of  herbaceous  plants  used  for  the  purpose  of  producing  a 
definite  effect  from  their  flowers  and  not  their  foliage,  and  allowed  to 
continue  their  normal  growth  without  being  cut  back. 

Dibble: 

A  pointed  implement  of  wood  or  metal  used  to  make  holes  in  the 
ground,  especially  for  plants,  seeds,  or  bulbs. 

Dividing: 

The  propagation  of  plants  by  separating  the  roots;  more  especially 
the  dividing  of  bulbous  and  tuberous  plants  into  several  plants. 

Dormant: 

A  resting  condition  of  plants  when  growth  is  not  active  and  the  flow  of 
sap  is  stopped. 


360  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Double  Flowers: 

Commonly  the  result  of  the  substitution  of  brightly  coloured 
petals  for  stamens  or  pistils.  A  perfect  double  flower  has  no  stamens 
or  pistils,  hence  is  sterile  and  the  plant  must  be  propagated  by  cuttings. 

Drainage  for  plants: 

The  carrying  away  of  excess  water  from  the  soil  in  which  plants  are 
placed.  This  drainage  promotes  a  deep  root  system,  which  aids  the 
plant  in  surviving  periods  of  drought;  it  also  prevents  a  soil  from 
becoming  water-soaked  and  "drowning"  the  root  system,  especially 
of  newly  transplanted  stock. 

Dry  Wall: 

A  wall  constructed  of  individual  stones  with  loam  filling  the  crevices 
between  them.  Such  a  wall  may  be  used  either  as  a  retaining  wall 
to  support  an  embankment  of  earth  or  against  an  earth  slope  to  pre- 
vent unnecessary  erosion. 

Ericaceous: 

A  family  of  plants  which  require  for  their  normal  growth  an  acid  soil 
(a  soil  free  from  lime  or  magnesium). 

Establish: 

The  act  of  transplanting  any  plant  to  a  new  location  and  causing  root 
growth  which  makes  the  plant  as  capable  in  its  new  location  as  in  its 
old  location,  of  continuing  normal  growth. 

Evergreen: 

Plants  with  persistent  leaves.  These  plants  drop  but  a  small  portion 
of  the  old  leaves  each  year,  and  may  be  conifers,  broad-leaved  ever- 
greens, or  opposite-leaved  evergreens. 

Excurrent: 

Having  a  main  stem  extending  up  through  the  top  of  the  plant. 

Fertilizer: 

Plant  food,  either  directly  available,  or  which  upon  nitrification  will 
be  available  for  use  by  the  plant.  Many  fertilizers  (such  as  sheep 
manure  and  dried  blood)  contain  plant  food  in  an  immediately  soluble 
form  for  plant  requirements  or  in  a  form  (such  as  bone  meal  and  lime 
rock)  which  does  not  become  available  until  after  a  period  of  chemical 
reaction. 


GLOSSARY  361 

Field -grown  Stock: 

Nursery-grown  stock  which  is  grown  in  the  field,  as  distinguished  from 
plants  grown  in  pots,  in  cold  frames,  or  under  other  especially  favour- 
able and  artificial  conditions,  which  tend  to  make  better  looking 
specimens,  but  usually  less  hardy  plants.  Thus,  field-grown  plants 
are  often  more  desirable,  even  though  not  nearly  as  good  looking 
specimens. 

Fillers: 

Short-lived  or  rapidly  growing  plants  temporarily  planted  between 
permanent  plants  as  in  orchards  or  in  mass  plantings. 

Fire  blight: 

A  bacterial  disease. 

Flat: 

A  shallow  box,  averaging  in  depth  from  three  to  four  inches,  to  receive 
soil  in  which  to  plant  seeds,  or  to  start  cuttings. 

Flowering  on  new  wood: 

A  term  used  in  referring  to  plants  which  bear  flowers  on  wood  grown 
that  same  season.  Hence  they  are  mostly  late-summer  and  fall- 
flowering  plants  and  should  be  pruned  in  late  winter  or  early  spring  be- 
fore growth  begins. 

Flowering  on  old  wood: 

A  term  used  in  referring  to  plants  which  bear  flowers  on  wood  formed 
the  previous  year,  hence  mostly  spring-flowering  plants.  They  should 
always  be  pruned  immediately  after  the  period  of  bloom  is  completed. 
(Never  prune  in  early  spring.) 

Force: 

v.  To  stimulate  growth  by  artificial  means  such  as  heat,  light,  and 
fertilizers.  Usually  adopted  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  fruits  or 
flowers  of  unusual  size  or  quantity  either  in  season  or  out  of  season. 

Forcing: 

The  acceleration  of  growth  by  gradually  increasing  temperature,  water 
supply,  and  quickly  available  plant  food  such  as  sodium  nitrate. 

Frame: 

See  Cold  frame  or  Hot-bed. 

Fresh-burned  Lime: 

See  calcium  oxide. 


362  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Friable: 

Easily  crumbled,  mellow,  allowing  free  and  unobstructed  root  develop- 
ment. A  term  used  in  describing  a  condition  of  soil. 

Frozen  Ball: 

A  solidly  frozen  ball  of  earth  containing  a  major  part  of  the  root  sys- 
tem of  a  plant  (usually  a  tree)  which  is  being  transplanted.  Ball  of 
earth  must  be  frozen  sufficiently  solid  so  that  it  will  not  split  during 
normal  transplanting  operations. 

Fungus: 

A  flowerless  plant  not  containing  chlorophyll  and  generally  parasitic 
upon  another  living  plant. 

Furrow: 

A  shallow  trench  made  by  or  as  by  a  plow. 

Gall: 

An  abnormal  swelling  or  excrescence  caused  by  gall  flies. 

Gas  Lime: 

Is  a  mixture  of  slaked  lime  or  calcium  hydrate,  and  carbonate  of  lime, 
together  with  sulphites  and  sulphides  of  lime.  These  last  are  injurious 
to  young  plant  life  until  they  have  been  exposed  to  the  air  for  some 
time.  Gas  lime  usually  contains  40  per  cent,  of  calcium  oxide  and 
sometimes  a  small  percentage  of  nitrogen. 

Girdle: 

n.  An  incision  or  several  incisions  which  sever  the  cambium  layer  of  a 
woody  plant  to  the  woody  tissue  and  for  the  whole  circumference  of  the 
stem.  It  may  be  a  circular  cut,  a  spiral  cut,  or  may  consist  of  sev- 
eral cuts  more  or  less  widely  separated,  but  whose  horizontal  projection 
would  form  a  closed  circle,  v.  To  kill  a  tree  by  girdling  it. 

Ground  Cover: 

Small  plants  or  vines,  usually  growing  not  more  than  a  foot  high,  which 
will  spread  out  and  conceal  the  surface  of  the  ground  from  view. 

Grubbing: 

Clipping  and  digging  out  roots,  stumps,  etc.  Turning  over  and 
breaking  up  the  sod  with  a  grub  hoe  or  mattock. 

Guying  Trees: 

Placing  wires  or  stays  on  trees  or  portions  of  trees  to  prevent  them 
being  blown  over  or  broken  by  the  wind ;  more  especially  the  placing 


GLOSSARY  363 

of  three  or  more  guys  on  trees  recently  transplanted  to  hold  them 
firmly  in  place  until  an  adequate  root  system  has  been  established, 
and  to  prevent  swaying  of  the  trees  and  loosening  of  root  system. 

Hammock  Land: 

Land,  mostly  in  the  southern  part  of  Florida,  covered  with  luxuriant 
growth  of  trees  (hardwoods,  or  cabbage  palms  and  palmettos).  The 
soil  is  rich  in  fertilizer  value. 

Harden-off: 

To  so  care  for  plants  previously  grown  in  a  greenhouse  that  they  will 
be  able  to  withstand  normal  outdoor  exposures.  It  is  customary  to 
move  such  plants  from  the  greenhouse  to  cold  frames. 

Heave-out: 

The  partial  lifting  of  plants  out  of  the  soil  by  frost  action.  This  is 
apt  to  occur  when  ground  previously  deeply  frozen  and  thawed  out 
on  top  is  again  frozen.  The  layer  of  frozen  soil  beneath,  which  has 
not  yet  thawed  out,  forms  an  unyielding  barrier  and  the  expansion 
of  the  soil  in  freezing  is  then  wholly  upward.  The  stresses  thus  caused 
are  enormous  and  plants  are  lifted  sometimes  almost  wholly  out  of 
the  ground. 

Hedge: 

A  row  composed  of  living  plants  usually  in  a  straight  line  and  planted 
closely  to  each  other  (See  Plate  XV,  Page  95). 

Hedgerow: 

A  hedge  or  fence  of  bushes  or  shrubs  either  in  the  form  of  a  definite 
hedge  or  of  an  irregular  border-planting,  of  varying  width  and  often- 
times varying  types  of  plants. 

Heeling-in: 

Placing  plants  with  roots  covered  with  soil  pressed  down  with  the  heel 
or  toe  to  preserve  them  in  a  dormant  condition  for  short  periods  until 
they  can  be  permanently  planted.  Usually  a  deep  furrow  is  dug,  the 
roots  placed  close  together  in  the  furrow,  with  stems  in  a  slanting  posi- 
tion, and  roots  then  covered  with  soil.  The  soil  used  in  this  covering  is 
taken  from  the  furrow  of  the  next  row  (See  Plate  VI,  Page  34). 

Herb: 

A  plant  with  no  persistent  stem  above  ground. 

Horticultural  Variety: 

Said  of  certain  varieties  of  plants  developed  because  of  some  desirable 
characteristic.  They  are  not  necessarily  hybrids,  but  usually  are  arti- 


364  .      THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

ficially  hybridized,  then  propagated  by  grafts,  buds,  cuttings,  etc., 
to  preserve  in  the  new  plant  the  desirable  characteristics  of  the  parent, 
which  might  be  lost  if  grown  from  seed. 

Host  Plant: 

A  living  plant  attacked  by  a  parasitic  fungus  or  supporting  a  parasitic 
plant. 

Hotbed: 

A  bed  of  earth  enclosed  in  a  glass-covered  frame  and  heated  by  means 

of  fermenting  manure  placed  well  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  the 

hotbed. 
Humus: 

Vegetable  mould  or  partly  decayed  organic  matter  in  the  soil. 

Hybrid: 

A  cross  between  two  species  of  the  same  genus  or  two  varieties  of  the 
same  species. 

Hybrid  Tea: 

A  section  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  group  crossed  back  upon 
the  tea-scented  China  rose.  They  have  a  lighter  green  and  less 
wrinkled  foliage  than  the  pure  Hybrid  Perpetual.  They  are  generally 
less  hardy  but  more  continuous  in  bloom  than  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
sometimes  blooming  from  June  until  frost. 

Hybrid  Perpetual: 

Or  Hybrid  Remontant  roses  have  a  stiff  upright  growth,  dull  wrinkled 
foliage,  and  large  flat  flowers  generally  of  dark  colours.  They  embrace 
generally  the  characteristics  of  the  Provence,  Damask,  French,  and 
Chinese  groups.  They  mostly  have  only  one  season  of  bloom,  in  June, 
but  sometimes  give  scattered  bloom  later  on  in  the  season. 

Hybridization: 

Cross  fertilization  between  plants  of  different  varieties  or  species  and 
sometimes  of  different  genera. 

Hydrated  Lime: 

The  compound  formed  by  the  action  of  water  or  steam  on  fresh 
burned  lime.  Its  good  physical  condition  makes  even  distribution  pos- 
sible, and  thus  permits  maximum  effectiveness  to  be  obtained. 

Indigenous : 

Native  and  original  to  the  country  in  which  the  plant  is  growing. 


GLOSSARY  365 

Land  Plaster: 

Is  a  sulphate  of  calcium  compound  and  its  tendency  is  to  make  a  soil 
sour.  It  should  not  be  considered  as  a  means  of  correcting  soil  acidity. 

Larva: 

The  immature  wingless,  worm-like  form  in  which  insects  (which  undergo 
metamorphosis')  have  their  first  stage  or  stages  before  acquiring  wings. 

Leaching: 

In  soils;  the  loss,  through  solution  in  drainage  water,  of  lime  or  plant 
food. 

Leader: 

The  terminal  leaf  bud  which  will  often  form  the  main  stalk  of  the 
plant;  not  only  this  bud,  but  also  the  previous  year's  growth  is  in- 
cluded by  the  term. 

Leaf  Curl: 

In  peaches  is  a  condition  caused  by  too  rapid  cell  multiplication  in  re- 
sponse to  the  stimulus  caused  by  a  parasitic  fungus.  In  snowball 
bushes  the  stimulus  is  caused  by  aphids. 

Leaf  Mould: 

Decayed  leaves  combined  with  other  organic  matter  found  on  a  forest 
floor. 

Leggy: 

A  term  used  to  describe  a  plant  (usually  a  shrub)  on  which  old  growth 
has  developed  in  such  a  manner  that  the  mass  of  fine  branches  and  foli- 
age is  on  the  top  part  of  the  plant,  and  the  lower  part  shows  a  few 
bare  stems.  Usually  the  result  of  overcrowding  plants  or  of  incorrect 
pruning  (See  Plate  V). 

Lime,  or  Limestone : 

A  stone  containing  the  element  calcium  which  will  unite  with  oxy- 
gen and  carbon  dioxide  to  form  calcium  carbonate  or  "lime,"  as  used 
on  the  land. 

Line-out: 

As  applied  to  planting  work  usually  means  the  operation  of  planting 
small  nursery  stock  in  definite  rows  where  such  stock  can  make  a 
further  normal  growth  and  be  easily  maintained. 


366  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Litter: 

The  soiled  straw  or  leaves  which  have  been  used  for  bedding  in  stables, 
but  which  does  not  contain  any  considerable  quantity  of  manure  except 
that  which  it  has  absorbed  in  the  form  of  fluids.  Frequently  used  for 
mulching  purposes. 

Loam: 

Earthy  matter  containing  clay,  silt,  sand,  and  organic  matter  in  such 
proportions  as  to  make  a  soil  adapted  to  supporting  vegetable  growth. 
Loam  varies  from  a  very  sandy  loam  to  a  very  clayey  loam.  Usually 
called  topsoil.  (See  topsoil  6.) 

Loam,  sandy: 

Loamy  soil  which  contains  a  predominance  of  sand. 

Lump  Lime: 

Burned  limestone  not  evenly  slaked  so  as  to  become  finely  divided. 

Magnesian  Lime: 

A  term  describing  a  lime  or  limestone  containing  both  magnesium 
carbonate  and  calcium  carbonate. 

Magnesium: 

An  element,  usually  occurring  as  magnesium  carbonate,  which  is  a 
compound  useful  in  correcting  soil  acidity. 

Manure: 

Any  material,  either  organic  or  inorganic,  containing  a  superabundance 
of  plant  food  or  material  which  upon  decomposition  or  nitrification 
becomes  available  plant  food. 

Marl: 

An  earthy,  crumbly  deposit  consisting  chiefly  of  clay  and  calcium  car- 
bonate much  used  as  a  substitute  for  land  lime.  "Green  sand"  marl 
may  be  acid,  but  good  chalk  marl  is  valuable  for  neutralizing  acids. 

Mildew: 

A  diseased  condition  caused  by  the  downy  mildew  fungus. 

Muck: 

Black  swamp  earth  which  varies  widely  in  available  plant  food, 
very  similar  to  peat  except  that  water  is  not  constantly  present  during 
the  process  of  decay;  hence  the  nitrifying  bacteria  are  present  and  the 
material  is  better  suited  for  immediate  use  as  plant  food.  It  is  in  aD 
intermediate  stage  between  leaf  mould  and  peat. 


PLATE  LX.  There  is  always  an  opportunity  on  every  large  estate  for 
the  naturalizing  of  bulbs.  Poet's  narcissus  is  quite  happy  in  a  wild  garden 
or  field  environment.  (See  page  270,  group  XXXVI-B) 


PLATE  LXI.  Throughout  the  Southern  States  the  creeping  fig  is  one  of  the 
most  desirable  vines  for  growth  on  masonry  walls.  It  develops  interesting 
foliage  of  a  fine  texture  and  is  a  vigorous  grower  and  compares  favourably 
with  the  Lowe's  Boston  ivy,  so  successfully  used  in  the  Northern  States. 
(See  page  303,  group  XLIII-C-b) 


GLOSSARY  367 

Mulch: 

A  surface  covering  about  the  base  of  plants  to  prevent  or  retard  evapo- 
ration of  moisture  from  the  soil,  and  prevent  sudden  freezing  and 
thawing  in  the  soil.  Dead  leaves,  straw,  manure,  etc.,  are  commonly 
used. 

Naturalize: 

To  adapt  and  to  cause  to  grow,  without  artificial  care,  in  a  woodland  or 
field  environment.  This  does  not  imply  reproduction  of  its  kind  in  the 
new  location. 

Nitrification: 

The  process  resulting  in  the  formation  of  nitrates  in  the  soil.  Certain 
bacteria  known  as  "nitrifying  bacteria"  are  the  cause  of  this  change  of 
nitrogen  and  nitrogen  compounds  into  nitrates.  It  is  thus  the  oxida- 
tion of  nitrogen  caused  by  bacteria  in  the  soil.  Nitrification  cannot 
proceed  except  in  a  moist,  warm  soil  which  is  well  aerated.  It  is  checked 
entirely  when  the  soil  temperature  is  lower  than  40°  F.  and  also  when 
the  soil  becomes  water  logged  or  saturated,  and  proceeds  rapidly  when 
the  temperature  reaches  75°  Fahr.  and  when  only  40  to  50  per  cent, 
of  the  water  necessary  to  cause  saturation  is  present. 

Nursery: 

A  place  for  growing  plants  out-of-doors,  usually  under  intensive  culti- 
vation. 

Nursery-grown  Stock: 

Plants  which  have  been  grown  at  least  one  full  year  in  a  nursery,  under 
the  supervision  of  competent  gardeners  or  nurserymen  so  as  to  pro- 
duce a  number  of  even-sized  superior  plants  for  transplanting. 

Open  Alice: 

A  way  framed  on  either  side  by  symmetrical  rows  of  closely  planted 
trees  or  tall  shrubs  (of  a  height  not  less  than  twice  the  width  between 
rows),  and  so  maintained  that  both  sides  present  a  continuous  vertical 
wall  of  close-growing  foliage. 

Opening-up: 

In  discussions  on  pruning  this  term  means  the  cutting  out  of  sufficient 
growth  to  admit  the  sunshine  to  the  centre  of  the  plant  or  to  the  area 
about  a  group  of  plants. 

Organic  Manure: 

Manure  consisting  largely  of  decaying  matter  of  animal  or  plant 
origin  as  distinguished  from  mineral  manures  which  are  inorganic. 


368  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Parasitic  Plants: 

Plants  growing  on  or  deriving  nourishment  from  other  plants;  e.  g., 
mistletoe. 

Paring  and  burning: 

This  operation  consists  of  paring  off  the  sod  containing  foul  or  objec- 
tionable growth  to  a  depth  of  about  two  inches  and  after  allowing  it 
to  dry  burning  it  and  spreading  the  ash  over  the  ground. 

Peat: 

Decayed  organic  matter  of  vegetable  origin  naturally  deposited  under 
still  water,  hence  found  in  the  form  of  bogs.  As  it  has  been  deposited 
under  water  and  is  usually  found  still  under  water,  nitrifying  bacteria 
are  not  present  and  peat  is  unavailable  as  plant  food  until  mixed  with 
soil  in  which  nitrifying  bacteria  are  present.  Peat  varies  in  colour 
from  a  pale  brown  or  yellowish  brown  to  almost  black  and  in  texture 
varies  from  a  fibrous  substance,  containing  particles  easily  recognized 
as  plant  remains,  to  a  compact  mass  of  fine  particles  which  when  still 
wet  resemble  clay  except  in  colour. 

Perennial: 

Plants  growing  year  after  year.  Properly  includes  trees  and  shrubs; 
but  in  practice  the  term  is  limited  to  those  plants  which  have  no  per- 
sistent stem  above  ground,  but  do  nevertheless  grow  year  after  year, 
merely  dying  back  to  a  crown  bud  each  fall  and  sending  out  new  stems 
each  spring.  Perennial  herb  is  the  proper  term  to  express  this  meaning. 

Piedmont: 

A  region  lying  at  the  base  of  a  mountain  range. 

Pleached  Alice: 

A  way  framed  on  either  side  by  symmetrical  rows  of  closely  planted 
trees  or  shrubs,  so  maintained  that  the  branches  of  the  continuous  walls 
of  close-growing  foliage  arch  and  interweave  across  the  top  of  the 
way  at  a  height  of  not  less  than  seven  or  eight  feet. 

Pocket-planting : 

The  planting  of  trees  and  shrubs  in  a  pocket  of  fertile  soil  formed  by 
digging  a  large  hole  in  a  more  or  less  unfertile  soil  and  refilling  with 
fertile  soil;  frequently  adopted  to  save  expense  of  preparing  beds  and 
also  to  save  unnecessary  washing  of  an  area  of  loose  soil  on  slopes. 

Pollard: 

v.  To  remove  the  crown  of  a  tree,  usually  at  a  point  below  the  lowest 
branches,  for  the  purpose  of  promoting  a  dense  head  of  foliage  or  for  re- 
juvenating the  tree. 


GLOSSARY  369 

Preparation,  of  planting  beds: 

This  process  normally  includes  plowing,  spading,  or  grubbing,  pulveriz- 
ing the  soil,  applying  manure  and  mixing  with  soil,  and  getting  the  beds 
into  first-class  condition  to  receive  the  plants.  In  clay  soils  it  also  in- 
cludes removing  clay  to  proper  depth,  and  replacing  with  fertile  topsoil. 

Propagation: 

To  cause  to  multiply  either  by  reproduction  from  seed  or  from 
cuttings. 

Puddling: 

The  dipping  of  the  roots  of  plants  into  a  mixture  of  clayey  soil  and 
water  having  the  consistency  of  molasses,  in  order  to  get  close 
contact  between  root  hairs  and  the  soil.  This  protects  the  root  hairs 
from  injury  in  transportation,  retards  drying  out  of  the  roots,  and  pro- 
motes the  acquiring  of  a  speedy  contact  between  roots  and  the  soil 
into  which  the  roots  are  placed. 

Quicklime: 

Unslaked  lime.  In  planting,  any  lime  not  wholly  slaked  is  called 
quicklime.  See  calcium  oxide. 

Refined  Lawns,  Gardens,  etc. 

Said  of  a  studied  landscape  arrangement  which  shows  neatness  and 
careful  maintenance  as  contrasted  to  a  naturalistic  arrangement  which 
permits  each  plant  to  grow  in  unrestrained  competition  with  the  sur- 
rounding plants. 

Renovate: 

To  systematically  prune  old  plants,  either  trees  or  shrubs,  but  more 
especially  shrubs,  so  that  at  the  end  of  two  or  three  years  the  plant 
consists  almost  entirely  of  new  wood  grown  within  that  period.  This 
may  also  mean  to  give  new  life  to  old  plants  by  cultivating  and  ferti- 
lizing the  soil  and  by  systematic  pruning  of  the  plant  itself. 

Retardation: 

The  artificial  application  of  cold  temperatures  or  other  conditions 
whereby  the  resting  period  is  prolonged. 

Reversion: 

A  tendency  to  revert  to  parental  or  ancestral  characteristics. 

Root-bound1: 

A  term  used  in  speaking  of  any  plant  whose  root  system  cannot 
develop  further  because  confined  to  a  limited  area.  Thus,  when  the 


370  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

root  system  of  a  potted  plant  has  filled  the  pot  the  plant  is  root-bound, 
or  when  the  root  system  of  stock  planted  in  pockets  has  filled  the 
pocket  and  the  surrounding  soil  is  so  compact  that  the  roots  cannot 
penetrate  it,  the  plant  becomes  root-bound. 

Root  Prune: 

To  prune  or  cut  the  roots  of  a  plant  in  order  to  check  excessive  growth 
of  the  woody  tops;  often  done  to  secure  a  compact  root  system  consist- 
ing of  a  mass  of  fine  roots  confined  to  a  limited  area  in  order  to  permit 
of  the  plant  being  transplanted  with  a  greater  degree  of  certainty  that 
the  plant  will  continue  to  live  (See  Plate  VI,  Page  34).  Some- 
times done  merely  to  permit  of  the  plant  being  more  easily  fed  and 
decrease  the  probability  of  the  plant  food  being  lost  in  the  greater 
area  of  soil,  or  taken  up  by  plants  for  which  it  is  not  intended. 

Root  Stock: 

The  subterranean  runner  or  partially  subterranean  runner  which  is  a 
part  of  the  root  system  (not  a  part  of  the  stem)  which  roots  at  inter- 
vals and  sends  up  stems  similar  to  a  stolon.  It  is  a  part  of  the  true 
root  system,  while  a  stolon  is  part  of  the  stem. 

Rotted  Manure: 

Organic  manure  in  which  oxidation  is  so  nearly  completed  that  no 
appreciable  amount  of  heat  is  given  off  and  much  of  the  material  is 
available  as  plant  food. 

Runner: 

A  slender  stolon.     (See  Root  Stock). 

Rust: 

A  diseased  condition  caused  by  a  rust  fungus. 

Sanctuary: 

A  place  of  refuge  in  which  birds  or  animals  may  continue  their  normal 
habits  without  fear  of  being  molested. 

Scald: 

A  diseased  condition  of  the  bark  of  a  woody  plant  caused  either  by  the 
action  of  frost  in  bursting  the  cells  or  by  excessive  drying  due  to  sun  or 
wind  action. 

Scion: 

Any  bud  or  shoot  or  other  portion  of  the  stem  of  a  plant  capable  of 
propagation  cut  off  and  prepared  for  grafting. 


GLOSSARY  371 

Scraping  tree  trunks: 

The  process  of  scraping  off  the  loose  bark  from  the  trunk  of  a  tree. 
The  chief  reason  is  to  remove  the  hiding  places  of  injurious  insects. 

Seepage: 

The  process  of  percolation,  as  ground  water  through  the  soil. 

Shothole: 

A  small  local  centre  of  attack  caused  by  parasitic  fungi. 

Shrub: 

A  woody  perennial  as  distinguished  from  a  tree  mainly  by  its  low 
stature  and  having  several  primary  stalks  arising  at  or  near  the 
ground. 

Slaked  Lime: 

Is  fresh  burnt  lime  reduced  to  a  fine  condition  by  the  addition  of 
water. 

Smut: 

A  diseased  condition  caused  by  a  smut  fungus. 

Sod: 

That  stratum  of  earth  which  is  filled  with  the  roots  of  grass,  herbs,  etc. 

Sour  Soil: 

An  acid  soil;  a  term  generally  applied  to  a  soil  which  is  not  only  aci<J 
but  deficient  in  soil  aeration  and  in  drainage. 

Specimen  Plant: 

A  plant  specially  grown  by  itself  so  as  to  display  it  to  best  advantage 
or  to  allow  the  plant  to  assume  normal  and  unrestricted  growth. 

Spore: 

A  minute  portion  of  a  fungus  capable  of  germinating  and  growing  into 
a  new  fungus. 

Sport: 

An  unusual  variation  from  the  normal  type  as  commonly  demonstrated 
in  habits  of  growth  and  qualities  of  colour  or  size  of  flowers. 

Sprigging: 

Planting  of  grass  by  inserting  roots  or  whole  plants  in  the  ground  as 
Bermuda  grass  is  generally  planted. 


372  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Stagger: 

To  plant  alternately  at  equal  distances  in  a  row  on  either  side  of  a 
middle  line  (as  in  the  planting  of  hedges)  or  to  arrange  over  any  area 
at  equal  distances  without  any  reference  to  any  definite  line. 

Stag-head: 

Said  of  a  tree  the  top  of  which  is  dead  or  nearly  so,  due  to  injury  by 
accident  or  disease. 

Stem: 

One  of  the  three  divisions  of  all  plants,  which  consist  of  roots,  stem,  and 
leaves.  The  stem  is  the  ascending  axis  of  the  plant. 

Stolon: 

A  branch  from  the  stem,  as  distinguished  from  the  root  system.  A 
stolon  roots,  or  is  disposed  to  root,  at  intervals,  thus  forming  a  new  plant. 

Stratify: 

To  store  seeds  between  layers  of  earth,  leaves,  or  other  material,  or 
to  bury  them  so  as  to  keep  them  fresh  and  moist,  but  not  so  warm 
as  to  germinate. 

Straw  Manure: 

Manure  which  contains  a  portion  of  the  straw  which  was  used  for 
bedding.  Chiefly  applied  to  the  manure  from  stables  in  which  straw 
was  used  as  bedding,  as  distinguished  from  stables  in  which  sand, 
sawdust,  shavings,  etc.,  are  used  as  bedding. 

Subsoil: 

That  soil  lying  directly  beneath  the  topsoil;  chemically  similar  but 
physically  different.  Without  special  treatment  it  will  not  sustain  vege- 
tation, but  on  aeration  will  sustain  some  hardy  plants  most  of  which 
are  vigorous  weeds. 

Suckers: 

Adventitious  shoots  appearing  on  the  roots  or  stems  of  plants.  When 
they  come  on  grafted  plants,  arising  below  the  graft,  they  are  of  the 
same  variety  as  the  root,  not  the  variety  of  the  top. 

Suffocating  Root  Systems: 

A  cause  of  abnormal  loss  among  newly  transplanted  stock,  especially 
the  shallow-rooted  type  of  trees,  such  as  beech,  maple,  elm,  and  birch. 
The  smaller  feeding  roots  are  deprived  of  properly  aerated  soil  because 
of  excessive  depth  of  fill  over  the  roots  or  because  of  compact  clay  soil 


GLOSSARY  373 

being  filled  around  the  base  of  the  trees  during  the  transplanting 
operation. 

Sun-scald: 

An  injury  to  the  cambium  layer  of  a  plant  caused  by  the  heat  of  the 
sun's  rays;  also  a  burning  of  the  leaves  of  certain  plants. 

Suppressed  Growth: 

Growth  in  shaded  areas  that  has  been  retarded  because  of  a  lack  of 
sunlight. 

Tamping: 

The  operation  of  making  firm  and  solid  all  earth  filled  around  roots 
of  newly  transplanted  stock.  It  helps  to  eliminate  unnecessary  air 
spaces. 

Tap-root: 

A  long  central  root  running  deep  into  the  soil. 

Tip-burn: 

The  condition  of  the  edge  of  leaves  of  plants  caused  by  too  luxuriant 
growth  followed  by  excessive  heat  and  drought. 

Topiary  Work: 

The  cutting  and  trimming  of  shrubs  and  trees,  especially  evergreens, 
into  odd  or  ornamental  shapes,  thus  producing  an  effect  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  that  produced  by  the  natural  growing  habits  of  the  plant. 
(Birds,  vases,  urns,  etc.) 

Top-dressing: 

A  thin  layer  of  manure  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  no  at^ 
tempt  being  made  to  work  it  into  the  soil. 

Top-pruning: 

The  pruning  of  the  top  of  a  plant,  especially  the  removal  of  the  leader, 
to  cause  the  plant  to  spread  over  a  wider  area  and  attain  less  height. 
Sometimes  called  "  topping." 

Topsoil: 

A  term  applied  to  that  part  of  the  earth's  surface  which  is  tilled  and 
consists  of  a  soil  ranging  from  a  sandy  loam  to  a  clayey  loam,  contain- 
ing the  chief  elements  necessary  to  support  vegetation,  in  a  condition 
readily  made  available  as  plant  food,  and  containing  sufficient  moist- 
ure to  support  plant  life.  Usually  consisting  of  the  top  layer  of 
virgin  soil  (four  inches  to  eighteen  inches  deep). 


374  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Is  the  result  of  the  action  of  heat,  frost,  air,  cultivation,  surface  or  rain 
water,  soil  bacteria,  etc.  It  is  of  finer  particles  than  the  subsoil, 
darker  in  colour,  and  looser  in  texture,  and  is  rich  in  organic  matter. 
A  good  topsoil,  thoroughly  dried,  should  contain  30  to  40  per  cent, 
voids,  when  well  shaken  down  in  a  box;  that  is  30  to  40  per  cent,  of 
its  own  volume  of  water  should  fill  it  to  saturation  but  not  increase 
the  volume  of  the  soil.  It  should  contain  from  40  to  60  per  cent, 
of  this  amount  of  water  to  properly  support  plant  life. 

Training: 

A  procedure  consisting  principally  of  judicious  pruning  to  adapt 
plants  to  limited  areas  or  to  form  particular  shapes,  also  to  encourage 
the  formation  of  flowers  and  fruit. 

Transpiration: 

The  giving  off  of  water  vapour  through  the  leaf  pores  of  the  plant. 

Transplanting : 

To  remove  a  plant  from  one  location  and  plant  it  in  another  location. 

Tree: 

A  woody  perennial,  having  a  single  main  trunk. 

Tree  Pit: 

A  pocket  or  pit  excavated  to  permit  the  introduction  of  sufficient 
fertile  soil  to  support  a  tree;  a  common  practice  in  planting  street 
trees  in  city  streets.  The  surface  of  the  soil  in  the  pit  should  be  suf- 
ficiently lower  than  the  surrounding  area  so  that  much  of  the  rain 
falling  on  the  surrounding  area  will  flow  to  the  pit,  and  the  bottom 
of  the  pit  must  be  well  drained  to  remove  excess  water. 

Trench: 

v.  To  spade  ground  so  deeply  that  the  digging  of  ditches  is  nec- 
essary; hence  to  spade  ground  to  two  or  more  times  the  depth  of  a 
spade.  In  landscape  work  trenching  is  usually  done  for  the  purpose 
of  saving  good  topsoil  that  has  been  buried  under  useless  subsoil  and 
also  for  the  purpose  of  mixing  manure  and  fertilizers  into  soil  to  a 
depth  of  one  or  more  feet,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  large  trees  and 
garden  areas. 

Turf: 

The  upper  stratum  of  earth  which  is  filled  with  roots  of  grass;  sod. 


PLATE  LXII.  Used  as  a  tree  for  screen  effects,  specimen  planting,  or 
hedges,  the  Australian  pine  is  throughout  southern  Florida  one  of  the  most 
freely  used  plants.  (See  page  3 10,  group  XLIII-J) 


GLOSSARY  375 

Vase  Form: 

In  a  plant,  a  manner  of  growth  where  the  top  springs  from  a  single 
stem  and  spreads  outward  toward  the  top  as  the  shape  commonly 
taken  by  the  American  elm  when  growing  in  the  open.  For  hedges  see 
Plate  V. 

Vista: 

A  view  or  prospect;  commonly  through  or  along  an  avenue  of  trees. 

Wall  Garden: 

A  garden  made  by  planting  small  plants  in  the  crevices  between  the 
stones  in  a  dry  wall  which  is  acting  to  support  an  earth  embankment. 

Warm  Soil: 

A  soil  in  which  temperature  conditions  are  such  that  normal  root 
growth  is  active,  and  the  root  fibres  attach  themselves  to  the  minute 
particles  of  soil. 

Water  Garden: 

A  garden  having  a  predominance  of  water-loving  plants,  with  pools  to 
sustain  them. 

Water-soaked  Soil: 

A  soil  where  excess  moisture  conditions  cause  the  air  voids  to  become 
clogged  with  water  and  air  to  be  entirely  excluded,  thus  causing  a 
condition  termed  "drowning-out"  of  root  systems. 

Wild  Garden: 

A  garden  on  which  little  work  has  been  done  to  disturb  natural  con- 
ditions, or  a  garden  deliberately  made  to  imitate  natural  conditions, 
the  planting  consisting  chiefly  of  native  plants,  planted  to  get 
natural  effects. 

Wilt: 

n.     A  parasitic  disease  generally  caused  by  the  anthracnose  fungus. 

Windbreak: 

A  planting  composed  of  plants  placed  in  such  location  as  to  shield  cer- 
tain areas  from  undesirable  winds,  usually  the  cold  northwest  winds  of 
winter. 

Wind-burn: 

An  injury  caused  by  the  drying  effect  of  wind  upon  soft  bark  or  leaves 
of  a  plant. 


376  THE  COMPLETE  GARDEN 

Winter-killing: 

The  death  of  plants  in  winter  due  generally  to  sudden  changes  of  tem- 
perature or  to  the  ground  becoming  frozen  too  deeply. 

Yellows: 

A  diseased  leaf  condition  due  to  the  breaking  down  or  oxidizing  of  the 
plant  leaf  tissue  caused  by  a  ferment. 

Zone  (Planting) 

An  area  characterized  by  a  planting  season  of  similar  duration  and 
dates  for  beginning  and  ending. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


For  the  scientific  names  used  in  this  book  the  author's  authority  is  The  Standard  Cyclopedia  of  Horticulture 
and  the  Official  Code  of  Standardized  Plant  Names,  which  latter  has  not  been  followed  absolutely  in  every  in- 
stance, though  an  earnest  endeavor  has  been  made  to  make  the  names  conform  to  this  nomenclature. 

It  has  been  necessary  to  invent  a  few  common  names  as  no  book  in  common  use  furnished  a  satisfactory  name 
for  many  of  the  less  well  known  plants.  Many  of  these  common  names  were  taken  from  Britton's  Manual 
and  from  the  excellent  catalogues  issued  some  years  ago  by  the  Biltmore  Nursery.  The  botanical  or  scientific 
names  are  indicated  in  italics.  The  group  numbers  refer  to  subdivisions  of  the  table  of  contents. 


Aaron's  Beard 
NAME 

Aaron's  Beard     . 
Abeliq  chinensis  . 

Chinese 

floribunda   . 

grandiflora . 


Himalayan 
Hybrid 


Mexican 

triflora 

Abies  (in  variety) 

balsamea 

brachyphylla     .... 

concolor 

concolor  globosa  (spherical) 

fraseri  

grandis 

nobilis 

nordmanniana . 

veitchi 

Abrus  precatorius 
Abyssinian  Banana  . 
Acacia  armala     .... 

farnesiana 

Acalypha  hispida 

wilkesiana 

Acanthus 

Accent  trees  and  shrubs 
Acer  (in  variety) 

campestre 

circinatum 

ginnala 

macrophyllum  .... 

negundo 

palmatum  and  varieties   . 


pennsylvanicum 
platanoides. 
platanoides  globosum  . 
platanoides  schwedleri. 
pseudoplatantts 
rubrum 


rubrum  drummondi     . 
saccharinum     . 
saccharinum  pyramidale 
saccharum  . 


saccharum  monumentale  . 

tataricum 

Achillea  boule  de  neige  . 

filipendula 

ptarmica  flore  plena    . 

tomentosa 

Achyranthes,  Narrow-leaved 

Round-leaved 


GROUP 

28-B,  29-E-b,  29-H,  45-F-a  . 

45-B-a 

45-B-a 

45-B-a,  45-F-b,  45-F-d     .      .      . 
16-C,  22-C-b,  4Q-C-b,  43-E-b,  43-F-a, 

45-B-a,  45-F-d,  46-C-a,  46-H-b    .      . 

45-B-a 

16-C,  22-C-b.  40-C-b,  43-E-b,  43-F-a, 

45-B-a,  45-F-d,  46-C-a,  46-H-b    .      . 

45-B-a,  45-F-b,  45-F-d 

45-B-a 

14-A-a,  42-D 

9-C,  24-C-a,  28-A,  46-E 

9-A,  9-B,  14-A-b,  16-D-b-2,  24-C-a  . 
9-A,  9-B,  11-A,  14-A-b,  44-F,  46-H-a  . 

9-E 

9-C 

46-H-a 

46-H-a 

9-C 

9-A,  9-B,  24-C-a 

43-C-a 

16-C 

45-B-a 

43-F-c,  43-J-b 

43-E-a,  43-F-d,  43-1.       ...     .     .      . 

32-G-b-l 

31-M-b 

14 

30-A,  30-B 

12-A-b,  16-B-b,  16-D-a,  45-B-b.      .     . 

46-C-b,  46-F 

12-C,  22-A,  25-A,  26-B-a,  46-F  .     .      . 

46-D 

10-C,  12-C,  22-A,  23-A,  44-C-a  .  .  . 
14-A-a,  15-B,  22-B,  40-C-b,  44-G, 

46-C-a 

21,  27 

10-B,  22-C-a,  44-E-b,  46-D  .... 

16-B-b 

14-A-a 

46-D     . 

19-A.    20-B,    22-A,    24-A-a,    24-C-a, 

26-A-a,  38-C-b,  40-B,  43-B-a,  44-C-a, 

46-F 

38-C-b 

10-C,  12-E-e,  23-A,  40-B,  44-E-b  .  . 
12-C,  12-D,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l  . 
10-A,  22-A,  24-C-a,  28-A,  44-C-a, 

44-E-a 

14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l 

12-C,  44-A-b 

15-C,  31-B-f,  31-1 

24-E '-.     . 

31-D,  31-E 

29-A,  31-B-h 

32-G-b-2,  35-B-c 

32-G-b-l 

379 


Achyranthes 

PAGE 

197,  207,  209,  324 

320 

320 

320,  324,  326 

146,  174,  290,  305,  320, 

326,  336,  339 
320 
146,  174,  290,  305,  320 

326,  336,  339 
320,  324,  326 
320 

133,  298 

113,  182,  196,  337 
111,  112,  134,  147,  182 
111,  112,  119,  134,  316,  339 
114 
113 
339 
339 
113 

111,  112,  182 
302 
146 
320 

306,  310 
305,  307,  309 
244 
235 
132 
212 

124,  145,  146,  321 
337,338 

125,  173,  186,  191,  338 
337 

117,  125,  173,  177,  314 

133,  139,  173,  290,  316,  336 
169,  193 

117,  173,  315,  337 
145 
133 
337 

154,  162,  173,  180,  182,  189, 
281,  289,  301,  314,  338 

281 

117,  126,  177,  289,  315 

125,  134,  144,  147, 

116,  173,  182,  196,  314,  315 

134,  144,  147 
125,  313 
139,  224,  232 
184 

229 

203,225 
244,  266 
244 


Aconite 


380 


Allium 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Aconite,  Winter  

36-B      

270 

Aconitum  (in  variety)    . 

31-B-i,  31-N,  45-1       .... 

226,  236,  329 

autumnale  

31-H      

232 

fischeri  

31-G      

231 

napellus      

31-G,  38-A.     .     .     . 

231,  279 

u'ilsoni  

31-E      

229 

Acorus  japonicus  variegatus 

31-L-b  . 

234 

Actaea  (in  variety)   .... 

45-J      

331 

alba  

31-C-a  

227 

spicata  

28-B 

197 

Actinidia  (in  variety)     . 

24-B-c,  24-C-c,  34-C,  34-D,  34-E    .      . 

182,  183,  260,  261 

25-C,  34-A.           .      .      . 

187,  260 

chinensis     

45-L      .... 

332 

polygama    
Adam's  Needle   

25-C      
18-A,  24-E,  29-B,  29-G,  31-B-f,  33-E-g, 

187 
151,   184,  205,  209,  225,  253, 

37-A-c,  42-B-b,  43-1,  45-A-b,  45-B-a, 

277,  297,  310,  321,  320,  325 

45-F-b    

Drooping-leaved  .... 

18-A,  45-A-b    

151,  320 

Early-flowering     .... 

45-F-b  .... 

325 

Late-flowering       .... 

45-F-b  

325 

Adaptation,  Plants  in  general  . 

6 

Evergreens      

6 

Adder's-tongue    

29-H,  36-B,  45-J  . 

209.  271,  331 

43-B-b  

301 

Adiantum  pedatum   .... 

28-B,  29-D-b,  45-J 

197,  206,  331 

Adlumia  ctrrhosa      .... 

32-F-a  .      .      . 

242 

Adonis  vernalis    

31-B-d,  45-1     .     .      . 

223,329 

Aegopodium  podagraria. 

29-C      .      . 

205 

Aesculus  (in  variety) 
hippocastanum       .... 

14-A-a,  19-B,  42-C     . 
10-C,  11-A,  20-F  .      . 

133,  155,  298 
117,  119,  167 

kippocastanum  rubicunda 

46-D     

337 

indica    

45-C     . 

321 

octandra      

45-C      

321 

Parviflora    

14-B,  19-G-b   .     . 

135,  158     . 

wilsoni  

45-C      

321 

African  Corn  Lily    .... 

36-E-a  . 

274 

Agapantkus  umbellatus  . 

16-C      

146 

Agave        

43-1       

309 

Ageratum  (in  variety)    . 

43-1       

309 

32-A,    32-B,    32-E,    32-G-b-2,    35-A-a, 

240,  241,  242,  244,  264,  265 

35-A-c     

Imperial  Dwarf  Blue  . 

32-G-3-2     .... 

244 

Imperial  Dwarf  White 

32-G-a-2     .      .     . 

244 

Ailanthus  altissima  .... 

24-D     .      .      . 

183 

glandulosa  

10-B,  11-A,  20-F,  23-A,  45-C      .      . 

117,  119,  167,  177,  321 

Ajuga  genevensis  

31-B-a  

222 

reptans        

28-B,  29-A,  29-C  . 

197,  203,  205 

Akebia,  Divided-leaved. 

22-C-b-2  

175 

Five-leaved     

22-C-b-2,24-C-c,  34-D,  44-G 

175,  183,  261,  316 

lobata    

22-C-b-2  

175 

quinata  

22-C-b-2,24-C-c,  34-D,  44-G      .     .     . 

175,  183,  261,  316 

Albizzia  julibrissin    .... 

43-B-a,  45-H-a,  45-K-a   

301,  327,  331 

lebbek    

43-B-b  

301 

Alder        

30-A,  39     .      .      . 

212,284 

Black    

24-A-a,  25-A    

180,186 

Dwarf  

45-F-a  

324 

Smooth      

24-A-a  26-A-c       

180,  190 

Southern  Dwarf   .... 

45-F-a  

324 

Speckled     

24-A-a,  26-A-c      

180,  190 

Woolly-leaved  White.     .     . 

45-F-c  

325 

Aleurites  fordi      

45-H-a,  45-K-a     

327,  361 

triloba    

43-B-b  .      . 

301 

Alisma  plantago  

31-L-b  

234 

Alkaline  soils,  Trees  and  shrubs 

for  

24-D     . 

183 

Alkanet    

24-E,  45-1  

184,330 

Caucasian  

24-E     

184 

Italian  

31-B-a        

222,  illus.  294 

Allamanda  (in  variety) 

16-C,  43-J-c     
43-C-a  

146,  311 
302 

43-C-a  

302 

43-F-c  

306 

Purple  

43-F-e  

307 

43-F-e  

307 

Vine     

16-C,  43-J-c     

146,  311 

43-C-a  

302 

William's   

43-C-a  

302 

Yellow       

43-F-c  .... 

306,  illus.  375 

Allee,  Open         

16-D-b       

147,  illus.  190,  191 

Pleached    

16-D-a  

146 

Alleghany  Stewartia      .     .     . 

14-B,  19-D,  19-G-b,  45-H-b.      .      .      . 

135,  156,  159,  329 

Alleghany  Vine         .... 

32-F-a  

242 

Allium  moly  

36-B.  45-J  

270,  331 

Almond 


NAME 

Almond,  Flowering  . 
Alnus  (in  variety)    . 

glutinosa 

incana 

ru%osa  serrulata     . 
Alpine  Plants      .     .     .     . 
Alstroemeria  chilensis     . 
Alternanthera      . 

Narrow-leaved 

Round-leaved 
Althaea  officinalis 

rosea     

rosea  alba 

rosea — yellow  . 
Alyssum  (in  variety) 

argenteum         . 

Lilac  Sweet      . 

maritimum 

maritimum  Lilac  Queen  . 

maritimum  Little  Gem     . 

maritimum  variegatum 

saxalile 

saxatile  compactum 

Sweet 

Variegated-leaved  Sweet 

White  Sweet    .     .     .     . 
Amanita  muscaria    . 

phalloides 

Amaranth,  Globe 

Amaryllis 

Amelanchier  (in  variety) 

canadensis        .      .      .      . 

oblongifolia       . 

rotundifolia  ,      , 

Amorpha  (in  variety)     . 

canescens 

fruticosa 

tennessensis      . 
Ampelopsis  aconitifolia  . 

engelmanni 

Engelmann's  . 

heterophylla      . 

quinquefolia     .     .     .     . 


triscuspidata  loivi  . 

triscuspidala  eeitchi 
Anagallis 
Anchusa  (in  variety) 

italica   .... 

mysotidiflora    . 
Andromeda    . 

polifolia 
Anemone  coronaria   . 

joponica     .     .     . 


nemorosa 

Pennsylvania  ..... 

Poppy-flowered     .... 

sylvestris 

White  Wood 

Angelica  Tree 

Five-leaved 

Annual  Meadow  Grass  .     . 
Annuals 

Carpet  Bedding,  annuals  for. 

Cut  flowers,  valuable  for 

Design  Bedding,  annuals  for. 

Difficult  to  transplant     . 

Early  blossoming 

Ground  cover,  sown  for  . 

Planted  in  several  sowings  to 
insure  succession  of  bloom. 

Started   indoors  to  produce 
good  bloom  before  frost    . 

Transplanting  of        ... 

Vines 

Delicate  foliage.     .     .     . 

Heavy  foliage    .... 

Anthemis  (in  variety)     ,      .      . 

tinctoria  kelwayi    .... 
Antigonon  leptopus  .... 


38l 

GROUP 

13-A-b,  14-B,  19-E-a,  44-G  . 

30-A 

24-A-a,  25-A    . 

24-A-a,  26-A-c 

24-A-a,  26-A-c 

15    ... 

45-1       .      . 

32-G-a-l 

32-G-a-l 

32-G-a-l 

45-J      .      . 

31-B-g.31-E.31-N    . 

31-B-f  . 

31-B-h  .      . 

43-1,  45-1    . 

15-C      .      . 

32-G-3-2     . 

29-1,  32-A  .      . 

32-G-3-2     .      . 

32-B,  32-G-3-2 

32-G-a-l     .     . 

31-B-d  .     . 

15-C,  29-A. 

29-1,  32-A  32-B    . 

32-G-a-l 

32-G-3-2 

38-A     . 

38-A 

32-A 

43-1       ... 

20-D-a,  22-B,  41 

13-B-c        

17.  19-A,  26-B-a,  27  .     , 

13-A-b,  17 

45-J 

18-B      .     . 

13-B-b,  19-H,  42-A-b.     . 

45-F-a 

25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  34-E 

34-B,  46-G.     . 

34-B,  46-G.      . 

25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  34-E 

20-D-a,  22-B,  24-B-c,  25-C,  26-A-c, 
29-E-c,  34-C,  34-D,  43-C-a,  44-B-b, 
44-C-b,  45-A-b 

34-B 

34-B,  45-A-b,  46-G     '. 

32-B 

45-1 

24-E,  31-B-a,  31-H 

24-E 

26-A-c         

18-A,  33-E-b 

45-1 

31-A,  31-B-j,  31-B-k,  31-F,  31-H,  31-1, 
31-K-a,  40-B 

40-C-a 

15-C,  28-B,  31-B-b,  31-C-a,  40-A    .     . 

45-1 

31-B-b 

40-C-a 

24-C-b,  42-B-b 

13-A-b,  22-C-b-l 

38-C-a 

32 

32-G 

32-A 

32-H 

32-C 

32-E 

32-B 


Antigonon 


32-D 
32-E 


32-F 

32-F-a 

32-F-b 

37-B-b 

31-A,  31-B-h,  31-D,  31-H.  31-K-c,  45-1 
43-C-a,  45-L 


PAGE 

129,  135,  157,  317 

212 

180,  186 

180  190 

180,  190 

136 

329 

243 

243 

243 

331 

225,  229,  236 

224 

225 

309,329 

139 

244 

210,  240 

244 

241,  244 

243 

223 

139,  203 

210,  240.  241 

243 

244 

279 

279 

240 

309 

165,  173,  293 

131 

149,  154,  191,  193 

129,  149 
331 

151 

130,  159,  297 
323 

187,  207,  261 
260,  338 
260,  338 
187,  207,  261 

165,   173,   182,   187.  190,  207, 
260,  261,  302,  314,  319, 

260 

260,  319,  338 

241 

330 

184,  222,  231 

184 

190 

151,  252 

330 

221,  226,   230,  231,  232,   233, 

289,  illus.  303 
290 

139,  197,  222,  227,  289 
330 
222 
290 

182,  297 
129,  174 
281 

237,  illus.  287,  334 
243 
239 
245 
241 
242 
240 

241 

242 

51 

242 

242 

242 

277 

221,  225,  229,  231.  234,  330 

302,  332 


Antirrhinum 

NAME 
Antirrhinum  (in  variety) 

382 

GROUP 
35-A-a,  35-A-b 

mains    
majus  nanum  

31-J,  32-A,  32-E,  32-H-b,  45-1   .      .      . 
32-H-a  

Aphananthe  aspera    .... 

45-H-a  . 

Apple       

39    . 

Aquatic  Plants    

31-L 

Aquilegia  (in  variety)    . 
caerulea      

31-A  31-1,  31-K-a,  31-N,  40-A,  45-1     . 
31-H     

caerulea  hybrida     .... 

31-B-a  

15-C,  31-B-c,  31-C-a 

chrvsanthti  

31-B-d,  31-H   . 

formosa  hybrida     .... 

31-B-c  .      . 

hybrida  Rose  Queen   . 

31-B-c  .... 

hybrida  

31-F      . 

nivea  grandi  flora    .... 

31-B-b  

31-C-a  .      . 

Arabis  (in  variety)   .... 

45-J 

albida    

29-F,  31-B-b,  37-A-c  . 

alpina    ....... 
alpina  nana  compacta 

24-E,  29-A,  29-F,  31-B-b      .... 
15-C                 .      . 

Aralia  (in  variety)    .... 

24-C-b,  42-B-b      .     . 

pentnphylla      

13-A-b,  22-C-b-l  .... 

racemosa     

28-B      

11-B,  20-B,  43-F-a,  45-H-a  . 

Araucaria  excelsa      .... 

43-B-b  

Arborvitae     

12-A-a,  14-A-a,  30-A,  39,  42-E  .      .      . 

American   
Columnar  Oriental 

9-B,  9-D,  24-A-a,  24-C-a,  44-F  .      .      1 
14-A-b  . 

Compact    

9-E 

Douglas'     

9  A 

Dwarf  

9-E       

Elwanger's.      

9-E,  12-B  

Fastigiate        

14-A-b  . 

George  Peabody's  Golden 

9-A 

Globe    

9-A,  9-E,  12-B,  18-A 

Hovey's      

9-E 

£ipanese    

9-C 

ittle  Gem  
Oriental      .      .  •  .     .     .     . 

9-A,  9-E,  18-A      
9-B,  16-D-b-2,  45-B-a,  45-D      .     .     . 

Pyramidal        
Pyramidal  Oriental    . 

9-A,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-C  
45-E     

Rosenthal's      ...           . 

9-A 

Siberian      

9-A,  9-B,  16-D-b-2     .      .      . 

Tall  Pointed    

9-A       

Tom  Thumb    

12-B 

Vervaene's  

9-A       .      . 

Western     

16-D-b-2    . 

Woodward's  Dwarf    . 

9-E 

Arbutus,  Trailing     .... 
menziesi      

29-A,  30-A,  33-E-b,  37-A-c,  40-C-a.      . 
46-H-b  

unedo     

45-G,  45-K-b   . 

Arclotis  grandis   

32-A      . 

Arctostaphylos  uea-ursi  . 
Ardisia     

28-  A,  29-B,  29-E-a,  33-E-b,  46-B-a. 
45-F-b  

crenulata     

45-G,  45-K-b  . 

crenulata  rubra      .... 

45-F-b  

Scallop-leaved  

45-G,  45-K-b  

revoluta  

43-D     . 

Arenaria  caespitosa  .... 

29-B      .     . 

montana      

15-C,  24-E.      .     .     .     . 

Argemone  (in  variety)    .      .      . 

45-1       

Argentine  Monkey's  Comb 

43-C-a  .      . 

Arisaema  triphyllum. 

38-A      

Aristolochia  elegans  .... 
sip  ho    •  

43-C-a  .... 
34-A,  34-C,  34-E  .      . 

Armeria  (in  variety) 
maritima     

31-K-b,  45-J    
29-A,  29-F,  29-G  . 

maritima  alba  

31-B-b  .      .     . 

maritima  laucheana     . 

.  31-B-c        

Arnalto     

43-D     

Aronia  (in  variety)  .... 

20-D-a  . 

arbulifolia  
melanocarpa     

13-B-b,  24-A-a,  28-A,  29-H  .      . 
13-B-b,  24-A-a,  28-A,  45-F-c      .      .     . 

Arrowhead.'Giant    .... 

31-L-b  

Arrow-wood  

19-C,  22-B,  26-A-c,  27     . 

Downy-leaved  

27    

Artemisia  (in  variety)    . 
obrolonum  
dracunculus      

42-B-b,  45-1     
24-E,  27-B-b   
37-B-b  .... 

frigida         

38-C-a  

lactiftora      
sericea 

31-B-f,  31-B-j.  37-A-c      
44-B-a  . 

Artemisia 


264 

233, 

245 

327 

284 

234. 

221, 

231 

222 

139, 

223, 

223 

223 

230 

222 

227 

331 

208, 

184, 

139 

182, 

129, 

197 

120, 

301 

124, 

113, 

135 

114 

112 

114 

114, 

135 

112 

112, 

114 

113 

112, 

113, 

112, 

323 

112 

112, 

112 

125 

112 

147 

114 

204, 

339 

327, 

240 

196, 

324 

327, 

324 

327, 

304 

204 

139. 

330 

303 

279 

302 

260, 

233, 

204, 

223 

223 

304 

165 

130, 

130, 

234 

156, 

193 

297, 

184, 

277 

280 

224, 

313 


PAGE 


240,  242,  246,  330 


ill  us.  318 

232,  233,  236,  289,  330 


223,  227 
231 


222,  276 
203,  208,  223 

297 
174 

162,  305,  327 

134,  212,  284,  298 
180,  182,  316 


125 

114,  125,  151 


114,  151 
147,  321,  322 
135,  145,  146 


113,  147 


212,  253,  277,  290 

332 

204,  206,  252,  336 

332 

332 

184 


261 
331 
208,209 


180,  196,  209 
180,  196,  325 

173,  190,  193 

330 
277 


226,  276 


Artemisia 


383 


Australian  Pine 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Artemisia  atelier iana ....  24-E 184 

Artobotrys  odoratissimus      .      .  43-F-c 306 

Aruncus  Sylvester       ....  31-B-f,  31-C-a,  31-L-c 224,  227,  234 

Arundo  donax 31-E 229 

Asarum  arifolium     ....  45-A-a 319 

canadense 29-H 209 

tirginicum 45-A-a 319 

Asclepias  incarnata  ....  31-L-c 234 

rubra 24-A-a 180 

tuberosa 31-C-a,  45-1 .  227, 330 

Ash,  American  Mountain    .      .  25- A,  44-E-b 186,  315 

Biltmore 45-C 321 

European  Mountain  .      .      .  10-C,  20-B 117,163 

Mountain 20-D-b,  42-C 166,  298 

Pyramidal  Mountain.      .      .  14-A-b 135 

Oak-leaved  Mountain      .     .  14-A-a,  16-D-b-l 134,  147 

Red 45-H-a 328 

Silver-leaved  White   .     .      .  45-H-a 328 

Water 45-C 321 

White 22-B,  24-A-a,   25-A,    44-C-b,    44-E-a,  173.  180,  186,  314.  315,  337 

46-D 

Ash  Trees 10-B,  11-A,  39 117,  119,  284 

Asiatic  Creeper 25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  34-E      ....  187,  207,  261 

Asimina  triloba 20-A 162 

Asparagus  Fern 35-A-c,  35-B-a 265, 

Asparagus  sprengeri       .     .     .  35-A-c,  35-B-a 265, 

Aspen,  Trembling    ....  21          170 

Asperula  hexaphylla.      .      .      .  31-C-b 228 

odorata 29-A,  29-F,  37-A-c,  37-B-b   ....  204,  208,  276,  277 

Aspidistra  lurida       ....  35-B-c  266 

Tall  Evergreen      ....  35-B-c        266 

Aspidium  acroslichoides .      .      .  28-B,  29-D-a,  29-D-b,  33-E-b    .      .      .  197, 206,  252 

cristotum 29-D-b 206 

toldieanum 29-D-b 206 

marginale 28-B,  29-D-a,  29-D-b,  31-C-b    .      .      .  197,  206,  228, 

Asplenium  ebeneum  ....  29-D-a 206 

filix-foemina 29-D-b 206 

trichomanes 29-D-a 206 

Assonia  natalfnsis    ....  43-F-a 305 

Pink 43-F-b 306 

punctata 43-F-b 306 

White 43-F-a 305 

Aster  (in  variety)      ....  30-A,    31-A,    31-B-i,    31-B-j,    31-B-k,  212,  221,  226,  229,  230,  234, 

31-E,  31-F,  31-L-c,  31-M-b,  39    .      .  235,284 

acuminatus 28-B 197 

Blue  Hardy 31-1,  43-1 232,  309 

Bog 24-A-a 180 

cordifolius 28-B,  31-C-a 197,  227 

corymbosus 28-B,  31-C-a 197,  227 

ericoides 29-B,  31-C-a,  38-C-a        .....  204, 227, 280 

Hardy 30-A,  31-B-j,  31-E,  31-F,  31-L-c      .      .  212,  226,  229,  230,  234 

Hardy  Garden      ....  31-K-c,  38-C-a 234, 280 

nemoralis 24-A-a 180 

novae-angliae 31-K-c,  38-C-a 234, 280 

novae-angliae  CYuaxx..      .      .  31-H,  31-1, 43-1 232,309 

novi-belgi 31-K-c 234 

patens 28-B 197 

Sharp-leaved 28-B 197 

Spreading 28-B 197 

Starwort 28-B,  31-C-a 197,  227 

Stokes' 15-C,  31-B-e,  31-1 140, 224, 232 

White  Heath 29-B,  31-C-a,  38-C-a 204,227,280 

Wild 28-B.  31-C-a    ...  ...  197,227 

Woody 38-A 279 

Astilbe  biternata 30-A 212 

davidi 31-B-g,  31-L-c 225,  234 

g-randis 31-E 229 

Japanese 12-B,  19-C,  31-B-f,  31-1 124.  155,  224,  232 

japonica 12-B,  19-C,  31-B-f,  31-1 124,  155,  224.  232 

Large-flowered      ....  31-E 229 

Asystasia  bella 43-F-e 207 

Atropa  belladonna     ....  38-A 279 

Aubrietia  deltoidea    ....  29-F,  33-E-b 208,  252 

deltoidea  graeca      ....  31-B-a 222 

Avcuba  japonica 16-C.   45-F-b.  45-G,   45-H-b,  45-K-b,  146,  324.  327,  329.  332,  335. 

46-A-b,  46-H-b 339 

japonica  latitnaculata .      .      .  45-F-b 324 

japonica  tariegata ....  45-H-b 329 

Australian  Pine 43-A,  43-B-b,  43-J-a  ......  301.  302.  310.  illus.  374 


Autumn  Colouration 

384 

Barberry 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Autumn  Colouration  of  Leaves 

22   . 

171,  illus.  247 

Early    

22-A      

173 

Late      

22-C      

173 

Coloured  foliage 

22-C-a  

173 

22-C-b  

174 

Shrubs      

22-C-b-l     

174 

Vines  

22-C-b-2     

175 

Medium     

22-B      

173 

Autumn  flowering 

Perennials  .     .     .     .  '    . 

31-B-k  . 

226 

Shrubs  

19-D     

156 

Avens       

30-B,  31-B-c,  31-D     

212,  223,  229 

Orange        

31-B-d  

223 

Avenues  (Trees  for)  .... 

10    

115 

Azalea   (in  variety)  See  rhodo- 

14-B, 27,  30-A,  33-E-a,  39,  40-B,  44-G 

135.    193,    212,    252,    284. 

dendron  

289,  316 

amoena  

12-B,  45-B-a,  45-F-b 

124,  320,  324 

13-B-b,  37-A-a      

130,  275 

canescens    

37-A-a,  45-F-a            

275,  323 

Carolina     

13-B-a,  19-A,  19-E-a,  45-F-a      .     .     . 

130,  154,  157,  323,  illus.  214 

Crimson  Evergreen    . 

46-C-a  

336 

Flame-coloured     .... 

13-B-a,  19-A,  19-F-b       

130,  154,  158 

Fragrant  Mountain    . 

37-A-a,  45-F-a      

275,  323 

45-F-a        

323 

Ghent  

45-F-a  

323 

Hardy  Evergreen. 

12-B,  45-B-a,  45-F-b       

124,  320,  324 

Hardy  Indian       . 

45-F-b  

324 

46-C-a  

336 

Indian  

43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d,  43-F-e,   43-H, 

305,  306,  307,  308,  324,  336 

45-F-b,  46-C-a 

indica   

43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d,  43-F-e,  43-H, 

305,  306,  307,  308,  324,  336 

45-F-b,  46-C-a  

indica  kaemfiferi   .... 

45-F-b  

324 

Japanese    

15-B,  19-B,  45-F-a     

139,  155,  323 

15-B,  19-B  

139.  155 

lutea      

13-B-a,  19-A,  19-F-b       .     .     .     .     . 

130,  154,  158 

mollis    

45-F-a  

323 

Native  

27    

193 

nudiflora     

13-B-a,    15-B,    19-A,    19-E-a,    24-B-b, 

130,   139,   154,   157,   181,  323 

45-F-a    

45-F-b  

324 

Orange-flowered    .... 

45-F-b  

324 

Pontic        

45-F-a  

323 

pontica       

45-F-a        

323 

Smooth      

13-B-b,  37-A-a      

130,275 

Swamp       

19-G-a,  37-A-a,  45-F-a    

158,  276,  323 

raseyi    

13-B-a,  19-A,  19-E-a,  45-F-a      .     .      . 

130,  154,  157,  323 

viscosa  

19-G-a,  37-A-a,  45-F-a    

158,  276,  323 

Baby's  Breath    

31-B-f,  31-1,  32-A,  32-C,  32-D,  43-1  . 

225,  232,  240,  241,  309 

Pink      

32-C      

241 

Baby's  Slippers  

29-F      

208 

Baccharis  halimifolia 
Bald  Cypress      

19-D,  26-A-c,  43-D,  45-F-c  .... 
14-A-a,  16-D-b-l,  24-A-a,  45-E,  45-H-a. 

156,  190,  304,  325 
134,  147,  180,  323,  329 

14-A-b  

135 

Balm  of  Gilead  

37-B-b  

277 

Ball  of  Snow  

15-C,  31-B-f,  31-1  

139,  224,  232 

Balloon  Flower   

24-E,  31-B-e,  45-1       

184,  224,  330 

Balloon  Vine  

32-F-a  

242 

Balsam,  Garden        .... 

32-A      

240 

Bamboo   

43-E-a,  43-1,  45-H-b  

305,  309,  329 

Silver    

43-A      

301 

Striped  

43-A      

301 

Bambusa  (in  variety)     . 

43-1,  45-H-b    

309,329 

argentea      

43-A     

301 

disticha  

43-E-a  

305 

striata   

43-A      

301 

Banana     

43-D     

304 

Banana  Shrub     

43-F-c,  45-F-d,  45-K-b    .     .     .     .     . 

307,  326,  332 

Baneberry            

45-J       

331 

White   

31-C-a  

227 

Baptisia  (in  variety) 

31-M-b,  45-1    

235,330 

australis      

31-B-e,  31-H    

224,231 

tinctojia       

31-B-d  

223 

Barbadoes  Cherry,  Dwarf  . 

43-D     

304 

Barbadoes  Flower  Fence     . 

43-F-c,  43-F-d,  43-  J-b     

307,  310 

Barberry  (in  variety)     . 

19-F-a,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-a,  39  ... 

157,  162,  163,  165,  284 

Allegheny  

45-F-a        

323 

Box-leaved  

45-F-b,  46-C-a,  46-H-b    

324,  336,  339 

Chilean       

45-B-a,  45-F-d,  45-K-b    

320,  326,  332 

Darwin's    

45-F-b,  46-C-a      

324,  336 

Evergreen  ,.,.., 

33-E-b,  45-F-b      

252.  324 

Barberry 

385 

Betula 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Barberry,  Fragrant  .... 

45-F-a 

323 

Holly-leaved    

45-F-b,  45-F-d,  46-C-a,  46-H-b 

324,  326,  336,  339 

Purple-fruited  

45-F-a  .      . 

323 

Siebold's     

45-F-a  .      . 

323 

Small-leaved    

45-F-b,  46-H-b 

324,  339 

Thunberg's  Japanese 

11-B,    12-A-b,    12-B,    12-E-b,    12-E-c, 

120,   124,   126,   128,  145,   173. 

12-E-d,  13-A-a,  16-B-b,  22-B,  24-C-b, 

182,  190,  296,  305,  314,  335, 

26-A-c,      42-A-a,     43-E-b,     44-C-b, 

338 

46-A-a,  46-F 

Wilson's     

22-C-b-l,  45-F-a,  46-F    . 

174,  323,  338 

Barren  Strawberry         .     .     . 

15-C,  45-A-a,  45-J      . 

140,  319,  331 

Barrenwort,  American  . 

15-C      .... 

140 

Japanese    

15-C      

140 

Barriers,  Plants  for  . 

12-A      .... 

123 

Bauhinia  (in  variety)     .      . 

43-B-b  .      .      . 

302 

acuminatu  

43-F-a  .      . 

306 

purpurea     

43-F-e  .     . 

307 

purpurea  triandra. 

43-F-b  .      .      . 

306 

tomentosa    

43-F-c  

306 

Bayberry  

13-A-a,     13-B-a,     18-B,     20-B,     20-C, 

129.  130,   151,   163,   166.   174. 

20-D-b,  22-C-a,  24-B-b,  25-B,  26-A-c, 

181,  187,  190.  197.  207.  284, 

28-A,  29-E-a,  39,  40-C-a,  43-J-b,  44-G, 

290,  310,  317,  326 

45-F-c     

Bay  Tree.      .      . 

16-C,  45-F-d    . 

146,  326,  illus.  174 

Beaked-rush,  White.      .      .      . 

24-A-a  .... 

180 

Bean,  Scarlet  Runner    . 

32-F-b  .... 

242 

Bearberry      

28-A,  29-B,  29-E-a,  33-E-b,  46-B-a. 

196,  204,  206,  252,  336 

Bear's  Breech      

31-M-b.      .      .      . 

235 

Beaumonlia  grandiflora  . 

43-C-a  .      . 

303 

White-flowered     .... 

43-C-a  

303 

Beauty  Fruit  

13-A-a,  13-B-a,  20-B,  -43-F-e,  45-F-a, 

126,   130,   162,  307,  323,  327, 

45-G,  45-H-b     

329 

Bedding  Plants  for  design  bed- 

ding   

32-H 

245 

Bedstraw,  Northern. 

28-B      .... 

197 

Beech  (in  variety)    .... 

14-A-a,  24-C-a,  30-A,  39. 

133,  182,  212.  284 

American   
European  

12-A-b,  12-C,  21,  22-C-a,  40-C-a,  45-H-a 
12-A-a,    12-C,    12-D,     16-D-a,    40-B, 

124,  125,  170,  174,  290,  328 
123,    125,    146.  289,  291,  316, 

40-C-b,  44-G 

illus.  335 

Fern-leaved  European     .     . 

14-A-a  

133 

Beechdrop      

30-B      

213 

Beechnut  

30-B      

212 

Begonia,  Bedding     .... 

32-G-b-2    

244 

Cherry-red  Bedding  .      .     . 

32-G-b-2     .... 

244 

rex  .... 

32-G-b-2     ....                 ... 

244 

Rex  

32-G-b-2     

244 

semperflorens,    Triomphe    de 

Lorraine  

32-G-b-2     . 

244 

semperflorens,  Vernon 

32-G-b-2     

244 

(tuberous-rooted). 

35-A-b,  35-B-b      

264,266 

Tuberous   

35-A-b,  35-B-b      .      .      . 

264,266 

Belamcanda  chinensis 

30-B,  45-J  

212,  331 

Bellis  perennis     

29-A,  29-F,  31-B-c,  31-J,  31-K-c      .      . 

204,  208,  223,  233,  234 

Bending-road  Planting  . 

18    ...      

150 

Benzoin  aestivale  

19-A,  19-F-a,  20-D-a,  27,  28-A,  30-A,. 

154,   157,   165,   193,   196,  212, 

37-B-a,  40-B,  42-A-a,  44-G,  45-F-c    . 

277,  289,  296,  316,  325 

Berberis  (in  variety) 

19-F-a,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-a  .... 

157,  162,  163,  165 

aristata  

45-F-a        

323 

buxifolia     

45-F-b,  46-C-a,  46-H-b    

324,  336,  339 

canadensis  

45-F-a  

323 

darwini  

45-F-b,  46-C-a      

324,  336 

hakeoides    

45-B-a,  45-F-d,  45-K-b    

320,  326,  332 

heteropoda  

45-F-a         

323 

ilicifolia       

45-F-a,  46-C-a,  46-H-b    

324,  336,  339 

neuberti  latifolia    .... 

45-F-d  

326 

sargentiana  

33-E-b,  45-F-b      

252,  324 

sieboldi       

45-F-a        

323 

slenophylla  

45-F-b,  46-H-b      

324,339 

thunbergi    

11-B,    12-A-b,    12-B,    12-E-b,  12-E-c, 

120,   124,  126,  128,   145,  173, 

12-E-d,  13-A-a,  16-B-b.  22-B,  24-C-b, 

182,  190,  296,  305,  314,  335, 

26-A-c,42-A-a,43-E-b,44-C-b,  46-A-a, 

338 

46-F  

wilsonae      

22-C-b-l,  45-F-a,  46-F      

174,  323,  338 

Berchemia  scandens  .... 

45-L      

332 

racemosa     

45-L      

332 

Bergamot  

31-B-g,  31-K-a,  37-A-c,  37-B-b,  45-J    . 

225,  233,  277,  331 

Wild      

31-C-a  

229 

Bergamot  Berry       .... 

43-D,  43-E-a   

304,  305 

Bermuda  grass  planting 

62,  illus.  41 

Berries,  See  Fruiting  Plants     . 

Betula  (in  variety)    .... 

10-C,    14-A-a,    30-A,    40-B,    40-C-a, 

117.  133,  212,  289,  290 

40-C-b 

alba       

25-A,  46-F  

186.338 

Betula 


386 


Bougainvillea 


NAME 

Betula  alba  fastigiata 

lenta      .... 

lutea      .... 

nigra     .... 

papyrtfera  . 

populifolia .      .      . 
Bibliography. 
Bidens  frondosa  . 
Biennials 
Bignonia  capreolata  . 

ckinensis     . 

hybrida 

radicans 


GROUP 


14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l 

46-F 

22-A,  44-C-a  .  .  . 
21,  22-A,  24-A-a  .  . 
21,  26-A-a,  44-E-b  . 
21,  25-A,  26-A-a  .  . 


speciosa 

unguis-cati . 
Birch  (in  variety)     . 

American  White  . 

Black    .... 

European  White  . 

Paper    .... 

Pyramidal  White 

Red       .... 

Yellow.      .     .     . 
Birds 

Attracted  by  fruits 

Cover  plants  for   . 

Fruits  for  . 
Bitter-sweet  .     .     . 

American  .     .     . 


Chinese 

Japanese 

Bixa  orellana 

Blackberry  Lily  .... 
Black  Haw  .... 
Bladder-nut 

American 

European 

Bladder  Senna  .... 
Blanket  Flower  .... 

Blazing  Star 

Bleeding  Heart  .... 

WUd 

Bloodroot 

Bluebell 

Blueberry 

High-bush       .... 

Low 

Blue  Flowers 

Perennials 

Shrubs 

Blue  Lily-of-the-Nile  .  . 
Bluet 

Creeping 

Mountain 

Bocconia  cor  data .... 
Boggy  soils.  Plants  for  .  . 
Boltonia,  Aster-like  .  . 

asteroides 

Broad-scaled   .... 

lalisquama        .... 

Bombax  ceiba 

Books,  Bibliography  of. 
Border  Planting. 

Collected  native  shrubs  . 
Low-growing  shrubs 
Medium-growing  shrubs 
Tall-growing  shrubs     . 

Refined  lawn  areas     . 
Low-growing  shrubs     . 
Medium-growing  shrubs 
Tall-growing  shrubs     . 
Botany,  Books  on    ... 

Bottle-Brush 

Bougainvillea  (in  variety)    . 

braziliensis 

tlabra  sanderiana        ,      , 


30-B 

31-J 

43-C-b,  45-L 

43-C-a,  45-L 

45-L 

29-E-c,  34-A,  34-B,  34-C,  34-E,  43-C-b, 

45-L,  46-G 

43-C-b 

43-J-c 

10-C,  14-A-a,  30-A,  39,  40-B,  40-C-a, 

40-C-b 

21,  25-A,  26-A-a 

46-F 

25-A,  46-F.      .     . 

21,  26-A-a,  44-E-b 

14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l    .     . 
21,  22-A,  24-A-a   .     . 

22-A,  44-C-a 

20-D-c 

20-D-c 

30 

20-D-a,'20-b-b     '. 

20-D-b,  24-B-c,  39,  45-G 

20-B,  20-C,  25-C,  29-E-c,  34-C,  34-D, 

44-B-b 

45-L 

18-B,  29-E-c,  34-D,  46-G      .... 
43-D     .... 
3O-B,  45-J  .... 

16-B-b,  19-B,  27 

42-B-a 

13-B-c,  20-A,  20-B,  28-A,  45-H-b    .      . 

20-A,  45-H-b 

19-F-b,  20-A,  20-B,  40-B,  41      .      .     . 
29-G,  31-B-h,  31-D,  31-F,  31-1,  32-A, 

32-H-a,  43-1,  45-1 

24-E,  31-C-a.  31-E,  31-G,  45-J  .     .      . 

31-B-c,  31-F,  40-A 

15-C,  31-B-g 

28-B,  29-C,  31-B-b,  31-C-b,  40-A    .     . 

29-H,  31-B-a,  45-J 

20-B,  20-D-a,  24-A-a,  30-A,  33-E-b 

22-B,  24-B-b,  44-C-b 

40-C-a  . 


31-B-a,  31-B-e,  31-B-i     .     . 

19-H,  43-F-e 

16-C 

29-H 

45-A-a 

15-C,  31-B-e,  31-1      .      .     . 
31-B-f,  31-E,  31-K-c,  31-M-b 

24-A-a 

31-B-i,  31-E,  31-F,  31-1  .     . 
31-B-i,  31-E,  31-F,  31-1  .     . 

31-B-k 

31-B-k 

43-B-b. 


13    . 

13-B 

13-B-a 

13-B-b 

13-B-c 

13-A 

13-A-a 

13-A-b 

13-A-c 


43-F-d,  43-J-b. 
16-C,  43-J-c  . 
43-C-a  .  .  . 
43-C-a  .  .  . 


PAGE 

135,  144, 147 

338 

173,  314 

169,  173.  180 

169,  189,  315 

169,  186,  189 

343 

212 

233 

303,332 

303,332 

332 

207,  260,  261,  303,  332,  338 

303 
311 
117,  133,  212,  284,  289,  290, 

illus.  190 
169,  186,  189 
338 

186,338 
169,  189,  315 
135,  144,  147 
169,  173,  180 
173.  314 
166 
166 
211 

165,  166 

166,  182,  284,  327 

162,  163,  187,  207,  261,  314 

332 

151,  207,  261,  338 

304 

212,  331 

145,  155,  193 
297 

131,  162,  163,  197,  329 

162,  329 

158,  162,  289,  293 

209,  226.  229,  230,   232,   240, 

246,  309,  330 
184,  227,  230,  231,  331 

223,  230.  289 
140,225 

198,  205,  223,  228,  289 
209,  222,  331 

163,  166,  180,  212,  253 
173,  182,  314 

290 

222,  224,  226 

159,  307 
146 
209 
319 

139,  224,  232 

224,  229,  234,  235 
180 

226,  229,  230.  232 

226,  229,  230,  232 

226 

226 

302 

343 

127 

130 

130 

130 

131 

128 

128 

129 

129 

343 

307,  310 

146.  311 
303 
303 


Box 


NAME 


387 


GROUP 


Buxus 


PAGE 


Box,  Dwarf 12-B,  15-A,  45-B-a,  45-F-b  ....  124,138.320,324 

Golden  Japanese  ....        45-F-b 324 

Handworth's  Tree      .      .     .        45-F-d  ....  326 

Tree 40-C-b,  43-E-b,  45-B-a    .      .  290,305,320 

Victorian 43-E-a 305 

Boxwood 16-B-a,    16-C,    37-B-a,    44-G,    45-B-a,  145,  146,  277.  316,  320.  329 

45-H-b 

Brachycome  iberidifolia  .      .      .        32-A,  32-E,  32-G-3-2.        .    .  240,  242  244 

Brambles 20-D-a,  30-A .  166, 212 

Brickwork,  Vines  for     ...        34-B 260 

Bridal  Wreath 13-A-b,  19-A,  19-G-b,  42-A-a,  45-F-c    .  129,  154,  159,  297,  326 

Van  Houtte's 12-D,  12-E-c,  12-E-e,  13-A-b,  17,  19-B,  125,   126,   129,  149,  155.  158. 

19-G-a,  19-1,  24-B-b,  38-C-a,  42-A-a,  159,  182,  281,  297,  326,  337 

45-F-c,  46-C-a 

Brier,  Lord  Penzance  Hybrid.        37-B-a 277 

Sweet 20-B,  20-D-b,  37-B-a 163,  166,  277 

Broad-leaved  Evergreens    .      .        33-E-b 252 

Broussonetia  papyrifera .      .      .        43-B-a,  45-H-a      .      .  301,327 

Buckeye 39         .  284 

Sweet 45-C      ....  321 

Buckthorn 11-B,  20-D-b,        .     .  120,  166 

Alder 12-A-b  ....  124 

Carolina 12-C,  27, 28-A      .      .  .  125, 193.  197 

Common 12-A-b,  12-D,  12-E-b,  12-E-d,  16-D-a,  124,   125,   126,  147,  181,  187. 

24-B-b,  25-B,  40-C-b,  42-A-a,  44-A-a  291,  296.  313 

Sea 12-A-b.     12-E-d,     17,    20-B,    24-B-b,  124,   126,   149.   163.  181,   190. 

26-A-c,  33-E-b,  42-A-a,  44-A-a    .     .  253,  296,  313 

Buddleia  (in  variety)     .     .     .        31-H,  45-F-c,  45-H-b 232,  325,  329 

davidi 42-A-b .      .  297 

Sweet-scented       ....        42-A-b ...  297,  illus.  226 

veitchiana 19-D,  19-H,  37-A-a,  40-B      ....  156,  159,  276,  289 

Buffalo  Berry 12-E-b,  12-E-d      ...  .      .  126 

Canadian 12-E-b,  12-E-d,  25-B,  26-A-c,  29-E-a   .  126,  187,  190,  207 

Bugle 28-B,  29-A,  29-C 197,  203,  205 

Erect    .......        31-B-a 222 

Bulbs,  Articles  on 349 

Books  on 343 

Bulb  Culture 65 

Characteristics  of  bulbs 65 

Depth  for  planting  bulbs 67,  illus.  46 

Fertilizers  for  bulbs 66 

Forcing  bulbs 70 

Mulching  bulbs 67 

Reproduction  of  bulbs 68 

Soil    and    drainage   require- 
ments       66 

Time  for  planting  bulbs • 65 

Treatment  after  flowering  68 

Bulbs,  Discussion  of  uses  for  267 

Best  varieties  for  forcing  36-E- 273 

For  forcing  in  soil       .      .  36-E-a 273 

For  forcing  in  water  .      .  36-E-b 274 

Narcissi  for  different  locations       36-C 271 

Naturalizing  in  woodland  and 

wild  gardens      ....        36-B 270,  illus.  351, 366 

Refined  lawn  and  garden  areas       36-A 270,  illus.  350 

Tulip  combinations    .     .     .        36-D 271 

Cottage 36-D-c 272 

Darwfns 36-D-d 272 

Double 36-D-b 272 

Single 36-D-a 271 

Bull  Brier 25-C     .  187 

Bulrush 31-L-b 234 

Great 31-L-b  .  ...  234 

Bunchberry 15-A,  28-B,  29-C 138,  197,  205 

Burnet 37-B-b  .  ...  277 

Burning  Bush 13-B-c,   20-A,   20-B.   20-D-b,   22-C-a,  131,  162,  163,  166,  174,  296 

42-A-a 

Cork-barked 13-A-b,    14-B,    16-B-b,   20-B,    22-C-a,  129,  135,  145,  162,  173,  338 

46-F 

Butomus  umbellatus  ....        31-L-b 234 

Buttercup 30-A 212 

Double 15-C  ....  140 

Butterfly  Flower      ....        32-A,  32-E 240,242 

Butterfly  Weed 31-C-a,  45-1 227,  330 

Butternut 40-C-a,  45-H-a 290, 328 

Button  Bush 13-B-b,  20-A,  24-A-a,  42-A-a     ...  131,  162,  180,  296 

Buxus  (in  variety)    ....        16-B-a,    16-C,    37-B-a,    44-G,    45-B-a,  145,  146,  277,  316,  320 

45-H-b 

japoniea  aurea 45-F-b 324 

sempervirens 40-C-b,  43-E-b,  45-B-a 290,  305,  320 

sempervirens  hand  wart  hi  .      .        45-F-d 326 

suffruticosa 12-B.  15-A.  45-B-a,  45-F-b        .     .     .  124,  138,  320,  324 


Cabbage  Palmetto 

388 

Carya 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Cabbage  Palmetto   .... 

43-B-b  . 

302 

Coesalpino  pulcherrima 

43-F-d,  43-J-b. 

307,  310 

43-F-c  

307 

Calaba  Tree  

43-B-b  

302 

Caladium  

35-A-c,  35-B-c  

265,  266 

Calandrinia  umbellato    . 

24-E      

184 

Calcareous  soils.  Lilies  for 

257 

Calendula  officinalis. 

32-A,32-H-a   . 

240,245 

Calla  palustris     

31-L-b  

234 

Callicarpa  (in  variety)   . 
americana  

44-G 
43-F-e,  45-F-a,  45-G  . 

316.  fflus.  230 
307,  323,  327 

purpurea     

13-A-a,  13-B-a,  20-B,  45-F-a,  45-H-b  . 

128,  130,  162,  323,  329 

Callistemon  (in  variety)  . 

43-J-b  

310 

lanceolatus  

43-F-d  

307 

Callistephus  chinensis 

32-H-a,  32-H-b     . 

245,  246 

hortensis     

32-A,  32-E.      .      .      . 

240,  242 

Callitris  robusta  

43-B-b  

302 

terrucosa  

43-A      

301 

Calluna  vulgaris        .... 

26-B-c,  40-C-b,  45-F-b,  46-C-a  . 

191,  291,  324,  336 

vulgaris  alba     

45-F-b  

324 

Calonyction  aculealum    . 

32-F-b  

242 

Calophyllum  calaba  .... 

43-B-b  . 

302 

Caltha  palustris  

31-L-b  

234 

Palustris  flare  plena     . 

31-L-c  

235 

Calycanthus  floridus  . 

13-B-b,  24-C-b,  27,  28-A,  37-A-a,  40-B, 

131,   182,   193,   196,  276,  289, 

43-F-d,  45-F-c,  46-C-b,  46-E  .      .      . 

307,  325,  337 

occidenlalis  

45-F-c  

325 

Camassia  esculenta    .... 

36-B      

270 

Camellia  japonica     .... 
Campanula  carpatica 

43-F-b,  43-H,  45-B-a,  45-F-b,  45-H-b  . 
15-C,  29-A,  31-B-e,  31-D      .... 

306,  308,  320,  324,  329 
139,  204,  224,  229 

carpatica  alba  

31-B-f  

224 

medium       

31-B-e,  31-J     

224,233 

medium  calycanthema  alba 

31-B-f  

224 

medium,  pink  

31-B-g  

225 

persicifolia  

31-B-e  

224 

persicifolia  alba     .... 

31-B-f  

224 

persicifolia  caerulea     . 

31-H     

231 

pyramidalis      

31-B-e,  31-J     

224,233 

pyramidalis  alba    . 

31-B-f  

224 

Camperdown  Weeping  Elm 

14-A      

134 

Camphor  Tree    

43-A,  43-B-b,  43-E-a,  45-B-a     .      .     . 

301,  302,  305,  320 

Campion,  Autumn   .... 

15-C     

140 

Seaside  

15-C      

140 

Red       

31-J      

233 

Camptosorus  rhizophyllus     . 

29-D-a,  29-F   

206,208 

Canangium  odoratum 

43-B-b  

302 

Canary  Bird  Vine    .... 

32-F-a  

242 

Canby's  Mountain  Lover   . 

15-A,  24-A-b,  28-B     

138,  181,  197 

Candle-nut    

43-B-b  

301 

Candytuft      

32-A,  32-B,  32-D.  32-G-a-2  .... 

240,  241,  244 

Evergreen  

15-C,    29-A,    29-F,    31-B-b,    31-M-a, 

140,  204,  208,  223,  235,  253, 

33-E-b,  46-B-a  

336 

Rocket  

32-G-a-2     

244 

Canterbury  Bells      .... 

31-B-e,  31-B-f.  31-B-g,  31-J.      .      .      . 

224,  225,  233 

Cape  Jasmine      ..... 

43-E-a,  43-F-a,  45-B-a,  45-F-b,  45-F-d, 

305,  306,  320,  325.  326,  329, 

45-H-b,  45-K-b  

332 

Fortune's   

45-F-d  

326 

Veitch's      

45-F-d  

326 

Caragana  (in  variety)     . 

42-B-a  

297 

arbor  escens  

12-E-b,   14-B,   19-B,   19-F-b,    24-B-b, 

126,  135,  155,  158,  181.  186 

25-A  

frutescens    

41    

293 

microphylla      

12-E-b  

126 

Cardinal  Climber     .... 

32-F-b  

242 

Cardinal  Flower  

31-B-g,  31-C-a,  31-L-c     

225,  227,  235 

Blue      

31-B-e  

224 

Cardiospermum  halicacabum 

32-F-a  

242 

Carex  (in  variety)     .... 

30-b,  31-L-B    

212,  234 

Carissa  acuminata    .... 

43-D,  43-J-b    

304,310 

bispinosa    

34-E-a  

305 

Carnation      

43-1       

309 

Carpet  bedding,  Annuals  for    . 

32-G     

243 

Carpinus  betulus       .... 

12-A-b,  16-A,  16-B-b.  16-D-a,  40-C-b  . 

124,  144,  145.  146,  291 

betulus  fastigiala    .... 

14-A-b  

135 

betulus  globosa  

16-B-b  '    . 

145 

caroliniana.     .      .      .      . 

12-C,  16-D-a,  22-B,  28-A,  40-C-a   .      . 

125,  146,  173,  196,  290 

Carya  (in  variety)    .... 

40-C-a  

290 

alba       

22-B      

173 

aquatica      

45-H-a        

327 

myristicaeformis    .... 

45-H-a  

328 

ovata      

38-C-a  

280 

pecan     

45-H-a        

328 

Caryopteris 

389 

Ceratiola 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Caryopteris  incana    .... 

13-A-a,    16-C,    19-H,    31-B-i,    45-F-a, 

128.  146,  159,  226,  323,  329 

45-H-b    .      . 

incana  Candida       .... 

31-B-j  

226 

Cassia  corymbosa      .... 

45-F-c,  45-K-b 

325,  332 

fistula    

43-B-b  

302 

Yellow  

43-B-b  .      .      . 

302 

Castanea  (in  variety) 

30-B 

212 

Casuarina  eguisetifolia    . 

43-A,  43-B-b,  43-J-a  . 

301,  302,  310 

Catalpa  (in  variety) 

10-C,  19-C,  20-F,  39,  42-C,  44-G     .      . 

117,  155,  167,  284,  296,  316 

bignonioides      

24-C-a  

182 

bignonioides  nana  .... 

16-B-b  .     .     . 

145 

bungei  

14-A-a,  16-A,  45-E.  45-H-a  .... 

133,  144,  322,  328 

Round-leaved       .... 

14-A-a,  16-A,  45-E,  45-H-a  .... 

133,  144,  322,  328 

speciosa       

20-A,  23-A,  37-A-b     .      . 

162,  177,  276 

Western      

20-A,  23-A,  37-A-b     . 

162,  177,  276 

Catchfly  

31-C-a  

227 

Alpine  

29-F      

208 

Catesby's  Andromeda   . 

28-A,  29-H,  33-E-b,  45-F-b  . 

196,  209,  253,  325 

Catmint   

15-C,  24-E  

140,  184 

Cattley  Guava    

43-E-a  

305 

Ceanothus  americanus    .     .     . 

13-B-a,  18-B,  27,  28-A,  42-A-b  .      .      . 

130,  151,  193,  196,  297 

hybridus      
Cedar       

45-F-a  . 
44-F      

323 
316,  illus.  78 

Blue  Virginia  

16-A,  44-D,  45-D,  45-E  

144,  314,  322,  323 

Columnar  Tufted  .... 

9-A,  16-A   

111,  144 

Compact  White    .... 

45-D     

322 

Globe  Red  

9-E        

114 

Incense,  —  See  Incense  Cedar 

Japanese     

43-B-b,  45-D   

302,322 

Lebanon,    —  see     Cedar     of 

Lebanon  

Mt.  Atlas  

45-D,  45-K-a,  46-H-a 

322,  331,  339 

Mt.  Atlas  Silver   .... 

45-D     

322 

Pyramidal  Red     .... 

14-A-b  

135 

Red       

9-A,   9-D,    11-A,    12-C,    14-A-a,    16-A, 

111,   113,   119,   125,   133.   144, 

20-D-b,  24-B-a,  25-A,  26-A-b,  29-E-a, 

166,  181,  186,  190,  207,  281, 

38-C-a,  43-J-a,  44-A-a,  44-D,  45-B-a  . 

310,  313,  314.  320 

Rocky  Mountain  Silver  . 

9-A  

111 

Schott's  Red    

9-A,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-2,  45-E  .      . 

111,  135,  145,  147,  323 

Southern  Red       .... 

43-E-a  

305 

Spreading  Red      .... 

18-A      

151 

West  Indian    

43-B-b  

302 

White   . 

24-A-a,  45-E    

180,323 

Yellow  

16-B-a,  46-H-a      

145,  339 

Cedar  of  Lebanon    .... 

43-B-a,  45-D,  45-K-a,  46-H-a    .     .     . 

301,  322,  331,  339 

Cedrela,  Chinese  

45-H-a  

328 

odorata        

43-B-b  

302 

sinensts       

45-H-a  

328 

Cedronella      

37-B-b  

277 

Cedrus  atlantica  

45-D,  45-K-a,  46-H-a      

322,  331,  339 

atlantica  glauca      .... 

45-D     

322 

43-B-a,    45-B-a,   45-D,   45-E,    45-K-a, 

301,  320,  322,  331,  339 

46-H-a     ......... 

43-B-a,  45-D,  45-K-a,  46-H-a     .      .      . 

301,  322,  331,  339 

Celastrus  (in  variety)     . 

20-D-b,  24-B-c,  45-G  

166,  182,  327 

angulatus    

45-L      

332 

orbiculatus        

18-B,  28-E-c,  34-D,  46-G      .... 

151,  207,  261,  338 

20-B,  20-C,  25-C,  29-E-c,  34-C,  34-D, 

162,  163,  187,  207,  261,  314 

44-B-b     '   .      . 

Celosia  argentea  

32-H-b        

246 

Plumed       

32-H-b        

246 

Celtis  ntississippiensis    .      . 
occidentalis  

45-C      
10-B,  11-A,    20-D-a,    20-F,    26-B-a, 

321 
117,   119,   165,   167,   191,  301, 

43-B-a,  44-C-a,  44-E-a,  45-C  .     .     . 

314,  315,  321 

sinensts       

45-C      

321 

Centaur  ea  americana 

32-A      

240 

cineraria     

32-G-b-l     

244 

32-A,  32-C,  32-D,  32-H-a,  38-C-a    .     . 

240,  241,  245,  280 

imperialis  

32-A     

240 

gymnocarpa      

32-G-b-l     

244 

macrocephala    

31-B-h  

225 

Montana      

15-C,  31-B-e,  31-1      

139.  224,  232 

Centranthus  ruber      .... 

45-J      

331 

Century  Plant    

43-1      

309 

Cephalanthus  occidentalis     .      . 

13-B-b,  20-A,  24-A-a,  42-A-a     .     .     . 

131,  162,  180,  296 

Cephalaria  tatarica    .... 

31-B-h  

225 

Cephalotaxus  (in  variety)    . 

9-C  

113 

drupacea     

45-D     

322 

fortunei  

45-D,  45-H-a  

322,  328 

harringtoni  ana  fastigi  ata  . 
Cerastium  tomentosum    . 

45-E      
15-C,  24-E,  29-B,  29-F,  29-G,  31-B-b, 

322 
139,   184,  204,  208,  209,  223, 

31-H,  31-M-a     

231,235 

Ccratiola  ericoides     .... 

45-A-b  

319 

Ceratostigma 

390 

Christmas  Rose 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Ceratostigma  plumbaginoides     . 

15-C.  29-F,  31-B-i,  31-M-a  . 

140,  208.  226,  235 

Cercidiphyllum  japonicum  . 

14-A-a,  16-A,  22-A,  45-E 

133,  144,  173,  322 

Cercis  canadensis      .... 

11-A,  13-A-c,    14-A-a,    19-A,    19-E-a. 

119,  129,  133,    154,    157,    173, 

22-A,  40-C-a,  41,  42-A-a,  43-B-a,  44-G 

291,  293,  296,  301,  316, 

Cereus  triangularis    .... 

43-C-a  

303 

Cereus  Vine  

43-C-a  

303 

Cestrum  aurantiacum 

43-F-c  

307 

elegans  

43-F-b  .     .     . 

306 

Yellow  

43-F-c  

307 

Chaenomeles  japonica     ... 

12-A-b,  14-B,  19-A,  19-1,  22-C-b-l,  41, 

124,   135,    154,   159,   174,  293, 

43-F-b,  46-A-a,  46-E    

306,  335,  337 

sinensis       

45-F-c   .... 

325 

Chalcas  paniculata    .... 

43-D,  43-F-a    .      .     . 

304,306 

Chalice  Vine       

43-C-a  

303 

Chalk  Plant  

45-1       

330 

Chamaecyparts  (in  variety)  . 

14-A-a,  42-E,  44-G,  45-B-a,  46-H-a      . 

133,  298,  316,  320,  339 

ertcoides      

45-O     .... 

322 

iawsoniana  
nootkatensis      

9-C,  14-A-b,  45-D,  45-E,  46-  A-b,  46-H-a 
16-B-a,  46-H-a      .... 

113,  135,  322,  323,  335,  339 
145,  339 

obtusa    

9-A,  9-B     .... 

111,  112 

9-E,  15-  A,  16-B-a  

114,  138,  145 

obtusa  nana  aurea. 

9-E,  15-A  

114,  138 

pisifera  

9-C,  45-D  

113,  322 

pisifera  filifera  

9-B,  45-D  .... 

112,  322 

pisifera  plumosa    .... 
pisifera  squarrosa        .      .      . 

9-C,  12-A-a,  45-D       .... 
9-B       

113,  123,  322 
112 

24-A-a,  45-E    

180,323 

Chamaedaphne  calyculata     . 

18-A,  26-A-c,  29-H,  33-E-b  . 

151,  190,  209,  252 

Chamomile    

37-B-b  .... 

277 

Chaste  Tree  

16-C,  19-D,  19-H,  40-B,  45-H-b      . 

146,  156,  159,  290,  329 

Cheiranthus  allioni   .... 

24-E      

184 

cheiri     

32-E,  37-A-c    

242,  276 

Chenille  Plant     

43-E-a,  43-F-d,  43-1   

305,  307,  309 

Cherokee  Rose   

43-C-a  

303 

Cherry      

20-D-a,  39       .      . 

165,284 

Carolina  Laurel     .... 

43-E-a,  45-B-a,  45-H-b,  45-K-b.      .      . 

305,  320,  329,  332 

Cornelian  

12-D,    19-F-a,   24-B-b,   27,   41,   44-G, 

125,   157,   181,   193,  293,  316, 

46-C-a     

336 

European  Double-flowering  . 

17    

149 

Evergreen  

45-H-b       

329 

Flowering  

41,  42-B-a,  44-G  .      .      .     .     ,.     .      . 

293,  297,  317 

Hybrid  European  Bird    . 

14-A-a,  24-B-a      

133,  181 

Islands       

45-H-b       

329 

Japanese  Flowering    . 

19-A,  19-E-a,  33-C     

154,  157,  250 

Japanese  Pink-flowering 

33-C      

250 

Japanese      Weeping      Rose- 

flowering      

33-C 

250,  illus.  223 

Rose-pink  Flowering 

33-C      

250 

Sand     

26-B-a  

191 

Weeping     

14-A-a  

133 

Western  Sand  

19-E-a  

157 

Wild     

30-A      

212 

Wild  Black      

26-A-a,  38-A    

189,  279 

Chestnut  

30-B,  39     

212,284 

Chinese  Flowering 

19-C,  42-B-a    

156,297 

Chickweed     

30-A,  30-B  

212,  213 

Chilopsis  linearis      .... 

45-H-b,  45-K-b     

329,  332 

saligna        

45-H-a  

328 

Chimaphila  maculata 

28-B,  33-E-b   

197,  252 

33-E-b  

252 

Chimney  Bell-flower      .      .     . 

31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-J   

224,233 

China  Aster  

32-A,  32-E  

240,242 

Chrysanthemum-flowered     . 

32-H-b       

246 

Early  Half-dwarf       .      .     . 

42-H-a        

245 

Late-flowering      .... 

32-H-b       

246 

Quilled       

32-H-a        

245 

China  Wood-oil  Tree     .     .     . 

45-H-a,  45-K-a     

327,  331 

Chinese  Pine       

43-B-a  

301 

Chinese  Sweet  Shrub     . 

45-F-a  

324 

33-E-b  

252 

Chionanthus  retusa    .... 

14-B     

135 

ttrgimca     

13-B-c,  14-B,  17,  19-B,  19-G-a,  20-B, 

131,   135,   149,   155,   158,   162, 

22-A,  42-A-a,  43-F-a,  45-H-b     .      . 

173,  296,  306,  329 

Chionodoxa  (in  variety)  .     .     . 

36-E-a  

274 

36-A     

270 

Chokeberry    

20-D-a  

165 

Black    

13-B-b,  24-A-a,  28-A,  45-F-c      .     .      . 

130,  180,  196,  325 

Red       

13-B-b,  24-A-a,  28-A,  29-H  .... 

130,  180,  196,  209 

Christmas  Berry  

45-H-a  

328 

Christmas  Rose  

29-A,  31-B-b,  31-F,  33-E-b,  38-A    .     . 

204,  223,  230,  253,  279 

Chrysanthemum 


391 


Closed  Gentian 


NAME 

GROUP 

PACE 

Chrysanthemum  (in  variety)     . 

31-A.  31-B-j.  31-B-k.  31-B-l.  31-F,  31-1. 
31-K-a.  39,  40-B,  43-1  .     . 

221,  226.  227.  230.  232.  233. 
284.  289.  309 

coronartum  

32-A      

240 

coronarium  flore  pleno 

32-G-b-2    . 

244 

Double  Summer    .... 

32-G-b-2     . 

244 

Glory  of  Seven  Oaks 

31-H     . 

232 

Hardy  

31-B-j,  31-B-k,  31-B-l,  31-F.  31-K-a     . 

226,  227,  230,  233 

indicum      

31-K-c  

233 

leucanthernum  

38-C-a  . 

280 

maximum   

31-K-c  ... 

233 

maximum  King  Edward  . 

31-D     .... 

229 

parthenium  aureum     . 

32-G-b-l    .... 

244 

parthenium  glaucum   . 

32-G-b-l    .     . 

244 

Pompon      

31-K-c  

233 

shasta  daisy      

31-B-f.  31-F,  31-H,  31-1  .     . 

225.  230,  231,  232 

Summer     

32-A      

240 

Cicuta  maculata  

38-A     

279 

Cigar  Plant    

32-G-a-2,  32-G-b-2,  35-B-b    .... 

244,  266 

Cimicifuga  racemosa. 

28-B,  31-C-a,  45-  J      

197,  227,  331 

Cineraria  marilima    .... 

35-B-c  

266 

Cinnamomum  camphor  a. 

43-A,43-B-b,  43-E-a,  45-B-a.     .      .      . 

301,  302,  305,  320 

Cinquefoil,  Evergreen     . 

33E-b  

253 

Shrubby      .      .1 

19-D,  19-F-b,  29-A.    . 

156,  158,  204 

Circassian  Bean    .... 

43-B-b  

301 

Cislus  laurifolius       .... 

45-F-c  

325 

Citrus  deliciosa    

43-D     

304 

43-D     

304 

43-D     

304 

Severino's  

43-E-a,  43-H   

305,308 

43-D     

304 

trifoliata     

12-A-b,  43-E-b,  45-B-b.  45-H-a       .     . 

124,  305.  321,  328 

City  conditions  and  effect  on 

plants     

11    .                 

118 

Lists  for     

11    

119 

Cladrastis  (in  variety)    . 
lutea      

42-B-b  
14-A-a,  19-C,  19-G-b,  22-C-a,  45-H-a  . 

297 
133,  155,  158,  173.  328 

Clarkia,  Broad-leaved    . 

32-H-b       

246 

Clustered-flowered 

32-H-a  

246 

elegans  

32-H-b  

246 

pulchella     

32-H-a        

246 

Clay  soils       

24-C      

182 

Claytonia  virginico    .... 

31-C-b  

228 

Clematis    

34-A     

260 

45-L      

332 

crispa    

45-L      

332 

davitliana    

31-B-e,  37-A-c       

224,276 

David's      

31-B-e,  37-A-c  

224,  276 

45-L      

332 

Herbaceous      

31-B-f.  37-A-c       

225,276 

Japanese    

22-C-b-2.  34-C,   34-D.    34-E,    43-C-a. 

175,  261.  303,  319.  338 

45-A-b.  46-G      

montana     

46-G     

338 

monlana  rubra  

46-G     

338 

paniculata  

22-C-b-2.   34-C,   34-D,    34-E.    43-C-a, 

175,  261.  303,  319.  338 

45-A-b,  46-G      

Parsley-leaved      .... 

45-L      

332 

Purple  

45-L      

332 

recta      

31-B-f,  31-H,  37-A-c  

225,  231.  276 

Red       

46-G     

338 

Sweet   

45-L      

332 

Texas    

45-L      

332 

45-L      

332 

tiorna    

45-L      

332 

34-C,  34-D,  45-L  

261,332 

White   

46-G     

338 

Wild     

34-C.  34-D,  45-L  

261,  332 

Clerodendron  siphonanthus  . 

43-D     

304 

squamatum  

43-1       

309 

Scarlet  

43-C-a,  43-  J-c  

303,311 

43-C-a,  43-  J-c       

303,  311 

Clethra  acuminata     .... 

45-F-c  

325 

13-B-b,  19-D,  19-G-b.  24-A-a,  26-B-c, 
27.  28-A.  37-A-a.  42-A-b,  44-G,  46-C-b 

131,  156.   158,   180,   191,   193, 
196.  276,  297,  316,  337 

45-F-c  

325 

Cleyera    

45-F-b  

324 

Himalayan      .     . 

45-G,  45-K-b  

327,332 

japonica      

45-G,  45-K-b  

327,332 

oehnacea     

45-F-b  

324 

Climbing  Roses,  Best  types  of. 

33-D-a  

251 

Climbing  Vines  

34-C      

260 

Closed  Gentian  

31-L-c  

235 

Clover 

39* 

Corylopsis 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Clover      

30-A 

212 

Shrubby  Bush  

45-F-c  

326 

White  

37-A-c        

277 

Cobaea  scandens  

32-F-a,  35-B-a,  43-C-a    

242,  265.  303, 

Coccoloba  uvifera  

43-J-a   

310 

Cocoanut  Palm  

43-B-b  

302 

Cocos  plumosa     

43-B-b  

302 

Codiaeum  

35-A-a  

264 

variegatum        

43-1       

309 

Cohosh     

28-B      

197 

Coleus      

35-B-c  

266 

btumei  verschaffelti 

31-G-b-l,35-B-c    

244,266 

Branched   

32-G-b-l     

244 

Collected  Stock, 

Transplanting     and     Estab- 

lishing of      

Colours,  Bark     .           ... 

21    . 

168 

Combinations  of  flowers  for  . 

31-H      

231,  illus.  230,  294,  310 

Flowers  selected  for   . 

19-E,  19-F,  19-G,  19-H,  31-B    .      .      . 

156,  157,  158,  159,  222 

Fruits  selected  for      ... 

20-B      

162,  illus.  230 

Leaves  selected  for  autumn  . 

22    

172 

Tulips  selected  for  combina- 

tions of  

36-D     . 

271 

Twigs  selected  for      ... 

21    

169 

Colt'sFoot    

29-C      

205 

Columbine  (in  variety)  . 

31-A,  31-F,  31-1,  31-K-a,  31-N,  39,  40-A, 

221,  230,  232,  233,  236,  284. 

American   

15-C,  31-B-c,  31-C-a  

139.  223,  227 

California  Hybrid.     . 

31-B-c  

223 

European  

31-C-a  

227 

Gold-spurred   

31-B-d  

223 

Hybrid  Pink    

31-B-c  

223 

Rocky  Mountain  .... 

31-B-a  

222 

White   

31-B-b  

222 

Colutea  arborescens    .... 

19-F-b,  20-A,  20-B,  40-B,  41      ... 

158,  162,  289,  293 

Combinations  of  colours 

31-H                                       .      . 

231 

Comptonia  asplenifolia   . 

13-B-a,  24-B-b,  26-A-c,  29-E-a,  37-B-a, 

130,  181.   190,  206,  277,  290, 

40-C-a,  44-B-a,  45-F-a  

313,  323 

Cone-flower   

31-B-h,  31-E,  31-F.  31-1,  31-K-a     .      . 

226,  230,  232,  233 

Purple  

31-C-a  

227 

Congested  City  Conditions 
Conium  maculatum   .... 

11    
38-A      „    . 

118,  illus.  94 
279 

Convallaria  majalis  .... 

28-B,  29-C  31-B-b,  31-C-b,  31-1,  36-B, 

197.  205,  223,  228,  232,  270, 

36-E-a,  37-A-c   

274,  276 

Copper-leaf   

32-G-b-l     

244 

Coral-bells     

15-C,  30-A.  31-B-c,  31-C-b.  31-1.  45-1  . 

140,  212.  223,  228,  232,  330 

Red       

15-C,  31-D      

140.229 

Coreopsis  grandiflora 

31-B-h  

225 

lanceolata    

31-B-h.  31-D.  31-H.  31-1       .... 

225,  229,  231,  232 

linctoria       

32-A,  32-D.  43-1   

240,  241,  309 

verticillata  

15-C      

140 

Coriaria,  Japanese    .... 

45-G     

327 

japonica      

45-G     

327 

Cork  Tree,  Chinese  .... 

10-B.  23-A  

117.  177 

Cornel,  Red  Osier    .... 

19-B.  20-B,  23-B,  46-C-b      .... 

155.  162,  177,  337 

Cornflower,  American    . 

32-A      

240 

Old-fashioned  

32-A,  32-C,  32-D.  32-H-a,  38-C-a    .      . 

240,  241,  245,  280 

Cornus  (in  variety)  .... 

11-B,     13-A-b.     17,     19-G-a,    20-D-a. 

120,   129,   149,   158,   165,   182, 

24-C-b,  42-A-a  

296 

alba       

21    

169 

alba  sibirica     

19-C.  20-B.  21.  23-B,  25-B   .... 

153.  162,  169.  177.  187 

alternifolia        

19-B,  20-B,  27,  28-A       

155,  162,  193,  196 

amonnim     

26-B-c  

191 

canadensis  

15-A,  28-B,  29-C  

138,  197,  205 

45-H-b       

329 

florida   

13-B-c,    14-A-a,    19-A,    20-B,    22-C-a. 

131,  133,  154,    162,    173,    181, 

24-B-a,  27,  28-A,  40-B,  40-C-b,  43-B-a, 

193,  196,  289,  291,  301,  316, 

44-G,  45-G,  45-H-a     

327,  328 

florida  rubra     

19-E-a  

157 

konsa     

14-A-a.  44-G    

133,  316 

mas       

12-D,  19-F-a.   24-B-b,    27,   41.    44-G. 

125,   157,   181.   193,  293,  316, 

46-C-a     

336 

46-C-b.  46-F    

337,  338 

paniculato  

16-B-b.  19-C.  20-B.  21,  46-C-a  .      .     . 

145,  155,  162.  170,  336 

paucinervis  

45-F-c  

325 

sanguinea  viridissima  . 

21    

170 

stolonifera  

19-B,  20-B,  23-B,  46-C-b      .... 

155,  162.  177,  337 

stolontfera  flavirammea     . 

14-B,  21     

135,  170 

Coronilla  cappadocica     . 
emerus  

45-A-b  
45-A-b,  45-F-a      

319 
319,  323 

tana     

15-C,  45-A-b   

140,  319 

Corylopsis  pauciflora 

19-F-a,  45-F-a  

157,  323 

spicata  

37-A-a  

276 

Corylus 


393 


Crape  Myrtle 


NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Corylus  (in  variety) 

.  30-  A,  30-B.     . 

212 

amertcana  

13-B-c,  41  .     . 

131,  293 

atellana       

24-C-b  .      . 

182 

maxima      

16-D-a  .     .     . 

146 

maxima  purpurea. 

14-B,  45-F-c,  45-H-b 

135,  325,  329 

Cosmos      

32-  A,  32-E. 

240,  242 

bipinnatus  

32-A,  32-E  

240,  242 

Cotoneaster  (in  variety) 

20-B,  22-B,  42-A-a,  45-F-c,  45-G     . 

162,  173,  296,  325,  327. 

acuminata  

43-D,  43-F-b   . 

304,  306 

acutifolia    

45-F-c   .      . 

325 

adpressa      

15-B,  22-C-b-l,  33-E-b     . 

139,  174,  253 

Box-leaved  

45-B-a,  45-F-b       .      .      . 

320,  325 

Chinese      

13-A-b,  20-B    . 

129,  162 

Chinese  Prostrate. 

45-F-b  .      .      . 

324 

Creeping    

15-B,  22-C-b-l,  33-E-b     . 

139,  174,  253 

dammert      

45-F-b  .... 

324 

dielsiana     

13-A-b,  20-B    .      . 

129,  162 

divaricata    

20-B      .      .      . 

162 

Dwarf  

45-F-b  .      .      . 

325 

45-G,  46-C-a,  46-H-b. 

327,  336,  340 

frigida  

43-D,  43-F-a,  45-G  . 

304,  306,  327 

15-B,  22-C-b-l,  29-E-a,  29-H,  33-E-b, 

139,    174,  207,   209,  253,  289, 

40-B,  45-F-b,  45-G,  46-H-b    .     . 

325,  327,  340 

horizontalis  perpusilla 

20-B      .... 

162 

20-B      .... 

162 

Hybrid  

13-A-b  .     .      . 

129 

Hybrid  Prostrate 

20-B      .... 

162 

13-A-b  . 

129 

microphylla      

33-E-b,  45-F-b,  45-G,  46-H-b    .     .     . 

253,  325,  327,  340 

microphylla  gracilis     . 

45-F-b  

325 

multiflora    

45-F-c  

32G 

multi  flora  calocarpa     . 

20-B      

162 

Pointed-leaved      .... 

45-F-c  .     . 

325 

pannosa      

43-D,  43-F-a    

304,306 

Prostrate    

15-B,  22-C-b-l,  29-E-a,  29-H,  33-E-b, 

139,    174,  207,  209,   253,  289, 

40-B.  45-F-b,  45-G,  46-H-b    .      .      . 

325,  327,  340 

racemiflora  

20-B,  45-F-c    

162,  325 

rotundifolia      

45-F-b  

325 

rotundifolia  lanata 

45-B-a,  45-F-b      

320,325 

Round-leaved        .... 

45-F-b  

325 

salicifolia  floccosa 

20-B      

162 

45-F-d,  45-G,  46-C-a  

326,  327,  336 

Small-leaved    

33-E-b,  45-F-b,  45-G,  46-H-b     .      .     . 

253,  325,  327,  339 

Spanish      

45-F-c  

325 

Thyme-leaved  

45-F-b  

325 

thymifolia  

45-F-b  

325 

Cotton  Gum       

45-H-a  

328 

Cotton  Tree,  Silk     .... 

43-B-b  

302 

Cottonwood,  Northern  . 

26-A-a,  45-H-a      

189,  328 

38-C-a,  45-H-a      

281,  328 

Western     

24-D     

183 

Cow-parsnip,  Giant.     .     .     . 

31-L-c  

235 

Cowbane  

38-A     

279 

Cowslip,  English      .... 

15-C,  29-F,  31-B-d     

140,  208,  224 

Crab  

13-B-c,  14-A-a,  19-B,  30-A.  40-C-b.     . 

131,  134,  155,  212,  291 

Arnold's  Large  Rose-flower- 

ing     

33-C                       

251 

Bechtel's    

19-E-b,  33-C,  37-A-a  

157,  250,  276 

Carmine-flowering 

33-C     

250 

Chinese   Flowering,    River's 

Semi-double  

33-C,  37-A-a    

251,  276 

Deep  Pink-flowering  . 

33-C     

251 

Flowering  

19-E-a.  37-A-a      

157,  276 

Low-growing  Japanese    . 
Narrow-leaved      .... 

33-C      
19-E-a,  37-A-a      

251 
157,  276 

Parkman's  

19-E-a,  33-C,  41   

157,  250,  293 

Sargent's  White-flowering     . 

33-C     

251 

Scheidecker's    Semi-double 

Rose-flowering  .... 
Siberian  Flowering 

33-C 
20-A,  24-B-a,  25-A,  33-C,  37-A-a    .     . 

251,  illus.  222 
162,  181,  186,  250,  276 

Siebold's  Blush-flowering 

33-C     

251 

Western     

44-E-b  

315 

Wild     

19-E-a,  37-A-a,  45-H-a    

157,  276,  328 

Crab's  Eye  Vine  

43-C-a  

302 

Cranberry,  American  High  Bush 
Dwarf  Bush    
High  Bush  

19-1,  20-C,  46-C-b      
12-B,  15-B,  16-B-b,  18-B,  22-C-b-l       . 
13-A-c,  17,  19-C,  20-C,  25-B-,  27    .     . 

159,  164,  337 
125,  139,  145,  151,  175 
130,  149.  156,  164,  187,  193 

Japanese  Bush      .... 

13-A-b,  20-C   

129,  164,  illus.  231 

15-C,  28-B,  31-B-c     

140,  197,  223 

Crape  Myrtle     

16-C,  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d,  43-F-e, 
43-J-b.  45-H-b,  45-K-b      .... 

146,  306,  307,  310,  329,  332 

Crataegus 


394 


Cytisus 


NAME 
Crataegus  (in  variety)    . 


arnoldiana 
carrier i. 
coccineo 


collina 

cor  data 

crus-galli    .... 

mollis 

monogyna  .... 
monogyna  alba  plena  . 
monogyna  punicea. 
monogyna  rosea 
monogyna  rubra  plena 
oxycantha   .... 


oxycantha  pauli     .... 

punclata 

vailiae 

Crevices,  Plants  for .      .     .     . 

Paved  areas 

Walks 

Walls 

Crimson  Glory  Vine      ... 
Crocus    '   .  

Mammoth  Yellow 

Cross  Flower 

Cross  Vine,  South  American    . 

Croton 

Crowberry,  Black-fruited    .     . 

Pink-fruited 

Red-fruited 

Crown  Vetch 

European  .      . 

Mediterranean      .... 
Cryptomeria  japonica     . 

japonica  lobbi 

Cryptostegia  madagascartensis  . 

Pink  Madagascar. 

Cucumber  Tree 

Cucumber,  Wild 

Cunninghamia,  Chinese      .      . 

lanceolata 

sinensis 

Cuphea  ignea 

llavea 

Cupressus    sempenirtns    fasti- 

giata 

Cup  and  Saucer  Vine    . 
Currant,  Alpine 

American  Black    .... 

Flowering 

Indian,  (See  Indian-currant). 
Curving  roadway  plantings 
Cut   flower  garden  vs.   flower 

garden 

Cut  flowers 

Annuals  for 

Perennials  for 

Cyperus 

alternifolius 

strigosus 

Cypress  (in  variety) 

Dwarf  Golden  Japanese  .     . 

Dwarf  Japanese    .... 

Italian 

Japanese 

Lawson's 

Lohb's 

Pea-fruited 

Plume-like 

Thread-branched  .... 

Veitch's  Silver      .... 

Cypress  Pine 

Cypress  Vine 

Cypripedium  (in  variety)    . 

candidum 

Cytisus  praecox 

KOparius 


GROUP 

ll-A,    12-E-d,    13-B-c,    14-A-a,    19-B. 

19-G-a,  20-B,  20-C,  22-B,  40-B,  40-C-b, 

33-C 

33-C 

12-A-b,  20-D-b,  25-A,  26-B-a,  44-A-a  . 

45-G 

12-A-b,  20-D-b,  26-B^a,  33-C     ! 

12-A-b,  16-B-b,  20-D-b,  26-B-a.      .      . 

33-C 

12-E-e        

33-C 

33-C 

33-C 

33-C 

12-A-b,'    16-B-b,'    16-D-a,'    16-D-b-l, 

20-D-b,  25-A,  26-B-a,  46-A-a  .      .      . 

33-C 

33-C 

45-G 


29-F  .... 
29-F  .... 
15  .... 
29-E-c  .... 
36-A,  36-E-b  .  . 
36-E-b  .... 
43-C-b,  45-L  .  . 
43-C-b  .... 
35-A-a,  43-1  .  . 
33-E-b  . 

33-E-b  .... 
33-E-b  .... 
15-C  .... 
45-A-b  .... 
45-A-b  .... 
43-B-b,  45-D  .  . 
45-E  .... 
43-J-c  .... 
43-J-c  .... 
20-A,  45-C.  45-H-a 
32-F-b  .... 
45-E  .... 
45-E  .... 
43-B-a  .... 
32-G-3-2  .  .  . 
32-G-D-2,  35-B-b  . 


45-D,  45-E 

32-F-a,  35-B-a,  43-C-a 

44-A-a 

25-B 

13-A-b,  'l7,"l9-B,  19-F-a,' 22-B,  37-A-a, 
41,  44-B-a 

18 


32-A 

31-1 

31-L-b 

35-B-c,  43-1 

31-L-b 

.  14-A-a,  45-D 

9-E,  15-A 

9-E,  15-A,  16-B-a 

45-D,  45-E 

9-A,  9-B,  44-G,  45-B-a.  46-H-a  .     .      . 
9-C,  14-A-b,  45-D,  45-E,  46-A-b.  46-H-a 

45-E 

9-C,  45-D 

9-C,  12-A-a,  45-D 

9-B,  45-D 

9-B       ... 

43-A,  43-B-b 

32-F-b,  34-A 

28-B 

24-A-a 

45-F-c 

19-F-a,  24-B-b,  26-B-c,  45-F-c  .      .     . 


PACK 

119, 126, 131,  133, 155. 158, 162, 

163,  173,  289.  291 
250 
250 

124,  166,  186,  191,  313 
327 

124,  166,  191.  250 
124,  145,  166,  191 
250 
126 
250 
250 
250 
250 
124,  145,   146,   147,   166,   186. 

191 
250 
250 
327 

illus.  271 
208 
208 
136 
207 

270,  274,  illus.  351 
274 

303,332 
303 

264,309 
253 
253, 
253 
140 
319 
319 

302,  322 
323 
311 
311 

162,  321,  328 
242 
323 
323 
301 
244 
244.266 

322.  323 
242,  265,  303 
313 
187 

129.  149,  155,  158,  173,  276, 
293,313 

150 
237 

239 

232 

234 

266,309 

234 

133,298 

114,  138 

114,  138.  145 

322,323 

111,  112.  316,  320,  339 
113,  135,  322,  323,  335,  339 
323 

113,  322 
113,  123,  322 

112,  322 
112 

301,302 
242,  260 
197 
180 
325 

157,  181.  191,  325 


Daedalacanthus 

395 

Dicentra 

NAME 

GROUP 

PACE 

Daedalacanthus  nereostu 

43-F-e  . 

307 

Daffodil  (in  variety) 

45-J      

331 

Long  Trumpet 
Medium  Trumpet 

36-A,  36-B. 
36-A     . 

270,  271 
270 

Short-cupped  White  . 

36-B     

271 

Trumpet    

36-A      .... 

270 

White   

36-A     .... 

270 

Dahlia  (in  variety)  .... 

45-1       . 

330 

Garden  

45-1  

330 

Daisy,  African    

32-A      .      . 

240 

29-A,  29-F,  31-B-c,  31-J,  31-K-c     , 

204,  208,  223.  233 

Mexican  Shrub     .... 

43-F-c  

307 

Orange       

32-H-a  

246 

Ox-eye  

31-B-h,  38-C-a      .... 

226,280 

Painted      

31-B-g,  31-1,  45-1.     .     . 

225,  232,  330 

32-A,  32-E,  32-G-a-2.      ... 

240,  242,  244 

15-C,  45-A-a.  45-J      

140,  319,  331 

Dandelion      

30-A      

212 

Daphne  (in  variety). 

39,  42-B-a  

284,297 

33-E-b  

253 

45-F-a  

324 

15-A,     19-A,    29-A,    33-E-b,    37-A-a, 

138,  154,  204.  253,  276,  325 

45-F-b     

Deciduous       

42-B-a  

297 

genkwa        

45-F-a  

324 

Lilac-flowered  

45-F-a  

324 

mezereum    

45-F-a  

324 

Darnel      

38-A     

279 

Datura  stramonium 

38-A      

279 

Dead  Nettle  

28-B,  31-C-b   

197.228 

Death  Camas      

38-A      

279 

Delonix  regia       

43-B-b  

302 

Delphinium  (in  variety) 

.  31-A,  31-B-e,  31-D,  31-H,  31-1,  31-N, 

221,  224,   229,   231,  232,  236, 

45-1    

330 

ajacis    .      .      

32-A,  32-C,  32-H-b  

240,  241.  246 

belladonna  

31-F,  31-H  

230.231 

formosum    

31-H     

231 

geyt       

38-A     

279 

grandiflorum  album     . 

31-B-f  

225 

Dennstaedtia  punclilobula    . 

28-B,  29-D-a   

197.206 

Dentaria  diphylla      .... 

45-J       

331 

Deodar     

43-B-a,   45-B-a,   45-D.   45-E,   45-K-a, 

301,  320,  322,  331,  339 

46-H-a     

Depth  for  transplanting 

34,39 

Depth  of  planting  bulbs 

67.    Plate  IX 

Design  Bedding,  Annuals  for   . 
Desmodium,  Siebold's   . 

32-H 
19-D,  45-F-c    

245 
156.  326 

White-flowering    .... 

19-D     

156 

Deutzia     

17.  19-B,  19-G-b,  42-A-a,  44-G  .      .      . 

149,  155,  158,  296,  316,  illus.  110 

crenata.  Pride  of  Rochester  . 

23-B      

177 

Dwarf  Pink     

18-B,  19-E-b,  45-F-c  

151,  157,  325 

gracilis        

12-B,  13-A-a,  15-B,  18-B,  41,  45-F-a, 

124,   128,   139,   151,  293,  324, 

46-C-a     

336 

kalmiaeflora     

45-B-b  

321 

Large-flowered      .... 

23-B     
13-A-a,  18-B,  45-F-c  

177 
128.  151.  325 

Lemoine's  

13-A-a,  18-B.  45-F-c  

128,  151,  325 

longifolia     

45-B-b  

321 

Long-leaved    
myriantha  

45-B-b  
45-B-b  .     .     .     .  '  

321 
321 

Pink-flowered  Hybrid 

45-B-b  

321 

purpurascens    
Purple-flowered    .... 

45-B-b  
45-B-b  

321 
321 

rosea      

18-B,  19-E-b.  45-F-c  

151.  157,  325 

scabra    

14-B,  45-F-c    

135.  325 

Single  White   
Slender  

14-B,  45-F-c    
12-B,   13-A-a,  15-B,  18-B,  41,  45-F-a, 

135.  325 
124,  128,  139,  151.  293,  324, 

46-C-a     

336 

White-flowered  Hybrid   .     . 

45-B-b  

321 

Dewberry,  European 
Dianthus  (in  variety)     . 
barbatus      

29-E-a  
31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-H,  31-1,  31-J,  31-N. 

207 
221 
225,  231,  232,  233,  236,  246 

32-H-a 

caryophyllus     
chinensis     

43-1  
32-A,  38-C-a    

309 
240,280 

15-C,  24-E,  29-B.  29-F.  29-G.  31-B-c. 

140,   184,  204,  208,  209,  223, 

31-D  

229       . 

heddewigi   

29-1,  32-A  

210,  240 

latifolius  atrococcineus 

31-H     .      

231 

Napoleon  III  

31-H     

231 

plumarius         
Dicentra  eximia  
spectabilis  ,..,,. 

15-C,  29-B,  31-B-b.  31-B-c.  37-A-c.      . 
15-C,  31-B-g    
31-B-c,  31-F,  40-A     .... 

140,  204.  223.  276 
140.225 
223,  230,  289 

Dictamnus  396                                             Edgings 

NAME  GROUP                                                    PAGE 

Dictamnus  fraxinella      .      .      .       31-B-g,  37-A-c,  37-B-b 225, 277 

fraxinella  alba        ....         31-B-f 225 

Dtervilla  (in  variety)      ...        17 149 

floribunda         13-A-c 129 

florida  .      .  13-A-c,  19-E-b,  23-B 129,  157,  177 

hybrida 13-A-b,  19-C,  19-1,  42-A-a,  46-C-a  .      .  129,  155,  159,  296,  336 

hybrida  luteo-marginata    .      .        14-B,  27 135,  193 

Eva  Rathke      ....  13-A-b 129 

trifida    ....  13-B-a,  18-B,  24-C-b,  27 130,  151,  182,  193 

Digitalis  (in  variety)      .      .      .        31-1 232 

gloxiniaeflora 31-N 236 

grandiflora.      .  31-B-h 225 

purpurea 31-C-a,  31-J 227,  233 

purpurea  rosea       ....        31-B-g 225 

Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca    .  32-H-a •    .  246 

Diospyros  kaki    .  45-G 327 

virginiana  .      .  20- A,  45-G,  45-H-a 162,  327,  328 

Dirca  palustris    .  13-B-b,  26-B-c,  42-A-a,  45-F-c  .      .      .  131,  191, 296, 325 

Diseases  of  Plants    .  39 282 

Dividing  Perennials.  31-K 88,219,233 

Dodecatheon  media    .  15-C 140 

Dogwood  (in  variety)    .  11-B,    13-A-b,     17,     19-G-a.    20-D-a,  120,   129,   149,   158,   165,   182 

24-C-b,  39,  42-A-a 284,  296 

Alternate-leaved  .  19-B,  20-B,  27,  28-A 155,  162,  193,  196 

Flowering  .  13-B-c,    14-A-a,    19-a,    20-B,    22-C-a,  131,   133,   154,   162,   173,   181, 
24-B-a,  27,  28-A,  40-B,  40-C-b,  43-B-a,           193,  196,  289,  291,  301,  316, 

44-G,  45-G,  45-H-a 327,  328,  illus.  190 

Green-stemmed    .....        21 170 

Grey    •*     .      .  16-B-b,  19-C,  20-B,  21,  46-C-a  .      .      .  145,  155,  162,  170, 336 

Himalayan      ....  45-H-b 329 

Japanese    .     .  14-A-a,  44-G 133, 316 

Oregon 46-C-b,  46-F 337,338 

Red-flowering       ....        19-E-a 157 

Red-twigged    .     .  21 169 

Siberian      .  19-C,  20-B,  21,  23-B,  25-B   ....  155,  162,  169,  177,  187 

Silky 26-B-c 191 

Square-twigged     ....        45-F-c 325 

Dolichos  lablab 32-F-b 242 

Doronicum 31-M-b 235 

excelsum 31-B-d 223 

plantagjneum 31-A „•  221 

plantagineum  excelsum  40-A 289 

Draba  azoides      .      .      .  15-C,  24-E 140,  184 

Dracaena  indivisa     .      .  35-A-a,  35-A-b.  35-B-c 264, 266 

Dracena  (in  variety)      .  35-A-a,  35-A-b,  35-B-c 264, 266 

Dragon  Head,  False      .  31-B-g,  31-E,  31-G,  31-1       ....  225,  230, 231, 232 
Drainage 

For  lawns 54 

Tree  pits 43 

Dropwort 31-B-f 225 

Drought  resisting  plants     .      .        24-E 183 

Duchesnea  indica      ....        45-A-b 319 

Duranta  repens 43-D,  43-F-e 304,  307 

Dusty  Feverfew       ....       32-G-b-l 244 

Dusty  Miller 32-G-b-l,  35-B-c 244,  266 

Plumose-leaved     ....        32-G-b-l 244 

Dutchman's  Pipe  34-A,  34-C,  34-E 260,  261 

Dwarf        43-C-a 302 

Dyer's  Greenweed    ....  19-F-b,  26-B-c,  29-E-a,  45-F-c  ...  158,  191,  207,  326 

Ebony,  Mountain     ....        43-B-b 302 

Pink-flowering  Mountain      .        43-F-b 306 

Purple  Mountain        .      .      .        43-F-e 307 

White  Mountain        .      .      .        43-F-a 306 

Yellow  Mountain.      .      .      .        43-F-c 306 

Kcheveria  atropurpurea         .      .        32-G-a-l 243 

fulgens 32-G-a-l 243 

glauca 32-G-a-l 243 

Glaucous 32-G-a-l 243 

Purple-leaved 32-G-a-l 243 

Red-margined 32-G-a-l 243 

secunda 32-G-a-l 243 

Smooth-stemmed       .     .     .       32-G-a-l 

Echinacea  purpurea  ....        31-C-a 227 

Echinocystis  lobata    ....        32-F-b 242 

Echinops  (in  variety)     .     .     .        45-1 330 

ritro 24-E,  31-B-e 184,224 

Edgings  for  walks     ....        12-B 124 


Elaeagnus 

397 

Evergreens 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Elaeagnus  (in  variety)    . 
angusttfolia       

21   .     . 
12-D,    12-E-b,    19-F-a,     24-D,     25-A, 
42-A-a,  46-C-b  . 

170 
125,  126,  157,  183,    186,   296, 

argentea       

25-B     . 

187 

longipes       

19-F-a,  20-B,  45-F-c  . 

157,  162,  325 

macrophylla      

45-F-b  .      .      . 

325, 

multiflora    

45-G     '      . 

327 

multiflora  rotundifolia  . 
parvifolia     

22-C-b-l     .      . 
45-F-c  .      . 

174 
325' 

pungens       

16-C,  43-D,  43-F-a,  45-F-d  . 

146,  304,  306,  326 

[tungens  maculata  .... 

45-G.      .     . 

327 

pungens  variegata  .... 

45-F-d  .      .      . 

326 

umbellata     ....... 

45-F-c  . 

325 

Elder  (in  variety)      .... 

20-D-a,  30-A   .      . 

166,  212 

American    

13-B-c,  17,    19-C,   19-G-b,  20-B,  23-B, 
26-A-c,  42-A-a,  46-E     .      .      . 

131,  149,    156,  159,  163,    177, 
190,  297,  338 

Box  
Dwarf  

10-C,  12-C,  22-A,  23-A,  39,  44-C-a  . 
45-F-a  .      .      . 

117,  125,  173,  177,  284,  314 
324 

Golden  

14-B      

135 

Marsh   

38-C-a  .      . 

281 

Red-berried      

13-B-c,  19-B,  19-G-b,  20-B    . 

131,  155,  159,  163 

Southern  Dwarf    .... 

45-F-a  .      .      . 

324 

Yellow  

43-F-c  . 

307 

Yellow-flowering    .... 

43-F-c  .     . 

307 

Elephant's  Ear    

35-A-c,  35-B-c  

265,266 

Elm  (in  variety)  

24-D,  39     .      . 

183,284 

American   

10-A,  22-A,  24-A-a,  25-A,  40-B,  43-B-a, 

117,   173.   180,   186,  290.  301. 

44-E-a,  46-D      . 

315,  337 

Camperdown  Weeping    . 

14-A-a,  45-H-a 

134,  329 

Columnar  

16-D-b-l     .      . 

147 

English  

10-B,  11-  A,  16-D-a     . 

117,  119,  147 

Fastigiate  

14-A-b  .      .      . 

135 

Scotch  

10-A      

117 

Wheatley's  Cornish    . 

14-A-a,  14-A-b,  16-D-b-l. 

134,  135,  147 

Winged      

45-C      

322 

Elsholtzia  (in  variety)   .      .      . 

19-D,  19-H      . 

156,  159 

cristate         

45-F-a  

324 

Dwarf  

45-F-a  .      . 

324 

stauntoni    

19-D,  19-H      

156,  159 

Emilia  flammea   

32-A,  32-C.      .     .      . 

240,  241 

Empetrum  atropurpureum    . 

33-E-b  .... 

253 

earnest   

33-E-b  .     .      . 

252 

ntgrum        

33-E-b  .      .      . 

253 

Empress  Tree      

19-H,  37-A-b.  42-C,  45-H-a  .     .     . 

159.  276.  298.  328 

Enkianthus    

46-C-a  

336 

perulalus     

46-C-a  

336 

Entrances,  Plantings  for     . 

18    

150 

Epigaea  repens    

29-A,  30-A,  33-E-b,  37-A-c,  40-C-a  .    . 

204.  212.  253.  277.  290 

Epimedium  macranthum 

15-C      

140 

Equisctum  hyemalis  .... 

30-A      

212 

Eranthis  hyemalis     .... 

36-B      

270 

Erica         

29-A     

204 

mediterranea     

46-C-a  

336 

eagans   

15-A     

138 

Ericaceous  plants     .... 

40-B      

289 

Erigeron  speciosus     .... 

24-E     

184 

Eriobotrya  japonica  .... 

43-D     

304 

Ernajagua,  Yellow   .... 

43-F-c  

307 

Eryngium  amethystinum 

24-E,  31-B-e,  45-1      

184,  224.  330 

Erysimum  pulchellum     . 

15-C      

140 

Erythronium  (in  variety) 

29-H     

209 

americanwn      

36-B,  45-J        

271,  331 

Eschscholtzia  californica. 

32-A,  32-C,  32-H-a     

240,  241,  246 

Eucalyptus  citriodora 

43-J-a   

310 

Eucharidium  grandiflmum  . 

32-A      

240 

Large-flowered      .... 
Eugenia  jambos   • 

32-A      .      . 
43-D     

240 
304 

uniflora       

43-D,  43-E-a   

304,305 

Eupatorium  (in  variety) 

31-E,  45-1  

230,330 

ageratoides        

31-B-j,  31-H,  31-L-c  

226,  232,  235 

coelestinum  

31-B-i,  31-1,  31-L-c    

226,  232,  235 

31-C-a  

227 

sesstlifolium     

38-C-a  .                 

280 

verbenaefolium  

24-A-a  

180 

Euphorbia  corollata   .... 

15-C      

140 

43-F-d  

307 

epitkymoides    

24-E     

184 

Evergreens    

9      

109 

Adapted  to  shade  in  wooded 

areas       

9-D       

113 

Atmospheric  conditions  .     . 

110 

Books  on    

343 

33-E 

252 

Evergreens  398  Fertilizers 

NAME  GROUP  PAGE 

Evergreens,  Climate 109 

Lists  of 9 Ill 

Low-growing,  formal  types  .       9-E 114 

Mass  planting illus.  63, 78 

Most  hardy  for  general  use  .        9-A Ill 

Not  generally  used  in  mid- 
west   9-C 113 

Planting  seasons illus,  14 

Protection 110,  illus.  62 

Site 110 

Soil 110 

Used  most  in  mid-west    .     .        9-B 112 

Evonymus  (in  variety)   .     .     .        20-D-b,  39,  42-A-a 166,  284,  296 

alalus 13-A-b,  14-B,  16-B-b,  20-B,  22-C-a,  46-F  129,  135,  145,  162,  173,  338 

americantts 11-B,  13-B-b.  14-B,  20-B      ....  120,  131,  135,  163 

atropurpureus 13-B-c,  20-A,  20-B,  22-C-a   ....  131,  162,  163,  174 

bungeanvs 13-A-c,  45-G 129,  327 

bungeanus  semitoer  listens.      .        22-C-b-l 174 

Climbing         28-B,  29-A,  33-E-b,  34-B,  34-C,  43-C-b,  197,  204,  253,  260,  261,  303, 

45-A-a,  46-B-b,  46-G 319,  336,  338 

eunpaeus 13-A-c,  14-B,  20-B,  22-C-a  ....  129,  135,  163,  174 

Evergreen 16-C.  43-E-b 146,  305 

japonicus 16-C,  43-E-b 146,  305 

obotatus 15-B.  18-B,  28-B,  29-C 139,  151,  197,  205 

radicans 28-B,  29-A,  33-E-b,  34-B  34-C,  43-C-b,  197,  204,  253,  260,  261,  303, 

45-A-a,  46-B-b,  46-G 319,  336,  338 

radicans  acutus     ....        28-B,  29-A,  29-C,  29-E-c 197,204,205,207 

radicans  carrier*    ....         18-A 151 

radicans  minima   ....        29-F 208 

radicans  tegetus     ....        18-A,  29-A 151,204 

ytdoensis 13-A-b 129 

Exochmda  (in  variety)   .      .      .        44-G 316 

pandiflora 13-A-c,  14-B,  19-B,  45-H-b  ....  129,  135,  155,  329 

Exposed  sites,  Plants  for    .     .        25-A,  25-B,  25-C 186.  187 

Fagus  14-A-a,  24-C-a,  30-A  .      .  133, 182,  212 

americana 12-A-b,  12-C,  21,  22-C-a,  30-B,  40-C-a,  124,  125,  170,  174,   212,   290, 

45-H-a 3281 

syhatica  12-A-a,     12-C,     12-D,    16-D-a,    40-B,  123,  125,  146,    289,  291,   316, 

40-C-b,  44-G illus.  335 

syhatica  heterophylla  .     .     .        14-A-a 133 

Fast-growing  types  for  produc- 
ing screen  effects    ...        23 .  176 

Shrubs 23-B .  176 

Trees 23-A 176 

Feather  Fleece,  Mountain  .      .        31-E 230 

Ferns  (For  ground  cover) 205 

Dry,  shady  places      .      .     .        29-D-a 206 

Moist,  shady  places  .      .     .        29-D-b 206 

Ferns  (in  variety)     ....        29-H,  31-C-a,  31-M-b,  35-A-b,  35-A-c,  209,  227,  235,  264,  265,  266, 

35-B-c,  43-G 308 

Boston 35-A-c 265 

Broad  Beech 29-D-b 206 

Christmas 28-B,  29-D-a,  29-B-b,  33-E-b     .     .     .  197,  206, 252 

Cinnamon 24-A-a,  29-D-b 180,  206 

Clayton's 28-B,  29-D-a 197,206 

Dwarf 29-D-b 206 

Goldie'sWood      ....        29-D-b 206 

Hay-scented 28-B,  29-D-a 197,206 

Lady 29-D-b       .  206 

Maidenhair 28-B,  29-D-b,  45-J 197,206,331 

Margined 28-B,  29-D-a.  29-D-b,  31-C-b    ...  197,  206,  228 

Native 31-M-b 235 

Neat 29-D-a 206 

Ostrich 28-B,  29-D-b 197,206 

Royal 24-A-a,  29-D-b 180, 206 

Sensitive 28-B,  29-D-b 197,206 

Sweet 13-B-a,  24-B-b,  26-A-c,  29-E-a,  37-B-a,  130,  181,  190,   206,   277,  290. 

40-C-a,  44-B-a,  45-F-a 313,  323 

Virginia  Chaia      ....        29-D-b 206 

Walking 29-D-a,  29-F 206, 208 

Fertilizers 

Annuals 91 

Aquatic  plants 220 

Bulbs 66 

Forcing  flowering  plants 91 

Lawns — new 53 

Lawns — topdressing 84 

Newly  transplanted  stock 40 

Perennials 91 

Preparation  of  planting  areas 36 

Rhododendrons 83 

Rose  garden  beds 98, 


Fertilizers 


NAME 

Fertilizers,  Shrubs  .  .  . 
Trees — established  plants 
Trees — newly  planted 

Vines 

Wild  garden  plants    .      . 

Fescue  Grass,  Blue  . 

Festuca  glauca       .... 

Fetterbush 

Japanese 

Mountain  . 


399 

GROUP 


Ficus  aurea 

nilida 

pumila 

repens 

Species 

villosa 

Fig,  Barberry 

Climbing 

Creeping 

Large-leaved  Creeping    .     . 

Fig  Tree 

Filbert 

Filipendula  camtschatica      ..     . 

hexapetala 

hexapetala  flore  plena  . 

purpurea 

rubra 

Fir  (in  variety) 

Balsam 

Douglas 

Fraser's  Balsam    .... 

Globe  White 

Nikko 

Nordman's 

Red 

Silver 

Veitch's  Silver      .     .     .     . 

White 

Flag,  Blue  Dwarf     .... 

Dwarf 

Yellow  Water       .     .     .     . 

Flame  Flower 

Flax,  Perennial 

Fleabane,  Oregon     .... 
Flora's  Paint-brush  .... 

Florida 

Flowering  shrubs  for  middle 
and  southern  Florida  .  . 
Blue  and  purple  .  .  . 

Pink 

Red 

White 

Yellow 

Fruiting      effect,      valuable 

characteristics     . 
Ground  cover  plants  . 

Hedges 

Middle       and       southern 

Florida 

Northern  Florida    .      .      . 
Herbaceous  plants 

Lawns  for 

Seashore  planting. 

Shrubs 

Trees 

Vines 

Shrubs  for  shade  conditions. 
Street  and  specimen  planting 
Northern  list     . 
Southern  list     .... 

Vines 

Lattice  and  wire  fences     . 

Walls 

Windbreaks 

Floss  Flower 


Dwarf  Blue 
Dwarf  White 
Flower  Gardens 


29-A,  29-B.      .     .1 

29-A.29-B. 

29-H,  40-B 

12-B,  45-F-b    . 

15-A,     18-A     22-C,    24-A-b,    33-E-b. 

45-F-b,  46-C-a,  46-H-b 
43-J-a   .      . 
43-B-b  . 


45-L 
43-C-b  .     . 
43-B-b  ... 

43-C-b , 

45-A-b  .      . 
45-L      .      . 
43-C-b  . 
43-C-b  .      . 

43-B-b 

16-D-a,  24-C-b     .     .     . 

31-E     . 

31-C-a,  45-1     .     .     . 

31-B-f  . 

13-B-a,  31-L-c.     .     . 

31-C-a 

14-A-a,  39,  42-D 

9-C,  24-C-a,  28-A,  46-E  .      . 
9- A.  9-B.  9-D,  44-F,  46-H-a. 

9-C 

9-E       .... 

9-A.  9-B,  14-A-b,  16-D-b-2,  24-C-a.     . 

9-C 

46-H-a 

46-H-a 

9-A,  9-B,  24-C-a 

9-A,  9-B,  11-A,  14-A-b,  44-F,  46-H-a   . 

31-B-a,  31-C-a 

29-F 

31-B-d,  31-C-a,  31-L-b 

43-C-a,  43-C-b,  45-L 

15-C,  31-B-a 

24-E 

32-A.  32-C 

43 


43-F 

43-F-e 

43-F-b 

43-F-d 

43-F-a 

43-F-c 


43-D 
43-G 
43-E 


43-E-a 
43-E-b 
43-1. 


43-J 

43-J-b 

43-J-a 

,  43- J-c 

43-H 

43-B 

43-B-a 

43-B-b 

43-C 

43-C-a 

43-C-b 

43-A  

32-A,   32-B,   32-E,    32-G-b-2,    35-A-a, 

35-A-c,  43-1 

32-G-a-2 

32-G-a-2 


Flower  Gardens 

PACE 

82 

74 

45 

84 

217 

204 

204 

209,289 

124,  325 

138,  151,  174,  181.  253.  325. 

337,  340 
310 
302 
332 
303 
302 
303 
320 
332 

303,  illus.  367 
303 
302 

146,  182 
230 

227,  330 
225 

130,  235, 
227 

133.  284.  298 
113,  182,  196,  337 
112,  113.  316,  339 
113 
114 

111.  112.  134,  147,  182 
113 
339 
339 

111,  112.  182 

111,112.119,134,316,339 
222,  227 
208 

224,  227,  234. 
303,333 
140,222 
184 

240,  241 
299 

305 
307 
306 
307 
305 
306 

303 
307 
304,  illus.  374 

305 

305 

308 

59,  illus.  41 

310 

310 

310 

311 

308 

301 

301 

301 

302 

302 

303,  illus.  367 

300 

240,  241,  242.  244,  264.  2fi5, 

309 
244 
244 
214,  237,  illus.  286 


Flowering  Effects 

400 

Fruit 

NAME 

GROUP 

PACE 

Flowering   Effects  —  Trees   and 
Shrubs    
Blue  flowers    

19    . 

19-H     

154,  illus.  206,  214,  222,  223 
159 

Continuous    bloom    from 

twelve  shrubs    .... 

19-1 

159 

Red  and  pink  flowers. 

19-E      .      .     .    '. 

156 

Early  flowering. 

19-E-a  

157 

Late  spring  and   summer 

flowering  ..... 

19-E-b  . 

157 

Spring,  after  leaves  appear  . 

19-B     

154,  illus.  214 

Spring,  before  leaves  appear. 

19-A      .... 

154,  illus.  214 

Summer,  Early      .... 

19-C      

155 

Summer,    Late,     and    early 

autumn    

19-D     . 

156 

White  flowers       .... 

19-G     

158 

Early  flowering. 

19-G-a  

158 

Late  spring  and  summer 

flowering  .      .      .     ... 

19-G-b  . 

158 

Yellow  flowers      .... 

19-F      .      .     . 

157 

Early  flowering. 

19-F-a  

157 

Late  spring  and   summer 

flowering  

19-F-b  

158 

Flowering  plants,  Fertilizers  for 

91 

Foam-flower  

29-F 

208 

Fontanesia  fortune! 

22-C-b-l      

174 

Fortune's   

22-C-b-l      

174 

Forcing,  Bulbs  for  .      .      .      . 

36-E      

273 

Shrubs  for        ..... 

41    

293 

Twigs  for   

41    

293 

Forestry,  Books  on  . 

344 

Forget-me-not    

29-A,    31-B-a,    31-C-b,    31-D.   31-L-c, 

204,  222,  228,  229,  235,  241 

32-B,  32-D   

Formal  effects  with  plants  . 

16    

141,  illus.  159,  174 

Alices,  Trees  and  Shrubs  for 

16-D     . 

146 

Not  pleached 

16-D-b       .     . 

147 

Deciduous 

16-D-b-l     

147 

Evergreen 

16-D-b-2    

147 

Pleached      . 

16-D-a  

146,  illus.  158,  175 

Border  Planting 

16-A     

144 

Topiary     work     and     close 

shearing   

16-B 

145 

16-B-b  

145 

Evergreen    

16-B-a  

145 

Tub  planting  

16-C     

146 

Formal  gardens,  Perennials  to 

be  avoided  

31-E 

229 

Forsytkia  (in  variety)    . 

11-B,  19-A,  19-F-a,  41.  42-A-a  44-G     . 

120.  154,  157,  293,  296,  316 

intermedia  

12-D.lS-A-c    

125,  130 

intermedia  spectabilis 

13-A-b  .      . 

129 

suspensa     

17,  19-1,  45-F-c     .... 

149  159,325 

suspensa  fortunei  .... 
tirtdissima       

13-A-c,  46-C-a       .... 
12-D,  13-A-c,  21,  22-C-a.  22-C-b-l  . 

130,336 
125,  130,  170,  174 

Fothergilla  gardeni    .... 

45-F-a  

324 

parviflora    

45-F-a  

324 

Fountain  Plant  

43-1  

310 

Foxglove  (in  variety)     .     .     . 

31-C-a.  31-1.  31-J.  31-N  

227,  232,  233,  236 

Pink      

31-B-g  

225 

Yellow  

31-B-h  

225 

Fragaria  

45-J       

331 

Fragrant  plants        .... 

275 

Fragrant  flowers  

37-A 

275 

Perennials   

37-A-c  

276 

Shrubs    

37-A-a  

275 

Trees      

37-A-b  

276 

Fragrant  leaves        .... 

37-B      

277 

Perennials    

37-B-b  .     . 

277 

Shrubs  and  trees    . 

37-B-a  

277 

Frangipani  Tree  
Fraxinus  (in  variety)     . 

43-J-a   
10-B,  11-A  

310 
117,  119 

22-B,  24-A-a.   25-A.    44-C-b,    44-E-a, 

173.  180.  186,  314,  315,  33', 

46-D  

omrricana  acuminata 

45-H-a  

328 

biUmoreana      

45-C     

321 

caroliniana  

45-C      

321 

Pennsylvania  

45-H-a  

328 

Freesia     •  -y 

36-E-a  

274 

refracia  alba      

36-E-a  

274 

Fringe  Tree,  Chinese 

14-B      

135 

Fritillaria  meleagris  .... 

36-B,  45-J  

271.  331 

Frost-weed     

24-E,  30-b       

184.  212 

Fruit  Trees    

20-A      

162 

Fruit,  Vines  valuable  for    . 

34-D     

261 

Fruiting  Plants 


401 


Glory-of-the-Snow 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Fruiting  Plants 20 160 

Attractive  to  birds     .      .     .        20-D 164 

In  summer 20-D-a 165 

In  winter 20-D-b 166 

List  of  birds      ....        20-D-c 166 

Colpur  effects  of  ....        20-B 162,  illus.  230 

Fruit    which    attracts    birds 

from  other  fruits      .     .        20-E 167 

Form  or  size 20-A 161 

Undesirable  because  of  fruits        20-F 167 

Winter  months      .      .      .      .        20-C 163 

Fruits,  Trained 16-C 146 

Fuchsia  (in  variety).      .      .      .        35-A-c,  35-B-b 265,266 

procumbens 35-B-a 265 

Trailing 35-A-c,  35-B-a 265 

Funkia  (in  variety)  ....  29-A,  31-M-a,  37-A-c,  43-1,  45-1      .      .  204,  235,  276,  309,  330 

coerulea 31-B-e 224 

fortunei 31-B-e 224 

lancifolia 31-B-e 224 

sieboldiana 31-B-e 224 

subcordata  grandiflora       .      .        31-b-f 225 

Gaillardia  (in  variety)    .     .      .        45-1 330 

aristata 29-G,  31-B-h,  31-D,  31-F,  31-1  ...  209,  226.  229,  230,  232 

grandiflora 43-1 309 

pulchella  picta       ....        32-A,  32-H-a 240,  246 

Galantkus  (in  variety)    .      .      .        36-E-a 274 

eluiesi 36-A 270 

nivalis 45-J 331 

Galax  (in  variety)    ....        29-H,  33-E-b,  45-J 209,  253,  331 

aphylla 29-H,  33-E-b,  45-J 209, 253, 331 

Galium  boreale 28-B 197 

Game  cover  plants  ....        30          211 

Foliage,  buds  and  blossoms 

(spring  cover)    ....        30-A 212 

Nuts  or  seeds  (autumn  cover)        30-B 212 

Garden  architecture,  Books  on 344 

Gardens,  Books  on 344 

Gardenia  (in  variety)     .      .      .        45-H-b 329 

ftonda 43-E-a,  43-F-a,  45-F-b,  45-K-b  ...  305,  306,  325,  332 

jasminoides 45-B-a,  45-F-d 320,  326 

jasminoides  fortuniana     .      .        45-F-d 326 

jasminoides  veitchi      .      .      .        45-F-d 326 

Garland  Flower  .      .  15-A,     19-A,    29-A,    33-E-b,    37-A-a,  138,  154,  204, 253, 276,  325 

45-F-b     . 

White 33-E-b 253 

Gas  Plant  31-B-f,  31-B-g,  37-A-c,  37-B-b  .      .      .  225,  277 

Gaultheria  procumbens    .      .      .  15-A,    20-D-a,    24-A-a,    29-B,    29-C,  138,  165,  180,  204,  205, 253 

33-E-b 

shallon 46-B-b,  46-E 336,  337 

Gelsemium  sempervirens .      .      .        43-C-a,  43-G,  45-L 303,  308,  332 

sempervirens  flore  plena    .      .        45-L 332 

Genista  tinctoria 19-F-b,  26-B-c,  29-E-a,  45-F-c  ...  158,  191,  207,  326 

Gentiana  andrewsi    ....        31-L-c 235 

Geranium  (in  variety)    .      .      .  32-G-b-2,  35-A-a,  35-B-b      ....  244, 264.  266 

Bronze-leaved       ....        32-G-b-l 244 

Cardinal 35-A-a 264 

Ivy-leaved 35-A-a,  35-A-b 264,265 

maculatum       .      .      .      .      .        28-B 197 

Madame  Salleroi  ....        32-G-a-l 243 

Salmon  Double     ....        35-A-a 264 

sanguineum 15-C,  31-B-c 140,223 

Scarlet 35-A-a 264 

Strawberry 35-B-a 265 

Geum 30-B 212 

coccineum 31-B-c,  31-D 223,229 

heldreichi 31-B-d 223 

Ginger,  Wild 29-H 209 

Ginkgo  biloba 10-B,  11-A,  22-C-a,  45-C,  45-H-a    .      .  117,  119,  174,  321,  328 

Gladiolus  (in  variety)     .      .      .        31-G,  36-E-a.  45-1 231,  274, 330 

Glaucium  flavum 24-E 184 

luteum 31-J 233 

Gleditsia  delavayi      ....        45-C 321 

japonica 45-C,  45-H-a 321,328 

sinmsis  ....        45-C,  45-H-a 321,328 

triacanthos                         .      .  10-C,  12-A-b,  20-A  20-F,  24-D,  26-B-a,  117,  124,  162,  167,  183,  191. 

37-A-b,  45-H-a 276, 328 

Gliricidia  mmculata   ....        43-J-a 310 

Globe-flower 13-A-a,  19-F-b,  21,  31-B-d,  40-A,  40-B,  128,   158,   170,  224,  289,   293, 

41,  42-A-a.  44-G,  45-F-c    ....  296.317,326 

Globe  Thistle 24-E,  31-B-e,  45-1 184,  224,  330 

Glory-of-the-Snow    ....        36-A,  36-E-a 270,274 


Gloxinea 

4O2 

Hardback 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Gloxinea,  Hardy  

45-1  . 

330 

Goat's  Beard  (in  variety)   . 

31-B-f,  31-C-a,  31-L-c 

224.  227,  234 

False     

30-A       .     . 

212 

Siberian      

31-E     

230 

Gold-flower    

13-A-a,  15-B,  29-H,  31-B-h.  45-F-a 

128,  139,  209,  226,  324 

Golden  Bell  (in  variety)      .     . 
Dark  Green     

11-B,  19-A,  19-F-a,  41,  42-A-a,  44-G    . 
12-D,  13-A-c,  21,  22-C-a,  22-C-b-l  . 

120,  154,  157,  293,  296,  316 
125,  130,  170,  174 

Drooping    

17,  19-1,  45-F-c     . 

149,  159,  325 

Fortune's   . 

13-A-c,  46-C-a      .     . 

130,  336 

Hybrid       

12-D,  13-A-b,  13-A-c 

125,  129,  130 

Golden  Chain       

17,  19-F-b,  42-B-a      . 

149,  158,  297 

Golden  Dewdrop      .... 

43-D,  43-F-e    . 

304,307 

Golden  Feather  

32-G-b-l     .... 

244 

Golden  Glow  

31-E      . 

230 

Goldenrod  (in  variety)  . 
Blue-stemmed  

31-B-l,  31-C-a,  31-E,  38-C-a,  45-J  .      . 
28-B 

227,  228,  230,  281 
198 

Sharp-leaved  

28-B      .     .     . 

198 

Showy  

28-B      .      .      . 

198 

Swamp  

24-A-a  .... 

180 

Golden  Seal  

28-B      . 

197 

Golden  Tuft  

15-C,  29-A,  31-B-d,  45-1 

139,  203,  223,  329 

Gomphrena  globosa    .... 

32-A      .... 

240 

Gooayera  pubescens    .... 

29-F,  29-H       .      . 

208,209 

Gooseberry,  Wild     .... 

44-A-a,  44-B-a       .      .      . 

313 

Gordonia  lasianthus  .... 

43-B-a,  43-B-b,  43-E-a    . 

301,  302,  305 

Gorse       

46-A-b  .... 

335 

Goutweed  .         

29-C      .      . 

205 

Grape  (in  variety)    .... 

20-D-a,  24-B-c,  25-C 

166,  182,  187 

Evergreen  

43-C-a  

303 

Grapefruit     

43-D     . 

304 

Grape  Hyacinth       .... 

36-A      

270 

Grass  seed  mixtures. 

55 

Grasses     

32-A 

240 

Greenbrier     

30-A,  43-C-a    

212,303 

Prickly       

22-C-b-2     .... 

175 

Grevillea  robusta  

43-A,  43-B-b   .... 

301,302 

29    .     .     .     , 

199,  illus.  270 

Annuals  used  for  . 

32-B     

240 

Crevices    between    stepping 

stones,  etc  

29-F 

208 

Dry  locations  

29-B     

204 

Embankments     and     rocky 

' 

slopes      

29-E     

206 

Perennials    

29-E-b  

207 

Shrubs    

29-E-a  

206 

Vines      

29-E-c  

207 

Ferns    

29-D     

205 

Dry,  shady  places  . 

29-D-a  

206 

Moist,  shady  places     . 

29-D-b       

206 

Moist  locations     .... 

29-A     

203 

Open,  sunny  exposures    . 

29-G     

208 

Rhododendrons  and  Azaleas. 

29-H     .     . 

209 

Roses    

29-1       

210 

Shady  locations    .... 

29-C      

205 

Ground  Ivy  

29-A,  29-F,  35-A-a,  35-A-c,  35-B-a 

204,  208,  264,  265 

Groundsel      

31-C-a,  31-L-c  

227,  235 

Groundsel  Bush  

19-D,  26-A-c,  43-D,  45-F-c  .... 

156,  190,  304,  325 

Guinea-hen  Flower  .... 

36-B,  45-J  

271,  331 

Gumi  

45-G     

327 

Round-leaved       .... 

22-C-b-l      

174 

Gymnocladus  dioica  .... 

20-A,  45-H-a   

163,  328 

Gynerium  

43-1       

309 

Gypsophila  (in  variety)  . 

45-1  

330 

elegant  

32-A,  32-C,  32-D  

240,241 

muralis  

32-C     

241 

paniculate  

31-B-f,  31-1,  43-1  

225,  232.  309 

Habenaria  ciliaris     .... 

45-J      .     

331 

Hackberry     

39    

284 

Chinese      

45-H-a  

327 

Southern    

45-C      .     ,     

321 

Halesta  (in  variety) 

42-B-a  

297 

14-B,  19-B,  19-G-a,  24-C-b,  45-H-a      . 

135,  155,  158,  182.  328 

tetraptera    

44-G     

316 

Halimodendron  halodendron 

24-D,  45-F-c    

183,  326 

43-D,  43-F-d,  43-H    

304,  307,  308 

sphaerocarpa    
Hamamelis  japonica. 

43-F-c,  43-H    
19-A,  19-F-a    

307,308 
154,  158 

13-B-c,  19-D,  22-C-a,  24-B-b,  24-C-b, 

131,   156,   174,   181,   182,  193, 

27,  28-A,  30-B,  42-A-a       .... 

196,  212,  296 

Hanging  Baskets      .... 

35-B      

265 

Hardback  (in  variety)  .     .     . 

19-E-b,  25-B,  29-E-a,  42-A-a,  44-B-a   . 

157,  187,  207,  297,  314 

Harebell 

403 

Hemlock 

NAME 

GROUP 

PACK 

Harebell,  Carpathian     .      .     . 

15-C,  29-A,  31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-D     . 

139,  204,  224,  229 

Peach-leaved  

31-B-e,  31-B-f.      . 

224 

Haw,  Vail's    

45-G      

327 

Hawthorn,  Double  Red-flower- 

ing      

33-C 

250 

Double  White-flowering  . 

33-C      

250 

English  

12-E-e  

126 

Indian  

43-E-a,  45-F-d      .      .      . 

305.326 

Pink-flowering       .... 

33-C      

250 

Single  Pink      

33-C      .... 

250 

Hazel  

39    

284 

Flowering  

37-A-a  

276 

Japanese  Flowering    . 

19-F-a,  45-F-a  

157,  323 

Purple-leaved        .... 

14-B,  45-F-c,  45-H-b       

135,  325,  329 

Hazelnut  (in  variety)     . 

13-B-c,  30-A,  30-B,  41     

131,  212,  293 

Heath  (in  variety)    .... 

29-A      

204 

Cornish      

15-A      

138 

Mountain  

29-H     

209 

Heather,  Pink     

46-C-a  

336 

Scotch  

26-B-c,  40-C-b,  45-F-b,  46-C-a  .     .     . 

191,  291,  324,  336 

Southern    

45-A-b  

319 

White-flowered      .... 

45-F-b  

324 

Heavy  Effects     

16   

141 

Hedera  canariensis    .... 

45-L      

333 

helix      

28-B,    34-B,    35-A-a,    35-B-a.    40-B, 

197,  260,  264,  265,  289,  303, 

43-C-b,  43-G,  45-A-a,  45-L,  46-B-b, 

308,  319,  333,  336,  338 

46-G       

helix  conglomerate. 

15-C      

140 

29-C      

205 

Hedges     

12    

121 

Barriers,  Hedges  for  . 

12-A      

123 

Holding  leaves  during  win- 

ter   

12-A-a  

123,  illus.  345 

Not  holding  leaves  during 

winter  

12-A-b  . 

124 

Bleak  exposures    .... 

12-E     

126 

Close  shearing  .... 

12-E-b  

126 

Fruiting  hedges 
Late  foliage  

12-E-d  
12-E-a  

126 
126 

Shady  places     .... 

12-E-e  

126 

12-E-c  

126 

Edgings  for  walks  and  garden 

12-B 

124,  illus.  95,  110,  159 

Privacy       

12-D     

125 

Windbreaks    and    for    solid 

screens      

12-C 

125 

Hedysarum  coronaritim  . 

31-J      

233 
34,  36,  illus.  34 

Helenium  (in  variety)    . 

31-K-c,  45-1     . 

233,330 

aulumnale  

31-B-l   

227 

autumnale  superbum   . 

31-E,  31-L-c    

230,235 

Riverton  Beauty  .... 

31-B-l,  31-H    

227,  231 

Hclianlhemum  (in  variety) 

24-E,  45-1  

184,330 

canadense   

30-B      

212 

chamaecistus     

28-B,  33-E-b    

197,  253 

croceum       

15-C,  29-B,  31-B-d,  31-K-a  .... 

140,  204,  223,  233 

Htlianthus  (in  variety)  . 

31-B-h,    31-C-a,    31-E-   31-1,    31-K-a, 

226,  227,  230,  232,  233,  235 

31-M-b.  45-1      

angustifolius     

38-C-a  . 

280 

annuus  

32-A     

240 

Helichrysum  bracleatum. 

32-A     

240 

Htliopsis  

31-B-h  

226 

Heliotrope     

32-A,  32-E,  35-A-a,  35-A-b  .... 

240,  242,  264,  265 

Blue  Garden    

32-G-b-2    

244 

Garden  

32-H-b       

246 

Heliotropium  peruvianum    . 

32-A,  32-E,  35-A-a,  35-A-b  .... 

240,  242,  264,  265 

Queen  of  Violets  .... 

32-G-b-2    

244 

regale    

32-H-b       

246 

Hellebore,  Green      .... 

38-A     

279 

29-A,  31-B-b,  31-F,  33-E-b,  38-A    .     . 

204,  223,  230,  253,  279 

24-A-a,  29-H.  31-L-c,  45-A-a     .     .     . 

180,  209,  235,  319 

Hemerocallis  (in  variety)     . 

31-B-h,  31-C-a,  31-F,  31-M-b,  43-1.     . 

226,  227,  230,  235,  309 

auranliaca  

37-A-c  

277 

flaca       

31-H,  31-L-c,  37-A-c  

231,  235,  277 

fttlta      

31-H     

231 

thunbergi    

37-A-c  

277 

Hemlock,  Canadian.     .     .     . 

9-A,  9-B,  9-D,  12-A-a,  12-C,  14-A-a, 
16-B-a.  20-D-b,  24-C-a,  27,  28-A.  30-B, 

112,  113,   124.  125,   134.  145, 
166,  182,  193.  197,  213.  290, 

40-C-a,  44-F,  46-E  

316,338 

Carolina     

9-A,  9-B,  12-C      

112,  113,  125 

Dwarf  

9-E        

114 

Hemlock 

NAME 

Hemlock,  Globe       .     .     . 

Sargent's  Weeping     .     . 

Western 

Hemp-tree,  Cut-leaved 
Henna      

Red-flowering. 
Hepatica  (in  variety)     . 

triloba 

Heracleum  mantegazzianum . 
Herb  gardens,  Books  on 
Hercules  Club     .      .     .     . 
Herniaria  glabra 

Herniary 

Hesperis  matronalis  . 
Heuchera  (in  variety) 

brizoides     

sanguined 

Hibiscus  (in  variety) 

Chinese 


404 
GROUP 


9-E 

9-E 

14-A-b,  46-H-a     .     .     . 

42-A-b 

43-F-a  .... 

43-F-d 

28-B,  29-C,  31-C-b,  40-A 
28-B,  29-C,  31-C-b,  40-A 
31-L-c  . 


moscheutos 
moscheulos  hybrida 
syriactts 


syriacus  ardens 
Tosa-sinensis    . 

Hickory    .... 
Nutmeg      .     .     . 
Hills  of  Snow      .     . 
Hippeastrum 
Hippophae  rhamnoides 


Hobble-bush 
Holly  (in  variety) 
American   . 


Dahoon      

English 

Japanese 

Mountain 

Small-leaved    . 

Hollyhock 

Holodiscus  discolor  ariaefolius. 

Honesty 

Honeysuckle       ...... 

Brown's 

Bush 

Coral 

Dutch 

Early  Fragrant     .     .      .      . 


Fly  Bush    . 
French 
Heliotrope 
Japanese    . 


Japanese  Bush 
Large-fruited   . 
Late-blooming 
Prostrate    . 
Purple-flowering 
Standish's  Bush 
Tartarian  . 


White  Tartarian 

Yellow  .     .      . 

Zabel's  .  . 
Hop  Tree.  .  . 
Hop  Vine. 

Cut-leaved . 
Hop,  Japanese    . 
Hornbeam 

American   .     . 

European  . 

Globe    .      .     . 

Hop      .      .     . 

Pyramidal 


11-B,  20-B,  43-F-a,  45-H-a  .... 

29-A 

29-A 

31-C-a,  37-A-c,  45-1 

30-A 

15-C,  31-D       . 

15-C,  31-B-c,  31-C-b,  31-H,  31-1,  45-1. 

44-G 

16-C,  43-E-a,  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d, 

43-F-e,  43-J-b 

31-B-j,  31-B-k,  31-E,  31-L-c      .      .     . 

31-M-b.      . 

11-B,  12-D,  14-B,  16-A,   19-D,     .     . 

19-1,  26-B-c,  40-B,  40-C-b,    42-A-b, 

45-B-b,  45-E 

19-H 

16-C,  43-E-a,  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d, 

43-F-e,  43-J-b 

22-B,  38-C-a,  39,  40-C-a.      .     . 

45-H-a 

19-C 

43.  j 

12-A-b,'  12-E-d,  '  17,  20-B,  24-B-b', 
26-A-c,  33-E-b,  42-A-a,  44-A-a  .  . 

27 

44-G,  45-E,  45-G 

20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b,  40-C-b,  43-B-a, 
43-B-b,  43-D,  43-J-a,  45-B-a,  45-H-b 

43-D 

45-B-a,  46-A-b,  46-H-b   '.'.'.'.     '. 

16-B-a,  20-B,  45-B-a,  46-A  b,  46-H-b  . 

26-A-c 

12-B 

31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-B-h,  31-E,  31-N,'39. 

46-C-b 

31-J 

20-D-a,  20-D-b,  34-A,  34-C,  42-A-a      . 

45-A-b 

13-B-a,  18-B,  23-B,  24-C-b,  27,  45-G    . 

22-C-b-l,  43-C-a,  43-G 

46-G 

12-A-b,  17, 18-B,  19-A.  19-F-a,  22-C-b-l, 
37-A-a,  41,  45-B-b 

12-E-e,  37-A-a 

31-J 

29-E-a 

18-B,  22-C-b-2,  24-B-c,  24-C-c,  25-C, 
29-E-c,  34-E,  43-C-a.  43-G,  44-G, 
45-A-b,  46-B-b,  46-G 

13-A-c,  19-B,  19-G-a,  20-B,  46-E     .      . 

15-B,  18-B,  29-E-a,  37-A-a  .... 

12-D,  13-A-c,  46-C-a 

29-E-a 

45-A-b 

19-A,  22-C-b-l,  45-F-c 

12-D,  13-A-c,  16-A,  19-B,  19-1,  20-B, 
26-A-c,  27,  42-B-a,  44-A-a  .  .  . 

19-G-a 

38-C-b 

12-D,  13-A-c,  19-B 

17,  25-A,  26-B-a 

32-F-b,  45-L 

32-F-b 

34-E 

30 

12-C,  16-D-a,  22-B,  28-A,  40-C-a    .      . 

12-A-b,  16-A,  16-B-b,  16-D-a,  40-C-b  . 

16-B-b 

22-C-a.  30-A,  30-B,  40-C-a  .     .     .     . 

14-A-b  . 


Hornbeam 

PAGE 

114 

114 

135,  339 

297 

306 

307 

197,  205,  228,  289 

197,  205,  228.  289 

235 

344 

120,  162,  305,  327 

204 

204 

227,  277,  330 

212 

140,  229 

140,223,228,231,232,330 

316 

146,  305,  306,  307,  310 
226,  230,  235 
235 

120,    125,    135,    144,   156,   159, 
191,  289,  291,  297,  321,  323 

159 

146,  305,  306.  307,  310 

173,  280,  284,  290 
328 

155 
309 
124,  126,  149,  163,  181,  190, 

253,  296,  313 
193 

316,  327 
163,  166,  291,  301,  302,  304, 

310,  320,  329 
304 

320,  335,  340 
145,  163,  320,  335,  340 
190 
124 

224,  225,  229,  236,  284 
337 
233 

165,  166,  260,  261,  296 
320 

130,  151,  177,  182,  193,  327 
175,  303,  308 
338 

124,  149,   151,   154,  158,   175, 
276,  293,  321 

126,  276 

233 

207 

151,   175,   182,   183,    187,  207, 

261,  303,  308,  317,  320,  336, 

338 

130,  155,  158,  163,  338 
139,  151,  207,  276 

125,  130,  336 
207 

320 

154,  175,  326 

125,   130,   145,   155.   159,   163, 

190,  193,  297,  313 
158 
281 

125,  130,  155 
149,  186,  191 
242,333 
242 
261 
284 

125,  146,  173,  196.  290 
124,  144,  145,  146,  291 
145 

174.  212,  213.  290 
135 


Horse-chestnut 

405 

Incense  Cedar 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Horse-chestnut    

14-A-a,  19-B,  39,  42-C     . 

133,  155,  284,  298 

Common    

10-C.  11-A,  20-F  . 

117,  119.  167 

Dwarf  

14-B,  19-G-b,  42-B-b. 

135,  158.  297 

Himalayan      

45-C      .      . 

321 

Red-flowering       .... 

46-D     .      . 

337 

Wilson's  Chinese  .... 

45-C      . 

321 

Horse-tail  Rushes     .... 

30-A      . 

212 

Horticultural  Varieties  . 

33    ... 

247 

Houseleek      

24-E,  29-G,  32-G-a-l  . 

184,  209.  243 

Alpine  

32-G-a-l     .      . 

243 

Spiderweb  

29-F,  32-G-a-l 

208,243 

Houstonia  caerulea    .... 

29-H 

209 

serpyllifolia      

45-A-a  

319 

Hovenia  dulcis     

45-H-a 

328 

Hunnemannia  fumariaefolia 

32-A,  32-H-a   . 

240,  246 

Humulus  japonicus  .... 

34-E      .      . 

261 

lupulus  

32-F-b,  45-L    .      . 

242,  333 

lupulus  japoni  cus  .... 

32-F-b  . 

242 

Hyacinth  (in  variety)    . 

36-A,  36-E-a,  36-E-b 

270,  274 

Summer     

31-G     .     .      . 

231 

Hyacinth  Bean   

32-F-b  . 

242 

Hyacinthus     

36-A      .      . 

270 

candicans    

31-G      

231 

Hybrid  Broom     

45-F-c  .      .      . 

325 

Hydrangea  (in  variety)  . 

14-B,  16-C,  19-G-b,  26-B-c,  39,  42-A-b, 

135,   146,   158,   191,  284.  297, 

43-F-b,  43-F-e   . 

306,307 

arborescens        

13-B-b,  19-D,  27,  28-A,  42-A-a  .      .      . 

131,  156,  193,  196.  296 

arborescens  grandiflora 

26-A-c,  45-F-c  

190.  326 

arborescens  stertlis  .... 

19-C      

155 

Climbing    

34-B,  45-L       

260.333 

Garden  

45-F-a  

324 

hortensis      

43-F-a  .      . 

306 

Japanese     

43-F-a  

306 

Large-flowered      .... 

19-D,  19-1,  24-B-b      

156.  159,  181 

Large-flowered  Wild  . 

26-A-c,  45-F-c  

190,  326 

Oak-leaved      

22-B,  27,  45-F-c,  45-H-b.      .      . 

173.  193.  326.  329 

opuloides  hortensia      .      .     . 

45-F-a  

324 

opuloides  otaksa     .... 

16-C,  43-F-b,  43-F-e  

146.  306,  307 

Panicled     

19-D     

156 

paniculala  

19-D     

156 

paniculata  grandiflora 

19-D,  19-1,  24-B-b     

156,  159,  181 

petiolaris     

45-L      

333 

quercifolia  

22-B,  27,  45-F-c,  45-H-b  

173,  193,  326,  329 

Wild      

13-B-b,  19-D,  27,  28-A,  42-A-a  .     .     . 

131,  156,  193,  196.  296 

Hydrastis  canadensis 

28-B     

197 

Hydrophyllum  appendiculatum 

29-C      

205 

vtrgtntcum  ...... 

29-C      

205 

Hypericum  (in  variety) 

19-D,  19-F-b   

156,  158 

aitreum        .      .      .  '  . 

13-B-a,  33-E-b,  45-F-a    

130,  253,  324 

buckleyi      

22-C-b-l     

175 

calycinum  

28-B,  29-E-b,  29-H,  45-F-a  .... 

197.  207,  209,  324 

densiflorum       

24-A-a  

180 

glomeratum      

45-F-a  

324 

kalmianum  

26-B-c,  28-B    

191,  197 

tnoserianum      

13-A-a,  15-B,  29-H,  31-B-h,  45-F-a      . 

128,  139,  209,  226,  324 

nudiflorum  

45-F-a  

324 

patulum  henryi      .... 

13-A-a,  22-C-b-l   

128,  175 

prolificum  

45-F-a  

324 

Iberis  amara  coronaria  . 

32-G-a-2     . 

244 

sempervirens     

15-C,    29-A,    29-F,    31-B-b,    31-M-a, 

140,  204,  208,  223,  235,  253, 

umbellata    .      .      .      .      . 

33-E-b,  46-B-a,  
32-A,  32-B,  32-D,  32-G-a-2  .... 

336 
240,  241,  244 

Ilex  (in  variety)        .... 

44-G,  45-E,  45-G  

316,  323,  327 

aquifolium        

45-B-a,  46-A-b.  46-H-b    

320,  335,  340 

cassine  

43-D     

304 

crenata  

16-B-a,  20-B,  45-B-a,  46-A-b,  46-H-b  . 

145,  163,  320,  335,  340 

glabra    

12-B,    13-B-b,    16-B-b,   29-H,   40-C-b, 

124,  131,  145,  209,  291.  325 

45-F-b     

microphylla      

12-B      

124 

opaca    

20-B,   20-C,    20-D-b,    40-C-b,    43-B-a, 

163,   166.  291,  301,  302,  304, 

43-B-b,  43-D,  43-J-a,  45-B-a,  45-H-b 

310,  320,  329 

specimens  

43-B-b  

302 

13-B-c,    20-B,    20-C,    20-D-b,    24-A-a, 

131,  163.  166,  180.  190.  196 

26-A-c,  28-A      

Illustrations,  List  of.     . 

XXV 

Impatiens  balsamina 

32-A                      

240 

biflora   

31-N     

236 

pallida  

30-B      

213 

sultana        

35-B-b  

266 

Incarvillea  delevayi   .... 
Incense  Cedar     

45-1  
43-B-b,  45-B-a,  45-D,  45-E,  45-K-a      . 

330 
302.  320.  322.  323,  331 

Indian  Bean  406  Ivy 

NAME  GROUP  PAGE 

Indian  Bean 10-C,  19-C,  20-F,  24-C-a,  42-C,  44-G  .  117,  155,  167,  182,  298,  316 

Dwarf 16-B-b 145 

Indian-currant 13-A-a,     13-B-a,     17,    20-B,    20-D-a,  129,   130,   149,   163,   166,   182, 

20-D-b,  24-B-b,  26-B-e,  27,  29-E-a,  191,  193,  207,  314,  324,  337 

44-B-a,  45-F-a,  46-C-b.     .      .      . 

Indian  Paint 45-1 330 

Indigo,  Blue 31-B-e 224 

False 13-B-b,    19-H,   31-M-b,   42-A-b,   45-1,  130,  159,  235,  297,  330,  331 

45-J 

Tennessee  False    ....        45-F-a 323 

Yellow  False 31-B-d .  223 

Informal  Effects       ....        17 148 

Inkberry 12-B,  13-B-b,    16-B-b,   29-H,   40-C-b,  124,  131,  145,  209,  291,  325 

45-F-b 

Insecticides 76 

Insects,  Plants  subject  to    .      .        39 282 

Introduction 3 

Arrangement  of  the  material         3 

Evergreens  and  their  adapta- 
tion    6 

Grouping  of  plants,  method 

and  reason 6 

Illustrations,  The  purpose  of 

the 4 

Index  and  method  of  using 4 

Method  of  treatment 3 

Method  of  using  the  book 4 

Range  of  material 5 

Range  of  plant  adaptation  in 

general 6 

ipomoea  (in  variety)      .      .      .        35-A-c,  35-B-a 265 

hederacea 32-F-a 242 

purpurea 32-F-b,  38-C-a 242,  281 

Iresine  herbsti 32-G-b-l 244 

Undent 32-G-b-l,  35-B-c 244,  266 

Iris 31-A,  31-K-b,  39, 40-A,  45-1      .      .      .  222,233,284,289,330 

American  Dwarf  ....        29-F 208 

Celeste 31-H     .  231 

Crested 15-C,  29-F,  31-B-a,  31-C-b,  45-A-b.     .  140,208,222,228,320 

cristata 15-C,  29-F,  31-B-a,  31-C-b,  45-A-b.      .  140,  208,  222,  228,  320 

Dalmatian       .....        31-B-e 224 

Diseases  of .  284 

European  Dwarf  ....        31-B-a,  31-B-d 222, 224 

Fertilizing 113 

florentina 29-A 204 

Florida 43-1 309 

German  (in  variety)  .      .      .        31-B-a,  31-B-d,  31-F,  31-1,  37-A-c  .      .  222,  223,  230,  232,  277 

germanica 31-F,  31-1,  37-A-c 230,  232,  277 

germanica  flavescens    .      .      .        31-B-d 223 

germanica  hybrids.      .      .      .        31-B-a 222 

germanica  Kharput    .      .      .        31-H 231 

germanica — Queen  of  May    .        31-B-c 223 

hexagona 43-1 309 

Japanese 31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-F,  31-1,  31-L-c    .      .  224,  225,  230,  232,  235 

kaempferi 31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-F,  31-H,  31-1,  31-L-c  224,  225,  230,  231,  232,  235 

Lime  for 91 

Oriental 31-L-c .  235 

orientalis 31-L-c 235 

pallida  dalmatica  ....        31-B-e,  31-H 224,  231 

Pink  German 31-B-c 223 

Planting 39 

pseudacorus 31-B-d,  31-C-a,  31-L-b 224,227,234 

pumila 29-F 208 

pumila  azurea       ....        31-B-a  .      .      .     : 222 

pumila  hybrids      ....        31-B-d 224 

Rotting 39 

Siberian 31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-C-a 224,  225,  227 

sibirica 31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-C-a 224,  225, 227 

Transplanting  of 90 

verna 29-F 208 

versicolor 31-B-a,  31-C-a 222, 227 

Ironweed 38-C-a .  281 

Itea  virginica 13-B-a,   18-B,  24-A-a,  26-B-c,  37-A-a,  130,  151,  180,  191,  276,  326 

45-F-c 

Iva  ciliata 35-C-a 281 

Ivy,  Algerian 45-L 333 

Boston 34-B,  39,  45-A-b,  46-G 260,  284,  319,  338,  illus.  335 

Carrier's  Japanese  Evergreen       18-A 151 

English 28-B,  29-C,  34-B,  35-A-a,  35-B-a,  39,  197,  205,  260,  264,  265,   284 

40-B,   43-C-b,   43-G,   45-A-a,   45-L,  289,  303,  308,  319,  333,  336* 

46-B-b,  46-G 338 

Henry's 45-L 333 

Hybrid  Japanese  Evergreen.        28-B,  29-A,  29-C,  29-E-c       ....  197,204,205,207 


Ivy 


NAME 


Ivy,  Kenilworth 

Large-flowered  Kenilworth  . 

Lowe's  Boston       .... 

Scarlet-fruited  Japanese  Ever- 
green        

Small-leaved  English. 

Small-leaved  Japanese  Ever- 
green        

Summer 

Ixia 

Ixora  

coccinea 

colei       

flare  luteo 

rosea  splendens      .... 

Rose-coloured 

Scarlet  . 

White   . 

Yellow  . 


407 


GRODP 

15-C,  35-A-b.  35-B-a 
15-C     .     .     . 
34-B 


18-A,  29-A. 
15-C 


29-F 

35-B-a 

36-E-a 

43-J-b 

43-F-d 

43-F-a 


43-F-c 
43-F-b 
43-F-b 
43-F-d 
43-F-a 
43-F-c 


140.265 

140 

260 

151.  204 
140 

208 
265 
274 
310 
307 
306 
307 
306 
306 
307 
306 
307 


Juniperus 


PACE 


Jack-in-the-pulpit 
Jacobean  Lily 


Jacob's  Ladder,  American  . 
Jamestown  Weed  .  .  . 
Japanese  Gardens  . 

Books  on 

Japanese  Raisin  Tree    . 

Japonica 

Jasmine 

Cape,  See  Cape  Jasmine  . 

Carolina 

Carolina  Yellow    . 

Catalonian 

Confederate     .... 

Crape 

Double  Yellow      .     .      . 

Naked-flowered    . 

New  Chinese  . 


38-A      .     . 
36-E-b  .      . 
31-C-a,  45-1 
38-A      . 
15    . 


Orange . 
Red  Coral 


45-H-a 

43-F-b,  43-H,  45-B-a,  45-F-b,  45-H-b 
44-G,  45-F-a,  45-K-b,  45-L  .      .      . 


43-C-a,  43-G  .  . 
45-L  .... 
43-C-a  .... 
43-C-a,  45-L  .  . 
16-C  .... 
45-L  .... 
19-F-a,  43-F-c,  46-G 
43-F-c,  46-G 


Jasminum  (in  variety)  . 

grandiflorum    . 

nudiflorum 

officinale     .... 

primulinum 
Jerusalem  Cherry  Vine 
Jewel-weed    .... 
Joe-PyeWeed     .     .     . 
Juglans  cinerea    . 

nigra 

sieboldiana 

June  Berry    .... 
Juniper 

Chinese      .... 

Common    .... 

Dwarf 

Golden       .... 

Greek 

Irish 

Pfitzer's     .... 

Savin 

Silver-tipped  Chinese 

Slender  Greek       .     . 

Swedish      .... 

Trailing      .... 

Waukegan 
Juniperus  (in  variety)   . 

barbadensis 

chinensis     .... 

chinensis  albo-variegata 

chinensis  pfitzeriana    . 

communts   .... 

communts  aurea    . 

communts  depressa 

communts  hibernica    . 

communts  suecica  . 

excelsa 

excelsa  stricta  . 

horizontalis      ...      . 

horizontalis  douglasi   . 

lucayana  .... 

prostraia  .... 


43-D,  43-F-a 

43-F-b 

44-G,  45-F-a 

43-C-a 

19-F-a.  43-F-c,  46-G  .... 

45-L 

43-F-c,  45-K-b.  45-L,  46-G  .  . 
35-A-b,  35-B-a,  45-L   .  .  . 

30-B,  31-N 

31-C-a 

40-C-a,  45-H-a 

38-C-a,  40-C-a 

45-H-a 

13-A-b.  17 

9-B,  39.  42-E 

45-E 

9-A,  15-A,  24-B-b,'  25-A  .'  '.  '. 

18-A 

9-A 

9-C,  45-E 

16-A 

9-A 

9-A,  15-A,  26-B-b,  40-C-a  .  . 

45-E 

9-A,  16-D-b-2 

14-A-b,  16-A 

9-A.  18-A 

9-A 

9-B,  20-D-b,  29-E-a,  42-E,  44-F 

43-J-a  

45-E 

45-E 

9-A 

9-A,  15-A,  24-B-b,  25-A  .  .  . 
9-A 


18-A  .  .  , 

16-A  .  .  , 

14-A-b,  16-A  , 

9-C.  45-E  .  , 
9-A,  16-D-b-2 

9-A,  18-A  .  , 

9-A   .  .  , 

43-E-a  .  .  , 
26-A-b  . 


279 

274 

227.330 

279 

136 

344 

328 

306,  308,  320.  324,  329 
317,  324,  332,  333 

303.308 

332 

303 

303.333 

146 

332 

158,  307,  338 

307,338 

304,306 

306 

317,  324 

303 

158,  307,  338 

333 

307.  332,  333,  338 
265,  333 

213,  236 

227 

290,328 

281.  290 

328 

129.  149 

112.284,298 

323 

111,  138.  181, 186 

151 

111 

113,  323 

144 

111 

111,  138,  191.  290 

323 

111,  147 

135,  144 

111,  151 
111 

112,  166.  207,  298,  316 
310 

323 

323 

111 

111,  138.  181,  186 

111 

151 

144 

135,  144 

113,  323 
111.  147 
111,  151 
111 
305 
190 


Juniperus 

NAME 

Juniperus  sabina 
sabina  lamariscifolia 
scopulorum . 
cirginiana  . 


tirginiana  cannarti 
tirginiana  glauca  . 
cirginiana  globosa 
virginiana  pyramidalis 
virginiana  schotti  . 
tirginiana  tripartita 
Justicia,  Blue 


408 

GROUP 

9-A,  15-A,  26-B-b,  40-C-a    . 

15-A,  18-A 

9-A 

9-A,  9-D,  11-A,  12-C,  14-A-a,  16-A, 
24-B-a,  25-A,  25-A-b,  38-C-a,  44-A-a, 
44-D,  45-B-a 

9-A,  16-A 

16-A,  44-D,  45-D,  45-E 

9-E 

14-A-b 

9-A,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-2,  45-E  .     . 

18-A 

43-F-e  . 


Laurel 


PAGE 


111,  138,  191,  290 

128,  151 

111 

111,   113,   119,   125,  133,   144, 

181,  186,  190,  281,  313,  314, 

320 

111,  144 

144,  314,  322,  323 
114 
135 

111,  135,  145,  147,  323 
151 
307 


Kadsura  Tree 14-A-a,  16-A,  22-A,  45-E      ....  133,  144,  173,  322 

Kalmia  (in  variety)        .      .      .  13-B-b,  30-A,  40-B,  44-G      ....  131,  212,  289,  317 

angustifolia  18-A,  19-E-a,  24-A-b,  29-E-a,  33-E-b,  151,  157,  181,  207,  253,  279 

38-A 

Carolina 33-E-b 253 

lalifolia.  19-C,  19-E-b,  24-A-b,  27,  33-E-b,  38  A,  155,   157,   181,   193,  253,  279, 

40-C-b 291 

polifolia 33-E-b 253 

Kentucky  Coffee  Tree  ,     .      .        20-A,  45-H-a 162,328 

Kerria  (in  variety)   ....        44-G 317 

japonica 13-A-a,  19-F-b,  21,  40-B,  41,   42-A-a,  128,   158,   170,  289,  293,  296, 

45-F-c 326 

White 13-A-b.    19-B,    19-G-b,    20-B,    20-C,  129,   155,   159,   163.   191,   193, 

26-B-c,  27,  42-A-a 296 

Knapweed 31-B-h 225 

Kniphofia  pfttzeri      ....        31-B-l,  31-G 227,231 

uvona 31-B-k,  31-D,  31-1,  45-1 226,  229,  232,  330 

Knotweed 31-E,  34- A,  45-L,  46-G 230.  260,  333,  338,  illus.  334 

Koelreuterio  (in  variety)      .      .        42-B-a 297 

poniculata 14-A-a,    19-C,    19-F-b,    22-A,    24-D,  133,  155,  158,  173,  183,  328 

45-H-a 

Kudzu  Vine 29-E-c,  34-C,  34-E,  45-L,  46-G  .     .      .  207,  261,  333,  339 

Kumquat 43-D 304 

Labrador  Tea  24-A-b,  29-H,  33-E-b.  181,  209,  253 

Narrow-leaved      ....        33-E-b 253 

Laburnum  tulgare     ....        17,  19-F-b,  42-B-a 149,  158,  297 

Ladies'  Eardrop        ....        35-B-b 266 

Lady's  Slipper 28-B 197 

Small  White 24-A-a 180 

Lady's  Thumb 30-B 213 

Lagerstroemia  indica      .     ,     .  16-C,  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-d,  43-F-e,  146,306,307,310,329 

43-J-b,  45-H-b,  45-K-b       .... 

Lake  front  and  river  conditions       25 185 

Shrubs 25-B 187 

Trees 25-A 186 

Vines 25-C 187 

Lamium  maculatum        ,      .      .        28-B,  31-C-b 197,  228 

Lantana 35-B-a,  35-B-b,  43-1  ......  265,  266,  309 

comma 32-G-b-2 244 

Lantana  .  32-G-b-2, 35-B-a,  35-B-b,  43-1   .     .      .  244,  265,  266, 309 

Larch  14-A-a.  39 133, 284 

European 12-C,  23-A,  24-C-a 125,  177,  182 

Japanese 12-C,  16-D-b-l,  24-C-a 125,  147,  182 

Larix  (in  variety)     ....        14-A-a 133 

europaea     . 12-C.  23-A,  24-C-a 125,  177,  182 

laricina  24-A-a,  24-C-a,  26-A-b,  40-C-a  .      .      .  180,  182,  190, 290 

Uptolepis     .  12-C,  16-D-b-l,  24-C-a 125,  147,  182 

Larkspur  31-A,  31-B-«,  31-D,  31-1,  31-N,  38-A,  221,  224,  229,  232,  236,  279, 

45-1 330,  illus.  310 

Annual 32-A,  32-C,  32-H-b 240,241,246 

Chinese  31-B-f 225 

Everblooming       ....        31-F 230 

Lathyrus  latifoltus     ....        31-D,  34-A 229,260 

odoratus 32-A,  32-C 240,241 

Laurel  (in  variety)  ....  13-B-b,  30-A,  40-B,  44-G      ....  131,  212,  289,  317 

Carolina     .  .        33-E-b 253 

English.  45-B-a,  45-H-b,  45-K-b,  46-A-b,  46-H-b  321,  329,  332,  335,  340 

Hardy  English      ....        45-F-d 326 

Indian 43-B-b 302 

Japanese    .  16-C,   45-F-b,   45-G,   45-H-b,  45-K-b,  146,  324,  327,  329,  332,  335, 

46-A-b,  46-H-b 339 

Mountain 19-C,  19-E-b,  24-A-b,  27,  33-E-b,  38-A,  155,  157,  181,  193,  253,  279, 

40-C-b 291 

Portuguese  ....        46-A-b,  46-H-b 335, 340 

Sheep  18-A,  19-E-a,  24-A-b,  29-E-a,  33-E-b,  151,  157,  181,  207,  253,  279 
38-A  .                            .... 


Laurel 


409 


Lilac 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Laurel,  Spotted  Japanese    .      .        45-F-b  .     .  324 

Swamp 33-E-b 253 

Variegated  Japanese  .      .     .        45-H-b 329 

Laurestinus 43-E-a,  43-F-a,  45-B-a,  45-F-d,  45-H-b,  305,  306,  321,  326,  329,  332, 

45-K-b,  46-A-b 335 

Laurocerasus  caroliniana     .      .        43-D,  43-F-a,  45-E 304,  306,  323 

Laurus  nobilis 16-C,  45-F-d 146,  326 

Lavandula  vera 37-A-c,  37-B-b 277 

Lavatera  trimestris  splendens  .        32-C 241 

Lavender 37-A-c,  37-B-b  277 

Lavender  Cotton      ....        24-E,  29-B,  32-G-b-l,  37-B-b     .      .      .  184,  205.  244,  277 

Lawns — 52 

Books  on 345 

Keeping  free  from  weeds       . 86 

Northern  Lawns 52 

Drainage  of  lawn  areas 45 

Fertilizer  for  lawn  prepara- 
tion       53 

Preparation  of  lawn  areas 52 

Seeding  of  lawns 55 

Sodding 58 

Old  lawns.  Renovating  of 84 

Plantings  for 13-A 128 

Seasons  for  seeding illus.  14 

Southern  lawns     .  59 

Planting  and  seeding 61,  illus.  41 

Soil    and    climatic    condi- 
tions as  affecting 59 

Types  of  grasses  for .  60 

Types  of  soils 60 

Lawsonia  inermis      ....        43-F-a 306 

rubra 43-F-d 307 

Lead  Plant 18-B      .  ....  151 

Leadwort 15-C,  29-F.  31-B-i,  31-M-a  ....  140,  208,  226,  235 

Blue 43-F-e 307 

White 43-F-a 306 

Leather-flower 45-L 332 

Leather-leaf 18-A,  26-A-c,  29-H,  33-E-b  ....  151,  190,  209,  252 

Leather-wood 13-B-b,  26-B-c,  42-A-a,  45-F-c  .      .      .  131,  191,  296, 325 

Leaves,  Autumn  colouration  of.       22 171,  illus.  247 

Leaves,  Selected  for  fragrance.        37-B 277 

Ledum  groenlandicum     .      .      .        24-A-b,  29-H,  33-E-b 181, 209,  253 

palustre 33-E-b 253 

Leiophyllum 29-H 209 

buxifolium 29-B,  33-E-b,  45-F-b 204,  253, 325 

Lemon  Balm 31-N 326 

Lemon  Gum 43-J-a   .  310 

Leopard's  Bane 31-A,  31-B-d,  31-M-b,  40-A.      .      .      .  221,223,235,289 

Leptamnium  tirginianum     .      .        30-B 213 

Lespedeza  bicolor 45-F-c .  326 

japonicum 19-D 156 

sieboldi 19-D,  45-F-c 156, 326 

Leucanthemum 31-L-c 235 

lacustre 31-L-c 235 

Leucojum  aestivum    ....        31-L-c 235 

ternum  carpoticum      .      .      .        36-B 271 

Leucothoe  catesbaei    ....        28-A,  29-H,  33-E-b,  45-F-b  ....  196,  209,  253,  325 

Liatris  (in  variety)   ....        31-G     .  231 

pycnostachya 24-E,  31-C-a,  31-E,  45-J       ....  184,227,230,331 

scariosa 24-E 184 

Libocedrus  decurrens .      .      .      .        43-B-b,  45-B-a,  45-D,  45-E,  45-K-a      .  302,320,322,323,331 

Ligustrum 11-B,  12-D,  19-G-b.  20-B.  27.  42-A-a,  120,   125,   158,   163,   193.  296. 

44-G,  45-E 317,  323 

Accent  purpose Plate  XXV 

amurense 13-A-b,  22-C-b-l.  23-B.  43-E-b,  43-H,  129,   175,   177,  305,  308,  320, 

45-B-a,  46-F 338 

coriaclum 45-F-d 326 

ibota 16-B-b,  19-C,  20-C,  45-B-a,  46-A-a.     .  145,  155,  163,  320,  335 

ibota  regelianum    ....        12-B,  13-A-b,  26-A-c 124,  129,  190 

japonicum 22-C-b-l,  45-B-a,  46-H-b      ....  175,  320,  340 

lucidum 45-B-a,  45-K-b 320, 332 

nepalense 43-F-a,  45-B-a,  45-K-b 306,  320,  332 

nepalense  variegata      .      .      .        43-E-b,  43-H 305,  308 

ovalifolium 22-C-b-l,  45-B-b,  46-A-a 175,321,335 

quihoui • .        45-B-a,  45-K-b 320,  332 

sinense 45-B-a,  45-K-b 320, 332 

tulgare 16-B-b,  20-C,  26-A-c.  46-A-a      .      .      .  145,  163,  190,  335 

vulgar e  sempervirens    .      .      .        22-C-b-l 175 

Lilac 13-A-c,  19-B,  39,  42-A-a 130,155.284,297 

Common 11-B,     12-D.     12-E-a.    25-B.    37-A-a, 

40-C-b 120,  125,  126,  187,  276,  291 

Double  Blue    .  ...        19-H  159 


Lilac  410                                                     Lily 

NAME  GROUP                                                   PAGE 

Lilac,  Persian  .     .      .        13-A-b 129 

Tree  .        19-C 156 

Lilacs.  Hybrid 19-1.  33-A,  46-C-a 159.  249,  337 

Blue  to  bluish  lavender  .      .        33-A 249 

Double 33-A 249 

Single 33-A 249 

Deep  purple  red  to  reddish  .        33-A 249 

Double   .  ...        33-A 249 

Single 33-A 249 

Pink  to  rosy 33-A 249 

Double   .  .      .        33-A 249 

Single 33-A 249 

Select  list  of 33-A 249 

White 33-A 249 

Double   .  ...        33-A 249 

Single 33-A 249 

Lilies,  for: 33-F 253 

Accent  plants illus.  334 

Calcareous  soil      ....        33-F-d 257 

Clay  (if  well  drained)      .      .        33-F-h 257 

Culture  in  garden  soil      .      .        33-F-b 256 

Moist  and  boggy  situations  .        33-F-c 256 

Open  sun 33-F-e 257 

Sandy  or  dry  soils      ....  33-F-g 257 

Shady  places   ...  .        33-F-f 257 

Undergrowth  and  shrubbery 

borders 33-F-f 257 

Lilium  (in  variety)  .  .      .       31-A,  31-G,  40-A,  45-J 222,  231,  289,  331 

auratum  33-F-b,  33-F-i,  36-B 256,257,271 

bolanderi 33-F-g 257 

canadense  .  .     .        29-H,  33-F-c,  36-B 209,256,271 

candidum   .  31-H,  33-F-b,  33-F-d.  33-F-e,  33-F-h,  231,  256,  257,  271 

36-B 

carolinianum 33-F-g 257 

croceum  33-F-b,  33-F-e,  33-F-h 256,257 

elegans 33-F-e,  33-F-h 257 

hansoni.  ....        33-F-d,  33-F-h.  33-F-i 257 

hemyi 33-F-i.  43-1 257,  309 

japonicum 33-F-i .  257 

martagon 33-F-d,  33-F-e 257 

monadelpkum 33-F-d,  33-F-e,  33-F-h 257 

parryi   .  .      .        33-F-c,  33-F-i 256, 257 

parvum 33-F-c 256 

philadelphicum                       .  33-F-b,  33-F-e,  33-F-g,  33-F-h,  36-B    .  256,257,271 

regale     .  33-F-b 256 

roezli     .  ....        33-F-c 256 

speciosum  .  29-H,  31-H,  33-F-b,  33-F-f.  36-B    .      .  209,231,256,257,271 

superbum    .  .        29-H,  33-F-c 209,256 

Unuifolium  .     .     .        29-H,  33-F-b 209,256 

testoceum 33-F-d 256 

tigrinum     .                            .  33-F-b,  33-F-e,  33-F-h,  36-B      .      .      .  256,257,271 

wallacei 33-F-b 256 

washingtonianum  ....        33-F-i 257 

Lily  (in  variety)  .     .      .        31-A,  31-G,  40-A.  45-J 222, 231, 289, 331 

Alpine  . 33-F-a,  33-F-e,  33-F-h 256, 257 

American  Turk's  Cap      .     .        33-F-c 256 

Blue  Plantain       ....        31-B-e 224 

Roland's 33-F-g 257 

Caucasian 33-F-d,  33-F-e,  33-F-h 257 

Chilean 45-1 329 

Coral 33-F-b 256 

Day                                        .  31-B-h,  31-C-a,  31-F,  31-M-b,  43-1.     .  226,     227,      230,     235,     309, 

illus.  310 

European  Turk's  Cap      .      .        33-F-d,  33-F-e 257 

Fortune's  Plantain     .      .      .        31-B-e 224 

Fragrant  Orange  ....        37-A-c 277 

Gold-banded 33-F-b,  33-F-i,  36-B  ..........  256,  257.  271 

Golden  Turk's  Cap    .      .      .        33-F-d,  33-F-h,  33-F-i 256,  257, 271 

Japanese 29-H,  33-F-i,  36-B 209,257 

Large-flowered  Plantain        .        31-B-f 225 

Lemon.  .     .        3 1-L-c,  37-A-c 235, 277,  illus.  310 

Leopard 33-F-c 256 

List 33-F-a 253 

Madonna   .                 ...  33-F-b,  33-F-d,  33-F-e,  33-F-h,  36-B    .  256.257,271 

Nankeen 33-F-d 257 

Panther 29-H 209 

Parry's. 33-F-c,  33-F-i 256,257 

Plantain     .  29-A,  31-M-a,  37-A-c,  43-1,  45-1      .      .  204.  235, 277, 309,  330 

Royal 33-F-b 256 

Santa  Cruz 33-F-c 256 

Showy  .      .  33-F-b.  33-F-f,  36-B 256, 257, 271 

Siberian  Coral 29-H 209 

Siebold's  Plantain      .      .      .        31-B-e 224 


Lily 

411 

Lonicera 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

y.  Lily,  Sierra  Nevada 
Southern  Swamp  .... 

33-F-c  . 
33-F-g  

256  <•  
257 

Spear-leaved  Plantain 

31-B-e  . 

224 

Thunbergian    

33-F-e,  33-F-h. 

257 

Tiger     

33-F-b,  33-F-e,  33-F-h,  36-B      .     . 

256,  257,  271 

Turk's  Cap      

29-H     .      . 

209 

Wallace's  Thunbergian    .      . 

35-F-b  . 

256 

Washington     

33-F-i    . 

257 

Wild  Red   
Wild  Yellow    

33-F-b,  33-F-e,  33-F-g,  33-F-h,  36-B    . 
29-H,  33-F-c,  36-B 

256,  257,  271 
209,  256,  271 

Yellow  

43«I  

309 

Yellow  Showy  

33-F-i    . 

257 

Lily  Leek.      .      . 

45-J       

331 

Yellow  

36-B      .      . 

270 

Lily-of-the-valley     .     .     .     . 

28-B,  29-C,  31-B-b,  31-C-b,  31-1,  36-B, 

197,  205,  223,  228.  232,  270, 

36-E-a,  37-A-c  

274 

Limnocharis  humboldti  . 

43-1  

309 

Linaria  cynbalaria    .... 

15-C,  35-A-c,  35-B-a  

140,  265 

cymbalaria  maxima     . 

15-C      

140 

dalmalica    

24-E,  31-D       

184,229 

Linden      

37-A-b,  39       

276,  284 

American   

24-A-a,  44-E-a       

180,  315 

10-A,  46-F.      . 

117,  338 

Crimean     

10-A,  46-D      

117,  337 

European   

11-A      

119 

Silver    

10-A,  11-A,  14-A-a     

117,  119,  134 

Linnaea  borealis  .      .      .      .     • 

15-A,  29-F  

138,208 

Linum  perenne    .      .      .      .     , 

15-C,  31-B-a,  31-H     

140,  222,  231 

Liquidambar  slyraciflua.      .     . 

10-B,  14-A-a,  20-A,  22-A,  40-B,  40-C-a, 

117,   133,   162,   173,  289,  291, 

43-B-a,  43-J-a,  45-C,  45-H-a  .     .     . 

301,  310,  320,  328 

Liriodendron  

42-C      . 

298 

tulipifera    

10-B,  20-A,  22-A,  40-B.  40-C-b       .      . 

117,  162,  173,  289,  291 

tulipifera  pyramidalis 

14-A-b  

135 

107 

Lithospermwn  canescens 
Lobelia     

45-1 
32-E,  35-B-a,  45-1      

330 
242,  265,  330 

Lobelia  (in  variety)  .     .     .  '  v  • 

35-A-a,  45-1     

264,330 

Annual       

35-A-a  

264 

Blue  Compact  

32-G-a-2     

244 

cardinalis   

31-B-g,  31-C-a,  31-L-c     

225.  227,  235 

Double       

32-G-a-2     

244 

ertnus    

32-E     

242 

32-G-3-2     

244 

erinus       compacta       Crystal 

Palace    

32-G-a-2     . 

244 

erinus  flore  plena  .... 

32-G-a-2     

244 

erinus  tricolor  

32-G-a-2     

244 

speciosa      

35-B-a  _  .     . 

265 

Spotted       

32-G-3-2     

244 

syphilitica  

31-B-e  

224 

White  Compact    .... 

32-G-3-2     

244 

Loblolly  Bay  

43-B-a,  43-B-b.  43-D-a    

301,  302.  305 

Loco-  weed,  Slender  .... 

38-A      

279 

Locust      

39,  42-C     

284,298 

Black    

10-C,    11-A,    17,    19-C,    19-C-b,   23-  A, 

117,   119,   149,    155,   159,   177, 

24-B-a,  24-D,  25-A,  26-B-3,  37-A-b, 

181,  183,  186,  191,  276,  297 

42-B-b     

Chinese  Honey     .... 

45-C,  45-H-3   

321,  328 

Honey  

10-C,  12-A-b,  20-A,  20-F,  24-D,  26-B-a, 

117,   124,   162,   167,   183,   191, 

37-A-b,  45-H-a  

276,  328 

Long-spined  Honey    . 

45-C      

321 

Japanese  Honey    .... 

45-C,  45-H-a   

321,  328 

Pyramidal  Black  .... 

14-A-b  .                 

135 

Thornless  

46-D     

337 

Lolium  temulentum  .... 

38-A      

279 

Lonicera  (in  variety) 

20-D-3,    20-D-b,    23-B,    34-A,    34-C, 

165,   166,   177.  260,  261.  296, 

42-A-a,  45-G       

327 

bella      

12-D,  13-A-c.  19-B     

125,  130,  155 

browni  

45-A-b  

320 

flava       

38-C-b  

281 

fragrantissima       .... 

12-A-b.  17,  18-B,  19-A,  19-F-a,  22-C-b-l. 

124,   149,   151.   154.   158.   175, 

37-A-a,  41,  45-B-b  

276.  293.  321 

heckrotti      

45-A-b  

320 

japonica  halliana  .... 

18-B,  22-C-b-2,  24-B-c,  24-C-c,  25-C, 

151.   175,   182,   183,   187,  207, 

29-E-c,    34-E.    43-C-a,    43-G.    44-G, 

261,  303,  308,  317.  320.  336. 

45-A-b,  46-B-b,  46-G    

338 

maacki  

12-D,  13-A-c,  46-C-a        

125,  130,  336 

morrowi      .      .      .      .      . 

13-A-c,  19-B,  19-G-a,  20-B,  46-E    .     . 

130,  155,  158,  163,  338 

periclymenum  belgica  . 

46-G      

338 

29-E-a  

207 

sempervirens     

22-C-b-l,  43-C-3,  43-G    

175,  303,  308 

spinosa  alberti       .... 

15-B.  18-B,  29-E-s,  37-A-a  .... 

139,  151,  207.  276 

standishi     

19-A,  22-C-b-l,  45-F-c     .     .     „     .     . 

154.  175,  326 

Lonicera 


NAME 

Lonicera  syringantha 
tatarica 


tatarica  alba 

xylosteum 

Loose-strife,  Common  Yellow  . 

Japanese 

Pink 

Lotus  (in  variety)  .... 

American 

corniculatus 

Love-in-a-mist 

Low-growing  plants  along  the 
inner  side  of  curving  road- 
ways and  at  entrances .  . 

Deciduous 

Evergreen 

Lunaria  annua 

Lupine 


4I2 

GROUP 

29-E-a  .  ... 

12-D,  13-A-c,  16-A,  19-B,  19-1,  20-B, 

26-A-c,  27, 42-B-a,  44-A-a.      .     .     . 

19-G-a 

12-E-e,  37-A-a 

31-L-c 

31-C-a 

31-B-g.  31-E,  31-L-c 

31-L-a 

43-1 

29-F 

32-A,  32-C,  32-D 


Perennial 

Lupinus  hirsutus 

polyphyllus      .... 
Lychnis 

alba 

chalcedonica      .... 

coronaria 

dioica 

viscaria  splendens 
Lycium  barbarnm 

chinense      

halimifolium     .... 
Lyonia  liguslrina 
Lysimachia  clethroides    . 

nummulario     .... 

vulgar  is 

Lythrum  salicaria  roseum    . 

salicaria  roseum  superbum 


18 

18-B 

18-A 

31-J 

32-C 

31-B-h 

24-E,  31-B-e 

32-C 

24-E,  31-B-e 

31-C-a,  31-N 

31-J 

31-B-g 

31-B-g,  31-D,  31-J,  31-K-a,  45-1      . 

31-J 

15-C,  31-B-g 

26-A-c 

26-B-c 

24-B-c,  25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  44-B-b. 

26-A-c 

31-C-a 

28-B,  29-A,  29-C,  35-B-a,  45-A-a    . 

31-L-c 

31-E,  31-L-c    ....... 

31-B-g '. 


Maidenhair  Tree 


PAGE 

207 

125,  130,   145,   155,   159,   163. 
190,  193,  297,  313 

158 

126,  276 
235 
227 

225,  230,  235 

234 

310 

208 

240;  241 


150 

151 

151 

233 

241 

226 

184,224 

241 

184,224 

227,  236 

233 

225 

225,  229,  233,  330 

233 

140,225 

190 

191 

182,  187,  207,  261,  314 

190 

227 

197,  204,  205,  265,  319 

235 

230,235 

225 


Mackaya 
Madura  pomifera 
Madre      .... 
Madrona  .... 
Madwort 

Silvery         .    . 
Magnolia  (in  variety) 

acuminate  . 
Chinese  Purple 
Chinese  White      . 
conspicua    . 
denudata     .     .     . 
glauca         .     -. 
grandiflora 
Great-leaved    . 
hypoleuca    .      ,-\  . 
macrophylla     . 
soulangeana 
Soulange's        .      . 
Starry  .... 
stellata  .      . 
Swamp       .     ,     . 
tripetala 

Yulan   .... 
Mahonia  (in  variety) 
aquifolium 


Chinese 
Creeping    . 
fortunei. 
Japanese    . 
japonica 
nervosa  . 
pinnata . 
pinnata  wagneri 
Pinnate-leaved 
repens   . 
Southwestern  . 
Maidenhair  Tree . 


43-F-e 

12-A-b,  20-A,  23-A . 

43-J-a 

46-H-b 

43-1 

15-C 

14-A-a,  19-A,  39,  40-B,  42-B-a,  43-B-a, 

44-G,  45-C,  45-G,  45-H-a,  45-K-a     . 

20-A,  45-C,  45-H-a 

45-G 

37-A-a 

37-A-a 

45-H-a 

19-B,  37-A-a    . 

43-B-a,  45-C,  45-G,  45-H-a,  45-K-a      . 

45-H-a 

45-G 

45-H-a 

19-E-a,  45-H-a 

19-E-a,  45-H-a 

13-A-b,  19-G-a 

13-A-b,  19-G-a 

19-B,  37-A-a 

45-C,  45-G 

45-H-a .     . 

42-B-a,  44-G 

12-A-a,  19-A,  22-C-a-,  24-B-b,  33-E-b, 

40-C-b,  45-F-b,  45-F-d.  46-A-b    . 

45-F-d 

15-A,  18-A,  28-B,  29-C,  33-E-b,  45-F-b 

45-F-d 

45-F-d 

45-F-d 

46-E 

45-F-d  . 

33-E-b 

33-E-b 

15-A,  18-A,  28-B,  29-C,  33-E-b,  45-F-b 

45-F-d 

10-B,  11-A,  22-C-a,  45-C,  45-H-a    . 


307 

124,  162,  177 

310 

339 

309 

139 

133,  154,  284,  289,  297,  301, 

317,  321,  327,  328,  331 
162,  321,  328 
327 
276 
276 
328 

155,  276 

301,  321,  327,  328,  331 
328 
327 
328 

157,  328 
157,  328 
129,  158 
129,  158 
155,  276 
321,  327 
328 

297,  317 
124,  154,  174,  181,  253,  291, 

325,  326,  335 
326 

138,  151,  197,  205,  253,  325 
326 
326 
326 
338 
326 
253 
253 

138,  151,  197,  205,  253,  325 
326 
117,  119,  174,  321,328 


Maintenance 


413 


Maple 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGB 


Maintenance 73 

Chemicals  used  in  spraying  .         76 

Different   types  of  gardens, 

Maintenance  of 94 

Annual  flower  gardens 94 

Cutting     gardens,    Mainte- 
nance of 97 

Informal      flower      gardens. 

Maintenance  of.     ...         .       .      .  ' 96 

Refined     flower     gardens, 

Maintenance  of 96 

Rock      gardens.     Mainte- 
nance of 97 

Rose  gardens,  Maintenance 

of 97 

Wall  gardens,  Maintenance 

of 98 

Water    gardens,    Mainte- 
nance of 99 

Wild  gardens,  Maintenance 

of 95 

Evergreens,  Maintenance  of.         83 

Fertilizing  annuals 91 

Forms  of  sprays 77 

Formulas  for  sprays   ...         79 

Lawns,  Maintenance  of 84 

Enemies  to  lawns 86 

Fertilizing  lawns 84 

Mowing  lawns 87 

Rolling  and  weeding 86 

Watering  lawns 85 

Outfits  for  spraying    ...         78 

Perennials,  Maintenance  of 87 

Diseases  of  perennials  and 

control 93 

Dividing    perennials    and 

renovating  beds  ...         88 

Fertilizing  perennials 91 

Mulching     perennials     for 

winter  protection      .      .         87 

Removing  seed  pods  and 

general  care 93 

Watering  perennials     .      .        92 

Requirements 73 

Rhododendrons    and    other 

broad-leaved  evergreens 82 

Fertilizing  rhododendrons 83 

Season  for  spraying    ...        „__  .  76 

Shrubs,  Maintenance  of 81 

Spraying  don'ts 81 

Spraying  trees  and  shrubs 75 

Symptoms  and  treatments 80 

Trees,  Maintenance  of 73 

Fertilizing  trees 74 

Tree  surgery 73 

Watering  trees 74 

Vines,  Maintenance  of 83 

Mallow 32-C 241 

Marsh 45-J 331 

Musk 37-A-c  . 277 

Swamp 31-B-j,  31-B-k,  31-E,  31-L-c      .      .      .  226,230,235 

Mallow  Marvels 31-M-b 235 

Malpighia  coccigera  ....        43-D 304 

Maltese  Cross 31-B-g 225 

Malt/a  moschata 37-A-c 277 

Malvaviscus  arboreus      .      .      .        43-F-d 307 

Mandrake 28-B 198 

Mangifera  indica      ....        43-B-b,  43-D 302,  304 

Mango 43-B-b,  43-D 302,  304 

Manilla  Grass 43-G     ...........  308 

Manure,  How  to  use  for 

Bulbs 66 

Irises 91 

Peonies 91 

Maple  (in  variety)    ....        30-A,  30-B,  39 212,  284 

Columnar  Sugar   ....        16-A,  16-D-b-l 144,  147 

Drummond's 38-C-b  ...  ....  281 

European  Cork     ....        13-A-b,  16-B-b,  16-D-a,  45-B-b.      .      .  124,  145,  146,  321,  illus.  158 

Globe  Norway      ....        16-B-b 145 

Japanese 14-A-a,     15-B,    22-B,    40-C-6,    44-G,  133,  139,  173,  290,  316, 336 

46-C-a 

Norway 10-B,  22-C-a,  44-E-b,  46-D  ....  117,  173,  315,  337 

Oregon 46-D 337 


Maple 

4H 

Mock  Orange 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Maple.  Pyramidal  Silver     . 
Pyramidal  Sugar  .... 

12-C,  12-D,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l 
14-A-b  .           ... 

125,  134,  144,  147 
134 

Red  

19-A,    20-B,    22-A,    24-A-a,    24-C-a, 

154,   162,   173,   180.   182,   189, 

26-A-a,  38-C-b,  40-B,  43-B-a,  44-C-a, 

281,  289,  301,  314.  338 

46-F 

Schwedler's  Purple     .      .     . 

14-A-a  

133 

Siberian      

12-C,  22-A,  25-A,  26-B-a,  46-F  . 

125,  173,  186.  191,  338 

Silver    

12-E-e,  23-A,  40-B     . 

126,  177,  289 

Soft  

10-C,  44-E-b    .      . 

117,  315 

Striped       

21,  27    

169,  193 

Sugar  

10-A,     22-A,     24-C-a,     28-A,     44-C-a, 

116,  173,  182,  196,  314,  315 

44-E-a    

Sycamore  .      .     .    •. 

46-D     .      .      . 

337 

Tartarian  

12-C,  44-A-b   .      .      . 

125,  313 

Vine      

46-C-b,  46-F    .      . 

337,  338 

Marguerite,  Hardy  .... 
Marigold,  African  varieties 

31-A,  31-B-h,  31-D,  31-K-c.  45-1     .      . 
32-A,  32-H-a  .      .      . 

221,  225,  229,  233,  330,  illus.  294 
240,246 

French       

32-H-a        

246 

Marsh  

31-L-b,  31-L-c  

234,235 

Pot       

32-A,  32-H-a   

240,245 

Tall  Double  African  .      .      . 

32-H-b       .      . 

246 

Mascarene  Grass      .... 

43-G     

308 

Mass  plantings,  Shrubs  for 
Matrimony  Vine      .... 

13-A      .      .      . 
24-B-c,  25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  44-B-b.     . 

128 
182,  187,  207,  261,  314 

African  

26-A-c  

190 

Chinese      

26-B-c  

191 

Matthiola       

32-H-b 

246 

incana         

32-A,  32-E,  32-H-a     . 

240,  242,  246 

tncana  annua  

32-H-a        

246 

Maurandia  (in  variety)  .      .      . 

35-A-a,  35-B-a      

264,265 

Maurandy  Vine  (in  variety)     . 
Meadow  Beauty  

35-A-a,  35-B-a      
24-A-a  

264,265 
180 

Meadow-rue  

15-C,  30-A,  31-B-b,  31-C-a,  31-L-c,  45-1 

140,  212,  223,  228,  235,  330 

Meadow-sweet    

19-C.  26-A-c,  29-E-a  

156,  190,  207 

Herbaceous     

31-C-a,  45-1     

227,330 

Japanese    

31-C-a  

227 

Medlar     

43-D     

304 

Meiboma  

30-B     

213 

Melia    azedarach    umbraculifor- 

- 

mis        

43-B-a,  45-H-a,  45-K-a   

301,  328,  331 

Melissa  officinalis     .... 

31-N     

236 

Menispermum  canadense 
Meratia  praecox  
Mertensia  tirginica  .... 

44-B-b,  45-L    
45-F-a  
29-H,  31-B-a,  45-J     

314,333 
324 
209,  222,  331 

Mice,  Protection  against     .      . 
M  ichelia  fuscata  

43-F-c,  45-F-d,  45-K-b    . 

116 
307.  326,  332 

Mignonette    

29-1,  32-A,  32-B,  32-D    .      .      . 

210,  240,  241 

Milfoil,  Yellow    

29-A,  31-B-h   

203,225 

Milkweed,  Red   

24-A-a  

180 

Swamp       

31-L-c  

234 

Milkwort       

29-C      

205 

Box-leaved      

33-E-b  

253 

Mimosa    

43-B-a,  45-H-a,  45-K-a   

301,  327,  331 

Minnesota,  Plants  for    .      .     . 

44    

312 

Autumn  colouration  of  leaves 

44-C      

314 

Early      

44-C-a  

314 

Medium       

44-C-b  

314 

Evergreens      

44-F      

315 

Ground  cover  

44-B     

313 

Shrubs    

44-B-a  

313 

Vines      

44-B-b        

314 

Hedges       

44-A     

313 

Barriers        

44-A-a  

313 

Windbreaks  

44-A-b  

313 

Heavy,  formal  effects 

44-D     

314 

Plants  not  hardy  in  Minne- 

sota      

44-G     

316 

Street  trees      

44-E     

315 

Adapted  to  special  condi- 

tions     

44-E-b  

315 

Entirely  hardy 

44-E-a  

315 

Miscanthus  (in  variety) 

31-E,  31-L-c    

230,235 

compactus  .       ..... 

38-C-a  

280 

Miscellaneous  book  references 

345 

Mist  Flower  

31-B-i,  31-1,  31-L-c    . 

226,  232,  235 

Mitchella  repens  

15-C,  24-A-a,  28-B,  29-B,  29-C,  29-H, 

140,   180,   197,  204,  205,  209, 

30-A,  31-C-b     

212,  228 

Mixtures  of  grass  seed   . 
Mock  Orange      

19-C,  19-G-b,  27,  41,  42-A-a 

55 
155,  158,  193,  293,  296 

Common    

12-E-e,  13-A-c,  19-1,  25-B,  37-A-a  .      . 

126,  130.  159.  187.  276 

Dwarf  

12-B,  15-B  

124,  139 

Falconer's  

13-A-c  

130 

Golden  Dwarf  

12-B      

124 

Mock  Orange 


NAME 


415 

GROUP 


Naturalizing 


PAGE 


Mock  Orange,  Gordon's  . 

46-E 

338 

Hybrid  

37-A-a  

276 

Large-flowered      .... 

17,  23-B     

149,  177 

Lemoine's  

46-C-a  

337 

Native  

46-C-b,  46-E   . 

337,338 

Scentless    

28-A      

197 

Moist  soils,  Ground  cover  for  . 

29-A      

203 

Monarda  

37-A-c,  45-J     

277,  331 

didyma       

31-B-g,  31-H,  31-K-a.  37-B-b    .      .      . 

225,  231,  233,  277 

fistulosa       

31-C-a  

227 

Moneywort    

28-B,  29-A,  29-C.  35-B-a,  45-A-a    .      . 

197,  204,  205,  265,  319 

Monkshood    

31-B-i,  31-G,  31-N,  38-A,  45-1   .      .     . 

226,  231,  236,  279,  329 

Wilson's     

31-E      

229 

Moonseed,  Common 

44-B-b,  45-L    

314,333 

Moon  Vine    

32-F-b  

242 

Morning  Glory    

35-A-c.  35-B-a      

265 

Common    

32-F-b.  38-C-a      

242,  281 

Japanese    

32-F-b  

242 

MOTUS  Tubra  

20-D-a,  40-B   

165.289 

alba  tatarica     

23-A      

177 

alba  tatarica  pendula  . 

14-A-a  

133 

Moss,  Flowering  

15-A,  29-F,  29-H,  33-E-b      .... 

139,  208,  209,  253 

Rose     

29-1.  32-B,  32-G-a-2  

210,  241,  244 

Mother  of  Thyme    .... 

32-G-a-l     

243 

Mountain  Rose  

43-C-a,  45-L    

302,332 

Mourning  Bride       .... 

31-B-e,  31-1,  32-A      

224,  232,  240 

Mulberry       

23-A,  39,  44-G      

177,  284,  316 

Paper    

43-B-a.  45-H-a      

301,  327 

Red       

20-D-a,  40-B   

165,  289 

Tea's  Weeping      .... 

14-A-a  

133 

Mulching        

Fertilizers  for  (See  Fertilizers) 

For  the  winter       .... 

100 

Mullein,  Clasping-leaved    . 

24-E 

184 

Greek    

24-E      

184 

Nettle-leaved  

31-D     

229 

Purple  

24-E      

184 

Musa  (in  variety)     .... 

43-D     

304 

ensete    

16-C      

146 

Muscari  botryoides    .... 

36-A      . 

270 

Mushroom     

38-A      

279 

Mustard,  Rock-loving  Hedge  . 

15-C      

140 

Myosotis  alpestris      .... 

32-B      . 

241 

palustris     

29-A,  31-C-b,  31-L-c,  32-D  .... 

204,  228,  235,  241 

paluslris  semperflorens 
Myrica  (in  variety)  .... 

31-B-a,  31-D   
44-G     

222,  229 
317 

carolinensis       

40-C-a,  45-F-c  

290,  326 

cerifera       

13-A-a,    13-B-a,     18-B,     20-B,    20-C, 

129,  130,  151.  163,  166,  174, 

20-D-b,  22-C-a,  24-B-b.  25-B.  26-A-c, 
29-E-a,  43-J-b,  45-F-c    

181,  187.  190,  207,  310,  326 

gale       

28-A,  45-F-c    

197,  326 

Myricaria  germanica 
Myrtle,  Downy  

45-F-c  
43-D,  43-F-b   

326 
304,306 

Sand     

29-B.  33-E-b,  45-F-b       

204,  253,  325 

True     

45-F-d  

326 

Myrlus  communis     .... 

45-F-d  

326 

Nandina  domestico    .... 

45-F-d.  45-G,  45-K-b 

326.  327,  332 

Japanese    

45-F-d,  45-G,  45-K-b  

326,  327,  332 

Narcissus  (in  variety)    . 

36-A,  39,  45-J       

270,  285,  331 

barri      

36-A     

270 

htnsfieldi     

36-E-b  

274 

incomparabilis  

36-A     

270 

leedsi     

36-A     

270 

leedsi  amabilis       .... 

36-B      

271 

Paper  White    

36-E-b  

274 

poeticus       

36-A,  36-B  

270,  271,  illus.  366 

Poet's   

36-A,  36-B  

270,  271,  illus.  366 

polyanthus        

36-E-b  

274 

Trumpet     

36-E-b  

274 

Trumpet  Major    .... 

36-A,  36-B  

270,  271 

Yellow  Paper  White  .     .     . 
Nasturtium    

36-E-b  
32-A,  32-C,  35-A-b,  35-B-a,  43-1     .     . 

274 
240,  241,  265,  310 

Dwari  

32-G-b-2     

244 

Native  collected  shrubs  . 

13-B     

130 

Native  plants,  Books  on 

345 

Natural  informal  effects 

17    

148 

Naturalizing,  Bulbs  for  .     .     . 

36-B      

270 

In  wild  garden  

36-B     

270 

Perennials  

31-C     

227 

Shrubs  

28-A      

196 

Nelumbo 


416 


Opuntia 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Nelumbo  (in  variety)     .      .     .  31-L-a,  43-1 234, 310 

Nemopanthus  mucronata      .      .  26-A-c 190 

Ntpela  glechoma 29-A,  29-F,  35-A-a,  35-A-c.  35-B-a        .  204,  208,  264.  265 

mussini 15-C,  24-E 140,  184 

Nerium  (in  variety)        .      .      .  16-C .146 

oleander 43-E-a,  43-E-b,  43-F-a,  43-J-b,  45-H-b.  305,  306,  310,  329 

oleander  DeBrun  ....  43-F-d 307 

oleander  Savort     ....  43-F-b 306 

Nettle  Tree 10-B,     11-A,    20-D-a,    20-F,    26-B-a.  117,   119,   165,   167,  191,  301, 

43-B-a,  44-C-a,  44-E-a,  45-C    .    .      .  314,  315,  321 

Chinese 45-C 321 

Neviusia  alabamensis      .      .      .  45-F-c 326 

New  Jersey  Tea        ....  13-B-a.  18-B,  27.  28-A,  42-A-b  ...  130.  151,  193,  196,  297 

Hybrid 45-F-a 323 

Nicotiana 32-E 242 

Nierembergio  gracilis      .      .      .  35-B-b 266 

Nigella  damascena    ....  32-A,  32-C,  32-D 240,  241 

Nightshade,  Deadly.     .      .      .  38-A 279 

Woody 34-D 261 

Ninebark 11-B,    17,    19-G-b,   20-B.    23-B,   28-A  120,   149,   158,   163,   177.   197, 

42-A-a 296 

Norfolk  Island  Pine.      .      .     .  43-B-b 301 

Nuphar 43-1 310 

Nut  Trees 20-F 167 

Nymphaea 43-1 310 

alba 31-L-a 234 

marliacea 31-L-a 234 

odorata 31-L-a 234 

odorata  sulphured  ....  31-L-a 234 

Nyssa  aquatica 45-H-a 328 

sylvattca 14-A-a,  20-D-a,  22-B,  24-A-a,  40-C-a,  133,   165,  173,   180,  290,  321, 

45-C,  45-H-a 328 

Oak 14-A-a.  30-B.  39   ....  134,213,285 

Black 10-A.  22-B 117,173 

California  White  ....  24-D 183 

English 16-A.  16-D-b-l.  45-E 145,  147,  323 

Korean 45-H-a,  45-K-a 328,331 

Laurel 16-D-a,  43-B-a,  45-C,  45-H-a,  45-K-a  .  147.  301,  321,  328,  331 

Live 43-B-a,  45-C 301,322 

Mossy  Cup 25-A 186 

Pin 10-B,  11-A,  24-A-a,  45-C      ....  117,  119,  180,  322 

Pyramidal  English     .     .     .  14-A-b 135 

Red 10-A,    22-B,    24-B-a.    26-A-a,  40-C-b,  116,   173,   181,   189,  291,  314, 

44-C-b,  44-E-a,  45-C       315, 322 

Scarlet 10-A,  22-C-a,  44-E-a,  45-C,  46-D,  46-F  116,174,315,321,337,338 

Shingle 45-C 321 

Spanish 45-H-a 328 

Swamp  Spanish    ....  45-H-a 328 

Swamp  White 24-A-a 180 

Water 38-C-a,    43-A.    43-B-a.    45-C.    45-H-a,  281,  301,  321.  328,  331 

45-K-a 

White 10-A.  22-C-a.  24-A-a 116,  174,  180 

Willow 43-B-a,  45-C,  45-K-a 301,322,331 

Yellow  Chestnut  ....  45-H-a 328 

Ocean  Spray 46-C-b 337 

Oenolhera  (in  variety)    .      .      .  37-A-c,  45-1 277, 330 

biennis 31-C-b 228 

fruticosa 24-E 184 

fruticosa  youngi     ....  31-D 229 

missouriensis 31-B-h,  31-H 226,  232 

speciosa 24-E 184 

Oleander 16-C.  43-E-a.  43-E-b,  43-J-b,  45-H-b    .  146,  305,  310.  329 

Double  Crimson   ....  43-F-d 307 

Pink 43-F-b 306 

White 43-F-a 306 

Oleaster,  Broad-leaved  .     .     .  45-F-a 325 

Bronze 16-C 146 

Japanese 19-F-a,  20-B,  45-F-c 157,  162,  325 

Yellow-spotted     ....  45-G 327 

Olive,  American       ....  21    ..  170 

Florida 43-F-a 306 

Fragrant 37-A-a.  45-B-a,  45-H-b,  46-H-b.      .      .  276,  320,  329,  340 

Russian 12-D,    12-E-b,    19-F-a.    24-D.    25-A.  125.   126,   157,   183.   186,   196, 

42-A-a,  46-C-b 337 

Sweet 43-F-a,  43-H.  45-B-a 306.308.320 

Onoclea  sensibilis      ....  28-B,  29-D-b 197,206 

strntkiopteris 28-B,  29-D-b 197,  206 

Opuntia  tulgaris       ,     ,     ,     ,  45-A-b 320 


Orange 


417 


Passiflora 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Orange 43-D 304 

Hardy 12-A-b,  43-E-b.  45-B-b,  45-H-a.      .      .  124,  305,  321,  328 

Kid  Glove 43-D 304 

Osage 12-A-b,  20-A,  23-A,  39 124,  162,  177,  285 

Wild 43-D,  43-F-a,  45-E 304,  306,  323 

Orchis,  Yellow-fringed   .      .      .  45-J 331 

Oregon  and  Washington,  Plants 

for  use  on  Coastal  Plain  of  46 334 

Evergreens  most  used      .      .  46-H 339 

Broad-leaved     ....  46-H-b 339 

Conifers 46-H-a 339 

Hedges 46-A 335 

Deciduous 46-A-a        335 

Evergreen 46-A-b 335 

Plants  for  border  planting    .  46-C 336 

Native  and  collected    .      .  46-C-b 337 

Refined  lawn  masses    .      .  46-C-a 337 

Plants  for  ground  cover  .      .  46-B 335 

Open  sun 46-B-a 336 

Shade 46-B-b 336 

Plants    for    heavily    shaded 

locations 46-E 337 

Plants  valuable  for  autumn 

colouration  of  leaves      .  46-F 338 

Vines 46-G 338 

Oregon  Grape 12-A-a,  19-A,  22-C-a,  24-B-b,  33-E-b,  124,   154,   174,   181,  253,  291 

40-C-b,  42-B-a,  44-G,  45-F-b,  45-F-d,  297,  317,  325,  326,  335 

46-A-b 

Dwarf. 46-E 338 

Ornamental  plants  subject  to 

disease  and  insect  pests.  39 282 

Ornamental  trees  and  shrubs, 

Books  on 345 

Ornithogalum  umbellatum     .      .  36-B 271 

Orris  Root 29-A 204 

Osier,  Golden-twigged   .     .     .  14-B,  21 135,  170 

Osmanthus  americanus   .      .      .  43-F-a 306 

aquifolium 37-A-a,  45-B  a,  45-H-b.  46-H-b .      .      .  276,320,329,340 

fragrant 43-F-a,  43-H,  45-B-a 306,  308,  320 

Osmunda  cinnamomea    .      .      .  24-A-a,  29-D-b 180,  206 

claytoniana 28-B,  28-D-a 197,  206 

regalis 24-A-a,  29-D-b 180,  206 

Ostrya  eirginiana      ....  22-C-a,  30-A,  30-B,  40-C-a  ....  174,  212,  213,  290 

Oxalis 35-B-a .  265 

Oxalis 30-A 212 

corniculata 32-G-a-l 243 

Creeping 32-G-a-l 243 

floribunda 35-B-a 265 

Oxydendrum  arboreum    ...      .  14-A-a,  19-D,  22-A,  45-H-a  ....  133,  156,  173,  328 

Oxytropus  lambertini      .      .      .  38-A 279 

Pachistima  canbyi     ....  15-A,  24-A-b,  28-B 138,  181,  197 

Pachysandra  caroliniana      .      .  29-C 205 

terminate 15-A,  15-C,  29-B,  29-C,  29-E-b,  29-H,  138.    140,  204,  205,  207,  209, 

33-E-b,  46-B-a,  46-B-b       ....  253,  335,  illus.  270 

Paeonia  (in  variety)      .      .      .  31-A,  31-H,  31-1,  31-K-a,  40-A  .      .      .  222,  231,  232,  233,  289 

albiflora  sinensis    ....  31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-F,  37-A-c.      .      .      .  225,230,277 

festiva  maxima      ....  31-H 231 

officinalis 31-B-c,  45-1 223, 330 

officinalis  alba        ....  31-B-b 223 

suffruticosa 31-B-b,  31-B-c,  45-1 223,330 

temtifolia 31-B-c,  45-1 223,  330 

Pagoda  Tree 42-C 298 

Japanese 11-A,  19-F-b,  45-H-a,  45-K-a     .      .     .  119,  158,  329, 331 

Painted  Tongue 32-A,  32-E,  32-H-a 240,  242,  246 

Palm 35-B-c,  43-J-a 266, 310 

California  Fan      ....  43-B-b 302 

Pampas  Grass 43-1 309 

Pansy                         ....  29-A,  29-1, 31-J,  32-A,  32-E.      .      .      .  204,210,233,240,242 

Tufted             29-A,  29-1,  31-B-a,  31-D,  31-J  45-A-a.  204,  210,  222,  229,  233,  319 

Papaver  (in  variety)       .      .      .  32-A,  32-C,  32-D 240, 241 

nudicaule 31-D 229 

orientate 24-E,  31-B-f,  31-B-g 184,  225 

Paper  Flower                              .  16-C,  43-C-a,  43-J-c 146,  303, 311 

Papinac 43-F-c,  43-J-b 306. 310 

Paritium  tiliaceum    ....  43-F-c 307 

Parkinsonio  aculeata      .      .      .  45-H-a 328 

Parthenocissus  henryana      .      .  45-L .  333 

Partridge  Berry  .  15-C,  24-A-a,  28-B,  29-B,  29-C,  2y-H,  140,   180,   197,  204,  205.  209, 

30-A,  31-C-b 212,228 

Passiflora  cterulea    ....  35-B-a,  45-L 265,  333 

incarnata    .  38-A.  43-C-a 279,  303 


Passion  Flower  418  Perennials 

NAME  GROUP  PAGE 

Passion  Flower 35-B-a.  38-A,  45-L     .  .  265, 279, 333 

Purple 43-C-a 303 

Paulownia  (in  variety)  .      .      .  42-C 298 

tomentosa 19-H,  37-A-b,  45-H-a 159.  276,  328 

Paved  areas,  Plants  for.     .     .  29-F 208 

Pavia 42-B-b 297 

Paw-Paw 20-A 162 

Peach 39         285 

Common 19-E-a 157 

David's  Flowering      .      .      .  24-D 183 

Double  Rose-flowering    .      .  33-C 250 

Double  White-flowering        ,  33-C 250 

Flowering 14-A-a 133 

Pearl  Bush          13-A-c,  14-B,  19-B,  44-G.  45-H-b    .      .  129,  135,  155,  316,  329 

Pea  Shrub 42-B-a 297 

Dahurian 12-E-b 126 

Siberian      .  ...  12-E-b,    14-B,    19-B,    19-F-b,    24-B-b,  126,   135,   155,   158,   181,   186, 

25-A,  41 293 

Peaty  Soils 24-A-b 181 

Pecan 45-H-a 328 

Water 45-H-a 327 

Pelargonium 32-G-b-2 244 

hortorum 32-G-b-l 244 

hortorum  Madame  Salleroi    .  32-G-a-l 243 

fieltatum 35-A-a,  35-A-b 264,  265 

Pentstemon  barbatus  .      .  31-B-g  .  225 

Bearded      ....  31-B-g  .  .     .  225 

Peony 31-A,  31-1,  31-K-b,  33-B,  39,  40-A        .  222,  232,  233,  250,  285,  289 

Best  varieties 33-B 250 

Chinese 31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-F,  37-A-c.     .      .      .  225, 230, 277 

Deep  Pink 33-B 250 

Diseases  of 285 

Dividingof 31-K-a 90,  233 

Fennel-leaved        ....  31-B-c,  45-1 223, 330 

Fertilizing 91 

Light  Pink 33-B 250 

Old-fashioned 31-B-b,  45-1 233,  330 

Old-fashioned  Red     .      .     .  31-B-c 223 

Pale  Pink 33-B 250 

Plantingof 286 

Red 33-B 250 

Transplanting  of 90 

Tree 31-B-b,  31-B-c,  45-1 223,  330 

White 33-B 250 

Yellow 33-B 250 

Pepper  Bush,  Sweet.     .     .      .  13-B-b,  19-D,  19-G-b,  24-A-a,  26-B-c,  131.   156,   158.   180,    191,   193, 

27, 28-A,  37-A-a,  42-A-b,  44-G,  46-C-b.  196,  276,  297,  316,  337 

Mountain 45-F-c 325 

Perennials    for    different    pur- 
poses    31 214 

Bog  gardens,  Perennials  for  .  24-A-a 180 

Colour  and  season      .      .      .  31-B 222 

Autumn — pink  to  crimson.  31-B-k 226 

Autumn — purple,  lavender, 

or  blue 31-B-i 226 

Autumn— white.      .      .      .  31-B-j 226 

Autumn — yellow  to  orange  31-B-l 227 

Spring — pink  to  crimson   .  31-B-c 223 

Spring — purple,    lavender, 

or  blue 31-B-a 222 

Spring— white    ....  31-B-b 222 

Spring — yellow  to  orange  .  31-B-d 223 

Summer — pink  to  crimson.  31-B-g 225 

Summer — purple,  lavender, 

or  blue 31-B-e 224 

Summer— white      .      .      .  31-B-f 224 

Summer — yellow  to  orange  31-B-h 225 

Cut  flowers 31-1 232 

Dividingof 31-K 88,233 

Edge  of  shrub  borders     .      .  31-M 235 

Low-growing     ....  31-M-a 235 

Tal}-growing      ....  31-M-b 235 

Fertilizers  for 91 

For  shade 28-B 197 

For  water's  edge  ....  31-L-c 237 

Fragrant  flowers  ....  37-A-c 276 

Good  blooming  combinations  31-H 231 

Hardy  for  general  use      .      .  31-A 221 

Humming    birds,  Perennials 

for  attracting      .     .     .  31-N 236 

List  of 31 221 

Long  flowering  period      .     .  31-D 228 

Mulching  of , 102 


Perennials 


NAME 

Perennials 
Naturalizing  in  wild  gardens 

Low  types 

Tall  types 

Not  desirable  in  small,  refined, 

formal  gardens    . 
Peonies,  Interplanting  with. 

Protection  of 

Season  for  transplanting. 
Shade  enduring,  Ground  cover 

Dry  locations     .... 

Moist  locations. 

In  woods 

Shady  locations 
Supplying  perpetual  bloom  . 
To     be     transplanted     fre- 
quently     

Divided  each  year  . 

Divided  every  three  years. 

Divided  every  two  years  . 
Treated  as  biennials  . 
Transplanting  of  . 
Water  planting,  Perennials  for 

Deep  water       .... 

Land  at  water  side . 

Shallow  water  .... 

Periploca  graeca 

Periwinkle 


419 

GROUP 


31-C 

31-C-b 

31-C-a 

31-E 
31-G 


29-B  , 
29-A 

28-B  . 

29-C  . 

31-F  , 

31-K 
31-K-c  . 
31-K-b 
31-K-a 
31-J      . 


White 

Perpetual  bloom,  Plants  for 

Persimmon 

Petraea  volubilis  .... 
Petunia  (in  variety). 


hybrida 


Phalaris  arundinacea 
Phaseolus  multiflorus 
Pheasant's  Eye  . 
Phegopteris  hexagonoptera 
Phejlodendron  amurense. 
Philadelphus  (in  variety) 

coronarius  .... 

coronarius  nanus  . 

coronarius  nanus  aureus 

falconeri      .... 

gordonianus     .      .      . 

grandiflorus 

inodorus     .... 

lemoinei      .... 

lewisi 

zeyheri 

Phlox  (in  variety)     . 

Annual       .... 

Creeping    .... 

divaricata    .... 

drummondi  .     . 


Drummond's  . 
Early-flowering 
Early  Garden  . 
Garden . 


glaberrima  suffruticosa 
Miss  Lingard  . 
Mountain  .... 

ovata 

paniculata  .... 


stolonifera 
subulata 


subulata  alba    . 

suffruticosa 
Photinia  arbutifolia  . 

Evergreen  . 

glabra    .... 

serrulata     . 

Japanese    . 
Pkragmitej  communis 
Phyllanlhus  nivosus  . 


31-L 

31-L-a  .... 

31-L-c 

31-L-b 

25-C,  29-E-c,  34-C,  34-E,  45-L  . 

15-C,  28-B,  29-A,  29-B,  29-C,  29-E-b, 

29-F,   29-H,    31-B-a,    33-E-b,    43-1, 

45-A-a,  46-B-b 

29-H 

31-F 

20-A,  45-G,  45-H-a 

43-C-a 

29-1,    32-E,    32-G-b-2,    32-H-a,    32-E, 

35-A-b,  35-A-c,  35-B-a,  35-B-b     . 
29-1,  32-E,  32-G-b-2,  32-H-a,  35-A-b, 

35-A-c,  35-B-a,  35-B-b.      .      .      . 

31-L-c,  32-G-b-l 

32-F-b 

31-B-d,  45-1 

29-D-b 

10-B,  23-A 

19-C,  19-G-b,  41,  42-A-a 

12-E-e,  13-A-c,  19-1,  25-B,  27,  37-A-a  . 

12-B,  15-B 

12-B 

13-A-c 

46-E 

17,  23-B 

28-A 

46-C-a 

46-C-b,  46-E 

37-A-a 

31-A,  39,  45-1 

29-1 

15-C,  29-A,  29-F,  31-B-c,  31-C-b  .  . 
28-B,  31-C-a,  31-C-b,  40-A  .... 
29-1,  32-D,  32-G-a-2,  32-H-a,  35-A-a, 

43-1 

32-D,  32-G-a-2,  32-H-a,  35-A-a,  43-1    . 

31-B-f 

31-D 

31-B-e,    31-B-f,    31-B-g,    31-F,    31-1, 

31-K-a,  31-K-b,  37-A-c,  45-1  .     .     . 

31-D 

31-H 

31-C-b  . 

31-G-b  

31-B-e,  31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-F,  31-H,  31-1, 

31-K-a,  31-K-b,  37-A-c  .... 
15-C,  29-A,  29-F,  31-B-c,  31-C-b  .  . 
15-C,  29-A,  29-B.  29-E-b,  29-F,  29-G, 

31-B-c,  31-C-b,  45-A-a,  46-B-a     .      . 

31-B-b 

31-B-f 

45-H-a 


45-H-a 
46-H-b  , 
45-H-a 
46-H-b  , 
31-L-b  . 
43-E-a  . 


Phyllanthus 
PACE 


227 
228 
227 

229 
230 
102 
286 

204 
203 
197 
205 
230 

233 
233 
233 
233 
233 
47 
234 
234 
234 
234 

187,  207,  261,  333 
140,  198,  204,  205,  207,  208, 
210,  222,  253,  310,  319,  336 

210 

230 

162,  327,  328 

303 

210,  242,  244,  246,  265,  266 

210,  242,  244,  246,  265,  266 


235, 
242 
223, 
206 
117, 
155, 
126, 
124, 
124 
130 
338 
149, 
197 
337 
337, 
276 
222, 
210 
140, 
198, 
210, 


244 
329 

177 

158,  293,  296 

130,  159,  187,  193,  276 

139 


177 

338 
285,  330 

204,  208,  223,  228 

227,  228,  289 

241,  244,  246,  264,  310 


241, 244,  246,  264,  310 

225 

229 

224,  225,  230,  232,  233,  277, 

330 
229 
231 
228 
228 
224,  225  230,  231,  232,  233, 

277 

140,  204,  208,  223,  228 
140,  204,  205,  207,  208,  209, 

223,  228,  319,  336 
223 
225 
328 
328 
340 
328 
340 
234 
305 


Physocarpus  420                                   Pinkster  Flower 

NAME  GROUP                                                  PAGE 

Physocarpus  opulifolius       .     .  11-B,    17,    19-G-b.  20-B,   23-B.   28-A,  120,   149,   158,   163,   177    197 

42-A-a 296 

Physostegia  virginiana    .      .      .  31-B-g,  31-E,  31 -G,  31-1.      .  225,230,231   232 

Ptcea  (in  variety)     ....  12-C,  14-A-a,  30-A,  32-D  125,  133  212  298 

alba 9-A,    9-B,    24-A-a,    25-A,   26-A-b,    27.  Ill,   112,   180,    186,   190,    193, 

44-F 316 

alcocktana 9-A,  9-B HI,  112 

canadensis 44-A-a,  44-A-b,  44-F        .      .  313  316 

engelmanni 9-A,  9-B,  46-H-a Ill,  112  339 

excelsa 9-A,  9-B,  12-A-a,  16-B-a,  23-A,  24-C-a,  112,   124,   145,   177,   182    186 

,       ,  25-A,  44-A-a,  44-F,  46-A-b     .      .      .            313,316,335 

excelsa  clanbrastltana       .      .        9-E 114 

excelsa  columnaris.     ,      .      .  14-A-b,  16-D-b-2  ....  135,  147 

excelsa  compacts   ....        9-E 114 

excelsa  gregoriana        .      .      .  9-E,  16-A,  18-A    .      .  114   138  151 

excelsa  nana 9-E,  18-A 114,  151 

excelsa  pygmaea     ....  9-E        ...  114 

excelsa  pyramidalis     .      .      .  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-2,  44-D    .  135,  145,  147,  314 

excelsa  labulaeformis  .     .      .        9-E 114 

mariana 9-C 

omorika 9-A,  9-B,  16-D-b-2     '.      '.  112,  147 

orienlalis 16-B-a 145 

orientalis  nana      ....  9-E        ...  114 

pungens 9-A,  11-A  .      .      .  112,  119 

pungens  compacta       .      .      .        9-E 114 

pungens  glauca      ....  9-B,  26-A-b,  44-F.  112,  190  316 

rubra 26-A-b 190 

sttchensis 46-H-a  ....  339 

Pieris  (in  variety)    ....  29-H,  40-B       ....  209, 289 

floribunda 15-A,    18-A,    22-C-a,    24-A-b,    33-E-b,  138,   151,   174,   181,  253,   325 

45-F-b,  46-C-a,  46-H-b      .      .  337,340 

japonica 12-B,  45-F-b 124,  325 

mariana 45-F-a 324 

Pimpernel 32-B 241 

Pine  (in  variety)       ....  14-A-a,  39,  42-D  .     .     .  133, 285, 298 

Austrian 9-A,  9-B,  25-A,  26-B-b,  44-A-b,  44-F,  112,  186,  191,  313,  316,  339 

46-H-a 

Bhotan.     ...           .     .  45-D     .  322 

Bull 9-C,  46-H-a 113,339 

Bush  White 9-E 114 

Corean 9-E 114 

Dwarf  Japanese  Red       .     .        9-A,  9-E,  16-B-a 112,  114,  145 

Dwarf  Mountain  ....  9-A,  9-B,  9-E,  11-A,  15-A,  16-B-a,  25-A  112,  114,  119,  139,  145,  186 

Dwarf  Swiss  Stone     .     .     .        9-E 114 

Dwarf  White 9-E 114 

Globe  Scotch 9-E 114 

Jack 9-C,  9-D,  24-B-a,  25-A,  26-A-b       .     .  113,  181,  186,  190 

Japanese  Red 26-B-b 191 

Jeffrey's 9-C 113 

Knot-cone 46-H-a 339 

Long-leaved 9-C 113 

Monterey 46-H-a 339 

Mountain  White  ....        46-H-a 339 

Oregon 46-H-a 339 

Pitch 24-B-a,  25-A,  26-A-b,  30-B  ....  181,  186,  190,  213 

Red 9-A,  9-B,  12-C,  26-A-b,  44-F      ...  112,  113,  125,  190,  316 

Scotch 9-A,  9-B,    11-A,  23-A,   24-B-a,  25-A,  112,   113,   119,   177,   181.   186, 

26-B-b,  44-A-b,  44-F,  46-H-a  .      .      .  191,313.316,339 

Swiss  Mountain    ....        16-B-a,  26-A-b,  28-A 145,  190,  197 

Swiss  Stone 9-A,  9-B,  16-B-a  .......  112,145 

Umbrella 9-A,  9-B,  14-A-a,  16-A,  45-E     ...  112,  113,  133,  145,  323 

White 9-A,  9-B,  9-D,  12-C,  24-B-a,  24-C-a,  112,   113,   125,   181,   182,  313, 

44-A-b,  44-F,  46-E,  46-H-a     .      .     .  316,  338,  339 

^Chinese'     '.'.'.'.'.'.  3Z-A,  38-C-'a    '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.  240,280 

Fananese  29-1.  32-A  .                               ....  210,  240 

Maiden  15-C,  24-E,  29-B,  29-F,  29-G,  31-B-c,  140,   184,  204,  208,  209,  223, 

31-D 229 

Moss  15-C,  29-A,  29-B,  29-E-b,  29-F,  29-G,  140,   204,  205,  207,  208,  209, 

31-B-c,  31-C-b,  45-A-a,  46-B-a     .      .  223,  228,  319,  336 

Mullein  31-B-g,  31-D,  31-J,  31-K-a,  31-N,  45-1.  225,  229,  233,  236,  330 

Scotch  15-C,  29-B,  31-B-b,  31-B-c,  37-A-c.      .  140.204.223,276 

White  '.     '. 31-J 233 

White  Ground      ....        31-B-b 223 

Wild 15-C 140 

Pink  Flowers. 

Perennials 31-B  222 

Shrubs  .  ...        19-E,  43-F-b 156, 306 

Pinkster  Flower  13-B-a,    15-B,    19-A,    19-E-a,    24-B-b,  130,  139,  154,  157,  181,  323 

45-F-a 

Hybrid 37-A-a 276 


Pinus 


421 


Plumeria 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Pinus  (in  variety)    ....        14-A-a,  42-D 133,  298 

attenuata 46-H-a 339 

banksiana 9-C,  9-D,  24-B-a.  25- A,  26-A-b        .      .  113,  181,  186,  190 

cembra  .      .  ....        9-A,  9-B,  16-B-a 112,  145 

cembra  compact  a    ....        9-E 114 

contorts 46-H-a 339 

densiflora 26-B-b 191 

densiflora  umbraculifera  (tan- 

yosho) 9-A,  9-E,  16-B-a 112,114,145 

exctlsa 45-D 322 

jeffreyi 9-C 113 

koraiensis 9-E 114 

montana 16-B-a,  26-A-b,  28-A 145,  190,  197 

montana  mughus   ....        9-A,  9-B,  9-E,  11-A,  15-A,  16-B-a,  25-A  112,  114,  119,  139,  145,  186 

monticola 46-H-a 339 

nigra  austriaca      ....        9-A,  9-B,  25-A,  26-B-b,  44-A-b,  44-F,  112,  186,  191,  313,  316,  339 

46-H-a 

pelustris 9-C 113 

ponderosa 9-C,  46-H-a 113,  139 

radiata 46-H-a 339 

resinosa 9-A,  9-B,  12-C,  26-A-b,  44-F      ...  112,  113,  125,  190,  316 

rigid a 24-B-a,  25-A,  26-A-b,  30-B   ....  181,  186,  190,  213 

strobus 9-A,  |9-B,  9-D,  12-C.    24-B-a,  24-C-a,  112,   113,  125.   181,   182,  313. 

44-A-b,  44-F,  46-E,  46-H-a  ....  316,  338,  339 

strobus  brevifolia    ....        9-E 114 

strobus  umbraculifera        .      .        9-E        114 

sylvestris 9-A,   9-B,    11-A,   23-A,   24-B-a,   25-A,  112,   113,   119,   177.   181,  186, 

26-B-b.  44-A-b,  44-F,  46-H-a  .      .      .  191,  313,  316,  339 

sylvestris  pumila    ....        9-E 114 

Pipsissewa 28-B,  33-E-b 197,  252 

Piquerio  trinerva 32-G-b-l 244 

Pitcher  Plant 24-A-a,  31-L-c 180,  235 

Pithecoctenium  cynanchoides      .        43-C-a 303 

Pithecolobium  duke  ....        43-A.  43-J-a 301.  310 

Pitlosporum  tobira    ....        43-E-a,  43-F-a.  43-J-b,  45-B-a,  45-F-d,  305,  306,  310,  320,  326,  332 

45-K-b 

undulatum 43-E-a 305 

Plane,  American       ....        10-C,  26-B-a 117.  191 

Oriental 10-B,  11-A.  20-A,  21,  22-A,  23-A,  24-D,  117.   119,   162.    170.   173,   177 

46-D 183,  337 

Plant  diseases 39 282 

Books  on 346 

Plantain,  Rattle-snake  .      .      .        29-F,  29-H 208,  209 

Planting  (See  Transplanting) 29 

Planting  and  seeding  seasons 8 

Deciduous  trees,  shrubs,  and 

vines 9,  illus.  14 

Evergreens,  Planting  seasons 

for - — .  12,  illus.  14 

General  considerations 8 

Graphic  chart  showing  plant- 
ing and  seeding  dates 14 

Lawns 13 

Perennials,  Planting  seasons 

for 12 

Tabulation  of  planting  and 

seeding  dates 15 

Deciduous  plants 15 

Evergreens 17 

Lawns 16 

Planting,  chart  of  seasons   .      . 14 

Beds,  General  preparation  of 30 

Spacing  of  plants 36 

Plantings,  Screen      ....        23 176 

Plants  for  use  in  congested  city 

districts 11 118 

Shrubs 11-B 120 

Trees 11-A 119 

Pleached  Alices 16-D-a 146,  illus.  158, 175 

Platanus  occidentalis      .      .      .        10-C,  26-B-a 117,  191 

orientalis 10-B,  11-A,  20-A,  21,  22-A,  23-A,  24-D,  117,   119,   162,   170,   173,   177, 

46-D 183,  337 

Platycodon  grandiflorum      .     .        24-E,  31-B-e,  45-1 184, 224, 230 

Plum 19-G-a,  20-D-a 158,  165 

Beach 24-B-b,  25-B.  26-A-c 181.  187,  190,  illus.  254 

Flowering 13-A-b.  14-B.  19-A,  33-C,  41,  45-F-a,  129,  135.  154,  250,  293,  324 

45-F-c,  46-C-a 

Japanese 19-E-a  157 

Natal 43-D,  43-E-a,  43-J-b 304,305,310 

Purple 45-H-a 328 

Purple-leaved 14-A-a 134 

Wild 30-A,  45-B-b 212, 321 

Plumeria 43-J-a 310 


Plumbago 


422 


Privet 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Plumbago  capensis    ....  43-F-e 307 

capensis  alba          ....  43-F-a 306 

Plume  Grass 31-E,  31-L-c,  38-C-a 230,  235,  280 

Poa  annua 38-C-a 281 

Pocket  Planting       ....  36 

Podachaenium  eminens  .      .      .  43-F-c 307 

Podophyllum  peltalum    .      .      .  28-B 198 

Poinsettia 43-F-d 307 

Poison  Hemlock       ....  38-A 279 

Poison  Ivy 38-B 280 

Poison  Oak 38-B 280 

Poison  Sumac 38-B 280 

Poisonous  plants 38         278 

Hay  fever 38-C 280 

Internally  poisonous  .      .      .  38-A 279 

Skin  irritants 38-B 280 

Polemonium  caeruleunt  .      .      .  31-C-a,  45-1 227,  330 

reptans 29-F,  31-B-a,  31-C-b,  45-1    ....  208,  222,  228,  330 

Polygala  chamaebuxus    .      .      .  33-E-b 253 

paucifolia 29-C 205 

Polygonum  baldschuanicum       .  34-A,  45-L,  46-G 260,  333,  338 

persicaria 30-B 213 

sachalinense 31-E 230 

Polygonatum  multiflorwn     .      .  29-C,  31-C-b 205,  228 

Polypodium  vulgare  ....  28-B,  29-D-a 198,  206 

Polypody 28-B,  29-D-a 198,  206 

Pomegranate 43- D,  43-E-b,  43-F-b 304,  305,  306 

Pond-lily,  Native     ....  31-L-a 234 

Poplar 12-C.  23- A,  30- A,  39,  40-B   ....  125,  177,  212,  285,  289 

Balsam 25-A,  26-A-a 186,  189 

Belle's 14-A-a,    14-A-b,    16-A,    26-B-a,   44-D,  133,135,145,191,314,328 

45-H-a, 

Carolina 10-C,  25-A,  44-C-a,  44-E-b  ....  117,  186,  314,  315 

Lombardy 14-A-a.  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l,  26-A-a,  133,  135,  145,  147,  189,  314 

44-D 

White 26-A-a 189 

Poppy 32-C,  32-D 241 

Annual 32-A 240 

California 32-A,  32-C,  32-H-a     ......  240,  241,  246 

Iceland 31-D 229 

Mexican 32-A,  32-H-a 240,  246 

Oriental 24-E,  31-B-f,  31-B-g 184,  225 

Plume 31-B-f,  31-E,  31-K-c,  31-M-b     .     .     .  224,  229,  233,  235 

Prickly 45-1 330 

Shirley 32-A 240 

Yellow  Horned     ....  31-J 233 

Populus  (in  variety)      .     .     .  12-C,  23-A,  30-A,  40-B 125,  177,  212,  289 

alba 26-A-a 189 

alba  pyramidalis   ....  14-A-a,    14-A-b,    16-A,    26-B-a,   44-D,  133,  135,  145,  191,  314,  328 

45-H-a 

balsamifero 25-A,  26-A-a 186,  189 

delloides 38-C-a,  45-H-a 281, 328 

deltoides  monilifera     .      .      .  26-A-a,  45-H-a .  189,  328 

eugenie 10-C,  25-A,  44-C-a,  44-E-b  ....  117,  186,  314,  315 

fremonti 24-D 183 

nigra  italica     .     .     .     .     .  14-A-a,  14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-l,  26-A-a,  133,  135,  145,  147,  189,  314 

44-D 

tremuloides 21 170 

Parana  paniculata    ....  43-C-a 303 

Porcupine  Grass       ....  38-B 280 

Portulaca  grandiflora      .      .      .  29-1,  32-B,  32-G-3-2 210,  241,  244 

oleracea 30-A 212 

Potentilla  fruticosa    ....  19-D,  19-F-b,  29-A 156,  158,  204 

tridentata 33-E-b 253 

Prickly-ash 27,  28-A,  29-E-a 193,  197,  207 

Primrose 31-C-b,  31-1,  40-A,  45-1 228,  232,  289,  330 

Evening 31-C-b,  37-A-c,  45-1 228,  277,  330 

Himalayan 31-B-a 222 

Japanese 31-B-c,  31-L-c 223,  235 

Missouri 31-B-h 226 

Missouri  Evening.      .      .      .  24-E 184 

Young's  Evening  ....  31-D 229 

Primula  (in  variety)       .      .      .  31-C-b,  31-1,  40-A,  45-1 228,  232,  289,  330 

denticulala 31-B-a 222 

Hairy 38-B 280 

japonica 31-B-c,  31-L-c 223,  235 

obconica 38-B 280 

veris 15-C,  29-F,  31-B-d 140,  208,  224 

Privet 11-B,    12-D,    19-G-b,    20-B,    27.    39,  120,   125,   158,   163,   193,  285, 

42-A-a,  44-G.  45-E 296,  317,  323,  illus.  20,  159 

Amoor  River 13-A-b,  22-C-b-l,  23-B.  43-E-b,  43-H.  129,   175,   177,  305,  308,  320, 

45-B-a,  46-F 338 

California 22-C-b-l,  45-B-b,  46-A-a      ....  175,  321,  335 


Privet 


4*3 


Pterocarya 


NAME  GROUP  PAGE 

Privet,  Chinese 45-B-a,  45-K-b      .  320, 332 

European 16-B-b,  20-C.  26-A-c,  46-A-a      .      .     .  145,  163,  190.  335 

Evergreen 22-C-b-l,  45-B-a,  46-H-b      ....  175,  320,  340 

Half-evergreen      ....        22-C-b-l     ....  175 

Japanese 16-B-b,  19-C,  20-C,  45-B-a,  46-A-a.     .  145,  155,  163,  320,  335 

Late-blooming       ....        45-B-a,  45-K-b      .  320,  332 

Nepaul 43-F-a,  45-B-a,  45-K-b    .                        .  306,  320, 332 

Regel's 12-B,  13-A-b,  26-A-c 124,  129,  190 

Round-leaved        ....        45-F-d 326 

Shining-leaved       ....        45-B-a,  45-K-b  320,  332 

Variegated  Nepaul     .      .      .        43-E-b,  43-H 305,  308 

Propagation  9f  plants,  Books  on 346 

Pruning,  Articles  on 347 

Books  on 346 

Pruning  of  Ornamental  Plants 18 

Evergreens,  Pruning  of 26 

Hedges,  Pruning  of 22,  illus.  20,  24 

Precautions  to  observe 18 

Reasons  for  pruning 18 

Results  from  pruning       .               19 

Rhododendrons,  Pruning  of 26 

Roses,  Pruning  of 27,  illus.  24 

Shrubs,  Pruning  of 23,  illus.  24 

Tools  and  wound  dressings 19 

Topiary  effects,  Pruning  for 23 

Trees,  Pruning  of 19 

Root  pruning 21 

Top  pruning      .     . 19,  illus.  24 

Vines,  Pruning  of 27 

Pruning,  Lists  for 296 

Evergreens     that     can     be 

pruned  at  any  time  .     .        42-E 298 

Evergreens    that    must    be 

pruned  in  May  or  June        42-D 298 

Shrubs     needing     complete 

pruning 42-A 296 

Late     summer    and     fail 

flowering 42-A-b 297 

Spring  and  early  summer 

flowering 42-A-a 296 

Shrubs  needing  removal  of 

old  wood  only     .     .     .        42-B 297 

Summer  pruning    .     .     .        42-B-a 297 

Winter  pruning.     .     .     .        42-B-b 297 

Trees  which  require  little  or 

no  pruning     ....        42-C 298 

Prunus(in  variety)   ....        19-A,  19-G-a,  20-D-a,  30-A,  44-G    .     .  154,  158,  165.  212,  317, 

americana 45-B-b 321 

avium  plena 17 149 

besseyi 19-E-a 157 

caroliniana 43-E-a,  45-B-a,  45-H-b,  45-K-b.      .      .  305,  320, 329. 332 

cerasifera  pissardi.      .      .      .        45-H-a 328 

cerasus 33-C.  41,  42-B-a 250,  293,  297 

davidiana   ......        24-D 183 

fruticosa  pendula  ....        14-A-a 133 

ilicifolia 45-H-b 329 

japonica 13-A-b,  14-B,  19-E-a 129,  135,  157 

laurocerasus 45-B-a,;45-H-b,  45-K-b,  46-A-b,  46-H-b,  321,329,332,335,340, 

laurocerasus  schipkaensis .      .        45-F-d 326 

lusitanica 46-A-b,  46-H-b 335,340 

lyoni 45-H-b 329 

maritima 24-B-b,  25-B,  26-A-c 181,  187,  190 

padus  commutata  ....        14-A-a,  24-B-a 133,  181 

persica 14-A-a 133 

persica  alba  plena.      .      .      .        33-C 250 

persica  rosea  plena      .      .      .        33-C 250 

persica  vulgaris      ....        19-E-a 157 

pissardi 14-A-a 134 

pumila 26-B-a 191 

serotina 26-A-a,  38-A 189,  279 

serrulata 33-C 250 

sieboldi 33-C 250 

spinosa 12-A-b 124 

subhirtella  (in  variety)      .      .        19-A-a 157 

subhirlella  pendula      .      .      .        33-C 250 

tomentosa 19-E-a 157 

triloba   .                                           13-A-b,  14-B,  19-A,  33-C,  41,  45-F-a,  129,   135.   154,   250.  293,  324, 

45-F-c,  46-C-a 326,337 

fseudotsuga  douglasi      .      .      .        9- A,  9-B,  9-D,  44-F,  46-H-a.      .      .      .  112,113,316,339 

douglasi  globpsa     ....         9-E 114 

Psidium  catileianum       .      .      .        43-E-a 305 

Ptelea  trijoliata 17,  25-A,  26-B-a 149,  186.  191 

Pterocarya  fraxinifolia   .      .      .        45-H-a 328 


Pueraria 


424 


Reseda 


NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Pueraria  kirsula        .... 

45-L 

332 

tkunbergiana    

29-E-c,  34-C.  34-E.  46-G      .... 

207,  261,  339 

Punica  granatum       .... 

43-D,  43-E-b,  43-F-b.      .     . 

304,305.306 

Purslane  

30-A      

212 

Pyracaniha     

42-B-a  

297 

coccinea       

20-B.  20-C,  33-E-b,  46-A-b  . 

163,  253,  335 

coccinea  lalandi     .... 

12-A-a,  12-B,  16-C,  45-B-a,  45-G    .      . 

124,  146.  321,  327 

coccinea  pauci  flora 

33-E-b  

253 

Pyretkrum  coccineum 

45-1  

330 

roseum  

31-B-g,  31-1     

225,  232 

PyrosteRto  venusta     .... 
Pyrtis  (in  variety)    .... 

43-C-a,  43-C-b,  45-L  
13-B-c,  14-A-a,  19-B,  30-A,  40-C-b.      . 

303,332 
131,  134.  155,  212,  291 

angustifolia      

19-E-a,  37-A-a      

157,  276 

atrosanguinea  

33-C      

250 

baccala        

20-A,  24-B-a,  25-A,  33-C,  37-A-a    .      . 

162,  181,  186,  250.  276 

coronarta    

19-E-a,  37-A-a,  45-H-a    

157,  276,  328 

floribunda  

19-E-a,  37-A-a      

157,  276 

halliana  parkmani 

19-E-a,  33-C,  41    

157,  250.  293 

toensts  

44-E-b  

315 

ioensis  becUeli       .... 

19-E-b,  33-C,  37-A-a       

157,  250,  276 

malus  niedzteettkyana 

33-C      

251 

pulcherrima  arnoldiana  . 

33-C      

251 

pulcherrima  sckeidecktri  . 

33-C     

251 

sar  genii  

33-C     

251 

sieboldi        

33-C      

251 

spectabilis  ritersi  .... 

33-C,  37-A-a    

251,  276 

tumi      

33-C      

251 

Pyxidonthtn  tarbulato  .      .      . 

15-A,  29-F.  29-H.  33-E-b      .... 

139,  208,  209,  253 

Quamoclit  coccinea  hederifolia. 

32-F-b  .                            

242 

pinnata  

32-F-b.  34-A    

242,260 

Queen's  Wreath  

43-C-a  

303 

Quercus  (in  variety)  .... 

14-A-a,  30-B    

134,  213 

45-H-a,  45-K-a     

328,331 

alba       

10-A,  22-C-a,  24-A-a       

116,  174,  180 

bicolor    

24-A-a  

180 

10-A.  22-C-a,  44-E-a,  45-C,  46-D,  46-F 

116,  174.  315,  321,  337,  338 

falcata  

45-H-a  

328 

imbricaria  

45-C      

321 

laurifolia     

16-D-a,  43-B-a,  45-C,  45-H-a.  45-K-a  . 

147,  301.  321.  328.  331 

lobata     

24-D     

183 

macrocarpa       

25-A     

186 

muhlenbergi      

45-H-a  

328 

ntgra     

38-C-a.  43-A,  43-B-a,  45-C,  45-H-a      . 

281.  301,  321,  328,  331 

pagodaefolia      
palustrts     

45-H-a  
10-B,  11-A,  24-A-a,  45-C      .... 

328 
117,  119,  180,  322. 

phellos  

43-B-a.  45-C,  45-K-a.      .      .      .      .     . 

301,  322,  331 

robur  fastigiata      .... 

16-A,  16-D-b-l      

145,  147 

robur  pedunculata 

45-E     

323 

robur  pyramidalis 

14-A-b  

135 

rubra     

10-A,    22-B,    24-B-a,    26-A-a,    40-C-b, 

116.   173,   181,  189,  291,  314. 

44-C-b,  44-E-a,  45-C    

315,  322 

ttlutina  

10-A,  22-B  

116,  173 

tirginiana  

43-B-a,  45-C    

301,322 

Quince      

39          

285 

Chinese  Flowering 

45-F-c  

325 

Japanese    

12-A-b,  14-B,  19-A,  19-1,  22-C-b-l.  41, 

124,   135,   154,   159.   174,  293, 

43-F-b  46-A-a,  46-E    

306,  335,  337 

Ragged  Robin     

15-C,  31-B-g    . 

140,225 

Ranunculus    

30-A      

212 

acris  flare  plena     .... 
Raphiolepis  indica    .... 

15-D     
43-E-a,  45-D-d      ....... 

140 
305,326 

Rapid-growing  trees  and  shrubs 
Raspberry,  Flowering    . 
Rocky  Mountain  Flowering  . 

23-A.23-B       
26-B-c,  28-A,  29-E-a,  37-A-c,  44-B-a    . 
19-C.  29-E-a,  37-A-a       

176,  177 
191,  197.  207,  276.  314 
156,  207,  276 

Thorn-leaved  

29-E-a  

207 

Reed,  Common  

31-L-b  

234 

Giant    

31-E      

229 

Red-bud  

11-A,    13-A-c,    14-A-a,    19-A,    19-E-a. 

119,   129.   133.   154,   157,  173, 

22-A,  39,  40-C-b,  41,  42-A-a,  43-B-a, 

285,  291.  293,  296,  301,  316, 

44-G       

Red  flowers 

Perennials  

31-B      

222 

Shrubs  

19-E,  43-F-d    

156,307 

Red-hot  Poker  Plant     .      .      . 

31-B-k,  31-B-l,  31-D.  31-G.  31-1,  45-1. 

226,  227,  229,  231,  232.  330 

Refine!  lawn  plantings 

13-A      

128 

Reseda  odorata     

29-1.  32-A,  32-B,  32-D    

210.  240.  241 

Rhamnus 


NAME 

Rhamnus  (in  variety)    .     . 

caroliniana 

cathartica 

frangula  (variety  latifolia) 
Rheum  officinali  .... 
Rhexia  irrginica  .... 
Rhododendron  (in  variety)  . 


425 

GROUP 

ll-B.  20-D-b  . 
12-C,  27,  28-A 

12-A-b.  12-D,  12-E-b,  12-E-d,  16-D-a. 
24-B-b.  25-B.  40-C-b,  42-A-a,  44-A-a 
12-A-b  .... 
31-L-c  . 
24-A-a 


arborescent 
arbuti folium 
azaleoides    .... 
calendulaceum . 
campanula  turn . 
canadense   .... 
canescens    .... 
carolinianum    . 
catawbiense 
catawbiense  album . 
catawbiense  hybridum. 

Dwarf 

Early-flowering     . 
ferrugineum 
hirsutum     .... 

Hybrid 

japonicum  .... 
fcaempferi  .... 
ledifolium  .... 
maximum 

morteri 

myrtifolium      .      .      . 
Myrtle-leaved 
nudiflorum 
obtusum  amoenum. 
ponticum    .... 
punctatum  .... 
Rusty-leaved  .     .     . 


13-B-b,  17,  19-G-b.  24-A-b,  27.  28-A, 
33-E-a,  39,  40-B.  42-B-a,  44-G  . 

33-E-a    . 
33-E-a,  45-F-d      .      .      . 

33-E-a,  37-A-a 

33-E-a  . 
33-E-a  .      . 
33-E-a  . 

33-E-a 

15-A,  33-E-a    .      . 

33-E-a  .     .     . 

33-E-a  .     .     . 

19-C,  45-F-d,  46-H-b.      .     .     . 

15-A,  45-F-d    .     . 

45-F-b 

15-A,  33-E-a 

33-E-a 


smtrnovt 

vaseyi  

viscosum 

Rhododendrons,  Books  on  . 

Directions  for  planting  of 

Ground  cover  for 

Hybrids  and  Species  .     . 

Maintenance  of    ... 

Select  list  of    .... 
Rhodora 

canadensis 

Rhodomyrtus  tomentosus 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides     . 

Rhubarb,  Medicinal      .      . 
Rhus  (in  variety) 

canadensis  .  ... 


19-C,  45-F-d,  46-H-b 
33-E-a  . 
33-E-a  .     .     . 
33-E-a  .... 
33-E-a  .... 

33-E-a 

33-E-a,  45-F-b      .      . 
45-F-b  . 
33-E-a  .      .      . 
33-E-a  .... 
45-F-d  .     . 

45-F-b 

15-A 

33-E-a  .      .     . 

33-E-a 

33-E-a  . 


29-H 
33-E-a 


copallina 
cotinus  . 
glabra  . 


radicans 
toxicodendron 
typhina . 


verntx    . 
Ribbon-grass. 
Ribes  (in  variety) 

alpinum 

americanum 

aureum 


gordonianum    . 

oxycanthoides  . 
Rice  Paper  Plant      . 
River  Bank  Plantings 
Robinia  (in  variety) . 

hispida 

pseudacacia 


pseudacacia  bessoniana 
pseudacacia  pyramidalis 


33-E 

13-B-a,  15-B,  19-E-a,  29-H  .... 
13-B-a,  15-B,  19-E-a,  29-H.        .     .     . 

43-D,  43-F-b 

13-A-b.   19-B,    19-G-b,    20-B,    20-C, 

26-B-c,  27,  42-A-a 

31-L-c 

17, 20-D-b       .... 

13-A-b,  13-B-b,    22-B,   24-B-b,   25-B, 

29-E-a,  37-B-a,  40-B 

13-A-b,  26-B-c,  29-E-a 

14-B,  19-C,  45-H-b    .... 
20-B,  20-C,     25-B,     26-A-c,     29-E-a, 

46-C-b,  46-F 

38-B 

38-B 

20-B,  20-C,  22-A.  25-B,  26-A-c,  29-E-a, 

38-C-b,  44-C-a 

38-B 

31-L-c,  32-G-b-l 

17 

44-A-a 

25-B 

13-A-b,  19-B,  19-F-a,  22-B,  37-A-a,  41, 

44-B-a 

37-A-a 

44-A-a,  44-B-a 

43-F-a 

25 

42-C 

14-B,  26-B-c,  42-A-a,  45-F-a      .      .      . 
10-C,    11-A,   17,   19-C,   19-G-b,   23-A, 

24-B-a,  24-D,  25-A,  2-B-a,  37-A-b, 

42-B-b 

46-D 

14-A-b 


Robinia 


PACE 

120,  166 

125.  193,  197 

124,   125,   126.   147,   181.   187, 

291,  296.  313 

124 

235 

180 

131,   149.   159.   181,   193.   197, 
252,285,289,297. 317,illu8.255, 
252 

252,  326 
252,  276 
252 

252 

252 
252 

139,  252 
252 
252 

155,  326,  340 
139,  326 
325 

139,252 
252 

155,  326,  340 
252 
252 
252 
252 
252 

252.325 
325 
252 
252 
326 
325 
139 
252 
252 
252 
343 
49 
209 
252 
26,82 
252 

130,  139.  157.  209 
130,  139.  157,  209 
304,306 
129,   155.    159,   163,   191,   193, 

296 
235 

149,  166 
129,   131,   173,   181,   187,   207 

277,290 
129,  191,  207 
135,  155,  329 
163,  187,  190,  207,  337,  338 

280 
280 
163,  173,  187,  190,  207.  281, 

314 
280 

235,244 
149 
313 
187 
129,  155,  158,  173,  276,  293, 

313 
276 
313 
306 
186 
298 

135.  191,  296,  324 
117,  119,  149,  155,  159.  177. 

181.  183,  186,  191,  276,  297 

337 
135 


Rock  Cress 


NAME 

Rock  Cress 

Alpine 

Dwarf  Alpine 

Grecian  Purple     . 

Purple 

Rock  gardens,  Japanese  gar- 
dens, and  wall  gardens  . 

Books  on 

Deciduous  trees  and  shrubs. 

Everereens 

Perennials  for 

Rock  Purslane 

Rock  Rose 

Laurel-leaved 

Root  pruning  as  aid  to  trans- 
planting   

Rosa  (in  variety)      .... 


426 


Rose 


GROUP 

24-E,  29-F,  31-B-b,  27-A-c,  45-J 
29-A.  29-F,  31-B-b     .      .      . 

15-C 

31-B-a 

29-F,  33-E-b    . 


15 


alba . 
arkansana 

blanda   . 


Carolina 

cinnamomea      .... 
foetida,  variety  harisoni  . 

hugonis 

laetigato 

lucida 

lucida  alba        .... 

multiflora 

nitida 

polyantha  (in  variety) 

rubiginosa 

rubiginosa  hybrida 

Tubrifolia 

rugosa   


setigera 

spinosissimo 

spinosissima  altaica    . 

wichuraiana 

Rosmarinus  officinalis    . 
Rosemary 
Wild     .      . 

Roses 

Best  hybrid  tea  roses. 

Books  on 

Climbing  roses,  Lists  of  best . 
Ground  covers  for  ... 
Hardiest  as  tested  in  Central 

Ontario  and  Maine  . 
Crimson  and  red    . 

Moss 

Pink 

White 

Yellow 

Rose  (in  variety)      .... 


Rose  Acacia  . 
Rose  Apple    . 
Rose  Bay       .      . 
Rose  Box       .      . 

Franchet's       . 

Himalayan 

Silver-leaved    . 
Rose,  Arkansas  . 

Carolina     . 

Cherokee    . 

Climbing    . 

Cinnamon  . 

Father  Hugo's 

Fairy    .      . 

Glossy  .      .      . 

Hanson's  Yellow 

Japanese    .     . 


15-B 

15-A 

15-C 

24-E 

15-C,    28-B,    29-B,    31-B-d,    31-K-a, 

33-E-b,  45-1 .... 
45-F-c   . 


12-E-d,  34-A,  34-D.  37-A-a,  43-C-a, 
45-G 

19-G-b 

44-B-a 

12-B,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b,  21,  26-B-c, 
46-C-b  . 

18-B,  20-D-b,  26-B-c 

19-B 

19-F-b,  31-H   . 

19-F-b  .     .      . 

43-C-a 

20-D-b,  21,  26-A-c,  46-C-b   .     . 

19-G-b,  21 

19-G-b,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b,  26-B-c      . 

13-B-a,  20-D-b,  26-B-c    .... 

12-B      . 

20-B,  20-D-b,  37-B-a 

37-B-a 

20-B,  20-D-b  .... 

12-A-b,  12-E-d,  17,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b, 
24-B-b,  25-B,  26-A-c,  40-B.  43-E-b, 
44-A-a,  45-B-b,  45-F-a,  46-A-a  .  . 

18-B,  20-D-b,  26-A-c,  29-E-a,  43-C-a   . 

13-A-a,  19-G-b,  20-D-b,  26-B-c       .      . 

18-B,  29-E-a 

18-B,  20-D-b,  29-E-c 

37-B-b,  45-F-a 

37-B-b,  45-F-a 

18-A,  33-E-b 

33-D 

33-D-c  . 


33-D-a 
29-1. 


Japanese  Climbing 
Meadow     . 

Memorial  . 


33-D-b 

33-D-b-l 

33-D-b-5 

33-B-b-2 

33-D-b-3 

33-D-b-4 

13-B-b,  19-C.  19-E-b,  34-D,  37-A-a,  39, 

43-C-a,  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  43-F-c,  43-F-d . 
14-B,  26-B-c,  42-A-a,  45-F-a  .  .  . 

43-D 

43-E-a,  43-F-a 

43-D.  43-F-a,  43-F-b,  45-G  .... 

45-G,  46-C-a,  46-H-b 

45-F-d,  45-G,  46-C-a 

43-D,  43-F-a 

44-B-a 

18-B,  20-D-b,  26-B-c 

43-C-a 

34-A,  34-D 

19-B 

19-F-b 

12-B 

20-D-b,  21.  26-A-c,  46-C-b   .... 

19-F-b,  31-H 

12-A-b,  12-E-d.  17,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b, 

24-B-b,  25-B,  26-A-c,  40-B.  43-E-b, 

44-A-a,  45-B-b,  45-F-a,  46-A-a  .  . 
19-G-b,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b,  26-B-c  . 
12-B,  20-B,  20-C,  20-D-b,  21,  26-B-c, 

46-C-b 

18-B,  20-D-b,  29-E-c 


PACE 

184,  208,  222,  276,  331 

203,  208,  223 

139 

222 

208,  252 

136,  illus.  126, 127,  142, 143 

344 

139 

138 

139 

184 

140,   197,   204,  223,  233,  253, 

330 
325 

41,  illus.  34 

126,  260,  261,  276,  303,  327 

159 
314 
124,  163,  164,  166,  170,  191, 

337 

151,  166,  191 
155 

158,231 
158 
303 

166,  170,  190,  337 
159,  170 
159.  163,  164,  166,  191 

130,  166,  191 
124 

163,  166.  277 

277 

163,  166 

124,   126,   149,   163,   164,   166, 

181,  187,  190,  290,  305,  313, 

321,  324,  335 
151,  166,  190,  207,  303 
129,  159,  166,  191 
151,  207 
151,  166,  207 
277.  324 
277,  324 
151,  252 
251 
251 
346 
251 
210 

251 
251 
251 
251 
251 
251 

131,  156,   157,  261,  276,  285, 
303,  306,  307 

135,  191,  296,  324 

304 

305,307 

304,  306,  327, 

327,  336,  340 

326,  327,  336 

304,306 

314 

151,  166,  191 

303 

260,  261 

155 

158 

124 

166,  170,  190,  337 

158,  231 

124,  126,  149,  163,  164,  166, 
181,  187,  190.  290.  305,  313, 
321,  324,  335 

159,  163,  164,  166,  191 

124,   163,   164,   166,   170,   191, 

337 
151,  166,  207 


Rose  427                                           Saponaria 

NAME  GROUP                                                PACK 

Rose,  Native 12-E-d,  45-G   .  126.  327 

Prairie 18-B.  20-D-b,  26-A-c,  29-E-a,  43-C-a   .        151,  166,  190.  207,  303 

Protection  of  roses 104 

Pruning  of  roses 27 

Red-leaved 20-B,  20-D-b .        163,  166 

Scotch 13-A-a.  18-B,  19-G-b,  20-D-b,  26-B-c,  129,  151,  159,  166.  191,  207 

29-E-a 

Shining-leaved      ....        13-B-a,  20-D-b,  26-B-c 130,  166,  191 

Tausendschoen     ....        33-D-a  . 251 

White-flowered     ....        19-G-b 159 

White-flowered  Glossy    .      .        19-G-b,  21 159,  170 

Rose  gardens,  Fertilizer  for 98 

Rose  of  Sharon 11-B,    12-D,   14-B,   16-A,    19-D,    19-1,  120,   125,   135,   144,  156,   159, 

26-B-c,  40-B,  40-C-a,  42-A-b,  44-G,  191,  289,  291,  297,  316,  321, 

45-B-b,  45-E 323 

Blue 19-H     .      .  159 

Royal  Poinciana 43-B-b 302 

Rubber  Tree 43-B-b 302 

Rubber,  Wild 43-J-a 310 

Rubus  (in  variety)    ....        20-D-a,  30-A 166,  212 

crataegifolius 29-E-a 207 

deliciosus 19-C,  29-E-a,  37-A-a 156,  207,  276 

dumetorum 29-E-a 207 

odorotus 26-B-c,  28-A,  29-E-a,  37-A-a.  44-B-a    .  191,  197,  207,  276,  314 

Rudbeckia  (in  variety)   .      .      .        31-B-h,  31-1,  31-K-a 226,  232,  233 

laciniata 31-E 230 

maxima 31-E,  31-F 230 

Rumex  acetosella       ....        30-B .  213 

Rush,  Flowering       ....        31-L-b 234 

Russelia  juncea 43-1 310 

Rynchospora  alba      ....        24-A-a 180 

Sabal  palmetto     .  43-B-b  .  302 

Sage 45-1 330 

Mammoth.      .....        37-B-b 277 

Meadow 24-E 184 

Scarlet 32-E,  32-G-b-2,  35-B-b 242,  244,  266 

Wormwood 38-C-a 280 

Sagittaria  montevidensis .      .      .        31-L-b 234 

Salal 46-B-b.  46-E 336,  337 

Salix  (in  variety)     ....  10-C,  11-A,  12-C,  23-A,  24-A-a,  30-A,  117,   119,   125,   177,   180,  212, 

44-A-b 313 

alba 21,  26-A-a 170,  189 

babylonica 17 149 

blanda 14-A-a 134 

caprea 19-A,  19-F-a.  41 154,  158.  293 

discolor 19-F-a 158 

incana 25-B 187 

lucida 26-A-a 189 

nigra 38-C-b 281 

pentandra 16-D-a.  26-B-a 147,  191 

tristis 24-B-b 181 

vitellina 25-A 186 

vitellina  aurea        ....        21,  26-B-a 170,  191 

vitellina  briUensis        .      .      .        14-A-a,  21 134,  170 

Salpiglossis  sinuata  ....        32-A,  32-E,  32-H-a 240,  242,  246 

Salt  Tree 24-D,  45-F-c 183,  326 

Salvia  (in  variety)    ....        15-1 330 

azurea    : 24-E 184 

azurea  grandiflora       .      .      .        31-B-i 226 

Blue 24-E,  31-B-i 184, 226 

greggi 45-F-a 324 

greggi  alba 45-F-a 324 

Mexican 45-F-a 324 

officinalis 37-B-b 277 

pratensis 24-E 184 

splendent 32-E,  32-G-b-2,  35-B-b 242,  244,  266 

White  Mexican     ....        45-F-a 324 

Sambucus  (in  variety)    .      .      .        20-D-a,  30-A 166, 212 

canadensis 13-B-c,  17,  19-C,  19-G-b,  20-B,  23-B,  131,   149,   156,   159,   163,   177. 

26-A-c,  42-A-a,  46-E 190,  297,  338 

canadensis  aurea   ....        14-B 135 

racemosa 13-B-c,  19-B,  19-G-b,  20-B  ....  131,  155,  159.  163 

Sandwort 15-C,  24-E 139,  184 

Tufted 29-B 204 

Sandy  soils,  Plants  for  .     .      .        24-B 181 

Sanguinaria  canadensis        .      .  28-B,  29-C,  31-B-b,  31-C-b,  40-A    .      .  198,  205,  223,  228,  289 

Sanguisorba  minor    ....        37-B-b 277 

Santolina  chamaecyparissus       .  24-E.  29-B,  32-G-b-l,  37-B-b     .      .      .  184,  205,  244,  277 

Sapium  sebiferum     ....        45-H-a 329 

Saponaria  ocymoides      .     .     .  15-C,  29-A,  31-B-c,  31-C-b  ....  140,  204,  223,  228 


Sarracenia 


428 


Sempervivum 


NAME 

Sarracenia  drummondi  . 

purpurea 

Sassafras,  Common  .... 

officinale 

Savin,  Dwarf 

Tamarisk-leaved  .... 
Saxifrage  (in  variety)    .    '  . 

cordifolia 

sarmentosq 

virginiensis 

Saxifrage 

Early-blooming     .... 
Scabiosa  atropurpurea    . 

caucasica 

Giant 

Kraminifolia 

Grass-leaved 

syltatica 

Woodland 

Scarlet  Bush 

Scented  Flowers       .... 
Schizanihus  pinnatus 
Schizophragma  hydrangeoides    . 
Sciadopitys  verticillata    . 
Scilla  campanulata    .... 

sibirica 

Scirpus  lacustris  ._     . 

tabernaemontanus  zebrinus 

Scotch  Broom 

Screen  plantings,  Lists  for 
Sea  Holly,  Amethyst     .     .     . 
Sea  Lavender,  Broad-leaved    . 

Sea  Poppy 

Seaside  planting,    Trees    and 

shrubs  for 

Hardy  in  less  severe  seaside 
exposures       .... 

Conifers 

Deciduous  trees 

Shrubs 

Hardy    under    exposure    of 
North  Atlantic  Coast    . 

Conifers 

Deciduous  trees 

Shrubs 

Sedge  

Variegated  Sweet 
Sedum  (in  variety)   .... 

acre 

album 

nevi 

sexangulare 

spectabile 

spurtum 

sloloniferum 

Seeding  annuals 

Seeding  seasons  (for  lawns) 
Select     list     of     horticultural 
varieties 

Evergreens,  Broad-leaved     . 
Other   broad-leaved  ever- 
greens  

Rhododendrons  and  azaleas 

Lilacs 

Lilies  for 

Calcareous  soil  .... 

Clay  soil 

Easy  culture  in  garden  soil 
Moist  and  boggy  locations 

Open  sun 

Sandy  or  dry  soils  .     .     . 
Shady  locations 
Undergrowth     .... 

Lily  table 

Peonies 

Roses 

Trees,  Small  Flowering   .     . 
Sempervivum  (in  variety) 

arachnoideum 

colcareum 

lector  urn 


GROUP 


31-L-c 

24-A-a 

22-A,  44-C-a 

22-A,  44-C-a 

26-A-b 

15-A.  18-A 

30-A,  31-M-a,  45-J     .      .      . 
15-C,  31-B-a,  46-B-a        .      . 

35-B-a 

45-A-b 

15-C,  31-B-a,  31-M-a,  46-B-a 

45-A-b 

32-A 

31-B-e,  31-1     .      . 

31-B-h 

31-D 

31-D 

31-D 

31-D 

43-D,  43-F-c,  43-F-d,  43-H  . 


32-A,  32-E 

34-B 

9-A,  9-B,  14-A-a,  16-A,  45-E 

36-B      .      .      . 

36-A 

31-L-b 

31-L-b 

19-F-a,  24-B-b,  26-B-c,  45-F-e 

12-C,  23 

24-E,  31-B-e,  45-1  .  .  . 
31-B-e,  31-B-i  .... 
24-E 


26 


26-B 
26-B-b 
26-B-a 
26-B-c 


26-A .      .      . 

26-A-b 

26-A-a 

26-A-c 

30-B,  31-L-b 

31-L-b 

24-E,  31-B-j.  31-B-k,  31-M-a,  45-J 

15-C,  29-F,  29-G 

15-C,  29-B 

45-A-a 

15-C,  29-G 

15-C 

29-B,  29-C 

29-B 


33    . 
33-E 


33-E-b  .  .  . 

33-E-a  .  .  . 

33-A      .  .  . 

33-F      .  .  . 

33-F-d  .  .  . 

33-F-h  .  .  . 

33-F-b  .  . 

33-F-c  .  .  . 

33-F-e  .  .  . 

33-F-g  .  .  . 

33-F-i    .  .  . 

33-F-f  .  .  . 
33-F-a  . 

33-B      .  .  . 

33-D     .  .  . 

33-C      .  .  . 

24-E,  29-G.  . 
29-F,  32-G-a-l 

32-G-a-l  .  . 
32-G-a-l 


PAGE 

235 

180 

173,  314 

173,  314 

190 

138,  151 

212,  235,  331 

140,  222,  336 

265 

320 

140,  222,  235,  336 

320 

240 

224,232 

225 

229 

229 

229 

229 

304,  307,  308 

275 

240,  242 

260 

112,  113,  134.  145,  323 

271 

270 

234 

234 

157,  181,  191,  325 

125,  176 

184,  224,  330 

224,226 

184 

188,  illus.  254 

190 
191 
191 
191 

189 

190 

189 

190 

212,  234 

234 

184,  226,  235,  331 

140,  208,  209 

140,205 

319 

140,209 

140 

205 

205 

384 

13, 16,  illus.  14 

249 
252 

252 

252 

249 

253 

257 

257 

256 

256 

257 

257 

257 

257 

254 

250 

251 

250 

184,209 

208,243 

243 

243 


Senecio 

429 

Snow  Wreath 

NAME 

GROUP 

PACE 

Senecio  clivorum  

31-C-a,  31-L-c. 

227,235 

cineraria     

32-G-b-l     . 

244 

scondens      

35-B-a  . 

265 

Senna,  Argentine      .... 

45-F-c,  45-K-b 

325,332 

Scorpion     

45-A-b,  45-F-a 

319,  323 

Seterinia  buxifolia    .... 

43-E-a,  43-H   . 

305,308 

Shad-bush      

13-B-c,  17,  19-A,  20-D-a,  22-B,  26-B-a, 

131,   149,   154,   165.   173,   191, 

27,  39,  41      .      . 

193,  285,  293 

Shade-loving  plants 

27    .... 

192 

Shade  of  woodland,  Plants  for. 

28    .      . 

196 

Shaded  locations,  Plants  for     . 

27    .... 

192 

Shasta  Daisy  

31-B-f,  31-F,  31-1,  31-K-c     . 

225,  230,  232,  234 

Large    

31-D     .... 

229 

Sheep  Berry  

13-A-c,  19-C,  26-B-c,  27 

130,  156,  191,  193 

Shepherdia  argentea  .... 

12-E-b,  12-E-d 

126 

canadensis  

12-E-b,  12-E-d,  25-B,  26-A-c,  29-E-a    . 

126,  187.  190,  207 

Shooting  Star      

15-C      

140 

Shore  Grape  

43-J-a   

310 

Shore    Planting      (See    Lake, 

River,  or  Seaside) 

Shortia     

15-A,  29-H,  33-E-b,  45-A-b,  45-J    . 

139,  209,  253,  320,  331 

galacifolia  

15-A,  29-H,  33-E-g,  45-A-b,  45-J     .      . 

139.  209,  253,  320,  331 

Shrubs  for  accent  and  speci- 

mens   

14-B      

135 

For  forcing  in  water  in 

early  spring    .... 

41     . 

292 

Fast-growing 

23-B 

177 

Sidalcea  (in  variety) 

31-B-f,  31-C-a.      . 

225,228 

Candida  

31-B-f,  31-C-a.      .      .     . 

225,  228 

Silene  alpestris    

29-F      

208 

maritima    

15-C      

140 

Pennsylvania  

15-C      

140 

schafta  

15-C      

140 

Silk  Oak   

43-A,  43-B-b    

301,302 

Silk  Vine  

25-C,  29-E-c,  34-C,  34-E,  45-L  .      .      . 

187,  207,  261,  333 

Silver  Bell      

14-B,    19-B,    19-G-a    24-C-b.    42-B-a. 

135,  155,  158.  182,  297.  328 

45-H-a    

Silver  Bell  Tree  

44-G      

316 

Silver  Berry  

25-B      

187 

Silver  Vine    

24-B-c,  24-C-a,  25-C,  34-C,  34-D,  34-E 

182,  183,  187,  260,  261 

Chinese      

45-L      

332 

Dark-leaved    

25-C,  34-A  

187,  260 

Skimmia  japonica     .... 

45-F-d  

326 

Japanese    

45-F-d  

326 

Small  garden  areas,  Plants  for. 
Smilactna  racemosa  .... 

31-E     
31-C-a  

229 
228 

Smilax      

30-A,  43-C-a    

212,303 

Florida  . 

45-L      

333 

hispida       

22-C-b-2     

175 

lanceolata    

45-L      

333 

rotundifolia      

•  25-C      

187 

Smoke  Bush  

14-B,  19-C,  45-H-b    

135,  155,  329 

Snakeroot      

28-B,  31-C-a,  45-J      

197,  227,  331 

Large  Button  

24-E      

184 

Mottled            

45-A-a  

319 

Virginia      

45-A-a  

319 

White   

31-B-j,  31-E,  31-L-c,  45-1      .... 

226,  230,  235,  330 

Snapdragon   

31-J,    32-A,    32-E,    32-H-b,    35-A-a, 

233,  240.  242,  246,  264.  285. 

35-A-b,  39,  45-1  

330 

Half  -dwarf  

32-H-a  

246 

Sneezeweed    

31-K-c.  45-1     

234,330 

Tall       

31-E,  31-L-c    

230,235 

Yellow  

31-B-l  

227 

Snowball  

39    

285 

Chinese      

22-C-b-I     

175 

Japanese    

40-B,  40-C-b    

290,  291,  illus.  206 

Pink      

45-F-d  

326 

Single  Japanese     .... 
Snowberry     

13-A-b.  19-B    
11-B,  12-E-d,  12-E-e,  13-A-a,  13-B-a, 

129,  155 
120,   126.   129,   130,   149.   163. 

17,  20-B,  20-D-a,  20-D-b,  27,  42-A-b, 

166,192,297,324,337.illu8.238 

45-F-a,  46-C-b  

Evergreen  

33-E-b  

252 

Snow  Bush    

43-E-a  

305 

Snow  Creeper     

43-C-a  

303 

Snowdrop      

36-E-a  

274 

Common    

45-J      

331 

Giant    

36-A     

270 

Snowflake      ,     

36-B     

271 

Summer     

31-L-c  

235 

Snow  Garland,  Hybrid  .     .      . 
Snow-in-summer       .... 

13-A-a,  19-A,  19-B.  19-G-a,  4\  42-A-a. 
15-C,  24-E,  29-B,  29-F,  29-G,  31-B-b, 

129,  154.  155,  158,  293.  297 
139,   184,  204,  208,  209.  223, 

31-M-a  

235 

Snow  Wreath      .      ,      ,      ,      . 

45-F-c  

326 

Soapwort 


NAME 

Soapwort,  Rock 

Soil  conditions,   Various  types 

of 

Alkaline  soils 

Boggy  and  peaty  soils 
Boggy  situations  . 
Peaty  situations 

Clay  soils 

Shrubs  for 

Trees  for 

Vines  for 

Drought-resisting  plants 
Light  and  sandy  soils    . 

Shrubs  for 

Trees  for 

Vines  for 

Solandra  guttata 

Solatium  (in  variety) 

dulcamara 

jasminoides 

jasminoides  grandiflorum. 

seaforthianum 

wendlandi 

Solidago  (in  variety)      .      .     . 

arguta 

caesia    

canadensis 

neglecta 

speciosa 

Solomon's  Seal 

Sophora 

Sophora  (in  variety) 

japonica 

vkiifnlia 

Sorbaria  arborea 

arbor ea  glabrata     .... 

sorbifolia 

Sorbus  (in  variety)   .... 

americana 

aucuparia 

hybrida  iastigiata  .... 

quercifolia 

Sorrel,  Sheep 

Wood 

Sour  Gum 

Sourwood       

South  Atlantic  States,   Plants 

for 

Border  planting    .... 
Shrubs,  Low-growing    de- 
ciduous      

Shrubs,  Low-growing  ever- 
green   

Shrubs,     Medium-growing 

deciduous       .... 

Shrubs,     Medium-growing 

evergreen 

Evergreens 

Formal  effects 

Fruit    valuable    for    colour 

effects . 

Ground  cover  . 
Dry  places 
Moist  places 
Hedges 

Holding  leaves  in  winter    . 
Not  holding  leaves  in  winter 
Not  used  in  North     . 

Shrubs 

Trees 

Perennials   for  gardens  and 

cut  flowers     .... 

Perennials  for  naturalizing  in 

wild  gardens  .... 

Specimens 

Shrubs 

Trees 

Street  planting     .... 

Vines 

Southernwood 

Spacing  of  plants     .... 

Spatter-dock 

Specimen  trees  and  shrubs 


430 

GROUP 
15-C,  29-A,  31-B-c,  31-C-b 


24 

24-D 

24-A 

24-A-a 

24-A-b 

24-C 

24-C-b 

24-C-a 

24-C-c 

24-E 

24-B 

24-B-b 

24-B-a 

24-B-c 

43-C-a 

43-J-c    ...'.... 

34-D 

35-A-b,  35-B-a      .... 

45-L 

43-C-a 

43-C-a 

31-B-l,  31-E,  45-J      .      .      . 

28-B 

28-B 

31-C-a,  38-C-a      .     .      .      . 

24-A-a 

28-B 

29-C,  31-C-b,  39  .... 

42-C 

13-A-b,  24-B-b  .  .  .  . 
11-A,  19-F-b,  45-H-a,  45-K-a 
13-A-b,  24-B-b  .... 

42-A-b 

19-D,  19-1 

25-B,  29-E-a 

20-D-b,  42-C 

25-A,  44-E-b 

10-C.  20-B 

14-A-b 

14-A-a,  16-D-b-l  .... 

30-B 

30-A 

39 

14-A-a,  19-D,  22-A.  45-H-a  . 


45    . 
45-F 


Specimen  Trees 


45-F-a 
45-F-b 
45-F-c 

45-F-d 

45-D 

45-E 


45-G 

45-A 

45-A-b 

45-A-a 

45-B 

45-B-a 

45-B-b 

45-K  . 

45-K-b 

45-K-a 


45-1. 


45-J 

45-H 

45-H-b 

45-H-a 

45-C 

45-L 

24-E.  31-B-f,  31-B-j,  37-A-c,  37-B-b 


43-1. 
14  . 


PAGE 
140,  204,  223,  228 

178 
183 
179 
180 
181 
182 
182 
182 
183 
183 
181 
181 
181 
182 
303 
311 
261 
265 
333 
303 
303 

227,  229,  528 
198 

198 

228,  281 
180 
198 

205,  228,  285 

298 

129,  182 

119,  158,  329,  331 

129,  182 

297 

156,  159 

187,  207 

166,  298 

186,  315 

117,  163 

135 

134,  147 

213 

212 

285 

133,  156,  173.  328 

318 
332 

323 
324 
325 

326 
322 
322 

327 
319 
319 
319 
320 
320 
321 
331 
332 
331 

329 

330 

327 

329 

327 

321 

332 

184,  224,  226,  276,  277 

29 

310 

132,  illus.  110,  111 


Speedwell 

431 

Spurge 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Speedwell  

29-F,  30-A,  31-1,  45-1 

208,  212,  232,  330 

Creeping    

15-C,  29-A,  29-G  .      . 

140,  204,  209 

Hoary   

15-C,  31-B-a    .      .      . 

140,  222 

Japanese    . 

31-B-e  .... 

224 

Rock     

29-F      .      .      . 

208 

Spike-flowered       .... 

31-B-e  .... 

224 

Spice  Bush     

19-A,  19-F-a,  20-D-a,  27,  28-A,  30-A 

154,    157,  165,    193,    196,  212, 

37-B-a,39,  40-B,  42-A-a,  44-G,  45-F-c 

277,  285.  289,  296,  316,  325 

Spiderwort     

31-B-a,  31-C-a 

222,  228 

Common    

31-D     .      .      . 

229 

Spikenard,  American 

28-B      .      .      . 

197 

False     

31-C-a  .      .      . 

228 

Spindle  Tree  

20-D-b        .      .      . 

166 

Bunge's      

13-A-c,  45-G    

129,  327 

European   . 

13-A-c,  14-B,  20-B,  22-C-a   . 

129,  135,  163,  174 

Half-evergreen 

22-C-b-l 

174 

Japanese     . 

13-A-b  .      . 

129 

Spiraea  (in  variety) 

11-B      .      . 

120 

argula   .      .      .  ' 

13-A-a,  19-A,  19-B,  19-G-a,  41,  42-A-a. 

129,  154,  155,  158,  293,  297 

billardi       

19-D,  42-A-a   .      . 

156,  297 

bumalda  anthony  waterer  . 

12-B,  13-A-a,  19-D,  19-E-b,  19-1,  45-F-a 

124,  129,  156,  157,  159,  324 

callosa  alba       

12-B,  19-D       .... 

124,  156 

douglasi      

42-A-b  .      .      . 

297 

japonica  alba   

13-A-a  

129 

prunifolia   

13-A-b,  19-G-b,  42-A-a,  45-F-c  .      . 

129,  159,  297,  326 

pTunifolia  flore  plena  . 

19-A      

154 

saltcifoha    

19-C,  26-A-c,  29-E-a  .     .     . 

156,  190,  207 

sorbifolta     

44-B-a  

314 

lomentosa    

19-E-b,  25-B,  29-E-a,  42-A-a,  44-B-a    . 

157,  187,  207,  297,  314 

vanhoutlei  

12-D,  12-E-c,  12-E-e,  13-A-b,  17,  19-B, 

125,   126,    129,   149,   155,    158, 

19-G-a,    19-1,    24-B-b,    38-C-a,    42- 

159,  182,  281,  297,  326,  337 

A-a,  45-F-c,  46-C-a      

veitchi   

13-A-b  

129 

Spirea       

11-B      

120 

Billard's     

19-D,  42-A-a   

156,  297 

Blue      

13-A-a,    16-C,    19-H,    31-B-i,    31-B-j, 

128,  146,  159,  226,  233,  329 

45-F-a,  45-H-b  

Chinese  Mountain  Ash    . 

19-D,  19-1,  42-A-b      

156,  159,  297 

Crimson     

12-B,  13-A-a,  19-D,  19-E-b,  19-1,  45-F-a 

124,  129,  156,  157,  159,  324 

David's      

31-B-g,  31-L-c  

225,  234 

Douglas      

42-A-b  

297 

Dwarf  White  

13-A-a  

129 

Fortune's  White   .... 

12-B,  19-D  

124,  156 

Mountain  Ash-leaved 

25-B,  29-E-a    

187,  207 

Sorb-leaved      

44-B-a  

314 

Veitch's      

13-A-b  

129 

Spleenwort,  Ebony  .... 

29-D-a        

206 

Maidenhair      

29-D-a  

206 

Spraying  

75 

Sprekelia  formosissima  . 

36-E-b  

274 

Spring  Beauty     

31-C-b  

228 

Spring-flowering  plants. 

19-A,  31-B  

154,  222 

Spruce      

12-C,  14-A-a,  30-A,  39,  42-D     .      .      . 

125,  133,  212,  285,  298,  illus.  Ill 

Alcock's      

9-A,  9-B     

111,  112 

Black    

9-C       

113 

Black  Hills      

44-A-a,  44-A-b,  44-F        

313,  316 

Colorado    

9-A,  11-A   

112,  119 

Columnar  Norway 

14-A-b,  16-D-b-2  

135,  147 

Compact  Norway. 

9-E        

114 

Cone-shaped  Norway 

9-E       

114 

Dwarf  Blue     

9-E       

114 

Dwarf  Norway     .... 

9-E,  18-A   

114,  151 

Dwarf  Oriental      .... 

9-E        .... 

114 

Dwarf  Pyramidal  Norway    . 

9-E        

114 

Engelmann's    

9-A,  9-B,  39,  46-H-a  

111,  112,  284,  339 

Globe  Douglas      .... 

9-E       

114 

Gregory's  Dwarf  Norway 
Koster  s  Blue  

9-E,  15-A,  18-A    
9-B,  26-A-b,  44-F  

114,  138,  151 
112,  190,  316 

Norway      

9-A,  9-B,  12-A-a,  16-B-a,  23-A,  24-C-a, 

112,   124,   145,  177,   182,   186, 

25-A,  44-A-a,  44-F,  46-A-b     .      .      . 

313,  316,  335 

Oriental      

16-B-a  

145 

Pyramidal  Norway     . 

14-A-b,  16-A,  16-D-b-2,  44-D    .      .      . 

135,  145,  147,  314 

Red  

26-A-b  

190 

Servian  

9-A,  9-B,  16-D-b-2     

112,  147 

Sitka     

46-H-a  

339 

Tablet-shaped  

9-E 

114 

White   

9-A,  9-B,  24-A-a,  25-A,  26-A-b,  27,  44-F 

111,   112,   180,   186,   190,   193, 

316 

Spurge,  Carolina  

29-C     

205 

Flowering  

15-C     

140 

Japanese    

15-A,  15-C,  29-B,  29-C,  29-E-b,  29-H, 

138,   140,  204.  205,  207,  209, 

33-E-b,  46-B-a,  46-B-b       .... 

253,  336,  illus.  270 

Squill 

432 

Sunny  Exposures 

NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Squill  

36-B 

271 

Siberian      

36-A      . 

270 

Slachvs  lanaia      

24-E 

183 

Stagger  Bush       

45-F-a  .      .      . 

324 

Staphylea       

42-B-a  . 

297 

pinnata  

20-A,  45-H-b   . 

162,  329 

trifolia  

13-B-c,  20-A,  20-B,  28-A,  45-H-b    . 

131,  162,  163,  197,  329 

Star  of  Bethlehem    .... 

36-B 

271 

Starwort  

15-C,  29-A,  31-B-b,  31-M-b 

140,  204,  223,  235 

Statice  latifolia     

31-B-e,  31-B-i       .     . 

224,  226 

Steeple  Bush  

13-B-a,  31-L-c. 

130,  235 

Stellaria  holostea        .... 

15-C,  29-A,  31-B-b     . 

140,  204,  223 

media    

30-A.30-B. 

212,  213 

Stenanthium  robustum    . 

31-E      

230 

Stenolobium  stans,  variety  sam- 

bucifolia    

43-F-c  . 

307 

Stephanandra     

13-A-a,  40-B,  42-A-a,  45-F-a,  46-F  . 

129,  290,  297,  324,  338 

flexuosa       

13-A-a,  40-B,  42-A-a,  45-F-a,  46-F 

129,  290,  297,  324,  338 

Sterculia  platanifolia 

45-H-a,  45-K-a      .      . 

329,  331 

Stevia       

32-G-b-l     .      .      . 

244 

Dwarf  

35-B-b  .... 

266 

serrata  nana     

35-B-b  .... 

266 

Stewartia  penlagyna 

14-B,  19-D,  19-G-b,  45-H-b 

135,  156,  159,  329 

Sticktight       

30-B      

212 

Stipa  spar  tea        

38-B      . 

280 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks    .... 

32-H-a  .... 

246 

Brompton  

32-H-b       

246 

Common    

32-A,  32-E,  32-H-a    . 

240,  242,  246 

Stokesia  cyanea         .... 

15-C,  31-B-e,  31-1 

140,  224,  232 

St.  John's  Wort  

19-D,  10-F-b   .      . 

156,  158,  illus.  226 

Buckley's  

22-C-b-l     . 

175 

Bushy  

24-A-a  

180 

Hybrid       

13-A-a,  22-C-b-l   .... 

128,  175 

Kalm's  

26-B-c,  28-B    .... 

191,  197 

Large-flowered      .... 

13-B-a,  33-E-b,  45-F-a    .      .      . 

130,  253,  324 

Mountain  

45-F-a  

324 

Naked-flowered     .... 

45-F-a  

324 

Shrubby     

45-F-a  

324 

Stone,  Vines  to  grow  on 

34-B      

260 

Stone-breaker     

30-A,  45-J  .... 

212,  331 

Stonecrop  (in  variety)   . 

24-E,  31-B-j,  31-B-k,  31-M-a,  45-J.      . 

184,  226,  235,  331,  illus.  126 

Brilliant     

15-C      

140 

Dark  Green     

15-C,  29-G  

140,209 

Mossy  

15-C,  29-F,  29-G  . 

140,  208,  209 

Nevius'       

45-A-a  

319 

Purple  

29-B      .     .     . 

205 

Spreading  

29-B,  29-C  
15-C,  29-B.      .     .      . 

205 
140,  205 

Storax,  American     .... 

45-F-c  

326 

Broad-leaved  

45-F-c  

326 

Japanese    

45-F-c,  45-H-b      .... 

326,  329 

Strawberry  Bush      .... 

11-B,  13-B-b,  14-B,  20-B      .... 

120,  131,  135,  163 

Running     

15-B,  18-B,  28-B,  29-C    . 

139,  151,  197,  205 

Strawberry  Shrub    .... 

13-B-b,  24-C-b,  27,  28-A,  37-A-a,  40-B, 

130,   182,   193,   196,  276,  289, 

43-F-d,  45-F-c,  46-C-b,  46-E  .      .      . 

307,  325,  337 

Strawberry  Tree  

45-G,  45-K-b  

327,  332 

Strawberry,  Wild      .... 

45-J       

331 

Yellow  

45-A-b  

319 

Straw  Flower      

32-A      

240 

Street    and    avenue    planting, 

Trees  for      .... 

10    . 

115 

Hardy  under  all  conditions 

10-A      

116 

Special  conditions 

10-B     

117 

Undesirable  trees  for  streets 

10-C      

117 

Styrax  americana      .      .  '  . 

45-F-c  

326 

japonica      

45-F-c,  45-H-b      

326,  329 

45-F-c   

326 

Sumac      

17,  20-D-b,  39  

149,  166,  285 

Fragrant    

13-A-b,    13-B-b,    22-B,   24-B-b,    25-B, 

129,  131,  173,  181,  187,  207,  277 

29-E-a,  37-B-a,  40-B    

Shining  

13-A-b,  26-B-c,  29-E-a     

129,  191,  207 

Smooth      

20-B,    20-C,    25-B,    26-A-c,    29-E-a, 

163,  187,  190,  207,  337,  338 

46-C-b,  46-F      

Staghorn    ...... 

20-B,  20-C,  22-A,  25-B,  26-A-c,  29-E-a, 

163,   173,   187,   190,  207,  281, 

38-C-b,  44-C-a  

314 

Summer-flowering  Plants   .     . 
Summer  Lilac     

19-C,  31-B  
19-D,    19-H,    37-A-a,    40-B,    45-F-c, 

155,  224 
156,  159,  276,  289,  325 

45-H-b    

Sundrops       

24-E     

184 

Sunflower,  Hardy     .... 

31-B-h,    31-C-a,    31-E,    31-1,    31-K-a, 

226,  227,  230,  232,  233,  235, 

31-M-b,  38-C-a,  45-1    

280,330 

Single  Annual       .... 

32-A      

240 

Sunny  exposures,  Perennials  for 

29-G     

208 

Supple-jack 


433 


Thalia 


NAME 

GROUP 

PAGE 

Supple-jack   

45-L      

332 

Surinam  Cherry        .... 

43-D,  43-E-a   

304,305 

Swainsona      

35-A-a  

264 

Swainsona  galegifolia 

35-A-a  

264 

Swamp-pink  

24-A-a,  29-H,  31-L-c,  45-A-a      .      .      . 

180,  209,  235,  319 

Sweet   Gum  

10-B,    14-A-a,    20-A,   22-A,   39,    40-B, 

117,   133,   162,    173,    285,  289, 

40-C-b,  43-B-a,  43-J-a,  45-C,  45-H-a. 

291,  301,  310,  321,  328 

Sweet  Leaf,  Japanese    . 

20-B       

163 

32-A,  32-C  

240,  241 

Hardy  

31-D,  34-A       

229,  260 

Sweet  Rocket      

31-C-a,  37-A-c,  45-1  

227,  277,  330 

Sweet-scented  Flowers  . 

275 

Sweet  Sultan  

32-A      

240 

Sweet  William     .                  .      . 

31-B-f,  31-B-g,  31-1,  31-J,  31-N,  32-H-a 

225,  232,  233,  236,  246 

Wild      

28-B,  31-C-a,  31-C-b,  40-A  .... 

198,  227,  228,  289 

Sword  Flower  (See  also  Gladio- 

lus)       

31-G,  36-E-a,  45-1      

231,  274,  330 

Sycamore  

33    

285 

Symphoricarpos  (in  variety) 

11-B,  12-E-d,  20-D-a,  20-D-b    .      .      . 

120,  126,  166 

occidentalis  

25-B      

187 

12-E-e,   13-A-a,   13-B-a,   17,  20-B,  27, 

126,   129,   130,   149.   163,   193, 

42-A-b,  45-F-a,  46-C-b       .... 

297,  324,  337 

vulgaris  

13-A-a,     13-B-a,     17,     20-B,     24-B-b, 

129,   130,    149,   163.   182,   191, 

25-B-c,    27,    29-E-a,    44-B-a,    45-F-a, 

207,  314,  324,  337 

46-C-b    

Symplocos  paniculata 

20-B      

163 

Syringa  (in  variety)  .... 

13-A-c,  19-B,  42-A-a  

130,  155,  297 

japonica     . 

19-C      

156 

persica  

13-A-b  

129 

11-B,     12-  D,     12-E-a,    25-B,    37-A-a, 

120,  125,  126.  187.  276.  291 

40-C-b    

19-1,  46-C-a     

159,  337 

vulgaris  President  Grevy  . 

19-H     

159 

Tabernaemontana      .... 

16-C                  

146 

coronaria  flore  plena    . 

43-A-a,  43-F-a      

305,  306 

Table  of  Contents    .... 

XI 

Ta^etes  erecta  

32-A,  32-H-a,  32-H-b 

240,  246 

patula    '.      . 

32-H-a  

246 

Tallow  Tree,  Chinese     .      .      . 

45-H-a  

329 

Tamarack      

24-A-a,  24-C-a,  26-A-b,  40-C-a  .      .      . 

180,  182,  190,  290 

Tamarindus  indica   .... 

43-D     

304 

Tamarind       

43-D     

304 

Manila        

43-A,  43-J-a     

301,  310 

Tamarisk       

19-D,  24-B-b,  43-F-b,  43-J-b      .      .      . 

156,  182,  306,  310 

Caspian      

14-B      

135 

French  

17,  40-B     

149,  290 

German      

45-F-c  

326 

Tamarix  (in  variety) 

19-D,  24-B-b   

156,  182 

caspica        

43-F-b,  43-J-b  

306,  310 

gallica   

17,  40-B     

149,  290 

odessana     

14-B      

135 

37-B-b  

277 

Tansy  

37-B-b  

277 

Double       

31-D.  31-E       

229 

Taraxacum  officinale. 

30-A      

212 

Tarragon  

37-B-b  

277 

Taxodium  distichum. 

14-A-a,  16-D-b-l,  24-A-a,  45-E,  45-H-a 

134,  147,  180,  323,  329 

distichum  pyramidatum    . 
Taxus  (in  variety)    .... 

14-A-b  
40-B,  42-E,  44-G,  45-E    

135 
290,  298,  317,  323 

baccata  

45-D,  45-G,  46-H-a    

322,  327,  339 

baccata  fasligiata  .... 

16-D-b-l,  46-H-a  

147,  339 

baccata  repandens 

9-A,  9-B,  9-E,  15-A,  18-A     .... 

112,  113,  114,  139,  151 

brevifolia     

46-H-a  

339 

canadensis  

9-A,  9-D,  15-A,  24-A-b,  27,  29-C,  29-H, 

112,   113,   139,   181,   193,  205, 

40-C-a    

209,  290 

cuspidala    

9-A,  16-B-a,  45-D       

112,  145,  322 

cuspidata  brevifolia 

9-A,  9-B.  18-A      

112,  113,  151 

9-B        

113 

cuspidata  densa     .... 

9-E        

114 

cuspidata  nana      .... 

15-A,  16-B-a    

139,  145 

Tea  Plant      

43-E-b,  45-B-a,  45-K-b    

305,  321,  332 

Tecoma  starts        

43-F-c  

307 

Telanthera  amoena    .... 

32-G-a-l     

243 

bettzickiana      

32-G-a-l     

243 

versicolor     

32-G-a-l     

243 

Tetrapanax  papyriferum 
Thalia       

43-F-a  
31-L-b  

306 
234 

dealbata      

31-L-b  

234 

Thalictrum 

NAME 

Thalictrum  (in  variety) 

adiantifolium   . 

aquilegifolium  . 

dipterocarpum 

Maidenhair 
Thea  sinensis 
Thermopsis  caroliniana 
Thevetia  nereifolia 
Thorn. 


Black    .      .     .     .    '  . 
Cockspur   .... 
Carrier's  Red-flowering 
Evergreen  .... 


Jerusalem  . 
Kangaroo  . 
Large-flowering     . 
Large-fruited  . 
Low-growing  Fiery 
May      .... 


Paul's        Double        Scarlet- 
flowering  

Red-flowering        .... 

Round-fruited 

Scarlet- fruited 

Small-leaved  Silver    . 

Silver 

Variegated  Silver 

Washington 

Thoroughwort,  Rough  . 
Thrift,  Lauch's  Sea  .... 

Sea 

White  Sea  .     .      .      .      .      . 

Thuja  (in  variety)    .... 

occidentalis 

occidentalis  aurea  .... 

occidentalis  compacla  . 

occidentalis  douglasi    . 

occidentalis  dumosa 

occidentalis  ellwangeriana 

occidentalis  fastigiata 

occidentalis  globosa 

occidentalis  hoveyi 

occidentalis,  Little  Gem   . 

occidentalis  lutea    .... 

occidentalis  nana  .... 

occidentalis  plicala 

occidentalis  pumila 

occidentalis  pyramidalis   . 

occidentalis  reidi    .... 

occidentalis  rosenthali 

occidentalis  Tom  Thumb  or 
variety  umbraculifera     . 

occidentalis  vervaeneana    . 

occidentalis  wagneriana    .      . 

occidentalis  wareana    . 

occidentalis  woodwardi 

mientalis 

orientalis  pyramidalis . 

plicata 

Thujopsis  dolobrata  .... 
Thunbergia 

alata 

erecta  alba 

Thunbergia 

White 

Thyme,  Downy 

Thymus  serpyllum    .... 

serpyllum  lanuginosus 
Tiarella  cordifolia     .... 
Tickseed 

Dwarf 

Lance-leaved 

Tick  Trefoil 

Tilia  (in  variety)      .... 

americana 


434 

GROUP 

30-A,  45-1  .     .     . 

31-B-h  .......... 

15-C,  31-B-b,  31-C-a        ..... 

31-H,  31-L-c    .      .      . 

31-B-h  .......... 

34-E-b,  45-B-a,  45-K-b    . 

31-B-h,  31-H   .      .      . 

43-F-c,  43-J-b 

11-A,    12-E-d,    13-B-c,    14-A-a,    19-B, 

19-G-a,  20-B,  20-C,  22-B,  39,  40-B, 

40-C-b  ......... 

12-A-b  .......... 

12-A-b,  16-B-b,  20-D-b,  26-B-a       .     . 
33-C      .......... 

12-A-a,  12-B,  16-C,  20-B,  20-C,  33-E-b, 

42-B-a,  45-B-a,  45-G,  46-A-b.      .      . 
45-H-a  .......... 

45-B-a  ......... 

33-C      ..... 

33-C      ...... 

33-E-b  .      .      . 

12-A-b,     16-B-b,     16-D-a,     16-D-b-l, 

20-D-b,  25-A,  26-B-a,  46-A-a  .      .      . 

33-C 

33-C      .......... 

45-G 

12-A-b,  20-D-b,  25-A,' 

45-F-c 

43-D,  43-F-a,  45-F-d 

45-F-d 

12-A-b,  20-D-b,  26-B-b,  33-C     . 

24-A-a 

31-B-c 

29-A,  29-F,  29-G,  31-K-b,  45-J  . 

31-B-b 

12-A-a,  14-A-a,  30-A,  42-E   .. 

9-B,  9-D,  24-A-a,  24-C-a,  44-F  . 

9-A       .....  .      . 

9-E 
9-A 
9-E       ..... 

9-E,  12-B  ....... 

14-A-b 

9-A,  9-E,  12-B,  18-A 

9-E 

9-A,  9-E,  18-A 

16-D-D-2 

9-E 

9-A,  14-A-b     '.'.'.'.'.'. 

9-E 

9-A,  16-A,  16-C 

9-E 

9-A 


Tilia 


,  44-A-a 


euchlora 
europaea 
tomentosa 

vulgaris 


12-B 

9-A 

9-E 

9-A,  9-B,  16-D-b-2     .... 

9-E 

9-B,  16-D-b-2,  45-B-a,  45-D      . 

14-A-b,  45-E 

16-D-b-2 

9-C 

43-C-a 

35-B-a 

43-F-a 

35-B-a,  43-C-a 

43-F-a 

15-C,  29-A,  29-F,  31-K-b,  33-E-b 

32-G-a-l 

15-C,  29-A,  29-F,  31-K-b,  33-E-b 

29-F 

31-B-h,  31-D,  32-A,  32-D,  43-1 

15-C 

31-B-h,  31-1 

30-B 

37-A-b 

24-A-a.  44-E-a 

10-A,  46-D 

11-A 

10-A,  11-A,  14-A-a     .... 
10-A,  46-F 


PAGE 


212,330 
226 

140,  223,  228 
231,  235 
226 

305,  321,  332 
226,  231 
307,  310 

119,   126,   131,   133,   155,   158, 
162,  163,  173,  285,  289,  290 

124 

124,  145,  166,  191 

250 

124,   146,   163,  253,  297,  321, 

327,  335 
328 
320 
250 
250 
253 

124,    145,   146,   147,   166,   186, 
191,  335 

250 

250 

327 

124,  166,  186,  191,  313 

325 

304,  306,  326 

326 

124,  166.  191,  250 

180 

223 

204,  208,  209,  233,  331 

223 

124,  134,  212,  298 

113,  180,  182,  316 
112 

114 
112 
114 

114,  125 
135 

112,  114.  125,  151 

114 

112,  114,  151 

147 

114 

112,  135 

114 

112,  145,  146 

114 

112 

125 
112 
114 

112,  113,  147 
114 

113,  147,  321,  322 
135,  323 

147 

303 

303 

265 

306 

265,303 

306 

140,  204,  208,  233,  253 

243 

140.  204,  208,  233,  253 

208 

225,  229,  240,  241,  309 

140 

225,  232 

213 

276 

180,  315 

117,  337 

119 

117,  119,  134 

117,  338 


Toad-flax  435  Trees 

NAME  GROUP  PAGE 

Toad-flax.  Dalmatian    .  .        24-E,  31-D .  184, 229 

Tobacco  Plant 32-E 242 

Tobira  Shrub 43-E-a,  43-F-a,  43-J-b,  45-B-a,  45-F-d,  305,  306,  310,  320,  326,  332 

45-K-b 

Tomatillo 43-C-a,  43-J-c 303,  311 

Tooth-wort,  Two-leaved       .    .        45-J 331 

Topiary  Work,  Plants  for 145 

Pruning  for 23 

Toreniaflava 32-G-3-2 244 

Yellow 32-G-a-2 244 

Touch-me-not 35-B-b 266 

Trarhelosftermum  jasminoides  .        43-C-a,  45-L 303,  333 

Tradescantia 31-B-a,  31-C-a 222,  228 

virginica 31-D 229 

Transplanting,  Articles  on 348 

Transplanting 29 

Annuals    difficult    to    trans- 
plant    32-C 241 

Annuals,  Transplanting  of    .         51 

Balled-and-burlapped     root 

systems 38 

Collected  stock.  Transplant- 
ing         33 

Conditions  for  transplanting 32 

Depth  for  transplanting 39 

Drainage     for     transplanted 

stock S8 

Evergreens,  Transplanting  of 48 

Fertilizing  transplanted  stock 40 

Heeling-in  stock  to  be  trans- 
planted       36 

Irises,  Transplanting  of 90 

Nursery-grown  trees  Trans- 
planting of     ....         46 

Nursery  stock,  Transplanting 33 

Peonies,  Transplanting  of 90 

Perennials   Requiring  trans- 
planting    31-K 233 

Perennials,  Transplanting  of         47 

Plan  ting  beds,  Preparation  of 36 

Plants  difficult  to  transplant       40-C 290 

Rarely  transplanted     .      .        40-C-a 290 

Recovering  slowly  .      .     .        40-C-b 290 

Pruning  transplanted  stock 41 

Reasons  for  transplanting 29 

Rhododendrons,  Transplant- 
ing of 49 

Root  protection  and  pud- 
dling for  transplanting «_l..'..fr-  37 

Season  for  transplanting 35,  286 

See  also  graphic  chart       .        Plate  III 14 

Shrubs,  Transplanting  effi- 
ciently        47  j 

Spacing  of  plants        ...         29 

Specific  seasons  for    trans- 
planting     40 286 

Autumn,  List  for   .      .     .        40-A 289 

Spring,  List  for.     .     .      .        40-B 289 

Tamping  and  watering 40 

Transplanting  small    seed- 
lings      40 

Trees,  transplanting  of 42 

Drainage  of  holes  or  pits  .         43 

Fertilizing  transplanted 

trees 45 

Method  of   procedure  in 

transplanting  large  trees 43 

Protection    after    trans- 
planting     44,  illus.  40 

Pruning  trees  after  trans- 
planting     45 

Season  to  transplant  and 

preparation  of  holes 42 

Vines,  Transplanting  of 47 

Winter  protection  after  trans- 
planting     41 

Trees 

Accent  and  specimens     .      .        14-A-a 133  v 

Books  on 345,346,347 

Columnar  or  pyramidal        .        14-A-b 134 

Congested  city  districts         .        11-A 119 

Exposed   water-front    condi- 
tions     25-A  186 


Trees 


NAME 


436 
GROUP 


Ulmus 


PAGE 


Trees  Fast-growing         .      .      .       33-A 177 

Fe'tilizers  for 

Established  specimens.      .         .    • 74 

Newly  transplanted  speci- 
mens    45 

Flowering  effects  ....        19 152 

Fruiting  effects 160 

Lists  oftrees  for 

Street  and  avenue  (See 
Street  and  avenue  plant- 
ing)    115,  illus.  79 

Pruning  of 19 

Soils,  Types  for  different       .        24 178 

Spe.  imen  planting      .      .      .         14-A-a 133 

Transplanting  of 42 

Windbreaks  and  screens 125 

Tree  of  Heaven 10-B,  11-A,  20-F,  23-A,  24-D,  39,  45-C  117,119,166,177,183,285,321 

Tree  surgery 73 

Trifolium 30-A 212 

repens 37-A-c 277 

Trillium 28-B,  29-H,  40-A 198,  209,  289,  illus.  302 

erectum 36-B 271 

ereclum  album        ....        29-C 205 

grandiflorum 31-B-b,  31-C-b,  36-B 223,  228,  271 

Tribhasia  trifoliata   ....        43- D,  43-E-a 304,  305 

Trollius  europaeus     ....        31-B-d,  40-A 224,  289 

Tropaeolum  canariense  .      .      .        32-F-a 242 

majus 32-  A,  32-C,  35-A-b,  35-B-a,  43-1      .      .  240,  241,  265.  310 

minus 32-G-b-2 244 

Trumpet  Creeper,  Chinese       .        43-C-a,  45-L 303,  332 

Hybrid 45-L 332 

Trumpet  Flower 43-F-c,  43-J-b 307 

Trumpet  Vine 29-E-c,  34-A,  34-B,  34-C,  34-E,  43-C-b,  207,  260,  261,  303,  332,  338 

45-L,  46-G 

Argentine 43-J-c 311 

Tsuga  canadensis      ....        9-A,  9-B,  9-D,   12-A-a,   12-C,   14-A-a.  112,   113,   124,    125,   134,    145, 

16-B-a20-D-b,24-C-a,  27, 28-A,  30-B,  166,  182,  193,  197,  213,290, 

40-C-a,  44-F,  46-E 316,  338 

canadensis  globosa.      .      .      .        9-E 114 

canadensis  nana    ....        9-E 114 

canadensis  fendula  (sargenti).       9-E 114 

caroliniana 9-A,  9-B,  12-C 112,  113,  125 

heterophylla 14-A-b,  46-H-a 135,  139 

Tub  plants 16-C 146,  illus.  174 

Tube-flower,  Chinese     .      .      .        43-1 309 

Tufted     Pansy — See     Pansy, 
Tufted 

Tulips illus.  350 

Combinations  of  ....        36-D 271 

Cottage  Tulips        .      .      .        36-D-c 272 

Darwin  Tulips  ....        36-D-d 272 

Double  Tulips  ....        36-D-b 272 

Single  Tulips     ....        36-D-a 271 

Early 36-B 271 

Early-flowering  Red  .      .      .        36-B 271 

Lady 36-B 271 

Tulips 36-A 270 

clusiana 36-B 271 

greigi 36-B 271 

kaufmanniana       ....        36-B  271 

Tulip  Tree 10-B,   20-A,   22-A,   39,   40-B,   40-C-a,  117,   162,   173,  285,  289,  291, 

42-C 298 

Pyramidal 14-A-b 135 

Tunica  saxifraza 15-C,  24-E,  29-B,  29-F,  31-C-b        .      .  140,184,205,208,228 

Saxifrage-like 15-C,  24-E,  29-B,  29-F,  31-C-b        .      .  140,  184.  205,  208,  228 

Tupelo 14-A-a,  20-D-a,  22-B,  24-A-a,  40-C-a,  133,   165,   173,   180,  290,  321, 

45-C,  45-H-a 328 

Turkey  Fruit 43-D .  304 

Turk's  Cap 43-F-d  .- 307 

Turk's  Turban 43-D 304 

Tussilago  farfara       ....        29-C 205 

Twigs,  Coloured 21 168,  illus.  246 

Twin-flower 15-A,  29-F 138, 208 

Ulex  europaeus 46-A-b 335 

Ulmus  (in  variety)   ....        24-D 183 

alata 45-C 322 

americana 10-A,  22-A,  24-A-a,  25-A,  40-B,  43-B-a,  117,   173,   180,   186,  290,  301, 

44-E-a,  46-D 315,  337 

campcstris 10-B,  11-A,  16-D-a 117,  119,  147 


Ulmus 


437 


Vinca 


NAME 

Ulmus  foliacea  wheatley. 

foliacea  dampieri  . 

glabra 

glabra  camperdowni     . 

glabra  fastigiata     . 

montana  pendula   . 
Umbrella  Plant  .... 
Umbrella  Tree    .... 
Undergrowth       planting       i 
wooded  areas 

Ground-cover  plants  for. 

Shrubs  and  small  trees  for 
Upland  Grass      .... 


GROUP 

14-A-a.  14-A-b.  16-D-b-l 

14-A-b 

10-A 

14-A-a 

16-D-b-l 

45-H-a 

35-B-c,  43-1 

43-B-a,  45-C.  45-G,  45-H-a,  45-K-a 

28 

28-B     .      .      .     '. 

28-A 

38-C-a  . 


PACE 

134.  135.  147 

135 

117 

134 

147 

329 

266,309 

301,  321,  327,  328,  331 

194.  illus.  255 

197 

196 

280 


Vaccinium  (in  variety)  . 

corymbosum 

vacillans  .... 
Valerian 

Greek 

Red 

Valeriana 

Vancouveria  htxandra  . 
Varnish  Tree . 


Japanese    . 

Veratrum  viride 

Verbascum 
olympicum 
phoeniceum 
phlomoides 

Verbena    . 


hybrida 

Vernonia  noveboracencis . 
Veronica  (in  variety) 

incana 

longifolia  subsessilis    . 

repens   

rupestris 

spicata 

leucrium,  variety  proslrata 

Vetch 

Viburnum  (in  variety)   . 

Viburnum  (in  variety)  . 


acerifolium . 

alni folium  . 

americanum 

carlesi   .... 

cassinoides 

dentatum     . 

dilatalum    . 

Evergreen  . 

Fragrant  Japanese 

Korean. 

lantana  .... 

lentago  .... 

Maple-leaved  . 

macrocepholum 

nudum  .... 

odoratissimum 

opulus  .... 

opulus  nanum 

plicatum 

prunifolium 

pubescens    . 

rhytidophyllum 

sieboldi 

Siebold's    .      .     . 

suspensum 

tinus 


tomentosum 
Vicia  .... 
Vinca  (in  variety) 

major    . 

minor    . 


minor  alba 


20-B,  20-D-a,  24-A-a,  30-A,  33-E-b      . 

22-B,  24-B-b,  44-C-b 

40-C-a 

37-A-c 

29-F,  31-B-a,  31-C-b,'45-I    ! 

45-J 

37-A-c  .      .     . 

15-C 

14-A-a.     19-C,    19-F-b,    22-A,    24-D, 

42-B-a,  45-H-a 

45-H-a,  45-K-a 

38-A      .     . 

31-D 

24-E 

24-E 

24-E 

29-1,    32-A,    32-E.    32-G-b-2,    32-H-a, 

35-B-a.  39,  43-1 

29-1,    32-A,    32-E.    32-G-b-2,   32-H-a, 

35-B-a,  43-1 

31-B-i,  38-C-a  .  .... 

30-A,  31-1. 39. 45-1      .  .      .      . 

15-C,  31-B-a 

31-B-o.  31-H 

15-C,  29-A,  29-G 

29-F 

31-B-e,  31-H 

29-F 

30-B 

11-B.     12-D,     13-B-c,     19-G-a,    20-B, 

20-D-b,  24-B-b.  24-C-b,  42-A-a    .      . 
11-B,    12-D,     13-B-c,     19-G-a,    20-B, 

20-D-b,  24-B-b,  24-C-b,  42-A-a   .      . 
13-B-b,  22-B,  27,  28-A,  44-C-b  .      .      . 

27 

19-1,  20-C,  46-C-b 

13-A-b,  19-C,  37-A-a,  46-C-a     .      .      . 

13-A-b,  19-C,  26-A-c 

19-C,  22-B,  26-A-c,  27 

13-A-b,  20-C 

22-C-b-l,  33-E-b 

43-F-a 

13-A-b.  19-C,  37-A-a,  46-C-a     .     .      . 

13-A-c 

13-A-c,  19-C,  26-B-c,  27       .... 
13-B-b,  22-B,  27,  28-A,  44-C-b  .     .     . 

22-C-b-l 

24-A-b 

43-F-a 

13-A-c.  17,  19-C,  20-C,  25-B,  27      .     . 
12-B,  15-B,  16-B-b,  18-B,  22-C-b-l       . 

40-B,  40-C-b 

16-B-b,  19-B,  27 

27 

22-C-b-l,  33-E-b 

19-C,  22-C-b-l 

19-C,  22-C-b-l 

45-F-d 

43-E-a,  43-F-a,  45-B-a,  45-F-d,  45-H-b, 

45-K-b,  46-A-b 

13-A-b,  19-B 

30-B 

43-1 

35-A-b,  35-A-c,  35-B-a,  45-A-b  .      .     . 
15-C,  29-B,  29-A,  29-B,  29-C.  29-E-b, 

29-F,  29-H.  31-B-a,  33-E-b,  45-A-a, 

46-B-b 

29-H  


163,  166,  180,  212,  253 

173,  182,  314 

290 

277 

208,  222,  228,  330 

331 

277 

140 

133,   155,   158,   173,   183,  297, 

328 

329.331 
279 
229 
184 
184 
184 
210,  240,  242,  244,  246,  265. 

285,  310 
210,  240.  242,  244,  246.  2G5, 

310 

226,281 

212.  232,  285,  330 
140,  222 
224,  231 
140,  204,  209 
208 

224,  232 
208 
213 
120,   125,   131,   158.   163.   166. 

182,  297 
120,   125,   131.   158,   163,   166. 

182,  297 

131,  173,  193,  197,  314 
193 

159.  164.  337 
129,  156,  276,  337 
129,  156,  190 
156.  173,  190,  193 
129,  164 
175.253 
306 

129,  156,  276,  337 
130 

130,  156,  191,  193 

131,  173,  193,  197,  314 
175 

181 

306 

130,  149,  156,  164,  187.  193 

125,  139,  145,  151,  175 

290,291 

145,  155,  193 

193 

175,  253 

156,  175 

156,  175 

326 

305,  306,  321,  326,  329.  332. 

335 

129,  155 
213 
310 

265,  320 
140,   198,  204.  205,  207,  208 

210,  222,  253,  319,  336 

210 


Vinca 


438 


White  Cup 


NAME 

Vinca,  Trailing  .... 
Vines  

Annual 

Books  on 

Fast-growing 

Flowering 

Foliage 

Fruiting 

Holding  leaves  in  late  au- 
tumn   

Protection  of 

Walls,  For  brick  and  masonry 
Viola  (in  variety)  .... 

canqdensis 

canina  

cornuta 

cornula  alba 

cornuta  hybrids      .... 

cornuta  lutea 

cucullata 

odorata        

odorata  semperflorens  . 

pedata 

tricolor 

Violet 


GROUP 

35-A-b,  35-A-c,  35-B-a,  45-A-b  . 

34 

32-F 


34-E 
34-A 
34-C 
34-D 


22-C-b-2 


Bird's  Foot      . 
Canadian   . 
Common    . 
Dog-tooth  .     . 
Horned . 
Scented      .     . 
Yellow  Horned 
Virginia  Creeper . 


Vitex  agnus-castus 

incisa    . 
Vitis  (in  variety) 

capensis 

coignetiae    . 

Cut-leaved .     . 


34-B 

15-C,  29-H,  31-A,  31-K-b,  43-1,  45-1 

28-B,  31-C-b   . 

31-C-b  .      .      . 

29-A,  29-1,  31-B-a,  31-D,  31-J,  45-A-a. 

31-B-b  . 

31-F      .     .      . 

31-B-d  .      .     . 

28-B 

31-B-a  . 

37-A-c 

29-F 

29-A,  29-1,  31-J,  32-A,  32-E      .      .      . 

15-C,  29-H,  31-A,  31-K-b,  37-A-c,  39, 
43-1,45-1 

29-F      . 

28-B,  31-C-b    .      .     . 

28-B      .      .     . 

31-C-b 

31-B-b,  31-F    . 

31-B-a 

31-B-d 

20-D-a,  22-B.  24-B-c,  25-C,  26-A-c, 
29-E-c,  34-C,  34-D,  39, 43-C-a,  44-B-b, 
44-C-b,  45-A-b 

16-C,  19-D,  19-H,  40-B,  45-H-b      .      . 

42-A-b 

20-D-a,  24-B-c,  25-C        .      .      .      .      . 

43-C-a 

29-E-c 

25-C,  29-E-c,  34-D,  34-E      .     .     .      . 


PAGE 

265,  320 

258,  illus.  350 

242 

549 

261,  illus.  334 

260 

260 

261 

175 

104 

260,  illus.  335,  345,  367 

140,  210,  222,  233.  310,  330 

198,  228 

228 

204,  210,  222,  229,  233,  319 

223 

230 

224 

198 

222 

277 

208 

204,  210,  233,  240,  242 

140,  210,  222,   233,  277,  285, 

310,  330 
208 

298,  228 
198 
228 

223,230 
222 
224 

165,  173,   182,   187,  190,  207, 
260,  261,  285,  302.  314,  319 

146,  156,  159.  290,  329 
297 

166,  182,  187 
303 

207 

187,  207,  261 


Wake  Robin 

Large-flowered      .... 

White 

Wallflower 

Hybrid 

Wall  Gardens 

Books  on 

Walnut     .      .  ' 

Black 

False 

Japanese 

Wandering  Jew 

Washington  (see  Oregon) 
Washingtonia  robusta 

Water  Aram 

Water  Gardens,  Books  on  . 
Water  Leaf 

Appendaged    

Water-lily 

Hybrid       

White 

Yellow 

Water-plantain 

Water  Poppy 

Water-side  planting       .      .     . 

Perennials  for       .... 

Shrubs  for 

Wayfaring  Tree 

Weedy  Plants 

Weigela 

Hybrid 

Pink 

Rose-coloured       .... 

Variegated 

Western  Sweet-scented  Shrub  . 
White  Cup 


28-B,  29-H,  36-B,  40-A 
31-B-b,  31-C-b,  36-B 

29-C 

32-E,  37-A-c    .      .      . 

24-E 

15    . 


39  .  .  .  . 
38-C-a,  40-C-a 
45-H-a  .  .  . 
45-H-a  .  .  . 
43-G 


43-B-b 
31-L-b 


29-C 

29-C 

43-1. 

31-L-a 

31-L-a 

31-L-a 

31-L-b 

43-1 


31-D 

25-B 

13-A-c 

31-E 

17 

13-A-b,  19-C,  19-1,  42-A-a,  46-C-a 

13-A-c 

13-A-c,  19-E-b,  23-B       ... 

14-B.  27 

45-F-a 

35-B-b 


198,  209,  271,  289 

223,  228,  271 

205 

242,  276 

184 

136,  illus.  143 

347 

285 

281,  290 

328 

328 

308 

302 

324 

347 

205 

205 

310,  illus.  318 

234 

234 

234 

234 

309 

illus.  318.  319 

234 

187 

130 

369 

149 

129.  155,  159,  296,  336 

129 

129,  157,  177 

135,  193 

325 

266 


White  Flowers 


NAME 


439 

GROUP 


Witch  Hazel 

PACK 


White  Flowers 

Perennials  with     ....        31-B 222 

Shrubs  with 19-G.  43-F-a 158,305 

White  Fringe 13-B-c,  14-B,  17,  19-B,  19-G-a,  20-B,  131,   135,   149.   155,   158,   162, 

22-A,  42- A-a,  43-F-a.  45-H-b.      .      .  173,296,306,329 

Whitlow  Grass,  Aizoon-like      .        15-C,  24-E 140,  184 

Wild  Gardens illus.  302,  303 

Bulbs  for 36-B 270 

Maintenance  of 95 

Perennials  for        ....        31-C 227 

Undergrowth  plantings  for   .        28-B 194 

Wild  Hyacinth    .      .  .      .        36-B 270 

Willow 10-C.  11-A,  12-C,  23-A,  24-A-a,  30-A,  117.   119,   125,   177,  180,  212. 

39,  44-A-b 285,  313.  illus.  94 

Black 38-C-b 281 

Dwarf  Gray 24-B-b 181 

Flowering 45-H-a,  45-H-b.  45-K-b 328,  329,  332 

Goat 19-A,  19-F-a,  41 154,  159,  293 

Golden-barked      ....        21, 26-B-a 170,  191 

Hybrid  Yellow      ....        14-A-a,  21 134.  170 

Laurel-leaved 16-D-a,  26-B-a 147,  191 

Pussy 19-F-a 158 

Rosemary 25-B 187 

Shining 26-A-a 189 

Virginian 13-B-a,  18-B,  24-A-a,  26-B-c.  37-A-a,  130,  151.  180,  191,  296,  326 

45-F-c 

Weeping 17    .  149 

White 21,  26-A-a 170,  189 

Wisconsin  Weeping    .     .      .        14-A-a 134 

Yellow 25-A 186 

Windbreaks 12 122,  illus.  110 

List  of  plants  for       ...        12-C 125 

Windflower,  Canadian  .     .      .        15-C.  28-B,  31-B-b,  31-C-a,  40-A    .      .  139,  197,  222,  227,  289 

Japanese 31-A.31-B-J,  31-B-k.  31-F,  31-I,31-K-a,  221, 226, 230. 232, 233, 289,  illus. 

40-B  .  

Snowdrop 31-B-b 222 

Window    boxes    and    hanging 

baskets 35 262.  illus.  350 

Hanging  baskets  ....        35-B 265 

Upright    habit    and    good 

flowers 35-B-b 266 

Upright    habit    and    good 

foliage 35-B-c 266 

Vine-like  habit  ....        35-B-a 265 

Window  boxes      ....        35-A 264 

East  exposure    ....        35-A-b 264 

North  exposure.     .      .      .        35-A-c 265 

South  or  west  exposure     .        35-A-a 264 

Winter 

Colour  of  twigs  in ....        21 168,  illus.  246 

Fruits  persistent  in    ...        20-C 163 

Winter  Protection  and  Mulch- 
ing        100 

Articles  on 349 

Bulbs,  Winter  protection  of          103 

General  considerations 106 

Lawns,  Mulching  of 106 

Perennials,  Winter  protection 
of  (see  also  "Mainten- 
ance") .  . 102 

Reasons  for  winter  protection 100 

Rhododendrons,  Winter  pro- 

tecti9n  of 104 

Roses,  Winter  protection  of 104 

Sources  of  winter  injury  and 

remedy 101 

Trees  and    shrubs,    Winter 

protection  of 105,  illus.  62 

Vines,  Winter  protection  of 104 

Winterberry 13-B-c,   20-B,   20-C,   20-D-b,    24-A-a,  131,  163,  166,  180,  190,  196 

26-A-c,  28-A 

Wintergreen 15-A,    20-D-a,    24-A-a,    29-B,    29-C.  138,  165.  180,  204.  205.  253 

33-E-b 

Winterkilling 101 

Wisconsin,  Plants,  for 312 

Wisteria 34- A,  34-C,  39 260,  261,  285,  illus.  350 

Chinese 24-C-c,  46-G 183, 339 

Japanese 46-G 339 

multijuga 46-G 339 

sinensis 24-C-c,  46-G 183, 339 

Witch  Hazel  .  .        13-B-c,  19-D,  22-C-a,  24-B-b,  24-C-b,  131,   156,   174,   181,   182,   193, 

27,  28-A,  30-B,  39.  42-A-a      .      .     .  196,  212,  285,  296 

Japanese          19-A,  19-F-a 154,  158 


Withe-rod 


440 


Zygadenus 


NAME 


GROUP 


PAGE 


Withe-rod 13-A-b,  19-C,  26-A-c 129,  156,  190 

Large 24-A-b 181 

Wolfberry 25-B 187 

Wolf  s-milk,  Yellow       .     .     .  24-E 184 

Woman's  Tongue  Tree  .     .     .  43-B-b  .     .     .     ,. 301 

Woodruff 31-C-b 228 

Sweet 29-A,  29-F,  37-A-c,  37-B-b  ....  204,208,276.277 

Woodland  Planting  ....  28 194 

Woodsia  obtusa 29-D-a 206 

Woodwardia  virgimca     .      .      .  29-D-b 206 

Wormwood 42-B-b,  45-1 297, 330 

Beach 24-E 184 

Siberian 44-B-a 313 

Woundwort,  Woolly      .     .     .  24-E 184 

Xanthoceras   .  .  42-B-a 297 

sorbifolia 19-C 156 

Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia    .      .      .  13-A-a,  18-B,  24-A-b,  29-E-a,  29-H       .  129,  151,  181,  207,  210 

Xylorrhiza  parryt      ....  38-A 279 

Yarrow,  Oriental      ....  24-E 184 

Yellow  flowers 

Perennials  with     ....  31-B 222,  illus.  292,  310 

Shrubs  with 19-F.  43-F-c 157,306 

Yellow-root 13-A-a,  18-B,  24-A-b,  29-E-a,  29-H      .  129,  151,  181,  207,  210 

Yellow-wood 14-A-a,  19-C.  19-G-b,  22-C-a,  42-B-b,  133,  155,  158,  173,  297,  328 

45-H-a    .      .     . 

Yew 40-B.  42  E.  44-G,  45-E 290,  298,  317,  323,  illus.  78 

Columnar  Stem-fruited   .     .  45-E 322 

Clustered  Japanese    .      .      .  9-B 113 

Dwarf  Japanese    ....  9-E 114 

English 45-D.  45-G,  46-H-a 322,  327,  339 

False 9-C 113 

Fortune's 45-D,  45-H-a 322,  328 

Ground 9-A,  9-D,  15-A,  24-A-b,  27.  29-C,  29-H,  112,   113,   139,   180,   193,  205, 

40-C-a 209,290 

Irish 16-D-b-l,  46-H-a 147,  339 

Japanese 9-A,  15-A,  16-B-a,  45-D       .     .     .     .112,  139,  145, 322 

Large-fruited 45-D 322 

Short-leaved  Japanese     .     .  9-A,  9-B,  18-A 112,  113,  151 

Spreading  English      .      .      .  9-A,  9-B,  9-E,  15-A,  18-A     ....  112,  113,  114,  139,  151 

Western 46-H-a 339 

Ylang-Ylang 43-B-b 302 

False 43-F-c 306 

Yucca  (in  variety)    ....  24-E,  39,  42-B-b 184,  285,  297 

filamentosa 18-A,    29-B,    29-G,    31-B-f.    33-E-b,  151,  205,  209,  225,  253,  277, 

37-A-c,  43-1,  45-A-b,  45-B-a,  45-F-b  310,  320,  321,  325 

ftaccida 18-A,  45-A-b 151,  320 

glauca 45-F-b 325 

gloriosa 45-F-b 325 

Zanthoxvlum  amertcanum    .      .  27,  28-A,  29-E-a 193,  197,  207 

Zebrina  pendula 43-G 308 

Zenobia 33-E-b 253 

Zenobia 45-F-a 324 

puherulenta 33-E-b 253 

speciosa 45-F-a 324 

Zinnia 32-A,  32-H-a,  43-1 240,  246,  310 

elegons 32-A,  32-H-a,  43-1 240,  246,  310 

elegans  robusta 32-H-b 246 

Tall 32-H-b 246 

Zones  for  Plant  ing  and  Seeding  Plate  II 6 

Zoysia  matrelca 43-G 308 

tenuifolia 43-G 308 

Zygadenus  intermedius  .     .     .  38-A 279 


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